How to connect a circular saw through a switch. Stanin and frame

Connecting the on.hand saw button. Homemade circular saw. Design options. The saw stops in the process

The household often lacks circular saw, especially if the overhaul or construction is started. Industrial products are not affordable for everyone. too expensive. But you can make a circular yourself using the materials that are in the household.

DIY Circular saw is created with a promotion in several possible directions:

  • adaptation of an existing manual tool using an engine and a disk saw for new capabilities;
  • improving industrial products to expand functionality;
  • assembly from separate parts made mainly on their own.

The stationary circular machine includes several main nodes: table, shaft, engine and some others whose characteristics are not so important.

The table is used to attach woodworking mechanisms. It can be collected completely from metal, which is preferable, especially for high.power machines with a high.power engine. Good tables for circular are also made of wood. But it must be borne in mind that the countertop should be covered with a sheet of metal, otherwise the tree will soon be worn out. Tables should be very rigid and stable, capable of withstanding a considerable load when working. The surface is made perfectly even, the installation of protection shields is mandatory above rotating details.

For a homemade circular, the engine from the washing machine is well suitable. A portable tool is suitable less: their collector engines are designed only for short.lived operation. They have very high speeds, a small efficiency, they are afraid of clogging. You can apply a three.phase electric motor, but if there are no 380 V on the farm, you will need to purchase capacitors so that it works from 220 V.

The most responsible node is the shaft. Use ready, if any, or is pulled out of metal-circle. Work on a lathe is performed in one installation, then assembly with the working bodies check the centering. Even minimal beating is unacceptable, otherwise it will become stronger in work in which it is unacceptable to work. They provide seats on the shaft: under the disc saw and under the pulleys on the other side. You can also make grooves for strict knives.

connect, circular, switch, stanin, frame

The main parameters. calculation of power, revolutions, transmission

Characteristics of a disc saw, engine and maximum lumber thickness, which can be cut, interconnected. The purchase circular disk indicates the maximum speed for which it is designed. The number of revolutions transmitted by the engine to the shaft should be less. The engine power affects the maximum allowable diameter of the toothed saw. The diameter should be at least three times the thickness of the material, otherwise it will be difficult to saw. It is believed that for sawing materials 100 mm thick, you need a motor at least 1 kW of power.

Transmission is made only cuneiform. when foreign objects hit the saw, jamming the material, the belt slides on the pulleys. In such cases, injuries are practically excluded. It is important to choose the right transfer number correctly. Two indicators take into account: engine speed and the maximum allowable number of revolutions of the disc saw. We calculate the necessary diameters of the pulleys. A pulley with a large diameter is installed on the engine, and on the shaft for the circular. less to increase the number of revolutions.

The speed of the shaft with a disc saw is as many times larger than the engine speed as the diameter of its pulley from the diameter of the pulley on the engine.

Switching to the desired voltage

First you need to make sure that our engine has the necessary parameters. They are written on a tag attached to him from the side. It should indicate that one of the parameters is 220V. Next, look at the connection of the windings. It is worth remembering the pattern of the circuit: the star is for lower voltage, the triangle is for a higher. What does this mean?

Increased voltage

Suppose the tag says: Δ/ỵ220/380. This means that we need to turn on a triangle, since most often the default connection is 380 volts. How to do it? If the electric motor in the borne has a terminal box, then it is easy. There are jumpers, and all that is needed is to switch them to the right position.

But what if three wires are simply displayed? Then you have to disassemble the device. At the stature you need to find three ends that are soldered among themselves. This is a star connection. The wires need to be disconnected and connected to a triangle.

In this situation, this does not cause difficulties. The main thing is to remember that there is the beginning and end of the coils. For example, we take the ends that were brought to the Borno.Born to the Born. So what is soldered is the ends. Now it is important not to confuse.

We connect this: we connect the beginning of one coil with the end of the other, and so on.

As you can see, the scheme is simple. Now the engine that was connected for 380 can be included in the 220 volt network.

Decrease in voltage

Suppose the tag says: Δ/ỵ 127/220. This means that a star is needed. Again, if there is a terminal box, then everything is fine. And if not, and our electric motor is turned on with a triangle? And if the ends are not signed, then how to connect them correctly? After all, it is also important here to know where the coil winding began, and where is the end. There are some ways to solve this problem.

To begin with, we will divert all six ends to the sides and with an ohmmeter will find the stator coils ourselves.

Take adhesive tape, isolet, something else of what is and we will mark them. It will come in handy now, and maybe someday in the future.

We take the usual battery and connect to the ends of A1-A2. To two other ends (B1-B2) we connect an ohmmeter.

At the time of the contact of the contact with the battery, the arrow of the device will swing in one of the sides. Remember where it swayed, and we turn on the device to the ends of C1-C2, while we do not change the polarity of the battery. We do everything again.

If the arrow has deviated in the other direction, then we change the wires in places: C1 is marked as C2, and C2 as C1. The meaning is that the deviation is the same.

Now we connect the battery in compliance with polarity with the ends of C1-C2, and the ohmmeter is on A1-A2.

We achieve that the deviation of the arrow on any coil is the same. We double.check again. Now one bunch of wires (for example, with a number 1) we will have a beginning, and the other. the end.

We take three ends, for example, A2, B2, C2, and connect together and isolate. It will be a star connection. As an option, we can take them to Borno on the terminal, march. Stick the connection diagram on the lid (or draw a marker).

Switching triangle. the star did. You can connect to the network and work.

Connection (check) of the engine

Naturally, before starting to assemble something, the electric motor must first be connected and checked. In old washing machines, two options for performing engines are found: older and high.quality, has a closed case with a impeller, with two feeding conclusions and more new. four conclusions, no impeller, cooling occurs through the openings in front and back through which the windings are visible.

The old version does not require any capacitors to start. the starting winding is cunningly connected and is disconnected inside the engine with a special mechanism. Thanks to this, no difficulties with the connection should arise: both conclusions are connected to the 220 volts network. The disadvantage of such an engine is that the direction of rotation of the shaft is predefined by internal connection and is not subject to change. As a rule, this direction is clockwise and therefore it will be necessary to use the left thread for fastening the stone.

The option more has four conclusions of two windings: working and launch. You can distinguish them using a multimeter: the resistance of a working winding is about 10 Ohms, launching. about 40 Ohms. Perhaps the resistances will differ from the indicated, but slightly. The launch winding must be connected via a 4-5 μF capacitor to a voltage of at least 400 V. I met composite capacitors for such engines: two sequentially connected 10 μF per 300 V. That is, in this way the maximum permissible operating voltage of the finished capacitor rose. The use of a composer of two with low voltages (at least 300 V) is possible, but undesirable. Capacitors should use non.polar!

You can check the engine at all without capacitors and starting winding: Voltage 220 V. Submitted directly to the working winding. With this connection, the motor will start without load in an arbitrary direction. To set the direction of rotation of the shaft, you need to connect the launch winding and capacitor. For sandpaper, you need to set the direction counterclockwise

The connection diagram is shown below, if the shaft rotates clockwise, you need to change the connection of the starting winding.

In many publications on the Web, I saw such a statement that it is not necessary to connect launch windings at all, and the direction of rotation is set at the start manually. Supposedly when using the starting circuit, the engine will burn. I can explain these speculations with only one way. one wrote stupidity, and the rest was written off from the first. I can say with confidence: it is possible to connect the start winding, through the capacitor 4-5 μF, the starting circuit should always be connected, without any additional buttons. And if the motor is in good condition, such a connection is safe and completely harmless to it.

Revolutions regulation

During the operation of the tool, it becomes necessary to work with different dimensions of materials, so you need to be able to adjust the speed to the larger or lesser side. To do this, you can use a dimmer or a trigger from a manual electrical appliance, because they allow you to adjust the voltage supply and, accordingly, the speed of rotation of the disk.

A more complex way to regulate the revolutions is to apply a tacracker. With it, you can adjust the speed of rotation without losing engine power

Attention, you need to connect a tapacker using a microcircuit. It levels power when the load on the shaft increases

The desired chip can be bought or made independently.

Circular saw device

Being a really useful tool, the circular has a fairly simple design. Its main nodes:

  • The bed is the frame on which the main units are mounted;
  • a countertop with a slot for a disk;
  • engine with a rotation transmission system;
  • Cutting tool, dick disk.

Optionally, the device can be supplemented by a pusher that provides progressive advance of the workpiece to the disk, and various lifting mechanisms that regulate the depth of the saw.

The principle of operation of the circular saw (circular) is that the rotation of the motor shaft is transmitted to the cutting tool, a disk with sharply sharpened teeth. The center of the disk is located below the level of the countertop, only its segment is displayed from it. The workpiece is brought to the rotating disk, the teeth bite into the wood, creating an even saw.

Wooden frame

The easiest and most affordable way to make a bed for a machine involves the use of ordinary boards or thick plywood for these purposes. In this version of the design, the executive node is placed directly under the table (countertop), in which a slot of the corresponding dimensions is made for the cutting canvas.

The frame made of wood is reliable and easy to manufacture

As an example, we will consider the option of manufacturing a bed with a height of approximately 110. 120 cm, designed to fix the manual circular saw on it. The length of the countertop of this design can be changed in small limits at their discretion.

note! The height of the structure, if desired, can be adjusted, taking into account the growth of a person working on the machine. And if necessary, processing on it of very long boards, the dimensions of the countertop can be increased to the required value. At the same time, you will have to worry about the installation of additional supporting legs.

The most convenient material for the manufacture of countertops is a multi.layer glue plywood with a thickness of at least 50 mm. However, for these purposes, other materials may be selected (organic glass or fiberglass slabs, for example). As for such a common material as a wood-based plate, its use in this case is undesirable, as not providing sufficient surface strength.

For the manufacture of a wooden basis, you will need the materials listed below:

  • sheet iron blank;
  • Standard sheet of thick adhesive plywood;
  • a pair of bars with a cross section of 50h50 mm;
  • thick boards with a type of size 50 x 100 mm;
  • a steel corner necessary to increase the stiffness of the guide attachment;
  • a circular saw;
  • Two clamps.

In addition, you will have to stock up on the next set of tools, without which the assembly of the machine is simply impossible:

  • classic screwdriver and electric drill;
  • Simple woodcuts or electrician;
  • measuring instruments (square, roulette, ruler);
  • portable mill for wood processing.

In the absence of such a cutter, it will be possible to use the help of friends or neighbors who have a milling machine in their farm.

Additional information: Some home masters prefer to make countertops from kitchen tables that have served their term. However, this design will not differ in durability, since the source material has been exploited for a long time in a wet room. That is why it will be wiser to make all the structural elements from new blanks, which at the same time will allow you to take into account your personal tastes and preferences.

Making countertops

Work on the manufacture of this part of the equipment is carried out in the following sequence: we start with the marking of a piece of plywood, carried out with the calculation so that its edges are flush with the edges of the prepared sheet of iron. After marking, using a hacksaw or an electric jigsaw, you can cut a plywood blank of the required size. If desired, it will be possible to process its edges with a cutter, although it is not necessary to do this at all (the main requirement presented to this element is its reliability, not attractiveness).

Upon completion of these operations, the surface of the countertop is carefully processed (grinned) with an emery skin of medium granularity.

Then, on its lower part, the position of the slot under the saw disk is preliminarily outlined. To do this, it is necessary to determine the size of the sole prepared for the installation of a circular saw. For the convenience of measurements, the disk from the saw is simply removed, after which it will be possible to easily determine the size of the seat.

For the convenience of marking the countertop, the saw disk is removed

At the end of its preparation, you should take a circular saw and try on it at the installation site. If necessary, the position of the points of its fastening is adjusted (at the same time, the contours of the slot under the saw disk are clarified).

The finished countertop from plywood is closed with a steel sheet mounted on it using self.tapping screws. It will subsequently apply a special marking to the working surface, which allows you to adjust the position of the wood blank in the process of processing it.

What is the circular saw for

Before starting work, it is necessary to determine the main tasks of the sawing machine. If you just need to saw firewood for the winter, or produce elementary carpentry work like making a fence. a strong table with a slot for a saw disk. Such options are popular in rural areas.

Of course, there can be no question of any safety and functionality when using such a device.

Some of these “models” have a shaft for fixing the knives of the rubbish or a landmark. As a rule, the bed is cooked from the corner or channel, the electric motor is fixed on it from the factory ventilation, and by the pulley, torque is transmitted to the disk. It makes no sense to describe the technology of manufacturing such a machine.

Another thing is if you want to do carpentry work. In this case, a coordinate table with guides is needed, which are fixed at different angles.

Since on such a stationary saw you can work with small blanks. you need to take care of the security of the operator. It is advisable to provide for adjustment of the rotation speed and the possibility of a light change of disks with different diameters.

connect, circular, switch, stanin, frame

Circular on the motor from the washing machine

Be sure to set a protective casing above the disk, and close the rotating parts of the drive with lids. The starting device is equipped with an emergency switch, and the Stop button is located in an accessible place and is made large.

How to make a circular, observing the balance between savings, functionality and safety

Consider the main nodes of which a home circular saw consists. You can make them yourself, but in the presence of certain skills and tools.

Stanin for circular

The frame can be made from a metal corner (channel) bought from scrap metal collectors. If you have the means, contact the warehouse of metal rolling. The legs are permissible to make from old water pipes, connecting them with corners.

A good version of a home.made metal rolling bed

It is necessary to use electric welding. Be sure to strengthen the corner compounds with a bloom. The upper part of the bed (on which the table will rely) and the podium for the electric motor is made from the corner with a side of at least 50 mm.

If the machine is equipped with wheels for movement. they should be with steel rims and have fixators. The higher the mass of the bed, the more stable the machine will be, and the safer the work will be.

What to make a table for a circular saw from?

The working surface is made of steel, duralumin or silumin sheet. It is permissible to use textolite, plexiglass or moisture.resistant plywood. A galvanized tin is stuffed on top of the plywood.

The main condition is that the material should not crack from vibrations, have a smooth surface and prevent deflection under a weight of at least 50 kg. If the countertop cracks or skewed, the circular disc is jammed.

Universal homemade table for circular saw and milling. I recommend this video for viewing

This will lead to injuries and corruption of the workpiece. The use of popular OSB and wood-based materials is undesirable. These materials are unstable to vibrations, and can collapse at the most crucial moment.

There are two options for manufacturing a working groove for a circular disk:

The disk should protrude above the table no more than 1/3 of the diameter.

For any work, from sawing firewood to carpentry. reliable lateral emphasis is needed. It can be a metal corner or a solid bar. To adjust the working gap, you can provide parallel grooves on the countertop or simply fix the emphasis using clamps.

The lateral emphasis should be parallel to the plane of the disk. The slightest deviation will lead to its jamming.

Which engine to choose for circular saw?

You can’t install an “eye” electric motor. It is necessary to calculate the power. For a 350 mm disk, a 1 kW motor is required, for a diameter of 170 mm, 500 watts are enough.

A good option is a motor from an old washing machine.

It is designed for prolonged work with the average load. If it is supposed to work with a disk of more than 350 mm, you can use a power plant from used ventilation.

Large electric motors, as a rule, are installed on damper (shock absorbers), which prevent excess vibrations.

For a stationary saw, this is unacceptable, since a belt or gear drive will not provide constant engagement.

Therefore, the engine is fixed on the rigid and solid base. To adjust the tension of the belt pulley, it is possible to move the motor.

How to make a drive?

The best option is a wedge.shaped belt. You can use a clinic drive belt complete with pulleys from a car motor.

What is a cuneiform program and how to calculate it, watch in this video.

The belt transmission guarantees a certain safety when jamming the disk (for example, a nail in the workpiece). Unlike hard gear gear, the belt slides on the pulley, preventing the destruction of the circular disk.

If the electric motor does not have a speed control, you can make interchangeable pulleys of different diameters. This will make it possible to use the disks of all types, for various working turns.

Disk shaft. an important detail in the circular

Perhaps the most responsible detail of a home.made circular saw. It is unsafe to engage in artisanal manufacturing from a piece of pipe, so it is better to order it from a good turner or buy a ready.made one. The same goes for attachment for bearings. For savings, you can use hubs from a car.

Stationary circular saw with your own hands. drawings and photos

Hello Dear Readers and Subscribers of the Blog Andrei Noac.

This time I will tell you about how to make a circular saw at home using a manual saw, and turn an old working engine from a washing machine into a mini-pylorama drive! DIY Circular Saw Drink is quite expensive for everyone and I hope for you it will become an integral tool in the household.


It is with the help of such a device that you can carry out the cut of the material, and even more so at any angle and choose the necessary section. Often, each of us wants to save on buying expensive equipment and tools, so we have to turn on our brains and show a little ingenuity.

Next, I will tell you how to make a circular device from a manual saw.

So, let’s begin. None of the machines can do without. As our option, we use a pair of wooden goats (as an option you can use metal), connect them between themselves with a 50 × 150 mm board.

Machine gun: 1. goats; 2. boards 50 × 150 mm.

We fix the table on the prepared base. It, in turn, is formed from two steel rectangular plates measuring 200 mm × 4 mm.

Between themselves, the plates are binded by a jumper on one side and the other. We fasten with a screw.

The internal edges of the plate should be strictly parallel to each other, it is extremely important! The gap between the plates is installed 12 mm (the recommended gap within 10. 12 mm).

Below I bring a detailed and more visual drawing:

plywood jumper; 2. steel plate; 3. liner; 4. saw disk; 5. screws; 6. screws with a secret head; 7. bed board.

After the boot is fixed to the installation of a hand saw in our prepared gap between the plates. To do this, drill holes in the plates for secret screws. We adjust the diameter of the holes for our fasteners (in the drawing under number 6). With this operation, we will maintain the smoothness of the plates.

Particular attention should be paid to the centralization of the saw disk. It should be strictly parallel to the plates and should not have deformations.

As soon as the parallelity is achieved, we screed our design with screws. We insert the liner with a slot under the saw disk. The desktop is ready, after that we mount it on the bed with screws with nuts, again, take the fasteners the one that you have.

From the bottom of the bed we attach a 220 V socket to power a saw, and a shield with an emergency shutdown button.

So the frame of the circular is ready for the first launch. As you can see everything to madness, just. Cheap and angry, and for what assistant in the farm!

Build Your Own Sliding Carriage Panel Saw

We collect the drive

And now I will describe how to make a sawmill from a washing machine. A good detail for our circular will serve as an electric motor of the washing machine. We dismantle the engine from the housing and check for performance. Engine connection I describe slightly below.

And so let’s start with the bed. We make a frame of a metal corner with a size of 3-4 mm or use a wood-mounted plate. In our case, the desktop is made from a sheet of plywood. Naturally in the sheet we cut out a technological opening for a saw disk.

We adjust the width from the used saw disk with a small margin. We prepare a bar. He will play the role of racks. We fasten the electric motor to the desktop, having previously drilled the holes for its mount. The brackets with holes for the bolt will serve as fastening. We collect the structure.

The principle of operation of the electric motor from the washing machine on the circular is the transfer of movement of the shaft. A small pulley is pressed on the shaft. Large pulley is pressed, respectively, on the shaft of the disc saw.

Binds pulp outputs or stream drive belt.

We select the profile and size of the belt depending on the number of streams on the pulleys and its width or depending on what you have at home.


  • Small pulley is better to use with streams. This will not let the belt slip and will not lead to its rapid wear. If, nevertheless, for which, then the reason put the usual pulley, you will have to pave 3-4 transverse grooves. This operation will not let the belt slip.
  • Select the drive belt depending on the distance between the pulleys or adjust the distance under the belt.
  • Val, washer and nut should be regular from the old circular. This will prevent all kinds of injuries during work.

How to connect a motor and carry out proper speed adjustment?

In our case, the adjustment of the electric motor speeds will allow you not to lose power with increased load during operation. If you connect the engine without a revolutionary speed control, nothing good will work, because this will lead to the fact that the revolutions will be maximum. So let’s talk about how to make a speed controller.

Before starting adjusting the speed of the electric motor, it is necessary to check it for performance, otherwise you never know, it is faulty.

To do this, examine the engine, if there is no visible damage, it is necessary to make sure that its components are damaged by. To do this, analyze the engine. We find an excitement coil, popularly called a shoe. At least 2 or more wires should go from it. In the figure, everything is clearly visible:

After we figured it out and found the shoes, we begin to measure the resistance of the windings. To do this, we set the minimum resistance and touch the wires. We need to choose two coils on which there will be more resistance value than the rest. If we leave only two coils as it is, the only thing we only measure the integrity of the windings.

Features and service life

In manual power tools, such as: angular grinder (angular grinder), circular saw, electric screwdriver, drill. collector engines with sequential excitement are used. They can work on constant and on alternating current.

In most cases, a regular power grid 230 in 50 Hz is used to write them down in most cases. Previously, a network of 380 in a professional tool was used. Now, with the growth of consumer power in single.phase networks (offices and residential sector), professional power tools for 220 in.

Collector engines have a large torque and starting moments, compact, are easily made for increased voltage. The torque here is a decisive. With a low mass of the machine, it is just suitable for manual power tools. But such electric motors have disadvantages and weaknesses. One of these weaknesses is the brush knot.

Brushes from pressed graphite with fillers rub on the copper plates of the collector and are subjected to mechanical wear and electricity. This leads to an increase in sparking and increases the fire and explosion hazard of the power tool. Mineral dust getting inward accelerates wear. Although the fans provided for by the design blow air out, dust and cement can easily get inside. During downtime, if the tool was unsuccessfully laid, dust easily gets inside. In practice, this is a constant phenomenon.

Brushes of an electric motor from pressed graphite

Another drawback of the power tool is frequent breakdowns of the gearbox. This happens just due to a large starting moment. The advantage turns into a disadvantage. With a breakdown of the gearbox, you have to change the tool, they usually are not subject to repair. Unfortunately, industry, in an effort to reduce the cost of products, does this due to the quality. If you want to use a good power tool. pay a lot of money.

The scheme of the revolutionary regulator

Modern circuits of revolutions of the angular grinder are built on the principle of skipping with a semiconductor key only of the power of the power of one or both half.waves of alternating current. Simistors (symmetrical thyristors) are used as a regulator of the length of the half.waves in such devices, so they are sometimes called simistor regulators. The figure below shows a simplified diagram of such a device, sufficient to explain the principle of its action, and to the right of it. a diagram of a full period of alternating current before and after regulation. Here, the shaded areas correspond to the power, which is transmitted to the electric motor from the power source through the simistor regulator.

On the circuit, the wave of alternating voltage is indicated by the wave icon, and the “M” with the letter “M” is the engine of the corner grinder. In a simplified form, the regulator includes two RC champs, dinistor and simistor. When you press the K1 switch, the alternating voltage is supplied to the electric motor M and the regulator circuit. The current flowing through a variable resistor R1 begins to charge the capacitor C1. The time of its charge is determined by the resistance of the resistor R1, depending on the position of its engine, which, in fact, sets the time parameters of the regulator. After a full charge of the capacitor, the voltage at the point of its connection to the dinistor increases to the nominal, the dinistor opens and supplies the voltage to the control electrode of the simistor. The capacitor C1 is discharged. The moment in the regulator’s work diagram is shown by a bold vertical feature. After the simistor is opened, the voltage is supplied to the angular grinder engine in the first half.period.

When changing the polarity of alternating current, the voltage transition occurs through zero, so the dinistor and the symistor are closed. In the negative half.period, everything is repeated, and the inclusion of the simistor also occurs with a delay determined by the parameters of the R1C1 chain. The regulator even at idle works with a certain delay in turning on the simistor. This is due to the fact that although the moment of supply of current with resistance R1 to the capacitor C1 corresponds to the voltage transition through zero, it should still increase to the level of breakdown of the dinistor. The figure below shows the dependence of the power supplied to the engine of the corner grinder, on the temporary shifts of the control of the dinistor pulses. In the first case, the resistance of the resistor R1 is minimal, so the charge C1 occurs quickly, and in the second. the maximum, so the capacitor is charged more slowly.

How to calculate the starting mechanism

For an engine from 1 kW, it is recommended to put a contactor, and for 1.5 kW and above it is simply necessary. Conventional button posts are not designed for such a load, and at best they will simply break, and in the worst will lead to a short circuit or other dangerous accident.

The contactor is designed in such a way that when the low.current signal is supplied, it is safe to switch the fishing line for a trimmer with a high load. Based on the fact that its face value is indicated in the current strength (amperes), the engine power should also be reduced to this parameter.

For single.phase “engines”, the formula I = P/U is used, where P is the nominal power (W), and U is the network voltage (c). If you have a 1.5 kW circular saw, you will need a contactor for 7a: 1,500W / 220V = 6.8A.

The result is rounded to the face value. In this case, this is 7a. Given that such a face value is rare, you can take a more popular one in 9a instead. The main thing is not lower, otherwise it will quickly worn out and will fail. By detailed parameters, you can choose the contactor in the same axiompleus that I mentioned at the beginning.

With a three.phase connection, the contactor is inappropriate to use, since with the same power there is less current strength. The smallest common nominal for 380V. 9A. Based on the formula p = i × u × cosφ, where cosφ is the power coefficient (by default is 1.7), at 9a, the load on the network will be: 9a × 380V × 1.7 = 5 814W (5.8 kW).

This is too powerful a household circular drive. Therefore, if you are going to put a saw on a “three.phase”, quite ordinary button fasting is quite enough.

When choosing a contactor or button fasting, pay attention to the degree of dust.proof. If you are going to keep the saw on the room and only temporarily use on the street, then IP54 is enough. If it is long.term in the open air, and the probability of falling in the rain is allowed, then take the IP65 or higher. This is a complete protection against dust pollution, and from water splashes flying from all sides.

Even if all the electrician is hermetic, still cover it from the rain with a film. Moisture can not only close contacts, but also contributes to the occurrence and spread of metal corrosion.

It is better to take the contactor in the case with the thermal relay that protects from the burning of the windings on the coil. Otherwise, a separate electroteal relay will be needed. Usually goes as an accessory for a contactor, but in the circular it is simply necessary.

Read which engine to put on a circular 220V

If the electric motor works above the limit of its power or suddenly the saw jamming, the temperature of the livestock elements begins to grow sharply. The bimetallic plate in the thermal relay is deformed and launches the mechanism that breaks the chain. As a result, the tension disappears in a split second and the coil winding remains whole.

In addition to the adjustment range, electric relay is distinguished by the operation time. In this case, the optimal delay before the operation is up to 3s., Otherwise, the winding will have time to burn out. Given the high load, the main thing is to take a suitable type of wire of sufficient cross.section.

Making countertops

Work on the manufacture of this part of the equipment is carried out in the following sequence: we start with the marking of a piece of plywood, carried out with the calculation so that its edges are flush with the edges of the prepared sheet of iron. After marking, using a hacksaw or an electric jigsaw, you can cut a plywood blank of the required size. If desired, it will be possible to process its edges with a cutter, although it is not necessary to do this at all (the main requirement presented to this element is its reliability, not attractiveness).

Upon completion of these operations, the surface of the countertop is carefully processed (grinned) with an emery skin of medium granularity.

Then, on its lower part, the position of the slot under the saw disk is preliminarily outlined. To do this, it is necessary to determine the size of the sole prepared for the installation of a circular saw. For the convenience of measurements, the disk from the saw is simply removed, after which it will be possible to easily determine the size of the seat.

For the convenience of marking the countertop, the saw disk is removed

At the end of its preparation, you should take a circular saw and try on it at the installation site. If necessary, the position of the points of its fastening is adjusted (at the same time, the contours of the slot under the saw disk are clarified).

The finished countertop from plywood is closed with a steel sheet mounted on it using self.tapping screws. It will subsequently apply a special marking to the working surface, which allows you to adjust the position of the wood blank in the process of processing it.

Device and principle of operation of a disc saw

The manual disc saw differs from the end saw with the absence of a bed with a rotary table, as well as the placement of the handle. But in general, both models are similar in the internal device, the principle of operation and do not differ in the complexity of the design. The following figure shows the device of a manual circular saw.

The composition of the unit includes the following main elements.

  • Upper protective casing with a hole for ejecting sawdust.
  • The case in which the electric motor is located and the start button. Some electric saw models can work from batteries. In this case, the housing also houses the battery block.
  • The lower (mobile) protective casing, which automatically closes the cutting element after it exits from the workpiece.
  • Saw disk. Attached to the gearbox shaft using a nut or bolt.
  • Parallel emphasis. Allows you to make even cut without using additional devices.
  • Supporting plate (sole) of the unit. Thanks to it, the tool is installed on the workpiece or tire at different angles.
  • Depth regulator. With it, you can adjust the output of the saw disk relative to the supporting plate.
  • The control regulator of the sole angle. Allows you to tilt the unit for sawing at an angle.

This tool works on the following principle. Power from the mains or battery enters the start button that breaks the chain. When you press the start key, the current begins to enter the electric motor. Below is the power circuit of the unit.

The electric motor starts and transfers rotational movement through the gearbox to the saw disk. The unit is installed using the sole for the workpiece or the guide tire, after which the process of both longitudinal and transverse sawing is performed.


The main malfunctions and their signs

Typical faults of manual circulars include the following situations.

  • The saw does not turn on. A network cable, electric fork, start button or electric brushes may be faulty.
  • The engine engine is very hot. Such symptoms can be the result of an inter.seal circuit (cliff) in the coils of the anchor or stator, as well as an too intense mode of operation of the unit.
  • The gearbox of the apparatus is overheated. Overheating of this node can occur due to the failure of the bearing or lack of lubrication on the gears.
  • The brushes sparkle. This usually happens due to their excessive wear.
  • A burning ring is visible around the engine collector. If during the operation of the unit there is a circular spark around the engine collector, then its appearance can cause a malfunction of the anchor winding or clogging of the space between the lamelons of the collector of graphite dust.
  • The unit does not develop the required power. Power drop can be due to the drop in voltage in the network, a malfunction of the engine windings, wear of electrical brushes, and the trigger malfunction.
  • During operation of the unit, the rattle and other extraneous sounds are heard. These symptoms can be caused by a breakdown of the gears of the gear or a malfunction of the bearings.
  • The engine is buzzing, but the unit does not work. Perhaps jamming in the gearbox occurred.

Dismantling of the tool

Almost all malfunctions of electrical disk saws cannot be eliminated without disassembling the device partially or completely. Full disassembly of a hand.based electrical saw using the Interskol unit is performed in the following order.

  • Unscrew the adjusting screws of the angle and depth fixed on the sole of the device.
  • Press the Reducer shaft button and use a hexagonal key to unscrew the bolt holding the saw disk.
  • Putting the lower protective casing to the side, remove the circular disk.
  • To remove the support sole, first unscrew the fasteners on its lower side.
  • Further, it is necessary to remove the ziger ring with two screwdrivers, a stopping rod on which the sole rotates to change the angle.

Insert the screwdriver into the gap between the hull and the sole, then push it away and remove it.

Next, you should disconnect the gearbox of the unit by twisting 2 screws.

Having removed one half of the handle, you will see the module of the smooth start of the engine and the start button.

connect, circular, switch, stanin, frame

On this, the full disassembly of the disk saw ends. disk saw repair

When starting to repair the unit with your own hands, it is not necessary to disassemble it completely to clarify the reasons for the breakdown. Some malfunctions are characterized by specific symptoms by which you can determine the problem and already purposefully disassemble this or that part of the device.

The saw does not turn on

If when you press the start button, the engine of the unit “is silent”, then the first thing to focus on is the network cable, provided that there is electricity in the outlet (connect the device to another outlet for verification).

To check the electric cable, you need to disconnect the handle. This will help to get to the contacts to which the wires of the network cord are soldered. Further, with the help of a tester, call each wire, pressing one probe to the soldered contact, and the second. to the pin of the fork.

If the network cable is intact, then in search of a malfunction do the following.

  • Blind the entire chain by the tester, starting from the cable entrance to the unit to the launch button. You should also check the contacts of the button at its input and output with the key pressed. In normal condition, the torn chain should be closed. Call all the wires after the button going to the engine brushes.
  • If everything is in order with the conductors, check how much the electrodes of the brushes have worn out. After wear of the electrode 2/3 of the initial size, it should be replaced. Brushes, regardless of how much each of them has worn out, change in pairs.
  • If the brushes are in good condition, then, most likely, the engine has failed. In his windings, a cliff or inter.flip.circuit could occur. In this case, it is better to entrust the engine repair to specialists who will rewind the stator coils or anchor.

The engine heats up

The unit can heat up excessively, for example, with its intensive use, as well as when sawing hard wood or the use of a saw disk with a large number of teeth, when the load on the engine increases significantly. Also caused by overheating of the malfunctioning motor associated with the windows of the stator and anchor, which are eliminated only in the service center.

Brushes are burning

Strong sparking from under the brushes is caused by excessive wear, when the spring can no longer press the electrodes to the collector with the required force. To replace the brushes, you need to disconnect the engine cover or remove them through special holes in the engine housing (depending on the power plant model).

Jammed the shaft during operation

This malfunction may happen when for any reason, a stopper is pressed during the tool. It is designed to fix the shaft when replacing equipment and should be used after a complete stop of the engine. Otherwise, the Stop Stop rod breaks down, and its debris fall into the engine, causing jamming. There are frequent cases when this leads to deformation of the anchor shaft. Also, the consequence of pressing on the stopper can be the split of the gearbox body, the fragments of which can damage the gears and provoke their jamming. To solve the problem, you will need to replace the anchor, a stopper leading (large) gear of the gearbox and its body.

In some cases, the gearbox can jam with the complete destruction of the bearing.

The saw stops in the process

The engine stops in most cases cause a cavity worn electrical brushes. Когда контакт между электродом щетки и ламелями коллектора нарушается, происходит выключение агрегата.

Often, when buying brushes for a given apparatus, products with a short conductor connecting the electrode to the plate come across. This conductor is located inside the spring and does not allow it to be completely imprisoned. Когда электрод изнашивается до определенной длины, то прижим его к коллектору прекращается, поскольку этому препятствует короткий проводник. If you, examining the brush, find that it is not yet worn out and the spring is not unclenched, then the part should be replaced.

The gearbox body is very hot

The rapid heating of the gearbox occurs if the shaft bearing is unusable, on which the gear is fixed and the equipment is attached. In this case, in addition to heating, you can replace the appearance of extraneous noises in this unit node. It is necessary to disassemble the gearbox and change the bearing. The gearbox will also heat up if it is not enough lubricant or it is completely absent.

The saw does not gain power

If during the use of the unit you noticed a drop in its power, then it is first recommended to check the voltage level in the network. Sometimes even a slight drop can negatively affect the power of the power tool.

Also, loss of power can be observed with wear of the bearings of the anchor or gearbox bearing. In this case, extraneous noises will be heard, previously not characteristic of this unit. By their localization, you can determine where the problem bearing is located. in the gearbox or engine. To replace bearings, you will need to disassemble the disk saw. How to do this was described above.

If during the operation of the unit is not heard, the engine still poorly develops momentum and power, then pay attention to its collector. Usually on it you can see a circular spark (fire ring). This can happen due to the inter-flip closing of the anchor coil or the accumulation of dirt between the collector lamps.

Expand the engine housing and carefully inspect the collector (the place where the electrodes of the brushes glide). It consists of parallel stripes (lamellas). There is a small gap between them. When this gap is clogged with conductive graphite dust formed during the wear of the brushes, a short circuit occurs between the lamels, and a burning ring around them appears.

The problem will be solved by replacing the worn brushes and cleaning the gaps between the lamellas using a toothbrush, cotton wool and alcohol, followed by polishing the plates with fine sandpaper.