How to cut a PVC edge at home
PVC edging glue. what kind, instructions, edging types
In production, the edging process on the end pieces of Laminated Wood Chipboard depends on the complexity of the design being produced and is largely automated to ensure a high-precision finish. This is due to compliance with the requirements of industry GOST and the need to perform large amounts of work.
There are two types of edging machines:
- rectilinear. They are used for edging products in a straight line only. The edging process is based on the detailing and starts immediately after the chipboard is sawn;
- curved. The machine requires pre-cutting of the parts. a manual milling machine is used for this purpose. The formatted products are fed into the machine and veneered according to specially prepared patterns.
All further work on the removal of overhangs at professionals is also done on machines.
What kind of edging for furniture
Edging materials conceal the interior of chipboard and prolong the life of the furniture. Another task of the edges is to reduce the evaporation of resins with which the board material is impregnated. There are several requirements for edging materials:
- dignified appearance. aesthetics;
- durability and longevity;
- reliable fixation on the edge of the furniture
- easy to mount.
The materials offered by the industry fully meet these requirements. The only thing left to do is to choose.
Paper and melamine
Edging made of paper impregnated with a special resin (melamine) is the most economical option for edge treatment. Dense grades of paper are given additional strength and resistance to external influences with melamine. Working with this material is easy. it does not break, bends at any angle.
The most common material thickness is 0.2 и 0.4 millimeters. For ease of use, the melamine edge has an adhesive that activates when heated.
Melamine paper is not afraid of water and does not fade under the influence of the sun, resistant to scratches and household chemicals. The main disadvantage. it rubs off, it is not durable. It is advisable to put such edges on parts of furniture that are not exposed to constant impact. on the back side of shelves, tabletops.
out of PVC
Polyvinylchloride is a durable material that has found application in various fields, including medicine. PVC edges are suitable for finishing of furniture fronts. The manufacturer produces the material in different colors, it is easy to match or contrast the color of the product.
- durability, long service life with good gluing;
- flexibility. the ability to join to the furniture for any curvature of the edge;
- Resistance to all kinds of effects. chemicals, sunlight, friction.
A wide range of thicknesses (from 0.4 to 4 millimeters) and width allows you to create different types of furniture designs. PVC edgebanding materials are available with an adhesive component or plain. Disadvantage of PVC edging is sensitivity to temperature. the furniture should not be left out in the cold, when gluing can not be strongly heated.
Made of ABS plastic
Expensive types of edge material include ABS plastic. It is usually used in more expensive furniture models. The advantages of thermoplastic edging include:
- The high quality of the material, the lack of harmful components in the composition;
- impact and wear resistance;
- does not lose its color and appearance after a long time of use.
The edging is available in matte and glossy. The disadvantage of the material. high price. ABS plastic is used when high durability is required, operation in conditions of aggressive environments. temperature, chemical attack.
Veneered edges are made of a thin layer of wood, in most cases, in the manufacture of furniture. It is difficult to work with the material at home. experience and knowledge are required. The material is expensive, it is used to decorate veneer furniture.
Acrylic or 3D
Acrylic is available in two-layer edging. the lower part has a volumetric pattern that serves a decorative function, the upper part is removed after gluing and serves as protection.
3D effect on the edge gives beauty and continues the pattern of the main part of the furniture. Things look more solid, the edging works to create the overall look and doesn’t look like a simple edge treatment. Minus is the high price, the advantages are many. from aesthetics to high durability.
Types of finishing
At the moment, there are several ways to give the countertop ends an aesthetic look. Only 2 of these are suitable for making edging at home:
Melamine tape. The glue applied to the tape itself simplifies the process, but the resulting edge is afraid of moisture and unstable to mechanical influences.
Today it is the cheapest and most accessible, so it is very often used in furniture production.
Quite popular furniture edging for facing end surfaces Laminated chipboard. All thanks to the perfect price-quality ratio.
When furniture starts to have a peeling edge, you need to fix it as soon as possible. Otherwise, it will be damaged and you will have to remove the protective film and replace it with a new one.
The chipboard is ugly on the cut and is also exposed to moisture, so the edgebanding must be sealed.
Veneer edges also come off with wooden furniture, but more often with laminated chipboard furniture with melamine or plastic edges.
Cutting the board produces edges that expose the raw woodchip board, which needs to be covered. Depending on which edge the manufacturer uses, there are different repair options.
Adhesive melamine and plastic edges are available in a variety of decors.
The cheapest option is melamine edges, which are made of the same material as the film with which the chipboard is covered. Melamine resin is a very strong material that can withstand high temperatures.
Therefore, melamine edges are usually supplied with a layer of thermal adhesive, which is activated at home with an ordinary iron. A tape with an adhesive layer is put on the selvedge and from the front side, preferably through a clean sheet of paper, is ironed with a warm iron until the thermal glue spreads on the tape and does not stick to the surface of the selvedge.
Melamine edges are thin and have a layer of thermal adhesive on the back, while plastic edges are up to three millimeters thick and have no adhesive.
To glue a melamine edge qualitatively, you need to have practice experience and the result will not always be perfect. The edging is very sensitive to mechanical stresses and is not waterproof (depending on the material and glue used).
Special melamine edging irons are made for gluing melamine edges, but at home you can use an ordinary iron for laundry.
Stronger edges are made of ABS (as well as PVC or PP), which, like melamine, are used for decorative edges on products made of wood-based materials, such as particleboard, fibreboard, or porous honeycomb structure boards.
The plastic edges are evenly colored and the back side is coated with an adhesive. a primer that ensures the adhesive sticks.
In addition to edges, which are used to protect a flat edge, there are plastic strips that are suitable for shaped parts. You can also use veneer. But the leading edge can be glued with a wooden batten.
Melamine and plastic edges are flexible, so they can be glued to curved surfaces as well.
ABS tapes are usually glued with special equipment, but that does not mean that amateurs cannot also cope with it. Hand-applied edging is also possible, even without special tools, requiring only the use of certain adhesives, such as two-component dispersion adhesives, polyurethane adhesives or contact adhesives.
ABS is a thermoplastic that softens when heated, so it is not made with a layer of thermal adhesive and, therefore, when working with it you can not use the same method with an iron, as when repairing melamine edges.
Industrially manufactured edging is always glued with thermal adhesive, no matter what material it is. Gluing with thermal adhesive is the fastest and cheapest technology to glue the edging.
The melted adhesive is applied to the edge just before gluing, so it doesn’t matter, even if the edge is plastic. Thus, assume that every industrial selvedge contains thermal adhesive.
A layer of hot melt on a hemmed edge or even a plastic edge can be applied gently with a thermal gun fitted with a flat tip.
If the melamine edge has come off, you can try to activate the remaining glue with an iron. If the tape doesn’t stick to the edge, you have to use contact glue. Apply a thin layer of it to both surfaces, let it sit for ten to fifteen minutes, then press the tape to the edge.
We will glue the plastic edge in the same way, with the difference that it cannot be ironed with a hot iron. That’s because the melamine tape itself will melt sooner than the adhesive residue on the back side. So the glue on the back side will melt with a heat-air gun.
If the tape does not stick, you can use contact glue or special polyurethane glue again.
There are various chisels and scrapers for trimming edges; practitioners recommend a chisel, a metal saw, and sandpaper.
A tape that is longer and wider than the edge itself is used when gluing the edge. Use an iron to glue the melamine tape, and a contact adhesive to glue the plastic tape.
After the glue has dried or cooled, trim off any excess that protrudes over the edge of the selvedge. A safety knife or chisel is sufficient for melamine, but there are also special knives.
A plastic edging strip can be glued by hand and professionally.
The plastic band, given that it is designed for professional processing, is more difficult to work with. The thickness of two to three millimeters requires the use of special handheld cutting tools or milling machines.
The tool can be a copy router or a form cutter, which we use to create a rounding on the plastic edge. Edges can be cut flat with a joiner’s scraper. We proceed in the same way when we glue a veneer or a wooden lath.
For edging without a thermal adhesive layer, contact or special dispersion adhesive, a brush, screw clamps with fixtures for the leading edge, fiberboard or chipboard substrates, a top mill or an edge mill, a copy mill or a mill with a backing bearing.
Edging in furniture production is necessary to protect the end edges of the product from chips, cracks and other damage, and it also protects against moisture and formaldehyde vapors.
You will learn about what selvedges are, as well as how to glue them and how to glue the selvedge with an iron and a hair dryer, from this article.
How to glue the PVC edging
The laminated particleboard is best fixed horizontally, so that the front edge protrudes over the worktop. The PVC edge must be trimmed with a small margin (about 2 cm).) (fig.5)
Holding the selvedge in one hand, warm up the edge of the selvedge with a hair dryer at about 10 cm. Apply the heat from the glue side (fig.6). In five seconds the glue melts and the edge becomes more elastic, it’s time to glue it.
It is more convenient to glue the PVC edging by two people, one melts the glue and guides the edging exactly along the edge of the workpiece, the other presses the edging with a felt (fig.7). If you are gluing alone, you have to warm it in small strips, not bigger than 25 cm. (fig.8), and then press it on at once (fig.9).
Processing the edges
When all the glued seams have cooled down, trim off the excess at the end with a letter opener (fig.10).
The edges of the workpiece we process first with a mill (fig.(Fig.11), then cut off the excess of PVC with the putty knife. The spatula should be guided at an angle of about 30° with respect to the horizontal, pressing it firmly to the surface of the product (fig.12).
All that remains is to sand down the corners and all the milled surfaces, with felt (Fig.13), (fig.14).
Well, our workpiece (Fig.15) has got a wonderful look (Fig.16), read more on the kitchen website.White useful articles on how to choose the right kitchen to order, how to replace fronts and refurbish furniture, how to decorate the kitchen and living room interior!
How to glue the edge to the tabletop: step by step instructions
For edging the countertop with your own hands use one of three types of edges: PVC strip, melamine tape, ABS edging.
On what material will be selected for the veneering of the countertop, depends on the method of work. For each has its own effective method of gluing.
Before edging the countertop, you should prepare the tools and materials:
- A household iron;
- Construction hairdryer;
- fine grit sandpaper on a block;
- A piece of felt or wallpaper roller;
- office knife;
- metal ruler;
- universal adhesive (if you use tape without an adhesive layer);
Space is needed so that the table can be unfolded without difficulty.
Attention! The sealing lip must match the width and color of the worktop.
PVC edgebanding for worktops
Strips of polyvinyl film are most often used to caulk the ends of Laminated chipboard countertops. They are available in widths from 19 to 54 mm. Average product thickness is 0,5 mm.
It is possible to buy PVC film with or without an adhesive layer. However, the second option is more common. Ribbons are resistant to abrasion, impervious to moisture.
Important! PVC plastic withstands temperatures from.10 to 50 °C.
Algorithm of action when gluing PVC film without an adhesive layer:
- Measure the length of the edge of the worktop to be taped.
- Cut the PVC tape so that its length is 2 cm longer than the edge to be treated.
- Apply the adhesive evenly on the inside of the edge. The best method is to use “Moment” or “88-Lux”.
- Let the tape soak for the time specified in the instructions. Two minutes before finishing, lightly smear the edge of the countertop with adhesive.
- Place the tape on the front end of the table and roll it in with the roller.
- Wait until the glue dries, and then cut away the projecting strips with a knife.
- Trim the edge carefully with sandpaper on a block to make it flat and smooth.
Tip! To cut off the projecting edge accurately, hold the knife so that the blade does not run at an angle, but rather runs flat on the furniture.
How to glue melamine edgebanding to the worktop
Like the PVC, melamine edges are available in widths of 19 mm to 54 mm. The thickness of such products is slightly less. from 0.2 to 0.4 mm.
Melamine tapes have an adhesive layer. That’s why they are easy to glue at home. The disadvantages of the material include its resistance to moisture and mechanical damage.
Pattern of gluing tabletop edges and melamine tape using an iron:
- Warm the iron well. It is important to choose the temperature so as not to burn the paper base.
- Cut the tape 2 cm longer than the end to be treated.
- Apply the tape to the tabletop with the adhesive side and align it along one edge.
- Heat the edge with an iron so that the glue softens and bonds with the end of the table top.
- Rub the edge strips with a felt or smooth them out over the entire length with a roller.
- Wait a few minutes for the adhesive to cool.
- Remove the projecting edge from the end pieces with a steel ruler (press the ruler to the plane of the tabletop and cut off any excess tape and glue with short strokes towards the tabletop).
- Finish the edge of the fine sandpaper.
- Remove traces of the glue with a solvent.
Tip! To trim the edge of the melamine tape, the use of a knife is not recommended. It will cut the edges of the thin material and ruin the appearance of the edge.
How to glue the ABS edge to the edge of the worktop
Acrylonitrile butadiene styrene plastic edgebanding is an environmentally friendly product with a smooth surface. It is malleable on bends. In the home, ABS edging with a thickness of 0.5 to 1 mm can be used. Material with thickness exceeding 1 mm is fixed on the table top only with a special machine in a production workshop.
Important! The ABS edges are bonded to the worktop with an adhesive layer, so they can easily be bonded to it with a construction dryer.
Stages of work with ABS edging:
- Wipe the edge of the countertop with a damp cloth, remove dust and sawdust.
- Wait until the edge is well dried.
- Cut the material to the right length.
- Apply the strip to the table edge with the adhesive layer facing down. Align it to the top edge of the tabletop so that the edge is not undercut on both sides.
- Apply one layer of newspaper to the edge.
- Dry it with a construction dryer and simultaneously press it with a roller. The procedure takes 4-5 minutes, until the adhesive melts and attaches the material to the end of the table.
- Cut off the surplus edge of the material from below with a knife.
Important! The ABS edging is cut with difficulty, there can be small dents. They can be carefully removed with sandpaper.
It differs from the first one in material. instead of paper PVC (polyvinylchloride) is used. Most often it is glued on the same hot melt (in industrial scale by special machines. edgers, but it is possible to glue and manually by usual liquid glues (for example, “Moment”). Comes in several thickness variations. the most common are 2 mm and 0,4 mm (also come in 0,8, 1 and 3 mm). There is a huge number of decors, there are even glossy.
This edging is much stronger than the previous one; instead of shearing on impact it only squeezes a little.
To disadvantages it is possible to carry labour intensity of gluing (if an overhang of 0,4 mm of the edge can be removed by a sharp knife then 2 mm-yu should be cut by milling machine, and it is desirable specialized edging (or on the machine), and these devices are not at everyone).
How to glue the edge to the tabletop
The procedure depends on what kind of tape is used. Below are the instructions for each type.
Edge of PVC
It is progressive and aesthetically pleasing. However, to make the idea a reality, you need to master certain skills. To do this, you will have to train on scraps, which will contribute to the rapid mastering of this method. The edging is abrasion and moisture resistant and can be used for a long period of time. over, it is suitable for absolutely any interior.
In the process of gluing PVC tape, you need to follow a certain algorithm of actions:
- Cut a strip of material that is 2 cm longer than the edge to be treated;
- Warm up the edge with a construction hair dryer (from the side where the glue is applied), or with an iron (from the “face”);
- In order to glue the edge, a special industrial grade hair dryer is used, its heating temperature is 250 degrees;
- If the material used is not equipped with an adhesive backing, it is acceptable to use the composition “88-lux” or any analogue;
- Lubricate the cut strip and wait a certain amount of time;
- 2-3 minutes before its completion, it is necessary to cover the end part with a thin layer of adhesive composition;
- attach the edge to the table top and carefully roll it with a roller;
- After the glue dries, remove the edge with a knife, and then remove the bevel with the blunt side;
- The blade should be flush with the surface of the piece, so that the protruding part of the edge is cut as straight as possible;
- the edges are machined with emery cloth, only this approach can make them smooth and even.
Gluing furniture edging with your own hands
There are two technologies for gluing furniture edgebanding. The first is for those with glue on the back. In this case, an iron or a construction hair dryer is needed. The second is for gluing tapes without glue. In this case, you need a good universal adhesive that can glue plastics and wood products and a furniture roller, a piece of felt or a soft cloth to be able to press the edging well against the cut.
A little about what thickness of the edge tape to glue on which parts. Those edges that are not visible, according to GOST, you can not glue at all, but in general they try to treat them to absorb less moisture in the wood chipboard, as well as to reduce the evaporation of formaldehyde. A melamine tape or 0.4 mm PVC is glued to these edges. Work the edges of the drawers as well (not the fronts).
It is better to use 2 mm PVC for front and drawer edges and 1 mm PVC for visible edges of shelves. The color can either match or contrast with the base.
How to glue the piping yourself with glue
The glue is applied to the melamine edge, it happens on PVC. If you choose PVC, it’s easier to start with thin ones. They are easier to work with, melamine ones are all easy to work with.
Take the iron and a PTFE tip on it.If no nozzle fit a thick cotton cloth. so as not to overheat the tape, but to melt the glue. A construction dryer is also good for this. Put the iron on about “two” while it is heating, cut the piece of tape. Length. a couple of centimeters longer than the workpiece.
Apply the edging on the part, smooth it out, smooth it down. Small pieces should hang down on both sides. We take an iron and through the nozzle or a rag we iron the edge, warming it until the glue melts. Heat the edge evenly across the entire surface. Once all edges are glued, let them cool. Then begin trimming the edges.
It is possible to cut the edges with a knife, both sharp and blunt side. Someone uses a simple metal ruler, someone is more comfortable with a stainless steel spatula.
So you take the tool of your choice and cut off the hanging edges. You cut them close to the material. Then cut off the excess along the piece. Melamine and thin plastic are excellent cut with a knife. If the PVC edging is thicker. 0.5-0.6 mm or more. there may already be difficulties. Such edges can be. if you have one. This guarantees a good result in a short time. It may take a little longer to cut the edges with sandpaper, but the result may be just as good.
One important point: when gluing thin edges the cut of the part must be even, without protrusions and depressions. The material is plastic, so all defects are visible. Therefore, pre-walk sandpaper on the cuts, and then thoroughly dedust, degrease. Only after this you can glue.
Taping with PVC tape (no glue on the back)
With this method of self-adhesive PVC edges need a universal adhesive and a piece of felt or rags. Read the instructions to the glue, follow all steps according to the recommendation. For example, for the glue “Moment” is necessary to apply and distribute the composition on the surface, wait 15 minutes, strongly press the glued surface.
Apply glue and wait, no problem. To press the edge tightly to the cut, you can use a wooden bar wrapped with felt. Instead of a block you can use a construction chisel and also secure the felt on its sole. As a last resort, you can roll up several layers of thick fabric and use it to press the tape to the surface.
The selected tool is pressed against the laid edge, pressing with all its weight, pressing it against the surface Wood chipboard. Smoothing movements are used. So the whole edge is smoothed, achieving a very tight fit. Leave the piece like that for a while to let the glue “grip”. Then the edging can be finished.
progressive and aesthetically pleasing method. True, it requires some skill to implement, but by practicing on scraps, you can master this method as well.
The abrasion- and moisture-resistant edgeband will ensure long-lasting use of the tabletop in any interior.
When gluing a PVC edge band, follow this sequence.
- Cut a strip of finish material 2 cm longer than the edge to be finished.
- Warm the edge with a construction hair dryer on the glue side or with an iron on the front side.
To glue the edges use the industrial hairdryer, with the temperature of heating 250 degrees.
In case you use material without an adhesive base, use glue “88-Lux” or similar to it.
Glue the cut off strip and leave it for the specified time. In 2-3 min. Apply a thin layer of adhesive to the edge of the countertop before the deadline.
The blade of the knife should go along the plane of the part, thus evenly cutting off the protruding part of the edge.
An edge treated with fine sandpaper will be smooth and even.
Properly selected and glued edging will give the countertop an attractive appearance and it will last you for many years.
Such an even and neat edge can also be obtained independently.
Gluing a furniture melamine edge with an iron.
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We apply the edging with our own hands
It is quite realistic to produce such an edging at home
Processing the cuts with PVC edging is possible exclusively at the factory. It is not difficult to order the procedure when purchasing the boards, or as a separate service. But if you only need to repair old furniture, or simply do not want to go to the manufacture, you can treat the chips this way at home.
We glue the edging with our own hands at home
For this purpose it is necessary to buy melamine edges. Also prepare:
- A construction hairdryer or an old iron
- A stationery knife or a construction knife;
- A stand with the function of fixing the parts (a vice or the help of someone will do).
Tools and materials for edging
Let’s get some more dexterity, and we can move on to work.
Clamp the piece with the work piece side up.
The part is fixed and the edge is cut with a margin of a few centimeters, warmed with an iron
Until it cools down you need to use a rag to press the edging tape well
Treat areas of 30-40 centimeters in size gradually. This way there will be less damage and errors.
- Having worked on the entire surface in this way, we move on to the final step. Now it is necessary to cut off the excess material. To do this, take a construction or office knife, holding it at an angle to the board, cut off excess material.
Cut off the excess, first cut off the end parts, and then those that go lengthwise
After the rests are cut off the part, all the edges on the edges of the part are “sanded down”
This way you can work on small pieces, but larger pieces are better left to professionals.
Advantages and disadvantages of home sanding
There are always advantages and disadvantages in self-treatment. As a rule, there are more positive points. In this case, the undoubted advantage is the speed and price of the work. You do not have to wait for the product to come from the production, you do not need to place an order and pick it up. Naturally, by doing the work yourself, you pay only for the edge.
The disadvantage is the limited choice, because on your own you can only apply melamine edging, overlay or mortise profile (which are quite rare).
Treating a small surface with melamine edging is quite easy, and it is better to do it at home. But a large product, requiring the application of PVC edging is better to trust professionals.
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WEGOMA KG94 End trimming tool.
With a single push of the tool, a melamine, PVC or ABS edgebanding of up to 1.2 mm thickness and a width of up to 54 mm can be cut quickly and accurately.
KG94 is made of durable plastic with two detachable blades that work like scissors. If necessary, the blades can be replaced with new ones or ground. Fixed blade is adjustable in reach and angle, this allows you to set a minimum, even gap between the cutting edges of the blades for a high-quality cut.
Photo of different sides of the KG94 trimmer.
Lever and blade operation.
Trimmer KG94 mounted on the workpiece. Depress the lever to trim.
Trimmer KG94 is trimming. Lever partially depressed.
Edging trimmed with KG94 Yellow in the photo. Melamine edging, Wenge. ABS.
If the adjoining edge has been bonded to the workpiece, sometimes a small amount of glue remains after trimming, which can easily be removed by solvent or mechanical means.
WEGOMA AU93 Longitudinal edging tool.
The tool is designed for double-sided, longitudinal edging of thickness up to 0,5 mm and width up to 40 mm. Two knives work on each edge overhang: the main knife cuts the edge overhang flush with the workpiece surface, the other knife cuts the overhang flush with the workpiece surface. angularly chamfers the edge and/or corrects possible malfunctions of the first blade.
The AU93 is structurally composed of two mirrored plastic elements. Half shells that are connected to each other through two guide sleeves with springs inside. Each half-body has three removable, adjustable knives that allow you to work with any side of the tool, or adjust the sides to work with different thicknesses of edge materials. The main double blade has an adjustment to fit the plate. Two additional chamfering knives with adjustable outreach.
Photos of the AU93 trimmer from different sides.
Exploded longitudinal trimmer. The smaller the edge width, the more the springs have to be compressed. When working with laminated chipboard up to 18 mm thick it makes sense to use weaker springs or to omit them altogether.
Half body. Main blade adjustment screw can be seen.
Adjusting screw for one of the additional blades.
New knife set for AU93. A similar kit is available for the end trimmer KG94.
The minimum possible thickness of the workpiece to be processed is 14 mm.
WEGOMA AU93 in operation. Melamine (yellow) and ABS (Wenge) edging.
Melamine and ABS edges are cut to length.
Based on the application of these WEGOMA tools in the production of cabinet furniture made of laminated chipboard, the following conclusions can be drawn.
WEGOMA end trimmer KG94. A tool that is versatile, useful and indispensable. We can confidently recommend it to any furniture maker still using a knife. The trimmer works equally well with melamine, PVC, ABS edging as well as with HPL plastic for edging kitchen countertops. With sharp and adjusted knives, the cut is perfect or close to perfect, needing only a light sanding with an emery board.
The WEGOMA AU93 longitudinal edge trimmer does not always perform so well in practice. When working with a melamine edge, the tool often leaves a little-noticeable, but tactile step, which must be sysfovyvat. Adjustment of the main trimmer blades didn’t get me the results I needed. There is practically no step problem with ABS edging. Additional blades do not justify themselves at all, they work with varying success, depending on the force the half shells pressed against the material and the point of application of this force. An important advantage of the longitudinal trimmer AU93 is that it allows to work comfortably with long, large-sized parts in any spatial position.
Although it worked well, but there was minimal play in the sole (no more than 0.3-0.5 mm), which in such a delicate matter as removal of overhangs sometimes played a cruel joke with me.
Then I ran into a pawnshop edge trimmer Makita 3707 for only 2500 p, so I just could not pass by. It did not have a special edge base to remove the overhangs, as well as other elements of the complete set, so it is quite traditional to have a refinement. That is, the formation of a “step.
To make this step this time I used a piece of 8 mm plexiglass, which I found in the trash)) It used to be a chair, now it will be a router (now I wish I had collected all the large pieces). Marking is done with a sharp awl.
It can be sawed perfectly on a table saw. That is we give it a rectangular shape.
Using a belt sander we even out the edges of the cut.
Shape a trapezoid on the end adjacent to the mill. It would be necessary to make a triangle, so you can handle any internal radius, but then the rigidity of the sole would suffer, so I figured that small radii are rare and did not bother.
Having attached it to the bottom, mark and drill fastening holes. Deepen them to hide the screw heads. This point is checked separately, so that nothing protrudes.
Fix a detail to the sole (in all available technological apertures).
held in my hands. is not very convenient. not enough handle on the sole. As it took the handle from the milling machine.which was used as a. driven nut.
Nut also had to hide. Drilled a 2mm deep recess with a 25mm Forstner mill.
In it I drilled 4 holes for nut roots. did not turn out well in the photo). The nut protruded from the back side, and the length of the screw was excessive, so cut out from scrap and glued on the glue of the padding for the handle. It was not as neat as it was supposed to be, but hell with it.