Hacksaw For Which Side Of The Teeth

Kinds of hacksaws
Hacksaws are divided into electric and manual.
Hand hacksaws are universal, they can be used in the forest, and in the country, and at home. Wherever there is no power source. Such hacksaws are inexpensive and weigh a little.

Electric hacksaws are a much more serious tool in terms of functionality and cost. Such hacksaws are capable of sawing not only wood and metal, but also hard materials of artificial origin. From plastics to ceramics. Of course, such a hacksaw requires connecting to a power outlet, otherwise it can only be done in the country or at home. Plus, such hacksaws weigh an order of magnitude more than manual ones, since they are equipped with a powerful engine that allows you to perform complex work in a short time.

The choice of the type of hacksaw is entirely up to you. Only you decide what kind of work the hacksaw will have to do. If you will use a hacksaw occasionally and only in nature, the manual option is quite suitable for you. If you are planning to build an outdoor shower stall or barn, make an apartment renovation or clad a cottage with a clapboard, you better choose an electric hacksaw. It saves energy immensely.
Hacksaw
The hacksaw is also divided according to the type of material being cut into hacksaws for metal and hacksaws for wood. You can work with a wood hacksaw with a laminate, particleboard, boards and logs. If you need to lay a wooden floor and install skirting boards, prepare firewood at the dacha or repair furniture, a hand saw is an indispensable tool for you.
Such a hacksaw can have a blade with teeth of three sizes: small, medium and large, and the number of teeth per inch is determined by the size.
Small wooden parts are sawed with a hacksaw with a tooth pitch of 2-2.5 millimeters. Medium-sized wooden products are sawn using a hacksaw with a tooth pitch of 3-3.5 millimeters.
Thick logs and bars are sawed using a hacksaw with large teeth and a pitch of 4-8 millimeters.
When choosing a hacksaw, consider how the cutting teeth are located on the blade. They are straight, use a hacksaw for cross cutting. If you need to saw boards in the direction along, you need to use a hacksaw with teeth tilted forward.
By the way, a hacksaw for cutting wood is different from a hacksaw for cutting metal. The hacksaw for metal has a serrated thin blade as a working part, and work with the hacksaw is carried out using both hands.
The hacksaw blade can be made of various materials. Here, again, it is up to you to choose only, depending on which metal alloys you will be sawing. Saw particularly hard alloys with a composite frame, which has a long service life. If you will be sawing in hard-to-reach places or small parts, you must use a hacksaw with adjustable angle or with a hacksaw with a shortened frame.
As the web wears out, it must be disconnected from the frame and replaced.
A hacksaw for metal does an excellent job of cutting ceramics, plastic and wood, therefore it considers it more universal. However, remember that such hacksaws are more expensive than hacksaws for cutting wood, and the price depends on the quality of the material of the handle and blade.

Hacksaw For Which Side Of The Teeth

Hacksaw sharpening

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First things first, you need to align the hacksaw’s teeth in height. For this purpose, any file will do, better smaller. We put it on top of the teeth and spend several times, visually checking the tips of the teeth. If the tip of at least one tooth turned out to be untouched, it means that it is lower than the others and the operation will have to be repeated until the file leaves its mark on its tip. All other teeth will be sawn to its level.

I use a specially made wooden block for this operation, with a file cut out in it. It’s more convenient to work and you don’t run the risk of injuring your hands on the sharp teeth of a hacksaw.

Next, you need to carefully examine the teeth and determine the need for sawing the blade between them. The fact is that after several sharpenings with a file, the tooth becomes shorter, and it should be the same in height with all the others. If cuts are necessary, you need to clamp the hacksaw blade in a vise so that the teeth are exposed to a certain height. Now use a hacksaw to cut the blade between the teeth until it touches the jaws of the vice. Optimally, the tooth in height should be one and a half times larger than in width at the base.
Clamping the canvas in a vise, use a simple template to expose all the teeth to the same height. After all, the width of the jaws of the vice is small, and you can’t pinch the entire canvas in one go. We have to do this in sections, and this is where the template comes in handy. And if the canvas of the sharpened hacksaw is hard, you will have to stock up on several metal sheets.

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After the teeth of the hacksaw are aligned in height and sawn, it is necessary to check and level the wiring. If there is none on the hacksaw, it will constantly jam in the cut, it will be very difficult to saw. After all, the width of the cut will be the same as the thickness of the blade. Therefore, teeth with the correct bite saw through a slightly wider cut in the tree than the thickness of the blade, so that the hacksaw does not wedge and it walks freely in the cut.
The wiring is done by simply bending the teeth to the side, but if you just do this with pliers, you will never get the same bend for all the teeth. As a result, more protruding teeth will tear the wood, the cut will be sloppy. Such a cut is suitable only for sawing firewood, but not for carpentry.

It’s easy to make the wiring tool yourself. Saw a groove of a certain width in a metal bar with a thickness of 2-3 mm with a hacksaw and drill a couple of holes for fixing the limiter. By turning the sector in one direction or another, you can adjust the angle of limb of the tooth. It is enough to make such an adjustment once, at the next sharpening there is no longer any need to make it.
It is clear that each tooth must be bent in the direction opposite to that in which the previous tooth was bent.

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Well, here, the teeth are aligned, sawn and divorced. It remains only to sharpen them directly. Do not clamp the hacksaw blade in a vise to do this job. The hacksaw will “ring”, which prevents the file from engaging with it and it will just slide. And it’s inconvenient to cut from the bottom up, constantly looking to assess the quality of sharpening.
It is more convenient to fix the canvas on the edge of the workbench with clamps. Place a plank under the canvas so that the hacksaw handle does not touch the surface of the workbench. You need to work with a file from the hacksaw blade to the tip of the tooth, for this you have to go over the edge of the workbench. It is necessary to sharpen in rows, that is, having determined the angle of sharpening, go along one side of all the teeth, and then. On the other. Next, turn the hacksaw, secure and also grind the second half of the teeth in two passes.
When sharpening, we take care not to grind the excess, otherwise the tooth will be shorter than the others. This will certainly affect the quality of the cut.

That’s all, spent half an hour sharpening more than pay for itself in the future, when you evaluate both the ease of work and the quality of the cut. By the way, if you bought a new hacksaw, this does not mean that it is bred and sharpened as it should. Buy also a file in addition to a hacksaw, deal with it immediately after purchase.
And another tip after that: do not buy trihedral files for sharpening a hacksaw for the future. You don’t have to sharpen every day, and a pre-purchased file is usually stored somewhere and slowly rusts. And when needed. He is no longer fit.