Drill chuck wrench with my own hands
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Re: An unprecedented upgrade to a drill chuck wrench !
And I tie a duct tape to the wire on the drill and the grinder
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Chuck for a drill: device and types
A significant portion of drill models are equipped with so-called cam devices. This version is a hollow cylindrical body, on the surface of which is a movable part in the form of a ring or regulation sleeve. One cylinder base is clamped onto the drill shaft. A second base is used to clamp the nozzles. The process of turning the adjusting ring causes the movement of the cams, made of metal. Approximation and removal of such cams depends on the orientation of the ring rotation.
In order to fix it on the shaft, the body is equipped with a special handy threaded hole or has a special tapered surface. There are also types of cartridges that are best suited to equip specially designed models of peorator. It is quite possible to remove and change it yourself. In the cam-type drill chucks you can fasten the bit and shank within the standard range of 0.8-10 mm and 1.5-13 mm.
In order to ensure maximum reliability when fastening, it is important that the chuck is tightened by applying a high degree of force. Cam chucks can be:
To tighten or loosen the adjusting ring on a “normal” device, it is necessary to use a special wrench.
Ways of fastening the chucks
In manual drills, two varieties of fixing the drill chuck are used:
Look closely at the metal rod between the shell and the chuck. In the case of the threaded fit, you can usually see the slits for the wrench, and the tapered shaft is always smooth.
The method of attachment is also indicated by the markings stamped on the chuck:
Drill chucks: Variety
If the model of a mini drill or electric screwdriver is equipped with a special type of locking device, it is necessary to use a clamping single-joint element. On a tool without a locking device, a two-coupling element or a mini chuck is used. As a rule, the body of such a device is made of plastic, and steel alloy is used to make the mechanism and cams.
Any option for self-repair work requires knowledge of the device and the main components:
How to Disassemble a Drill Chuck
How to disassemble the drill chuck? This question sooner or later asks everybody.
There are 2 basic methods of disassembling the chuck. the key (as the most used in household and professional appliances).
The method is peoratorial:
- Extend the collets until they are in the chuck.
- Place the insert in the chuck.
- Support the drill with the insert in the pad. shock absorber.
- Turn on the power tool for a couple of seconds. the result will be removed “sleeve” (clutch adjusting).
- Remove the collets. always make a note of their relative spatial positions. The difficulty lies in the fact that when assembling the collets, they must each take their place. If they do not, it is not possible to center the replacement tool.
Necessity in the peorator is that it is calculated under the forces, greater in comparison with a drill.
Disassembly method with hammer:
- The separation of the collets.
- Place the chuck in the vice so that the body passes between the jaws and the collar does not.
- Heat the socket with a local heat source. a construction dryer is optimal.
- A plate is placed on the chuck as a shock absorber.
- The case is knocked out of the adjustment sleeve with a hammer through a plate.
Drill chucks are available as quick-action chucks. The procedure for disassembling them is as follows:
- The socket is undermined and pulled apart at its perimeter using a screwdriver.
- When there is enough space between it and the body, you can remove it with your fingers.
- Open the cams until they are as far apart as they can go.
- Insert pin or bolt into the socket and pound the body out of the bottom of the socket with a light hammer.
- Once these parts have separated from each other, disassembly as a process for lubrication stops. Further action will lead to a loss of structural integrity (assembly at this level is done in a production environment).
How to remove the old cartridge
Chucks that are screwed into the spindle are generally secured by a left-handed screw for extra security. For this reason, the chuck must first be removed by undoing this screw. Before it can be unscrewed, clear a path for it. To do this, the chuck jaws need to be retracted as far back as possible.
If you look inside the socket you can see the screw head for a Phillips head or star screwdriver in the middle of the bottom. To prevent this screw from unscrewing it is made with a left-hand thread. So unscrew it by turning the screwdriver to the right with the unit first clamped in a bench vice.
It is possible that the screw splines have become clogged over the years of use and in order to make them catch the screwdriver bit, it is necessary to turn it and at the same time easily tap on it with a pair of pliers or a hammer until you feel the hook.
After removing the left-hand threaded screw, insert the hex key into the chuck and tighten it.
Clamp the free side of the hexagon in the jaws of the vise and use a suitable wrench to loosen the nut on the drill with which the chuck is attached to the spindle of the tool.
After that, you can release the L-shaped hex from the vice and turning it to the left, completely unscrew the clamping assembly from the spindle shaft.
How to remove the quick-release chuck from a threaded drill
The peculiarity of the connection of the chuck with the shaft is the left-hand thread of the fixing screw. The design ensures that the shaft simultaneously tightens the chuck mount as it rotates the drill bit and “digs” into the material. Consequently, the answer to the question of how to remove the self-clamping chuck from the drill of this type is simple. you need to rotate the chuck, firmly holding the body, in a clockwise direction.
Usually just turning is not enough, you have to tap on the joint, so that the severely tightened threads parted a little and gave the opportunity to freely scroll the connection.
Drill chuck: How to change, dismantle, unscrew
An electric drill is an indispensable tool attribute of both the home handyman and the professional. Without this tool it is difficult to perform any work associated with the production of anything, as well as assembly, disassembly, and so on.
Breakdown of a drill, even a famous brand, after all, at some point, yes happens. And one of the most widespread breakage of this power tool is a failure of a chuck: both key and self-clamping.
Reasons for changing a drill chuck
Sooner or later any part, unit or any mechanism becomes unusable.
In modern drills, such as Makita, Interskol, Bosch and so on the fastening of the drill and other cutting tools, as well as all kinds of nozzles is carried out by the device cam type.
The cam mechanism is a 3 or 4 cams, through them and holds the tool in the drill chuck.
If the device is a quick-clamp, the mechanism is tightened by hand, and if a key-type. with a special wrench.
There are also collet devices, but they are more applicable in manufacturing for metalworking. All kinds of tools needed for the job are clamped in them.
- Run-out during rotation. This indicates worn cams or front bearings on the shaft.
- Turning on the shaft. Caused by damaged threads if the chuck is threaded, or by wear of the tool cone.
Runout is a harmful and unsafe phenomenon, it can be characterized as follows:
- The cutting tool in the drill is not properly held, or any of the accessories.
- Drill bits jamming (if taper is worn).
- The holes are irregularly shaped.
- Wear on drill bit shanks.
How to remove the chuck from an electric drill
The chuck may be attached to the spindle in the following way:
- Tapered mount. When Morse taper (tool taper) is used. In this case, the shaft is tapered, well ground and requires minimal force to fit it. Example of marking: B10, where B. taper symbol, and number 10. diameter of the cutting tool shank. Such fixation is most common in screwdrivers.
- Threaded mount. There are metric and inch threads. If the chuck is marked M13, the thread here is metric, 13 mm. If it is inch. UNF with a diameter of ½ inch.
However, to keep the user 100% safe, the manufacturer of imported drills also fixes a chuck with a screw that serves as a stopper and securely fixes it to the shaft.
The screw has a left-hand thread, and very often, when the drill repair inexperienced people rip off the slot on the screwdriver for ignorance, believing that there is a standard right-hand thread. so unscrew it clockwise.
Knowing the design features of your own drill, removing the chuck does not seem to be a big problem.
To change this item, you need to prepare the following tools:
- Pipe wrench
- Medium sized hammer. Approximately 400-500 gr.
- A caliper. 2 or 3.
- Screwdriver with the right shape and cross section of the blade.
- File personal or velvet.
This list shows the minimum tools required. It is very possible that during the work you will need something else.
The connection is screwed
The procedure for disassembly:
- Unscrew the locking screw counterclockwise.
- Unscrew the chuck in the same direction. If the shaft has grooves, use a wrench to hold it in place.
- If the drill is jammed, you should tap the cams from top to bottom with precise and light hammer blows.
- Install in reverse order.
Having secured the part of the tooling on which the cams are located with a pipe (gas wrench). need to rotate the shaft. The chuck should unscrew easily after such “persistent” intervention.
Joining with a tool cone: Dismantling step by step
This disassembly is done with a hammer and a chisel of non-ferrous metal: brass, bronze, aluminum, copper. But hammers of this type are still found.
The soft metal will not cause damage to the tool in the form of bumps and deformations.
It is necessary to perform the following actions:
- Hold the drill with the handle upwards.
- Delicately tap with a hammer on the backside of the chuck all around its circumference.
- After dismantling the device, you need to grind the cone with a fine emery cloth. Remove large chinks, if any, with a file.
- The new chuck is inserted into its original location and secured by hitting it with a wooden hammer (mallet).
For old drills, made during the Soviet era, apply another way. There is a big enough gap between the tool body and the chuck, and on the shaft there are flats.
Locksmiths, as a rule, did the following:
Of course, this way is not the safest one, taking into account that a wrench can fly off on an unplanned trajectory and injure a locksmith. There is also a kind of drills, where in the body is made a slot in which the wedge is inserted for chuck beating out. Such drills can have two tapers: one in the chuck and one in the drill. These tools are distinguished by their impressive size and weight.
Taper drills are considered to be more precise in responsible drilling because the Morse taper is made with a high degree of precision.
In addition, a conical chuck can be removed with a chuck puller because in every such drill, where there is not even a threaded hole for the retaining screw, there is a through hole.
And if you use a puller with a central stud and put it into this hole, then by securing its mating part with what has hooks in the form of powerful hooks you can also remove the firmly attached chuck.
Bearings can be removed with this puller.
Replacements for Interskol drills
The Interskol drill is very comfortable, has an ergonomic handle. Low price is also a common reason why it is chosen by the customers.
Ways to attach chucks
In handheld drills, two types of drill chuck fastening are used:
- Morse cone. tapered shank of the shaft and the corresponding hole in the chuck.
- Threaded mount. threads on the shaft onto which the cartridge is screwed like a nut.
Look closely at the metal rod between the body and the chuck. In the case of a threaded fit, you can usually see the slits for a wrench, and the tapered shaft is always smooth.
The method of fastening is also indicated by the marking embossed on the chuck:
- Morse taper is indicated by the abbreviation B10, B12, etc. д. (B. taper, number. maximum dimension of the drill bit).
- In the marking of the threaded chuck there is a designation of the type and diameter of thread: M13 (metric to 13 mm) or UNF-1/2 (inch to half-inch).
How to disassemble the chuck
Clamp with a threaded connection is removed taking into account the left-hand thread.
The threaded element is located on the inside of the device, so first the clamping jaws are maximally moved apart, thus providing access to the fixing screw, which can be unscrewed with an ordinary Phillips screwdriver. In drills without this screw, the chuck is twisted off the shaft without the preparatory work described above.
The screw with the left-hand thread, which fixes the threaded chuck, can wear out in the future. To restore reliability of the connection, it is recommended to do the following:
These actions will not result in damage to the fixing assembly of the drill and will allow you to fix the clamping device on it more accurately and reliably.
Changing a screw-in chuck can be done with a 14 mm open-end wrench. In order to avoid making mistakes, it is recommended to read the theoretical material and watch the corresponding video.
To replace a worn chuck, the old chuck is removed from the drill and the new chuck is fitted. Both manual and mini-drills are fitted with a threaded chuck with a tapered connection.
When replacing on threaded drills, it is important to take into account the markings that have this appearance:
The interval 1.5-13 indicates the minimum and maximum diameters of the cutting tool. The new clamping device must have identical markings to the previous one.
What to do if the faces of the cartridge fixing screw are slipping?
What to do if the faces of the screw head inside the chuck are slipping? It is a very common problem, but very real to solve. First let’s look at the reasons why a screw has slipping edges:
- Without reading the instructions, the owner tries to unscrew the screw in a counterclockwise direction. If there is a screw inside, it should be turned clockwise to unscrew it, that is, vice versa
- The wrong tool, that is, using a screwdriver with slits that slip the faces of the screw. The screwdriver should be selected as properly as possible before use
- Poor quality screw. It is common on cheap Chinese products
However, if the edges of the screw are slipped off, there is no hurry to change the tool. There are different ways to unscrew it:
- If the screw head is Phillips shaped, but the facets are flattened, you can use a flathead screwdriver. The manufacturers have provided a probability of slipping faces, so you can unscrew the screw, not only with a Phillips screwdriver, but also with a slotted screwdriver. This method usually solves the problem
- Use a blowgun to try to clean the dirt inside the flats of the flat bar. There is often a large amount of dirt accumulated at the flat bar that prevents a good assembly with the screw
- Hold the screwdriver against the head of the screw and apply light, but sharp strokes. The screwdriver will go deeper into the head of the cartridge screw, making it more likely to unscrew it
- Cut off a piece of rubber, and placing it over the flat, try to catch the remaining facets with a screwdriver, and unscrew
- If all methods are tried, then the only option is to either dismantle the electric screwdriver or drill, followed by replacement of the actuator with the shaft from the gearbox or angle grinder cut chuck. Once the screw head is accessible, it can be unscrewed using a manual vice. The chuck must be replaced after this method
At the same time there is no need to replace the entire tool at all.
Main types of drill chucks
Drill clamps are divided into two basic types according to their design:
- Tooth-ring chuck, in which the tool shank is clamped using a special key;
- The fast-action drill chuck (QAC), in which the clamping sleeve is actuated by its manual rotation.
Clamping cam chucks, installed on modern drills, allow you to reliably fix the tool, the shank diameter of which is in the range of 1-25 mm. Devices of this type are practically devoid of disadvantages, the most significant of which is their rather high cost.
The most popular type of clamping device installed on modern models of drills is the quick-clamping chuck (HCC). It only takes a few seconds to clamp a tool in a four-way clamping chuck, no wrench is needed. Tool shank clamping is achieved by manual rotation of the adjusting sleeve, the outer surface of which is corrugated for easy performance of this procedure. In order to regulate the mechanical impact created on the tool shank, this clamp type has a special locking device.
To fix the drill bit, the lower sleeve is held in place with one hand and the upper sleeve is tightened in a clockwise direction with the other
The most significant disadvantage of the drill shank assembly is that it is not sufficiently reliable in holding the drill shank of large-diameter drills when the elements of the mechanism wear. This causes the tool to rotate in the process.
Compared to the clamping devices of the BZP category, the gear-type chuck to equip a drill ensures a secure clamping of the tool in any situation. Users who have to work frequently with electric drills, give preference to clamping chucks of this type. The only big disadvantage of these devices is that it is quite easy to lose the wrench that powers them. Meanwhile, the occurrence of such a problem can be easily avoided if, immediately after the purchase of a drill, you fix the key on the wire of the device with insulating tape or an ordinary rope.
The diameter of the shank of the bit to be clamped in the mini drill chuck depends on the caliber of the collet
The mini drill chuck, which is mounted on compact drilling devices, is also very popular. The latter are actively used by craftsmen in jewelry making. Mini chucks belong to the category of quick-action chucks for electric screwdriver or light drill. Such a small chuck, mostly made of brass, is used for clamping tools with a shank diameter between 0.1 and 4.5 mm.
Design and features of toothed chuck
A classic drill chuck refers to the clamping devices of the collet or jaw type. Not only can they clamp various tools with a round shank, but also cylindrical workpieces for further processing. The main elements of the design of clamping cam chucks are:
- barrel with cylindrical shape;
- Adjustment ring or sleeve rotating on the outside of the housing;
- Cam or collet mechanism installed in the inner part of the tool body.
The design of a cam (toothed-ring) chuck with a key
The collet mechanism, whose elements are made of hardened steel, consists of three absolutely identical cams that move together simultaneously when the adjustment ring or the thermowell is turned, thus ensuring secure fixture of the tool shank. In the early mechanical drill chucks, the collet was moved by turning an adjusting wheel, now it is moved by an adjusting sleeve.
One side of the drill chucks are installed on the shaft of the used equipment, and with the other side the tool is inserted into them, with which the machining will be performed. Jaw chucks are mainly used for fixing the following tools in them:
The cam drill chuck is designed to clamp accessories with a cylindrical or hexagonal shank
How to remove a chuck with a threaded connection
The question of how to remove the chuck from the drill, which is fixed on it by means of a threaded connection, arises quite often among home masters. To remove such a chuck, take into account the fact that it is installed with a non-standard left-hand thread.
The threaded element of the clamping device is in its inner part, so you must first maximally expand the clamping cams, which will provide access to the fixing screw, which is unscrewed with an ordinary Phillips screwdriver. In drills without such a screw, the chuck is simply twisted from their shaft without performing the above-mentioned preparatory work.
The head of the fixing screw can be a Phillips head, a straight head, a hexagon head or even a star head
The left-handed screw that secures the screwdriver chuck to the drill can wear out over time. To restore the reliability of such a connection, you can perform the following actions:
Such actions will not damage the fixing assembly of the drill, but will allow you to fix the clamping device on it more accurately and reliably.
Changing the threaded chuck on the drill can also be done with a wrench for 14, which greatly facilitates the process. To avoid mistakes when you are going to dismantle a chuck of this type, you can first get acquainted with the theoretical material on the subject and watch the appropriate video.
Repair of the drill chuck with your own hands
In detail: repair of a fast-action drill chuck with their own hands from a real master for the site olenord.com.
In the household, the most in-demand tool is an electric drill. Electric drills, called peorators, have recently become very popular. This tool allows not only to drill a hole, but also with the use of nozzles to screw nuts, self-tapping screws, screws. An electric drill is a reliable tool and rarely, but fails. How to troubleshoot an electric drill. The main faults in electric drills are divided into mechanical and electrical.
To the frequently occurring mechanical faults can include the failure of the clamping chuck. And how to remove the chuck from an electric screwdriver and replace it? Immediately note that the replacement of the chuck on an electric drill, an electric screwdriver, peorator absolutely the same. The cause of the chuck failure is most often in the wear of the clamping jaws. This is the most serious fault of an electric drill. Without a complete replacement of the chuck can not do. And how to remove the chuck from the drill will show the video.
By the way! The following method of chuck replacement is suitable for all modern models of not only electric drills but also torches, screwdrivers, because all the given designs provide exactly this way of chuck fastening.
But, in Soviet-made drills, the chuck is held on the Morse cone and screwed on with a screw. And how to remove the chuck from its cone?? For this purpose, you can use a puller for bearings or knock it down with a hammer.
Warning! When you buy a new power tool with a chuck, be sure to remove the chuck and carefully lubricate all mating parts and threads.
N8vfY1. Procedure for replacing the cam chuck of an electric drill To disassemble the electric drill, check the disconnection of its cable from the mains. With a special wrench, expand the jaws of the chuck to the maximum possible position. If you look inside the opened chuck, most often you will see the screw designed to secure the cam chuck to the motor shaft. It can normally be unscrewed with a Phillips screwdriver. Remember! The thread of the retaining screw is left-handed and can be removed by turning the screwdriver clockwise. Unscrew the screw, insert the L-key in place of the drill in the chuck and clamp it.
If the screw has a chipped head and you can’t use a screwdriver to remove it, proceed like this. Take a second drill, put a drill bit the diameter of the head of the screw in it and start drilling out the screw. You will end up removing the screw when you drill it out.
Insert the open-end wrench on the motor shaft at the base of the chuck. There are models where the clearance between the chuck and the housing is very small. You will have to pick up a wrench or saw to the thickness. A spanner is needed to secure the motor shaft. Earlier models have no keyholes in the shaft. In this case you need to disassemble the body of the drill, remove one cover. Clamp the power pinion of the chuck shaft and the cooling fan at the same time and with a sudden counterclockwise movement try to unscrew the chuck.
But back to the wrench version. Now, after placing the drill on a wooden flat surface and fixing the shaft with the wrench, strike the projecting tail of the hex key with a wooden or rubber mallet counterclockwise. The chuck is screwed onto the shaft. Rotate the chuck counter-clockwise and remove it from the drill. If you do not have an L-type hex key, you can use a drill bit with a suitable diameter that fits into one of the three holes for the wrench.
Examine the chuck. If the cams are completely out of order, replace the chuck on the drill with a new one. Install a new chuck on the drill, performing all operations in reverse order. Remember! Always lubricate all moving parts when refitting a new chuck. this applies particularly to threaded connections.
This is the case when it is necessary to replace the cam chuck. But power tools are also available with quick-change chucks.
Quick-action chucks allow you to change the drill in seconds without using any additional tools or fixtures. Quick-action chucks are divided into a one sleeve and a two sleeve chuck. The 1-jaw chuck design has a special mechanism that locks the shaft during tool changes. The change operation can be done with one hand. With a double-clamping chuck, you can change the tool with both hands. One hand holds the first socket and the other hand twists the other socket. But quick-clamp designs do not securely hold the tool, especially in impact mode. And the use of plastic to make them often leads to cartridge breakage. The cam chuck is more reliable, and the parts used in it are made only of metal. To fix the tool it is necessary to use a special jig wrench.
The chuck is screwed onto the axis and secured with the clamping screw. Quick-action chuck is removed according to the same algorithm as the cam chuck. First unscrew the locking screw clockwise. If you have key flats on a shaft near the chuck, put the key in the grooves, pinch the chuck in any lever and try to unscrew the chuck by rotating it counterclockwise. Install the new chuck in reverse order.
But the chuck can also be repaired In order to inspect the parts of the chuck it must be disassembled. Here is the proven and reliable way of dismantling an electric drill chuck.
Take the usual torch, remove the duster from it and insert the adapter. An adapter can be made from a defective impact drill. The adapter is a drill shank with a cut drill bit. Put the chuck on the adapter shaft and press it with a rubber damper or a wooden board. Before you place the chuck on the adapter, you must drive the jaws into the chuck until they are fully seated.
After assembling the tool, operate the drill in impact mode. In 35 seconds the chuck should work out. Immediately mark the cams and their locations with different colors. Now you can examine and inspect the chuck. If necessary, the cams can be replaced with new ones. True, without the additional boring of cams on the lathe will not do. The other parts can be easily replaced if available.