Circular saw guide bar with your own hands

Guide bar for circular saw with your own hands

Anyone who has worked with a circular saw knows how difficult it is to get it straight. With all efforts to guide the tool accurately along the markings, it still tends to move sideways. The result is material deterioration and time wasting.

Some masters adapt as follows: fasten a pair of clamps to the bar along the ruler. However, this method is inconvenient with a manual circular saw. the screw clamps catch on the tool. There are several other reasons for using a guide rail:

• Using a rule, it is necessary to adjust its position all the time. It is set with a small indentation from the cutting line, only then the disk will pass exactly along the line. This method is good for single cuts. If you have to make a lot of precise cuts, it’s a painful process;
• The proprietary circular saw guide is designed so that its edge is exactly flush with the cutting line. All the craftsman has to do is to align the two bars and work;
• Good-quality bars are additionally glued with a soft tape to prevent chips in the material, e.g. fiberboard or laminate;
• It is inconvenient to saw and watch the position of the rule at the same time. A little pressure or undercutting and the material is ruined. All you need to do when working with the guide bar is to move the saw forward.

There are many kinds of guide bars on the market: universal or specialized for a certain model or manufacturer. The price of universal devices is generally higher than that of specialised ones. Therefore, many home craftsmen make rails with their own hands.

Making a guide rail with your own hands

The main task. it is to make their own hands geometrically accurate product, which is not easy. You want to make a convenient and reliable device, spending a minimum of time.

A channel, an angle rod, a rectangular tube or even a laminate can be suitable as a base. Wooden and pressed rails have a serious drawback. they are sensitive to moisture.

Option 1

Guide rail made of laminate. the easiest and most accessible material.

• Let’s cut two pieces of laminate of equal length (for example, 50 cm).
• Mill one edge at a time.
• Use self-tapping screws to fasten the piece to the base that is also made of laminate.
• The width of the groove is checked with an A4 sheet of paper, with a thickness of about 0.11 mm: the paper is inserted into the device and screwed down.
• The guide is fixed to the circular saw bed by your own hands through the side stop mount. You can drill a special hole in the body, if you do not feel sorry and passed the warranty period.
• When working with the guide bar it should be maximally extended in front of the handheld circular saw. And the nose of the sole should be a few centimeters behind the guide. Now we take a laminate saw blade and saw off the edges of the rails on site, so that they are perfectly aligned with the marking;

Such a device slightly reduces the depth of penetration (about 1.5 cm), but it is very convenient and easy to do with their own hands.

Variant 2

Now let’s take a construction rule as a base for the bar. Suitable model with handles that move along the groove.

• Remove the handles, instead of them pick up softly fixed clamps with spring handles. There are models with a removable top part. they are just right. After removing it, the screw clamp is fixed to the ruler with the help of an adapter.
• The adapters have to be made by yourself from polypropylene on a milling machine. The end result should be “T”-shaped pieces that fit snugly into the slots for the handles.
• We make holes in the “leg” of the adapters and screw them down with screws.
• The guide is placed on a sheet of material with the notch facing down, and securely clamped with screws from below. There are no obstacles on top of the circular saw. There is only one limitation in the work. the length of the rule, so you need to take the longest one.

Variant 3

To get an accurate cut with the circular saw it is necessary to have one important condition: the edge of the tool base, which is in contact with the guide rail, must be perfectly flat.

Professional machines with molded soles have this feature by definition. What can not be said about the inexpensive stamped bases. Therefore, we offer another variant of the guide. the rail.

The tool will move along it, not resting against the guide rail. Also greatly reducing the effort required to push a hand saw.

For the rail we can use an aluminum U-shaped profile. Two pieces of different cross-section are needed. The smaller profile must be inserted into the bigger one without a gap, but it should move freely.

Now you can assemble with your own hands the guide rail:

• Take the plywood and use screws to attach the larger diameter guide. Grind the heads of screws and self-tapping screws to hide them flush.
• Firmly attach a strip of plywood 0 on both sides of the guide and also fasten it with screws. Instead of plywood, you can use particleboard.

Cut off unnecessary pieces to the width and the rail is ready for use.

Now you should prepare the hand saw:

• Insert the small profile into the rail and remove the height of the “feet” so that it fits flush.
• Clamp the cut profile to the saw bed parallel to the saw blade. To do this, use a pair of M4 thumbscrews. If the platform of the circular tool is high quality and flat, you can stick to its edge.
• We place the hand saw on the guide rail by inserting the profile into the guide rail, turn on the saw and saw off the extra strip to the width.
• Now for a perfect cut you need to put the lip of the guide rail on the marking and use clamps to secure the guide rail. The main feature of the design is the rail. When using such a guide bar, the saw moves smoothly, doesn’t wobble, feeds easily and cuts very accurately.

Making the stop for the circular saw

A parallel stop is a design designed to cut longitudinally the desired width of the workpiece.

Typically included with almost every handheld circular saw. Such an uncomplicated design can be very useful.

The factory stop has a disadvantage: for safety, it is set to a value for cuts less than 20-25 mm wide. This is done so that the stop does not interfere with the blade guard.

The problem is very easy to solve. just attach a block of wood to the parallel stop rail with self-tapping screws. Thus, the minimum cutting width is not reduced, but the possibilities increased.

Cross corner stop

As the name suggests, this stop is used for sawing boards at an angle of 90 °, and with the modification and other angles, the stop is also used for facing boards.

First of all mount the plywood sheet with thickness of 10 millimeters to the frame. In it make a cut under the circular saw disk, which is attached to the bottom, then mount the sheet guide bar to a height of 2 centimeters and a stop perpendicular to the guide, which is attached to the bottom of the sheet.

The excess is cut off, and the material to be worked is secured to the base with clamps (the extra distance that you will cut is selected individually for your model of saw).

Next, set a bar to the stop, it should be fixed at an angle of 45 ° to the guide bar, and cut off part of the sheet at the same angle. That way you get a modified stop for longitudinal and 45° angle cuts.

The angle of repositioning can be changed to whatever you need. Or you can produce a protractor for your circular saw and mount it on the base. It will be easy to make cuts at any angle, but it will not be easy to make it.

The outrigger guide bar for circular saws with your own hands

With many advantages, the previous design has a significant disadvantage. You must constantly control the side pressure of the body of the circular saw to the ruler. If the width of the workpiece to be cut is too wide, the arms may simply not be long enough.

The solution is to use a carriage on ball bearings. The design is not as budget-friendly (at least the bearings have to be purchased), but its features are more cost-effective. The principle of operation can be seen in the illustration:

From metal plates and an angle, the carriage is made. To adjust the width you can use the wing clamps in the sliding grooves. Complex shaped profiles can be purchased at specialised stores for aluminium structural materials. There are many variants, the main thing is to provide a stop with bearings on the top and side. For example. one of these options.

The profile must ensure that the C-shaped clamp is fixed inside the rail. It is possible to buy a ready to use construction from a matching pair of carriages and a guide rail.

It all depends on the budget of the event. The sole of a manual circular saw is firmly attached to the slide.

IMPORTANT! Uniform parallelism of the circular saw’s guidance along the profile is essential otherwise the cut will be of a jagged cut.

Such a rail, made by your own hands, allows you to cut a large area of workpieces. In this case, the movement of the saw is light and smooth, the feed can be carried out both by hand and by the guide rod.

The rail for a manual circular saw

These designs are well suited for leisurely cutting of individual surfaces. In the case where you need to quickly and accurately cut in large quantities of boards. the work will be done slowly. Then a rail jig is used.

• Two metal angles of the same profile and length;
• A flat base (plywood or chipboard at least 15 mm thick);
• Bolts and nuts of the same size, 4 sets.

At a distance slightly greater than the thickness of the workpiece, fasten the guide angles. The board must move freely under the rails, but at the same time the saw blade cannot be too high.

We use bolts as studs. It is important to keep the corners parallel and placed on the same plane. The photo clearly illustrates the work of the device:

For free sliding of the sole of the tool on the guides, you can glue fluoroplastic strips that reduce friction.

But it is more correct to install wheels. for example, ball bearings. Production is relatively time consuming, but the system is very effective and safe. If it is necessary to make saw cuts at an angle. it is enough to screw two screws into the base, in which the board will be supported.

Questions remain? See guide rail for your circular saw with your own hands.

Fixtures for the multi-tool

Beginning craftsmen doubt that it is possible to make a straight cut with a hand-held mechanical tool. This is true if you cut according to the markings, but you can make the job easier by using a purchased or homemade guide fixture,

Manual woodworking tools, especially of modern design, are sometimes amazed by the number of auxiliary devices that help in the performance of sawing material. The simplest auxiliary device is an ordinary stop on the base of the saw with an indicator of the line along which the cut will be made.

The most popular addition is a short rail with adjustable extension length. complicated constructions have a roller on such a guide, so that the saw’s movement is not hindered by contact with the edge of the material.

Sometimes they put indicators that show laser cutting lines and other fixtures that have the same imperfections. All of these mechanisms serve to inform you that the saw blade is out of line for the cut trimmer. All simple mechanisms indicate inaccurate sawing.

Why then have all these systems that do not allow the hobbyist to make a simple cut? Where is the error in this approach? All known woodworking machines for professional woodworking have a parallel clamping device for constant pressure on the material to be machined and a rigid locking system. Often this stop moves. For professional tools, there is an Interskol manual circular saw guide rail that can be applied to another overhead mechanism.

Then the tremor in the forearm muscles has no effect on the direction of the cut, because this is controlled by the rigid stop. Some will say that surgeons don’t use stops and know how to do complex and precise operations. Probably so, but their material is more susceptible to machining, and perfectly straight lines do not matter.

To cut down on the cost of purchasing a circular saw guide rail, you can make one yourself. With this self-tool the only thing you have to worry about while cutting is to hold the saw firmly against the stop and slowly move it forward. The materials and equipment needed for making it can be found in every workshop.

For example, for a panel of thick plywood, the width should be greater than the width of the saw base, by five centimeters. The length depends on the workpieces you have to cut. Optimal dimensions:

The support strip should be the same length as the length of the guide bar. The width should ensure a secure bond with the surface of the panel. at least 3 cm or even much wider. The height of the slat must be at least 12 mm. Optimal stop size: 100 cm x 3 cm x 1.5 cm.

One note when selecting the rail in the supermarket. it must have one thin side flat. How to check this? Place the rail on a flat table and check for any bulges or gaps. It is this flat surface of the rail that will provide a straight line for the trimmer cutting.

When all the materials are assembled, you can begin to make a parallel stop for the circular saw with your own hands. First you need to measure the distance between the saw and the edge of the panel towards its long side. To the obtained result add some 3 cm. This dimension will serve for the centerline 2 cm away from the edge.

Then measure the width of the base of the saw and draw a second line for the trimmer. This dimension is needed to highlight the area of the saw’s passage. Mark the space between the lines with a pencil so that there is no doubt that this area is off from work and is only for saw movement. When all dimensions are outlined, begin mounting the rail:

• Smear the rail with glue and place it along the second line designed for the stop.
• Use a clamp to hold it in place to assure a solid glue joint.
• Leave it for 12 hours to let the glue get full strength.

When everything is securely fastened, you need to calibrate the device by making the first cut. To do this, set the saw to the stop, trying to make so that the edge of the saw base is evenly pressed against the bar and with an even motion along the bar make the cut. It is this first cut along the stop guide that will calibrate the device for further work.

When the stop is ready, you can safely use it to get a quick cut. On the material to be cut, mark the line for the trimmer cut. Along this line lay the new rail so that the working edge lies on the line. the saw will cut the material exactly in this place.

Having carefully laid and made sure that there is no table top on the other side of the material to be cut, the saw is pressed closely against the stop and, moving along the guide, cut off the desired size of material. While sawing, you need to press the saw lightly against the device and against the surface of the stop. this will ensure a straight cut. Move it smoothly and evenly. The result will be an even line for the trimmer cut. When using a handheld circular saw attachment, two interesting facts are worth noting:

• First, the soft material will not crumble during cutting.
• Secondly, the guide provides additional protection against the jagged edge of the cut material due to hand shake and uneven saw movement.

In the carpenter’s home workshop, there will always be a place for a homemade trimmer saw from a manual circular saw. To make it, you need to have a homemade guide ruler and a carriage for a circular saw.

For making the ruler you will need several pieces of 12 mm plywood and a 10×20 mm metal profile. The length of the ruler. 1.5 meters. Using a 20 millimetre diameter cutter a slot is milled to fit the profile over the entire length of the unit. The profile is fixed with screws. The reinforcing rib is mounted parallel to the profile line at a distance of 12 centimeters.

Homemade universal slider

For all of the above guide rails a universal slider can be made to fit any machine. The slider consists of a metal profile and a carriage on bearings.

This design, consisting of homemade guides on bearings, is very convenient: simple to make, easy to work with, will fit any guide. The carriage has eight bearings: four thrust and the same number of side bearings to secure the carriage to the rail. A profile rail is used as a guide rail. Rail guides are particularly precise, so they are used in furniture making.

Guide rail for circular saw

The proprietary guide bar for the circular saw is almost as expensive as the saw itself. Nevertheless, the device is very important. Why? When it is used, is it possible to do without it, can it be replaced with something or can it be made by one’s own hand?? The circular saw guide has many advantages at work. This article describes these advantages, and also answers various related questions. Here we also look at making a guide bar with your own hands.

A person who has dealt with a circular saw knows how difficult it is to ensure an even cut. You try to hold the tool against the markings, but it tends to wiggle. If this happens, it turns out that time is wasted and the material is spoiled.

Some people get out of the situation by attaching a pair of clamps to the bar along the ruler. But with a manual circular saw, this method is inconvenient, because the clamps are catching the tool.

Other arguments for a guide bar:

• With the use of the rule all the time it is required to adjust it. The tool is set with a small indentation from the cutting line, and then the blade runs exactly along the line. This method is suitable for single pieces. When making many precise cuts is necessary, it takes a long time.
• The genuine bar is designed in such a way that its edge is exactly aligned with the sawing line. All that remains is to align the two strips and get to work.
• Good-quality rails are additionally glued with a soft tape that prevents the material from chipping, such as fiberboard or laminate.
• It is inconvenient to cut and watch the position of the rule at the same time. Pressing too hard or not pressing hard enough will damage the material. A circular saw with a guide rail only requires the saw to move forward.

Making at home

The main thing is to keep the geometry exactly right. The base can be:

A serious disadvantage of wooden and pressed guide bars is their sensitivity to moisture.

Option 1. Laminate tire.

• Using the ruler, cut two pieces of material of equal length.
• Mill one edge at a time.
• Fasten to the base (also made of laminate) with self-tapping screws.
• The width of the groove is checked by using an A4 sheet of paper with a thickness of about 0.11 mm: the paper is inserted into the device and screwed down.
• The guide rail is secured to the circular saw’s sole plate with a side support bracket. It is possible to drill a hole in the body if the warranty period has expired.
• The guide rail is extended as far as possible in front of the hand-held circular saw. The nose of the soleplate must overlap the guide rail by a few centimetres. Using a laminate circular saw blade, saw off the edges of the guide so that they align with the marking.

This will absorb the depth of cut (about 1.5 cm), but such a device is convenient and easy to make.

Variant 2. The base is a construction rule. Models with handles that slide along a groove will work.

• The handles are removed and replaced by spring-loaded, softly clamping clamps. Models with removable tops are suitable. After removing the upper part, the clamp is secured to the ruler with an adapter.
• The adapters are made of polypropylene on a milling machine. The result should be parts that resemble the letter “T” in section. They fit snugly into the handle groove.
• Holes are drilled in the “leg” of the adapters and screwed on with screws.
• The guide rail is placed with the groove down on the plate and tightened firmly with clamps from underneath. There are no braking parts for the circular saw from above. Only the length of the rule is limited in operation.

Option 3. In order to get an accurate cut, the edge of the base of the tool must be perfectly flat against the guide. Professional tools with molded soles differ in this feature, but inexpensive stamped bases do not have this property. That is why we offer the rail version. The tool slides on it without resting against the guide rail. This considerably reduces the effort required to push the saw. Rail can be made of aluminum U-shaped profile. Two pieces of the board with different cross-sections are needed. The smaller profile is inserted into the larger one without any gap, but it must be able to move freely.

Now the guide rail can be made by hand:

• Screw the larger diameter rail to the plywood. The heads of the screws and self-tapping screws are ground so that they can be hidden flush.
• On both sides of the rail, tighten the plywood strips 0 and also fasten them with screws. Plywood can be replaced with chipboard.

Cut off the excess widths and the rail is ready.

Prepare the hand saw:

• The small profile is inserted into the rail and the height of the “feet” is removed so that the profile is flush.
• The cut profile parallel to the saw’s disc is attached to the sole. Use a pair of M 4 wing screws for this purpose. If the circular saw’s platform is flat and of good quality, its edge can be adhered to.
• The hand saw is placed on the guide rail by inserting a profile into the guide rail. Turn on the tool and saw off the excess width of the strip.

For a perfect cut, the bar edge is overlaid on the marking and the guide is clamped. With the guide rail the saw moves smoothly and does not wobble, cuts accurately and feeds easily.

Features of the circular saw blade guide

The capabilities of hand tools are often limited. To make a cut in a wooden workpiece, it is necessary to press the sole of the hand circular saw firmly against it and move it smoothly forward along the marking. But the plunge of the working disc in the wood is accompanied by vibration. That is why it is quite difficult to hold the tool in hands on a given motion path.

This is what a parallel stop for a circular saw is for. It is fixed to the workpiece next to the marking line. And, having set it against the side of the hand saw’s sole, it is possible to achieve a perfectly even cut. Such a device becomes extremely necessary when planking. Without it it is very difficult to do this kind of work.

• Ensure cutting accuracy and quality of work.
• Create a safe working environment.
• Make it possible to make cuts in different configurations.

Not only longitudinal but also cross cuts can be made. Use it to adjust workpiece parameters. And also to carry out work on several elements at the same time. For example, to perform batch facing.

In the role of the guide for the circular saw can be an ordinary wooden bar or a bar of sufficient length and thickness. The only requirement is that the workpiece must be perfectly finished. And all sides are perfectly aligned. The slat can be clamped to the work table with screw clamps together with the workpiece. Even this simple device makes long cutting operations much easier.

But sometimes the skilled worker is also faced with difficult tasks. For example, to work on a part at a certain angle, or to make a cut in a complex shape. And in this case you can’t do without a special device.

The circular saw side stop comes in a variety of types:

• one-sided;
• double-sided;
• symmetrical;
• asymmetrical;
• complicated shapes;
• for specialized tasks;
• For cutting cross bars;
• universal.

Most often, the working side of the tool is marked with a millimeter marking. The ruler for the circular saw makes the work process much easier. It is also necessary if slots have to be cut in the workpiece.

Universal tire can be used both on a stationary circular saw and when working with hand tools. It comes in handy when using an electric jigsaw or a mechanical wood saw. And, of course, when working with a circular saw.

Manufacturing methods

Factory-made stops for circular saws are mostly made of metal. But there are also examples made of wood. The main condition. the material must not be subject to deformation. People craftsmen use different raw materials for the guide.

Materials for making the rail at home:

• plywood;
• wooden bars;
• metal angle;
• n-shaped profile;
• rails;
• End trumpet;
• laminate.

The easiest way to make a guide for the circular saw is from a pressed standard profile. Both aluminum and magnesium alloy blanks are suitable for the work. It is necessary to pick up a detail with an unequal shelf angular section. For example, one side will be 70 mm wide and 6 mm thick. The other side of the angle has dimensions of 41×10 mm.

Fitting under the table with grooves

This method is suitable if there is a workbench in the workshop, in the worktop of which there are already grooves. Roughly the same as on a standard stationary sawing machine. On both sides of the circular saw. The width of the groove is taken at random. In our case, it is 8 mm.

The parallel stop for the circular saw on the work table will be positioned as follows. The narrow side of the profile will rest on the surface. Its end must face away from the circular saw. The wide part rises above the table. The wooden workpiece to be machined will slide along it.

The entire fabrication process comes down to the following:

• The profile is cut to the right size. It must be slightly shorter than the table length.
• Mark on the narrow part from the inside the middle of the length of the whole piece.
• Measure the distance between the slots on the workbench. It is divided in half. And to the result in millimeters another 4.
• The obtained size is marked on both sides from the middle of the narrow part of the profile.
• On these marks a line for the trimmer is drawn perpendicular to the wide part of the angle.
• The centers for the 3 through holes on each side of the narrow part are marked on it. Their diameter is 8 mm and they must be at an equal distance from each other. As on the diagram below.
• All six holes are drilled and filed.
• Leave the central holes untouched, and press a pin from the outer side of the angle into every edge hole. Its protruding length equals the depth of the groove on the work table.

At the final step we insert the ready piece with pins into the grooves on the working table. The circular saw guide must move freely on the surface within the slots. The pins will not allow the stop to be out of parallel with the circular saw. To fix it firmly to the workbench you need to pick up 2 bolts of the right size.

For a table without slots

Take the same billet as in the previous case. But since the table already has no guide grooves, you need to make two additional parts. They can be made from a metal equal-sided angle of 20×20 mm.

They will slide along the ends of the table and serve as guides. But since the thickness of the workbench top may be thicker, it may be necessary to find a corner with matching sides. Because one of the profile ribs must go under the table top.

Step-by-step making of a side stop for a circular saw:

• The workpiece is cut to the length of the table.
• On its edges, in the ends of the narrow part, two holes are drilled to a depth of 30 mm for subsequent placing of the internal thread M5.
• A tap is used to cut a thread in each of them.
• Two parts equal to the width of the narrow part of the profile (41 mm) are cut from the steel angle.
• You need to make 3 holes for M5 threads in each of them. Two on the edges at the top. But, so that they coincide with the holes made in the end of the angle. And one at the bottom in the middle to fix it to the table.
• In all the holes you need to cut a thread.
• Each of the parts is to be attached to the ends of the circular stop with screws or bolts M5×25.

For the central hole choose a bolt with a wing nut or use a standard hexagonal head bolt. To be more convenient to fix the guide in the right place.

Such simple devices will greatly simplify all operations for sawing wood. And, thanks to the stop, the cut will turn out perfectly straight. And it’s easy and comfortable to use the simple mechanism in both cases.

Circular saw from a circular saw with their own hands

A stationary circular saw is a very necessary tool in the carpentry workshop. for those who perform carpentry work for their own needs or make various items to order. Such a stationary machine is characterized by the convenience of work. especially long and monotonous. With it, the master’s back is in a straight position, so it is less tired.

Today in stores machines and tools are available in a huge selection of models. However, for the simple carpenter they are too expensive, so to get out of the situation you have to look for other solutions. One such example. the craftsman made a stationary saw with his own hands, using a hand-held circular saw. In what way did he do it. see below.

List of necessary materials: hand circular saw; plywood 11 mm; bolts M-8 with a furniture cap; screws; switch; wire; bar 40×40; rails for furniture.

List of tools: electric jigsaw; hand circular saw; drill; electric screwdriver; hammer; screwdriver; pliers; ruler.

How to assemble a stationary circular saw

As we already noted, the author used a hand-held circular saw to make his circular saw. In doing so, he did not make any changes to the design of the saw itself. In this case, the master made a table, the sole of the saw attached to the bottom of the table top. where before the cut for the disk was made. He drilled the holes and then sawed. He took plywood and a 40×40 beam and made the base.

After that, the author took the plywood and sawed the table top. It is better if it is laminated or varnished, with a smooth and even surface. As described, the cut was made, and holes were drilled in the corners for subsequent fasteners.

At the bottom of the table top we are going to mount the circular saw, using M-8 bolts. In doing so, the bolt heads must be sunk into the plywood.

For more convenient work with the machine, the craftsman made a movable support on furniture rails.

An aluminum angle bracket for the longitudinal support.

To adjust it you need to loosen the screws and move it to the right distance for further work.

Bar for a circular saw with his hands

Anyone who has ever cut with a circular saw or jigsaw knows how difficult it is to make a straight cut without a guide rail. No matter how hard you try to guide the tool along the line, but it still deviates, and as a result you get an uneven kerf.

(Googling picture)

It is possible to saw evenly using the old tried-and-true method, attaching a guide rail or panel with clamps. But it is not always convenient, especially with a manual circular saw. The saw’s motor will be caught in the clamps.

Picture taken from: http://al-pascom/70050.html

In power tool stores you can buy guide bars. They cost about 2000-10000. There are universal ones and some that fit for certain tools or line of tools of certain manufacturer. (like that guide rail in the first picture)

Since my next home-built project needed a flat saw (and I think this will be needed quite often in the future), and I did not want to spend a lot of money, I came up with the idea of making a handy guide by my own hands.

After a walk through the market in Moskvorets, looking for something suitable among the aluminum profiles, it turned out that there is nothing suitable: either angles or channels, or pipes, or rails, but none of these did not fit without substantial and costly rework.

I found something I was looking for completely unexpectedly in a completely different place. At the tent where they were selling everything for repairing the apartment, we found this right.

Rule JYC-2000D-2 (a tool used for aligning walls). For only 400 rubles

The handles move along the right side of the groove and can be attached anywhere. If you remove them, in their place can be attached clamps.

In Leroy Merlin I bought such convenient clamps. For only 98

Unlike classic clamps, these are very easy to clamp the workpiece, quickly moved apart to the required size. And another big plus of this clamp for my task was that it has a removable top. After removing it, you can attach it to the right through the adapter.

But of course there are no ready-made adapters. And I made it out of a piece of polypropylene.

Although this design is not very suitable as a milling machine, but while my own milling machine I have not finished yet, I had to mill on what I had, attaching a coordinate table with self-drilling screws to the previously made drill stand.

Step by step I ground the piece to the needed size and shape. Unfortunately, at that time the cutter was shorter than required. Had to be turned in several steps.

(Here you see the new jaws, which I bought recently on a casual visit to a flea market in Novopodrezkovo)

As a result of milling we got such adapters:

Perfect fit

Having drilled necessary apertures in the adapter, fastened it on clamps.

Finished result:

This is how the guide will hold onto the workpiece. And there are no superfluous parts on top that interfere with the saw’s operation.

Now the guide can be conveniently fixed to the panel and evenly saw.