How to cut corners in boxing

Additional Tips for CUT CORNER

Pull Back

One of the best ways to move back and forth without giving up space is to stretch back. This is a great way to create distance and get away from his blows while maintaining your space. It is best if you have a good sense of distance so that you only do it lightly and do not lose balance.

Grip with Light Strikes, Strike with Hard Strikes

Use light hits or light touches to push him back. And then, as soon as he steps back or moves to the position you want, THEN hit him with hard punches. The problem with hitting hard from the start is that it will be easier for him to defend, dodge and walk around you. It will also make it easier for him to grab you when you invest in punches early. Better to use light punches to get him into position first. One more thing about light hits: even though they are light, make sure you maintain an aggressive presence. This helps maintain psychological pressure, making him more likely to remain passive and give up space.

Use the Drowning Style

The Drowning Style is ideal for exhausting your opponent and getting them to touch you. This style works well for cutting corners in the ring because with this style it is easy for you to push him back and take up his space, but at the same time, it is difficult for him to push you back because he cannot even touch you.

DON’T BE PURSUED (common mistake)

Running straight at your opponent is the worst thing you can do. I really want to be aggressive when you see your opponent running away, but you will never catch him if you follow him around the ring.

The closer you get, the easier it is for him to run away from you. Moving directly towards the opponent allows him to walk to the side. Instead of following him around the ring, it would be better to cut off space for him so that he has nowhere to run. This is why boxing trainers are constantly shouting, “Don’t follow your opponent, cut corners.”

You cannot lock up an opponent by taking up his space,
you lock him, not letting him go anywhere.

Cut off his front leg

Usually, when the front leg goes away, the whole body can go away. When you lock your opponent, try to lock his front leg to prevent it from stepping behind or around you, and it will be easier for you to lock your opponent.

How to Trim Corners in the Ring

Chasing speedy boxers and defensive fighters is a daunting if not impossible task.

The faster you run, the faster they run away! They never stand still for you to hit them, and they seem to always leave the corners. Worst of all, some opponents even hit you with their punches as they run away.!

The answer lies in cutting corners. Your opponent will have nowhere to run if you know how to cut off his space.

Watch my video, where I demonstrate how to corner an opponent.

How to make a corner of a ceiling plinth without a miter box

Few people in apartments or houses have angles exactly 90 °. Small deviations are easily corrected after fitting. But not always. Then you have to mark everything “in place”. under the ceiling.

You will need a finely contoured pencil (hard. it is not so visible on the ceiling, but leaves quite clear marks near), a small piece of plinth, a ruler and a good stationery knife if you work with polyurethane (polystyrene) baguettes or a metal saw to work with other materials.

How to make corners on skirting boards without using special tools

Now take a ruler and connect the edge of the skirting board with the marked mark. If you just put the plinth on the table and cut along the mowing line, the two parts in the corner will still not fold: the inner part will interfere. It can be trimmed later by trying on the ceiling. The second way is to set the piece to be cut on the table with the piece that will be on the ceiling. And cut along the mowing line, but keeping the knife at an angle of about 45 °. It will still be necessary to correct, but much less (and less chance of error).

Repeat the same operation with the second bar. Put it against the desired wall, rest the butt against the adjoining wall, mark the place where the cross is drawn, draw the line and then cut it off. Correction Carried out “dry” without applying glue.

You repeat exactly the same steps for the outer (protruding) corner. Now you know another way to make a corner of a ceiling plinth, and without a scissor or other special devices.

How and how to cut

Working with skirting boards made from different materials means using different cutting tools. When working with a wooden skirting board, it is more convenient to work with a saw on wood. All others, including plastic ones, made of foam and other polymers, are better cut with a blade for metal. The result is a smoother cut, less burr. Saws are usually used when working with a miter box.

Corner design looks attractive

When working with polystyrene skirting boards without special devices, they are cut with a good office knife. Its blade is quite thin and even, the cut is smooth, not wrinkled. If you use a saw with polyurethane or polystyrene, do not press hard: you can wrinkle.

In general, to get used to the tool and material a little, take a piece and practice on it: cut, saw, trim. So there will be fewer problems when working.

How to cut ceiling plinth in corners

The quality of the ceiling finish greatly affects the appearance of the room. Therefore, they try to do everything perfectly, or very close to it. The finishing touch to the design is the ceiling plinth. They give the finish a complete and holistic look. The strips themselves are mounted on flat surfaces simply: on special white glue, but problems arise with the design of the corners. Without knowing how to make the corner of the skirting board correctly, a lot of material deteriorates. How and what to cut it in the corners and tell you.

What is it made of and what is it called

The very first skirting boards on the ceiling were made of plaster. They were cast in special molds and then installed on the ceiling with mortar. Such figured ornaments were called fillets. Today, you can rarely see them: they are expensive, and outwardly they are almost indistinguishable from the cheaper options. And the name is almost lost.

The most popular ceiling skirting boards are made of polyurethane or polystyrene. They are inexpensive, look great, easy to install, have a wide range of profiles and patterns. The width can be from 5 mm to 250 mm. They are used in almost any room, decorated in any style. An exception is wooden houses with a corresponding interior. Wooden products are most often used here. the style dictates its conditions.

There is also a similar plastic finish. It is mainly installed in bathrooms. But even in damp rooms, you can safely mount polyurethane strips. they are not afraid of damp.

You need to cut the ceiling plinth in the corners of any material in one of the ways described below. The only exception is plastic skirting boards: you can arrange such a corner only using ready-made corners.

Using a miter box

If the corners and walls in the room are even, you can use a special carpentry tool. a miter box. This is an inverted U-shaped chute in which the mowing line is marked for cutting at 90 ° and 45 °. The part in which you need to make a gash is laid inside, a saw is inserted into the guides. The part is held in place, cut at the desired angle.

This is what the miter box looks like. Can be plastic, wood or metal

In the case of skirting boards, not everything is so simple: they must simultaneously adjoin two surfaces, therefore they must be pressed against one or the other wall of the miter box. When working with ceilings, they are pressed in the side closest to you.

The sequence of actions when finishing the outer corner, you need to make a gash at an angle of 45 degrees. Place the miter box in front of you. Trying on how the plinth will be located, determining which part of it will be attached to the ceiling. In order not to get confused and cut off the ceiling plinth correctly, put the strip that will be located on the right on the right, the one on the left on the left.

How to cut a corner on a ceiling plinth: install it correctly in a miter box

Press the part that is on the ceiling to the bottom of the miter box. The other side is closer to you and raised. Lean it on the wall of the device so that it does not stagger when cutting. That is, the front part of the skirting board turns out to be turned away from you. Do the cutting direction as shown in the photo below. By folding the two cut pieces together, you get a protruding outer or outer corner.

How to make the outer corner of a skirting board using a chair

First put the sawn-off parts in place “dry”, without applying glue. If the geometry of the corner is not so perfect, you can tweak it a little with a knife. It is easier to cover small errors with a special putty.

The situation is very similar with the inner corner of the skirting board. First you try on which side will be on the ceiling, press this part to the bottom of the miter box, lean the second part on the wall closest to you and make cuts as shown in the photo below.

How to make an inner corner of a ceiling plinth using a miter box

And again, first try on without applying glue, if necessary, slightly adjust. Then apply a thin bead of glue to both surfaces that will adhere to the wall or ceiling.

Your own version of how to use the miter box correctly is shown in the video.

With decorative corners

There is one more, the easiest way. For skirting boards made of polyurethane or polystyrene, use ready-made, factory decorative corners. They are installed in a corner, strips are glued to them closely. It is very easy to cut them if necessary: ​​by a few millimeters with an ordinary clerical knife.

Examples of finished fillet corners

How to get the correct angle

Most of the problems when working with skirting boards arise in the design of corners. Since the surface of the products is complex, it will not be possible to simply cut off at the desired angle: it is also necessary to cut it so that they dock and, preferably, without large gaps. In reality, there are several ways to make the corner of a ceiling plinth perfect (or almost).

How to dock in corners

If the installation of the first corner is completed, we can assume that you have already learned almost everything. “Almost”, because you still need to learn how to join the corners and cut the planks to length. When some part is already glued and there is a small distance to the corner, how not to be mistaken with the length? The answer is simple: leave stock.

At first, you can cut a piece 10-15 cm longer: it will be possible to redo it several times if something does not work out right away. Then you make a corner in the way described above, try it on dry, adjust everything so that the result suits you. Only then can you attach the already cut strip to the corner and mark the place to which it can be shortened. You need to trim at exactly 90 °. It is not necessary to use a miter box. Just try to put the knife (hacksaw) perpendicular to the surface.

Ceilings

Ceiling plinth performs not only a decorative function, visually separating the walls from the ceiling, but can also hide the joints of various finishing materials of the ceiling and walls. Not every interior design involves the use of a skirting board, but more often than not, the overall appearance of the room seems incomplete without it. There is nothing difficult in fixing this element. fillets. almost all types of skirting boards are attached with glue. But the question of how to properly cut the ceiling plinth in the corners of the premises can confuse many. Indeed, even in the simplest room there are internal corners where the plinths of the ceiling plinth must be precisely and beautifully docked. And in a more complex configuration of the room, you will also have to dock the skirting boards, performing the outer corner. In this article, we will look at various options for how to cut a ceiling plinth with and without tools at hand.

First you need to figure out how to cut the ceiling plinth, the answer to it depends on the material from which the fillet is made. At the moment, we sell ceiling skirting boards made of polyvinyl chloride (PVC), expanded polystyrene (polystyrene), polyurethane and wood.

PVC ceiling skirting boards are the cheapest. Dents and creases are easily formed on them, which cannot be repaired, so the product must be thrown away. Also their disadvantage is electrostaticity. the ability to attract dust. You can cut them with a sharp construction knife or hacksaw.

Styrofoam ceiling skirting boards are also cheap. This material is very fragile, it easily crumbles during processing, therefore, it is necessary to cut the expanded polystyrene with a sharp knife or a hacksaw on metal, without making too strong pressing forces.

Ceiling skirting boards made of extruded polystyrene foam are slightly more expensive than polystyrene foam, they are denser and more difficult to cut. However, they crumble less, making them easier and more comfortable to work with. Cut with a construction knife and a hacksaw for metal.

Polyurethane ceiling skirting boards are the most expensive at the moment. They are durable, elastic and moisture resistant, can be easily cut with a construction knife and do not crumble. The disadvantage of polyurethane skirting boards is their dependence on temperature changes. For example, over a gas stove, a polyurethane skirting board will permanently deform and crackle slightly. If you try to process or cut such a skirting board, it may bend or deform in other ways.

Wooden ceiling skirting boards are dense, heavy products that can only be cut with a hacksaw, preferably with fine, dense teeth. You can also use a cloth for metal.

Before proceeding to the enumeration of the ways of how to properly cut the ceiling plinth, I would like to note that there is a possibility not to cut the plinth with great precision. On sale there are special corner pieces, into which the edges of the skirting board are inserted. In this case, it is enough to cut the plinth strip at an angle of 90 °, and the corner element will hide all the flaws. But this method is not always used, since the dimensions of the corner elements are slightly larger than the skirting boards themselves, so the corners in the room will stand out against the general background. Sometimes it can look bulky. However, if the design of the room allows the use of corner pieces for ceiling skirting boards, it makes sense to use them. Further instructions will be useful to those who nevertheless decided to accurately cut the skirting boards at a given angle.

How to trim the corner of a ceiling plinth using ceiling markings

Marking the skirting board on the ceiling also allows you to cut the corner straight and precisely. The only drawback of this method is that it is difficult and inconvenient to keep the plinth plinth suspended during the cutting process. Otherwise, you can mark the cutting angle in this way even more accurately than in other ways. Applying the skirting board to the installation site, all wall flaws and deviations in the corner size are immediately taken into account.

Cutting the corner of the skirting board:

• First of all, two workpieces must be cut at an angle of 90 degrees.

• Then we first apply one plank, resting its end against a perpendicular wall. We draw a line on the ceiling, outlining the contour of the plinth.

• We remove this bar and apply a striker, also resting its butt against the wall. We outline the line.

• The point of intersection of the outlined lines will be the mark at which the skirting board needs to be cut.
• Again we apply each bar in turn and mark the cutting point on them.
• We draw the line from this point to the other edge of the plinth.

We cut off the skirting boards along the outlined lines, join them and apply them to the installation site. Please note that this method is more convenient to cut the inner corners.

How to cut a ceiling plinth with a miter box template

Something resembling a miter box can be done by applying the required cut angles to paper, cardboard or wood. Draw two parallel mowing lines, locate the center, and then set the required angles with a protractor. The advantage of this method is that you can postpone any angle, including more than 90 degrees. Of course, before cutting the corners of the ceiling plinth, you must first check the angle between the walls using a corner and measure with a protractor.

The technique for cutting a ceiling plinth using a painted miter box is exactly the same as using the miter box itself. We press the plinth plinth to one of the parallel lines, then set the hacksaw at the desired angle, which is already outlined, and cut off.

How to cut a corner of a ceiling plinth using a miter box

The miter box is a simple carpentry tool that allows you to cut the workpiece at the desired angle. Most often it is a plastic, wood or metal tray with vertical slots for cutting at an angle of 90 ° and 45 °. There are also more complex miter box designs. for cutting at angles of 90, 60 and 45 degrees. For more professional work, a miter box with a swivel mechanism is used, where the hacksaw can be fixed at any angle to the workpiece.

How to cut a skirting board with a miter box. inner corner:

• We apply the plinth to the ceiling, measure the required length.
• Then we install the plinth strip in the miter box so that the position coincides with the position of the plinth on the ceiling.
• The plinth strip must be pressed against the far wall of the miter box.
• Hold the plinth with your left hand.
• We choose such a position of the hacksaw when the angle is 45 degrees and at the same time the handle of the hacksaw is as close as possible to the left hand.
• We cut the workpiece without making excessive pressure on the saw.
• The next step is to trim the plinth striker. We also install it to the far wall of the miter box.
• Press and hold with your right hand.
• We choose such a position for the hacksaw when the angle is 45 degrees and the handle of the hacksaw approaches the right hand.
• Cut off the skirting board.

Next, we join the trimmed plinths and check the cutting accuracy. For a more accurate orientation, they also say that in order to complete the inner corner, it is necessary to start cutting from the front of the skirting board. After cutting, wooden skirting boards will most likely have to be adjusted with a file.

How to cut a ceiling plinth with a miter box. outside corner:

• In order not to be mistaken with the dimensions, it is better to start by marking the inner corner, and then cut out the outer corner. Otherwise, a situation is possible when the planks may not be enough in length.
• It is necessary to attach the plank to the ceiling and outline the dimensions.
• Install the plinth strip and press it against the nearest wall.
• Hold with your left hand and choose a position for the hacksaw at an angle of 45 degrees, when the handle approaches the left hand.
• Cut off the workpiece.
• We install the striker to the nearest wall, hold it with the right hand.
• We set the hacksaw at a 45 degree angle when the handle approaches the right hand.
• Cut off the workpiece and join the corner.

Trimming the workpiece with a miter box is only suitable if the angle between the walls is even. 90 degrees. If the accuracy is poor, you will have to use other methods.

DIY impromptu miter box

Making a miter box with your own hands is also not difficult.

You will need three wooden planks or boards, which must be put together in a U-shaped box. Then the necessary angles are marked on the walls of the box, and a cut is made with a hacksaw. As a result, you should get a wooden miter box, in which grooves are cut.

A combination of an impromptu miter box and a template with marked lines. For the convenience of cutting, it is necessary to build something in which it will be convenient to hold the plinth strip, since it is difficult to keep it suspended. It is enough to put together a corner from two wooden planks or boards. On paper, you need to draw a mowing line with angles for cutting at 45 degrees or at any other. Then we apply the skirting board blank to the corner, press it by hand, as described in the technology for using the miter box, move the piece of paper with the template under the edge where we are going to cut it, and cut it off. In the process of cutting, we focus on the line drawn on the paper.

As an impromptu miter box, you can use anything, anything. that we form an angle. For example, a table pushed against a wall.

Important! Pay attention to the rule of making measurements for trimming the ceiling plinth. To mark the inner corner, you need to measure the length directly from the corner itself. To outline the outer corner, you need to be guided by the fact that the plinth will protrude deep into the room at a distance equal to its width.

You should not fix the plinths of the ceiling plinths before you cut the striker and try on their location. Only after the two strikers are perfectly aligned in the corner, you can start attaching them to the ceiling. Minor imperfections can be finished with a file or a nail file in the case of wooden and polyurethane skirting boards. To fit foam products, you will have to wield a sharp knife.

If suddenly, even after adjusting the skirting boards, a small gap remains between them, do not despair, it can be repaired with a putty. Cutting the ceiling plinth yourself is not difficult. But in order not to spoil many products, it is better to pre-train on small blanks.

Features of the

Previously, the ceiling plinth had a different name. fillet. Translated from German means “notch” or “groove”. The material for the manufacture of this decorative element was gypsum, which was poured into a prepared mold. The cured gypsum element was fixed to the ceiling surface with mortar. Today, gypsum ceiling plinth is very rare, its cost is high, and it is much more difficult to install it in comparison with modern counterparts.

Ceiling elements are now available in several types of materials in numerous configurations. They are cheaper than gypsum ones, but they look no worse. The cheapest copies are made from polyvinyl chloride (PVC). This material is subject to deformation with insignificant mechanical stress, the formation of irreparable dents or creases leads to a complete replacement of the element. In addition, all manufactured PVC skirting boards are electrostatic, dust accumulates very quickly on them.

Ceiling plinths made of polyurethane and polystyrene are among the most demanded products. They gained their popularity due to their reasonable price, a wide range of profile patterns, a variety of sizes (their width varies within 5–250 mm), as well as resistance to moisture. Polyurethane ceiling elements can be found in the design of many rooms, they look great in any interior. But, there are also disadvantages, the material does not tolerate temperature changes well, is prone to cracking, especially if installed above a kitchen stove.

The classic version of the ceiling plinth is a wood product. Wooden elements, unlike the listed types, are not installed on glue; self-tapping screws are used to fix them. Plinths made of this material are used to decorate wooden houses or rooms, whose style is dictated by the use of wooden elements.

Outside corner

For the outer corner, the skirting board is trimmed at an angle of 45 degrees. First you need to check the evenness of the outer corner. If the wall surfaces are in contact with each other at exactly 90 degrees, you can use a miter box to trim the skirting board. In order to properly cut the outer corner planks, it is necessary to correctly position both parts of the skirting board.

First, you need to outline the length of both halves, and only then trim them at an angle of 45 degrees. In order not to change the position of the saw and not to get confused with the location of the halves of the plinth, it is necessary to correctly position them in the miter box. The left half is laid face up, with the part adjacent to the ceiling closer to the center, and the second side adjacent to the wall should be pressed against the slotted sidewall. With the right half, everything is different: it must be laid face down in the miter box, and the location of the adjacent parts to the ceiling and wall here will be the same.

For a straight cut, the bar placed in the miter box must be pressed against the sidewall, placing it as close as possible to the slot. Holding the workpiece with your left hand, you need to carefully make a cut and put it aside. The second half of the skirting board should be cut in the same way, remembering to turn it face down.

In the absence of a miter box, you can make a draft of it on paper or cardboard. First, we draw a rectangle, inside which on the longer sides we draw two more parallel mowing lines. On each side, inside the lines, using a protractor, set the desired angle in different directions. Preparation and subsequent trimming of workpieces is exactly the same as using the tool itself.

This method is good in that you can postpone the angle not strictly 45 or 90 degrees, but a little more or less, because the surfaces of the walls in the corners are not always directed towards each other at an angle of 90 degrees, there are errors. Therefore, for a more accurate cut on the miter box depicted on paper, you can draw any angle using a protractor. The degree of the angle is first checked using a protractor, the resulting value is divided by 2. The resulting number will be the exact degree for the correct undercut.

If desired, you can build a miter box with your own hands. The easiest way is to make a tool out of wood, you just need to take three planks and put them together in the shape of the letter P. Then make marks on the side parts at different degrees, using a hacksaw to make slots. You can also make a miter box from two planks, having previously made slots in them, or use a drawing with the desired angles on paper to accurately determine the slope.

You can even use a table as an improvised tool. The main thing is that he has angles along which he could navigate.

In order to properly cut the outer corners, you can do without any auxiliary tools and drawings on paper at all, you just need to design the future corner in place.

The outer corner skirting board always protrudes into the room by an amount equal to its width, therefore, to determine the exact cut, it is necessary to make marks on the right and left half of the skirting board. You need to set aside the width from the side adjacent to the wall. Then, from the resulting point, lead the line to the upper corner of the half. The resulting triangle must be cut, and the halves must be joined in place for a preview.

Required tools

Installing a skirting board means trimming the excess length and adjusting it in the corners. In order to do a pruning, you need tools. The choice of this or that type of tool depends on the material from which the plinth is made.

When working with wood and plastic, use an electric miter saw. Cutting with this tool is accurate, fast and effortless, you just need to set the desired parameters and correctly lay the skirting board. It will not be difficult to choose the appropriate tool, since manufacturers produce this tool in a wide price range.

But, with wood and plastic, you can cope with another well-known carpentry tool. a miter box paired with a hacksaw. This tool is in the form of a tray, made either from wood, or from plastic, or from metal. In the two parallel sidewalls of the miter box, there are slots for the saw, for easy cutting of the plinth at the desired angle. In a simple tool modification, the ceiling element can be cut at an angle of 45 or 90 degrees, and in a more complex version, the plinth can be cut at an angle of 60 degrees.

A miter box and a hacksaw are cheaper than a miter saw, but they also have their drawback. this is the risk of damage to the material, especially if the quality of the purchased material is poor. In addition, the miter box is more suitable for rooms with smooth walls and corners.

For a smoother cut without the risk of damage to the material and without delamination of the structure, a jigsaw is suitable. It is easy to operate this tool, with its help you can set any direction and make the most accurate cuts. For materials lighter in weight and with a less strong structure, you can use an ordinary construction knife, the main thing is to pick up a specimen with a sharp blade.

Ceiling skirting boards: how to cut corners?

• Features of the
• Required tools
• How to cut?
• Outside corner
• Interior
• Advice

Any renovation work is always completed with finishing. In rare cases, the interior of the room does without a ceiling plinth, its presence helps to hide the joints of the finishing materials used for wall and ceiling surfaces, in addition, do not forget about the decorative function that this element carries. It is not difficult to arrange the perimeter of the room by simply fixing it in a straight line. It is much more difficult to cut it correctly in the corners without spoiling the material and spending a minimum of time and money.

How to cut?

There are two main questions facing the installation of a skirting board. How to properly cut a skirting board without gaps and with perfect fit in the corners, and what tools should you use to get a beautifully positioned ceiling element in the end? In order to understand these issues, it is necessary to study all the methods and tools used in trimming the baseboard. Almost all methods and tools can be used to adjust the skirting board in both internal and external corners.

Interior

The same methods and tools can be used to join the halves of the skirting board in the inner corner. The location of the halves in the miter box when cutting for the inner corner is identical to the location of the parts used for joining the outer corner. But, you do not need to turn the right half of the plinth for a cut, but only change the slope of the cut (use a different cut). In any case, on the left side of the plinth, the line will be angled to the left of the corner point located on the side adjacent to the wall, and on the right side of the plinth, the line will be angled to the right of the similarly located point.

For perfectly flat corner surfaces, you can use a regular square instead of a miter box. To do this, you need to press half of the plinth to the inner corner of the ruler and cut off the unnecessary part at an angle of 45 degrees. It is not difficult to do this, since the side of the ruler and part of the plinth form a total of 90 degrees, the notch line divides this angle in half, which means that part of the plinth will be cut at an angle of 45 degrees.

For wooden and plastic skirting boards, it is not possible to make an incision in place, you can only apply a marking on the surface of the skirting board, and then cut the cut along the mark using a hacksaw or a saw.

In order to properly cut and then join the halves of the skirting board for the inner corner, you need to measure in place with a simple pencil. The right workpiece must be applied to the corner from the corresponding side until it stops. On the ceiling surface, draw a line along the half and remove the workpiece to the side. We do the same with the other half.

At the intersection of the two lines, a point has formed with which you need to make marks on each half of the skirting board. To put a point, you need to attach a half to the docking place. From the resulting point, you need to draw the line to the bottom corner of the half, as a result, you get a small triangle, which you need to cut off.

The halves cut in this way must be adjusted to each other, with inaccurately cut edges, the cuts can be leveled with a knife if the material of manufacture is foam.

To eliminate minor blemishes on the cut of wooden or polyurethane skirting boards, you will have to use a file. Only after complete coincidence of the cuts can you start fixing the halves.

Sometimes you can’t get the perfect fit, but there is always a way out. To eliminate cracks, you can use a putty. The choice of filler depends on the baseboard material. In order to eliminate inaccuracies in trimming the skirting boards, you need to practice using small pieces of the skirting board or cut the planks slightly longer than the intended size. Such a margin will make it possible to make a new undercut in case it was made with the wrong slope or the material at the cut point was deformed.

Advice

For a good fit of the ceiling plinth, it is not enough to properly cut and join the halves, you also need to glue them correctly. In order not to later cover up the cracks in the corners or alter the work altogether, you need to adhere to certain recommendations.

• Before the final installation of the skirting board, it is necessary to properly prepare the surfaces that will come into contact with it. Priming or simply treating parts of the ceiling and wall surfaces will help improve the adhesion between the skirting board and the surfaces.
• The corners of the room in which the skirting boards are installed should be decorated first. The remaining sections of the perimeter are mounted only after the complete installation of the corner elements.

If there are not only internal, but also external corners in the room, the priority in the design is at the internal corners, since there is a risk of making a mistake with the length of the plinth.

• In order to fix the ceiling element without gaps, it is necessary to press the plinth quite tightly to both surfaces. It is worth remembering that excessive pressure on some materials can lead to deformation of the element.
• To avoid glue residues getting on the front surface of the element, you should immediately remove the excess adhesive before it has time to dry.
• Sealing joints and cracks with a sealant should be carried out only after the glue has completely dried. Compositions with acrylic are most suitable as a sealant.

For information on how to cut the ceiling plinth, see the next video.

The solution to all problems: corner tiles

Dealing with the question of how to lay the corners of the tiles, you should pay attention to those tile mowing lines that the manufacturer produces, taking into account the presence of corner tiles. Then the problem is generally removed, since such ceramic corners can not only fit easily, but also even out uneven corners.

Many manufacturers offer a wide range of corner tiles for both exterior and interior orientation. Such corners are laid out first, and the rest of the tile is already joined to them. Creating the solidity and external integrity of the finish, the choice of such a design looks very harmonious, although such a finish will cost a little more, but not so much as to abandon it.

Correct tiling in interior and exterior corners

Tile has been the most demanded and popular finishing material for many hundreds of years. However, in the process of cladding, many beginners who have no experience are faced with the problem of correctly laying tiles in corners, where it is very difficult to achieve a beautiful combination on their own. In most cases, the corners are immediately striking, so this process should be given enough attention and strength. To make the laying of tiles in the corners of the walls look harmonious, neat and beautiful, you can use several professional methods, which will be discussed in our article.

Laying hog tiles in the corners

Many people, having seen such an original product on the market as the “hog” tile, that is, a unique tile not flat, but convex, immediately decide that this is what they have been looking for all their lives. However, in the process of installing such a tile on the walls, many questions arise and even experienced tilers are reluctant to take on such a troublesome business. It will be easiest to contact a professional, but you should be prepared for the fact that the work will cost more than the tile itself. But the view with the right styling, and the truth is, it turns out amazing.

If you nevertheless decide to figure out how to lay the “hog” tile in the corners, then professionals recommend using the “mustache” grind, that is, at the same notorious angle of forty-five degrees, and then docking extremely carefully. It is best, and most importantly, much easier, to use trims that hide the edge, and even if it is not ideal for you, this will not spoil the appearance of the whole room.

How to properly lay tiles in the corners: considering options

If we talk about facing materials, then there are those without which not a single modern repair can do. Tile or ceramic tiles are exactly the kind that are always in demand. It is durable, does not absorb moisture, and bacteria and fungi reluctantly multiply on its surface. Laying the tiles in a straight line will not be difficult, even for those who do not have much experience in such work, but figuring out how to lay tiles in the corners will be more difficult. Nevertheless, this needs to be clarified, since an incorrectly docked tile can ruin even the most modern and unique design.

Before figuring out how to lay out the corners of the tile, you should decide on the so-called “red corner”. Professional builders call this a place in a room that immediately catches the eye upon entering. Tiling work should be started from there.

Thus, there is a very specific answer to the question of what angle to start laying tiles from. just from the one that is best seen. When performing such work, it should be understood that the corners can be internal and external. Corner tiling may vary depending on this factor, but the general guidelines for this are similar. It is much easier to work with the inner corners, because the outer ones are always in sight, therefore the slightest defect in the work will be immediately noticeable.

Trimming tiles at an angle

Another very popular method of how to make corners when laying tiles is cutting it at an angle of forty-five degrees, then you get a beautiful joint, but you can’t do without special equipment.

The most affordable method of how to grind tiles at an angle is to use a professional electric tile cutter, which allows you to turn the cutting diamond wheel at the desired angle. However, such a tool is quite expensive, so not everyone can afford to buy it. How to cut tiles at an angle without a tile cutter is worth reading the article on our website, where everything is painted and laid out on shelves, for ease of understanding.

It should be understood that for a beginner, this method of styling may be overwhelming, since here you will have to observe many nuances and subtleties. It is very important that the tiles match perfectly, otherwise it will hardly be possible to get a harmonious appearance. If the corners themselves are not even enough, you will have to align them with tile glue, which without special experience “by eye” will definitely not work the first time.

Versatile trims for inside and outside corners when tiling

If we take as a basis not cheapness, but really ease of installation, it makes sense to pay attention to laying tiles in the inner corners, as well as in the outer ones, using trims. These are a kind of functional profiles of a special shape, which are most often made from plastic, but they can also be aluminum or even brass. For external corner joints, they have P or G-like shapes, and for internal ones they often have the form of a concave arc. There are also a variety of convex trims, but they are used less often.

These trim profiles will easily help solve such a difficult question as laying tiles if the corners are uneven, because these defects must be hidden from view. To glue the trim, you can use liquid nails, a sealant, as well as the usual tile adhesive that you used to install it, but only if we are not talking about cement compositions.

There are also complex trim designs for which laying on cement or cementitious adhesives is actually acceptable. Such trims are attached immediately to the mortar, since their edge is driven under the tile, where it is finally fixed. This is a fairly elementary process that even a beginner is quite capable of performing. At the same time, trims reliably protect the seams from moisture ingress, therefore, prevent the growth of bacteria, as well as the growth of mold and fungi.

Perpendicular docking

The simplest solution for tiling the corners from the inside as well as from the outside is the method of straight or perpendicular joining. For this, the tiles are docked in the same way as the laying is done. That is, the tiles must be laid at an angle of ninety degrees. In this case, one of the edges of the tile is masked by the second tile.

Such laying of tiles in the inner corners will be the most acceptable solution to make the appearance of the room harmonious and beautiful. If tile cutting is required in the corners, then it will be optimal to hide it under a solid edge, so it will be possible to hide all the flaws without much difficulty. This method is also suitable for protruding corners of structures.

Removing defects when laying tiles

Even quite experienced craftsmen sometimes make mistakes and mistakes, and when it comes to beginners, we can say that it will definitely not work out perfectly the first time. In this case, external corners when laying tiles will immediately catch the eye, spoiling the whole view and informing all visitors that everything was done here somehow. Various flaws can be compensated for, there are several fairly simple ways to do this, and it is worth saying a few words about them.

• At the outer corners, the tile can be glued to the wall, and the corner itself can be formed using the same tile glue or grout. Then it can be corrected at any time.
• If the corner of the tile is not ground enough, then you can bring it to the ideal using ordinary sandpaper fixed on a wooden block.
• If you are unable to fit the tiles in level, you can compensate for the unevenness of the wall with tile glue or ordinary plaster mortar.

Even if you did not use trims when laying tiles on the corners, then plastic or metal corners can simply be glued on top of the laying on liquid nails, the view will immediately change.