Chainsaw STIHL 180 how to install
Chain problems
The chain for the “STIHL 180” chainsaw is installed with a pitch of 3/8 “. It is mounted on a special tire. At the same time, a divider is used to tension it. At the bottom of the structure there is a catcher for the chain. To change it, you will first need to disconnect the holder. A new chain for the “STIHL 180” chainsaw can be purchased only in specialized workshops. After removing the retainer, it remains to disconnect the catcher. Then you can twist the bar. After the tension is released, it will be possible to remove the chain. Install it from the side of the sprocket.
Nozzle
The fuel injector is mounted in the carburetor body in such a way that it is a connecting link between the distribution chamber and the cavity in which the throttle valve is installed. Simultaneously with the fuel, air is supplied to the nozzle and an air mixture is formed. The nozzle has a check valve that blocks the flow of air in the reverse sequence, that is, from the throttle chamber to the distribution chamber.
When a piston needs to be replaced
There can be many reasons why the piston needs to be replaced, as well as a completely piston one, but they can all be divided into natural ones and those arising from improper operation. Natural, this is the wear resulting from the long-term use of the STIHL 180 chainsaw. There are much more artificial ones, for example:
- overheating of the engine and the appearance of thermal seizures;
- ingress of a foreign body into the cylinder and the appearance of mechanical scoring;
- breakage of the piston ring as a result of exceeding the maximum engine speed;
- breakage of the piston skirt due to overspeed;
- the use of low-quality fuel, as a result of which the piston group of the chainsaw wears out from the side of the intake channel in the cylinder;
- operation of a STIHL chainsaw with a dirty fuel filter, as a result of which the percentage of oil in the fuel mixture is reduced;
It is necessary to diagnose the CPG if the STIHL 180 ms has suddenly lost power or does not start, while the starter of the tool does not turn. If the starter cranks, but the saw does not start, while there is a spark and the fuel enters the cylinder properly, it is necessary to measure the compression in the engine.
If there is a suspicion of problems with the CPG, it is advisable to contact a service center authorized by the manufacturer, since only there they can accurately diagnose the malfunction without full analysis and, if necessary, carry out a high-quality repair.
9.5. 11 atm. it is considered a normal indicator at which the STIHL chainsaw starts up properly and delivers maximum power, if the compression is lower, there is a possibility that there are scuffs on the cylinder-piston group, or its wear is quite large. In any case, with reduced compression, for further diagnostics, it is necessary to completely disassemble the saw.
It is possible to determine the presence of seizures on the piston, as well as a broken piston ring, if you remove the muffler and conduct a visual inspection of the visible part of the piston, while the rings can be checked for elasticity by pressing them with a small screwdriver. There will be slight movement on the working rings, a defective or jammed piston ring will not move.
Fuel pump
A fuel pump is installed directly in the carburetor body, which operates under the action of an air pulse from the crankcase of the chainsaw, which is transmitted through special channels. A diaphragm is installed in the pump, it is she who is responsible for pumping fuel under the action of an impulse. A gasket is installed between the diaphragm and the body, which is responsible for the tightness of the fuel pump.
Why the STIHL chainsaw won’t start after replacing the piston
If the saw does not start after replacing the piston saw, it is necessary to check the fuel supply to the chamber, as well as to diagnose the ignition system. Very often, when installing the control lever on the chainsaw, the craftsmen forget to connect the wires coming from the ignition coil, as a result of which the spark disappears and the saw does not start.
Also, the problem may lie in a pinched fuel supply hose or if it is not connected at all. Of course, there can be many reasons, but it is worth remembering that if all the work on replacing the piston is carried out correctly, the tool should start without any problems and work normally.
STIHL 180 carburetor device
So, the STIHL ms 180 carburetor is developed and produced by a STIHL subsidiary called Zama. Original carburetors, on their body have a company logo that guarantees product quality.
Replacing the piston on a STIHL 180 chainsaw: when to change and how
The main malfunctions of the STIHL ms 180 chainsaw are associated with the piston group. Consider the main reasons why the piston needs to be replaced. Let’s give a description of the piston and the algorithm for its replacement.
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Replacing the connecting rod mechanism
If the starter with the drum is in order, but the “STIHL 180” chainsaw does not start, the malfunctions and repairs of the connecting rod mechanism must be disassembled very carefully. It is quite difficult to solve the problem on your own, but if you follow the instructions, you can do a lot. The user is able to directly inspect the connecting rod mechanism by removing the rear cover of the saw. First of all, you need to disconnect the protective screen. Next, you should tackle the starter, which is attached near the carburetor.
Pump design, lubrication systems and principle of operation
The oil pump drive consists of two parts, it is a plastic worm gear and a wire lever that transfers the force from the drum sprocket to the worm gear.
One of the main malfunctions of the saw oil system is a defective thread on the plastic gear of the oil drive, therefore, whenever possible, it is necessary to control its wear and the quality of the thread.
The lever is rigidly attached to the gear and they are supplied as one piece. The tip of the wire arm has a characteristic curvature that is designed for better grip on the drive sprocket drum. The drum has a special slot for installing the drive.
The STIHL 180 oil pump is completely made of metal and has a non-collapsible design. The pump housing has an oil inlet and a groove-channel through which oil from the oil line enters the pump directly. The mechanism is installed in the body of the STIHL 180 chainsaw.
At the moment of increasing engine speed, the sprocket drum begins to rotate the worm gear by the wire lever, and it, in turn, causes the oil pump plunger to rotate, as a result of which the oil begins to pump through the oil channels to the chainsaw tire.
In the operation of the system, the oil line of the chainsaw is also directly involved, at the end of which there is an oil receiver. The oil receiver is additionally a filter. On the second side of the oil hose, a rubber expansion is made, with the help of which the hose is installed in the body of the STIHL 180 chainsaw immediately behind the oil pump.
All about the STIHL 180 oil pump
The STIHL MC 180 chainsaw uses a mechanical oil pump as an oil supply mechanism for chain lubrication. Remarkably, the STIHL 180 oil pump is completely made of metal parts and is practical and highly reliable. Let’s take a closer look at how the oil supply system of the STIHL 180 chainsaw is organized.
How to remove the pump
The oil pump is installed on the right side of the bottom of the housing, in the same place the oil line from the chainsaw tank is connected to it. To remove the pump, you will first need to free the saw from the handle, for this the rear handle of the unit is unscrewed and the throttle control rod is disconnected. At the next stage, you need to remove the plugs of the shock absorbers of the handle and, using a powerful slotted screwdriver, squeeze them out of their seats on the handle.
After the handle is removed, the body of the chainsaw is turned upside down. The hose coming from the oil tank to the pump will be visible immediately. It must be removed from the seat.
The pump itself is removed with an M5 screw and a wide washer. The screw length should be approximately 45-50 mm. A washer is put on the screw and it is screwed into the pump (the inside of the pump is threaded). Further, as the screw is screwed in, the stop from the washer will force the oil pump to rise along the thread. Thus, the pump is removed from its seat. Before starting work, we recommend that you read the article on how to disassemble the STIHL 180.
For a better understanding of the pump removal process, you can watch the video below. In the video, the SC master shows in detail how to remove the oil pump from a chainsaw, and also describes the main malfunctions of the supply system.
The STIHL 180 oil pump is a very high-quality and reliable part, therefore it is necessary to change it only as a last resort, when all other elements of the system have already been checked.
After the pump is removed, it must be cleaned and blown out. As a rule, the main breakdown of an oil pump is its blockage. By removing it, the pump can be reinstalled.
Replacing the pump is only required if it is not possible to remove the blockage.
Malfunctions of the pump and the system as a whole
As you know, there is nothing eternal in this world and over time everything has to be repaired. So the oil system STIHL ms 180 is no exception, and has its own specific malfunctions. Let’s consider them in more detail.
Signs of a malfunctioning lubrication system are as follows:
- the chainsaw chain is completely dry and does not shine;
- oil does not leave the oil tank;
- the chain stretches quickly and this happens all the time;
- the saw bar is pulled to the side during sawing;
- the tire heats up and in the area of the leading sprocket, paint melting is observed.
All these signs directly or indirectly indicate problems in the chainsaw chain lubrication system.
The first thing to do after you suspect that chain oil is not being supplied is to check the supply. This can be done in two ways. The first is described in detail in the instructions for the tool and consists in the fact that you need to start the chainsaw, add gas as much as possible and direct it towards any obstacle.
With a working lubrication system, oil will fly off the tip of the tire and a strip of oily drops will appear on the surface towards which the tire is directed. If there are any irregularities in the system, the surface will remain clean.
The second way is to remove the tire from the chainsaw and start it. With an increase in the engine speed, at the place where the tire shank is installed, oil will flow from the oil channel, if this does not happen, it is necessary to look for the cause of the malfunction.
Diagnostics
Diagnostics should begin with an inspection and check of the oil receiver (filter) of the STIHL 180 saw. As a rule, if the filter is heavily soiled, the oil supply may stop.
In order to save money, you can try to clean a clogged filter by rinsing it thoroughly in gasoline.
Next, you need to remove the sprocket drum, and check the condition of the drive gear. The thread on it should be clearly defined, not licked and not have any other defects, also with the gear removed, it is necessary to check the wire lever. It must squeeze the gear tightly and not turn, otherwise, the gear is in place and does not transmit force to the pump, as a result of which the oil supply stops.
If all of the above methods to detect and eliminate malfunctions have not yielded results, extreme measures must be taken, i.e. dismantle the pump.
The reason for the appearance of oil leaks on the bottom of the chainsaw
The STIHL 180 chainsaw has a characteristic malfunction, which consists in insufficient sealing of the place where the oil hose is installed in the chainsaw body and the appearance of a leak in this place. To eliminate it, just remove the handle of the STIHL MS 180 saw, disconnect the hose itself, rinse and degrease the seat in the body and the hose end, then apply sealant and reinstall the hose. Such a simple operation will reliably eliminate the malfunction and the oil will stop leaking.
The oil pump of the STIHL 180 chainsaw is a reliable and unpretentious part, which is rarely the reason for the lack of chain lubrication. It is necessary to disassemble and change the pump only as a last resort, when there is confidence that the reason is 100% in it. You can do this with your own hands, since this operation is quite simple.
Malfunction of the chain lubrication system in the chainsaw
What are the breakdowns in the chain lubrication system:
In the first case, we first examine the channels through which the oil is supplied to the tire and clean them. Driving them is quite common.
If there is a significant leak of oil (a slight leak of oil is normal for all gasoline saws), check the tightness of the pipes and fittings of the oil pump. The tubing may fall off and even crack. The violation of the tightness of the pipes is eliminated by replacing them or sealing them with a sealing material.
As for oil pumps, different models of chainsaws can have different designs, and the drive is also carried out in different ways (as a rule, the drive is carried out by a drive sprocket or a special gear on the crankshaft). If there is a problem with the oil pump, then most often you will not have to completely replace this entire unit, it will be enough to replace its moving part (plunger), it is it that most often fails due to the ingress of a large amount of dirt and sawdust.
The most serious damage is a crack in the oil pump housing. In this case, you will have to completely replace it.
Chainsaw STIHL MS 180-14
The STIHL MS 180-14 chainsaw is the best-selling chainsaw in the world. This chainsaw is intended for use in the forest, in summer cottages or in municipal services for cutting and cutting trees, clearing and trimming trees, harvesting firewood, as well as for sawing boards, posts, etc. at home.
Replacing the piston STIHL 180
How to replace a piston group on a STIHL 180 chainsaw with your own hands
- Remove the cutting attachment.
- Remove the top cover.
- Remove the foam air filter element.
- Remove the carburetor. To do this, unscrew the two nuts of its fastening, disconnect the cables and hoses.
- Put the chainsaw on the left side and remove the upper handle from the shock absorbers by prying out the three rubber plugs on the right side of the chainsaw and unscrewing one screw on the left.
- Put the chainsaw on its right side and remove the gas and oil tank plugs by pulling out the plastic spacers of the plugs from the tank.
- Remove the left cover of the chainsaw and close the fuel and oil tanks back, reinstalling both plugs.
- Put the saw straight and stagger behind the magneto. if there is a shaft, it means that the seats in the body have sagged.
- Put the chainsaw on the left side and remove the sprocket. remove the retaining ring, washer and pull out the sprocket along with the clutch drum.
- Put the chainsaw straight and unscrew the spark plug, lower the piston to BDC (to the bottom dead center) and push a 5-6 mm rope into the plug hole to lock the piston (and therefore the crankshaft) to unscrew the clutch and magneto located at the ends of the crankshaft.
- Unscrew magneto. one center nut, right hand thread.
- Unscrew the clutch (it is self-tightening, so it is not easy to unscrew it, left-hand thread), then remove the clutch, washer, oil pump drive.
- Remove the two bolts and remove the muffler and gasket.
- With hammer blows through the barb, knock out the magneto from the crankshaft.
- Unscrew the two screws and remove the ignition coil, there is a special plate under the coil (you must also remove it and not lose it).
- Turn the chainsaw upside down and unscrew four screws in the lower part of the body (with guide bushings for a snug fit of the screws).
- Put the saw “on its feet” and, having tucked the ribs of the cylinder with a screwdriver, remove the cylinder (together with the crankshaft in the pallet).
- Remove the rubber tube after removing the ring. That’s it, move the body to the side.
- Take the cylinder. Unscrew the four pan screws and separate the pan with the crankshaft from the cylinder and pull the piston out of the cylinder.
- Remove the circlip from the crankshaft to remove the oil seals and bearings (it is better to replace all of them with new ones).
- Remove the rings from the piston and insert the ring into the cylinder, determine the degree of wear of the piston rings by the size of the gap in the piston ring lock. It is also necessary to assess the degree of wear of the piston and cylinder (damage by scuffs or scratches of the spray of the cylinder and piston skirt). Replacing the STIHL 180 piston is the replacement of the cylinder, piston, piston rings, piston pin with needle bearing and piston pin circlips.
- Assess the degree of carburetor wear (backlash in the axles and tightness of the air and throttle valves). It is better to replace the carburetor with a new one.
- Assess the wear of the drive sprocket.
- Wash the parts with a brush in a bathroom with diesel fuel.
- Bring new original or good STIHL 180 spare parts from alternative manufacturers (piston group. cylinder, piston, piston rings, piston pin, piston pin circlips, as well as new bearings and crankshaft oil seals).
- Install the piston (so that the arrow on the piston crown points to the exhaust port). To do this, you first need to install one retaining ring in the groove in the piston pin bore in the piston, then put the piston on the upper connecting rod head (arrow to the exhaust pipe), insert the piston pin and install the second retaining ring of the piston pin. Do not bend the mounting bar of the circlip, because if the attachment bar is bent when installing the circlip, then during operation this bar can break and damage the piston (damage so that you have to change the piston).
- Put on new bearings, new oil seals and install the thrust ring of the oil pump drive.
- Put the piston rings on the piston.
- Turn the new cylinder over, lubricate the inner (working) surface of the cylinder with engine oil.
- Degrease the mating surfaces of the cylinder, crankshaft and oil pan. Apply sealant.
- Insert the piston into the cylinder turned upside down (with sealant applied under the oil seals) so that the arrow on the piston bottom points to the exhaust window. No mandrels are needed to install the piston with rings in the cylinder, because the cylinder has a special chamfer and the piston, together with the rings, enters the cylinder by hand, only shaking the piston so that it enters the cylinder. When the piston enters the cylinder, place the crankshaft in the cylinder bed.
- Apply sealant to the entire mating surface of the pallet and install the pallet with a pin under the oil pump (at the corner of the pallet) towards the oil pump. Install and tighten the four pallet mounting bolts.
- Install the rubber pipe and its ring on the inlet window.
- Take the housing and install the assembled piston into it, making sure that the inlet pipe is correctly threaded into the hole (do not correct it with a sharp screwdriver).
- If the plastic body has sagged at the attachment points, then growers must be placed between the bushings and the heads of the fastening bolts to compensate for the shrinkage of the plastic.
- Install the muffler gasket and muffler, tighten and tighten the two muffler mounting bolts.
- Put the chainsaw on the left side, put on the oil pump drive, washer (with the TOP inscription upwards), screw on the clutch (left-hand thread).
- Place the chainsaw straight, install the magneto, screw on the central nut. Turning the crankshaft behind the magneto, set the piston to BDC, push the rope into the spark plug hole to lock the crankshaft and tighten the clutch and magneto (and then remove the rope from the cylinder). Note: you cannot start a chainsaw without an asterisk, because the clutch will fly apart and you will have to look for its parts.
- Put the chainsaw on its left side, check the needle bearing and put an asterisk. with a slot on the clutch drum, get onto the oil pump drive.
- Put the chainsaw on its right side, put on the previously removed plate, put on the ignition coil, attach and tighten the fastening bolts, bring the magnet on the magneto to the ignition coil and set the gap between the ignition coil and the magneto magnet 0.2 mm (the gap is checked either with a feeler gauge or with a regular thickness) business card). Tighten the ignition coil.
- Lay and connect all wires.
- Install starter. Check if it turns the crankshaft.
- Install the plate near the carburetor.
- If the carburetor does not change to a new one, then the old carburetor must be disassembled (remove both caps and the membrane, unscrew the jet and the adjusting screw), rinse everything with a carburetor washing agent and blow it out. Collect.
- Replace fuel filter.
- Install the carburetor on the chainsaw (ring first). Connect the gas and air damper rods (check if the air damper closes completely), connect the cables and hoses.
- Install the chainsaw handle, put three plugs.
- Install the air filter housing. Collect everything. Start. Run in.
Actions in the event of a malfunction in various parts of the unit
Unpleasant phenomena such as loss of power, lack of connection, and no-load support are common.
The reasons for this behavior of the tool are the malfunctions of the chainsaw carburetor. This is expressed in contamination with dust particles, sawdust. Such a breakdown can be eliminated without problems on its own.
Carburetor cleaning is carried out using:
- a small amount of gasoline;
- Phillips screwdriver
- brushes;
- heads, size 8.
The sequence of steps when performing repairs:
- To start repairing the carburetor, they begin with cleaning from dirt and dusty particles, small wood. A brush is used for this. When the surface is completely free of debris residues, the repairer removes the cover, after which the filter.
- The air collector is released after unscrewing the fasteners of the air filter. The user now gains access to the accelerator and traction control. The accelerator lever is removed as soon as the throttle is lowered by pressing down with a finger.
- The carburetor moves out of the seat after the choke lever is removed and closed. Then the wire is removed and pulled towards itself to stop the engine. A photograph is taken of the plastic lever, which is the place of attachment of the wire.
- It is lifted from the left. As a result, the carburetor is released, which makes it possible to pull it out and clean it. For these purposes, it is convenient to use a compressor. In its absence, the parts are washed in pure gasoline.
The process of assembling the saw carburetor is carried out in the reverse order. If, after this process, smoke appears from the muffler and the saw engine does not start well, then you need to make sure that there is a spring located under the lever needle.
The spring shuts off the fuel supply. In its absence, a spontaneous “overflow” of fuel into the spark plug occurs. It is important to make sure that the spring is installed in its place, and make sure that the spark plug is working.
If the candle is flooded with gasoline, then it should be dried. To do this, the part is unscrewed, the excess fuel that has got inside is drained through the existing hole. The candle dries for more than half an hour. Then it is installed in place, and the chainsaw is brought into working condition.
Insufficient contact between the high-voltage wire and the end of the plug can also be one of the causes of tool breakage. Repair of parts of a STIHL chainsaw can be done by replacing problem parts.
For example, if a candle fails, it is replaced with a reliable one. Chains, sprockets, tires are subject to rapid wear. They solve anti-vibration problems in the chainsaw device, so they are replaced urgently. It is recommended to keep such spare parts in stock.
Removing the flywheel
The flywheel of the STIHL 180 chainsaw is tightened with great effort, so you need a head with a metal knob to remove it. The nut holding the flywheel is unscrewed by the head by 13.
To block the crankshaft from turning, you need to unscrew the spark plug and install the piston stopper through the spark plug hole, if it is not there, you can use the old cord from the starter, with knots tied to it and immersed in the cylinder through the spark plug hole.
It is strictly forbidden to keep the flywheel from turning by installing a power screwdriver and other tools between its ribs and the body, with this method of blocking from turning, the flywheel blades are not able to withstand the load and break off.
After the piston is locked in the cylinder, you can unscrew the flywheel nut. The thread in the nut is ordinary, so you need to turn it to the left. Having loosened the nut, it is not necessary to remove it to the end, it is enough to unscrew it until its upper edge is equal to the tip of the shaft, after which a soft metal drift is installed on the nut and a sharp blow is made on it. Thus, the flywheel jumps off the shaft from a sharp impact and can be easily removed without the help of additional tools.
Removing and disassembling the engine
The engine is held in place by 4 screws installed on the bottom of the STIHL 180 chainsaw. To remove them, unscrew them, then carefully remove the engine from the seat and the rubber pipe of the carburetor.
To disassemble the engine, 4 crankcase screws are unscrewed, and it is removed, then you can remove the crankshaft complete with oil seals, bearings and piston rings.
Removing bearings and seals usually does not require additional tools, but if the bearings were pressed onto the shaft with force, then a special puller will be needed for dismantling.
To remove the piston from the connecting rod, you will need to remove the retaining ring from the seat using a thin screwdriver, then the piston pin is squeezed out from the opposite side, after which the piston is retracted to the side.
Dismantling the clutch and oil pump drive
Before disassembling the clutch, the drive sprocket must be removed. To do this, carefully remove the lock washer from the grooves on the shaft and remove the sprocket and needle bearing.
With a high head 19, you need to unscrew the clutch. The thread on it is left-handed, so it unscrews towards the bar, and not the back of the STIHL 180 saw.
Having unscrewed and removed the clutch, you need to immediately remove the reflective plate and the oil pump drive, this is easy to do, because they are put on the shaft without any fastening.
Removing the starter
At the next stage, the upper case cover is removed and the 4 starter mounting screws are loosened, after which it is necessary to remove the oil tank and fuel barrel covers. The starter is removed quite simply and there should be no problems.
After removing the starter, the opened inner cavity of the chainsaw must be cleaned, since usually there is a large amount of compressed small sawdust on the body under the starter.
Special attention to the oil pump
The oil supply can be interrupted for various reasons. The most common malfunction of the oil pump. This can be verified by the condition of the chain lubrication.
Unboxing and assembling Chainsaw STIHL MS 180 in 2 minutes. Bob The Tool Man
If the supply of oil to the chain is interrupted, it becomes dry or excessively wet. these are signs of poor operation of the oil pump.
To eliminate the problem, the oil supply hose is inspected. The junction of the hose with the oil pump and the tank is inspected for tightness.
We service the oil pump of the chainsaw. video
Such problems appear as a result of mechanical damage to parts of the oil system. To get to the problem area, this unit is disassembled.
If the repairman is convinced that the hose is damaged, then it should be replaced. However, depending on the degree of damage, it is possible to seal with special compounds.
Before sealing, the surface is washed and degreased. By repairing STIHL ms 180 on their own, the consumer has the opportunity to dramatically save.
The most common types of chainsaw malfunctions
The STIHL 180 chainsaw is operated in accordance with the instructions supplied with the tool. The user turns on the starting system after being convinced of the presence of oil, gasoline, and ascertaining the correct tension of the chain.
Working with the tool begins after it is securely held in your hands. If a tool failure is detected, it is necessary to determine what caused the STIHL chainsaw malfunction.
The reasons that caused the malfunction of the tool can be:
- the appearance of a leak in the oil system;
- formed breaks in the crankcase cord;
- carburetor malfunctions;
- air entering the crankcase through the oil seals;
- worn condition of the worm gear in the oil pump;
- no spark appears at the ignition cross section;
- deterioration of the driving sprocket;
- violation of the integrity of the eyelet under the control lever.
To carry out an independent repair of a broken STIHL chainsaw, tools are used that are in stock with each consumer.
- screwdrivers;
- socket and wrenches;
- hexagons;
- vacuum gauge used to determine defects in oil seals, carburetor, crankcase;
- air compressor used for purging and cleaning components and assemblies;
- T-key STIHL Torx 27;
- stopper limiting the stroke of the crankshaft;
- bearing puller.
Checking and subsequent replacement of defective membranes
STIHL 180 chainsaw carburetor membrane repair kit
Common malfunctions of the STIHL 180 carburetor
Malfunctions that can be solved by repairing the carburetor: It is worth noting that diagnostics may not always correctly indicate the problem. There are times when, due to different reasons, the same “symptom” occurs. And sometimes diagnostics can give false information, as a result of which you will not be able to correctly eliminate the cause of the breakdown. Pay due attention to diagnostics, but do not overestimate its importance.
The tool does not hold idle revolutions, and sometimes the revolutions “walk”. Most likely the idle jet is clogged. It is urgent to clean it, otherwise the saw will not be able to perform its functions. Another possible cause is a malfunction of the fuel system.
Sometimes this problem is solved by unclogging the valve that restricts the fuel tank. This valve regulates the output of gasoline and the passage of air. Do not forget to adjust the carburetor by changing the amount of air that is supplied to it. details about this operation can be found in the instructions included with the brand new chainsaw.
The carburetor of the STIHL chainsaw, without disassembling, can only be adjusted for the number of revolutions produced at idle. It is impossible to increase or decrease the fuel supply in various modes. Manufacturers have limited access to this adjustment by removing special screws. If faults are found in this system, it is possible, with experience, to increase the gap between the needle valve and the wall. The saw does not start. The solution is the same as in the previous paragraph.
The tool began to consume more fuel, while its power was significantly reduced. Gasoline consumption and power are subjective concepts. To accurately determine these indicators, you can not do without visiting special firms specializing in this tool.
Well, if these two indicators are visible “on the face”, then follow these steps:
Check for a dull chain. A dull chain has a lower efficiency, and therefore the saw consumes more fuel.
Examine the fuel tank. Perhaps it has formed small mechanical damage, through which gasoline leaves imperceptibly.
Clean the cooling system and exhaust system.
The unit stalls immediately after operation or warming up. Experts call it hot.
- Lack of air entering the carburetor. Replace inlet and outlet valves.
- Breakdown of the cooling system (overheating). It is possible that foreign objects have entered the pipes with cold air, which will need to be removed.
- Chainsaw stalls when position is changed. This only applies to tilting to the side, in the vertical state the saw functions normally. This problem even applies to serviceable chainsaws, because during the development the designers made a small mistake. The STIHL 180 fuel system has a special design so that the fuel cannot escape from the tank on its side. Sometimes the problem lies in the clogging of the fuel pump.
Disassembly procedure, as well as tuning the carburetor of the STIHL 180 chainsaw: In order to carry out a high-quality repair of the carburetor, you will need to remove it. This is not difficult to do, but you need to be extremely careful. First, we will prepare the workplace: install the lighting, lay out all the necessary tools. Understand that the carburetor is the main saw unit where the fuel and gasoline flows intersect. For stable operation, they must be cleaned of foreign debris.
Therefore, before the main work, you need to do the following:
- Remove and clean the muffler.
- Make sure that there are no problems with the supply and combustion of fuel.
- Check the serviceability of the air and cooling filters.
Chainsaw performance STIHL 180
| Model | MS180 |
| Engine displacement (ml) | 31.8 |
| Max power (hp) | 2.0 |
| Max speed (rpm) | 14000 |
| Weight (without tire, chain, oil and fuel) (kg) | 3.9 |
| Fuel tank volume (ml) | 250.0 |
| Oil tank volume (ml) | 145.0 |
The main stages of work (removal of the carburetor)
The best option would be to watch a training video. Fortunately, there are dozens of them on the Internet. There you will be told everything in detail and professionally. As the saying goes: “It is better to see once than hear a hundred times” (in our case. to read). Schematically, this process can be written as follows: remove the protective cover, remove the rods and, finally, unscrew the unit to work with it.
Carburetor repair and cleaning without spare parts
There are situations in life in which it is simply vital to repair the saw, but the necessary components are not at hand. For such cases, there is the following method: take out the carburetor, remove the membranes, and then put the rest in acetone and let it soak. Acetone will remove debris that is blocking the passage of various fluids. This method will not hit your. but it is not reliable. Such repairs will not ensure the long operation of the chainsaw, since the outdated membranes have not been replaced.
Repair and adjustment of the carburetor of the STIHL 180 chainsaw
The STIHL 180 is a German chainsaw designed for gardening, logging, site clearing and other woodworking. Many people love it for its compactness and ease of use. The tool combines seemingly opposite qualities. power and maneuverability. German designers have tried to create this sample, but the MS 180 STIHL also has disadvantages that users face in various operating modes. Like all mechanisms, it tends to fail. What to do in such cases and is it worth contacting the workshops?
Features of STIHL chainsaws
| Model | Working volume (cm 3) | Power (kW / hp) | Weight, kg) | Specific gravity (kW / kg) | Standard tire (cm) | Standard chain | Launch aids | Chain tensioner | engine’s type | |
| Petrol-powered saws for sawing wood and for maintenance of the land | ||||||||||
| MS 170 | 30.1 | 1.3 / 1.7 | 3.9 | 3.0 | 35 | 50. 3/8 ″ P.1.3 | In front | 2-stroke | ||
| MS 180 | 31.8 | 1.5 / 2.0 | 3.9 | 2.6 | 35 | 50-3 / 8 ″ P-1.3 | – | In front | 2 stroke | |
| MS 180 C-BE | 31.8 | 1.5 / 2.0 | 4.2 | 2.8 | 35 | 50-3 / 8 ″ P-1.3 | ErgoStart | Fast | 2-stroke | |
| MS 181 | 31.8 | 1.5 / 2.0 | 4.3 | 2.9 | 35 | 50-3 / 8 ″ P- 1.3 | – | Lateral | 2-MIX | |
| MS 181 C-BE | 31.8 | 1.5 / 2.0 | 4.6 | 3.1 | 35 | 50-3 / 8 ″ P- 1.3 | ErgoStart | Fast | 2-MIX | |
| MS 192 C-E | 30.1 | 1.3 / 1.8 | 3.3 | 2.5 | 35 | 50-3 / 8 ″ P-1.3 | ErgoStart | Lateral | 2 stroke | |
| MS 211 | 35.2 | 1.7 / 2.3 | 4.3 | 2.5 | 35 | 50-3 / 8 ″ P-1.3 | – | Lateral | 2-MIX | |
| MS 211 C-BE | 35.2 | 1.7 / 2.3 | 4.6 | 2.7 | 35 | 50-3 / 8 ″ P-1.3 | ErgoStart | Fast | 2-MIX | |
| MS 230 | 40.2 | 2.0 / 2.7 | 4.6 | 2,3 | 35 | 50-3 / 8 ″ P-1.3 | – | In front | 2 stroke | |
| MS 231 | 40.6 | 2.0 / 2.7 | 4.9 | 2.4 | 35 | 50-3 / 8 ″ P-1.3 | – | Lateral | 2-MIX | |
| MS 250 | 45.4 | 2.3 / 3.1 | 4.6 | 2.0 | 35 | 50-3 / 8 ″ P-1.3 | – | Lateral | 2 stroke | |
| MS 250 C-BE | 45.4 | 2.3 / 3.1 | 4.9 | 2.2 | 40 | 55-3 / 8 ″ P- 1.3 | ErgoStart | Fast | 2 stroke | |
| MS 251 | 45.6 | 2.2 / 3.0 | 4.9 | 2.2 | 35 | 50-3 / 8 ″ P- 1.3 | – | Lateral | 2-MIX | |
| MS 271 | 50.2 | 2.6 / 3.5 | 5.6 | 2.2 | 37 | 62-0.325 ″. 1.6 | – | Lateral | 2-MIX | |
| MS 291 | 55.5 | 2.8 / 3.8 | 5.6 | 2.0 | 40 | 67-0.325 ″. 1.6 | – | Lateral | 2-MIX | |
| MS 390 | 64.1 | 3.4 / 4.6 | 5.9 | 1.7 | 45 | 66-3 / 8 ″. 1.6 | – | Lateral | 2 stroke | |
| Petrol saws for forestry | ||||||||||
| MS 201 | 35.2 | 1.8 / 2.4 | 4.0 | 2.2 | 35 | 50-3 / 8 ″ P- 1.3 | – | Lateral | 2-MIX | |
| MS 241 C-M | 42.6 | 2.2 / 3.0 | 4.7 | 2.1 | 40 | 55-3 / 8 ″ P-1.3 | Decompressor | Lateral | 2-MIX M-Tronik | |
| MS 260 | 50.2 | 2.6 / 3.5 | 4.8 | 1.8 | 37 | 62-0.325 ″. 1.6 | Decompressor | Lateral | 2-stroke | |
| MS 261 | 50.2 | 2.8 / 3.8 | 5.2 | 1.9 | 37 | 62-0.325 ″. 1.6 | Decompressor | Lateral | 2-MIX | |
| MS 261-VW | 50.2 | 2.8 / 3.8 | 5.4 | 1.9 | 37 | 62-0.325 ″. 1.6 | Decompressor | Lateral | 2-MIX | |
| MS 361 | 59.0 | 3.4 / 4.6 | 5.6 | 1.6 | 40 | 60-3 / 8 ″.1.6 | Decompressor | Lateral | 2-stroke | |
| MS 362 | 59.0 | 3.4 / 4.6 | 5.9 | 1.7 | 40 | 60-3 / 8 ″.1.6 | Decompressor | Lateral | 2-MIX | |
| MS 362-VW | 59.0 | 3.4 / 4.6 | 6.0 | 1.8 | 40 | 60-3 / 8 ″.1.6 | Decompressor | Lateral | 2-MIX | |
| MS 440 | 70.7 | 4.0 / 5.4 | 6.3 | 1.6 | fifty | 72-3 / 8 ″. 1.6 | Decompressor | Lateral | 2-stroke | |
| MS 440-W | 70.7 | 4.0 / 5.4 | 6.5 | 1.6 | fifty | 72. 3/8 ″. 1.6 | Decompressor | Lateral | 2-stroke | |
| MS 441 | 70.7 | 4.2 / 5.7 | 6.6 | 1.6 | 45 | 66-3 / 8 ″.1.6 | Decompressor | Lateral | 2-MIX | |
| MS 441 C-M | 70.7 | 4.2 / 5.7 | 6.6 | 1.6 | 45 | 66-3 / 8 ″.1.6 | Decompressor | Lateral | 2-MIX M-Tronik | |
| MS 660 | 91.6 | 5.2 / 7.1 | 7.3 | 1.4 | fifty | 72-3 / 8 ″.1.6 | Decompressor | Lateral | 2-stroke | |
| MS 880 | 121.6 | 6.4 / 8.7 | 9.8 | 1.5 | 90 | 108-0.404 ″.1.6 | Decompressor | Lateral | 2 stroke | |
| Special saws | ||||||||||
| MS 150 TC-E | 23.6 | 1.0 / 1.3 | 2.6 | 2.6 | thirty | 64. 1/4 ″ P. 1.1 | ErgoStart | Lateral | 2-MIX | |
| MS 192 T | 30.1 | 1.3 / 1.8 | 3.1 | 2.4 | thirty | 44-3 / 8 ″ P-1.1 | – | Lateral | 2 stroke | |
| MS 201 T | 35.2 | 1.8 / 2.4 | 3.7 | 2.1 | 35 | 50-3 / 8 ″ P-1.3 | – | Lateral | 2-MIX | |
| MS 192 C-E Carving | 30.1 | 1.3 / 1.8 | 3.3 | 2.5 | thirty | 64- 1/4 ″ P- 1.3 | ErgoStart | Lateral | 2-stroke | |
| Electric saws | ||||||||||
| MSE 160 C-BQ | 1.6 | 4.1 | 35 | 50-3 / 8 ″ P-1.3 | Fast | |||||
| MSE 180 C-BQ | 1.8 | 4.2 | 40 | 55-3 / 8 ″ P-1.3 | Fast | |||||
| MSE 220 C-Q | 2.2 | 6.2 | 45 | 66. 3/8 ″. 1.6 | Lateral | |||||
Major errors and solutions
The device must be operated in accordance with the instructions supplied with it. Turn on the start button only after tensioning the chain, the fuel mixture and oil are checked. With the chain saw securely in your hands, you can get to work.
If the tool refuses to work, you must first determine the cause of the malfunction. Chainsaw repair equipment will return to its usual course: various screwdrivers, sockets and wrenches, hexagons.
Installing Throttle Bar STIHL 180
If the chainsaw won’t start
According to the experts, with this problem, first of all, you just need to open and close the lid on the gas tank. Then you need to vent the combustion chamber, and remove and dry the candles. These actions are enough for the tool to turn on and work. If the problem persists, the cause should be looked elsewhere.
Chainsaw engine intermittently
The cause of this malfunction may be a malfunction of the cylinder piston, which can be easily repaired with your own hands.
To remove the cylinder from the tank, it is necessary to unscrew the four bolts on its head. Then carefully check the piston, which should not be scuffed, scratched, or chipped. If so, the piston will need to be replaced.
The optimal pressure in the combustion chamber is provided by the piston and piston rings, which must fit snugly against the piston body. If the piston inserted into the cylinder during swinging rotates freely, it means that it is worn out.
Self-Heal Your Chill 180 Chainsaw Instruction
The Calm 180 chainsaw has proven itself in the construction market. This handheld unit has 1400W of power and 31cc engine power. see. The saw chain length is 350 mm, at idle speed it is more than 2 thousand revolutions. Its popularity among consumers is also due to the acceptable value of the tool. However, when using chainsaws, malfunctions sometimes occur. Tool repair is not cheap to maintain, so those who know at least a little technical issues will compensate for the damage with their own hands.
Oil leaks to lubricate the chain
Sooner or later, every tool owner will face this problem. The cause of this malfunction is a leak between the oil pump and the oil tank hose.
Replace the Chain on a Chainsaw // Stihl MS 180 Chain Install
It is necessary to fix this problem, practically disassemble the chainsaw completely.
- If the hose is damaged, it is best to replace it with a new one. You can try filling it with sealant after removing and rinsing.
- Oil may leak through a clogged or broken oil filter. This should be checked, cleaned or replaced.