How to assemble a tiller on a single axle tractor

Necessity and rules of sharpening during operation

The working surface of the blade will inevitably wear out during the work of the tiller. The tool should be periodically sharpened to restore its cutting ability. The timing of the procedure is purely individual. The rate of wear of the knife depends on the following moments:

  • The intensity of use of the power tiller;
  • The hardness of the processed soil;
  • The presence of plant roots or stones in the ground;
  • durability of the blades material.

Manufacturers of agricultural machinery supply cutters already with sharp blades. That is why it does not make sense to sharpen the blades when buying a power tiller. However, this procedure cannot be avoided if the unit is used intensively. To restore the sharpness of the blade an angle grinder (angle grinder or “angle grinder”), a sharpening or diamond wheel 12.5 cm in diameter will be needed.

Grind working edges at a 45° angle. Grind metal from the side of the sharpening edge. Do not get carried away in this operation: a sharpening of 1-2 mm is sufficient. It may be necessary to restore the cutting ability of the cutter several times over the season, and excessive metal removal reduces the strength of the blade.

When using the cutter in wet ground, the surface of the blades must be thoroughly cleaned. Friction with the ground clears the metal surface of the oxide film and becomes chemically active. This process is accompanied by increased corrosion, resulting in pitting, chipping, and microcracking. To prevent such phenomena, the blades should be treated with special inhibitors or car oil.

How to assemble cutters on a single axle chisel tractor

There are 3 components to quality hardware treatments:

How to Assemble Power Tiller || Modal WM1000N

Professionalism and skills of the craftsman;The machine itself;And, of course, burs and cutters.If one of these components is missing or does not have the desired quality, the result will not be able to please us.

There have been a lot of questions lately about drills and the rules for selecting them. I hope this series of articles about drills and cutters will help you make the necessary purchases with ease and enjoy your work.

Let’s begin with the types of drills and cutters, what functions they perform and what should guide you when buying so that you don’t waste your money.Cutters come in:

Diamond;-Carbide (steel);-Corundum;-Disposable sanding caps;-Felt or silicone polishers;-Polymer sanders;-Ceramic.

How does a quality burr look like, and who makes it??

Today the market offers us a wide variety of products.

Professional drills and cutters are no exception. How not to drown in this ocean of choice? From experience I was able to establish a few parameters that guide me in the purchase of new items for my office.1. The manufacturerThe Germans are as pedantic as always. German-made drill bits always impress with their excellent quality, long life, and corrosion resistance, but often disappoint with their high price. I want to note that some bits for Podiatrists are made only in Germany and cannot be found among the counterparts of other manufacturers.

Chinese burs. The prolific (in every sense) Chinese are throwing a lot of products on the market, and cutters are no exception. Are very inexpensive compared to other manufacturers and of similarly low quality. The only thing that I managed to do well was the reversible cutters for the correction of artificial nails. By the way, they forgot to mention that their own low-powered Chinese cutters are not compatible with those massive enough. So the combination of a Chinese machine with a Chinese drill creates a torture chamber in your working environment. All other burs and cutters are frankly miserable, in active use do not last even two weeks. They rust and break down very quickly. They don’t give you a quality finish either. Chinese burs do not always “fit” into the machine’s handle (they are calibrated so well), and sometimes have insufficient length and simply fall through the machine’s handle up to the working part.

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A large part of the market is taken by Ukrainian, Russian and Belarusian-made chisels. The quality of these bits is average to above average. It’s possible to work with them, they are quite comfortable, but the durability, even of one manufacturer but on different cutters will be different. Good burs, in terms of price/quality ratio, I was looking for by experiment. One thing I can say for sure is that Russian manufacturers are not yet able to make corundum bits and can give you a solid “4” for diamond bits.

Korean-made drills and cutters, in principle, are the best option in the price/quality ratio. In contrast to domestic manufacturers, they learned to make pretty good corundum bits.

If you are planning to buy with a relatively small budget, “diamonds”, “carbide”, bases and caps can safely take domestic or Korean, and corundum bits are better to take Korean or German. If we talk about “special” cutters, the Germans have no equals here, it is better to pay dearly once, but these costs will be justified.

Manicure (Simwnt) 2. DurabilityTo serve you for a long time, your burrs need to be good quality to begin with. The grit size of the diamond should be clear, if you see no grain, but more or less smoothed surface, it means the diamond is not natural and will serve twice as little. Diamond decent quality has all manufacturers except “Chinese” (their abrasive, in fact, and abrasive is difficult to call, which means that after passing the drill a few times on the same place, we almost never see the result).3. Resistant to cleaning and sterilizationA good burr must withstand multiple cleanings in decontamination solutions.sterilization without rusting. Leading manufacturers in these qualities are Germany and Korea. Chisels made in Ukraine, Russia and Belarus are quite capricious in this matter. You should forget about the timer a couple of times and overdo the bur in the decontamination.If you use a drill with a microfluidic solution, you will immediately notice a red stain, which is disgraceful on the base of the drill. China in this respect beats all records and rust shows up after the first treatment boron, no matter how well you did not watch the time and concentration of dis.solution. In general, in order for burs to last a long time, you need to be careful about exposure time and solution concentration. Each solution has a different time and concentration. this information is kindly provided to you by the manufacturer in the instructions for the preparation.4. Choice of burrs Abrasivity The abrasivity of drills is different and depends on the area and material you are going to work. As a rule, this parameter is indicated by one or two stripes of the corresponding color applied to the core of the bur. You will not see such stripes only on “Chinese”.P.S. To summarize, here’s who’s got what burs to take from whom:

Diamond. made in Russia, Korea and Germany;

Carbide (steel). Germany, Korea, domestic; if China, only reversible;

assemble, tiller, single, axle, tractor

Bases disposable sandpaper caps. Germany, Korea;

You can safely get felt or silicone polishers from any manufacturer;

Factory goosefoot cutters

Not so long ago, power tillers, which have been called “goosefoots,” began to be used for power tillers. They are well-proven, used mostly for hard and tough soils. Exactly such cutters are used when it is necessary to carry out cultivation in difficult conditions, on stony soils. The construction of “goose legs” is made solid, which provides the highest indicators of durability of the equipment. Cutters are available in standard sizes:

  • the width of the knives is 41 cm;
  • The length of the blades is 38 cm;
  • The height of the design is 38 cm;
  • Its weight is 16 kg;
  • allowable work speed of riders with such blades is 2-5 km / h.

What are the advantages of gooseneck tillers, is it possible to install it by yourself?? It is convenient for tillage, weed control. Other models can not do the job better. For stony and hard soils, the goosefoot blades are indispensable. Another great advantage is that they are made with a steel that can be welded. If necessary you can do the repair work at home, instead of buying new blades, because it is expensive.

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The cutter of this type has disadvantages as well. The main disadvantage is that ordinary carbon steel is used for manufacturing. The strength of the construction itself is high, but the material is somewhat inferior to other varieties. This cutter should be regularly inspected when working on clay soils, when cultivating virgin land. Cutter blades can be bent or simply broken. However, the repair is not too difficult, for a broken knife, a welding machine is usually used, after which the place of the break is carefully polished.

When assembling the scheme, two people should work together, since the weight of the structure is considerable. It is important not to mix up the direction of the blades on the axle. When reassembling, the sharpening should face the side of the cultivated ground. To strengthen the cutter, a stopper is used, it is placed on the output axis.

Maintenance and operation

The following conditions apply to the Shtenli 500:

  • fuel in the tank sufficient, oil in the oil tanks;
  • flat surface for running;
  • smooth shifting;
  • no leaning forward when working with cutters;
  • the soil must be prepared (untreated soil must be worked in three passes);
  • No large rocks or branches in the ground.

When servicing a Stenley 500 power tiller:

  • Check fuel, oil level (type of oil on request). synthetic, semi-synthetic, high viscosity, in gearbox. gearbox for 4-stroke engines);
  • clean engine housing and grill of dirt;
  • check condition of drive belt, clutch cables, spark plugs, all filters (replace, clean. on request);
  • check the screws before each start-up;
  • work with gloves, use earplugs to reduce noise and vibration;
  • Perform annual engine maintenance.

It is forbidden to operate a single-axle tractor in the following cases:

  • When the slope of the soil is more than 15 degrees;
  • in the rain;
  • if the power of the motor unit does not match the degree of hardness of the ground;
  • With poor fuel quality or unsuitable oil.

Deep tillage

When new areas are developed, the virgin soil has to be ploughed. It is usually heavily overgrown with turf, perennial grasses, and weeds. Such areas are difficult to handle with conventional tools. Cultivation with deep turning is used more often. When reversing ploughing undercuts part of the layer, lifts it up and turns it around its own axis. As a result the soil from the lower layer is turned up. Weeds cannot grow for a certain period of time. Cultivated plants get a head start.

This kind of work is done in autumn. Rhizomes of nettles, creeping couch grass, dandelion and other weeds freeze in November-December, when air temperature is below freezing.15.17 ⁰ C (no permanent snow cover yet). Later they lose their ability to grow.

In the future, this method is resorted to every autumn. After 24 years of fall fall plowing, the number of weeds on the property is reduced many times.

Proponents of organic agriculture do not agree with this approach. But the experience of several centuries proves that only such agro-technical measures can achieve the clearing of the territory from weeds. Otherwise you have to use chemicals to fight weeds.

  • wrap the soil layer and allow the plants to use for nutrition substances that gradually shift to the lower horizons during the season. Such an operation allows to reduce the salinity of soil with mineral fertilizers, and reduce the amount of fertilizers applied;
  • aeration of lower soil layers promotes aerobic decomposition of plant residues. Usually in the lower layers the access of oxygen to the air is limited. Therefore conditions are created, when decomposition of roots of rod type is prolonged for several years. Anaerobic processes (without air access) occur with slow accumulation of humus;
  • When the layer is turned over, the weed seeds end up in the lower layers of the soil, and they cannot germinate. The roots left on the surface freeze up. The result is a dramatic reduction in soil clogging;
  • Frozen clods of soil in winter crumble more easily in spring. A light, loose surface layer is formed, in which cultivated plants can receive more abundant nutrition;
  • Introducing organic matter before plowing allows for active decomposition of manure or green manure, if they were sown after the harvest of the main cultivated crops.
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Assembly of an active tiller for a power tiller or mini-tractor

The active tillers for Catmann water-cooled diesel tractors and mini-tractors, as well as for mini tractors based on single-rower blocks, are delivered in a disassembled condition, unless otherwise agreed upon in advance.

A person who is not familiar with the assembly of the cutter is difficult to quickly understand the assembly. It takes approx. 45 minutes to assemble the tiller and we offer a guide on how to do it:

The first assembly step is the insertion of the blades in the appropriate mounts on the hub. Place hubs with hub sleeves facing each other, position blades in such a way that when rotating blade would burrow into the soil with its sharpened side.

First set the blade that is closest to the duster (which is installed on the gearbox). The sharpened part of the blade should be turned towards the milling cutter motion, and its curved part should be turned towards the gearbox.

Next, install the hubs with blades on the gearbox. On the hub, next to the dust cap there is a fixing bolt that must align with the hole on the spline shaft of the gearbox.

The studs additionally secure the hubs to the gearbox shaft. Assembly of the protective cover: On the protective cover install and screw on the foot protection in the form of a mudguard. We bolt the fixing beam to the shroud.

Put a cowl on the gearbox and fasten it with bolts.

An inseparable part of the tiller is a wheel (in the case of power tillers) with which the depth of cultivation is adjusted and a seat-adapter is attached (if provided). Wheel fork (for power tillers) is installed on the fixing beam of the machine, with the handle for adjusting the wheel height installed on top of the fork.

This is another one of the most popular modifications of small agricultural machinery, produced by the company “Stanley. Technical parameters of this agrarian machine are given below:

  • Type. single axle tractor “Shtinley-1030.
  • Depth/width of tillage. 300/900 mm.
  • Cutter rotation. forward direction.
  • Power plant. a four-stroke gasoline engine with one cylinder.
  • Power. 8,5 hp.
  • Gearbox. toothed type.
  • Front/rear gears. 2/1.
  • Shift gearbox. mechanical stepping block with reverse.

How to properly assemble the cutters on a single axle tractor?

Assembly of the cutter can cause some difficulties, especially if you do it for the first time and by yourself.

To begin with, you should be familiar with the structure of the cutter.

The drawing below indicates its main constituent elements:

  • rotor axle (comes in different lengths, can be one-piece or split);
  • pin with a locking device;
  • blades (right and left);
  • elements for mounting the structure (nuts, washers and bolts).

Also, do not forget to take into account the fact that the movement of the blades during work is directed counterclockwise. Be careful when assembling the module. any deviation in the design will lead to the fact that the axle will be out of balance, the unit will be skidded sideways when working.

We also suggest reading the video, which explains in detail the process of assembling the cutter to the power tiller:


These models have appeared on the market relatively recently. The Active tillage tines are ideal for cultivating any type of stubble soils and are also highly suited for use in hard and rugged terrain.

  • Continuous design, which ensures high accuracy of work
  • The equipment is good at fighting weeds;
  • easy to use, parts can be replaced at home.
assemble, tiller, single, axle, tractor

Such models, in contrast to saber milling machines, are made of carbon steel, which is a little bit stronger.