Chainsaw Works Only On Choke Reason
A real man must be the master of the house!
Why does the chainsaw stall
Husqvarna 365 XP chainsaw. Doesn’t work without “suction”
Gray Poets 2012-06-16 18:07
“Made happy” here I’m the hint of the Chinese chainsaw industry, well, everything’s clear from the name. Has anyone communicated with them? How to treat ? The nozzle seemed to be blown, the pump shakes, but at least the feathers. Even on a hot one, just because of vibration the suction will open a little. It stalls.
Ah, there is still between “exit” carburetor and rubber “knee” is there a ring, with a rim on the inside diameter. Where should this rim be inserted, in the carburetor or in the elastic band?
And another question. There are 2 shlyingas coming to the carba. One from the gas tank, the other from somewhere deep. This one “from the depth” why do what?
Passerby 2012-06-18 11:03 a.M.
On the first.In my opinion, the reasons may be the following:
1. Is the mixture of maslabenzine normal? Maslitsa not poured?
2. Stalls with open suction. Poor mixture. Carb is misaligned. Turn the mixture quality screw to the left. And it’s better to give it to the servicemen.
In the second. The second hose. Crankcase ventilation so that there is no pressure.
Father Michael 06/18/2012 11:24
Check the cleanliness of the air filter
Three lines 06/18/2012 11:25
The second hose for the operation of the membrane of the gasoline pump.
Wash the crankshaft oil seals trend. See if they are raw.
Carrier 06-18-2012 12: 41quote: Originally posted by Gray Poets:
Has anyone talked to them?
Once familiar to Gaster adjusted. Quote: Originally posted by Gray Potz:
How to treat ?
It’s easier to throw it away. Not one normal service is taken for repair.
See the connection of the carba with the cylinder for air leaks and the connection with the air filter. You can try to enrich the mixture with a quality screw. If you saw it with a dozen cubes, then most likely the motor has died. The CPG is shitty there.Gray Poets 06/18/2012 16:18
V.G.Life 2012-06-18 20:57
I somehow don’t want to disassemble my Chinese chainsaw. Has anyone taken apart? What kind of oil pump for chain lubrication stands? Aperture, gears? Why is he afraid of low-quality oil, such as from a sunflower?
Ursvamp 2012-06-18 21:26
If this is a model of a saw that gypsies sell near supermarkets “type of saw”. It’s better to throw it away right away.
Pavel_a 06-18-2012 21: 31quote: Originally posted by Passer-by:
In the second. The second hose. Crankcase ventilation so that there is no pressure.
Hardly on a two-stroke. The second hose is probably the choke button.
Most likely, air is sucking in somewhere. See the gasket between the carburettor and the cylinder, the crankshaft cuffs and the tightness of the engine housing connection. Start by laying the carburetor.
Lelik76 2012-06-19 21:54
So to speak in continuation of the topic.
A neighbor in the country bought a sruk saw, as he was told “German pro-va”.
When filling gasoline, it flowed along the seam of the tank.
The saw started up, but the pressure on the throttle is zero.
So I want to say:”People, do not buy this shit from your hands!”
I attach a photo of a fake under Stihl.
Carrier 2012-06-19 22:13
I recognize brother Kolya. (C))))
Pavel_a 2012-06-19 22:32
There is not enough money for a return ticket; buy a good saw.
Husqvarna used to be steamed, now Stihl has appeared.
Although some praise. They say their money is worth (2-3 thousand).
Ziminvlvl 2012-06-27 22:34
Judging by the symptoms, air leaks. Or between the carb and the cylinder, and (as noted here) through the crankshaft oil seals. Or even from a leaky pad.
Gray Poets 2012-07-21 17:20
It’s a shitty decision to fill in 95th fresh gasoline (it was 92nd and old before), now it turns and doesn’t even stall at full throttle, but here’s a new misfortune. How should she set the idle ones correctly?
Why the chainsaw stalls, the main reasons.
There are 2 screws at the bottom with springs that go into the carburetor and one slightly above that the throttle lever rests against. How much to twist and in what order?
Pavel_a 2012-07-21 17:57
2 screws with springs. One screw of small gas, marked with the letter L, the second screw of full gas, marked with the letter H. If there is no marking, then usually the screw that is closer to the engine is L. The third screw is the idle speed adjustment.
It is necessary to start and swallow the saw, to make sure that it does not stall (if possible). Using a small throttle screw, achieve maximum stability and high revolutions. Using the speed control screw, set the normal idle speed. Start sawing something thick, press the throttle lever to the end and use the throttle screw to reach maximum power.
Something like this.
A chainsaw has long been not a luxury, but a necessary tool for anyone who has at least some suburban area. With its help, you can carry out gardening, harvesting firewood, finalizing lumber and much more. There are a lot of chainsaw models on sale, differing in both power and overall quality of performance. You can verify this here. E-katalog.Ru.
However, any technique can be moody, and chainsaws are no exception. Consider the most common problems.
The tool stalls immediately after starting
One possible reason is lack of fuel. Check the amount of fuel in the gas tank, and add if necessary. In this case, you should strictly follow the recommendations of the instructions, especially regarding the quality of gasoline and oil. We often ignore such subtleties, refueling the saw as necessary, which causes accelerated engine wear and leads to failures.
Also, the saw may stall due to deterioration of the contact of the spark plug with the high-voltage wire. This can be caused by mechanical shear or carbon deposits. Sometimes it is recommended to periodically replace the candle with a new one, even if the old one did not show any problems in operation.
A chainsaw can work normally, being in a straight horizontal position, but stalls with lateral inclinations. As a rule, this is also associated with a shortage of fuel: the fuel pipe rises when tilted, and if there is little fuel, it rises above the fuel level.
Chainsaw idles
Firstly, it is recommended to check the muffler, as its pollution can lead to deterioration of the exhaust gas output, because of which the engine stops.
If cleaning the muffler did not solve the problem, and the engine of your saw is carbureted, then you can try to configure it. Most engine models have coarse and fine adjustment bolts (H and L, respectively).
Chainsaw adjustment, do-it-yourself repair of common faults
By increasing their speed the engine can eliminate the problem. Keep in mind that adjusting the carburetor is a rather delicate process that requires the use of a tachometer.
Engine does not withstand loads
If the chainsaw stops just in the middle of a particularly thick log, then the problem can be caused by malfunctions in the fuel supply system or problems with the air filter. The engine simply does not receive enough combustible mixture to work with a heavy load, and stops.
The usual solutions to these problems are replacing the fuel in strict accordance with the recommendations in the instructions (we already talked about this) and cleaning (replacing) the air filter.
Chainsaw stalls with increasing speed
The reasons for this phenomenon are similar to the previous ones: either the problem is in the fuel system or in the air filter. Try to disconnect the fuel hose from the carburetor. If gasoline does not flow well (but you know for sure that there is fuel in the tank), then the reason is in the gasoline filter. You can, at the same time, check the fuel pump. Fuel should not leak through it. If this happens, then it is advisable to replace the pump.
Tools, equipment and machinery
Recommendations for selection. Operation, repair and maintenance. Faults and solutions.
Stihl MC 250 chainsaw malfunctions
The problem is the following. Saw Stihl MS 250 years six in operation. Oil is not supplied to lubricate the chain (it does not depend on air temperature), to be precise, it does not go towards the tire, but at the same time during operation it intensively flows into the hole under the muffler. He cleaned everything, wiped it, but everything remained the same. Tell me, what else can I do?
It happens sometimes. There, under the muffler, initially the plastic plug should stand. For some reason, it is sometimes squeezed out. You can do it, here’s what you need: Socket wrench “at 8”. Remove the muffler. Long tap M6. Lengths of about 100 mm, or standard with an extension cord. Screw M6, which is not a pity and the corresponding nut. Hacksaw for metal. Tisochki. Here is the technology: 1. Remove the silencer. 2. We remove oil streaks. 3. A small piece of cloth is lowered with a slight interference into the hole so that it can then be removed. Do not score tightly! 4. We cut a 5-6 thread thread in the hole with a M6 tap, clean the chips and remove the cloth from the hole with a hook. 5. Cut a piece of thread length 5-6 (or 5-6 millimeters) from the M6 screw, cut a slot for a screwdriver on this piece. The cork is ready. (The aforementioned nut in order to tighten the screw through it and not damage the thread). 6. Screw the plug into the hole. Here you need to carefully. It is impossible to screw deeply, otherwise it will block the outlet. You can insert a wire of millimeter 2 diameter into it from the side of the tire mounting and screw the cork up totouching the wire. 7. Put the muffler and check the oil supply.
I bought a Stihl MC 250 chainsaw. A week later I found smudges of black oil in the crankcase attachment, runs out from under the screw, it is on the right, closer to the handle. There are suspicions that the crankcase may not be sealed.
Husqvarna 365 XP chainsaw. Doesn’t work without “suction”
Do not worry. Outwardly leaks do not occur. Neither streaks, nor similar manifestations. Only by indirect signs. At first a slight increase in power and an increase in maximum revolutions. Then, as leaks increase, problems with idle start, then. Problems with starting.
The saw starts and stalls. How to fix?
You need to first remove the fuel filter from the hose in the tank and try to work a little without it. It doesn’t give anything. Check the impulse hose. It is not visible well, but you can see it. Using a small flashlight, look into the gap between the top of the fuel tank and the bottom of the carburetor box. The hose should not hang loose. It should be worn on a nipple cast at the same time with the carburetor bodyboxes. Sometimes it happens. When the engine claps, it breaks it. If the hose is in place, then more difficult. Shake the right end of the crankshaft. If there is at least a slight backlash, you need to do the diagnosis. The pan fixing screws may be loosened, the oil seal (more often the right one) may be damaged. I can also advise you to rearrange the carburetor with a working saw and try to see if this is the case.
I have a Stihl MS 250 chainsaw, I bought 1.5 years ago, for harvesting firewood. The resource is clear, no more than 4 hours a day, and should you rest during the work? If so, how much? The saw works fall-winter, about 40 m / h per year.
The rest there is simple. You cannot refuel a hot saw, which means that after running out of the fuel tank, you need to take a break to cool down the chainsaw. The break time is not indicated anywhere.
The tool works fine, but it does not start when restarted (i.E. Warm). Need to change the candle or wait for it to cool?
There are two options. Either nothing to burn or nothing to set fire to. That is, if the filter is clean, then for some reason the suction is not removed in the carburetor during a warm start (and after a cold start it is removed) and the saw does not have enough air or the spark disappears when the candles are heated. Perhaps re-enrichment of the mixture. Try screw L not tighten much. There are 3 screws on the carburetor. T. Idle, L. Low speed, H. High speed. On the right side of the air filter cover there are holes marked opposite these screws. (screw H is better not to twist).
The Stihl MC 250 chainsaw, has been working for 2 years, but has recently begun to notice. If it has stood for a long time (more than 3 months), then it does not hold when idling or at other times the chain twists at high idle speeds. I’ll work out a tank of gas and everything returns to normal. Where is the problem?
If you do not produce gas from a carburetor, then perhaps this is the reason. Gasoline evaporates the oil remains, the membranes in the carburetor stick. In addition, the fuel mixture deteriorates over time, loses its properties. Even in a canister, the mixture is not recommended to be stored for longer than 2-3 weeks.
I bought this tool. He arrived at the country and started it, tried to cut it. Everything is fine. Well, I move the universal lever to the stop position, but it does not stall! In general, he threw off the lid, closed the contact. Can you enlighten me on a device to stop the engine? I saw only one contact on the spring, and the second is stuck in the universal lever itself and there is nothing else! There seems to be some kind of record, but what kind of record?
At the end of the wire, a normal type contact “mother”. It is inserted into the corresponding socket on the lever and the contact spring must touch it when the lever is in position “off”. There are no intermediate parts. The spring should be on top. It has not so much a contact function as a fixing shaft in different positions.
I’m using a Stihl MS 250 chainsaw. I haven’t started the saw yet, I have no experience, so a few questions. 1. I was surprised by the operation of the brake, or rather, with what sound it turns on, such a sharp, unpleasant click, as much as the whole saw resonates, is this normal? 2. The leading asterisk is all black and red, it should be like all silver-metallic. What does it mean? 3. There was no tire in the box; it was given separately. Was this a reason to beware?
The brake is released with a rather loud click and a shock is felt. There is a powerful spring, there is something to click. The asterisk is not clear, you need to look. The tire and the chain. Yes, separately. The main thing is that both of them should be Shtilevskoye.
After the saw warms up, idle disappears, does it stall? If the gas does not discharge, then you can work, as the gas released, it stalls. At the same time it starts up all the time normally, but on the hot one, you have to press the gas to start it, otherwise you can’t start it at idle, tell me what is the problem? I wanted to clarify about idle (spinning chain). I know that in the saw two screws can adjust idle speed. One LA, which the user can twist, the second L. It seems to be desirable to twist on the service, so as not to harm the saw. According to the instructions, the user is allowed to twist these two screws, and only if this does not help, you should contact the service. Should I go into carburetor settings to optimize idle speed? If so, what is the algorithm of actions?
There are three adjusting screws. “N” it’s not worth turning at all, and it’s better to do the main idle adjustment “LA”. He’s just a throttle stop screw. Screw “L” connected with idling, but more “is responsible” for acceleration of the engine and transition mode, so it is better not to touch it, if possible. Generally, the 250s were different “buggy” idling. Depending on the year of manufacture and the carburetor model installed, of course, but sometimes it was not possible to achieve normal idle at all. Or too high and twists the chain, or stalls. And sometimes “swam”. You will adjust, it seems, normal and suddenly. Once, and accelerates. Or vice versa. It falls. In general, it does not always succeed. So reduce idle “LA”what happens is what happens.
I work with a MS 250 saw, but after intensive use the saw set became unusable, i.E. Both chains are stretched (although in principle they can still be cut if shortened), the bar (40) at the end has burrs outward, and the drive sprocket does not last long left to live. The question arose when, after stretching a chain with a hand on a tire, the chain seemed to stretch, then weaken, as if clinging to something. In general, after using 40, I decided to bet on 35 and the chain is not PM3 but PS (super). Is it worth it?
This is normal during heavy work. The chain stretched. The step increased. The asterisk has worn out. The step has decreased. One plus the other gives a big discrepancy between the steps of the tire and the sprocket, hence the run-up and jerking. I won’t say this to the bus, you have to watch. Cut the burrs, see how the new chain lies on the nose of the tire. If there is a gap between the sheet and the chain links, it is good and the tire will still work. If the chain “creeping along the sheets of the tire in the area of the nose, the tire conditionally developed a resource. In general, they (and not only Shtil) have the following norm: one bus should work with four chains, and two chains with one sprocket. But this is not completely applicable, but only for clean fresh wood. There, just a couple of chains are knocked off when the drive sprocket wears out. On construction work, it can work 3, or even 4 chains on one sprocket (we blunt more often, we sharpen, respectively, too) And even on disassembling structures and even more so. 4-5 chains on one sprocket is quite realistic. “super” Chains. Yes, I recommend it for fresh wood. Saw faster noticeably.
There is a gap at the tip of the tire between the tire web and the chain. That is, as I understand it, you can shorten both chains. But in my opinion it is necessary to shorten a couple of links, and this, as I understand it, is also not good? Even with the replacement of the leading sprocket, I wanted to clarify. How does the crown behave?
I would advise you to shorten it by no more than one leading link. And if the shortened chain is no longer stretched, it is better to throw it away. The step will be too different and nothing good. The cup itself works out with about three to four asterisks. Sometimes more. Only the bearing must be smeared, otherwise on the second. Third sprocket it will break the landing. And change the stars in time, and sometimes cups come across, almost cut in half in the center of the sleeve on which the asterisk sits.
About the brake, please tell me. Correctly turn it on before launch. In practice, how critical and necessary is this? And yet. At the beginning of the topic it was written about leaking saw oil during storage of the chainsaw. I also came across this and they told me that to avoid this, you just need to open and close the filler neck so that the air gets there. This is true?
The chain brake is larger for safety reasons, since when starting from the middle position of the lever, the chain immediately rotates. But if you be careful. There is no need for it at startup. I never use it, although the chainsaw is in my hands every day. And the oil on a working saw simply does not flow from anywhere, except from the tire and the recesses in the body and cover. Those few grams will not create problems. And the lid of the oil tank can be opened and closed. It will not be worse.
I have a chainsaw. In the third year of life, at the most unexpected moment, she refused to work. And it looked like this. In the presence of a normal fuel mixture, a working candle, the presence of a spark at first refuses to start, after some attempts it starts, it sharply picks up speed (as if the fuel in the tank is running out) and stalls, after which it does not start for a long time (normal. This is from the first, Well, from the second, well, in winter from the third jerk of the starter with a suction).After a long analysis, by repeatedly disassembling, inspecting and collecting found the reason. A “dog” rummaged through the fuel line. The reason is commonplace, storage in a raw unheated shed, so the rubber fuel line cracked. Outwardly, small cracks, the fuel does not flow, and it did not attach any importance, but after removing and thoroughly feeling the excesses and blowing it found a hole. I didn’t take the photo, but I show the place on the diagram.
10 malfunctions of a chainsaw that you can fix yourself
Inside, I inserted a shank from a syringe with a volume of 5 cubes and grew further with a plastic hose. A year of work showed that this was the place of the malfunction leading to setting, i.E. Factory, a sharp set of revolutions and a sharp end to the work.
If your unit behaves in a similar way (starts, gains momentum and stalls), we are looking for a place for air leakage, it will not necessarily be the hose itself, it is also worth checking the joints of the hose and the carburetor fitting. If the carburetor is collapsible (in particular, the float chamber is separated from the rest), we pay attention to the gasket, when the air is sucked in, the picture is similar, i.E. It starts up more smoothly and picks up speed, after which it stops, and quite abruptly.
Dear visitor! You are in the archive of the old forum site mastergrad.com
Brakes a chainsaw
Recently bought 180 Stihl. Drank a couple of times (the day before the second time the fuel mixture was poured) and an unpleasant thing got out. Periodically the chain began to slow down. As if the brake turns on, a couple of times the gas is rebuilt and again normal.
Maybe someone had something like that?
Is the chain not overtightened by chance?
The chain must be tensioned so that raising the saw by the chain, holding in the middle of the tire, when the saw body is torn off the surface, the tooth of the chain completely comes out of the groove of the tire and rises 1-2 mm above it.
If the chain is normal, lubricate the clutch.
Can the tape brake be deformed? Or grip “fools around”. Look, the space around the asterisk cup with sawdust, etc. Is not clogged. Maybe the chain is pulled?
There was no such break-in. In the instructions, if I’m not mistaken, it was written that 2-3 tanks should be sawed in a gentle mode, do not give a heavy load, do not saw for a long time, etc. That is, nothing about idle running without a chain and a bus.
I did not give a large load. I sawed 4 times in total.
When sawing 3 times after the saw factory, I remove the brake, give gas. And the chain barely spins. I feel that it is slowing down. Several times gazanul. Like the chain spun everything is normal.
Yesterday I sawed a couple of logs and at the time of sawing (3-4 cuts) the saw began to slow down, up to a stop. He pulled out a saw and played it for about 15. 20 seconds, it felt like the chain was slowing down something jerky. Then it all went away.
After the first slowdown, I also thought that the chain was overtightened. Checked, weakened. Easily extends with two fingers, the gap at separation is 1-2 mm.
Nothing is clogged with sawdust.
Is it possible to see the clutch and the belt brake yourself / is it difficult?
1-2 mm is not enough, 4-5 mm is normal. It’s easy to look at the tape brake, remove the tire cover, look for what you are looking for around the sprocket cup. Steel tape. When the safety lever is pressed, (saw off), the sprocket should rotate freely without touching anything. If sawdust and other forest products are removed between the brake and drum, remove. If the sprocket clearly touches something for some reason. Remove it, there either the circlip (the half-washer inserted into the groove on the spindle is removed with a small screwdriver with a straight slot or awl) or the screw with the left thread (turns clockwise), look to see if clutch. The springs in this design are not a hindrance, and the need should not be removed. By the way, check the sprocket on the end of the tire, too, should spin without effort. Check if the chain moves easily along the bus, in the off state, pull the chain several times with your hand, there should be no difficulties either.
As I understand it, the mechanism of work is this:
The clutch has a rigid connection with the engine (the higher the engine speed, the faster it spins). The clutch cams move apart under the action of centrifugal force (the higher the speed, the stronger) and, at a certain speed, clamp the sprocket drum from the inside, and the chain is already spinning from the sprocket.
When the brake is pressed, the steel strip clamps and stops the sprocket drum from the outside. The chain stops, the engine continues to work (already under load), the clutch continues to spin and grinds the sprocket drum from the inside.
When the revolutions are reset, the clutch cams are pulled by the springs and the clutch spins into idle without touching the sprocket drum.
Everything is okay. Not a lot of dirt. Nothing prevents anything. Everything is moving, spinning. The springs in place, the cams of the clutch mechanism with a screwdriver to move.
Cleared everything, blew. What is all the same the problem did not understand.
At the time of slipping, it felt like the engine was working under load, that is, the clutch worked, but something still slowed down the chain, or the star.
Maybe all the same the chain was pulled?
That is, it gave gas. The clutch is enough for the sprocket drum, but cannot crank normally. The load on the dvigun. The revolutions are falling. The adhesion force is weaker. The clutch begins to grind.
On the weekend I’ll try to loosen the chain. I’ll have a drink.
No, I pulled the chain very tightly and I have not seen this.
Still interesting: the cams and the drum in the oil constantly, but due to the centrifugal force, the clutch still suffices as it should.
The sprocket must rotate very freely.
I think you have a problem with the fuel supply or with the carburetor.
Another option: Tighten the candle and there should be a gasket, maybe due to a gap if the washer the compression curve is insufficient. There is a metal washer on the candle (for me), maybe it’s worth putting a paranitic one, it will be pressed more tightly. Well, you can try to replace the candle.
I had some problems almost on a new saw, replaced a candle. And everything went as it should.
2alkzn: Do you have this problem periodically or is it constantly present? Those. Sawing, sawing normally, and then failure or every time you give gas.
And I have Shindaiwa, half a year has passed. The flight is normal.
Ps: I didn’t break the saw!
Well, cars also sometimes do not run in, at first, too, the flight is normal, then the current resource is half.
And what is laziness to do? 40 minutes in total, or burn 600 grams of gasoline in waste?
The first time (after purchase) sawed. Everything is OK.
I deduced that the new chain needs to be pulled up, like pulling while the chain can be pulled with 2 fingers.
Pulled up, apparently even too much. Began to saw a second time. Started, gas. The chain does not spin. A couple of times the gas. Spun. Began to cut. Something is not right. It’s hard. Loosened the chain. Everything became OK.
The third time. Started, gazazal. Everything is OK. Began to saw the log. On the 3rd cut, it suddenly started to slow down (the blade did not hold), pulled it out of the saw blade. Blew it out. The chain was untwisted. Began to saw again. Saw stalled.
Looked. The fuel ran out. Mixed, filled, started. I give the gas begins to slow down.
That is, I give full throttle, the chain turns, suddenly a small jerk, the chain slows down the dvigun under load (the sound changes immediately). For a couple of seconds everything is normal again, then again a small jerk. It slows down. For a minute or two, it was so awkward and everything became normal.
Then sawed for about 15 minutes. Everything was normal.
Somewhere, something wedges, definitely. Hedgehog is very annoying, drag it to the workshop or show it to a person who knows, it is difficult to give an intended assessment by correspondence. Still, look at the tire, maybe the chain in it wedges. If the front sprocket has been cut, the chain may bind in the guide.
Do you need to run in? Here is an interview with the director of the representative of calm in the Russian Federation
http://www.Arrows.ru/part/articles/article9.html. They say that you don’t need to run in. “. Stihl chainsaws are not run-in, they are already rebuilt at the factory. The only requirement is not to give full throttle without load. After using 5 tanks of fuel, you can adjust the carburetor using two jets, acting strictly according to the instructions.”
Of course, I don’t feel sorry for 600 grams of gasoline, it’s just stated in the instructions for the car how it breaks in, how much time, at what speed you can go, etc.
In the instructions for the chainsaw about the run-in it is written that when sawing a couple of the first tanks do not give maximum load, work in a gentle mode.
So maybe it is not necessary at idle then to drive it?
2ksv_: it’s like I shot it and it turns. It turns easily, smoothly, does not jam.
2sergey And: thank you. I’ll look again.
The most important thing I realized that the problem with a probability of 90% in the asterisk-chain-bus node, i.E. Consumables.
I’ll have a drink on the weekend. If there are troubles again. I will think about the repair. Under guarantees not run hunting.
I’ll also try and run in))). Maybe I will be happy)))
Here we will soon agree to the point that running the tool is not needed.
Let this moment be described indistinctly in the instructions, let the absence
A detailed explanation of the break-in will remain on the conscience of a lazy or mediocre
Seller, but any new mechanism, whether it’s a chainsaw or even a new chain
And one of the break-in methods was proposed by Husqvarna in 2002 and has
Great positive result checked by time.
And its essence is that the tool must work out one refueling at idle
With a periodic 5-10 minutes progazovka that would blow the exhaust tract, and the following
10 HOURS to work in “Sparing” mode with frequent change of revolutions, without increased load.
A CORRECT seller will definitely check the maximum speed and, if necessary, adjust
Enriched mixture carb before selling the tool and will invite you to the final
Adjustment after break-in. Of course free of charge.
Believe my experience, this simple procedure saves a lot of money and nerves.