Chainsaw Sharpening Machine Installation

Do-it-yourself chainsaw sharpening machine: theory, practice, and illustrative examples. We tell in detail how to make a homemade device. In addition to the instructions, photos ands.

Chainsaw Sharpening Machine Installation

Making a machine for sharpening chains of chainsaws with your own hands is no more difficult than assembling a home-made grinder or a tape sawmill. However, such homemade products are less popular. This is probably due to their narrow specialization, as well as the presence of many alternative options using fairly simple devices that allow you to sharpen the chain with the same quality and almost the same time. Most often, home-made machines for sharpening saw chains are designed by those who live “on the earth”, far from cities, and often use a chainsaw for both firewood and home construction.

The device for sharpening saw chains

The sharpening machine is designed for alternately sharpening the teeth of chains of electric and chainsaws using a rotating abrasive wheel. In this case, the linear and angular dimensions of the cutting surfaces of all teeth should be absolutely identical. If the sharpening is uneven, then when sawing there is an additional load on the chain, vibration appears, and the tire of the chainsaw can lead away. Therefore, the working mechanisms and structural elements of the machine must withstand the specified parameters of the sharpening chain with high accuracy and stability.

Some theoretical information

The main geometric characteristics of the cutting tooth chain:

  • Cutting edge angle (A);
  • Sharpening angle (B);
  • Profile of the front surface (C).

On machines for saw chains, the sharpening angle is set by turning the chain locking device to a predetermined angle (for most it is 30º). On factory machines, a graduated scale is used for this. Homemade ones are usually exhibited by a protractor, a template, or simply by a new chain. The angle of the cutting edge is determined by the inclination of the abrasive disc. For this, all machines have a grinding head mounted on a swivel joint. For factory products, this angle is set in degrees on a scale. On self-made machines, a fairly simple method is used: they adjust the inclination of the grinding wheel over the tooth with normal geometry, and then fix the head with a screw clamp.

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Chainsaw Sharpening Machine Installation

An important point when creating a home-made machine for sharpening chains is the choice of the diameter of the grinding wheel. It must correspond to the speed of rotation of the electric motor, since the linear speed of the abrasive depends on this. If it is significantly exceeded, it is possible to heat up and release the tooth steel in a few seconds, and if the values ​​are too low, the sharpening speed will noticeably slow down.

For sharpening the chains, engine power is sufficient within 80 ÷ 100 watts. Many factory products of reputable manufacturers (for example, Oregon and Sadko) have 85 W motors at 5000 ÷ 6000 rpm. Most often, the diameter of the grinding wheel for such machines is 100 or 104 mm, which corresponds to a linear speed of 26-30 m / s.

Homemade machines often use electric motors from old washing machines with a power of 180 W and a rotation speed of 3000 rpm. In this case, circles for sharpening chains with a diameter of 145 mm are suitable.

Design and main components

  • Supporting bed;
  • Rotary table;
  • Chain guide;
  • Tiltable grinding head;
  • Articulation of the bed and head.
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In home-made machines, the frame is made of a thick strip or metal profile, often using for this section of the corner or channel found in scrap metal. A variety of devices with an axis and a screw lock act as rotary tables. As a rule, they do not have any scale, and the sharpening angle is set once on a new chain.

Setting the angle of the grinding wheel is usually done not on a scale (which, as a rule, is not), but on the actual angle of the cutting tooth of the chain. To do this, the abrasive wheel is brought to the edge of the tooth, carefully selecting the slope so that the edge of the circle fits snugly against the edge of the disk. After that, fix the head with a locking screw and set the sharpening depth limiter, which is a regular screw with a thrust plate.

Many home masters do not use such restrictions, although working without them requires a greater concentration of attention.

Engines, handles, rear disk casings and return springs of grinding heads for home-made machines are the most diverse, because they are selected from improvised parts and then adapt to the design of the machine. Some craftsmen do not use handles at all, tilting the head directly behind the engine housing.

DIY stationary machine manufacturing

For example, in the below, the original design of the return spring and the placement of the hinge directly on the horizontal part of the bed attracts attention. In this design, the chain is not very convenient to move, and starting the engine “from hand” does not hold water. This machine is a typical example of a grinding device, completely assembled from improvised materials.

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The author of the next does not comment on him at all, but writes on the forum that this is the third version of his home-made machine (the first two were unsuccessful) and that he was assembled entirely from scrap metal (water pipes and a corner). He uses the engine with a power of 500 watts with a rotational speed of 2700 rpm.

The following presents the most “factory” version of a homemade machine for sharpening saw chains. Everything is regulated here, as in factory products, the tire for the chain is very convenient, and the design itself looks quite professional. Even the handles are equipped with large round knobs.

The main drawback of all these fully functional home-made devices is the complete or partial non-compliance by their authors with safety rules. This mainly refers to the absence of a protective casing on the outside of the grinding wheel. But this is not a reinforced circle for an angle grinder, but rather a fragile corundum oxide product with ceramic binders.

On all machines of this type, grinding itself takes only a few seconds. And most of the time is spent manually moving the chain to the next tooth.

And are there machines with fast and fixed chain movement, for example, from a lever? Indeed, for this it is quite possible to use a driven chain saw sprocket. If anyone has encountered such decisions, please share information about this in the comments to this article.