How to connect your Bosch hob to the mains

Installation of the built-in electric stove to 380V

If there is a need to connect the VP to a 3-phase 380V network, then a 5 cable with 5 cores is used. In this case, the appropriate socket and plug are selected. In a 3-phase network, they have 5 contacts. The lower flat is responsible for the ground, the upper for zero, and lined up for the phase.

Direct connection to the built-in electric stove is carried out according to the diagram on the back of the plate with the inscription N3. The connection principle differs from 1-phase in the way of connecting the wires responsible for the phase. That is, ground is also connected, zero is fixed through a jumper, and the L contacts themselves are separate wires. With this method, less stress will be placed on each core. This will greatly reduce the likelihood of a short circuit if the stove is operating at full capacity.

with an article on the topic. How to choose an oven, where the most popular and reliable models are considered in detail.

How to install an outlet. step by step instructions

First, you need to cut the cable taken out of the socket to a length convenient for installation. Since the VVG wires are rigid, it is better to leave the ends with a length of 10 cm.

After that, they are cleaned. The insulation is removed by about 10 mm. Often, the outlet is labeled with the recommended stripping length. After that, the prepared cores are installed.

Brown and blue wires are installed on the sides of the socket, and the multi-colored core is in the center. The center wire is ground. It usually has yellow-green insulation. Other wires can be of different colors, but always solid. It is important to observe the polarity in the connection. The brown core is fixed on the L pin, and the blue one on the N.

Next, the connected socket is inserted into the socket box. Its fixation is carried out with special screws included in the kit.

Requirements for electrical wiring and its laying

To turn on the built-in electric stove, the use of a cable coming directly from the electric board is required. That is, it is important that it be routed directly without the use of junction boxes with junction. It is necessary that the cable only feeds the hob. The fact is that such equipment is very powerful, so if other equipment works from the wire, then it can overheat, causing a short circuit.

If the house or apartment has old wiring, while a powerful outlet with a direct cable from the shield or meter is not provided, then you will need to lay a new separate line. From the desired location of the outlet, a vertical strobe is made to the ceiling. Next, horizontal slitting is carried out directly to the point of cable connection. If in the future it is planned to use stretch ceilings, then the wire can be fixed directly on the floor slab, since in the future it will be hidden.

Note! The hob is a reliable but not timeless kitchen piece of equipment. Perhaps, over time, it will break, and there will be a need to replace it. For this reason, it is advisable to initially lay an electric cable with a cross-sectional margin that can safely power a more powerful built-in electric stove.

The laying of the mowing line for the electric stove is carried out with 2 types of cables: VVGng-Ls or NYM. Their bandwidth is selected based on the power of the built-in technology.

Table 1. The ratio of the cross-section of the cores and the power of the hob.

These types of cable are used to lay lines directly to the outlet. They consist of a mono-core, therefore they have poor flexibility. For this reason, flexible wires are used directly from the plug to the hob: KG or PVA. They are often included in the standard equipment of the electric stove, so they do not need to be purchased separately.

The diagram shows several connection methods, depending on the mains voltage. To connect to a 220-240 Volt network, the topmost diagram is relevant.

All terminals at the hob are marked and the wiring diagrams to them are standard: 1. L1, 2. L2, 3. L3, 4 and 5. N.

To connect the wires to the terminals of the hob, we need an asterisk screwdriver. I usually use an electric screwdriver with an appropriate attachment for this purpose.

To connect to a voltage of 220-240 Volts, we install jumpers. one between contacts 1. 2, the second between contacts 2. 3.

Now we connect the cable to the terminals of the hob, in accordance with the above diagram. Below is an example of how the connection should be made in accordance with STB IEC 60173.

Color coding: Yellow-green. PE (ground) Cyan (blue). N (zero) Brown. L (Phase)

It is important, when connecting the connecting cable, to leave the length of the grounding wire (yellow-green) slightly longer than others. This is necessary so that even with excessive tension on the cable (for example, damage to the cable clamp or it was not twisted), the protective wire must be torn off last and thus it will maximally fulfill its protective function.

To protect the cable from strain, be sure to hold the cable clamp securely. The cable must not slip out from under the clamp. If not, tighten the clamping screw.

The hob is ready to be connected to the mains.

How to connect a Bosch induction hob

Built-in hobs are replacing classic electric and gas stoves from the market. This type of household appliances is functional, more economical, easy to operate and has a beautiful appearance.

Hob hobs are connected separately from the oven, monoblock or in combination (the top can be gas, and the bottom. electric, and vice versa). Installation on your own is not a problem, but there are a number of nuances. Below we will tell you how to properly connect the hob to the mains at home.


This is the most modern type of equipment for heating food in the kitchen. The average power of such a surface is 7 kW. But we are talking about the consolidated capacity of equipment.

How to connect the induction hob correctly. Schemes, choice of cables, sockets, machines.

When connecting the hob, you may encounter problems that make not only an ordinary user think, but also an experienced electrician:

We will consider all these points in detail below. But first, let’s decide on possible additional purchases. To connect the hob you need the following materials:

First of all, understand for yourself that the hob must be connected with a separate wiring line directly from the switchboard. It is not allowed to power it from an existing common junction box in the kitchen or from already mounted outlets.

The cable must be necessarily three-core and copper, and which brand VVGnG-Ls or NYM is up to you. Which cable is better and how they differ can be read in detail in the article “4 differences between NYM and VVGnG-Ls”.

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The most important thing is to choose the right cross section. The code of rules SP31-110-2003 compiled on the basis of GOST and PUE states that for slabs it is necessary to choose a cross-section of at least 6mm2.

But apparently here we are talking about the preliminary installation of wiring in the apartment, when it is not yet known what power the hob will be installed. Therefore, initially a cross-section of 6mm2 should be laid, sufficient to connect most of the existing models.

If your power is less than 7 kW, and you are sure that in the future you will not buy a new, more energy-intensive stove, then you can navigate according to the following table:

And what to do if the cable has already been laid (VVGng-Ls 32.5mm2), but it turned out to be of a smaller section than is needed for the maximum possible power of the hob (7.2 kW). At the same time, there is neither the opportunity nor the desire to re-slash the walls.

In this case, you can protect yourself in two ways, although you will have to accept the fact that you will not be able to use all the power of the panel:

That is, if you do not yet know what kind of hob you will have, feel free to lay 6mm2. Just keep in mind that low-power panels have small terminal blocks, not designed for 6mm2. And correctly, it is not always convenient to directly connect such a wire, you can break the clamp.

A prerequisite for installing the hob and oven. this is the connection of these devices through an RCD, or a differential automatic with a leakage current of 30mA.

Simple circuit breakers will not be able to provide protection in the event of insulation damage and leakage to the frame.

    In the shield, the phase wire of the cable (usually brown, gray or other colors other than blue and yellow-green are chosen for the phase) are connected to the lower terminal of the diffautomat without the inscription N or with the number 2

If you do not intend to run the cable directly into the panel, then you will have to install a separate socket under it.

Using a plug is a more convenient option in terms of maintenance and operation of the hob.

The socket must be installed at a comfortable height. Recommended distance from the floor. up to 90cm.

20161221_Induction Hob_Install

In this case, it is not allowed that the socket outlet is on the same level with the hob. It would be best to place it to the right or left of the instrument.

If you want to install an oven next to it, then the socket must be below the oven level. Usually this distance is at the level of the legs of the kitchen.

It is also impossible to do too close to the floor, keep in mind the likelihood of flooding and water supply leaks!

Which outlet to take? With a low-power panel up to 3.5 kW (usually two-burner), you can connect everything through a European socket and a corresponding plug.

In addition, if you originally took a 36mm2 cable, then it will be a big problem to put it on the plug contacts. Therefore, it is preferable to use a special plug and socket for plates, designed for currents up to 40A.

If you have an induction hob with a power of more than 3.5 kW, then connecting through a regular plug and socket is all the more prohibited.!

The location of the phase and neutral wires in the outlet does not play a significant role. The main thing is to correctly connect the grounding conductor (from above to the grounding contact).

But when connecting the plug, it is advisable to observe the “polarity”. It is not for nothing that manufacturers mark the terminals on which the phase and zero should go. But even if you confuse the panel, it should still work properly.

You need a wire to connect the plug. It does not always come with the kit. In the absence of a standard one, it is necessary to purchase a three-core PVA wire. The wire cross-section must correspond to the power of the device (see the table above).

You strip the cores and crimp with an NShV tip to ensure better contact.

The big inconvenience of such models is that they “stick out” from the wall very much. 5-7cm.

Consider this point when assembling the kitchen in advance.

If the socket protruding a few centimeters does not suit you and you want to neatly hide everything in a socket box or a junction box, then you can do this in two ways:

First, let’s define the wires. On many models, a connected cable already comes out of the panel, but it has 4 cores. And you have only three in the box. How to be?

The fact is that such hobs are simultaneously designed for both single-phase 220V connection and two-phase 380V. In this case, one half of the burners will work from one phase 220V, and the other from the second.

Some people think that the second phase is used only for control supply. This is not true. Power is distributed evenly across both phases. To connect the whole thing to the usual 220 Volts, simply remove one core to the side and isolate it.

Remains zero (usually blue wire), ground (yellow-green) and phase (brown, black or other colors).

It is possible to combine two phase conductors into one through a ferrule. For example in many Bosch panels. where the cable is not removable, this is how it was originally done.

There is also a variant with a 5-core cable. Such panels are usually of high power from 7 kW and above. They are originally designed for 380V. To connect them to the 220V network, you need to connect two wires in pairs.

For example, put the black and brown wires on the phase, and the blue and gray wires to zero. The earth is yellow-green remains solitary.

But if you strictly follow the rules, then such a connection is not entirely correct. Since the protective conductor PE must be of the same cross-section with the phase ones. And you will have it twice as thin.

Now you need to connect the wiring in the socket with the cable going to the panel. Select the GML sleeves corresponding to the cross-section of the veins.

If the cross-sections of the cores are different, for example, 6mm2 comes out of the wall, and 4mm2 goes to the panel, then on one side (smaller) the sleeve is sealed with an additional wire.

After that, the ends are pressed in with a press with pliers and insulated with electrical tape or thermotube.

Now all this can be neatly hidden in a socket box.

Casing is inconvenient because, firstly, the connection is not collapsible, and secondly, a special tool is needed for crimping. Not everyone has a press available, and such connections cannot be squeezed with pliers.

In this case, the KlK-5S junction box will come to the rescue. In addition to a screwdriver, nothing is needed here, and the outgoing cable can be disconnected at any time.

connect, your, bosch, mains

True, her contacts can be quite delicate, so do not overdo it with tightening force.

In addition, its overall dimensions, unlike powerful sockets, are small and the whole thing can be conveniently mounted behind kitchen cabinets.

After all the work done, you can start directly connecting the cable to the terminals of the hob. On the back of the panel there should be a sticker, drawing or graphic designation of the factory wiring diagram.

For a single-phase network, choose a circuit that is most often denoted as 1N.

According to this scheme, terminals numbered 1,2,3 and terminals 4,5 must be connected with jumpers.

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These copper or brass jumpers must be supplied with the hob. Usually they are located in a separate “”, in the same place as the terminals.

If you do not install these shunts, then you will only have a part of the hob to heat.

Often the same problem can arise during operation, when, due to poor contact and heating, one of the jumpers burns out.

Before connecting, the insulation is removed from the PVA wire and the conductors are crimped. Here you can use tips NShV, NKI, NSHPI. Before installation, check if there is enough free space in the terminal box for mounting certain terminals.

Sometimes you have to shorten them, or even abandon some kind of.

Jumpers are installed first. According to the diagram for a single-phase hob, mount them on terminals 1-2-3.

After that, connect the phase conductor to the terminal and tighten the contacts.

To connect zero, mount a jumper between the fourth and fifth terminals.

Insert the zero core of blue into the terminal and tighten the contact.

The last free vein. connect the protective grounding to the socket marked with the “grounding” symbol.

Here are some connection diagrams for different models of Bosch, Electrolux, Zanussi, Hansa, Gorenje hobs:

Panel connection theory

The hob, built-in type, connects to a separate mowing line with an outlet capable of withstanding a current of 32 to 40 A and providing a reliable earthing. The lead-in cable contains three copper wires with a cross-section of at least 4 mm². Modern electrical wiring in the apartment also allows connection to a four-wire power cable.

There are two types of sockets for connecting panels:

  • with three contacts; Connecting the hob to one phase
  • with four contacts.

Panel sockets and cables

Electric Hob Installation How to install Electric hob in worktop & wiring

If you independently connect the hob with the existing plug at the end of the cable, it will not be difficult. But to connect to the mains cable from the stove, where there is no plug at the end, you already need some knowledge.

For example, a cable with four cores extends from the panel, and only three power wires come out from the wall. This means that the panel needs a two-phase connection, and there is only one in the apartment.

In this case, the technology is as follows: the brown and black wire from the cable from the hob is twisted together and connected to the phase wire of the power mowing line that comes out of the wall. The blue wire of the cable (neutral) is connected to the neutral wire of the power supply. There remains a protective ground wire of yellow-green color, it is connected to the same ground wire in the power mowing line.

In the event that wires of the same color leave the wall, using a multimeter, you need to find out which of them is zero and which phase, and determine the integrity of the grounding conductor. The resulting wire connection must be insulated.

Before connecting a hob that already has a plug on the cable, it is imperative to check the correspondence between the power wires and the contacts inside the socket. Sometimes they can be different. To do this, the socket is disassembled, and using a multimeter, the correspondence of the connection is determined, if necessary, the wires are swapped.

Induction panel: connection step by step

Connecting the induction hob to the network is not fundamentally different from installing a conventional hob, to make sure of this, the step-by-step instructions are presented below. Let’s consider how the induction panel is connected to the mains.

Power cords are of 2 types: three-core, early version, and four-core, newer version. To connect a flush-mounted panel, you need to purchase a power cord that matches your power outlet in the kitchen.

Open the connection cover. Look for a rectangle on the back of the panel, covered with a metal plate. Unscrew it with a screwdriver.

Hob connection diagram

We connect the cord and terminals.

After removing the back cover, you need to find the terminals of the device. Insert the strain relief first into the hole. We hold the cord with a plate. This is to prevent the wire from falling out. Then run the cord through the strain relief. Do not tighten the screws yet.

Connection to terminals

Remove copper strip.

Find the wires just above the hole. If an old-style induction cooker is connected, then there should be three wires, if a new model, then there will be four wires: two phase, one neutral and one ground.

The neutral terminal is located in the center, the phase conductors are on either side of it, and the earth terminal is at the bottom. Before starting to connect the wires, you need to check if there is a copper jumper connecting the neutral and ground wires. If you find it, just disconnect.

Connect the wires.

Align the wires with the terminals. The cable is connected to the panel with a brown phase wire, a blue neutral wire and a yellow-green ground wire.

To connect the wires, you will need to unscrew the terminal connection screws and install the wire in their place.

The first is to connect the ground, this is a yellow-green wire. Then neutral (blue wire). After that, we connect the brown phase wire to one of the two phase terminals. We install a copper jumper between the two phase terminals, which we removed from the neutral wire. This connection is suitable for apartments where the supply voltage is 220 V. Tighten the screws fastening the supply cable.

Check the strength of all connections, otherwise the machine will not withstand and you will need to repair not only the terminal block of the induction panel, but also all the wiring.

Hob wires

Tighten the power cable.

After connecting, check if the power cable is taut, it should not hang, but it should not be overstretched either.

Switching on the induction hob.

After connecting the power cable and applying voltage to it, turn on the panel and check its performance, in accordance with the passport data.

For correct operation and convenient control of the induction hob, an electronic control system is used, in contrast to the gas hob, where the adjustment is carried out by mechanically turning the shut-off valve. This solution is quite convenient and functional. You can monitor in real time the mode of each cooking sector of the panel.

connect, your, bosch, mains

Connecting electric and induction hobs

When buying a freestanding kitchen electric stove, in most cases, to connect it, you just need to plug the plug into the outlet. But many do not purchase a complete set, but only its upper part. the hob.

We propose to consider how to do it yourself to connect the hob Electrolux (Electrolux), Zanussi, Bosch (Bosch), Gorenje, Hansa, Samsung (Samsung), Siemens, Ariston and others, as well as the cost of such a connection in specialized companies.

connect, your, bosch, mains

Frequently asked Questions

No, for the hob, you must use special power outlets that can withstand a high load current. Let’s explain in more detail. The power of a typical hob is about 7 kW, which means, according to Ohm’s law, the load current will be 32 A (I = P / U = 7000 W / 230 V ≈ 32 A).

Considering that ordinary sockets are designed for a current of 10 or 16 amperes, then it is impossible to connect the hob through such a plug connection, as this will lead to heating of the contact connections, which in turn can cause a fire. By limiting the current with a circuit breaker, for example 16 A, you will not be able to use the full power of the hob.

Ideally, separate electrical circuits should be used for the oven and hob. If it is not possible to lay separate electrical circuits, then the oven can be connected to the wires of the hob. How to do this is shown illustratively in the figure:

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On the RCBO (as the people call the diffautomat) 16 A with double terminals, we connect the wires of the hob and the input power circuit. To the RCBO output we connect a conventional 16 A Euro socket (type F).

The protection of the power circuit is organized depending on the power of the hob. For typical 7 kW devices, it is enough to install a 32 A RCBO.

It all depends on two main factors. how much power is consumed by the oven you purchased, and what section of aluminum wiring is connected to this socket? The installation of a dedicated mowing line and a plug socket from the switchboard is recommended for all electrical equipment over 2kW, but this position is purely advisory. You can independently determine the load of the electrical circuit section for the entire kitchen or a group of rooms, which also include a plug socket with an oven.

You need to find out if the conductors of the electrical wiring in the wall will overheat when you turn on such powerful electrical equipment. To do this, in the passport of the heating appliance, find out its power, as a rule, it is indicated in kW or W. Then, determine the cross-section of the conductors routed to the outlet. If you do not know the cross-section, you can use one of several methods proposed in this article on our resource:

By the size of the cross-section, you can find out the throughput of your electrical circuit, for example, in accordance with table B.52.2 of GOST R 50571.5.52-2011, the permissible load for an aluminum two-core cable in the wall will be:

2.5 mm 2. 14.5 A or 3.3 kW; 4 mm 2. 19.5 A or 4.4 kW; 6 mm 2. 25 A or 5.7 kW.

Knowing the power of the oven and the cross-section of the wires of the electrical wiring, compare the throughput of the electrical circuit and the connected load. For example, if your oven will consume, say, 3 kW and electrical wiring made of aluminum 2.5 mm 2. then its bandwidth allows you to transmit 3.3 kW for a long time. However, note that the existing electrical wiring can normally withstand the operation of the oven, but other powerful electrical appliances cannot be turned on at this time.

The hob, in fact, can be powered both from a single-phase electrical circuit and a three-phase (in the latter case, two out of three phase conductors are involved). Connection options should be described in detail in the user manual and also shown on the nameplate near the terminal block.

An example of a hob label is shown below.

As you can see, in your case, it is enough to connect the neutral conductor to the “N” terminal, the protective conductor to the “PE”, and any two of the three phase conductors to “L1” and “L2”.

The installation of the device must be carried out only after the cabinet for the hob and the kitchen furniture that will be located in the immediate vicinity of the stove are assembled.

Ways to connect different panels

How do I connect the hob to the mains? It all depends on what type of panel is in front of you: electric or induction.

Ways to connect an electric stove

This is the most difficult and responsible option, because the power of the hob is large, and it strongly affects all components of the electrical chain: from the distribution cabinet to the outlet. If the panel is installed in an apartment building, where the project is based on the use of only electricity for cooking, then the socket for the stove in the kitchen is already installed in accordance with all electrical safety rules. Therefore, it remains only to install the panel in the exact place that is determined by the project. Usually it is easy to find it by the hood, which must be mounted directly above the intended installation site of the oven.

Ready-made socket for the hob according to the project

If an electrical household appliance is installed in a private house, where all communication networks are carried out exclusively according to the calculations of the owner himself, you will have to spend a certain amount of time and calculate the maximum power limit, the possibility of installing such a stove.

Attention! The best option in an old house is to run a separate reinforced cable with an “automatic” directly into the switch cabinet, which powers the entire system. If this is not possible, the installation of the electric furnace must be abandoned.

Old wiring may not withstand the power of the hob, it will start to burn

How to choose a socket for the oven and hob

Immediately it is necessary to make a reservation that both household appliances can be one- or three-phase, hence it is necessary to “dance”, choosing an outlet to connect the hob and oven. But there is one more caveat. Many manufacturers of hobs do not complete appliances with plugs, and some, in general, go on sale without a power cable.

Therefore, advice! There is no need to look for an outlet, you can connect directly by connecting the plate cable to the cable from the switch cabinet or connect the second one to the plate terminal block. In addition, if necessary, you can install a mini-cabinet with an automatic machine and RCD system directly in the kitchen.

Single-phase plug and socket with grounding

Now, as for the outlet itself. Everything here will depend on the power of the devices, which varies in the range from 2.5 to 10 kW:

  • Power up to 3.5 kW. 16 A / 220 V socket is used.
  • Power 3.6-7 kW. power socket 32 ​​A / 220 V.

These are sockets for a single-phase network, below for a three-phase network:

  • Power up to 3.5 kW. 20 A socket.
  • Power 3.6-7 kW. 32 A socket.
  • Above 7 kW. 40 A socket.

Attention! All modern sockets are provided with grounding terminals, therefore there are three contacts in single-phase sockets: phase, zero and ground. Three-phase has five contacts: three-phase, neutral phase and ground.

Rules for connecting the hob to the mains: main mistakes and process features

Hobs gradually, but surely, have replaced conventional cookers, becoming popular and demanded household appliances. Today we’ll talk about how to properly connect the hob to the mains. Immediately, we will make a reservation that we will deal not only with electrical and induction models. We will definitely dwell on gas, because they also imply a use case from the mains.

Where to start

Regardless of which device you purchased, it must be installed in the countertop. Therefore, first of all, we will consider how to install the hob. Let’s make a reservation right away that the panels are a small device, however, the hob areas may differ for some models. It is from these dimensions that you will have to build on in the process of selecting a cabinet for the hob.

Steps for installing the hob.

How to choose a plug for your hob

It is most correct to buy a plug already with a socket, if one is not included in the kit, in order to ensure proper grounding and operation of the device. The socket must completely duplicate the phases and terminals of the plug, their configuration and location.

Three-phase plug and socket with grounding