DIY Bearing Transfer. Cool crown on concrete and brick

Installation of sockets

In modern apartments and private houses there are a large number of electrical appliances, household appliances and equipment. Convenient use of these devices involves their rapid connection and disconnecting at specially equipped points. Such points are sockets, which requires a preliminary installation of sockets for safe operation. Their use is determined by the requirements of the PUE and is mandatory when installing modern electric networks.

Structurally, most of the sockets are made in the form of boxes or glasses of various shapes. The material is strong refractory plastic, metal is less commonly used. The outside is covered by special protrusions that provide fastening and grip with the wall after the solution dries. The internal walls, on the contrary, differ in a smooth surface.

On the case in certain places, plugs are installed, closing holes for the eyeliner of wires. During the installation process, when the outlet is installed in the socket, they are cut or squeezed out where it is necessary. The design also includes screws or self.tapping screws designed to fix the socket and outlet. Among electricians, these products are also called installation or installation boxes.

The main purpose of the sockets is as follows:

• Reliable holding of sockets in its place due to strong fixation in the wall of the mounting box, which must be smeared into the hole.
• Ensuring electrical safety. The socket in the concrete wall, as well as from brick and drywall, is made of materials with dielectric properties. The electric potential formed on the contacts of the sockets will no longer be able to freely get on metal structures in concrete.
• Protection of the installed sockets from the penetration of moisture, dust and small extraneous objects inside the body.
• Fire protection. The hermetic connection of the refractory body of the installation boxes prevents the spread of burning from an ignited outlet.
• Properly mounted hidden boxes look neat and aesthetically pleasing. The distance of the upper edge of the product is spent on a flush with the surface of the wall. In the future, the sockets themselves stand in their place exactly, without any distortions.

The main varieties

Before installing a socket, you need to choose exactly those products that are really necessary. There are several types of these products that differ in their own parameters and technical characteristics.

Depending on where they will be installed, the sockets differ as follows:

• Standard boxes installed in most designs. Are made in the form of a plastic glass, in the lower part of which there are slots for cables and wires. The same slots contribute to the improved fixation of the socket in the reinforced concrete wall when grasping gypsum or alabast solution.
• Products that allow you to install a socket in a drywall wall. In general, the design resembles the standard, with the exception of the paws with which the bottom is attracted to the surface. In the process of twisting the screws, the paws gradually rise up and reliably press the socket from the inside to the drywall.
• Installation boxes used in installation structures. As a rule, these are metal structures produced in a limited amount and assortment. For sockets of this type, there are requirements.

Most of the manufactured outlets are freely installed in mounting boxes with a diameter of 50 mm. In addition to a classic round shape, some types of sockets are produced by square, rectangular, multi.sectional, designed for installation in concrete or brick.

The choice and replacement of the sockets is performed taking into account such a parameter as the stock loop. It means a possible number of wires located behind an outlet or switch. Usually the average length of such a loop is up to 20 cm. The margin of wire is necessary in case of replacing sockets, when performing the lifting in the socket, cut the veins clamped in terminals. If there is no stock, you will have to increase the wire with terminals, welding, rations or twists. Therefore, the excess wires are folded and placed at the bottom of the box.

As for the holes to insert and derive the wiring, they should not use all that are planned in the box. This will lead to the entry of the mounting solution into the product, and in the future, dust and fine garbage from the wall will get there.

Types of sockets

Manufacturers make sockets of plastic, wood and metal. The last two species have lost their former popularity, since wood can only be used to install open wiring, and iron boxes can cause a short circuit.

There are 4 options for performing fasteners:

Round. The most popular and universal.

Square. spacious.

Oval. Are needed for the installation of two outlets or sockets and a switch in one casing.

Compound. Block of 2 or more sockets connected to one design.

Before buying a latch, you should decide on its size.

Dimensions

In the case of using products of a square shape, the size of the sockets by concrete are determined by the following characteristics:

For example, the dimensions of 68 × 68 × 43 are informed that the length and width of the box are 68 mm, and the depth of the socket for concrete is 43 mm. These parameters should be selected for a specific socket, which is planned to establish.

There is a size such as the fastener. the exact “distance” between the two holes for the installation of the socket mechanism.

Varieties of sockets

Before making the necessary purchases to start installation, it will be useful to understand what sockets are and how to choose them correctly.

There are three main types of them in total. for installation in concrete or brick, drywall or wood. Each of them meets certain safety rules and provides proper convenience of installation.

• Standard socket. This is a plastic glass with slots at the bottom through which a cable starts up. In addition, thanks to these slots, the glass is better fixed in a gypsum, alabaster or other solution.
• For drywall. Completely on the basis of the standard, but in addition in it there are paws that are attracted from bottom to top with bolts and reliably fix the socket in the wall.
• For wood. You need to choose iron sockets here. they are not so often sold, but they will not have to choose them for a long time. they are not released by such a large number of manufacturers.

Installation in a concrete wall

It is most often necessary to install sockets in concrete or in a brick wall, so that the method of such installation is worked out to the smallest detail and all possible methods have long been tried:

• Installation of sockets in concrete begins with marking. If the outlet on the wall is planned one, then the plus or minus the centimeter will not play, but when the block of sockets is installed, then it depends on the correctness of the marking how exactly it will be subsequently set.

There is a simple rule here. it is better to draw a mark with a pencil, the size of the crown in size. if the hole turns out to be a little displaced from the center, then you can still leve it when it comes to the turn to light the sockets in place.

• Then the holes of the sockets in concrete are drilled. when the marking is made correctly and there is the desired tool, then there should be no problems. Properly performed installation of standard sockets in a concrete wall involves drilling a hole of millimeters more than the installed socket itself. If there is no crown to drill concrete, then you can use a conventional drill with a winning tip. holes are drilled around the perimeter of the marked circle, and the inside is knocked out. If a drill or a peorator is absent, but there is an angular grinder, then for the sockets in concrete it is allowed to make a rectangular hole. they still need to be smeared into the wall with a solution.
• Trying on the socket. It is necessary to install a socket in a concrete wall, and also check in order to freely go into it. Since the putty will be put on the hole further, it is better to wrap the end of the wire in advance with electrical tape, if this was not done before.
• A layer of putty is superimposed in the hole in such a way as to press the socket and part of it crawled out. In this position, everything is left for several minutes so that the solution begins to grasp and then carefully remove its unnecessary part from the wall.

Now it remains to wait until the solution is completely freezed and the installation of a standard socket in the concrete wall is completed on this.

If for some reason it seems that the socket will not stay inside the wall, then additionally it can be fixed with dowels, under which 4 holes with a slope of 45 ° (entertainment) are drilled to the floor plane and wall.

We also recommend that you watch these two videos with a story about the intricacies of the unfortunate installations:

Devices for drilling

The opening device in concrete is selected based on the parameters of the concrete wall. There are such options:

• The thickness of the concrete ceiling does not exceed 300 mm. In this case, it is enough to use only a drill with a SDS-Plus cartridge. The preferred tool power is over 350 watts, the diameter of the drill clamped in the cartridge is 10 mm and above.
• The monolithic wall erected from the cement of the M400 and the highest brands can be cut out only by the SDS-MAX system with a shank diameter of 2 cm.
• For reinforced concrete structures, a heavier technique is optimal. a peorator.
• If necessary, drill a hole in the wall more than half a meter thickly used (rarely used in domestic conditions due to difficulties with connecting to a single and dual-phase network).

Thus, for drilling holes for the socket, the peorator is most often used. It is used independently, or in combination with a crown for a socket.

A hole using a crown

Crowned Building by concrete. consumables used together with the peorator for drilling holes. Consists of 4 elements:

• Pin with a flange for mounting on the device.
• The crown itself (has the appearance of a pipe with a diameter of up to 8 cm) with a thread.
• Drill for centering.
• Screw.
• winning (the cheapest and short.lived);
• tungsten carbide (universal use, quickly wear out without the possibility of recovery, but are inexpensive);
• metal with diamond spraying (cuts reinforcement, drilles the hole in 3-5 minutes of work).
• Withstand up to 10 cycles of work (cut up to 10 holes). they cost an average of 500;
• maintain performance even after 100-150 disperse in concrete. their

The following actions are performed for the manufacture of the hole:

• The pedorator drill is combined with the marking center on the wall, blend concrete for the required thickness.
• Put on the apparatus a collected crown. The centering drill is inserted into the finished hole, the device is included.
• The crown enters the wall two.thirds. this is how an even hole turns out.

Crown and drill combination

The crown even with winning teeth in the diameter of the cylinder is not always able to cut out the concrete wall. Therefore, they often use the combined method of drilling: with a coronet drill, they finish the work begun by the drill. In order to carry out work on reinforced concrete or strengthened surfaces, take the following steps:

• Mark the center of the new power point and approximate radius.
• The pedorator drill the center of the future outlet is drilled, and also make holes in diameter with a step of 2-3 mm.
• If it is necessary to perform the work as carefully and evenly as possible, the marking is made by the crown itself, turning it on for 7-10 seconds in drilling mode.
• Then they work out the wall around the circle with a drill, making an average of 20 holes. If the holes are drilled less, then during operation, the jolly movements of the penetrator are possible. the device is advised to keep it stronger.

Drilling by a pedorator

If there are no crows for the penetrator, and the work must be performed immediately, resort to an alternative drilling method:

• Design the center and circle of the future outlet.
• The holes are drilled with a drill in the middle and in diameter with a small step.
• Then, with the same drill, the recesses in concrete are drilled inside the already outlined circle for the socket. To knock concrete from the inside is allowed and with a chisel.

The process is very expensive in time and the efforts to be used in exceptional cases. The method also does not guarantee decorativeness: the knocked out circle will have uneven edges and unequal depths.

The use of corner grinders

Another unpopular method is the thread of the hole under the socket with a corner grinder. For work, the appropriate disk is used to work on concrete surfaces. They start work like this:

• The circuit of the outlet is marked, but not in the form of a circle, as in other methods, but in the form of a square with sides 8 cm.
• Turn on the corner grinder and make cuts of the desired depth.
• With the help of a hammer and a chisel, the concrete from the resulting contour is extracted.

The radius of the disk of the corner grinder is usually less than the necessary depth of the hole, so the wall is worked out with a chisel not only within the cuts, but also in deep.

This option is considered the most dangerous of the presented, because incorrect movements of the device lead to breakdown of the disk. The consequence of such an incident is often accidents.

Corner grinder is carried out only at right angles to the wall, without changing the position of the cutting parts during operation. In addition, when carving, the device occurs more harmful cement dust than from the peorator.

What to do if the reinforcement is in the wall

Sometimes even a simple process of drilling holes for the socket is complicated by the presence of strengthening reinforcing in the wall. The action plan is as follows:

• A thin reinforcing grate with a diameter of up to 5 mm is cut down by a pedorator drill or stolen with a chisel. You need to do this carefully, but clearly at the edges of the crate.
• Thick fasteners (from 10 mm), it is advisable to get around at the stage of choosing a place for a socket. In extreme cases, it is allowed to kill the reinforcement using a metal drill, which make a through hole in the grill. The weakened element is knocked out with a chisel and a hammer, bended with pliers.

A hole under the outlet with an angular grinder

Sometimes it can turn out that there is no pedorator at hand, and the hole under the outlet is necessary to make. In this case, you can use a corner grinder. Of course, this is far from the best option, but, in extreme cases, it is quite applicable.

• To use this option, first of all, you need to outline the contour of the future outlet. To do this, you can use a regular pencil.
• The next step is to prepare for the work of a corner grinder on concrete. The instruction advises to put on glasses, respirator, or at least a gauze bandage. It is also better to protect your head with a headdress.
• After that, the corner grinder, with a circle along the concrete of the corresponding diameter, make cuts at the extreme points of the future hole. Cuts must have an appropriate depth. The minimum number of incisions for obtaining a square is four, but you can make a figure closer to a circle.

note! When performing work, in no case can you change the position of the corner grinder relative to the wall. This can lead to a breakdown of the disk and the scraps of fragments. This, in turn, can lead to very deplorable injuries.

• After that, using a regular chisel and a hammer, we begin to knock out concrete in the center of incisions. Labor is painstaking, but there are no other options.

Connecting wiring

The most crucial part of the entire work is that you need to connect only two or three wires (depending on the presence of grounding), but do it without errors.

First of all, using an indicator screwdriver, make sure that the wiring is de.energized. One or two minutes spent on the shutdown of the circuit breaker and checking the presence of voltage will make the work much more comfortable and safer.

Stripping wires. From the ends of the veins, it is necessary to remove 1.5-2 cm of insulation at 1.5-2 cm. Next, the bare piece is bent by the ring, and if it is a multi.core, then it can still be divided in two so that the ends of the wires acquire the shape of the letter “V”.

Connecting wires. On the outlet there are only two terminals of live contacts and the third for grounding. All of them are clamped with bolts and inserted wires just nowhere. If the wiring is used with the correct color marking, then the yellow-green wire is in contact with the ground (it “hangs” on the plate with the “mustache” sticking forward), blue to zero and remaining on the phase (there can be any other color). Grounding must be connected to the contact intended for her, and the phase with zero to the remaining. no matter in what order.

Bloc of sockets is connected by a train or star. In the first case, the wires from the previous one come to the contacts of one outlet and immediately go to the next. In the second. the wires from each outlet go to the general “gathering point” and there are connected. phase to the phase, zero to zero. It should be borne in mind that PUE prohibits the connection of grounding with a train. this is how the phase and zero can be connected, and the “land” must be carried out by the star.

The end of the installation

When the wiring is reliably “sitting” in the contacts, the inside of the outlet can be inserted into the socket. To do this, bend the wires so that they are parallel to the back wall and push everything inside.

The inside is fixed in the socket with spacer paws. so that they disperse to the sides, it is necessary to tighten the fasteners, which are always located in the front part. When the bolt is spinning clockwise, the foot goes to the side, but on the contrary, it just sags along the case. Sometimes the paws interfere with the insertion of the socket, opening up ahead of time, so they are baked to the case with a thread or tighten the clerical elastic band.

Additionally, the socket can be fixed by bolts that are screwed into the front of the socket.

The last step is to fasten the lid. It has central pins, so fixing it on the outlet is incorrectly problematic. When everything is ready, the electricity is turned on and the work of the outlet, as well as grounding, is checked. Checking can be done before installing the inside in the socket, but this is already who feels the quality of his work.

Step.by.step instructions for installing and connecting a socket in this

As a result. installing a household outlet in a concrete wall is not an overwhelming task even for a non.professional. If they have to install several pieces, then all the nuances will definitely be delayed in memory. subsequently it will be possible to act as an instructor.

Installation and fixation of the mounting box

Installation of the installation box has its own procedure.

The sockets in the wall are mounted in several stages:

• First, it is required to cut the holes for the cable according to the appropriate marking. In some models, it is simply pushed by the effort of the finger. If necessary, the hole can be increased to the size of the cable.
• After entering the cable into the socket, it is inserted into the finished hole. It is necessary to control the free space so that the supply is at least 2-3 mm. Such a gap is necessary for filling a fixing solution.
• Next, the final adjustment of the holes and the box is performed in size. Then the niche must be cleaned of garbage and dust.
• It is better to use alabastr or medical gypsum for filling. You need to prepare the solution very quickly, since it has a very small hardening time, and should be covered for 5-7 minutes.
• Before fixing the socket in the concrete wall and start filling with the solution, the hole is wetted with water, after which it should be absorbed for 3-5 minutes. Such a measure allows you to do without a primer.
• The mixture is laid inside the opening with a spatula, after which it is necessary to put the sockets in their place as tightly as possible. Through the holes in the body, the solution seeps and occurs inside the product. Next, we fix the installation box in place.
• After that, nothing can be done with the box until the solution dries completely, otherwise it can be fixed with a skew. At the very end, the gaps around the socket are processed, which also need to be covered. A dried solution is easily removed from the plastic from the inside of the case.

The right choice of a socket for concrete walls

The parameters and characteristics by which you should choose sockets for concrete were discussed above. First of all, you need to pay attention to the dimensions, material and shape of the installation box. Of great importance is the manufacturer that manufactured this or that products.

The most famous suppliers of installation boxes:

• Schneider Electronic and its IMT35101 and IMT products belong to the most popular models. The diameter is 65 mm, and the depth, respectively, is 60 and 40 mm. The first socket is deep in concrete costs 6, the second. 7.
• The company “Proprukav”, models of 80-0500C and 80-0510C DECECTIONS FORMENTS have the same diameter of 64 mm and differ in a depth of 40 and 60 mm. They are worth 4 and 6, respectively.
• Legrand Batibox presents model 81940. representing an advanced version of the socket. It is not only deep in concrete and brick, but also has an enlarged edge and more convenient captures that fix the box during installation. The holes located in the case have sizes that allow you to start any wiring, not only in the vertical, but also in the horizontal direction. The price of the product is higher. approximately 80

There are other types of boxes widely used in electrical work. For example, Legrand Batibox represents another 81942 model that has preserved all the advantages from the previous product, but with a greater depth of 58 mm. This makes it possible to simultaneously install 4 modules designed for two posts. This option belongs to the most expensive and costs approximately 350.

Legrand Batik deterves are universal modifications. They are made of high-strength plastic and designed for 1-3 post.

Why is the installation of sockets in the house so important

Connecting electrical installations to power cable must be safe. The rules provide for each outlet to be mounted along with the protective body. a socket. This mounting box or glass provides protection against electricity lesion.

Installation of mounting glasses increases fire safety when using electrical outlets

The outlet sockets, as well as street models are already equipped with a protective building, which meets the safety requirements. It is advisable to supply the built.in type during installation with sockets.

The main functions of installation boxes for sockets:

• Structural. glasses securely fix and hold the outlet in the wall.
• Protective. box prevents dust, moisture and extraneous objects into the electrical installation device.
• Electric current protection protection-glasses for installing sockets in concrete walls and partitions are made from deiel materials, due to which the supporting structures are protected from current from contacts.
• Aesthetic. a seat of plastic or metal provides an even surface around the outlet, so the entire installation area looks neat.
• Fire safety. if a fire arises inside the outlet, then the flame will not be able to leave the limits of the box.

Sockets and switches installed in special glasses look more neat and aesthetically pleasing

Useful advice! If the glass jumped out of the wall or is simply poorly fixed, it can be fixed with a self.tapping screw, which should be screwed into the base. For concrete surfaces, you also need to add a dowel. An alternative to this method is an adhesive gun. When working with drywall, the sockets are fixed with a solution of plaster. Previously, the surface must be treated with a primer (PVA glue is suitable).

The selection of products and recommendations for the installation of sockets

Wall material is the first thing to consider when choosing a socket. On this basis, existing types of products can be divided into two categories: for full.bodied walls and for thin partitions.

Full.bodied walls include the bases made of solid materials. Among them are aerated concrete, brick, concrete and reinforced concrete. For such materials, sockets are used without additional fixers. To fix the product in the wall, a construction mixture (alabaster or gypsum) is used).

Such glasses provide installation holes for wires. They are placed in the bottom or in the walls. Before installing the socket in the concrete wall, you just need to break the jumpers and squeeze out the plug to free up the hole.

In installation glasses, special openings for wires are provided

Thin partitions are made from composite materials. These include plastic slabs, drywall and plywood sheets, wood-based wood and pr. For such surfaces, mounting boxes are used, equipped with metal.mounted paws of metal or plastic. They are pressed, reliably fixing the glass in a hollow wall. The paws are held inside the box with screws that regulate their position.

For the installation of triple sockets, glasses are used, in the lateral part of which there is a special mechanism for fasteners. Products of this type can be combined into entire blocks, fastening them by groove joints by.

What are the requirements to meet the glasses under the outlet

The material from which the box is made should have a sufficient margin of strength. High.quality products can withstand the effort that is attached in order to remove the fork from the outlet. In this case, the mounting box should remain in the wall, and not pull out after it. To ensure these conditions, manufacturers equip glasses with special grooves, ribs and hooks. All these elements are located on the outside. This rule applies to glasses that are fixed in the wall by building mixtures.

Technological holes perform two functions: provide access to the wires to the outlet and enhance the degree of fixation of the box inside the wall. After installing the socket in the concrete, pulling out the glass will no longer be possible. Will have to break plastic or destroy the wall area around it.

Installation glasses must be reliably fixed inside the seats

As a material for the manufacture of most boxes, plastic is used. Several types of raw materials are used in production. There are also metal sockets for wood. But it is still worth giving preference to plastic. This material, unlike metal, has dielectric properties. In addition, the purchase of a plastic socket will cost cheaper.

Important! Before buying a glass, you need to make sure that there are ribs necessary for fixing the outlet. Manufacturers form them on the inside of the products.

Metal sockets have another drawback. From the inside they have a perfectly smooth surface. The fasteners on the outlets simply have nowhere to catch on, so electrical installation devices may fall out.

Plastic glasses should not maintain combustion. This requirement is of particular importance if it is planned to install a socket in drywall and other composite partitions. With brick and concrete walls, the risk of fire is much lower. However, a closure in the outlet can provoke a fire of wallpaper or furniture located nearby.

The place inside the socket is enough to place the required wires

Installation distances between sockets and other standards for the device of electrical installations

Before installing a socket in the wall, you need to choose the optimal place for its placement. According to the standard, the installation distance between the centers of glasses is 71 mm. This value is used in cases where it is necessary to organize several sockets at once in one place. Electric power plants belong to the category of sources with increased danger, so points for their installation are selected taking into account safety requirements.

Basic rules for placing electrical installations:

• between the gas pipe and the outlet. at least 0.5 m;
• It is advisable to install electrical installations from the side where the handle is on the door and at a height of not more than 1 m from the floor;
• In the bathroom, the installation of sockets with an indentation of at least 0.6 m from the bath, shower and washbasin is allowed to eliminate spraying;
• The distance from the floor depends on the purpose of the outlet. If the electrical installation is necessary to connect large household appliances, its installation is carried out at an altitude of 1 m from the coating. This rule applies to dishwashers and washing machines, electric stoves, refrigerators. For universal purpose outlets, 0.3 m high is enough;

When planning sockets, it is necessary to adhere to the requirements for their placement

• in the kitchen, where small equipment is located on the table, blocks of sockets for it are installed at a height of 0.1 m above the level of the working surface;
• The parameters for sockets for a wall TV in the kitchen are selected individually;
• The proper installation of the socket also provides for the standards for placing boxes horizontally. Between the outlet and the door frame should be at least 0.15 m. The same applies to the floor, corners and ceiling of the room;
• The electrical installation is mounted with an indent of at least 0.5 m from the heating radiator.

Important! It is strictly forbidden to install sockets over gas and electric slabs, as well as heating devices. The exception is the “warm floor” system. Installation of electrical installations in the premises of saunas and baths is not allowed. In addition, standards are prohibited from using walls that go outside to organize wiring and placement of sockets.

Diamond coronet drill

The diamond crown is reliable, durable, allows you to work on reinforced concrete and without cooling liquid. Wear.resistant cutting segments consist of strongest artificial diamonds in a metal bunch. Drilling with a diamond crown is performed in unstressed mode, which allows you to get neat and geometrically accurate cavities for sockets that do not require improvement. It is advisable to use diamond equipment for large volumes of work, but such a tool is expensive.

How to choose a distillery diameter for a socket? The most common size of a plastic glass for outlets and switches is 68 mm. In order for the hole to correspond to it, it is necessary to choose a crown of diameter 68. 70 mm.

Corner grinder and diamond disk according to concrete

When there is no penetrator at your disposal, you can make a hole under the outlet using a conventional angular grinder and a cutting disk on concrete 230 mm. The method is simple, but rather dusty and laborious. Having marking the circle on the wall (the place of the future niche for the socket), we cut out the square and the cross in the center around the perimeter. Then it knocks out the wall material with a hammer and a chisel, we bring the hole to the desired depth, taking into account the fact that the socket must “drown” in the wall by 4-5 mm.

If you have one.time work during home repair, then it makes no sense to buy a diamond tool. You can purchase an inexpensive carbide crown, for example, from the domestic manufacturer Enor. Its resource is enough for you for a long time, if you do not allow it to overheat, use water cooling when working and not drill reinforced concrete.