How to grease the interior of a Makita rotary hammer. How to grease a chuck of the hammer
How to grease a Makita 2450 chain saw
Greetings on my website! In this article we will talk about lubrication. This tool not only requires simple care in operation. It is obligatory to periodically lubricate the gearbox and the chuck.
Of course, the gearbox is already lubricated at the factory. But in time, the grease leaks somewhere and dries out somewhere. It is also designed to reduce friction only, not eliminate it. So one way or another, the parts still rub against each other, which gradually leads to the formation of fine metal dust, which remains in the grease.
As a result of such mixing of metal and lubricant, the properties of the latter are gradually lost and the wear of parts is accelerated.
Inexpensive Chinese torches can also be badly oiled at the factory. Experienced masters of service centers recommend after the purchase of even a new such machine to disassemble and lubricate it immediately
The cartridge comes dry at the factory. the chuck itself is not fully blessed, but only the part of it that is in contact with the auger, because it is there where the strong friction occurs, and without reducing which you can damage the chuck and the auger shank.
So, let’s see below how and how to lubricate these elements. We will consider SDS peorator with the horizontal motor location, as it is used by home masters in the vast majority of cases, and the article is mainly written for them.
What needs to be lubricated
Lubricate the gearbox and bearings inside the cutter according to the operating instructions. Maintenance can be done with your own hands.
Concrete dust is an excellent abrasive material. It gets inside and accelerates the wear of the chuck and bit shank. Before each insertion of accessories into the chuck the core drill shank is thoroughly cleaned from dust and other contaminants and lubricated. Apply “Lithol” on shank splines. in closed and open grooves, which is evenly distributed along their entire length.
Most tool owners prefer the included release agent, but
Many people prefer the classic fat solidol or “Lithol”. The latter shows good results, but is not without its disadvantages.
- Material is known for its low water resistance. it is able to let moisture to contact surfaces, which causes corrosion of metal components. Rust accelerates the wear of the cartridge.
- The peculiarity of lithol as a grease for a chuck. fast wear. After a dozen minutes of work, “Lithol” turns into machining, its mechanical performance drops, and the efficiency decreases.
- Cost. Yes, yes, accessibility is a weakness in this situation. If the grease is cheap, it means it is applied without sparing, and in vain. Such generosity has not yet benefited any cartridge.
- ready to stop work periodically to replace worn-out grease with new one in the amounts recommended by the manufacturer. a drop in each groove;
- not working and not storing the peorator in the conditions of high humidity;
- Those who want to save money on lubricants;
- It is not recommended to save money on consumables for professional models if you own a reasonably-priced torch.
If drops of oil fly out of the chuck during operation, it means that it is not designed for high temperature operation, the shank of the nozzle is too hot or too much oil is applied.
Gearboxes of geared motors are of two kinds. In devices with cranked crank mechanism is a model with a swing bearing separated from the percussion group. implemented by ratchet type.
Gearbox is a pair of pinions with straight or beveled teeth that transmit torque to the chuck and bit. Peorator gear lubricant is generously applied to the teeth of all the gears and components of the “drunken bearing” percussion group. To do this, the device will have to be disassembled, get rid of the used compound, while assessing the condition of the mechanical components. is it not time to replace them.
The lubricant should be inert to the plastic that makes up a large portion of the housings, especially inexpensive torches.
The frequency of grease change for a specific model is specified in the operating instructions and varies depending on:
- the quality of the metal from which the moving parts are made
- the intensity of use of the tool
- the level of heating of the components;
- the quality and quantity of the lubricant;
- operating conditions.
For most inexpensive gears, maintenance is recommended every 200 hours of operation, provided a good lubricant is used. If the tool is used infrequently, lubricate every six months before use. All synthetic lubricants decompose over time and lose their initial properties.
Before working at low and subzero temperatures, the trimmer should work for a minute or two at low idle speed to heat the grease. thickened compound is not as effective.
Gear and bearing grease should fill about 1/3 of the free volume. If you put more grease on it, it gets pretty hot, accelerating the aging of the metal.
Gear chuck is not lubricated separately. It is sufficient to put the compound on the shank of the drill bit or drill bit.
How to Grease a Gearbox
Different types of grease are used for the lubrication of the gearbox and the drill bit cartridge.
It uses a special grease, which should be called as such. gear lubricant. It can be under the same brands as the machines themselves. Makita, Bosch, AEG, etc.д. But it can also be produced by a company that deals with exactly this type of product, such as Ravenol, Shell, Xado, etc.
Some people use for this purpose simple lithol or salidol. But they dry out quicker and do not eliminate friction as much as necessary compared to special lubricating products.
Drill bit grease
It’s exactly the same here. Special greases for this purpose are called drill bit greases. And they are usually made by the same companies that make stators.
If you do not have special grease, you can use graphite grease. But it is not so good at taking the heat away from the shank, and this is important, because sometimes in continuous use the shank is flattened, and then it is hard to remove it.
How to Determine a Stator’s Continuity Without Disassembling It
To determine the integrity of the stator, you need to test its windings, measure the winding resistance and insulation resistance.
Diagram of the stator and the rotor
To measure the winding resistance of a Makita stator you need to connect one end of the tester to the freed brush holder and the other end to one end of the electric plug. If it shows nothing, change the other end of the plug. If resistance is infinity, there is a break in the stator and it must be replaced or repaired. Don’t forget that you can’t do without the circuit diagram of the Makita 2450, 2470.
A simple wiring diagram for a collector motor
If any resistance is showing, it’s important to measure the exact value. As a rule, the stator winding resistance of a Makita 2450 stator at 20ºC is in the range of 25 ohms.
To understand in more detail why armature collector sparking occurs and which brushes are best? The video will help you understand, at the end of the video review are important tips for selecting brushes
How to remove a Makita 2450 and 2470 stator for accurate diagnosis and repair
To remove the stator pos.59 remove the brushes, unscrew the four cover screws of the mechanical block. These are screwed into the endcap. By pulling the black housing and the green one in different directions you will release the housing with the stator. The stator is mounted in the green housing.
To remove the stator remove the plastic seal pos.58 and hit the end of the housing with a wooden mallet or pry bar. The stator will come out by itself, you just have to take it out, blow it out, and check it finally.
And here is the stator
If you have a short circuit tester, you can test the stator for short circuits straight away. The device is called the IK-32. To accurately test stator windings disconnect the two stator windings from each other in an electrical circuit. Check the resistance of each winding, it must be exactly the same. If there is a resistance difference, the winding with the lower resistance is likely to have an inter-turn fault.
Checking the stator of a Makita 2470 and 2450 with your own hands Diagnosis of the armature, stator with a short circuit and a self-made device
How to grease and assemble a Makita 2450 and 2470 peorator correctly
All machinery should be assembled after careful preparation. You must prepare not only the parts but also the tools, the place, the lubricant.
The tools you need are pliers, screwdrivers, a hammer, a brush to apply lubricant.
And what is the assembly diagram of the Makita 2450 and 2470?
The Makita torch can only be assembled with your own hands if you follow the included instructions.
The aim of the assembly process is to replace defective parts with serviceable parts and to ensure interchangeability and serviceability of the tool.
Firing mechanism assembly
How to assemble the impact mechanism of a Makita rotary hammer?The percussion mechanism consists of two units: a shaft with a spur gear and an intermediate shaft with a roller bearing.
А). On the barrel pos.21 The spur gear pos.19 and pressed by the compression spring pos.18.For fixation the spring is pressed by washer 30 pos.17 and secured with the retaining ring 28 pos.16.Б). To assemble the striker put on the ring 9 pos.25 on the striker shaft, tighten the rubber ring pos.26, press down with a metal ring pos.27.
Now move on to the opposite side of the barrel pos.21. On the other side, the internal surface of the barrel should be lubricated and the assembled firing pin pos.24.
Assembling the intermediate shaft assembly
To assemble the intermediate shaft you need a roller bearing pos.41 slide on the shaft pos.40 with teeth against the splines of the shaft and put on the splines of the shaft the coupling pos.39.
On the opposite side of the shaft, slash pinion 26 pos.42., flat washer 8 pos.45, bearing 608zz pos.46 and locking ring 8 pos.47.Intermediate shaft assembled.
Assembly of the gearbox unit
Assemble the gearbox assembly on the inner housing pos.49.
By the way, there are cases where the axles pop out of the inner aluminum housing. Both axes are pressed into the housing.
Into the body pos.49 the assembled intermediate shaft is inserted, the lever of the rolling bearing should get into the hole of the hinge of the cylinder.
Rolling bearing lever pos.41 of the intermediate shaft should hit the cylinder joint pos.32 and the lower bearing of the intermediate shaft into the socket in the housing. This procedure is usually done by rocking the structure until the parts are fully seated in the designated areas.
Installing the mode switch lever
The mode switch is designed for transferring the clutch pos.39 in various positions and transmitting progressive motion to the striker shaft via the roller bearing pos.41 to the cylinder pos.32.
Assembling the switch lever of the Makita 2450
On the axle of the inner body should be put on the lever of the mode switch pos.82, top with compression spring pos.88, press flat washer pos.87. Fit retaining ring pos.86. and fix.
5 kg Demolition hammer greasing problem /hammering problem
It is essential that the snap ring is fixed in place carefully. By turning the intermediate shaft carefully check correct function and free movement of the cylinder in the.
This should be done now so that it does not turn out at the end of assembly that it is not assembled correctly.
Assemble the striker shaft
First you have to grease the inside of the cylinder pos.32 and insert the striker pos.30.
Left in the inner casing pos.49 put a lubricated barrel assembly pos.21 in place by putting it on the lubricated cylinder pos.32.As a lubricant, we recommend using a special grease designed for Makita torches.
Lubricants are available in several types: Makita P-08361 and Makita 183477-5 SDS-PLUS.
Makita 183477-5 SDS-PLUS grease is recommended for the gearbox. Makita 196804-7 grease is used for the drill shanks.
The greases are different colors but have exactly the same characteristics.Also, what kind of grease is used in the Makita 2450 and 2470 peorator?
Here we have the assembled mechanical unit.
General disassembly and reassembly of the Makita 2450
Check its operation by rotating the intermediate shaft and checking the movement of the piston in the percussion mechanism. All!
Now lubricate all parts of the mechanical unit with the recommended grease. Here is an example of how to properly lubricate the rotating surfaces.
And here is another example of generous greasing of the mechanical unit.
It is also allowed to apply grease in this way. Nothing can be spoiled by oil!
The lubricated mechanical block must be covered with plastic cover pos.14 black.Putting the housing on top of the assembly, press the housing until the assembly is fully seated in it.The four bolts of the pos.10 into the housing and screw it in.
Now it’s the turn of the connection to the mechanical part of the electric motor rotor.Installing the rotor The helical gear of the rotor is firmly inserted into the housing of the mechanical unit and pressed down.
Remain to insert four self-tapping screws m4×60 pos.57. and screw them into the body of the electric unit.
Installing the electric brushes
Remove dirt from the brush holder grooves and set the brushes in place by securing them with clips.
Now it is time to check the function of the torque limiter. Connect the plug of the torch to the socket, switch on the torch in “drilling” mode for a short while.
Once you are sure the tool is working properly, turn it off. Put the mode switch in the “shock” position. Do not insert the tool.Check the function of the horn in this position.
At the same time you have checked the function of the mode switch.
Now the stowage of the speed regulator button remains to be checked, to make sure that the contact connections are secure, and then you can proceed to install the cover plate.
The cover is fastened with three self-tapping screws M×4 of different lengths.
Connect the machine to a 220 ① socket and test in all operating modes.Your Makita 2450 or 2470 is assembled and working properly!
What kind of grease is needed for the tool?
In order to reduce the wear and tear of the internal parts of the torch, and a good torch is well-priced, you should choose a lubricant that will minimize this wear and tear as far as possible.
Lubricant can be in liquid form, which is used in those peorators, where the gearbox is located in a completely closed housing. The oil is retained by special gland seals and poured through special holes, which are then tightly closed.
Before changing the oil, be sure to wash the internal parts with either gasoline or machine oil. This is in the case if the housing is non-disassembled. The amount of oil is specified in the instruction manual of the tool.
the grease works great for cooling, pinions are like swimming in oil, getting lubricated from all sides. But there is one drawback. Since it is a closed space, the oil expands during heating, which is inevitable during operation of these tools, and increases the pressure in the housing.
Another type of grease is grease. Its use is more widespread.
It is much more convenient in use, because of its density it adheres better to the parts. In order to lubricate the gear reducer with your own hands, it is necessary to disassemble it in detail, using the instructions for disassembly. You can read about this in detail in the article “Lubricant for the gearbox”. In order to decide what kind of grease should be in the gearbox of your peorator, you should also consider whether your tool is under warranty.
If the warranty has not expired, you should use the grease recommended by the manufacturer.
Companies such as Makita and Bosch make their own grease that protects tools from premature wear and tear.
What kind of grease to choose for your Makita gearbox
These manufacturers also produce liquid or grease. For a 30 gram tube and can be used for other brands. According to reviews, very good quality.
After the warranty expires, it’s up to the tool owner to decide what kind of grease to use to lubricate his or her tool, to find his or her own version, or to use the grease recommended by the company.
I would like to go back to Lithol. Users, who have Chinese or Chinese-Russian tools, note the fact that the use of Lithol in these tools increases the impact force of the tool, while reducing the noise level of the tool. You just need to lubricate it 1.5 times more often.
Also, Lithol liquefies faster when heated and leaks. But this grease doesn’t spoil the tool, though in some models it can cause severe heating of parts and additional braking.
Servicing the Geareducer
Like every tool, a rotary tool needs to be well taken care of.
How to apply Hammer Grease into Makita Rotary Hammer Drill HR5211C 52mm
The tool does not belong to the category of cheap tools, so, timely made maintenance will allow your tool to serve for many years. Especially since the peorator requires it more often than any other tool. Remember, what conditions this tool works in. Dust, vibration, the nozzle digs into concrete or brick with a reciprocating motion.
As written above, internal gear parts need to be lubricated to avoid friction between them. But once you lubricate them, it’s not enough. Dust particles get into the oil through the technological holes, and it itself becomes different, with the dust in it becoming a kind of abrasive, which helps the rapid wear of parts. Therefore, to keep the tool in working order for a long time, it is necessary to inspect it periodically and change the lubricant.
Therefore, when buying a machine, please read the technical documents carefully and make sure to read the information on the lubricant to be used and maintenance intervals.
If the machine is purchased through a dealer or from a store that has the proper certification, you should use the lubricants that are listed in the documentation for the duration of the warranty. You may also have maintenance performed at one of our service centers.
The inspection should be carried out when the tool suddenly smells like burning rubber, has an unstable function or short circuits, or if it emits unusual noises. This will be a reason to immediately contact a warranty repair shop or inspect the machine yourself.
At the end of the warranty period you can choose either to continue to use the lubricant or to buy cheaper analogues.
If you bought a tool made in China, that does not mean that it will break right away, as luck would have it, but it may not have maintenance centers and warranty as well. That’s why you should be ready to serve and choose your own lubricant.
Gearbox of a torus is the most complex unit of the device, so it requires special attention. It is not difficult to lubricate the geared unit, but reassembling the disassembled unit on your own can be very difficult. If the peorator is still under warranty, then with a question on the lubrication of its gearbox is best to apply to a specialized workshop, which provides warranty service of such equipment.
The detailed scheme of your geared motor will help you to understand the mechanism and to assemble the tool correctly
If your torque converter is not covered by any warranty or if the warranty period has expired, and if an authorized service center is located far enough away, you can grease the reducer yourself, taking utmost care and attention. To do this, you will need:
- a set of locksmith tools, with which you will assemble and disassemble the gearbox of the peorator;
- a clean rag;
- the compound itself to make the grease.
“Native” grease for the Makita P-08361 gearbox. Refilled during initial tool assembly and recommended for maintenance
Better if the lubricant is a brand-name product specifically designed for a particular brand of equipment. For example, it can be grease for a Makita torch or grease for a Bosch torch. If you have no original lubricant and you cannot buy any, you may also use inexpensive domestic lubricants.
It is very important that you have the instruction manual for the Geareducer you are going to lubricate. Naturally, if you own a Makita or Bosch torch, it should be the instruction manual of these brands.
All gearbox parts should be completely free of old grease
Having carefully studied the instruction manual, you can proceed to the procedure of lubricating the gearbox.
- Carefully remove dust from the gear unit before disassembly.
- When taking the gear unit apart, you should immediately make a note of the location of the structural elements of the gear unit. Please note that you should not attempt to disassemble and relubricate the Geareducer immediately after you have finished using it. The reason for this is that even when the gearbox parts are still hot, they can lose their physical properties when exposed to the cold lubricant.
- After all components have been removed from the gearbox housing, wash them thoroughly with gasoline or spindle oil and wipe them dry.
- The inside of the gearbox housing should also be washed and wiped down (as much as possible) and allowed to dry completely.
- When disassembling the geared motor you may notice that some elements of its construction are free of grease. This means only that such parts do not require lubrication and there is no need to apply lubricant to them.
- As mentioned above, it is better to use a branded lubricant for the gearbox of your drill or torch, which has a number of advantages. In particular, branded lubricants retain their original characteristics for much longer, so they can be used much less frequently. In addition, the branded lubricant has the important quality of water resistance, so it effectively protects the metal parts of the gears from moisture and, therefore, from corrosion. As a good alternative to the brand name oils for the gearboxes of your rotary tool or drill, Metabo gear oil is available at an affordable price.
- After lubricating all the elements, the reducer must be carefully assembled in the reverse order.
Maintaining the tool includes not only lubricating the gearbox but also applying a lubricant to the shank of the drill used.
Clean tool shank thoroughly before performing this procedure. After that special grease or common lithol grease is usually used. over, if you have an open chuck installed in your rotary tool, it is advisable to first wipe off its gland to ensure better protection against dust inside the chuck.
How to properly lubricate the gearbox
Having decided on the brand, let’s start the routine maintenance. Liquid oils are drained from the gearbox by analogy with a car. If the oil looks too dirty and has abrasive particles in it, the gearbox must be washed with a special compound.
The housing can also be disassembled and thoroughly cleaned. Then carefully reassemble (replacing gaskets if necessary) and pour the new compound through the original holes.
Step by step video instruction on lubrication of the geared motor
The amount of oil can be found in the documentation. If this is not available you can measure the volume of the drained oil. But in this case natural losses should be taken into account.
With grease compounds is somewhat easier. The gearbox is clearly disassembled and the components can be removed (take care not to lose the springs and retaining rings).
Then the metal parts and the gearbox housing are thoroughly cleaned and washed. Generally kerosene is used (aggressive detergents can damage sealing bushes and gaskets).
Lubricate the assembled gearbox (without cover). It should completely cover all gears and moving parts of the mechanism. The layer thickness is no more than 5 mm, the inner cavities are filled completely.
However, you should not work according to the principle: “you can’t spoil oatmeal with oil”. Unnecessary lubrication will make the machine more difficult to operate and will cause the gasket or oil seal to leak out.
The illustration shows how not to grease the gearbox.
Lubrication intervals are not based on calendar days, but on engine-hours. You can find this information in the documentation of the tool. It should be remembered that “universal” greases like Lithol last for a shorter period of time.
With the right lubricant, you can service the tool yourself without having to call a service technician. The exception is when the instrument is under warranty.