How To Get A Broken From A Punch

Varieties and causes of drill jamming in a hammer drill

There are two most common variants of this trouble:

  • the drill gets wedged in the drill chuck or in the buffer element, which is used to install an ordinary nozzle into a hammer drill;
  • the product gets stuck in the clamp of the punch itself.

In the first case, the problem appears due to the fact that a drill is required to solve problems, which is used for a conventional drill. For its installation, there is a special product. the adapter chuck is the same as in a conventional electric drill. It is inserted by the clamping element of the perforator, after which you can start work.

Standard punch scheme

After their completion, in some cases, it is not possible to simply get the drill, since the lips of the clamping device hold it tightly. This problem is quite easy to solve, since its root lies in the misuse of the clamping mechanism. Some craftsmen simply forget about regular lubrication, so the tool wedges.

WD-40 fluid can be used to remove the drill from the rock drill.

In the second case, the drill got stuck in the drill. This nuisance appears for completely different reasons than getting stuck in the transition node. The nozzle in the electric drill moves around its axis, in some cases it makes weak reciprocating movements. This is due to the transfer of energy into the tool body through the lips of the clamping mechanism and the bottom of the chuck.

The hammer drill uses a different energy transfer technology, and accordingly, the nozzle in the clamp moves differently. Since rotary-impact and just impact vectors of the tool movement are provided in the hammer drill. Energy is transmitted to it by means of a special striker, which is set in motion by means of a power unit powered by electricity. This hammer has a mechanical effect on the shanks of tools installed in the chuck, such as a drill, drill, bit or chisel.

Sometimes a vise is used to extract the drill from the hammer drill.

These elements are equipped with special grooves, with the help of which they are securely fixed in the clamping device. These grooves also serve to provide the tool with energy to rotate. Poor quality tools are made from soft alloys that do not undergo heat treatment. The shanks of such products cannot withstand high and prolonged mechanical loads, therefore they become unusable. In this case, you may have to disassemble the tool before removing the drill from the hammer drill.


The first step is to check whether the rock drill has a reverse rotation function. If there is one, you need to turn it on and, swinging the tool from side to side, get it out of the wall.

In addition, you can arm yourself with a drill and make another hole near the existing one, and by loosening the punch, remove it from the structure.

If the above steps do not help, you will have to use a gas wrench. If the size is too large, then a steel plate can be used as a spacer. The key should be screwed onto the drill and hit on its handle with a hammer from the wall. These movements are not the most convenient, but the method is quite effective.

You can also use a reverse hammer to remove the drill, which is easy to find at any body shop. If this tool is not available, you can connect the hammer drill to the SDS connector of the accessory and pull it away from the work surface. This method is effective when the drill is stuck at a depth of no more than 10 centimeters.

If the drill gets stuck in the wall while drilling through with very little left until the end of the process, you can punch the stuck tool with a sledgehammer. It is necessary to beat in the direction of drilling. It is important to remember that you cannot hit the nozzle itself. you must use a board or any other pad to soften the impact on the drill.

To get around these problems, it is enough to remove the drill and the drill hole as often as possible and clean it of dust, concrete fragments and other contaminants. In addition, a drill or other accessory can jam in the surface if there is too much pressure on it, so the tool must be held lightly. If the structure is reinforced concrete, that is, it has metal reinforcement, then there is a risk that the drill will get stuck in it. Therefore, before starting these works, you should check the location of these metal elements with a special device.

In some cases, it happens that the drill jammed the hammer drill. This is usually due to the use of a cheap, low quality tool. In such products, the fasteners do not withstand the load and are deformed. In some cases, it is enough to clamp the tool in a vice and try to unscrew it. In the most difficult cases, you will have to disassemble the cartridge. To do this, the first step is to dismantle the upper rubber product, as well as the retaining ring, which is located under it.

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Boer stuck in the wall: how to pull out?

In some cases, the drill can be firmly stuck in a wall or any other surface of reinforced concrete structures. In most cases, such a nuisance occurs if a hole is drilled at a slight angle of 6 centimeters. There are several ways to retrieve the tool.

How to remove a drill from a hammer drill: expert advice

Construction work now requires the use of various tools, one of which is a hammer drill. With the help of this device, workers make holes of various diameters, as well as dismantle various reinforced concrete or stone structures.

Situations often occur when it is very difficult, if not impossible, to get the nozzle out of the device holder. In this regard, the question arises of how to pull the drill out of the hammer drill without damaging the device. To do this, you must first figure out what causes such troubles.

Ways to get a drill from a hammer drill

As soon as the drill gets wedged in a concrete wall, floor or any other similar structure, you must immediately turn off the rotation mode, if enabled, and leave only the impact. After that, you need to pull the tool towards you, while pulling it to the other side of the surface in which it is stuck. These movements will lead to the fact that the drill will break part of the concrete layer holding it, after which it should simply and without much effort come out. This method will also help when the drill gets jammed in the wall structure due to the coarse fraction, and if the product gets into the reinforcement.

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Another easy way to extract the drill from the surface is to use the reverse rotation feature. This function is not available on all instruments, in addition, its use leads to the licking of the drum assembly of the mechanism. If the device has a warranty, then you can try to extract the drill using this method.

By clicking on the link, you will learn how to make a vibrator for concrete from a perforator yourself. Read about how to choose the right hammer drill in this article. Perhaps you are also interested in what kind of drill bits are for drilling concrete.

There is also a rather extravagant way to extract the borax. For this you need a gas wrench. It must be screwed onto the nozzle, and then unscrewed in the opposite direction. This method works because the gas wrench has a fairly long lever with which you can apply a lot of force. But if this method still does not work, you can try to knock on the handle of the key with a hammer. At the same time, the punch should be loosened from side to side. The combination of these movements will cause the drill to come out rather quickly.

In some cases, before removing the drill from the hammer drill, you will have to make several additional holes with another tool. As a result, a large hole should form around the drill, the diameter of which should be about 10 centimeters. The drill will come out together with a fragment of the wall, the resulting hole can be repaired later. This method is suitable in the case when it is impossible to close it in the wall or cut the drill.

If none of the above methods came up, then the nozzle will simply have to be cut off the angle grinder, beat off with a sledgehammer or something to cover up.

Now let’s talk about what to do if the drill gets stuck in the hammer drill. This is most often due to the fact that the material of the shank does not withstand loads and deforms. To remove the tool, it is necessary to clamp it tightly in a vice. After that, it is necessary to turn on the reverse on the instrument, it is advisable to set it to maximum power. The start must be pressed with some interruptions, since prolonged operation in this mode will lead to a breakdown of the power unit of the device.

After the product is wedged, you should sharply pull the puncher out of the vise. They will contain a drill that is no longer usable. If the vice was not around, you can limit yourself to a thick wooden board. The hammer drill must be set up for drilling, but at the same time turn on the reverse. You need to drill until the tool “bites”.

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Recommendations for avoiding such cases

If after these operations the drill can go through the shank without any extra effort, then this tool is really of high quality. If deformation has begun, then at this stage the product will simply be removed from the clamping mechanism. It is important not to miss the moment when these changes start in order to prevent serious jamming of the drill in the rock drill.

A similar nuisance can also arise from the decision to use fairly powerful equipment for solid objects, but keep the usual drills. Even the highest quality products that are not designed to handle any material will quickly fail and deform. Therefore, for each type of material, special attachments should be used.

It is important to remember that it is not always possible to independently remove the nozzle from the hammer drill. Therefore, you simply cannot do without visiting the service center, which will lead to the loss of the warranty. The fact is that the use of low quality or unsuitable equipment is a user error.

Uses of citric acid

This is only suitable if you are dealing with a small diameter drill and a relatively small part. With this method of extraction, it is necessary to make an aqueous solution in a stainless steel container in a ratio of 20 grams of acid per 100 grams of water. For these purposes, ordinary kitchen citric acid is suitable.

The container with the solution is placed on the heating device, and the broken part, in turn, is lowered into the container. The temperature of the solution in the process must be maintained at about 90 ° C. Depending on the length of the remaining drill inside, this operation can take from one to four hours.

Using spring wire

Given the fact that the diameter of the drill is slightly smaller than the hole itself, you can try the following option. On the side surface of the pre-heated rod in two opposite places, cut grooves into each of which then solder a piece of spring wire with a diameter selected in such a way that it can completely sink into the spiral groove of the drill. As far as possible. clean the product from shavings. Then, deepening the rod into the hole, after the wire enters the spiral of the drill fragment, to achieve that the rod begins to spin. After jerk to remove the drill chip.

However, more complex options are not excluded, which should be considered in more detail. Having broken the drill so that there is no way to get close to it and get it, you can try the following methods.


You can try to drill out the piece with a harder product such as a carbide, diamond, or specially coated drill bit. This method will require the utmost care, caution and patience from you, as it can lead to deformation and bending, which, in turn, will entail leaving the fragment into the soft body of the part. In addition, if there is a high probability of metal shavings getting inside important assemblies, parts and assemblies, it is better to refuse this method. However, on the contrary, if the part is not of great value and is not a pity, then you can drill out the space around and then extract the fragment in this hole, picking it up with a suitable tool.

Extraction with a bolt with spokes welded to it

If the fragment has a diameter of eight or more millimeters and protrudes outward, then it can be removed by unscrewing it counterclockwise using a bolt with strong spokes welded to it. To do this, put a lubricant, such as engine oil, into the hole. Then insert three mandrel protrusions into the groove of the damaged product. In the future, remove the drill by rotating the mandrel in the opposite direction and turning out the chip.

How to remove a broken drill bit from metal

It is no secret that many users of a drill or hammer drill broke drills in the course of various plumbing and installation work, both in domestic and industrial conditions. As a rule, such unpleasant incidents occur for the following reasons:

  • Work incompatibility between drill materials and workpiece;
  • Chipping of cutting edges due to excessively high rotational speed;
  • Long work without sharpening, which leads to dullness of the cutting edge of the drill;
  • Incorrect selection of the diameter;
  • Overheat;
  • Illiterate drilling mode leading to overload.

Unfortunately, not everything always goes according to plan, so during repair work, various unpleasant incidents are possible.

The ways in which the debris is pulled out in different circumstances depends on:

  • Drill diameter values;
  • The dimensions of the part (workpiece) during the drilling of which the breakage occurred;
  • The type of material the drill broke when drilling;

Also, it is important to take into account the following circumstance: whether the fragment protrudes outward or remains deep in the workpiece.

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The most simple situations

To begin with, consider methods that do not require a special tool and the use of etching solutions:

  • In cases where a broken drill of a small diameter protrudes from the body of the workpiece, it is often simply pulled out with pliers or pliers, after having lubricated the grooves of the debris remaining inside.
  • Make a hole on the back of the part (if it is possible to access it), to the point which the broken tool has already drilled, and carefully knock it out from the back with a suitable locksmith tool. In order not to damage the part, it is advisable to use a gasket;

Extraction with strong electrolyte

In the event that the part is made of aluminum, it is possible to etch the drill fragment out of the hole using an aqueous solution of nitric acid.

This method is carried out by applying a caustic liquid to the debris. Wait long enough for the acid to corrode the cutting edges of the drill and then knock the part out of the hole with a hand bit.

When using this option, it is recommended to lubricate the area next to the broken drill with paraffin or wax. The ambient temperature during the process must be at least 20 ° C.

Method using a special set of extracts

You will need a special set of extracts with which to pull out stuck pins, torn off bolts, broken drills, etc.

Your next steps:

  • It is necessary to drill in the center of the stuck drill, a hole with a diameter slightly smaller than the diameter of the extractor;
  • Next, insert the extractor and carefully screw it inside;
  • Then start pulling out the stuck drill.

Keep in mind that the extractor has a left-handed thread, so when screwing in, it will screw in the opposite direction.

Recommendations for avoiding such cases

When using quality drills, the drill will never get stuck in the hammer drill. But at the same time, you need to beware of fakes, since there are a lot of them at the moment. And in order to prevent such incidents, it is advised to carry out trial work with the purchased device.

There are times when a powerful puncher makes holes in materials for which the inserted drill is not suitable. And then even a high-quality drill will not withstand such loads and rivets.

How to get a drill from a hammer drill?

Nowadays, with construction robots, you cannot do without a hammer drill. With it, you can drill any hole, as well as dismantle a wall or ceiling. A situation often happens when the drill gets stuck in the chuck and it is very difficult or impossible to pull it out. How do you pull out the drill yourself? To understand this, you need to know the reasons for the appearance of such an urgent problem.

If, after completing these actions, the drill passes through the shank unhindered, then the rock drill is of high quality. If there is a deformation of the nozzle, then it will be quite easy to pull the drill out of the mechanism. The main thing in this case is to act quickly, otherwise the right moment will be missed. After all, the jam will be serious, and it will take a long time to get the nozzle.

The drill gets stuck due to the use of an expensive and high-quality device in conjunction with cheap equipment on a hard surface.

Important! Even expensive, high-performance device parts can quickly fail if used on non-intended materials. Because of this, special attachments are used for each surface.

A burr jam in a hammer drill is a common problem faced by every construction worker. It happens for several reasons. Most of the time, sticking occurs due to the use of cheap tools or equipment for them. It is better to play it safe once again and take all possible measures to prevent the problem. If it has already occurred, they try to remove the drill from the perforator using a vice. No need to be afraid of getting stuck! When you can’t get the drill yourself, you should contact the service center for help.

What to do if the drill gets stuck in the hammer drill?

When, in the process of performing a large amount of work, the drill from the opposite side is riveted, it is not possible to pull it out of the perforator freely.

There are two ways to get the drill out of the power tool:

  • A stuck drill must be taken in a vice, while holding the tool in your hands, loosen it to the sides and pull it towards you.
  • In a large vice, using rubber pads, so as not to crush the body, a perforator is clamped. Then the drill is clamped with a small vise and with a small hammer, blows are easily applied to it in the direction directed to the exit of the equipment from the chuck.

In both cases, penetrating solutions can be used.

If you cannot pull the drill directly out of the chuck while turning, then you need to remove the parts of the chuck or try to turn the drill back 90 degrees. Turning it usually results in a complete replacement of the clamping element components.

If attempts to pull the drill out of the device were unsuccessful, then so that the perforator does not finally break down, it is better to seek help from the master.

How to get a drill from a hammer drill


There are several main reasons why this malfunction can occur.

Among them are two of the most common:

  • jamming of the drill in the chuck or in the buffer element (it is used when installing a conventional drill bit);
  • drill stuck in the punch clamp.

In the first situation, a malfunction arises from the need to use a drill, which is needed for the device to function. To insert it, a special element is used. a transitional chuck (the same part is used for an electric drill). It is usually placed in the clamping element of a hammer drill and then start to work.

After the completion of the work, it may be difficult to pull out the nozzles due to their tight fixation by the lips of the clamping hole. In this situation, there is a simple and quick solution, because the problem arises from improper operation of the clamping mechanism. Many users forget (or simply do not know) that it needs to be lubricated periodically. For this reason, jamming occurs.

The second situation occurs due to the element getting stuck in the punch itself. The nozzle of an electric drill rotates in a circle, and in some devices it also performs reciprocating actions. This is because the body of the tool transmits an impulse through the bottom of the chuck and the lips of the chuck.

But in the hammer drill, the energy is transmitted according to a different principle, therefore, the nozzles move along a different trajectory. This tool assumes rotational percussion and percussion vectors of the rig movement. Energy is supplied to the tool through the striker, which is included in the movement after the start of the operation of the power unit connected to electricity. Such a firing pin acts on the shanks of the tools inserted into the chuck using mechanics (drill, drill, chisel, crown).

There are special grooves on the attachment that are securely fixed in the clamping element. This allows them to provide torque transmission. Cheap tips are usually made from low-quality materials and soft alloys that cannot be heat treated. Because of this, the tails become unsuitable for further use, since they cannot withstand such a load. In this situation, you will most likely have to completely disassemble the tool.

How to remove a stuck drill from a hammer drill?

Repair work most often requires the use of a tool such as a hammer drill. They are drilled holes and dismantled surfaces. Any power tool is subject to stress during operation, and this gradually leads to malfunctions. Often, after the completed work process, a problem arises with the removal of the drill from the tool holder. It takes a little work to pull out a jammed drill.

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What to do if the drill gets stuck in the hammer drill and how to pull it out correctly?

Construction and repairs involve the use of a huge number of devices, a special place among them is the perforator. Using this tool, holes of different sizes are made in any surface, as well as buildings made of stone, concrete and iron are dismantled. Sometimes situations occur in which it is impossible or very difficult to pull the drill (or a piece of it) out of the hammer drill. Therefore, any person who is engaged in repairs needs to know how to pull out the drill without harming the device. And for this, you should study in detail the prerequisites for a malfunction.

Dismantling the electrical part of the rotary hammer

To get to the electrical part of the device, if you suspect that it may be a breakdown here, you must perform the following steps.

  • Unscrew the screws holding the back cover and remove it.
  • Unscrew the fastener holding the power cable.
  • Next, you should pull out the wires from the mounts and remove the start button.
  • Remove all wires attached to the stator.
  • Remove the brushes by unscrewing the fixing bolts.
  • Separate the electrical and mechanical housings of the device by unscrewing the corresponding bolts. Use a “flat” screwdriver to separate.
  • Remove the rotor from the gearbox. If bearings need to be replaced, use a special puller.
  • Remove the air intake located in the electrical housing of the rotary hammer.
  • Disconnect the stator from the housing. To make it easier to come out of the casing, it is recommended to pull the stator with a light tap on the casing with a wooden object.

If it is required to disassemble a barrel rock drill, with a vertical electric drive, the handle is first removed, and then the bolts holding the motor are unscrewed.

The drill does not hold in the chuck

The reason that the hammer drill does not hold the drill lies in the breakdown of the cartridge and the wear of its parts:

  • there was a deformation of the balls;
  • the stop ring is worn out;
  • the fixing spring has sagged.

You will need to disassemble the cartridge and replace the problem parts.

Dismantling and repairing a punch with your own hands

A hammer drill, like any electric tool, requires careful handling, correct operation and timely prevention. If you neglect these standards, then the device may fail without depleting its resource. Repair of a hammer drill for some malfunctions can be done by hand, and to eliminate breakdowns associated with the electrical part of the engine, you need the help of a specialist.

Mechanical breakdowns

If any mechanical malfunction appears in the punch, then its presence can be determined by ear (noise rises, rattling appears).

You may also feel increased vibration or an unpleasant odor coming from the unit housing.

So, the following can be attributed to mechanical failures:

  • breakage of the device operating mode switch;
  • worn out rubber bands for striker and striker;
  • failure of the striking mechanism;
  • failure of the unit barrel due to wear;
  • breakage of gear teeth;
  • breakage of the chuck causing the drill to fly out.

Replacing the brushes of the electric motor

The main sign that it is time to change the brushes is the formation of increased sparking in the area of ​​the electric motor collector, the rapid heating of the brush holders, and the smell of burning. When the brushes are not worn out, the spark can only be seen under them. Otherwise, the spark is visible all over the collector circle.

The presence of a spark around the collector with worn brushes is a sign of bearing wear, a violation of the insulation of the rotor or stator, burnout of the collector plates, burnout of the stator or rotor.

Another sign that the stator has burned out is the presence of sparks under only one electrode. If you have a tester, you can use it to check the stator and the rotor: measure the resistance on the rotor and stator alternately. If it is the same on both windings, then everything is in order with the stator. If you notice clear signs of problems with the rotor or stator on your rock drill, you will have to take the device to a service center for repair. As for the brushes, you can change them yourself.

To get to the place where the brushes are installed, you will need to disassemble the housing in which the motor is installed, or simply remove the back cover. Opening the lid, you will see the brushes fixed in special holders. The photo below shows how these parts look.

Brushes that are installed on the motors of rotary hammers are of 3 types.

  • Graphite. they are distinguished by their durability, but since they are very hard, then grinding them to the collector is not ideal, which negatively affects the latter.
  • Coal. easily rub against the manifold, providing good contact, but wear quickly.
  • Carbon-graphite is an ideal option, as they are a mixture of 2 components that complement each other.

It is very important not to wait for the engine to sparkle and then change the brushes. Replacement is needed after they are worn out by 1/3 of the nominal (8 mm). Even if one brush is less worn out than the other, you still need to change both.

Pay attention to the condition of the spring in the new brushes and the attachment of the contact. If the spring goes off while the engine is running, it will be severely damaged. Also, if the spring is weak, then it will not be able to provide good contact.

Before changing the brushes, it is imperative to thoroughly clean the rotor and stator from the remains of graphite or coal dust. You can clean these parts with technical or medical alcohol.

Next, you should fix the electrodes in the holders and grind them to the collector. To do this, place a piece of fine-grain sandpaper on the collector and use a rotating motion in different directions to grind the electrode. Lapping continues until the contact area of ​​the electrode is slightly rounded. This will provide a better fit to the collector plates and, accordingly, better contact.

Removing the cartridge

Disassembly of the unit for troubleshooting should be carried out carefully, with an inspection of each removed part. To make the assembly easy, it is better to photograph the disassembly process. If you did not find external defects on the device, then it is recommended to start disassembling it with the cartridge.

  • First remove the boot (1) made of rubber.
  • Carefully so as not to lose, use a screwdriver to remove the retaining ring (2) and then the plastic boot (3).
  • In the next step, it is important not to lose the small ball that is under the washer (4). Remove washer (4), plate (5) and spring (6), and ball (7). It is when these parts are worn out that the drill falls out of the chuck. Some chuck models may have additional balls and washers.

We disassemble the case

If disassembly of the unit body is required, then first you need to remove the mode switch.

  • Place the switch in the “Shock” position. Usually a hammer is drawn in this place on the body. If this mode is not available, put the switch in the position “Impact drilling”.
  • Next, you should press the button located on the switch handle and turn it slightly below the hammer icon until it clicks.
  • After that, you need to pry the switch with a screwdriver and, pulling it towards you, remove it. In some models of units, this switch can be screwed to the body.