How to get the bit out of an electric screwdriver. What does an electric screwdriver consist of? Setting the device.
How to get the bit out of an electric screwdriver?
Work with the screwdriver, observing safety precautions and rules described in the manual. Choose the right bits correctly. And then the tool will serve you for a long time.
How to insert the drill into the drill and peorator
Often there are variants to appear difficult not tasks when working with peorator other drill. In the main, the discomfort can lie in the inability to work properly with drills. First let’s look at some of the differences of chucks are not drills.
The hard case
Well, sometimes it happens that the chuck does not want to unscrew, and therefore the drill bit will not come out of it either. It must not happen in serviceable chucks, so if the chuck will not unscrew under any circumstances, it may indicate a defective chuck.
Usually this does not happen abruptly. the chuck begins to jam before it is clamped so that it then does not unfold.
In such a situation there are two ways to proceed. We would like to mention at once that the chuck after that it will be necessary to change. In this case, the drill bit should be taken out actually in order to save this very drill bit, well, as well as to make it possible to remove the defective chuck from the electric screwdriver. It will not be possible to do it with a stuck drill bit.
- The first method is quite humane. You have to clamp the bit in a vice and try to turn the whole electric screwdriver around it. You can spray WD-40 in the chuck to make the task easier. The entire electric screwdriver with a chuck can only be turned if the construction of the screwdriver is such that the chuck is rigidly connected to the electric screwdriver and cannot be turned without pressing the start button. However, not all models have such a provision, so you can turn the chuck with a gas wrench. the plastic part of it will be damaged in this case. If the drill bit gives way, you twist the chuck back and forth and gradually pull it off the drill bit.
- If the drill bit does not give way, then you have to resort to the “vandalism” method. Take an angle grinder and just cut the chuck. but it is necessary to cut it not to damage the spindle of the electric screwdriver and the drill bit itself, if you need it in one piece. No drill will resist such a trick.
These are the ways to get the drill out of an electric screwdriver. If you have the second case, I am sorry, but I do not know a more humane way, and I do not think there is one. At least that is how I got the drill bits. And here ends the article. see you later!
How to drive screws with a drill/driver
How to work in screwing mode?
Before you start the work, you need to prepare the tool. If it runs on battery, you have to put it on charge.
The next step is to install the bit. To find the right bit, you need to consider the size of the fastener’s flat and the type of slot. Bits vary in type and diameter:
- Slotted. Most often used. Designed for fasteners with a countersunk head and a flat head screwdriver, screws. Tip width varies.
- Phillips. They are used for screwing in and out self-tapping screws and countersunk head screws. The tip has four radiating diagonal ribs.
- Hexagonal. For fasteners that have a hexagonal recess in the head. Screws and screws of this type are used when assembling furniture and appliances.
- For screws and nuts. Bit with tip that has a hexagonal recess inside. The tool is used as a nutrunner, for screws, bolts, screws.
There are other bits, but they are used less frequently. How to change or remove the bit? After determining which bit is needed, insert it into the chuck. Installation method depends on chuck type. In the quick-action nozzle is inserted as follows: twist the chuck counterclockwise until the distance between the jaws increases. Push the bit tip between them, turn the chuck clockwise, so that the jaws lock and secure the workpiece.
With an electric screwdriver fitted with a wrench chuck, changing the screwdriver bit is more complicated. First, a key is inserted into a special hole on the device, rotate it counterclockwise to loosen the clamp. Insert the bit, fix it by turning the wrench clockwise.
The next step is to check that the tool works. If the electric screwdriver is powered by the mains, connect it to the socket. Pressing the start button, check to see if the bit is cranking. The rotation speed can be adjusted with the same button by loosening or increasing the pressure. The tip of the bit is inserted into the recess on the head of the fastener, and the trigger is pressed.
How to remove the drill bit from an electric screwdriver
Good day! In this article we will discuss how to remove the drill from an electric screwdriver. Such a question may arise both from an inexperienced user who has not yet learned all the functions of an electric screwdriver, and experienced owners, whose drill bit is too tightly jammed in the chuck.
So, let’s start with the simplest case. inexperienced users. Screwdrivers have a thing called a torque control. It looks like the scale around the front of the electric screwdriver, which is right behind the chuck. There are numbers from 1 to 10, 15, 20 or even more. different models have different numbers. and the last position on it is marked as a drill. If you rotate this regulator and set it against the special mark so that next to it was one of the numbers, then when you reach a certain torque, the chuck will not rotate further, and will begin to snap. If you put it on the “drill,” the electric screwdriver will try to spin as hard as its motor power allows.
Wowstick 1F Cordless Electric Screwdriver Teardown Disassembly Repair
True, it is worth noting that at the two-speed screwdrivers in the second speed even in the “drill” position, if the torque reaches a certain value, then a safety system is triggered, which simply turns off the power supply. An electric screwdriver will also try to spin at the very last speed.
And a beginner can start drilling or screwing self-tapping screws, for example, when the torque control is on one of the numbers, or the electric screwdriver is on the second speed (and it is actually recommended to drill on it).
The screwdriver may jam hard enough, and as a result, when you start releasing the drill bit or bit in the standard way (by reversing, holding the chuck and pressing the start button), either the torque limiter or the safety system may just kick in.
Therefore, in such a situation, you just need to put the electric screwdriver on the first speed and set the torque control to the “drill” position. On single-speed models, you just have to set the torque control to the “drill” position. And then, again, we unscrew in the standard way.
And sometimes, the chuck does not want to unscrew, so the drill bit won’t come out of it either. It should not happen in serviceable chucks, so if under no circumstances chuck will not untwist, it may indicate a malfunction.
Usually it does not happen sharply. the chuck begins to jam before it clamps so that then it does not unfold.
In such a situation, you can resort to two ways. We would like to mention right away that the cartridge must be changed after the action. In this case, the drill bit should be taken out actually in order to save this very drill bit, but also to make it possible to remove the defective chuck from the electric screwdriver. You can’t do that with a stuck drill bit.
- The first way is quite humane. Clamp the drill bit in a vice and try to twist the entire electric screwdriver around it. Spray a little WD-40 on the chuck to make things easier. You can only turn the whole electric screwdriver with a chuck if its construction is such that the chuck is tightly coupled to the electric screwdriver and you can not turn it otherwise than by pressing the start button. But not all models have such a feature, so you can turn the chuck with a gas wrench. the plastic part of it will be damaged in this case. If the drill bit succumbed, then you need to rotate the chuck back and forth and gradually pull it off the drill.
- If the drill does not yield, then you have to resort to the “vandalism” method. Take an angle grinder and just cut the chuck. Only it is necessary to cut so that not to damage the spindle of the electric screwdriver and the drill itself, if you need it intact. No drill can resist this technique.
These are the ways to get the drill out of an electric screwdriver. If you have the second case, I apologize, but I do not know a more humane way, and I think there is no. At least that’s how I got the drill bits out. And here I finish the article. see you next time!
How to repair an electric screwdriver with your own hands at home
An electric screwdriver is one of the most used tools for repairs. You can use it to tighten screws to install wall panels, finish the room with wood, drill holes and even stir mortars and perform other “exotic operations”. Therefore, the failure of an electric screwdriver at least causes a lot of annoyance. You can take this device to the workshop. And if you need it urgently? Yes, and there are often breakages, which can be eliminated by their own forces, saving on repair fees. In this article we will consider how to repair an electric screwdriver with your own hands.
How an electric screwdriver is designed
Before repairing any device, it is necessary to know how it is constructed, the logic of its work, the interaction between the nodes and details with each other.
All screwdrivers have little difference in principle design schemes. This device consists of:
- The housing in which all the other components of the device are installed. This part is made of metal or plastic. Bosch GSR 10,8-2-LI, BlackDecker BDCDD12B and others. There are models in which these two materials are used simultaneously.
- Single-phase collector motor with an electronic control system. the direction of rotation and speed control, the choice of operating mode. twisting, unscrewing screws, drilling. The motor consists of a collector and a stator. The collector is powered by spring-loaded copper or graphite brushes.
- A planetary gearbox with torque limitation option. The gearbox is mounted on the motor shaft. Depending on the model of the electric screwdriver, this assembly is made of plastic or metal. The second option is characteristic of the professional version.
- The chuck installed on the gearbox output shaft.
If it is not a mains model, but a battery model, then the handle of the housing has attachments for connecting the battery, which provides it a mechanical connection to the housing and an electrical connection to the collector motor. There is also a start button on the housing to turn on the electric screwdriver. On some models it can also be used to control the speed of rotation by varying the pressing force.
As we can see, there can be electrical and mechanical faults in an electric screwdriver. Let’s consider them in detail with an indication of the signs by which you can identify a breakdown.
Signs of an electrical problem with the tool are
- When you press the start button, the device does not turn on or the chuck spins slowly.
- The tool is running, but there is arcing and clicking noises.
- Strong body heat, even if not used for long periods of time.
- There is no adjustment of any kind. speed, direction of rotation, mode of operation.
Let’s look at what malfunctions can cause the signs described above. The tool will not start and the chuck will rotate slowly for the following reasons:
- The battery is exhausted or not charging.
- There is a break in the electrical circuit between the battery and the collector motor.
- Electric motor failure.
If the battery is discharged, it must be charged or replaced with a charged one from the delivery set. many screwdriver models come with 2 batteries.
Reasons why an electric screwdriver does not charge may be:
Breakage of the charger is identified by measuring the voltage at the output of the device and comparing it with the data in the data sheet. The voltage rating is usually 10.8, 12, 14.4 or 18 volts. The most common are 18V batteries. And the measured voltage value in case of defective charger should be slightly higher than the rated value. If the voltage is lower or missing, then the charger must be repaired or replaced. It is possible to repair this device by yourself, but you should be knowledgeable in electronics.
If there is nothing wrong with the charger, it is the battery that is to blame. It will either produce no voltage, or less than the rated voltage. For example, the Fieldmann FDUZ 50001 battery has a nominal voltage of 18 volts, but outputs 10-11 volts. In this case you will observe the slow rotation of the cartridge. It is necessary to note that slow rotation is also caused by a mechanical failure. But in this case, the work of the electric screwdriver will be accompanied by a characteristic noise.
You can also guess that it is this component is out of order by its heating. Why the battery of an electric screwdriver warms up is easy to explain. either poor electrical contact between it and the motor, or poor electrical contact within this assembly, between the battery banks.
How to reanimate the battery of an electric screwdriver? In the first case you should try to degrease and clean the contacts. The second option is to disassemble the battery, if the construction allows, and re-solder the contacts. This option is possible only for a person who has experience in such work. The faulty battery can also explain why the electric screwdriver discharges quickly. It either doesn’t reach its nameplate capacity when you charge it, or most of it goes into heat because of bad contacts.
In the first case the battery is subject to unconditional replacement. In the second, you can try to clean or resolder the contacts. However, statistics show that often, even in the case of successful restoration of the battery, it is not long enough and, in the end, it is replaced. The circuit breakage between the battery and the motor is an air gap between the contacts of these devices. It usually happens when the start button is defective. The malfunction can be eliminated by disassembling it, inspection of the parts. their cleaning and washing in solvent. alcohol or white spirit. and scraping with sandpaper. If the start button also regulates the number of revolutions, as in the DeWALT DCD710D2, you need knowledge of electronics to repair it.
One of the reasons why the electric screwdriver does not spin is a faulty motor. To be disassembled and inspected. First assess the condition of the brushes. A very common cause of malfunction is the wear of elements that make contact with the manifold or the spring that clamps them loose. If this is the case, the brushes are replaced. If everything is in order visually inspect the collector and stator for breaks in the winding, and use a multimeter to measure the resistance of the winding. If a breakage, an inter-turn or a short circuit to frame is present, the winding has to be rewound. This is done on special equipment and definitely not at home.
Possible problems with the drill chuck: causes, description and solutions
To avoid problems with the drill, it is necessary to know how to work properly. Drill. a universal tool, it can be used to drill wood and metal, plastic and tile, stone and glass, concrete and brick. In the home usually used percussive rotary drill of medium power. It is equipped with a chuck of the SDS system, which was invented at BOSH. SDS chuck is not particularly accurate, but ideal for drilling concrete, stone, brick. That is, those building materials where drilling must be done with a blow.
For more precise drilling in metal and wood, it has a special adapter for attaching a cam-key or quick-action chuck. Milling work must not be carried out with the drill. The drill chuck is not designed for side loading and will fail quickly. Of great importance:
It is necessary to skillfully use the choice of the right speed, feed, mode of operation depending on the material of the workpiece. All of these factors have a direct influence on the reliable functioning of the drill chuck.
Part falls off
Chuck can fly off? Such a problem is quite common, even in newer drills, with a tapered jaw chuck when deep drill holes are drilled. Need to lift the drill bit to release swarf, at which point the chuck falls off the cone. You can correct the situation by increasing the interference in the taper mating. To do this, the chuck is heated in oil or an oven to a temperature of 110 degrees and placed on the cold mandrel of the drill.
Clamping jaws are stuck
Drill always works in dirty conditions. This dust, dirt, shavings, sawdust and other small debris. If it gets inside the chuck, this debris can cause the threads to jam, particularly at the cams. There is only one solution here. Chuck disassembly, cleaning and washing of moving parts is required. Before assembly, all moving parts are to be coated with litho. Especially a lot of debris falls into the chuck when drilling on the ceiling surfaces. Here you can think about protecting the cartridge with a half of a small rubber ball.
Well, it so happens that the chuck in any way does not want to unscrew, and therefore it does not pull out and the drill bit. It should not happen with serviceable cartridges and if it does not unwind under any circumstances, it may indicate a defective cartridge.
It does not usually happen suddenly. the cartridge jams before it unscrews so that it does not unscrew.
There are two ways to deal with this situation. I would like to mention right away that the chuck after that will need to be changed. In this case, the drill bit should be taken out actually in order to save this very drill bit, but also to make it possible to remove the defective chuck from the electric screwdriver. You can not do it with a stuck drill bit.
- The first method is quite humane. You have to clamp the drill bit in a vise and try to turn the whole electric screwdriver around it. You can spray the chuck with WD-40 to make it easier. It is only possible to turn the entire electric screwdriver with the chuck if the chuck is designed in such a way that it is rigidly connected to the electric screwdriver and cannot be turned otherwise than by pressing the start button. But not all models have such provisions, that’s why the chuck can be rotated with a gas wrench. the plastic part of it will be spoiled in this case. If the drill bit succumbed, you need to rotate the chuck back and forth and gradually pull it off the drill bit.
- If the drill does not yield, then it will be necessary to resort to “vandalism” method. Take an angle grinder and simply cut the chuck. Only cut it so as not to damage the spindle of an electric screwdriver and the drill itself, if you need it intact. No drill can resist such a trick.
These are the ways to get the drill out of an electric screwdriver. If you have the second case, I apologize, but I do not know a more humane way, and I think there is no such a way At least that’s how I got the drill bits out. And that concludes this article. see you later!
An electric screwdriver and its design features
Begin the repair of an electric screwdriver with your own hands should be acquainted with its design. The main element of an electric screwdriver is the electric motor. Electric screwdrivers come in both cordless and cordless types. The use of an electric mains screwdriver is resorted to less often, because of such a disadvantage as the need to connect the tool to the 220V mains. Cordless type tools are more popular because they allow you to perform not only repair work at home, but also outside.
The main components of a cordless electric screwdriver are:
- Case. All screwdrivers are generally made of durable plastic.
- Start button. It is designed in such a way that the amount of rotation of the chuck depends on the pressure force.
- Electric motor. Cordless tools use single-phase collector-type motors and DC motors. The motor is the rotor, the stator in the form of magnets, as well as the brush unit.
- Effort regulator.
- Reversing switch.
- The battery. It is usually detachable and is often supplied with the product in duplicate.
- Chuck. Typically quick-action chucks are used.
Some models are additionally equipped with LED backlight and battery charging indicator. Returning to the problems with the electric screwdriver, it should be noted that any of the above elements can cause malfunction of the tool. What is needed for repair? The first thing you need to find the cause of the failure, and then make the appropriate decision to fix it. The tool can be divided into two parts: electrical and mechanical. The first thing to do is to find out what the problem is with the electric wrench: mechanical or electrical. It shouldn’t be too hard to do, so let’s look at the breakdowns in more detail.
Identify the mechanical faults of the screwdrivers can be identified by such a sign as the audibility of the functioning of the electric motor. When you press the start button, you hear signs of the electric motor functioning, but the tool chuck does not rotate, or you hear distinctive malfunctioning sounds when it rotates.
Read also: To harden the steel 45
The design of an electric screwdriver is simple enough, but a significant disadvantage is that all elements are almost 2-3 times smaller than on an electric drill. Mechanical possible breakdowns of an electric screwdriver include the following malfunctions:
Chuck breakage. Although quick-action chucks are more versatile and easier to use, they have a major disadvantage: their lifespan is very short. It is impossible to repair a quick-clamp chuck, so if the tool refuses to hold a drill bit or bit, the chuck should be removed and replaced with a new one. This is one of the most frequent faults of the tool, but it is not necessary to disassemble the electric screwdriver.
It should be noted that the small dimensions of the mechanical part of the tool somewhat complicate the repair process of the tool, so be sure to be careful when carrying out repairs.
Unlike a drill, screwdrivers function mainly on batteries. This means that these tools have different electric motors. It is not difficult to determine the electric part of an electric screwdriver. If the battery is charged but you do not hear the electric motor sound when you press the start button, the problem is in the electrics. Let’s consider the main types of faults of screwdrivers on the electric part.
- Battery malfunction. The first thing to look at is the battery. Screwdrivers generally use low-quality nickel-cadmium batteries. They have a major disadvantage, which is the need to charge it only when it is completely “dead”. They should not be recharged as this will reduce their life. If one day the electric screwdriver fails to function, don’t rush to disassemble it and make sure the battery is functional and giving off a charge. Check it by connecting a second battery. The battery charge can also be checked with a tester, which should show the corresponding voltage value.
- Charger malfunction. There is a special charger for charging the battery. If the battery is discharged even after you have charged it, you should check the integrity of the charger. There are usually light indicators on the battery chargers for this. If they are not, you should use a multimeter.
- Switch-on button defective. You need to check the starter button, as often the cause of its inoperability is oxidation of the contacts or dust ingress. The tool should be disassembled and the contacts cleaned. Buttons usually on screwdrivers have a function to regulate the speed of the chuck, for which a transistor is installed. If the tool is working, but the speed control function is missing, the transistor must be replaced.
Now you know the basic signs and types of failure of an electric screwdriver. You do not need to be an expert to repair it, but just have the tools and time to spare.
YouTube How to Insert the Bit into an Electric Screwdriver?
The start button is designed in such a way that the rotating speed can be regulated by the force of the push.
An important element of an electric screwdriver is its power source. If drills are available in versions both powered from the network, and in standalone (battery) variant, the screwdrivers, due to the peculiarities of use, are almost exclusively battery-powered. The battery is the heaviest and most expensive part of an electric screwdriver.
Household models of electric screwdrivers are usually equipped with nickel-cadmium batteries (designated “Ni-Cd”), and the more expensive professional ones with lithium-ion (“Li-Ion”) batteries. Nickel cadmium batteries have a shorter life span (around 1000 recharges) and have an annoying feature: If the battery is not fully discharged, its capacity is reduced when it is charged later.
But whatever the battery, its capacity is limited by the weight of the tool. Therefore, even the most expensive models of screwdrivers are able to work continuously for no more than a few hours. Some manufacturers solve this problem by adding a second spare battery to the electric screwdriver. However, this considerably increases the cost of the tool. Charging the battery from a normal mains supply. The charging rate again depends on the model and can be from 2-3 to 6 hours, although in some models of the screwdriver provides a “fast” charging for 10-15 minutes.