How To Correctly Sharpen A Chopper Angle Grinder
How to sharpen with your own hands?
Sharpening an ax is the process of forming a cutting edge. It occurs on a mowing line where two chamfers are cut on both sides of the blade at the same angle. In order to ensure the same chamfers, uniform and symmetrical sharpening, you will first need to make a template, which is usually cut out of a piece of tin with scissors. Before starting work, the template is applied to the blade, the amount of work is estimated and marked with a mowing line marker, limiting the sharpening area. This must be done on both sides of the blade.
In addition, it is necessary to prepare a tool that can be used as:
- Electric grinder.
- Angle Grinder.
- Abrasive bar.
It is most convenient to use an electric grinder, but in the absence of it you have to use what you have. An experienced master gets a good result on any device, here the main factor is the availability of the appropriate skills. Before starting the process, it is recommended to study special drawings.
Product design and varieties
There are different designs of axes, which are conventionally divided into groups by purpose:
Figure 1. Ax design
- Plotnitsky. Blade straight or slightly rounded, medium size and weight.
- Building. Slightly different from carpentry, usually has a slightly increased size for the convenience of hammering nails or dismantling various structures.
- Meat. Used for chopping meat, has a large size with an elongated blade that allows you to separate pieces of carcass with one blow.
- Cleaver. Compact and massive tool with a thick chisel-like striker. Designed for splitting logs, not used for other work.
- Lumberjack. Used for chopping branches and separating the tops of the whips. for greater amplitude and economy of effort has a long handle (ax). It is not currently used for felling trees, although some specialists in this field are still available.
- Hunting. Compact in shape, usually tapered just behind the blade to reduce weight.
- Tourist. reduced size, the handle is usually plastic. Used on hikes, where you have to carry everything on yourself, therefore compactness and lightness are highly valued.
The main and most common mistake is metal overheating. The result is a vacation and a loss of working qualities of steel, it ceases to keep sharpening, becomes dull after a few minutes of work. Overheating is most often caused by improper work with an electric grinder, when the metal is not cooled and is sharpened non-stop. With great diligence, the ax can be completely disabled when it has to be hardened again.
The second common mistake is using an angle grinder for sharpening. It is intended for completely different work, it is almost impossible to form a smooth and high-quality ax chamfer. There are experienced craftsmen who manage to perform quite a decent sharpening in this way, but for most people this option does not bode well.
It is also not recommended to work on unusable, old equipment, with uneven rotation or a beating circle. The ax blade is held against rotation, and beating can lead to injuries, destruction of the circle and other undesirable phenomena.
Important! All mistakes are not so much the consequences of a lack of experience and skills, but the results of haste or carelessness. Most often they are due to the desire to quickly return to work. However, such an approach does not bode well, and the need to redo the work will only take up extra time. If you work carefully, thoughtfully, follow the progress of work with proper concentration, then most mistakes can be avoided.
On a grinder
Sharpening an ax on a sharpener is much easier than manually.
The ax is held with the cutting edge counter-rotating, the central plane runs tangentially to the rotating abrasive wheel.
With even small skills, it is easy to form an even chamfer, grind off a neat and uniform working edge.
However, there are also negative aspects of working on an electric grinder.
Continuity of exposure is a serious problem. From friction, the metal heats up strongly, which creates the threat of overheating and changes in the crystal lattice of the material. It is necessary to keep a container of cold water close at hand, into which the ax must be constantly lowered to cool. This distracts from the sharpening process, but helps eliminate overheating.
During work, you need to constantly check with the template, check the angle and other parameters of the chamfer. Most often, they first make a preliminary sharpening on both sides, after which they bring one of them until a continuous burr appears along the entire length of the blade, turn the ax over and sharpen the second chamfer until the burr breaks off. Then the edge is finished by hand on an abrasive bar.
Special devices have been developed that hold the ax in a stationary state and help to obtain a uniform, even chamfer with a constant angle. However, they can only be used for axes with a straight cutting edge, so they often work with the tool in hand.
3 ways: How to properly sharpen an ax at home and not be mistaken?
The state of the working tool determines the quality and efficiency of its use. In this regard, the ax makes increased demands, since the specificity of its use provides for high loads on the cutting edge. It produces not cutting, but chopping movements, and constant impacts quickly destroy the sharpening. However, if the cutting edge is formed correctly, taking into account the specifics of the work and the characteristics of the material being processed, the period of effective work between sharpening can be significantly increased. Let’s consider this issue in more detail.
- Product design and varieties
- What determines the method of sharpening an ax?
- How to sharpen with your own hands?
- Sharpening angle
- Chamfer width
- Standard errors
- Correct sharpening at home
- On a grinder
- On sandpaper or a bar by hand
- Angle Grinder
- Handling precautions
You also need to choose the optimal sharpening angle. For a construction ax, it is 25-30 °, carpentry tools are sharpened at 35 °. Choppers sharpen at 40 °. In this matter, it is not the angle itself that is of primary importance, but the shape of the cutting edge. There are three types of them:
Figure 3. Ax sharpening angle
- Straight. Chamfer is flat, uniform along the entire length of the blade.
- Convex. The chamfers protrude somewhat outward.
- Concave. The chamfers are sunken, like a straight razor blade.
A straight chamfer is a versatile option suitable for any kind of work. A convex chamfer is made when working with material of different density, which greatly consumes the tool blade. Concave chamfer allows you to keep sharpening for a long time, but is only suitable for more delicate, precise and accurate work.
Correct sharpening at home
The sharpening technique depends a lot on the type of abrasive used for chamfering and forming the cutting edge.
Techniques for working with different tools are fundamentally different from each other, depending on the method of removing the metal layer.
The choice of the best option is usually determined by the following factors:
- The presence of this or that tool.
- Possession of skills and experience in sharpening in this way.
Each sharpening method has its own admirers, who make strong arguments in favor of this or that method, however, it is impossible to name the ideal option. All technologies demonstrate their own pros and cons, so you should consider them more carefully:
The advantages of this sharpening are as follows:
- Speed of execution. There is no need to take the tool to a repair shop, as you can sharpen it yourself.
- Low costs. angle grinder is inexpensive, and it can be used for a long time for many purposes.
- Ideal for sharpening kitchen knives.
- One of the easy ways to sharpen.
To avoid injury when working with an angle grinder, observe the following safety precautions:
- Use protective equipment (gloves, goggles).
- Be careful when handling the product as it is very sharp.
- Fix the angle grinder in a stationary position.
- After sharpening, sand the surface of the knife.
Sharpening angle grinder
You can use this method if there is nothing else to sharpen the knife. The method has its pros and cons.
Sharpening of knives with an angle grinder on a grinding wheel: in case of emergency
A knife is an object that every person uses. Thanks to this tool, we can cut food into beautiful slices and just cut something off. But often knives lose their sharpness, so below we will tell you why they are blunt, sharpening methods and safety rules for this process.
Knife sharpening angle grinder.
- Why are knives dull
- How often do you need to sharpen
- Sharpening methods
- Sharpening angle grinder
- Arguments for”
- Arguments against”
- Safety engineering
Why are knives dull
Many people think about it. It often happens that, having bought a new knife, after a week he began to cut the food poorly. This leads to the fact that the tool is often sharpened, although there is not always time for this.
There are several main reasons why blades quickly lose their sharpness:
- Friction force. If the blade has a softer structure than the product or product, then during the interaction the blade begins to dull quickly.
- Tilt angle. If the product is not cut at a right angle, then an increased load acts on the blade, as a result of which the tool loses its sharpness.
- Strength of steel. If it has parameters over 60 HRC, then it quickly becomes dull. If the metal surface is soft and has a value less than 45 HRC, this point cannot be sharpened, since it is fragile in its structure. You can sharpen products with parameters from 45 to 60 HRC.
- Surface heterogeneity. The material that is cut does not always have a uniform structure. If the knife is harder than the product, then it will slowly lose its sharpness.
How often do you need to sharpen
Knives can be sharpened once a month or weekly. Everything will depend on how often the blade is dulled. But remember that some tools cannot be sharpened:
- with a protective coating;
- in the presence of a toothed surface;
- if the product consists of damask steel or Damascus steel.
Steel knives will often require sharpening.
The disadvantages of this sharpening are the following:
- Insecurity and risk of injury. The wheel of the angle grinder rotates at high speed, so in case of inaccuracy, you can get injured, accidentally break the knife or the angle grinder itself.
- This method is used by experienced professionals. It is not recommended for beginners to use, as you can get hurt or injured due to carelessness and inexperience.
The blade can be sharpened in the following ways:
- Musaty. Used for sharpening tools for daily use. It resembles a file in its structure.
- Mechanical machines that have special recesses where the knife is inserted. The blade can be sharpened using physical force.
- Electric machines that choose the angle of inclination and sharpen the blade of any strength.
- Angle Grinder. This way is for those who like to work with their hands.
How to sharpen a hoe at home
The chopper is a necessary tool for the gardener and an effective tool in weed control. But given that the soil is not ideal, and often stones come across, as a result of which the working blade of the hoe becomes dull during operation. Therefore, it becomes necessary from time to time to sharpen our tool.
For the purpose of prevention, it is worth sharpening the tool every few months. You can sharpen it yourself, or you can do it in a special workshop. You need to sharpen the hoe with a coarse-grained bar. Precision when sharpening the hoe is not needed, the sharpener must be carried out along the edge of the blade, maintaining an angle of 6 to 8 degrees. With effort and very tightly with the hoe, you need to press the sharpener. It is difficult to hold the hoe on the weight while driving the sharpener, so it is worth finding a support for the tool. It is necessary to select a sharpener of a large size, it is convenient to hold it so that your fingers are at a distance from the blade in order to avoid damage. If you started sharpening the tool for the first time, then the blade of the hoe should be grinded down to 0.5-0.7 mm. In advance, check the blade of the working surface of our tool for chips and dents. Defects with a depth of up to 2 mm can be disregarded. You just need to grind the dent itself and the deformed places.
Starting the sharpening process, first of all, we moisten the sharpener with water or lubricate it with machine oil. While observing the desired sharpening angle, it is necessary to observe with concentration that the surface of the chamfer is completely adjacent to the sharpening stone. This guarantees the same angle both in length and height. It is more comfortable to hone from the center to the corners: first of all, we touch the center of the blade and gently move the hoe to the side until the grinding wheel comes off the corner. This ensures the sharpening of even inaccessible places of the hoe. Be sure to sharpen the tool, scrape off and polish the angle grinder. Having previously lubricated the plane with machine oil to save polish.
Or you can upgrade the tool by sharpening the hoe blade on a cone, cutting off the corners. The semicircular blade is designed so that it does not damage the roots of the plant when loosening the soil. The weight of such a tool has decreased to 150 grams, which in turn softens the load on the hands. Using such a tool, work becomes relaxation.
The result of the sharpening quality can be established both visually and by feeling the edges of the working area. The edges of the hoe should not be sharp like an ax. If you are carried away by sharpening the blade, then you should not worry, because after a couple of days of operation it will become dull again. We’ll have to repeat everything back. As a rule, sharpening is necessary on one side of the working surface, since a hoe sharpened in this way will serve for a long period.
How to sharpen a hoe with an electric sharpener?
Today, an electric sharpener is also very often used to sharpen garden tools. But at the same time, it is worth noting the fact that, in comparison with the first option, in this case, you will have to spend more time and effort. But you will definitely be satisfied with the result.
How an electric sharpener is superior to an angle grinder?
- The metal does not heat up so much, and therefore the material retains its physical and mechanical properties. Therefore, it will remain as durable as before processing.
- The process is much slower, and therefore it becomes possible to control the thickness and direction of the angle of action of emery.
- It’s much safer to work. No risk of wheel breakage and no metal chips.
To sharpen the hoe correctly, the tool must be placed in such a way that the blade with the sharpener touches at an angle of 35. 40 degrees, no more and no less. If the tool is too sharp, it will deteriorate quickly enough, especially on dry and dense soil. A large angle will allow you to work long enough, but to knock down weeds with a thick stem, you will have to put in much more effort.
It is more convenient to sharpen from the center to the corners: first, touch the middle of the blade and smoothly move the tool to the side until the circle slides off the corner. Thus, you will be able to process even hard-to-reach places of the working surface. Of course, there will be “blind spots”, places in the middle, where the removed metal will be more or less. So after 5-6 postings, separately, we process only the middle again.
You can determine the quality of sharpening, both visually and by touch. The blade at the end should not be sharper than that of a small ax. In cases where you still overdo it with sharpening, then you do not need to worry much, since in a few days of work it will become dull again. The only thing you have to do is to repeat the whole process. As a rule, one-sided sharpening is performed on the sharpener, since a hoe sharpened in this way will last much longer.
How to sharpen a hoe with a sander?
Currently, a sander is the easiest and fastest way to sharpen the working surface of a garden tool. To do this, we take a regular angle grinder and a thick grinding disc.
Thin discs cannot be used, as when touched with an acute angle they will quickly fray and scatter.
To sharpen the hoe with a grinder, you still need to fix it. For these purposes, you can use a vice, in which the holder is clamped so that the blade “looks” up. Next, set the handle of the angle grinder up (if it is replaceable) and switch to high speed. It is necessary to sharpen the hoe by gradually moving the disc from one end of the blade to the other, while watching and making sure that the metal does not overheat.
It is advisable to carry out this work in 2-3 approaches. But in cases where it is necessary to do this quickly, then you need to constantly cool the metal by lowering it into water or pouring metal from a bottle every 2-3 minutes.
We sharpen from the end of the blade to the base. In this case, when working on a bed, friction will significantly decrease. But when sharpening, you should also not overdo it. Of course, if the metal is too thin, the process of eradicating weeds will be greatly simplified, but the blade of the hoe will become dull in a couple of hours. Therefore, the whole process will have to start over. An ideal sharpening angle of 25 degrees is considered with a blade thickness of 3-4 mm.
With one-sided processing, a lot of metal will have to be removed to achieve the required sharpness. But if the metal layer is removed from both sides, then the desired angle can be achieved much faster.
How to sharpen a hoe?
The chopper is an indispensable tool for creating irrigation furrows. This tool is also used when hilling plants, since thanks to the length of the handle, you can loosen in the most remote areas.
A summer resident’s kit always consists of several types of garden tools, for example, a hoe and its hybrid (hoes, rippers), both factory-made and self-assembled.
But at the same time, it is also worth noting that with frequent use of this tool, it can become dull. But you can still get out of this situation, for this you need to sharpen the hoe. And we will consider how to do this in this article.
How to sharpen a hoe with whetstones?
Until the advent of mechanized tools, garden tools were processed with ordinary emery stones. That is, it was possible to sharpen saws, scythes, axes, knives with ordinary whetstones. But in this case, as it was used, the metal was worn out rather quickly, and therefore it was necessary to “update” it.
It is also worth noting that at present this method is still used for sharpening tools, although not as often as before. But at the same time, some for this work use fine-grained small whetstones, and therefore cannot achieve the desired result.
In this case, it is recommended to use both coarse-grained and fine-grained whetstone. With coarse-grained we make “rough” processing, and the blade is already brought to the required condition with fine-grained.
If possible, choose a large-grained whetstone. long and massive. In this case, it will be possible to erase the required amount of metal much faster. We sharpen from the base to the end of the blade, but with the help of a fine-grained touchstone from the end of the blade to the base we adjust the sharpness. In this case, when driving the tool into the soil, friction will be minimal.
The main advantage of the touchstone is its portability, that is, you can take it with you to the garden and, if necessary, work on the quality of the tool already in the process.
I would like to add that electric sharpeners are also different. In your photo, just a low-speed machine (with low wheel revolutions) that allows you to sharpen without overheating the tool (hoe). But there are also high-speed grinding machines on which you can get an effect similar to an angle grinder.
Electric sharpener as an alternative
Many people prefer a sharpener. Power tools with high speeds are much inferior to this device, the quality of sharpening will be completely different. You will have to work on the sharpener a little more, you will need to spend a little more energy, but the result will please you. Let’s see why a regular sharpener is better than an angle grinder.
- The metal does not heat up, thus, the physical and mechanical properties of the material are not lost, it remains as strong as before processing.
- The process is carried out more slowly, which makes it possible to control the thickness and direction of the angle of action of the emery.
- The emery wheel has a solid weight, which allows you to cultivate any blade thickness as smoothly as possible.
- Work safety. No metal chips, no risk of wheel breakage.
Smart Sharp Kitchen Knife Sharpener by Lantana. Quick Start Instructions
Consider now how to sharpen a hoe. In order for the angle to be correct, you need to place the tool so that the blade is in contact with the sharpener at an angle of 35-40 degrees, no more and no less. Too sharp a tool will quickly deteriorate, wear off when working, especially on dry and dense soil. A large angle will allow you to work for a long time, but a lot of effort will have to be made to knock down a weed with a thick stem.
Before sharpening the hoe, it must be cleaned of soil and other contaminants that may be on it. You need to work from the center to the corners. it will be much more convenient: first, you touch the middle of the blade and smoothly move the tool to the side until the circle slides off the corner. Thus, you can handle even the most difficult to reach areas of the work surface. Of course, there may be “blind spots”, places in the middle, where less metal will be removed, so after 5-6 postings, only the middle will need to be processed.
The quality of the sharpening can be determined visually or by touch. The blade should not be sharper at the tip than a small ax. If you overdo it with sharpening. don’t worry, it will become dull in a few days of work, then you just have to “update” its appearance. Mainly one-sided sharpening is done on the sharpener. it lasts much longer.
How to sharpen a hoe with improvised means and without the appropriate skills
Huge weeds are stepping on your garden and you can’t see the light in this dark tunnel? You will learn how to sharpen a hoe and be in all weapons before the confrontation in this article.!
We sharpen the tool with a grinder
Today it is the easiest and fastest way to sharpen the working surface of a garden tool. To do this, you need a regular angle grinder and a thick sander. It is prohibited to use thin discs, as when touching a sharp corner, they can quickly fray and scatter. High risk of injury, only work with correctly installed metal protection.
In order to sharpen the tool, you need to use a piece in which to clamp the holder so that the blade “looks” up. Then set the handle of the angle grinder up (if it is replaceable), switch to high speed. Sharpening of the hoe is done gradually, moving the disc from one end of the blade to the other, the metal must not be overheated. It is best to complete the work in 2-3 approaches. If you need to do this quickly, then it is recommended to constantly cool the metal by lowering it into water (you can make a watering can out of a bottle, pour it every 2-3 minutes of work).
Sharpening is done from the end of the blade to the base. This is believed to significantly reduce friction when working in the garden. The main thing is not to overdo it when sharpening, since too thin metal will significantly simplify the eradication of weeds, but it will become dull in just a few hours. You will have to repeat this process. An ideal sharpening angle of 25 degrees is considered with a blade thickness of 3-4 millimeters.
Practice double-sided sharpening, as it will increase the strength of the blade edge by 35% by increasing its thickness. With one-sided cutting, you will need to remove a lot of metal to achieve the desired sharpness. Removing a layer of metal from both sides will make the desired angle appear much faster.
How to sharpen a hoe with whetstones
Until the time when power tools were invented for metalworking, ordinary emery stones were used to process gardening tools. Braids, saws, hoes, axes, knives. all this can be sharpened with ordinary whetstones. The tool already has a certain sharpness, in the process of use the metal tends to wear out, it needs to be “updated”.
Not everyone knows how to sharpen a hoe correctly and use fine-grained small whetstones, which do not give the desired result, only wasting your precious time. It is best to use 2 types of tools. coarse-grained and fine-grained. With the help of the first one you can get a “rough version”, with the second the blade is brought to the required condition.
A coarse-grained touchstone must be taken large. massive and long. This is done so that you can make considerable physical effort, how to press it down to the blade. The more mass and length, the faster you can erase the right amount of metal. Sharpening is best from the base to the end of the blade (it will be easier to work), and with a fine-grained whetstone, you can adjust the sharpness from the end of the blade to the base so that friction is minimal when driving into the soil. The advantage of the touchstone is its portability, because if necessary, you can take it with you to the garden and work on the quality of the tool already in the process.
How to sharpen a hoe correctly and how to do it, we figured out. Choose a method that is convenient for you and control weeds with a convenient and effective tool!
Determination of angle and shape
The main task when sharpening a drill is to restore the factory shape. Drills are flat, spiral, center, with one or more edges. Some are designed for wood, others for plastic, metal, copper, etc. According to the purpose of the cutting part, the correct shape is given.
The most popular is the twist drill for metal. It is used for drilling wood, metal of medium and low hardness, plastic. When sharpening such a tool, the apex angle of 118 degrees is maintained (if necessary, it can be changed by 30% up or down). Front angle is 20 degrees, rear angle is 10 degrees.
Angle grinder sharpening
Use an angle grinder only in extreme cases. It can cause injury if it is mobile. In order to avoid unpleasant situations, it is recommended to securely fix the tool on a plywood sheet or insert it into a vice. Also, amateurs make special devices for guiding and holding drills at a certain angle. They are attached to an angle grinder. The result is a convenient and efficient sharpening machine.
For sharpening, an abrasive wheel is installed on an angle grinder. The further course of work is exactly the same as when using a grinding machine:
- The drill is set at the desired angle to the abrasive disc.
- The back surface of one tooth is grinded, then the second.
- The length of the cutting edges is corrected.
- The jumper is being sharpened.
The angle grinder can only sharpen fine drills. Sharpening large diameter solid tools is likely to cause injury.
3 main rules
Before starting work, you should familiarize yourself with the structure of the drill. The tool consists of a shank and a working part, at the end of which there are elements involved in cutting metal or other material:
- two cutting edges,
- flank surfaces (areas behind cutting edges),
A sharpened drill looks like this:
- Two cutting edges are sharp and symmetrical to each other.
- The flanks are chamfered and located below the cutting edge. That is, there is a gap between the part to be drilled and the tip of the tool.
- The jumper is not too thick and is in the center.
In order to sharpen drills with high quality, it is important to organize good lighting in the room. A person must have good eyesight. If your vision is low or the instrument is shallow, you will need a magnifying glass (glasses with magnification).
Using a drill bit
Craftsmen who want to make it easier for themselves to sharpen drills use a special drill attachment. The device looks like a cartridge. Inside is a specially shaped emery stone with a preset angle of 118 degrees. Also on the attachment there are 15 holes for twist drills of different diameters (3.5-10 mm). When turned on, the stone rotates and sharpens the tool. The average cost of the nozzle is 800 rubles. (SPARTA 912305).
For sharpening you need:
- Install the drill bit.
- Insert the drill into the hole of the nozzle of the corresponding diameter until it stops.
- Turn on the electric drill for 20-30 seconds.
Despite the obvious advantages of the nozzle. simplicity and ease of use. the method has disadvantages:
- With the help of the device, it will be possible to sharpen only slightly dull tools without serious damage.
- The bit can be attached to a drill with a neck diameter of 43 mm, and sharpen only at one angle. 118 degrees. For drills in wood, non-ferrous metal, the nozzle is not suitable.
Conical and single-plane sharpening
These are the two most common ways to create a back apex angle.
- A conical clearance angle is formed in drills of large diameter. from 3 mm and above. To do this, hold the product with two hands, press it against a grindstone on emery and gently shake it with equal pressure. Similarly, two teeth are sharpened.
- The single-plane clearance angle is suitable for small drills 1-3 mm in diameter. The teeth are ground in one plane parallel to the emery. In this case, the slope can be 28-30 degrees.
Stages of work
According to the rules, you need to sharpen in a utility room, in a garage or, in extreme cases, on a balcony. Under no circumstances should you do work in the kitchen. Metal shavings and dust will fly around the workplace. It is impossible for it to get into the eyes, digestive organs, respiratory tract. You should wear glasses, and after the end of sharpening, vacuum the room and do wet cleaning.
Drill sharpening consists of several stages:
- Grinding tool preparation.
- Determining the exact angle and sharpening method.
- Sharpening. First, the rear surface of the drill is grinded, then the cutting edge is straightened and the bridge is reduced (if necessary).
- Lapping to smoothness.
When sharpening, care must be taken that the drill does not overheat. Otherwise, the risk of deformation increases. Place a container of machine oil (or, in extreme cases, water) next to it. After drilling each point, immerse the drill in the liquid for 2-3 minutes.
Sharpening on a grinding wheel
An emery machine equipped with a grinding wheel is a universal device. If available, sharpening drills will take a few minutes.
What do we have to do:
- Position the drill at a 60 degree angle to the plane of the grinding wheel. In this case, the cutting edge should take a horizontal position and be parallel to the circle.
- If the drill is large, badly damaged, worn out, you should first use a coarse sharpener for metal, and then a soft one. In other cases, you can use only one circle. for fine sharpening.
- Place your left hand with the tool on the handrail. Secure the drill with your thumb. Grasp the shank with your right hand.
- Include emery. Slide in the drill bit carefully. Press the cutting edge against the surface of the wheel and gently move the tip upward while lowering the shank. Maintain a 60-degree angle when performing sliding movements and do not loosen the pressure.
- Rotate the drill 180 degrees. Place it in the same way (see item 1) and sharpen it (item 4). The main task is to make the rear surfaces even and with the same slope.
- Continue to sharpen the tool evenly on both sides until the cutting edges are sharp.
- Check if the edges are symmetrical. Correct their length if necessary.
- Reduce the jumper if it is too wide. This will help reduce resistance when cutting metal.
The speed of rotation of the grinding wheel depends on the hardness of the material. The harder the drill, the slower it should rotate.
Adaptation for engraver and electric drill
An elementary device for sharpening a drill, which is very simple to make, since it consists of only 2 parts:
- Housing. It is usually solid and made of plastic. It has a ring that locks onto the engraver’s collet and a 60-degree bushing. The drill goes there with a stop, so there is no displacement.
- Small grinding wheel. He grinds off some of the metal.
In everyday life, the body is made of a steel profile pipe. The holes are marked so that their direction is 60 degrees, relative to the longitudinal axis.
If there is no engraver, there are devices for sharpening metal drills on a drill. For them you will need:
- Round tube 50 millimeters. Even a plastic plumbing pipe and a plug for it will do.
- Grinding cone or 60o tilt cutter.
In the plug you need to drill a nozzle around the circumference.
To make a machine for sharpening drills with your own hands, you need to make an effort. Shop counters are expensive (from 50). At home, they are made literally from trash.
The stand consists of 5 parts:
- Emphasis. The drill rests on it.
- Tightening nut with goniometer. You just need to immediately set the stop in the position at which angle to sharpen the drills for metal.
- Clamp for snap. In order not to hold it with your hand and get rid of accidental cranking.
- Cutter. Allows you to move the rig.
For personal use, you can donate a carriage and angle measurer. Here is a detailed drawing of the drill sharpener.
A simple device for sharpening drills, but in terms of efficiency it is not inferior to factory guides. You can make it from a piece of pipes.
To sharpen the drill, you need to do the following:
- The section of the profile is cut to 60o.
- It should turn out so that the profile falls under the line of the cut.
- The jig is attached to the sharpener table with screws or a clamp.
Now it remains to attach the tip to the template and simply rotate it.
A jig for drills for metal with your own hands is simple, but it will make it easier for a beginner to work at times. He can handle any diameter, even the smallest. In addition, soon you will be able to “fill your hands” and sharpening drills with your own hands will not be a problem.
The elementary sharpening tool is an angle grinder and a grinding disc. Regular cutoffs will not work. they are too thin. Since the load is lateral, the disc may burst. Considering that the protection will be from below, the fragments will fly directly into the face or body. Otherwise, you can sharpen an angle grinder drill quickly and without the skills of a locksmith.
To properly sharpen drills for metal, follow the instructions:
- The shank is clamped in a clamp or vise. It will be easier if you immediately set the tilt of 120 degrees so that the angle grinder displays a flat plane.
- the angle grinder should be kept parallel to the floor and gradually remove the metal from the edge.
Every few passes, the edge is “tested” with a fingernail. If it is cut, it means that the drill turned out to be sharpened.
It should be borne in mind that the fast cutter from which the consumables are made is very moody. You cannot overheat it, so you should not get carried away with an angle grinder. Water the edge with cold water regularly and work no longer than 3 seconds.
This is already a special tool for sharpening, so it is easier to work with it. To work with steels HSS and P6M5, medium speed is required.
So, the sharpening machine can be prepared. On the “table” near the circle, you can measure 60 degrees in advance in order to orient to it. Put a glass of water next to it and periodically dip a drill there.
Now you can start:
- The drill is set at the mark of 60 degrees.
- Now, without moving the center, you need to carefully rotate it along the axis. With the left hand we hold the spiral near the edge, and with the right hand we turn the shank.
- Every 15 seconds, dipping into a glass of oil, you need to remove the blunt edge.
You can make exultation with a slope of 120o in advance. to compare. This will make it easier to sharpen drills for metal.
In this picture you can clearly see the degree.
How to sharpen correctly
In principle, it is possible to sharpen drills for metal without “helpers”, with proper skill.
To properly sharpen drills for metal, a tilt measure will not interfere.
Now it’s time to make a drill sharpener. It will suit 2 types of craftsmen:
Beginners who are unable to keep a suitable incline evenly. As a result, the edge is uneven and the drilling efficiency is reduced. Sometimes the drill starts to work even worse than before, and this reduces the speed of work. The adaptations will be useful for craftsmen who have to constantly sit at the emery. In these cases, homemade drill sharpeners are a must.
How the herringbone is sharpened
In fact, the sharpening of a step drill for metal is similar to a standard one. It has the same slope, the only difference is in the form.
In this case, it is better to watch the lesson.