How to disassemble a circular saw

Classification of “circulars” and criteria for their selection

circular

The most obvious criterion for classifying a power tool is power

It is important to take into account that with an increase in the power of a circular saw, its weight and cost inevitably increase, so think three times before overpaying for a top-class tool if you plan to saw it, for example, plywood.

So, according to the power of the “circular” is divided into:

  • Low-power (up to 800 W)
  • Middle class (800-1500 W)
  • High class (more than 1500W)

Finally, the third classification criterion is the type of power supply of the instrument. Depending on it, circular saws are divided into network saws (connected to a regular household outlet with a voltage of 220 V) and rechargeable saws (they have a power source built into the body). The latter are preferable in the case when there is no centralized power supply near the future place of the main work. But you can not count on long autonomous work. with such engine power for most “circulars” it is limited to 1-2 hours.

Choosing a hand-held circular saw for wood

Working with lumber in small volumes is a task that hand-held hacksaws and jigsaws can quite cope with. But what if you want to get maximum performance in minimum time? The obvious solution is the use of hand-held circular saws, which, firstly, have sufficient power, and secondly, they are distinguished by convenience and mobility, which are not characteristic of stationary sawmills.

We offer you to get acquainted with the classification and design features of circular saws for wood, as well as take a look at the rating of the most popular models of this year.

Purpose of the tool

In a private house, a circular saw is indispensable, especially when high performance is required from the tool.

Circular saws are used for:

  • Pruning large branches and felling trees
  • Longitudinal or transverse cutting of boards, beams and battens
  • Cutting plastics and soft non-ferrous metals
  • Dissolution of sheet materials

Circular saws device

The saw blade design is relatively simple.

In addition to the body, which unites all the parts of the tool into a single whole, it includes:

  • Electric motor with mechanical gearbox. required for generating and converting torque.
  • Saw blade. fixed on the gearbox spindle with a fixing nut, is a consumable that serves directly for making cuts.
  • Riving knife platform. provides a secure stop and a consistent angle to the seating surface, and prevents the cutting disc from getting caught in the lumber.
  • Protective covers. parts that redirect sawdust ejected when cutting wood downward.

In some models, additional units and mechanisms are installed. So, recently, laser trajectory indicators, sawdust suction systems have gained popularity, and in powerful industrial “circulars”. additional safety covers that exclude accidental injury to workers.

How to choose a circular saw and discs for it?

Types and features of saw blades

Saw blades differ, first of all, in diameter. the larger it is, the greater the cutting depth the tool can provide

Since the disc can only penetrate into the material up to the level of the support platform, it is usually about 40% of the diameter.

In addition, discs are classified by purpose, for example:

  • For soft woods
  • For medium and hard rocks
  • For sheet lumber
  • For aluminum profile
  • For plastics, etc.

How to make a circular saw with your own hands

Simple circular from an angle grinder or circular saw

An angle grinder (angle grinder) is one of the most demanded tools of a home craftsman, with its help it is easy to cut metal and clean welded seams. In addition, using a disc for wood instead of a standard abrasive disc, an angle grinder can be turned into a hand circular saw (it is also called a parquet floor), and by making a bed with a table. into a stationary circular.

How to make a circular saw with your own hands?

A circular saw will always help to cope with many household and construction tasks. Making it yourself is not as difficult as it seems at first glance. It is enough to adhere to simple rules in working with metal, to have suitable materials at home or in the garage. If you briefly describe the design, then you need to do the following: you will have to build a workbench for a saw of the required dimensions and adapt a hand-held circular saw for it. A stationary machine of this type will greatly facilitate the work and increase its volume. So, let’s look at how to make this tool yourself.

Stationary machine with your own hands

For everyday or one-time tasks, a do-it-yourself circular is quite suitable. Small sawing jobs do not put heavy stress on the disc drive. The compact tool has small dimensions, which makes it possible to remove it after the end of work in a certain place. For an experienced carpenter, you will need to make a large stationary circular.

A stationary circular saw made with your own hands will require accuracy, literacy from the master. Drawings presented in many types of literature will help in the manufacture. It is worthwhile to competently and reverently treat each unit of the unit, because the circular is used at high speeds with a cutting tool.

READ  How to Make a Circular Out of a Hand Circular Saw

The main criteria of the circular saw table

The structure on which the woodworking mechanisms will be installed must have the following characteristics:

  • Capital rigidity and stability.
  • Perfectly flat surface.
  • Grounding.
  • Free space for sawdust.
  • Easy accessibility to waste for disposal.
  • Protection shields that are installed over rotating elements.

Compliance with the above rules will help to make a really high-quality and safe table for a router with your own hands.

There are several requirements for a circular saw that must be considered for high-quality, productive and safe operation of the unit.

Good attachment of the saw blade.
2. Fencing the working part of the saw blade, which many consider an impossible task.
3. Availability of the start-stop button of the unit.

Additional requirements for the table depend on the preferences of the carpenter and his professionalism in this area. Auxiliary elements will help to more accurately process workpieces, to make sawing longer boards, which ultimately will affect the capabilities of the machine for making absolutely accurate, high-quality and complex products.

Most craftsmen make drawings of a milling table with their own hands, and if you are not sure, it is better to work with a locksmith, or the person who made such a device.

Circulation table

The main condition for making a table is the selected material. It is recommended to use a solid steel sheet, duralumin or silumin alloy. Materials such as moisture resistant plywood, plexiglass and textolite require processing and installation on top of galvanized sheet. The use of any material in the manufacture must meet the main conditions:

  • increased vibration resistance;
  • sagging under a load of over 50-60 kg is unacceptable;
  • the presence of a perfectly flat surface.

In cases where the conditions are not met, a DIY circular may stop due to a jammed disc or a broken drive. The consequences can be different, from a damaged part to human injury.

Several options are known for making a circular table. Stationary tables can be sawn or made in two parts. The circular saw blade should protrude no more than a third of its diameter.

Sequencing

The first step is to make the body of the circular. Thick plywood is perfect for this, you can use any pressed wood panels. You will need to cut four rectangular sheets, size 40 x 80 cm. A box with a square 80 x 80 cm at the base is assembled from them. Four bars are installed in the corners for ease of assembly and structural reliability.

From above, the resulting box is closed with a table top. It can be made from the same plywood, but it is better to use some kind of laminated sheet material. This guarantees the durability of the machine, provides the convenience of using a homemade circular.

A cut is made in the tabletop for the disc to exit, holes are drilled on the sides of it for fastening the tool.

The angle grinder must be securely fixed under the worktop. The design of the latch can be very diverse, it all depends on the configuration of the machine itself. The main requirement for the mount. it must securely hold the angle grinder, not allowing it to move.

The simplest mount may look like this: two metal squares, between them an angle grinder is fixed with a steel clamp.

For added strength, it is recommended to use the side handle thread, a bolt with a suitable thread is screwed into it.

Two holes are drilled in the upper shelves of the squares holding the angle grinder. The structure is attached to the tabletop from below using countersunk screws. All that remains is to lock the power button, connect the angle grinder via an external switch.

In the same way, you can make a circular from a circular saw with your own hands. In this case, the work is noticeably simplified due to the fact that there is no need to invent a mount. It is enough to make a cutout for the disc, drill holes in the holes of the hand-held circular saw plate.

Angle grinder attachment converting an angle grinder into a hand-held circular saw

Hello, to all lovers of making something with their own hands at home. In today’s article, the making of an interesting homemade product will be considered in as much detail as possible. Namely, we will consider the assembly of a multifunctional attachment for any angle grinder. This homemade product will add two more tools to your one tool as an angle grinder, namely a hand and miter circular saw. This homemade product can be safely used as a full-fledged circular saw, its characteristics will depend only on your angle grinder. It is poorly suited as a miter saw, but it can still easily saw off some small metal rods. The homemade product itself consists of the simplest and most affordable materials and has a fairly simple design, so I recommend repeating this homemade product to all those who have an angle grinder. Well, I think you shouldn’t delay with a long preface, let’s go.

For this angle grinder attachment, you will need the following, namely:
– Metal sheet (preferably an aluminum sheet, since it is relatively inexpensive and lightweight)
– Thick round metal bar
– Thick and long bolt or metal stud
– Fixing bolts
– Some kind of paint (to protect the finished homemade product from corrosion)

Immediately after the base itself was cut out. One of its narrow sides must be slightly bent, this is only necessary so that at the moment when you lead it across the table, it does not cling to anything and easily slips through the small obstacles that have arisen. In order to do this carefully, we do the following steps, namely we arm ourselves with a ruler and a marker, mark the part necessary for bending (approximately we retreat 1-2 centimeters from the edge).

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Further, after we have marked the part that should be bent, we take a small angle grinder and carefully make a cut along the previously drawn mowing line with a depth of no more than 50% of the width of the material itself. In order to do this neatly, press the metal sheet with a clamp to the table, so it will be more convenient to work. Then we clamp the metal sheet in a vice and gently bend the sheet with a hammer, everything should work out and aesthetically beautiful, like the author of the homemade product in the photo below. If you are not lazy, then you can bend the opposite side in the same way, but this is not at all necessary.

Then we move on to the power section, namely, to our just made base, it is necessary to weld a metal stand on which the angle grinder will be held, since the angle grinder will be installed on the edge relative to this stand, the load on it will be relatively large. So you need to pick up a round metal rod with a diameter as large as possible, no less than the one chosen by the author of the homemade product. And the length should be relatively small, a segment about 5-7 cm long will be enough.

After picking up and cutting out a suitable round metal rod for the mounting rack, we go further. Before welding this structural element to the base, it is necessary to make a through perpendicular hole in it. A bolt or metal stud will be inserted into this hole, which in turn, in our case, will act as an axis of rotation. That is, the hole should be of such a diameter that the bolt of your choice would sit tightly and calmly rotate there, it is worth noting that the bolt should be as thick as possible, otherwise the installed angle grinder will bend and the cut will be at an angle.

It is necessary to drill a hole in such a thick metal with a thick drill slowly and carefully. For this task, it is best to use a special drilling machine, with its help you will get everything as accurately and evenly as possible, clamp the workpiece in a vice and use a chisel to leave a notch on the mark. And we begin to drill carefully, I advise you to use some kind of lubricating oil when drilling, thanks to it, friction and, accordingly, heating of the drill will decrease, and you will have less chance of overheating and failure of your expensive drill.

Then we weld together our two blanks, namely the base with the stand. Welding the stand into the corner of the base so that the hole made in it is parallel with the bent part of the base. We weld over the entire area of ​​the connection of two blanks, as already mentioned, this is necessary for a reliable connection of the loaded part of the homemade product. Then sand the weld seams for a nicer DIY look.

We turn to the manufacture of fastening an angle grinder. For this attachment, we need to cut out a pair of identical rectangles from a metal sheet, about the same size as the author’s (the size of the rectangles directly depends on your angle grinder, then it will become more and more clear what is what).

Along the edges of each metal rectangle, you need to make a pair of identical through mounting holes. The holes should be of such a diameter that the bolt from the handle of the angle grinder itself can slide through them. We outline the place for making a hole with a chisel, and immediately drill them out. Holes should preferably be made in parallel.

Further, these rectangles must be slightly bent. In order to understand how and where to bend these rectangles, they must be fixed to the angle grinder with bolts. We screw them into the holes for attaching the handle from two opposite sides. We should get it so that these two blanks come together. Having determined the place of the fold, we go directly to the fold itself. In order to gently bend the workpieces where necessary, we do the same steps with an angle grinder, a vice and a hammer that we did with the base at the beginning (see photo)

We install the prepared rectangles in their place, securely tightening the mounting bolts, weld these same rectangles together. As a result, we will get a solid element, which will be the attachment of the angle grinder to our structure.

Then we need a long bolt specially for which we made a through hole in the rack. We push this bolt into our hole, then we take an angle grinder with the mount on, attach the mount to the edge of the bolt and weld them together.

It is almost ready, it remains only to make a hole for the cutting disc, since the discs will be used differently, and it will not be enough just to lower the included angle grinder. It is necessary to mark the groove for the discs of different sizes, pull out the angle grinder and carefully cut it out.

All is ready! As a result, we got a useful homemade product, which in turn will help you out more than once. You can see the options for using homemade products in the photo below. I would like to add so that the homemade product will serve you longer and look nicer, it should be covered with some kind of paint.

Here is a video of the author of the homemade product:

HS7010 Makita Circular Saw Disassembly

Well, thank you all for your attention and good luck in future projects, self-made!

Hyundai C 1500-190

Suitable for professional use thanks to its powerful 1.5 kW brush motor and 190 mm disc.

90 degree cuts up to 65 mm.

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It is also possible to work at a 45 degree angle, but the cutting depth is reduced.

The model has a locking system against accidental activation. Can work with guide rails.

By adjusting the speed, you can select the optimal rotational speed of the disc for working with different materials.

The saw is equipped with a vacuum cleaner necessary to remove dust.

Characteristics:

  • power. 1300 W;
  • disc diameter. 190 mm;
  • cutting height. up to 65 mm;
  • tilt angle. 45 degrees;
  • revolutions. 4500 rpm;
  • weight. 5.1 kg.

Advantages:

  • low price;
  • performance;
  • comfortable grip;
  • possibility of tuning.

Disadvantages:

  • heavy;
  • short cord.

Hammer CRP 1800 D

Model with a powerful 1.8 kW electric motor, complete with a 21 cm disc with a landing diameter of 30 mm.

With this tool, you can perform a large amount of joinery, locksmith and construction work.

You can cut material to a depth of 70 mm at an angle of 90 degrees. Due to this, you can work with labors, sheet materials and profiles.

The soft start makes the saw more comfortable to use, and the start-up lock makes it safer. Includes replacement carbon brushes for the motor, parallel angle and hex wrench.

Characteristics:

  • power. 1800 W;
  • disc diameter. 210 mm;
  • cutting height. up to 70 mm;
  • tilt angle. 45 degrees;
  • revolutions. 4500 rpm;
  • weight. 6 kg.

Advantages:

  • excellent build;
  • ergonomics;
  • high revs;
  • work with any materials.

Disadvantages:

  • the gearbox buzzes during prolonged work;
  • not enough holes in the sole.

How to choose and what to look for?

When buying a circular saw, it is enough to focus on the main parameters of the tool:

  • Power. is selected taking into account the thickness and density of the processed material. Power is small. up to 0.8 kW, medium. 0.8-1.2 kW and large. more than 1.2 kW.
  • Weight. the saw is always on weight, so it is more convenient to work with a lightweight model.
  • Sawing depth. depends on the blade. For everyday tasks, an indicator of 40-50 mm is enough, for professional. from 60-70 mm.
  • Speed ​​- affects productivity and the ability to cut different materials. The higher the value, the denser materials you can cut.
  • Angle cutting. most tools are used for straight cuts and 45-degree floor cuts. There is a model with a cut at 60 and 90 degrees.
  • Disc diameter. ranges from 130 to 250 mm.
  • Additional functions. make it easier to work with the tool. Among them are soft start, laser mark, sawdust collection, engine blocking from accidental start, stationary chip removal system.

BOSCH GKT 55 GCE

Compact circular saw with adjustable blade speed. Suitable for processing wood, board material, plexiglass, aluminum and other materials.

Thanks to its aluminum sole, it can withstand heavy loads.

The comfortable grip ensures comfortable work for a long time. Provides speed adjustments and Constant Electronic system for precise cuts at different angles.

High performance thanks to 1.4 kW motor.

Characteristics:

  • power. 1400 W;
  • disc diameter. 165 mm;
  • cutting height. up to 57 mm;
  • tilt angle. 45 degrees;
  • revolutions. 6250 rpm;
  • size. 310 × 240 mm;
  • weight. 4.7 kg.

Advantages:

  • smooth start;
  • speed regulation;
  • convenient disk change;
  • precise work with guides.

Disadvantages:

  • tight vacuum cleaner connector;
  • inconvenient tilt angle adjustment.

Makita 5008MG

Circular saw with a comfortable handle with rubber pads to prevent the tool from slipping out of the hand. The model is equipped with a 1.8 kW electric motor, which provides a performance of 5200 rpm.

Sawing is carried out with a 210 mm disc in a straight line and at an angle of 50 degrees.

The maximum cutting depth is 76 mm. The saw is equipped with lighting, a spindle locking system and an electric motor protection system.

Set includes hex wrench, guide and saw blade.

Characteristics:

  • power. 1800 W;
  • disc diameter. 210 mm;
  • cutting height. up to 76 mm;
  • tilt angle. 50 degrees;
  • revolutions. 5200 rpm;
  • weight. 5.1 kg.

Advantages:

  • performance;
  • powerful engine;
  • suitable for working with thick boards;
  • long cord.

Disadvantages:

  • few holes in the sole;
  • loud noise during operation.

BOSCH GKS 190

Model in blue, equipped with a powerful 1.4 kW electric motor. Suitable for working with plastics, plywood, parquet and other building materials.

Can be cut up to 7 cm deep.

The tilt angle is up to 56 degrees, and the disc rotation speed is 5500 rpm. Safety is ensured by a protective cover and engine blocking against accidental starting.

Thanks to the comfortable grip, the tool is comfortable to hold in the hand. The set includes a key, a 19 cm disc, dust collector adapters and a parallel stop.

Characteristics:

  • power. 1400 W;
  • disc diameter. 190 mm;
  • cutting height. up to 70 mm;
  • tilt angle. 56 degrees;
  • revolutions. 5500 rpm;
  • cord length. 2.5 m;
  • weight. 4.2 kg.

Advantages:

  • comfortable to hold in hand;
  • almost no noise;
  • long cable;
  • suitable for work in the cold;
  • even cut with adjustment by marks.

Disadvantages:

  • harsh start;
  • no case included.

Best hand-held circular saws

BOSCH UniversalCirc 12 2.5Ah x1

The circular saw is suitable for working with wood and other materials. Powered by a rechargeable battery, so the user is not limited in movement.

Cutting angle can be selected from 0 to 45 degrees.

At right angles, the maximum depth is 26 mm. A tool with a guide rail can be used. The set includes two discs with a diameter of 15 and 85 mm.

There is a lock against accidental start-up. Can be supplemented with a vacuum cleaner for quick removal of generated dust.

Characteristics:

  • disc diameter. 85 mm;
  • cutting height. up to 26 mm;
  • tilt angle. 45 degrees;
  • revolutions. 1400 rpm;
  • battery voltage. 12 V;
  • weight. 1.4 kg.

Advantages:

  • high-quality assembly;
  • a light weight;
  • high performance;
  • work from different angles.

Disadvantages:

  • speed control;
  • no dimension marks.