How to Calculate the Right Angle For Trimming
Owners of country houses and individual houses outside the city limits sometimes have a problem with how to make an extension to the house. Either the family has grown, or the spaciousness has wanted, or for some other reason. From an engineering point of view, the most reasonable solution in this case is not to build another separate house, but to make an extension to the existing one. It is here that the communications are brought up, and the layout of the site will not require changes. In this case, builders must solve a very important task: how to dock the roof of the extension and the house. In this case, one wall will be common, the rest will have to be completed. The organization of the passage between the old and new parts of the house allows us to consider the extension precisely as the added area. This will be discussed in our review.
House with annex
Types of extensions. Why functionality is important
The extension, depending on the desire of the owners, has various functions. It can be a summer terrace or kitchen, an additional warm room, a workshop or a garage. Some serve as the lobby for the main house or have their own separate entrance. It can be located on the side of the main facade, from any end, or be attached to the rear wall. And in height, it is usually lower than the main house.
The power frame at the extension is independent of the main building. And even the adjacent walls can be separate. A rigid attachment of the extension to the house is optional. But the junction of the two buildings must be closed on top of the flow of rainwater. To do this, they combine the roof of the extension with the main house.
The task of joining the roof of the extension with the main house has many solutions that depend on the shape and design of the main coating.
Various options are possible. Roofs are single, double and tri-pitched. There are more exotic situations, but they will not be considered here.
Shed roof of an extension to the house
If the roof of the extension is shed, this is the simplest option. It should adjoin the wall of the main house. And its roof is slightly higher, and has no effect on design decisions. It is only important to show an artistic taste and preserve the unity of the architectural style in the combination of the house and the extension.
The roof surface is one plane. It has a slight slope down from the wall of the main house to the outside. The constructive basis is a set of rafters. Beams going from the wall of the main house to the extension wall farthest from it. The upper ends of the rafters are laid on a special horizontal beam attached to the wall of the house. The lower ends of the rafters are fixed on the beam of the new extension wall.
DIY Shed Roof
In this case, the shed roof of the extension adjoins the wall of the house. The coating material of the new building should be laid close to the wall of the house. Between it and the wall you need to lay a seal, which for a greater effect, coat with sealant or clay. A more technological option using a special wall profile. Together with it, the sealant and special sealant are sold in the kit. If the wall of the main house is concrete or brick, then the upper edge of the profile must be recessed into a specially grooved groove.
The roof of the extension must have a ramp out. This is necessary for the runoff of water in the summer, and for the sliding of snow in the winter.
A lath is laid across the rafters across the entire width of the roof. A set of rails smaller in cross-section than the rafters. The frequency of laying the lathing is determined by the roof covering material. The size of the tiles, slate sheets or roofing iron sheets.
Docking of the roof of the extension with the roof of the house
There is a constructive option when the roof of the extension starts from the lower edge of the roof of the main house.
The adjoining roof of the extension to the house
This is an easy option. Both roofs have different slope steepness, the roof of the main house is steeper. Sheets or roof tiles of the extension building must be brought under the overhang of the roof of the main house. At the same time, the use of a wall profile with a seal does not hinder. This will protect the joint from leakage.
Outbuilding with a gable roof
The gable roof consists of two flat quadrangles, which are connected at the top with the ridge BAL-KO and separated at the bottom.
Installation of the roof of the extension
With one edge, these rectangles are attached to the wall of the main house, the lower edge rests on the walls of the extension. The basis of the rectangles are the rafters. At the top of the rafters of two planes are connected with the ridge BAL-KO, with the lower ends they abut against the walls of the extension. There is a crate along the rafters, roofing material is laid on it.
How to attach the roof of the extension to the house
The roof of the extension is attached to the wall of the main house through the rafters closest to it. The contiguous fishing line is compacted in the same way as in the case of a shed roof. Since the boundary of the roof is inclined, the risk of leaks in this case is much lower than in the case of a shed roof. But all the same, the joint seal should be taken seriously.
Three-pitched roof of an extension to the house
A three-pitched roof is formed of three planes. One of them is an inclined triangle, the other two planes are formed either by trapezoids or by triangles.
The three-slope form is a tribute to the architectural imagination of the builder; it does not bring practical benefit. The lower edges rest on the walls of the extension. A ridge beam passes from above. The assembly technology resembles the assembly of a gable roof.
Docking the roof to the house
Three-pitched roof adjoins the house on two fishing lines. Docking requirements are the same as in previous designs.
Sloping house annexe
The roof of the extension can have two, three or more slopes. The multi-slope design in colloquial speech is also called a sloping roof, and sometimes a hipped roof.
How to make a roof attached to the house
If an extension with a multi-pitch roof is built with your own hands, then the design of the extension itself will be appropriate. Each kink of the roof surface will go along its rafter beam. The lower end of this beam rests on a pole. Between the pillars, annex walls are created.
The technology for docking the extension roof with the wall of the house, in principle, does not depend on the number of slopes. The most important task in this case is to protect the junction of the roof with the wall of the house from leaks. The most dangerous part in this sense is the horizontal. But in a multi-pitched roof, it may not exist at all, only inclined joints. They are less prone to leaks. But still, it is desirable to use a special profile with a waterproof sealing gasket.
The roof structure differs from the gable roof in that there is no ridge beam. The surfaces forming the roof have the shape of triangles, their vertices converge at one point. The sides of adjacent triangles are connected. Their docking should be closed from above with a corner that protects against leaks of rainwater.
Roof adjoining the house
The extreme sides of the extreme triangles are adjacent to the wall of the main house. The requirements for the organization of adjacency are the same as for other types.
Docking the roof of the outbuilding with the roof of the house
There is a situation when the roof of the extension starts from the lower edge of the main roof, but at the same time, they have different steepness. In this case, the roof of the new roof should be approximately 15.20 cm below the lower edge of the main one. Overhang of the main roof will protect the line of abutment from leaks. It is not required to connect the old and new roofs, since each of them is fixed to its crate.
How to extend the roof of the house to the extension
Interesting designs that combine both buildings under one roof. There may also be options. The rafters of the roof of the main house extend downward, the roof is laid on the extension, and under the lower edge of the roof are placed retaining posts or walls of the extension. But in this option, the extension will be low. This option is suitable for creating a small office space, for example, a pantry.
How to make a house with an extension under one roof
Covering the house and the annex with one roof is quite real. New, longer rafters are mounted, they have their own crate and a new coating common to the house and the extension of the roof. On the wall of the extension under the rafters, a special frame of good timber is laid. In professional language, it is called Mauerlat. The upper ends of the rafters are stacked and fixed on the beam “ridge run”. The lower ends of the rafters are fixed on one side of the Mauerlat.
After finishing work with the new roof, the old one can be dismantled. Thus, slightly raise the height of the ceiling.
If the extension will serve as a living room, and even in cold weather, the builder will have to make a decision on the insulation of the roof. This is a more complex structure. The same design is also used in the construction of two- and three-slope surfaces.
The insulated roof is completed with several layers of various materials. It is necessary to ensure that steam leaves the room outside, to prevent water from leaking into the house, to create a heat-insulating layer, to provide these layers with mechanical protection both from above and from below. For each of these functions, the appropriate material is applied.
Insulated Roof Construction
Docking the roof of the extension is an affordable job for a skilled man. You just have to do everything carefully and accurately.
Varieties of roofs of extensions to the house: design selection
Votes 0 06 November 2018 2018-11-06 9481 Reading time 10 minutes Read later
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Country developers are “insatiable” in their claims to increase the area of the house. Then they lack a recreation area, and then an extension appears in the form of a terrace or a veranda, then they have nowhere to park a car, and a garage immediately grows next to the house. But the topic of this article is not about extensions, but about the roofs of the extensions to the house. We will deal with them, that is, we will tell you what forms they come in, what materials they use for their construction, and how these roofs are built.
Sophisticated roof construction over the annex Source doska.Ykt.Ru
Varieties of roofs of outbuildings
Before proceeding to the analysis of roof structures, which today are used for the construction of roofs of extensions, it is necessary to identify their main elements. We will not go deeply into the features of each element, in the photo below they are clearly marked, just note the main ones that are mandatory in the roof structure. It:
Rafters carrying the main load of the roof about the slopes forming it:
Mauerlat, evenly distributing the load from the rafters to the walls of the building;
Ridge run, which forms the ridge of the roof and holds the upper ends of the rafters.
Immediately, we note that in the log house the function of the Mauerlat is performed by the upper crown of the building, in the frame house the upper harness. As for the ridge run, it is installed in the system of lay rafters.
Elements of roof construction Source poclevkin.Ru
So, with the elements of the roof sorted out, go to their varieties.
To begin with, the roof over the extension to the house is selected according to two criteria:
Depending on the design of the rafter system of the main house to which the extension is attached.
How is the extension relative to the house.
As for the location, the extension is usually erected from the facade of the building or from one of its sides.
Now, as for the forms of the roof structure of the attached premises.
This type of roof is the most popular among suburban developers, because this design is the simplest and cheapest. But it should be noted that pent roofs are presented in different variations.
The first option is shown in the photo below. It is clearly visible here that these are simply rafter legs, one end resting against the wall of the attached room. The second end can be fixed to the wall of the main house or racks are mounted under them, which themselves rest against the floor beams.
Shed roof of an annex Source starer.Ru
The peculiarity of this design is the formation of a cold roof, so it is often erected over non-residential premises such as a garage, porch or some kind of hozblok. The thing is that the volume of the attic space under such roofs is small. It is rarely used. It is such a pitched roof that is erected over open terraces attached to the main house. In this case, the roofing system may not be covered with roofing material. But since the Russian climate is a large amount of precipitation, the roofs of even open recreation areas are covered.
Outdoor terrace with a pitched roof Source m.Yandex.Ru On our site you can find contacts of construction companies that offer design and repair services for the roof. You can talk directly with representatives by visiting the Low-Rise Country exhibition of houses.
A completely different version of a shed roof, when the task is to attach to the house a room that will be used for housing. There are other requirements for the design of the rafter system, where heat-insulating measures are necessarily carried out. As one of the options. The design shown in the bottom photo.
Please note that, in fact, one of the slopes of the roof of the house is being altered so that it also covers the extension. That is, the common roof becomes asymmetric. But at the same time, it retains all the qualities of an insulated roofing structure, under which an attic is organized.
Alteration of the rafter system consists in the fact that the rafters are simply lengthened with boards, which in cross section coincide with the section of the rafter legs. And then all of them are stacked with the lower ends not the extension wall. Be sure to install a supporting stand for each rafter leg: a beam, a board, a double board.
Shed roof, combining the house and the extension Source mebel-go.Ru
In general, the option shown in the top photo is very interesting. Reconstructed ramp can not be touched. That is, purchase new rafters and carry out their installation without affecting the old ramp. The only thing is that you will have to dismantle several sections of the roofing material near the ridge run, to install new rafter legs.
But it should be noted that the reconstruction of the roof carried out in this way requires calculations. After all, the load from the installation of elongated rafters increases. Accordingly, the area of the ramp increases, and these are altered snow loads. And all this will affect the external facade wall of the extension. Therefore, on the basis of the calculations, it is necessary to purchase building materials from which the extension and the rafter system of the new ramp are being built.
It might be interesting! In the article at the following link, read about the roof of ondulin: description and characteristics of the material, installation methods.
Gable roofs of outbuildings
We must immediately make a reservation that this is not the most popular option. It is difficult to bind to the rafter system of the main house. Often an extension with a gable roof is a roof structure, one pediment of which adjoins the wall of the main building. In the photo below, just such an option is shown.
Annex to the house with a gable roof construction Source pikabu.Ru
But we must pay tribute that of all gable roof structures, this is the simplest. Because it is assembled as a separate element. That is, not tied to the roof of the house. Hence the simplicity of construction. How it’s done:
Carry out the installation of Mauerlat;
On the racks along the attached premises, which are mounted on the floor beam, set the ridge run;
Rafters are installed across the ridge;
Carry out the laying and fastening of roofing material, hem the pediment and the ceiling.
And since the extension is a small structure, the cost of its roof will be minimal.
I would like to draw attention to the fact that with such a roof you can cover the extensions built both from the facade of the house and from its ends. Over, the attached structure does not have to be located exactly in the middle of the wall of the main building. In the photo below, this option is shown.
The extension, offset from the middle of the wall of the house Source roomaholic.com
The second version of the roof structure in two slopes is a continuation of the roof of the main house. In fact, this design is not much more complicated than the previous ones. It’s just that you will have to spend as much lumber on it as on the roof of the main house. The end result is a common roof: both over the house and over the extension.
The third option is a gable roof, erected above the extension so that it wedges into the roof structure of the house from the side of the ramp. That is, it turns out an extension to the house with a sloping roof in terms of the overall design.
The general sloping roof over the house and the extension Source fav-expo.Ru This may be interesting! In the article at the following link, read about installing the roof on BAL-KONE: types of designs and prices, examples in the photo.
And the last option with gable roofs is a common roof structure. Usually this structure is erected if several rooms are attached to the main house, which in the compartment form almost one building, equal to the house. That is, the old roof is completely dismantled, calculations are carried out, a project is made in which the ridge is formed at the junction of two buildings: the old house and the extension. Then the new building is covered with one roof. In fact, it turns out, as it were, a variant with a shed roof of the extension, only they erect a symmetrical roof.
The shows how to build a gable roof over the extension:
Hip and semi-hip roofs
Hip roof shapes for houses with an extension are considered one of the most complex. They have a large number of elements and nodes, respectively, and the expense of buying building materials is a lot. At the same time, many elements are customized strictly in size, which guarantees a large amount of waste.
The photo below shows the hip roof project, in which the ridge is attached to the wall of the main building. Fastening is usually carried out on special metal brackets or on racks, but with additional fastening to the wall with anchors.
It must be understood that the hip roof consists of different slopes, which differ in shape from one another. Two of them are triangles, the other two are trapezoids. In the project shown in the photo, the trapezoidal slope is a facade, two triangular lateral. At the same time, the second slope in the form of a trapezoid is absent, because the roof is being built over the extension, which means that something should not be missing.
Hip-covered annex Source fav-expo.Ru This might be interesting! In the article at the following link, read about proper control over the progress of construction. Technical supervision.
This roof option for annexes is used very rarely. It is not only complicated. There is one point in the roofing system of the attached building. The ridge knot, which is attached to the wall of the building. And it is at this point that the greatest load on the wall and foundation of the house. Therefore, very often under the ridge site of the roof, a support stand of a beam or folded brick (blocks) is installed.
And this element in the design of the extension will have to somehow beat in the future. After all, this is the protruding part. It performs purely technological functions and carries no design load.
Tent covering of the attached premises Source kak-sdelat-kryshu.Ru
So, we examined all the roof structures that are being built over the outbuildings today. The choice is really great. Of all the proposed options, simplified designs are most often chosen, which require minimal costs. But, as the practice of suburban construction shows, not all developers are on the path to savings. The thing is that the transition of the roof to the annex is the most vulnerable place in terms of leakage.
Therefore, options with a single-pitched roof, which is formed as a single slope with the roof of the house, or the continuation of the gable roof structure of the house over the extension, are considered the most effective in terms of combating precipitation. By the way, the above just shows how such a gable system is built. I must say that it is she who is the most effective.
It can not be considered that the roof over the extension is some other construction. This is an ordinary roof with all known details, elements, components and fasteners. During its construction, it will be necessary to make calculations for determining loads. It is also insulated, shaped and constructed. The only thing that often happens is this construction is smaller in size than the roof of the main house. In all other respects, this is a traditional construction option.
Therefore, pay attention to these nuances:
The roofing material of the extension must be exactly the same as that of the roof of the house;
All wooden structural elements are treated with antiseptics and flame retardants: the first fights against mold and fungi, the second increases the fire resistance of the structure;
Roofing material is selected taking into account the angle of inclination of the slopes;
The minimum size of the cross-section of the beam under the Mauerlat is 150×150 mm;
The minimum cross-sectional size of the rafter legs is 150×50 mm.
The shows how to build an extension to an old wooden house with roof options and the proposed materials:
It might be interesting! In the article at the following link, read about a summer house with a veranda.
Conclusion on the topic
In fact, it should be noted that the proposed roof structures for the attached premises to the main house are many. Attached to the attached roofs should be the same as to the roofing systems of buildings and structures. You can’t follow the path of saving building materials here. After all, the roofs over the extensions are subjected to the same loads as any roofs.
Votes 0 Read laterhow to connect the roof of the house and the extension
How to make a roof on an extension to the house. Rules and methods for a pitched and broken roof
Quite often, an already built house needs to be built an extension that will serve for household needs or as a platform for summer vacations. Further in the article we will talk about how to make a roof on an extension to the house, which may be necessary from tools and materials, and also in what order construction work should be carried out.
Calculation of slope of a slope of a sloping roof
By design, the single-pitched roof is considered the simplest. However, even this type of extension roof requires some preparatory work. The first thing that needs to be done is to complete the roof project. At this stage, a drawing is made, which indicates the planned slope of the ramp.
It is worth noting that the slope of the roof directly affects the efficiency of its functioning, as well as the durability of the roofing. Of course, competent calculations will significantly simplify and speed up construction. The amount of roofing material used for an extension with a pitched roof will increase as the slope angle increases.
The calculation of the slope will depend primarily on climatic conditions in a particular region. This angle will be steeper, the more precipitation is expected in the winter in a particular region. Correctly selected value will allow in time and fully remove rain and snowfall from the roof surface. At the same time, if strong gusty winds are characteristic of a specific area, slopes should not be made too steep.
The roofing material with which the extension to the house with a sloping roof will be covered also affects the amount of slope:
- For slate or tile roofs should be from 22º;
- Roofing material laid in 2 layers, assumes a minimum slope of 5º, and in 3 layers. From 15º;
- The slope of the roof from corrugated board should be at least 12º;
- Metal roofs can have slopes with an angle of 14º;
- Ondulin, like ruberoid, is laid on slopes with a minimum slope of 6º;
- Soft tiles are mounted on the roof with slopes, inclined at least 11º.
Common practice shows that the maximum slope of the roof of the extension to the four-gable roof is 45º. It is worth noting that the choice of the angle of the roof will be significantly affected by the expected loads on the rafter system exerted by wind and precipitation. A design error can result in additional costs if the extension falls due to excessive loads.
Necessary materials for the roof of the extension to the house
The rafter system of an extension with a shed roof is made of wooden beams on which roofing is laid (read: “How to make a shed roof of an extension to the house with your own hands. Instructions for building a shed roof”). The frame is made of hardwood, which has been thoroughly dried, treated with antiseptics and a primer. Additionally, it is worth opening all the wooden elements with flame retardants. Such processing can significantly extend the service life of the rafter system.
So, to create a roof over the extension you will need:
- Bars for rafters, supports and other structural elements;
- Edged board for sheathing ends and laths;
- Waterproofing and warming material;
As for roofing, as a rule, a gable roof with an extension is blocked by the same type of material. At the same time, each owner proceeds, first of all, from his own material capabilities.
The thickness of the bars will depend on the expected loads of rain and snow, as well as the total mass of the roofing material. In this case, beams with sizes between 120 × 120 mm and 150 × 150 mm can be used.
- Saw or hacksaw;
- Hammer and furniture stapler;
- Nails and screws;
- Roulette and level.
The consumption of screws or nails is 8-10 pieces per 1 m 2. As for the material for insulation and waterproofing, a margin of 10-15% for joining, cutting and overlapping is added to the total surface area. The rafters are calculated based on the maximum distance between them of 1 m.
If the preliminary project did not provide for the construction of a house with an extension under one roof, you should make sure that there is at least 5 cm clearance between the roof of the main building and the additional room. In addition, it is important to correctly link the extension to the wall of the main house, so that rain or snow does not leak into the gap.
In order to attach the roof of the extension to the house as reliably as possible, construction must begin with laying the Mauerlat. It should be thicker, the steeper the slope of the ramp and the heavier the roofing.
This beam should be fixed on the walls as tight as possible, since in the future rafter legs will be joined to it where the walls of the main house and the extension will be connected. In this case, the installation of rafters is performed in pre-made grooves in the Mauerlat. Between adjacent rafters there may be a distance of 60-80 cm, but not more than 100 cm.
Please note that the slope of all rafters must be the same. Otherwise, due to distortions, water will flow under the roofing material and destroy wooden structures.
Upon completion of the erection of the rafter system, they begin insulation work. In cases where the rafters are too long, additional support elements are placed between them. On top of them, perpendicular to the rafters, a plastic film, ruberoid or other material for waterproofing is spread. To ensure tightness, the insulation is covered with overlap and glued joints with adhesive tape. Roofing material is fixed on the rafters using a stapler.
How to Calculate the Right Angle For Trimming
How to make the abutment of the roof to the wall
The junction of the walls of the house and the roof over the extension is additionally sealed to prevent water from flowing into the cracks. At this stage, you should also decide how to connect the roof of the house and the extension. First, the upper layer of roofing material is rolled out over the roof surface of the extension and heated with a blowtorch. After that, the material is glued to the main wall.
In the next step, the crate is attached over the waterproofing layer. It is fixed perpendicular to the rafter legs from a 5 × 5 cm rail. The crate pitch is selected based on the type of roofing. If it is a solid material, then each sheet should rest on at least two bars. For soft roofing, a continuous crate of chipboards or edged boards is stuffed.
The final stage of the construction of the roof over the extension is the installation of the roofing. The method of laying it depends on the type of material. Be sure to make sure that the coating is laid in a continuous layer without gaps. In conclusion, the edged board sew up the side parts of the roof.
Is it necessary to insulate the roof of the extension
Roof insulation work on the extension can reduce heat loss, as well as increase the efficiency of heating, if it is provided in such a room. In order to perform insulation work, before installing the waterproofing layer, it is necessary to make a draft ceiling. The selected insulation material is laid on it, covered with a layer of waterproofing, and then all other installation work is already performed.
Inside, such a ceiling can be sheathed with drywall or moisture-proof plywood. Do not forget to also insulate the ends of the roof to reduce heat loss due to side winds. In this case, any available material can be used.
The external decor of the end parts of the roof over the extension can be done with any finishing materials as you wish.
How to make a shed roof of an extension to the house with your own hands
The shed roof of the extension to the house has a simple structure, so it can be built fairly quickly with your own hands without any special problems and significant costs. We will describe in more detail how to make a roof, what materials and tools may be required for this, and what should be the sequence of work.
Choose the angle of the roof
Before you begin, you must perform a few preliminary steps. Firstly, it is necessary to design the roof of the extension. For this, a drawing is made in which it is necessary to determine the angle of inclination of the roof surface.
The angle of inclination is a very important value, which affects the durability and effectiveness of the roof. Correctly performed calculations will help to quickly and efficiently cope with the work. The higher the angle, the more materials you will have to spend on building the roof of the extension.
This indicator is selected taking into account the prevailing weather conditions in the area where the house stands. The more rainfall in this region, the larger the angle should be. Thanks to this, water and snow will not accumulate and destroy the roof surface. In areas where strong winds blow, it is better to choose a small angle.
Shed roof of an extension to the house
The angle of inclination is also selected depending on the material of which the roof is made:
- Tile or slate. At least 22 degrees;
- Roofing material. At least 5 degrees with a two-layer coating, and 15 degrees. With a three-layer;
- Corrugated board. At least 12 degrees;
- Metal tile. 14 degrees;
- Ondulin. At least 6 degrees;
- Soft tiles. At least 11 degrees.
As practice shows, the roof of the extension to the main structure can have a maximum angle of inclination equal to 45 degrees. But when choosing an indicator between the minimum and maximum, it is important to take into account not only the aesthetics of the roof, but also remember the loads that will occur when precipitation or gusts of wind.
An incorrectly chosen angle of inclination will lead to unforeseen expenses for repair money in the event of an extension fall.
We select materials
Traditionally, a single-pitched roof is built of wooden beams on which roofing material is laid. The tree is selected solid hard, well-dried and treated with protective substances from insects and atmospheric influences. In addition, all the wooden parts from which the one-sided roof of the extension will be built must be impregnated with fire fighting means. Due to this, the service life of rafters and structural beams will significantly increase.
In order to erect the roof of the extension, the following materials will be required:
- Beam for beams, rafters and supports;
- A board for the lathing and cladding of the end and sides;
- Insulation and waterproofing;
- Roofing materials.
The latter should be discussed separately. Typically, the roof of an extension to a residential building is made of the same material as the main roof. But in case this is not possible, the roofing material is selected based on the financial capabilities of the owner of the house.
Materials for the roof
A bar for rafters is selected with dimensions from 120×120 millimeters and up to 150×150 millimeters. They depend on the weight of the material that has been selected for the roof. The heavier it is, the thicker the timber should be. You also need to take a “reserve” of the load in the form of snow, rain or wind.
To do the work yourself will need tools:
- Electric or hand saw;
- Electric drill;
- Furniture stapler;
- Screws or nails;
Nails and screws are stored on the basis that 8-10 pieces will be required per 1 square meter of surface. And when buying insulation material and insulation for the roof, you need to remember that to the required size you need to add another 10-15%, which will go to overlays, trimming or joining of materials.
The number of rafters is taken from the calculation that they are installed at a distance of no more than 1 meter from each other.
We carry out construction work
In the case when a house with an annex is not provided under one roof, it is necessary that the roof of the house protrudes above the annex by at least 5 centimeters. You need to carefully consider how to attach the structure to the wall, otherwise rainwater or snow will get inside.
The rafters will rest on the outer wall, so on it, with the help of a level, a supporting beam is horizontally attached, it is also a Mauerlat. This is the thickest beam, and the higher the roof angle is made or the heavier the selected roofing material, the more massive it should be.
Mauerlat is most securely attached to the wall, because the ends of the rafters will be fixed on it in the place where the extension will be docked and the walls of the main building. How to connect them together? Rafters are best inserted into the grooves previously cut in the Mauerlat. The recommended distance between them should be about 0.6-0.8 meters, but not more than one meter.
When laying rafters, it is necessary to ensure that they all have the same angle of inclination. Otherwise, skew may occur, and water, accumulating, will destroy the roof of the extension.
After the rafters are fixed, the second stage of construction work begins. Waterproofing. If the rafters are long, additional supports are added between them. Roofing material, a thick plastic film or other waterproofing material is laid on top of them across the bars. Experts recommend overlapping and gluing every joint with duct tape. And the roofing material itself is attached to the rafters with a stapler.
To prevent water from falling into the gap between the roof of the extension and the wall of the house, the joint is additionally insulated. How to connect the roof of the extension to the wall? To do this, the edge of the uppermost strip of roofing material is brought out above the roof surface of the extension and heated with a blowtorch, and then glued to the wall.
Correct mounting to the wall of the house
On top of the waterproofing layer, a crate is made. To do this, use a beam measuring 5×5 cm, which is mounted across the rafters. For a solid roof, the distance between the bars is taken so that one sheet lies on at least two of them. For a soft roof, the lathing is made continuous, from boards or OSB.
The final stage is the laying of roofing material. It is laid, starting from the bottom row towards the top, fixing by the technology inherent in each of the varieties. It is important to ensure that the connection does not have gaps.
It remains to sew up the end parts of the sidewall with boards, so that water and snow do not fall under the roof.
Warm or cold?
Some masters recommend insulating the roof of the extension.
This will reduce the heat loss in the house if the extension is not heated. This will be necessary if a separate heating source is made in it.
Extension roof insulation
For insulation before laying on the roof of the waterproofing in the annex, a draft ceiling is made. He is not laid in layers of insulation, on top of it is covered with a waterproofing layer. And only after that all the work described above is carried out.
Bottom of the ceiling of the extension can be sewn up with plywood or drywall.
In addition, the end part of the roof should be insulated so that the lateral wind does not blow out heat. To do this, you can use any material based on financial capabilities.
Some masters, making the roof of the extension, sheathe the end parts on top of the boards with various finishing materials, for example, plastic. Thanks to this, such a roof takes on a more elegant and finished look.
How to make a roof on an extension to the house
An extension to the house is a residential or non-residential building located next to the house and having at least one common wall with it. The extension is set up after the erection of basic knowledge, as a rule, a separate project should be developed for it and individual characteristics of the architectural element should be taken into account. All of them influence the tightness and durability of the roof.
How to make a roof on an extension to the house
Major mistakes during the construction of the roof of the extension
Inexperienced developers do not pay due attention to compliance with building codes and rules, they believe that the extension is the simplest object, it is nothing complicated. As a result, not only leaks appear on the roof, but the stability of the entire structure is also violated. What should I look for?
If the foundation of the house is treated with due attention, then the extension can be put almost on the rocks. The argument is that the extension is light, the loads on the foundation are small, a real foundation is not needed. This is a big mistake, a weak foundation becomes the cause of the fluctuation of the extension and the front walls of the house. Due to such fluctuations, cracks inevitably appear between the roof of the extension and the main building, water and snow fall through them. It is almost impossible to completely get rid of cracks; annual repairs will have to be done to eliminate leaks.
Important. The depth of the foundation of the extension should be the same as the depth of the foundation of the house. To increase the rigidity of the structures, it is recommended that they are additionally interconnected using rods of building reinforcement.
Foundation for an extension to the house
Until now, some builders recommend connecting the walls of the extension and the house. This is done in several ways.
- For bricks in the front wall, niches with a depth of half a brick are made.
- If the extension is made of concrete blocks, then every three rows they are fixed with pieces of reinforcement.
- Wooden walls are pulled together with brackets or metal corners.
An example of joining the walls of an extension from a log house with the walls of a wooden house
These activities can only slightly increase the stability of the extension. But, as mentioned above, only a solid foundation fully guarantees the immobility of the structure and the tightness of the roof.
For extensions, two types of roofs are used.
For an example we will take a simple type of an extension roof. Flat with adjoining to a front wall from foam concrete blocks.
Step-by-step construction instructions
For roofing materials
Before starting work on the roof, you need to prepare materials. For work you will need:
- Lumber. The rafter system is made of edged boards 150 × 50 mm or more, for soft roofs it is necessary to prepare materials for the crate. It can be made from unedged boards of the second or third grade with a thickness of about 20 mm and slats.
Edged board 50x150x6000
Important. Unedged boards should be sanded without fail, otherwise after a few years the bark beetles will damage the wood. Impregnation is necessary to protect wooden structures. It is recommended to use a comprehensive, while protecting from pests and fire.
Means for wood fire protection
Nails or screws. It is easier and faster to work with nails, in addition, at a cost they are cheaper than self-tapping screws. As for the stability of the structure, there is no difference, this parameter does not depend on hardware, but on the correctness of the construction work.
Nails and screws
- Materials for the roof. On small outbuildings, any modern roofing materials can be used. The best option is a metal tile or corrugated board. But you can use flexible tiles or roll bitumen roofing. For the second, a solid crate should be made, which somewhat complicates the construction process. Metal tile Professional flooring Flexible tile
- Additional materials. I mean the spillway system and snow retention, if any, to be installed. Gutter system Snow retainer for metal roofing Snow retainer for soft roofing
For the manufacture of the roof you need ordinary measuring and carpentry tools. Using electrical equipment is much simpler and easier, but if they are not, then such a small roof can be built manually.
Step 1. Impregnate lumber. You can buy any antiseptic, they all pretty well cope with their tasks. A prerequisite. The boards must be dry. The antiseptic is diluted with water, the proportions are indicated by the manufacturer. Impregnation is done at least twice from all sides. Before starting work, lay the boards on a clean and even surface, you can soak them with a brush, roller or pneumatic spray gun.
Impregnation of lumber in this case is carried out by a roller
Step 2. Install Mauerlat. It should lie on a flat surface, for this the upper plane of the last row of the structure must be aligned. For work, cement-sand mixture or tile glue is used, if it remains after any facing work. Open bags with tiled glue can not be stored for more than 2-3 weeks, it is very hygroscopic, absorbs moisture and hardens. In order not to throw away the glue, at the first opportunity, use it to perform other construction work. The surface can be smoothed out with a wooden trowel or a metal spatula. Make sure that the plane is not only flat, but also strictly horizontal.
Tile glue application
For Mauerlat, it is necessary to use boards 50 × 150 mm or timber, as an ordinary waterproofing material it is better to use a waterproofing layer. But there are substitutes here. If thin foamed polyethylene remains during the installation of floors, then it should not be thrown away. This material does not leak moisture and perfectly replaces roofing material. Cut the waterproofing with strips 2-3 cm wider than the board and use a stapler to attach it to the surface of the Mauerlat.
The material is fixed with a stapler
Step 3. Fasten the Mauerlat to the reinforcing belt. There are several mounting options:
- During the laying of the last row of the extension, install metal studs between the seams;
- Concrete studs when pouring the reinforcing belt;
- Fix the board to the wall with special dowels.
In our case, the third option is best suited for several reasons. Firstly, the extension is small, the loads on the rafter system are insignificant, there is no need to provide a very reliable fixation of the elements. Secondly, a board is used as a Mauerlat, it is easy to drill it in place without preliminary marking. Thirdly, the work is much simplified and accelerated. There is no need to take measurements of each hairpin, shift a heavy beam several times on a thin wall, drill deep through holes strictly at right angles.
The dowel diameter is 12 mm, length ≈ 150 mm. How is it fixed?
- Put the board exactly in place, check its position, correct errors if necessary.
- Prepare the tool. To drill holes in the wall, you need a drill with a victorious surfacing Ø 12.5–13 mm and a length of at least 200 mm. Why do you need such a long drill? The length of the dowel is 150 mm, while the depth of the hole in the wall is only 100 mm. If the drill will have the same dimensions, it will be impossible to remove concrete dust from the hole. As a result, the dowel will not enter the entire length of the hole; fixing the Mauerlat will not ensure its stable position during various loads from the rafter system.
- Stand on the board, first drill holes in it using an ordinary drill.
- Replace the drill with a drill bit and prepare a hole in the wall, clean it from building dust.
- Insert the dowel (anchor) and amass it. Do not fix to the end.
- Repeat the same operations from the other end of the Mauerlat. Pre-correct the position of the board.
- After the two extreme dowels (anchors) are installed, tighten them and proceed to fix the remaining hardware. The distance between them is about 30–40 cm.
On this preparatory work is completed, you can begin the installation of the beams of the roof of the extension of the extension.
Installation of floor beams
To increase the strength of the structure near the wall, they should be fixed to the board nailed to the masonry.
Step 1. Place a board of the same thickness as the Mauerlat on the opposite wall of the extension. Check their position, they should be located strictly in a horizontal plane, otherwise the ceiling will be sloped. On a horizontal board, temporarily put another one on the edge, in this place the beams will be fixed. If there is an exit of floor beams from the main structure. Excellent, they can be used to navigate with the position of the ceiling and other roof structures of the annex and attach a board to them.
Stacked board, horizontal check
Important. Between the board and the wall, be sure to waterproof. It should perform two functions: protect the board from moisture from the wall and prevent leaks in the cracks. As a waterproofing, it is recommended to choose foamed polyethylene. His pores are closed, due to which tightness is ensured. A high ductility fully compensates for all possible fluctuations in the size of the cracks.
Step 2. Attach the waterproofing and seal to the board and mark the holes for the screws with a length of approximately 10 cm and a diameter of 7 mm.
If the ends of the beams of the ceiling of the house do not go out of the wall, then you need to fix it on special dowels. The board must be firmly fixed, it is subject to significant multidirectional loads.
Practical advice. When screwing large-diameter hardware into any board, holes must be made under them. If there are no holes, then a large effort to break appears, the board can crack. And such an element will have to be changed, the rafter system is made only from whole and healthy boards.
The diameter of the drilled hole should be 1-1.5 mm less than the diameter of the hardware, it should not stagger. First, the board is fixed to the extreme holes, its position is checked. If everything is normal, then you can tighten the remaining screws.
Fixed metal holder
Practical advice. Fix fasteners first only with two screws, screw the rest only after the final alignment of the ceiling beams.
Step 4. Prepared and treated by impregnation of the beams in turn, put into place, at the same time align the distance between them.
Step 5. Screw the boards to the Mauerlat using self-tapping screws.
4 screws on each side
The ceiling of the extension is done, lay boards or other materials on it. If necessary, the ceiling can be made insulated. The final stage of roof construction is the installation of rafters.
For various types of fasteners for rafters
Fasteners for rafters
As previously mentioned, the roof will be a sloping roof. The slope depends on the roofing materials used, but in most cases about 10 ° is enough. One end of the rafters rests on the Mauerlat, and the second on a special board fixed to the wall of the building.
Step 1. Install the vertical bars on the high side of the ramp.
Installation of vertical bars
The height of the bars depends on the angle of the roof. On small extensions, it is not necessary to take into account the snow and wind loads, you can determine the parameter by eye. Of course, given the roofing materials. The supports are attached to the wall with self-tapping screws, on them in the future there will be a rafter board, this is an additional emphasis of the element of the rafter system.
The supports are attached to the wall with self-tapping screws
Step 2. Fix the board, in which the rafters rest.
The board on which the rafters rest
It should be horizontal, the width of the board corresponds to the width of the rafters. The board must also have a waterproofing and sealant, fastened with durable dowels with a length of at least 150 mm. The distance between the hardware is approximately 60 cm.
Practical advice. To make it easier to work, the board can be temporarily screwed to the wall with long screws. In this position, it is more convenient to drill holes for the supporting hardware.
Step 3. In a checkerboard pattern, make holes for the main fixture, do not forget to check its position before doing this. Remove the board and mark the holes under the dowels. Particular attention should be paid to structures made of foam blocks, the strength of such masonry materials is insufficient. In order to secure the board to the wall, it is recommended to fulfill several conditions.
- The diameter of special dowels for foam blocks cannot be less than 14 mm. The rest do not provide the required stability of fixation.
The length of the hardware is not less than 1/3 of the width of the wall.
The depth of the thread is at least two millimeters. This means that the diameter of the hole should be 4 mm less than the diameter of the plastic part of the dowels along the screw crest.
If the roof is large, and the physical strength indicators of the blocks are worrying, then special technologies should be used to fix the dowels: use glue in the holes, make them conical and fill with cement-sand mortar, etc. Today there are many effective ways to reliably fix hardware in fragile masonry materials.
Important. You can make holes in the foam blocks only in the drilling mode, switch the drill.
Step 4. Reinstall the board and screw it into the plastic dowels with screws; always place large diameter washers under the screws.
The screws are staggered
Step 5. Proceed with the installation of rafters. This must be done in several stages.
- Slide the rafter to the board mounted on the wall. Bottom the corner against the board.
- Mark the cut line of the end of the board. Making this a very simple template. Pick a piece of board, the length should slightly exceed the width of the board, and the width should provide an even cut of the end. If there is no such segment, then the template can be made from a piece of plywood, OSB or any other solid material.
Rafter leaned against the board, template attached
Place the template on a horizontal board and draw a vertical line on the end of the rafters. Cut the end along it.
- Check the correct layout. The cut end must fit snugly against the board fixed to the wall. A few millimeters of divergence do not matter, the rafter will lie on a special metal stand.
This is the first stage of preparation of the butt of the rafter leg. Now you need to make a seat under the metal stand.
- At the bottom of the cut line, draw a label under the stand. The length of the line is several millimeters longer than the length of the stand stop. To do this, use a square to draw a perpendicular line. A margin of length must be done, it eliminates the appearance of unpleasant situations in case of errors during sizing or filing. The board will always lie on a horizontal platform along its entire length, and not just hang on the tip.
- To this line, draw perpendicular down.
Marking for the footprint
Carefully cut off excess pieces of the board using a hand-held electric circular saw or jigsaw. The cuts are removed with a hacksaw.
Sawing a seat
The cuts are removed with a hacksaw
Step 6. In turn, screw the stops and install rafters on them.
Rafters are fixed with metal stops
Practical advice. If experience is not enough, it is recommended that you first fix the two extreme rafters, pull the rope between them and mount all the rest on it.
If the board is flat and the top face is strictly horizontal, then you can align the rafters along it. Work with each separately, first amass a metal stand, check the position of the rafters, and only then finally fix it. No need to screw self-tapping screws into each hole in the perforated holder. There are many of them not so that they all have self-tapping screws, but so that you can choose whole sections of the board for screwing. Lumber has knots, cracks, natural malformations, it is impossible to screw screws or hammer nails into them.
Step 7. The other end of the rafters can be fixed to the beam with long nails (bolts, screws) or to the board with metal squares. There is no difference, choose the appropriate option for yourself. If the angle of inclination of the ramp is small, then it is not necessary to specially cut the rafters to increase the area of emphasis on the Mauerlat. The load is small and will be transmitted to the Mauerlat via floor beams or metal corners.
Fixing the other end of the rafters
The most complex work is completed, then it is required to perform trimming of the rafters. To facilitate the process, it is recommended to independently make a large square for the template. Two thin boards approximately 5 cm wide and 40-50 cm long are suitable for this.
Step 1. At each departure of the rafters with the help of a rectangular template, make marks along the length of the departure.
Level Tag Check
Step 2. Using a level, apply a horizontal line to the plane of the board until it intersects with the previously drawn vertical line. Do not rush, carefully monitor the level readings.
First, cut the rafters in length, and then in width. The bottom cut should be horizontal, boards are nailed to it in the future.
Photo rafters of a shed roof of an extension to the house
If the roof will be covered with metal tiles or profiled sheets, then the crate can not be done. But the final decision must be made taking into account the technical parameters of the coatings: the thickness of the metal and the height of the profiles. For soft coatings, a continuous crate is required. If the metal roof is thin, it is recommended to lay a crate of any lumber waste. The step is approximately 40-50 cm.
Read even more information on roofing on Stroyday.Ru.
How to make a shed roof of an extension to the house with your own hands. Instructions for building a shed roof
In each house there are always a lot of objects and household tools, which simply do not have a suitable place inside a residential building. For storage of such things sheds or garages are usually used, if the local area allows.
However, often there is no place on the site to build a freestanding structure, so the owners decide to make an extension to their house. In this article we will tell you how to make a shed roof on the extension and what materials you may need for this.
How to make the roof of an extension to the house
A lightweight roof structure, which consists of only one inclined slope, is called a pitched roof. Let’s look at how to make a roof on an extension to the house, what are the nuances and construction features. This design includes a rafter system, pediments, crate and finishing roofing material. A feature of the extension of the single-pitched roof to the house is the need to fix it to one of the bearing walls of the main building.
The structural elements of a shed roof of this type are as follows:
- Mauerlat. This is the main supporting beam, which accounts for the bulk of all roof trusses and roofing material. It also redistributes the load on the bearing walls and the foundation of the building. A solid wood treated with antiseptics is used to lay this element. When deciding to build a shed roof of an extension to the house with their own hands, one Mauerlat beam is fixed on the supporting wall of the building, and the second is fixed on vertical supports.
- Rafters. These elements support the roofing material and transfer its mass further to the Mauerlat beam. To create rafters, a board with a section of 50 × 150 or 100 × 150 mm is used. To fasten them on a support beam, cuts are made from both ends of the rafters.
- Struts. These are additional supporting elements of the frame that support the rafters if the length of the slope exceeds 4 m. At one end they abut against the rafters, and the other. Into the Mauerlat.
- Crate. For its arrangement, boards with dimensions of 40 × 150 mm are used. They are stacked on top of rafters with a certain step to create a support for laying the finish coating. A continuous crate of plywood or particle boards is performed for a soft roof.
It is worth noting that the drawing of a shed with a pitched roof attached to the house can be done independently, since this design is the simplest of all possible. Over, complex mathematical calculations are not needed. True, special attention should be paid to the method of joining the roof of the extension to the main building. It is important to take care of reliable waterproofing of the seam to avoid leaks.
Design calculations and drawing of a shed roof
Of course, so that the finished structure is durable and does not cause trouble during the rainfall or in the cold season, before starting construction, you need to draft a shed with a pitched roof, which will adjoin the house. In this case, it will be necessary to calculate the surface area of the slope, its slope, the length of the rafter legs and the difference in the height of the supports. All this should contain the project of the roof of the house. Correct calculations will ensure the durability of the roof and its effectiveness. You can determine the necessary parameters using ready-made calculator programs or using formulas.
Manually sought quantities are calculated as follows:
- The angle of inclination of the roof is determined as a result of dividing the difference in height of the supporting posts by the width of the structure. As a rule, it is in the range of 15-40º and is determined based on the weather conditions of the area and the requirements of the manufacturers of roofing material.
- For a given slope, the height difference of the supporting posts can be calculated by multiplying the angle by the extension width. These parameters are calculated so that during the construction of the shed roof of the extension to the house, the necessary slope can be observed.
- To determine the length of the rafters, it is necessary to divide the difference in the height of the supports by the sine of the slope of the ramp. The resulting value will allow you to calculate the amount of material required to create a rafter system of an extension to the house.
- You can calculate the surface area by multiplying the length and width of the slope. The parameter is used to determine the amount of roofing and waterproofing materials for the roof. Note that you need to purchase them with a 15-20% margin for trimming and overlaps.
Weather conditions significantly affect the durability of the roof. So, if significant snow loads are expected. It is better to make the slopes steeper, and if the windy weather prevails. gentle, with a slope of less than 15º.
What materials will be required for the shed roof
During the construction of the roof of the extension to the house you will need:
- Wood. You will need a pine beam with a section of 100 × 100 or 150 × 150 mm, edged boards 50 × 150 mm, unedged boards 40 × 150 mm and a rail with a section of 25 × 50 mm for the erection of the rafter system. The moisture content of the material should not exceed 15-16%, and its surface should be free of chips, cracks and stains. Using deep penetration antiseptics, you can avoid rotting and mold formation due to penetrating moisture.
- Roofing. You can choose the right material for quality and cost from a wide range of varieties on the market. The budget option is slate, decking or roofing material. Two times more expensive will cost a better and more presentable outwardly material. Soft roof, ondulin, metal tile. If we are talking about the closure of a winter garden, greenhouse or porch, you can use polycarbonate. A transparent material that perfectly transmits sunlight, heat-insulating material.
- Waterproofing. This layer is intended to protect the wooden roof truss system of the extension roof from moisture penetration and, as a result, damage to structures. For this, a roofing material, a film or a diffuse membrane can be used. However, in practice, ruberoid showed itself in the best way, since it is the most durable of the above.
- Mounts There are many options for fixing consumables during roof installation. Self-tapping screws with rubber washers, nails, anchors, metal corners. In the case of self-tapping screws, their consumption per 1 m2 of area is about 10 pieces. So, to calculate the quantity, the consumption rate must be multiplied by the area.
Please note that the choice of a roofing similar to the main building will make the extension a harmonious continuation of the house. However, if this is impossible due to financial capabilities, it is worth choosing the material that is as close as possible in color. The choice of light materials (ondulin, ruberoid or corrugated board) will make it possible to create a lightweight simple frame.
Do-it-yourself technique for building a roof structure
So, if you still decide to make the roof of the extension to the house with your own hands, after designing and purchasing materials, you can begin construction. For work, you will need a hacksaw or angle grinder, screwdriver, plane, drill, stapler, ruler, marker and drawstring.
Construction is carried out in several stages:
- Using anchor bolts or metal studs, the first Mauerlat beam is installed on the supporting wall of the house. Rafter legs will be laid on it, so that the fixation must be reliable.
- The second Mauerlat beam is mounted either on the bearing wall of the future extension, or on supporting posts. Their height should be below the main load-bearing wall of the house to provide the necessary slope of the roof. On the posts, the beam is fastened with studs, and on the supporting wall with anchor bolts.
- Next, make the calculated number of rafter legs of the same length and perform cuts in each of them for laying on the Mauerlat. Extreme rafters are attached first, then a lace is pulled between them, and at this level all remaining legs are attached.
- On top of the rafters lay waterproofing. Ruberoid at the junction of the extension with the main house is led onto the wall by 15-20 cm and melted to it using a gas burner.
- The fastening of the waterproofing layer is carried out by a counter-battens lath nailed to the rafters. Perpendicular to the counter-lattice, the main lathing under the roofing material is mounted in increments of 10-15 cm.
- The last step will be the laying of the roofing on the crate. You need to start the flooring from right to left and from bottom to top, laying sheets with an overlap of 10-15 cm. On shallow roofs, the overlap of the material is increased, and the joints are additionally coated with a sealing compound.
It is worth noting that the movement of water on a sloping roof will be carried out in only one direction, therefore, it is necessary to establish high-quality drains. Lastly, you can start the insulation work and the final sewing of the gables.
I want to walk on the roof
I’m going to make a one-story extension to the house, but what to do with the roof? Above this place there is a window from the attic, I persuade my husband to turn the roof of the annex into a veranda with railing, put a door in place of the attic window. He says open balconies and terraces are a big deal. What do you advise?
It requires not just BAL-KON, but an exploitable flat roof over the extension. Until recently, such an architectural sophistication was difficult to find in private homes. The main reason is most likely due to the fact that reliable waterproofing materials were not available to private developers. Now in the albums of technical solutions from manufacturers of roofing materials and insulation you can find a wide variety of options for flat roofs.
To make an exploited roof of a small size is quite within the power of a private developer. Unlike a pitched roof, such a projection can be carried out even alone.
Further, the roof over the residential heated room must be insulated. To do this, first, a vapor barrier layer is laid on the concrete slab. This can be, for example, roll material with bitumen impregnation glued with mastic.
As a heater, you can take two layers of rigid extruded foam, which is glued to a vapor barrier with building glue. Varying the thickness of the insulation layers, we form a small slope for water drainage.
The formation of a slope with a reinforced concrete screed ends. Grooves can be made in it to set the desired direction for rainwater. We add a modifier to the concrete, and on top we cover it with water-repellent paint (this can be found, for example, in the arsenal of pool builders).
On top of this inclined surface, you can assemble a horizontal flooring of antiseptic boards coated with a good varnish. Rain water should drain between the boards along the grooves in the concrete screed into the downspout. In winter, snow can be removed from the floor without fear of damaging the waterproofing.
An exploited roof with a PVC membrane coating can be made lighter. The membrane is both resistant waterproofing and fine finish of the veranda floor.
As supporting elements, you can use not a concrete slab, but wooden beams laid with a slight slope.
From below, they are sheathed with a vapor barrier film and are finished, for example, with drywall or lining.
The cavity between the beams is filled with insulation. In this design, it is convenient to use mineral wool rather than polystyrene. From above it is closed by a windproof superdiffusion membrane. Through the membrane, moist air comes out of the heater (the ingress of which cannot be completely excluded even with the use of vapor barrier), and it protects the heater from blowing.
On top of the crate, with overlapping seams, two layers of sheet material are laid (plywood, OSB, DSP), and a seamless PVC membrane is glued to them. Adherents of reinsurance between two layers of plates will definitely insert another layer of waterproofing, at least in the form of roofing material.
Please note: the space between the plates and the superdiffusion membrane must be ventilated. So the end of the roof will need to be trimmed with the help of some kind of grill.
The only noticeable drawback of this design is that the floor of the veranda will have a slight slope for the flow of water.
A place that you should pay special attention to when erecting such a veranda is adjoining its floor to the existing wall of the house. If possible, all waterproofing layers of the roof should be wound onto the wall. And the best option for wall decoration in the adjoining zone is ceramic tile.
Another option for a flat roof proposed by the manufacturer of mineral wool boards:
1. Bearing reinforced concrete slab,
2. Bitumen layer (vapor barrier),
3. Thermal insulation boards from mineral wool,
4. Surfaced waterproofing carpet,
5. Cement-sand screed reinforced with metal mesh,
6. Paving slabs.
An extension to a residential building, usually built if you need to add living space, build a terrace or veranda for relaxing in the summer, get a place for utility rooms or a garage. Of course, she definitely needs a reliable roof.
In this case, the main difficulty is to properly equip the place of joining of the main structure and the roof of the additional structure. In these areas, leaks most often occur.
Roofs for outbuildings
When erecting additional buildings, use 2 main types of roofs.
The simplest design, even inexperienced builders will be able to make it. It is good for its reliability, low construction costs and ease of manufacture. The downside is that it is difficult to insulate the ceiling, and sometimes you have to do the interior below to make it possible to make the necessary slope of the ramp.
It is more difficult to make this cover for an extension. You will have to create a reliable junction with a residential building. To do this, you need to disassemble part of the roof, change the design of the rafter system. At annexes it is better to use it only if you are building a residential, warm additional building. A gable roof will not make the room lower, will make it possible to properly insulate the ceiling and minimize heat loss. The manufacture of a gable structure is best entrusted to experienced builders.
What troubles can happen
Minor mistakes in the construction of the roof for the extension are not critical, if it is standing behind the house or sheltered in the shade of trees, it will not worsen the appearance of the entire building. The most important thing is to properly arrange the junction of the roof of the house and the extension. Whatever foundation is used to build the veranda, this part of the house will remain slightly mobile. For this reason, the junction must be able to stretch and contract.
You will not be able to notice these movements visually, but if the adjacency assembly is improperly designed, these effects can damage the building’s cover over time. For this reason, the abutment must be made not only waterproof, but it must be elastic at the same time.
The rafter structure should be supported by the harness, or should be connected in the upper part to the wall of the main building with brackets or anchors. The complexity of arranging the junction of two buildings directly depends on the roofing material used.
To join the roof of the main house, with the roof covered with soft tiles, you need to protect the top of the abutment with an apron made of tin, which is inserted into the shtroba and securely fixed.
Ondulin and slate are mounted the same way, the only difference is that the slate fasteners need to be driven into each slat.
Treating the roof on an additional part of the building is necessary in the same way as covering the main house. With its device, you should not save building materials. They are affected by loads that do not differ from the loads on the main building. Pay special attention to her, and you will get a reliable, cozy and warm extension!
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