DIY circular saw pusher

D non-hazardous pusher for circular saw do-it-yourself drawings | articles on online-marafon

Hello, dear readers and homemade craftsmen! Almost all of those who are engaged in carpentry work often use different machines in their own practice.

The proposed project is especially concerned with circular saw and milling machine, and specifically, non-hazardous work with them. Maybe you have already seen the so-called 3D harmless pusher, allowing to fix the workpiece at once from several sides.

Maybe due to the effectiveness and popularity of this device, its cost is very biting.

In this article, the creator of the YouTube channel “Tree-An Wood” will tell you how you can create such a device without the help of others.

Surprisingly, this homemade product is relatively ordinary in production, and is made on the same machines for which it is intended.

Materials Film faced plywood 12 mm wide. Acrylic sheet 10 mm wide. Furniture driven nuts, M6 bolts, washers, wing nuts. Wood screws, M6 countersunk head screws, two-component epoxy adhesive. Titebond II adhesive, sandpaper.

The tools used by the creator.— Geifer gripper, clamps, spring clamps— electric screwdriver, drilling machine— Groove saw, Forstner drills— Electronic Neuler, band saw— Circular saw, carriage, pushers— Milling machine— Straight cutters for wood — angle grinder, cutting disc— Belt grinder— Orbital sander— Combined ruler, pencil, awl, screwdriver, knife.

Production process. The master kindly provided detailed drawings, on which he indicated the dimensions of all parts and assemblies. The whole system will consist of 3 main parts: carriages, base, and corner posts. At the same time, there will be another movable part on the carriage. central adjustable clamp.

According to the drawings, the master cuts out all the details from 12 mm wide film faced plywood. Apart from rectangular blanks, two isosceles right triangles are required.

It is very better to use a carriage in the manufacture of parts, which allows you to maintain angles of 90 degrees.

On the upper surface of the base and the foot of the rack, two grooves are made with a depth and width of 3 mm. The next same groove is made in the center of the front vertical part of the rack.

Now, in the center of the bottom surface of the base, a groove is cut for the head of the pressure screw. Its width will be 8 mm, and its depth will be 5 mm.

Having cut out a rectangle with dimensions of 220X120 mm from a sheet of acrylic 10 mm wide, the creator runs over to a milling machine. Having installed a straight cutter with a diameter of 8 mm, he makes a groove, retreating from a narrow edge by 20 mm to its center. To avoid chipping, a through slot is milled from 2 sides of the workpiece.

The same groove is made from the other edge of the carriage cover, and in the vertical part of the rack (on the rack, the indent is 32 mm).

Trying to get absolutely literally in the middle of the base, a slot is also made in it, but its width is already 6 mm.

On 2 blanks for an adjustable clamping of the carriage, the creator removed the laminate and glued them together, increasing the thickness of the part to 24 mm.

Between themselves, at an angle of 90 degrees, two parts of the rack are glued together. Additionally, the connection is reinforced with studs using a nailer.

While the glue dries, the creator tightens them with clamps.

After a while, two triangular supports are glued and fixed with nails.

According to the drawings, the creator drills holes in the details with a diameter of 8 mm. With all this, he used such a slotted saw-drill, although there was no particular need for it. Ordinary through holes.

On the upper part of the movable clamp, and on the side of the side of the carriage, around the holes, seats are made for driving nuts using a Forstner drill.

A little glue is applied to these places, and the M8 flange nuts are hammered.

Pilot holes for screws are drilled around the edges of the acrylic cover, with the sides pressed against it. Then countersink is made for countersunk heads.

So that the stand moves relative to the base strictly at a right angle, a plastic plate is adjusted to the width of the grooves by grinding. Strips are cut from it.

Heads are cut off from M8 bolts. Instead, you can simply cut them into pieces with an M8 iron pin.

Fixing the position of the stand on the base will be this M6 countersunk screw. The creator specially grinds the edges of the head from 2 sides on a band machine, holding the screw with a geyfer grip.

This shape is needed so that the screw does not rotate in the groove.

Having marked the contours on a wood board, the creator cuts the blank for the handle on the band saw.

The edges are rounded off with an orbital machine, and on a drilling machine with a drum grinder.

Two holes are drilled and countersinked in the lid for attaching the handle.

The handle is pressed against the lid, marks are made on it with an awl, and pilot holes for screws are drilled.

Then a guide key is glued into the groove on the side of the carriage using a two-component epoxy adhesive.

The same two keys are installed in the base of the rack.

Screw trims are screwed into the nuts, and sit on epoxy glue.

The handle is also glued and screwed to the carriage.

After polymerization of the glue, the excess keys are cut off.

Then the carriage cover is screwed to two sides. They will also play the role of clamps.

An adjustable clamp is installed in the central part of the carriage, washers are put on the screws and wing nuts are screwed on.

Now the corner stand is connected to the base. It has the ability to simply move along the grooves.

Then a clamping screw is inserted, which connects the rack to the base. It is also secured with a wing nut.

Well, the extreme carriage connects to the rack.

In order to ensure good adhesion of the clamps to the workpieces, the creator glues a narrow foam rubber band to their lower part. Also unsurpassed sandpaper approaches 120-180 grit.

After the glue dries, the excess gum is cut off.

Finally, the device is ready. They can press the edge of the board in 2 directions.

And also press immediately both parts of the cut part.

The most thoroughly about the capabilities of such a pusher is shown in the following video. As well as reference on this pusher.

Thanks to the master for the usual but useful attachment for the carpentry workshop.!

Good mood, good health, and exciting thoughts to everyone!

actual news

Hello dear readers and homemade products!

One of the most necessary and common machine tools in a carpentry workshop is a circular saw. And it requires a variety of tools to work accurately and safely.

In this article, Ivan, author of the YouTube channel “Crazy Workshop”, will tell you how you can make a pusher carriage with a locking block. With its help, it is convenient to trim and cut workpieces into a given size at right angles.

This project is very easy to make, and most of it can be done with the same circular saw.

Materials required for DIY Thick plywood, board. T-bolts, M6 nuts. Bakelite wing nuts. Wood screws with countersunk head. Abrasive sponge, wood glue, two-component second glue, spray paint, linseed oil.

The tools used by the author.— F-clamps — electric screwdriver, wood drills with countersink — Three-point wood drills, drilling machine — Hand router, T-cutters — Insert plate with rings for a milling table — Circular saw — Swenson’s square— Combined angle ruler, awl, pencil.

Manufacturing process So, the main material for the carriage stop will be sheet plywood with a thickness of 20 mm or more. It will require two strips of the same length.

The width of the base strip can be selected at your discretion, but at the same time it should be more than half of the protruding part of the saw blade.

The master cuts a strip for the vertical part of the stop with a width of 70 mm.

In this strip, you need to make a T-shaped groove (also called a T-track). To do this, the master installs a T-cutter on the milling machine.

The master made such a milling table independently, and it is based on an ordinary manual milling cutter. On almost any homemade milling table, you can install just such a plate with replaceable rings, which will not only expand its capabilities, but also make it easier to work with it.

The master sets the overhang of the cutter using a combined angular ruler to a height of 10 mm. A digital height and depth gauge is also perfect for these purposes. A T-slot is milled along the middle mowing line of the vertical part of the fence.

Next, two strips are cut out of the board, which will serve as a reciprocal slide for the guide slots of the circular table.

The resulting blanks are ground manually with an abrasive sponge.

These strips should fit tightly into the grooves, and practically have no backlash. over, their height should be a fraction of a millimeter more than the groove depth.

Now the master glues the base and the carriage stop together. In this case, it is necessary to precisely align the lower plane of the base and stop. While the glue hardens, the parts are pressed with clamps.

Both slats are inserted into the grooves, and their ends are aligned with the near edge of the table. After that, glue is applied to them, and the carriage is applied.

The master carries out the alignment of the carriage relative to the guides using a large square, resting it on the saw blade and carriage.

See also  How To Saw On A Circular Saw

This operation is carried out on both sides of the saw blade at its maximum overhang. over, the square’s ruler should rest completely not on the teeth, but on its disc body.

During gluing, the carriage is pressed against the guides with a heavy load.

Wing nuts can be purchased or made by yourself. Why did the author cut a disc out of plywood with a crown?

In the center of the disc, a blind 10-mm bore hole for the M6 ​​nut is drilled, and then a through hole is made with a diameter of 6 mm.

Then the M6 ​​nut is pressed into place.

On the underside of the guides, pilot holes are prepared with a wood drill with a countersink. So the master strengthens the adhesive connection of the guides with the carriage with several self-tapping screws with a countersunk head.

After the glue dries, the guide is installed on the sawing table, and a slot is made in it at the full overhang of the disc. As soon as the top point of the saw blade reaches the stop plane, the carriage must be stopped.

Since the saw blade will “look out” from the back of the carriage, the master decided to make a protective pad. He just glues a small block of wood in this place.

In addition to the protective function, this element will be convenient to use as a handle, so you need to take care of its shape in advance.

Further, from two pieces of plywood, the master glues just such an L-shaped piece. This will be the top of the stop block.

On the second rectangular part (its length is equal to the height of the stop 70 mm), you need to accurately transfer the groove center mark in the stop, and drill a hole for the T-bolt. The master made the hole with a 6-mm three-point drill.

Now the clamping part of the locking block is assembled from the M6 ​​T-bolt, nut and the last part.

By inserting the head of the T-bolt into the T-slot, the block is secured with a nut.

A small amount of second glue is applied to the top edge of the block, and the L-shaped piece of the stopper is pressed. The author uses a two-component second glue, which allows the part to be fixed in the desired position by applying a hardener.

For convenience, the master paints the stop block with spray paint. This way it will be better seen.

All surfaces of the carriage are impregnated with linseed oil, which protects the product from moisture and displays a beautiful woody texture.

The finished carriage is left to dry for a couple of days.

Everything is ready, the new pusher carriage can be assembled.

The stop block can be positioned on the stop on the left or right, at the desired distance from the saw blade. A self-adhesive measuring tape, which can be glued to the upper edge of the stop, is the right addition.

To begin with, the master cuts several identical square blanks from the board, just for this a stop block is convenient.

The second, wide board, he cuts at a right angle, and checks the product with Svenson’s angle.

Using the just cut end as a base, the workpiece is dismantled into several parts.

The advantage of such a carriage-pusher over a large carriage is the absence of a base, which always hides the maximum available height of the saw blade (this often does not allow cutting very thick boards in one pass).

Thanks to the author for a simple but useful circular saw attachment.!

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Safety pusher for circular saw

Working safely with a circular saw should always be the first principle when organizing work in a carpentry workshop. The GRR-RIPPER from MicroJig is a pusher designed to keep your fingers safe. The first video shows the official presentation of this device. On rollers at the very bottom of the publication. a way to make a safe device yourself.

There are two key design considerations for this fixture. the center stop and the green dustproof rubber. It clings to the board better than the traditional one. Center stop, which is adjustable and allows you to control the workpiece on both sides of the cut. This is the secret.

As you can see, the center fence moves, which allows it to control the board on both sides of the cut, which prevents it from hitting when it flies out and hits us. Today I will show you how to cut one-fourth of an inch into a piece. This is just a demonstration of the possibilities, and the device works well for large parts too.

It is very easy to learn how to work on this emphasis. There are three settings. The first setting is that it moves left and right. You don’t need a ruler to adjust to 1/4 inch kerf. Move the stop one quarter of an inch, place the pusher on top, and move it closer to the saw. If you understand how this is done, you have already mastered the first principle. When we work with wide boards, nothing else needs to be adjusted.

If we work with narrower workpieces, then the pusher will walk a little. For this we need a second setting. This is a black platform, we will lower it to the level of the table. Thus, it will hold the device in a horizontal plane. If you understand this, then you have mastered the second principle. As you know, not even the fingers are most often injured, namely the torso, when the board is hit and it flies and hits the stomach.

Finally, the third setting of the safety pusher is the so-called pressure comb. On one side there is a ledge, on the other side it is smooth. This pressure plate allows you to control the material from 5-6 possible sides. We will press from the top, from the side, to the parallel stop, from the back. The only direction where the workpiece can fly away is only forward. Of course this will not happen. Let me show you how it’s done.

Let me remind you that we control the workpiece from 2 sides due to the fact that there is a narrow kerf and a wide one. Therefore, we can push the tree on both sides of the cut 10 centimeters from the revolving saw. And since our workpiece is at a distance of 10 centimeters above the saw, we can, while the saw is running, reach out and take a tree.

The following shows how to do this when working with a safety joinery pusher. Namely, how to make 2 narrow ones from a wide bar. To do this, we need to reconfigure the pusher, it will be necessary to unscrew two nuts and lower the horizontal stop. We also need to reconfigure the clamping comb and screw these nuts back. Again, we will control the small workpiece from 5 sides. Continued in the video above. If you want to make the same device with your own hands, then the video below is shown. Used materials from the channel Mikhail Makarevich. A simplified version and somewhat more convenient, here.

How to make a pusher for a circular saw

Hello dear readers and homemade products!

When working with a circular saw and other machines, it is necessary to strictly observe safety precautions. For this reason, a wide variety of devices are used to move and control the workpiece at a hand-safe distance. One of the common devices is pushers. As you know, they quickly wear out the “tooth” that clings to the workpiece.

In this article, the author of the YouTube channel “Ohyo56” will tell you how you can make a push-type pusher with a removable and adjustable tooth.

This project is very easy to repeat in a carpentry workshop and only requires plywood cuts.

Materials. necessary for homemade products Film faced plywood, thin board. Silicone sheet. Self-tapping screw with a press washer, wood glue, sandpaper.

Instruments. used by the author Circular miter saw. Saw blades for wood. electric screwdriver. Steel F-shaped clamps. Screwdriver with a set of bits. Roulette, square, marker, file, knife.

Manufacturing process. So, the main material for the body will be thick, single-sided film-faced plywood. Two workpieces with a length of 200 mm are cut from the trim. This will be the length of the hull.

By moving the parallel stop to the disc at a distance of 60 mm, the workpieces are cut in width (this is already the height of the future body).

Both parts are folded together, and a wooden plank with a thickness of about 15-20 mm is tried on to them. Its width should be slightly less than the width of the body.

A tooth with a length of about 10 cm is cut from this strip.

Now the overhang of the saw blade is set to half the width of the bar. After that, in both blanks (from the side opposite to the lamination), in several passes, grooves are formed with a width equal to the thickness of the bar.

The halves of the body and the tooth are trial assembled.

Both halves of the body are glued together and pulled together with clamps. In this case, you need to check that the edges of the grooves coincide with each other.

After the glue hardens, a thin through hole is drilled in the back of the case to the groove. The screw that fixes the tooth will be screwed into it.

Now the clamps can be removed and the excess glue that has come out can be removed with a knife or chisel.

The body edges are aligned on the miter saw. It also cuts off the upper rake angle at 45 degrees.

Returning to the circular saw, the technician levels the sole and the upper surface of the body.

Behind the scenes, the author made just such a wooden handle, which is glued to the upper part of the case, and temporarily pressed with clamps.

The handle of this shape sits comfortably in the hand, and has a forward tilt, which allows you to simultaneously push and press the part against the sawing table.

Almost everything is ready, it remains to sand the non-laminated surfaces and saturate them with linseed oil. This is how the replacement tooth is inserted into the housing. The distance it protrudes from the bottom of the case is easily adjustable.

See also  How to choose a miter saw for wood

To fix the position of the plate, a self-tapping screw with a press washer is suitable. Before screwing into place, the edge of the self-tapping screw must be grinded off with a file.

In the front of the sole, the author glued a piece silicone sheet.

As you can see, with the help of such a pusher, the workpiece is reliably controlled in two planes.

Also, this device can be used as a side stop, which is convenient when cutting small parts.

Thanks to the author for a simple but useful tool for the carpentry workshop.!

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Jointer pusher

Large pusher for planer. Dimensions, drawing, assembly diagram.

Pusher

A simple yet functional circular saw pusher can save your fingers. The protruding stop has a variable overhang, which allows processing workpieces of different thicknesses.

Milling pusher

Pusher for milling or filing the ends of workpieces, for example, in the manufacture of panels (as in the photo).

A pusher for every taste. Blueprints

Drawings of pushers for every taste, from small to pressure. Detailed dimensions will make it easy to choose and make yourself. indispensable when working on a circular saw.

AlfFisher. My job: Circular pushers

Today a viewer approached me: “This is exactly what I need now. Could you take a photo of your main pusher in full size and send it by email?”

Of course, you could answer in a personal, but I don’t have much free time to engage in personal consultations.

Therefore, I will answer in the format of an article in order to convey information to a large number of readers.

I have already talked more than once about the pushers in my

= I use a wide variety of pusher types, some I showed in the video, others still need to be filmed.

Most often I use stick pushers. They are always at hand (lie on the saw table)

They are made very simply, work literally for 10 minutes.

Material. pine lath 25 x 50 x 500 dimensions are approximate. The pusher is made “along the arm”, the edges (corners) of the handle are rounded with a radius cutter R8.

Fig. 1 Pusher 3D

The front of the pusher is cut at an angle

30 degrees, and has a ledge on it that allows you to push the part forward and pull it back.

The front of the push rod has been cut to a thickness of 8 mm to make it easier to push thin parts between the ruler and the saw blade.

Fig. 2 Pusher, dimensions.

I do not give more detailed dimensions, since each master has different initial data for both materials and tasks.

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Multifunctional circular saw carriage

Materials Sheet plywood. Boards. Wood screws. T-track. PVA glue.

The tools used by the author.— T-track clamps — Circular saw — Orbital sander — Battery neiler — angle grinder, cutting disc — Clamps — electric screwdriver — Countersink drill — Marking planer — Awl, square, ruler, file.

Manufacturing process. First of all, the master cuts out the base for the carriage from sheet plywood. Then he cuts a strip according to the dimensions of the guide in the circular saw table. The surfaces of the rail are sanded with an orbital machine. The rail should move freely along the guide, and practically have no backlash.

Now it is necessary to mark the place for fixing the rail with a marking planer. It is important to leave a small margin on the base, its edge will be leveled later. The rail is glued to the bottom of the carriage base, and additionally fixed with a nailer. Excess glue is removed with a cloth.

After the glue has dried, the carriage is installed in the guide and a control alignment of the carriage edge is done. Then the master marks the required length of the T-track.

Cuts the strip to the desired length, and processes the sharp edges of the saw cut with a file.

At the end of the carriage, a marking is applied for the edge of the groove for the T-track.

The saw blade is adjusted in height to the thickness of the T-track, and a groove is made in the upper part of the carriage in several passes. Of course, you can also use the DADO adjustable saw blade, but not everyone has it. The T-track bar fits into place very accurately, but it needs to be fixed to the carriage. Holes for the mounting screws are drilled in the bar using a countersink drill.

Then the bar is screwed to the carriage with self-tapping screws. The carriage is ready, it remains to install special clamps in the T-track. You can install several of them, depending on your tasks. Their cost is not very high, but it is also possible to make them yourself by reading a recent article. In it, the master told in detail about the technique of making these devices from hard wood.

So, you can test a new device, the first test will be making a bevel on a sheet of plywood.

The second test is a diagonal double-sided bevel on the workpieces.

As a result, with the help of this simple device, you can cut workpieces at various angles. I thank the author for a simple but useful device for a circular saw! Good mood, good luck, and interesting ideas to everyone! Copyright video can be found here.

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The simplest pushers for a circular saw

Materials. Sheet plywood. Impregnation for wood.

The tools used by the author. Circular saw. Band saw. Orbital sander. Sandpaper. Ruler, pencil.

Manufacturing process So, the author decided to make pushers from sheet plywood. I marked the contours, then cut out the workpiece on the band saw.

Then I processed the edges with an orbital sander. I sanded it with sandpaper by hand, drilled a hole for hanging, and impregnated it with a protective coating. These are the devices that came out. Now it will be safer to work with the circular saw Thanks to the author for a simple but useful tool for the workshop!

Good mood, good luck, and interesting ideas to everyone!

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By filling out the form you agree to the processing of personal data

Become an author of the site, publish your own articles, descriptions of homemade products with payment per text. details here.

Circular saw pusher.

Safety pusher for circular saw

Working safely with a circular saw should always be the first principle when organizing work in a carpentry workshop. The GRR-RIPPER from MicroJig is a pusher designed to keep your fingers safe. The first video shows the official presentation of this device. On rollers at the very bottom of the publication. a way to make a safe device yourself.

There are two key design considerations for this fixture. the center stop and the green dustproof rubber. It clings to the board better than the traditional one. Center stop, which is adjustable and allows you to control the workpiece on both sides of the cut. This is the secret.

As you can see, the center fence moves, which allows it to control the board on both sides of the cut, which prevents it from hitting when it flies out and hits us. Today I will show you how to cut one-fourth of an inch into a piece. This is just a demonstration of the possibilities, and the device works well for large parts too.

It is very easy to learn how to work on this emphasis. There are three settings. The first setting is that it moves left and right. You don’t need a ruler to adjust to 1/4 inch kerf. Move the stop one quarter of an inch, place the pusher on top, and move it closer to the saw. If you understand how this is done, you have already mastered the first principle. When we work with wide boards, nothing else needs to be adjusted.

If we work with narrower workpieces, then the pusher will walk a little. For this we need a second setting. This is a black platform, we will lower it to the level of the table. Thus, it will hold the device in a horizontal plane. If you understand this, then you have mastered the second principle. As you know, not even the fingers are most often injured, namely the torso, when the board is hit and it flies and hits the stomach.

Finally, the third setting of the safety pusher is the so-called pressure comb. On one side there is a ledge, on the other side it is smooth. This pressure plate allows you to control the material from 5-6 possible sides. We will press from the top, from the side, to the parallel stop, from the back. The only direction where the workpiece can fly away is only forward. Of course this will not happen. Let me show you how it’s done.

Let me remind you that we control the workpiece from 2 sides due to the fact that there is a narrow kerf and a wide one. Therefore, we can push the tree on both sides of the cut 10 centimeters from the revolving saw. And since our workpiece is at a distance of 10 centimeters above the saw, we can, while the saw is running, reach out and take a tree.

The following shows how to do this when working with a safety joinery pusher. Namely, how to make 2 narrow ones from a wide bar. To do this, we need to reconfigure the pusher, it will be necessary to unscrew two nuts and lower the horizontal stop. We also need to reconfigure the clamping comb and screw these nuts back. Again, we will control a small workpiece from 5 sides. Continued in the video above. If you want to make the same device with your own hands, then the video below is shown. Used materials from the channel Mikhail Makarevich. A simplified version and somewhat more convenient, here.

DIY circular saw pusher

Hello dear readers and DIYers! When working with woodworking machines, and others, safety should always come first. In this article, John, the author of the YouTube channel “John Heisz. I Build It”, will tell you how he made a pusher for parts when processing them on a circular saw. Materials Maple veneer. PVA glue. Linseed oil.

See also  Which Circular Saw is Better to Choose

The tools used by the author.— Orbital sander Makita BO5031— Battery nayler— Band saw — Clamps — Grinding machine — Milling machine — Radial cutter with thrust bearing — Drum grinder — Rasp, pencil.

Manufacturing process So this is a simple yet very rewarding project. a pusher for a circular saw. The author already had a plywood blank for this project, which greatly accelerated the process.

Now his task is to glue this blank with aesthetic plywood veneer. For finishing work, he uses maple veneer. Marks the workpiece for the first side, and cuts along the contour with the band saw.

Grinds veneer surfaces with an orbital machine. Now marks out the contours of the second workpiece, cuts it out.

The decorative coating sits on the wood glue.

Then he fastens the workpieces together with a nailer. The product is covered with a layer of foam rubber, then with wide planks (this is necessary for better distribution of the pressing force), clamped with clamps and left overnight.

The next day, the author hastily overwrites the workpiece on both sides, and then, on the milling table, the author cuts off the main excess material from the edges.

Then he grinds the pusher on the grinding machines, achieving perfect smoothness.

And then he processes the edges again with a router with a radius cutter. John already has the logo of his workshop printed on a laser printer. To transfer it to the product, he uses a varnish solvent. White spirit, acetone, or gasoline will also work.

The last step is the application of the topcoat. In this case, it is boiled linseed oil. John carefully rubs it in with a small piece of natural fabric. Here is such a signature veneered pusher! Isn’t it lovely?! Thanks to the author for the idea of ​​a simple but useful adaptation for the workshop! Good mood, good luck, and interesting ideas to everyone!

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Circular saw pushers

Published by Alexander on 09/06/2017. Date of publication: Workshop equipment, Workshop accessories.

Two types of pushers, in which situations you cannot do without them, and in which you can saw without pushers.

Below you can watch a short video with a demo. It also shows in what situations the use of pushers is justified, and where you can do without them. But before you watch the video, read what’s behind the scenes.

When they talk about pushers, they first of all mean safety. Often it comes to the point that a circular saw (circular saw) is considered almost the most dangerous tool. But the instrument itself cannot be dangerous, it can only become so in inept and irresponsible hands

How To Make And Use The Worlds Best Push Stick

This topic can be discussed for a long time, so I will briefly outline my view of the source of danger of this tool.

The working part of the saw is a saw blade, like any cutting tool, it must be sharp for good work, then the parts can be sawed with less effort. Further, the disc rotates towards the movement of the material and in the event of a skew of the board, the disc will push the board back, and not cut. In these cases, the long board can fly back, and the short board can be turned out and it will roll over the disk and also fly away. On very small boards, if you push with your hands and the board flies out, then you may not have time to pull your hands away from the disc and get injured. When the machine is well tuned: the rip fence is really parallel, the blade is sharp and the cutting depth is adjusted according to the material, the carpenter feeds the parts smoothly and is not distracted, uses pushers if necessary, it is quite difficult to get injured. There are of course some more factors, but more on that another time.

Artyom Pilosyan

if the handles were perpendicular to the pusher (and not parallel) it would be more convenient, because with a small thickness (less than half of the pusher itself) you still press in the center and it tilts, and with a perpendicular one you can push where you need

Andrey Yarmolkevich

There is such a thing. It is curious to see the approaches of different cultures to carpentry. Americans have a lot of interesting adaptations.

Lloyd christmas

A painfully complicated thing for simple actions. as it seemed to me. And the bourgeoisie made up a lot of interesting things.

Комментарии и мнения владельцев for “Pusher for table circular saw”

Andrey Yarmolkevich

Hello Kirill! For me. better separately. The combi saw is more likely for carpentry, because in “circular” mode there is no tilt of the saw blade and it is not possible to normally adjust the blade overhang above the table. In any case, those drank that I saw. In the meantime, there is no need to worry about it. ”

DIY circular saw pusher drawings

Drawings of pushers for every taste, from small to pressure. Detailed dimensions will make it easy to choose and make yourself. indispensable when working on a circular saw.

I think that you will find on our site a lot of interesting and useful information on optimizing your workplace or ideas for new creations.

We collect and organize ideas for a carpentry workshop from various magazines of a similar focus. Unfortunately, as a rule, these are English-language publications. In the domestic press, the topic of carpentry is covered rather poorly.

Come in, read, subscribe to our groups, offer your ideas. we will definitely publish them!

Well, it became necessary to make pushers. For safety.

First I made a trial one. I sawed with it the blanks for 8 hive-beds Convenient!

DIY Simple Pusher

And today I decided to do something else.

I took a piece of board, drilled holes so that the sawdust flew by and also for visibility. I threw in a mowing line, walked with an electric jigsaw, sawed it into 3 layers on a circular.

I made it so that it would be possible not only to push, but also to pull the board, which is sometimes very convenient.

It seems to have worked out fine. (tried to saw with them)

Painted with graffiti paint.

I made a pusher for my table circular saw based on the following adaptations: GRR-Ripper System

Kirill Kulbyakov

Good day to you, Andrey. Would you use a combination saw on the balcony? Or should the trimming be separate, like the circular?

responses to “DIY circular saw pusher. Improvements

After such improvements, the rest of the developers simply have nothing to do)

Mikhail, as always you are on top. The video is sensible. But I wanted from you to see a review of the DeWALT DW 735 planer, it is cool in its line, and I think that it has no equal, I will repeat it in my line and price category. It was visible in the background when you were working on the circular. My DW734 is also good, but yours is better). Thank you for the video.

The thing may be good But don’t persuade me, I won’t do it myself.))

Michael, thanks, great pusher. Here’s another specific size where to find? If there are sizes somewhere, tell me, or if it’s not difficult, give your.

Just class! Took a note. I will also do it at my leisure. I just don’t see any drawings. Thank you. All the best.

Posh Pusher. added to my ToDo list

Not well, super, 60 dollars is not a small amount of money, but yours is cheap and, in my opinion, more reliable than plastic. Definitely Like.

A wonderful tool! Thank you, Mikhail! Eyes and brains run up: either to do purely carpentry, or to adapt.

Thanks for the video Mikhail! Everything is detailed and clear, the performance is super! I myself thought to repeat such a pusher, now it inspired even more, like!

It seems to me that the handle should be done in the front a little lower than in the back. it will be more convenient to push. Thank you for the video.

can you tell us more about the tape you used? link or?

As for the “sticky sandpaper” (you still couldn’t remember what it is all about :)) This is an anti-slip tape for steps well, there on the porch or in the bathhouse in short, where it is slippery. This is certainly not aluminum oxide as on the abrasive of most sandpaper, but I’ll tell you one more thing! Adhesion, or more correctly, the coefficient of friction with various materials, be healthy. well, if the manufacturer is of course worthwhile. I have it on the steps in the shower, water is constantly pouring on it, at least for her.

There is no place to write down, I’m kidding of course, but the idea is great, thanks

In the last video you showed the technique of sawing blanks without a base. And if the workpieces are large, is there a way to cut them on a circular without a cross-cut carriage?

I did not understand anything in the modifications)) over time to realize. But I feel a good thing.

Dyakuyu, Mikhailo. I think I am so angry for years. Plus to love.

Free pusher files (sketchup and PDF) here: https://1drv.ms/f/s!AslmFBP56EoIiU5H6xBDZ6vwANUM

Hello Mikhail! Cool pusher !! The only question is about the black pressure plate, what is the thickness and from what material. All the best

DIY circular saw pusher. Improvements

This is the part 2 where I’ll be making some accessories for my “base model” pusher. The same accessories you get for the Grr-ripper’s “advanced model”. Sketchup file: https://1drv.ms/u/s!AslmFBP56EoIiU1EEJ8ftJJRC8Qu Part 1 (Making the “base model”) is here: https://goo.gl/5S1Yt2 Mirock’s woodshop (in English): https: // goo.gl / ZXFGu5

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