How To Grip Tiller

About clutch

The design of a multi-disk gearbox with a pressure spring is considered traditional. This requires a crankcase into which the oil is poured. Such a clutch has the following design:

  • leading and driven half-coupling;
  • leading and driven disks;
  • disc spring;
  • thrust ring.


Principle of operation

When the clutch lever is released, the discs are compressed by a spring. When they rub against each other, torque is transferred from the engine to the gearbox. When the lever is squeezed out, the force is transmitted by the cable to the clutch release lever. The spring is compressed by the action of the fork. The master and slave disks are decoupled. Torque ceases to be transmitted.

Different models may have different clutch designs. For example, as a V-belt transmission or single-disc (multi-disc) friction clutch.

About brakes

A trailer is provided for the transportation of goods by the tiller. As a rule, the wheels of the cart and the tiller work independently of each other. Given the characteristics of the land surface in rural areas, this is an advantage. And the presence of brakes is a must. After all, even a slight descent can turn into a problem.

To make your own brakes, you can use a car parking unit for this, which should be slightly adapted. It is allowed to install band brakes, but there will be little sense from them.

To install a trailer on a trailer, you can take motorcycle drum brakes. It is necessary to remove the rod and cable from the disk, make a groove on a lathe. After that, you can proceed with the installation on the trolley. You need to put the drum on the hub. After grooving, the disc should be put on the axle, closed with a bushing. To avoid turning the disc, a piece of pipe can be welded to it. It remains to supplement the elements with a cable and a lever.

If we go back to the use of the car parking brake, then it includes a brake mechanism and a drive in its design. Using the lever, the control activates the work of the mechanical drive, the brake system is activated. In this case, the force is also transmitted through the cables in the amount of three pieces: the rear ones are in contact with the wheels of the trolley, and the front ones. with the lever. Accordingly, they are attached to these elements. Using a nut, you can change the length of the mechanical drive.

To remove the cart from the brake, you just need to rearrange the lever to its initial position, which helps to make a return spring.

You don’t really need blueprints to figure out how to proceed. It is enough to look at the photo of what the brake looks like, use an analogue from some vehicle and install it on your tiller, taking into account its design features. After all, the system of work is quite simple and straightforward. And if there is a desire to complete the task on your own, it means that there is appropriate knowledge and skill for this.

Tiller clutch and brakes

The tiller device is quite simple, but it is enough to effectively cope with many tasks of soil cultivation. If the site is small, then such a unit can be a productive replacement for manual labor. It will not take much time and effort to cultivate the soil. all this can be done by one tiller equipped with special attachments.

Returning to the device, it is really simple: engine, transmission, chassis, controls. Part of the transmission is the clutch, which transfers torque from the engine shaft to the gearbox shaft. The clutch also ensures that the motor and gearbox are decoupled when shifting occurs. This allows you to start smoothly and stop without shutting down the motor.

The importance of details

Every tiller component is important. Any knot should not be neglected. Given the simplicity of the design of the unit, any part of it has a strong influence on the operation process. Brakes and clutch are no exception. These elements are simply necessary for the full functioning of any tiller: Neva, Agro, Zubr or any other. The brakes are part of the safety of the device, and the clutch is the ability to fully move and operate the entire tiller.

Additionally, you can view photos and videos to have a visual representation of how the elements look.

All About Tiller Clutch

Tillers greatly facilitate the work of farmers and owners of their own backyard plots. This article will focus on such an important structural element of this unit as the clutch.

Clutch adjustment

It should be noted that when working, certain recommendations must be followed in order to avoid premature breakdowns and unnecessary problems arising from improper handling of equipment. The clutch pedal must be pressed and released smoothly, without sudden movements. Otherwise, the engine may simply stall, then you will need to spend extra time and effort to start it again. During the operation of the tiller, the following malfunctions are possible related to the clutch mechanism.

  • When the clutch is fully depressed, the technique begins to accelerate sharply. In this situation, just try to tighten the adjusting screw.
  • The clutch pedal is released, but the machine does not move or does not move at an adequate speed. Loosen the adjustment screw slightly and test the ride of the motorcycle.

In case of strange noises, crackling, knocking coming from the area of ​​the gearbox, stop the unit immediately. The most common reasons for this are low oil levels or poor quality. Before starting to work on the tiller, be sure to check the presence and quantity of oil. Change / add oil and start the unit. If the noise has not stopped, stop the tiller and invite a specialist to inspect your equipment.

If you have problems with shifting gears, test the clutch, adjust it. Then inspect the gearbox for worn parts and check the shafts. splines may have worn out.

Purpose and varieties

The clutch carries out an inertial transfer of torque from the crankshaft to the transmission gearbox, ensures a smooth start of movement and gear shifting, and regulates the contact of the gearbox with the tiller motor. If we consider the design features, then the clutch mechanisms can be divided into:

  • friction;
  • hydraulic;
  • electromagnetic;
  • centrifugal;
  • single, double or multi-disc;
  • belt.

According to the operating environment, a distinction is made between wet (in an oil bath) and dry mechanisms. According to the switching mode, a permanently closed and non-permanently closed device is divided. By the way in which torque is transmitted. one stream or two, one. and two-stream systems are distinguished. The design of any clutch mechanism includes the following elements:

  • control node;
  • leading details;
  • driven components.

The friction clutch is most popular among farmers-owners of motoblock equipment, because it is easy to maintain, high efficiency and long continuous operation. The principle of operation is the use of friction forces that arise between the contacting faces of the driven and driving parts. The leading components work in rigid connection with the engine crankshaft, and the driven ones. with the main shaft of the gearbox or (in its absence) with the next transmission unit. The elements of the friction system are usually flat discs, but in some models of tillers a different shape is implemented. shoe or conical.

In a hydraulic system, the moment of movement is transmitted through a fluid, the pressure on which is provided by a piston. The piston is returned to its original position by means of springs. In the electromagnetic form of the clutch, a different principle is implemented. the movement of the elements of the system occurs under the influence of the forces of electromagnetism.

This type refers to permanently open. The centrifugal type of clutch is used in gearboxes that carry out automatic gear shifting. Not very common due to rapid wear of parts and long slip times. The disk type, regardless of the number of disks, is based on the same principle. Differs in reliability and provides smooth start / stop of the unit.

The belt clutch is characterized by low reliability, low efficiency and rapid wear, especially when operating with high-power motors.

How to do it yourself?

The clutch on the tiller can be made or changed on your own, if you have experience in locksmith work. To make or replace a homemade mechanism, you can use spare parts from cars or from a scooter:

  • flywheel and shaft from the Moskvich gearbox;
  • hub and rotary cam from Tavria;
  • pulley with two handles for the driven part;
  • crankshaft from “GAZ-69”;
  • B-profile.

Before you start the process of installing the clutch, carefully study the drawings of the mechanism. The diagrams clearly show the relative position of the elements and the step-by-step instructions for assembling them into a single structure. The first step is to sharpen the crankshaft so that it does not have contact with other parts of the system. Then place the motoblock hub on the shaft. Then prepare a groove on the shaft for the release bearing. Try to do everything carefully and accurately so that the hub sits tightly on the shaft, and the pulley with handles turns freely. Repeat the same operation with the other end of the crankshaft.

Insert a 5 mm drill into the drill and carefully drill 6 holes in the pulley, at equal distances from each other. On the inside of the wheel connected to the drive cable (belt), you also need to prepare the corresponding holes. Place the prepared pulley on the flywheel and fix it with the bolt. Mark the locations corresponding to the pulley holes. Twist the bolt and separate the parts. Now carefully drill holes in the flywheel. Reconnect the parts and tighten the fixing bolts. The flywheel and the crankshaft must be sharpened from the inside. to exclude the possibility of clinging and beating parts against each other. The system is ready. Place it in its proper place in your machine. Connect the cables, while taking them away from rubbing parts.

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If you have a small unit, the belt option may also suit you. Take two sturdy V-shaped belts with a length of about 140 cm. The B-profile is ideal. Open the gearbox and install a pulley on its main shaft. Install the tandem roller on the spring loaded bracket. Note that a minimum of 8 bracket links must be associated with the clutch start pedal. And a double roller is needed to ensure the necessary tension on the belts during operation and to loosen them in the event of slipping / idling. To minimize the wear of elements, provide in the design block-stops for idle operation of the motor.

Do not forget to connect the gearbox to the system, it is better to use a new one, but you can also use a used car part, for example, “Oki”.

Consider another way to independently design a clutch system. Attach a flywheel to the engine. Then connect the clutch system removed from the car using an adapter that can be made from the crankshaft from the Volga. Secure the flywheel to the engine crankshaft. Place the clutch basket with the pallet facing up. Check that the dimensions of the shaft flange mountings and the basket plates are identical.

If necessary, increase the required clearances with a file. The gearbox and gearbox can be removed from the old unnecessary car (check the serviceability and general condition). Assemble the entire structure and test its operation.

When making your own tiller systems, do not forget about an important point: parts of the unit’s units should not cling to the soil (except for wheels, of course, and tools for tillage).

You can find out more about how a heavy tiller clutch overhaul occurs.

Unit electrical system

Medium and heavy tillers are equipped with an electric generator that charges the battery and powers the headlight. The main function of the battery is to start the engine of the mini-tractor using an electric starter. On medium and heavy tillers, it is possible to connect several headlights (main and rear for a trailer), direction indicators.

The power of the working generator is sufficient for the installation of additional electrical equipment, as well as for the stable simultaneous operation of all electrical devices of the tiller. Manufacturing plants have provided for the possibility of additional installation of electrical equipment and equip mini-tractors with generators with a power reserve of about 30%.

The battery capacity corresponds to the starting current of the electric starter. Most mini-tractor models are equipped with generators without electrical excitation. It will be replaced by constantly rotating magnets. Most often, manufacturers install single-phase generators that produce alternating current.

How can you make a light on a tiller?

How to make a light on a tiller, because most models are not equipped with headlights? tiller (mini-tractor) is a mechanism that is designed for agricultural work (plowing, cultivation, watering, etc.). Many models can be used as a vehicle by means of trailers. In this form, tillers transport people and goods, which makes harvesting easier.

Self-installation of the headlight

If the unit was purchased without a lighting system, then you should not be upset. You can install it yourself. Some manufacturers sell the lighting kit separately (headlight, wires and switch), earning extra money from this option, realizing that most owners will use the tiller as a vehicle. The engine has a special place for connecting the factory headlight. It would seem that this is a little money in comparison with the price of a mini-tractor, but why spend it if the lighting can be made from improvised means?

Let’s consider in detail how to connect the headlight to the tiller. The first step is to find the lighting element itself. Almost every owner of the unit has another mechanical device (car, moped, scooter, tractor), to which additional headlights are attached. If this is not the case, then a used headlight can be purchased at disassembly points or in the automotive market to save money. If possible, it is best to purchase a new headlight that can be matched to the color of your mini tractor. A headlight for a small motorcycle or scooter is suitable for this.

It is necessary to purchase both a toggle switch and the required length of electrical wire.

The most convenient place to install the toggle switch (switch) of the headlight is the steering column near the gear lever.

We install and fix the switch. Next, we move on to installing the headlight. Find a place that’s comfortable for her. The front of the engine or the steering column is best suited for installing this equipment. Experts advise to mount the headlight on the steering column tube, because the one placed on the engine will get dirty when driving in the rain. Next, we stretch the wires. If there is a place on the tiller for connecting the factory headlight, then we connect the wires to it, but if it is absent, then it is most convenient to draw the power from the terminal of the oil pressure indicator lamp. Next, we connect the wires to the switch, and from it we pull the cord to the headlight, using the tiller body as a mass. We fasten the wires with clamps or electrical tape to the steering column.

How to adjust the tiller clutch

For the smooth operation of the clutch system and the entire tiller as a whole, it is important to follow the care recommendations and regularly maintain the unit. This will avoid premature breakdowns and extend the life of the agricultural machine.

  • The clutch lever should be pressed and released smoothly, without jerking, otherwise a sharp force transmitting to the crankshaft may cause the engine to stop during operation.
  • If the tiller starts to accelerate sharply when the clutch is depressed, it is necessary to adjust by turning the adjustment screw. To do this, you need 2 wrenches: 10 and 12. It is necessary to loosen the lock nut and unscrew the adjusting screw. After adjustment, you need to see if there is a gap, and, if there is, the screw is clamped and fixed with a lock nut.
  • If the machine drives very slowly or stops when the clutch is released, the screw is slightly loosened, after which the movement of the cultivator is tested.
  • In the event of extraneous noise from the agricultural machinery gearbox, you must immediately stop the engine and check the oil level in the gearbox housing. If there is not enough gear oil, add it, then start the tiller. If noises persist, disassemble the mechanism and replace worn or damaged elements.
  • In case of problems with shifting gears, you must first adjust the clutch. If this does not help, you need to inspect the gearbox and check the shafts. the splines may have worn out. Worn parts must be replaced.

How to make a clutch frame for a tiller with your own hands: the simplest way

If the clutch is not installed in the design of your tiller, then you can make a clutch frame for the tiller with your own hands. This system must transmit torque from the engine crankshaft to the gearbox. The process is based on the action of the clutch on the tiller. This separates the motor and gearbox. Due to this system, the cultivator begins to move smoothly from a place and stops without turning off the motor.

What tasks does the clutch perform for the tiller

The tiller clutch performs the following functions:

  • transmits torque;
  • dampens rotation fluctuations;
  • smoothly shifts gears;
  • connects gears;
  • connects and disconnects the connection between the engine and the gearbox;
  • disconnects the transmission from the flywheel.

Depending on the design of the cultivator, the clutch is of different types.

The centrifugal system uses a clutch cable on the chiller, flywheel, shaft, handle, disc, washer. Under heavy loads, the system slips, therefore it is not widely used.

The hydraulic clutch of the tiller transmits the movement of the piston under pressure on the pedal through the connecting rod, which directs the working fluid through the channel in a squeeze manner. The piston acts on the lever through the connecting rod, the handle returns back with a spring.

The automatic clutch on the tiller is installed on cultivators with high engine power. Single-disc and multi-disc systems ensure smooth switching on of the unit and the beginning of its movement.

How to make a clutch frame for a tiller with your own hands

Let’s consider how to make a clutch frame for a tiller with your own hands. The belt clutch, which is installed on most cultivators, wears out quickly, the V-belt system does not have high strength and reliability, has a low efficiency, and is not used for cultivators with a powerful engine. Therefore, many owners are reworking and modernizing such a system.

Consider how to make a homemade clutch mechanism.

You need to take as a basis:

  • flywheel and gearbox shaft from a Moskvich car;
  • hub and swivel mechanism from the Tavria car;
  • metallic profile;
  • pulley;
  • steel billet from the GAZ-69 car, which can be used as a crankshaft.

Homemade products are made by sharpening a steel billet on a lathe. This is necessary in order to put the hub on the manufactured shaft.

Modification of the tiller clutch is carried out as follows. After installing the pulley on the shaft, it is necessary to sharpen the seat according to the dimensions of the pulley ring diameter for the support bearing.

It is necessary that the hub fits without gaps, the pulley spins well.

After that, you need to turn the device over and perform the same actions on the other side. Then, with a drill with a 5 mm drill, 6 holes are made in the pulley, located at the same distance from each other.

Since 10 mm bolts will be used, holes are drilled on the back using a 12 mm drill for the wheel, which is designed to drive the belt.

Then a pulley is mounted on the flywheel and holes are made with the same drill, and then the parts are pulled together with a bolt.

While the pulley is on the flywheel, mark through the holes in the pulley on the flywheel. Then remove the pulley and drill these 6 holes.

After that, using bolts measuring 10 mm, it is necessary to tighten the structure. In this case, the thread of the bolt without the head must be 60 mm. The inside of the crankshaft should be sharpened with a blank. To prevent the flywheel from hitting and moving smoothly, it is necessary to sharpen its surface and center it along the landing hole.

Light without battery and generator

When deciding how to make a headlight for their tiller, most make the most difficult technical decisions. Making a light without a generator and battery can be simple, fast and inexpensive if you use bicycle lights. This option can be used as the main or alternative light source for any motor vehicle: tiller, cultivator, lawn mower, snow blower. A properly sized flashlight can also be fitted to a motorized dog, towing vehicle or snowmobile.

Bicycle lights have the following advantages:

  • no need for wiring;
  • minimum financial investments with high efficiency;
  • reliability in all weather conditions;
  • availability of its own charger for portable batteries;
  • the ability to mount on the steering column on the brackets that come with the kit;
  • quick removal for manual use or for charging.
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It costs two bicycle lights to purchase. It is advisable to use one for the main beam, the second for lighting directly in front of the unit.

Battery lighting

You can make a light on a tiller without a generator by installing a 12V rechargeable battery. The battery from a motorcycle, moped or boat is taken as a power source. Don’t give up your car battery. If you put a heavy power source on the cultivator, then you can solve several associated problems. equip the unit with an electric starter and significantly weight its body. In addition, it will be useful to be able to illuminate the area at night without the engine running. This feature can be useful for a picnic or night fishing.

Installation of a headlight on a tiller using a battery is carried out in the following sequence:

  • Arrangement of the frame for the power supply. It is best to use a steel corner for this. The frame should be fixed directly to the frame of the motor cultivator body. After lowering the battery into a niche, it is firmly fixed in it using steel straps.
  • Attachment of a lantern and auxiliary lights. The headlight on the tiller is placed so that it illuminates the widest possible sector without dazzling the operator and oncoming vehicles. It is better to choose devices with an adjustable glow angle.
  • The location of the electric cable in the corrugation along the unit body. Installation and connection of control devices. The tester checks the correct assembly of the electrical system.
  • Connecting the wire to the battery terminals, leading the wire to the junction box. Connection of wires to the switch, insulation of joints, joints and twists.

In order for the battery capacity to last for a long time, LED lamps must be inserted into the lanterns. They consume negligible amount of energy, creating bright lighting.

If the battery is not located under the standard hood of the tiller, then a separate casing must be made. To do this, you can take a piece of dense plastic, give it the desired shape and screw it to the homemade racks on the frame.

When deciding to install a battery, you should consider recharging it. To do this, you will need to purchase a charger or install an electric generator on a motor-cultivator.

Using a generator

If the unit is equipped with its own generator, then the solution to the issue of arranging lighting is greatly simplified. You just need to install the flashlight and supply power to it.

To do this, you will need the following tools and devices:

  • electric drill;
  • soldering iron;
  • screwdriwer set;
  • spanners;
  • nippers;
  • stationery knife;
  • electrical cable;
  • heat-shrink tubing;
  • headlight, side and turn lights.

Installation of a headlight on a tiller using a standard generator is carried out in the following sequence:

  • The bases of the lighting fixtures are screwed to the unit body. It is advisable to place the headlamp on the tiller on a separate bracket located on the front with an elevation above the ground of 100-120 cm.
  • On the steering column we install buttons for turning on the lamp, turning and side lights. You should choose devices of increased strength, in a waterproof design. Fixation is carried out with clamps or self-tapping screws for metal.
  • The electrical cable is pulled into a corrugated tube. This must be done so that the wiring is protected from moisture, mechanical damage and rodents. The corrugated tube is pulled to the steering column and frame so that there is no sagging.
  • The wires are connected to the generator and the terminals of the electrical equipment. The engine is started and the lighting system is tested. After that, all twists and joints are isolated.

When idling and at low speeds, the light dims. To keep the lighting constant, you need to use a voltage regulator or install a powerful generator.

Electric generators from MTZ tractors and ZAZ cars have proven themselves well.

These devices are compact, they can easily find a place on the body of the cultivator. To connect a non-standard generator for a tiller, you will need to make an additional bracket. It is assembled from a steel angle on the frame of the machine (there are many videos available on the Internet with a detailed description of the manufacture).

How to make a light on a tiller with your own hands

The question of how to make the light on the tiller has to be decided by everyone who purchased this unit without a standard headlight. Today, most models of domestic and foreign production are designed to work only during daylight hours. And those that have a built-in flashlight do not always provide high-quality lighting. The factory headlight illuminates a narrow sector in front of the car and quickly becomes dirty. Ready-made kits are on sale that can be installed on the Tiller Neva, Plowman, Volgar, Forza and other domestically produced units. With an average quality, such sets are expensive. You can save well if you make a light on the tiller with your own hands. With a headlamp, the cultivator will become much more functional and more convenient to use. Consider the options for how to connect the headlight to the tiller.

How to make light on tiller MTZ-09

Tiller MTZ-09, like many others (for example, Neva, Zubr, Agat) is not equipped with a headlamp for working in the evening and at night. If necessary, lighting can be made and installed by hand.

To make a headlamp for the MTZ-09, MTZ-09n or any other tiller yourself, you will need:

  • electrical wire;
  • LED or halogen light bulb (optimal power. 5 W with a minimum angle of light scattering);
  • a body from a faulty energy-saving diode lamp, or from a small bicycle headlight;
  • household switch or toggle switch.

To connect the lighting to the tiller, you can use the algorithms proposed above: through a battery without a generator, or using a standard generator.

How to mount a clutch on a tiller with your own hands?

In hot weather, the tiller is able to “pull” on itself most of the gardening and garden work, provided that all systems in it work harmoniously.

The connecting element of the transmission of most modern units is the clutch.

Why is it needed?

The clutch transmits torque from the engine crankshaft to the shaft of the gearbox or gearbox, performing important tasks:

  • Soft disconnection of the gearbox and the motor at the moment of braking without the need for a complete stop of the engine;
  • Smooth gear shifting and ignition on;

Comfortable work without unnecessary vibrations and shocks, especially when cornering. the main advantage of the clutch tiller. But its mechanism accounts for the greatest frictional force. Therefore, you will periodically need to repair or completely replace the clutch. We tell you how to make a clutch at home.

Manufacturing technology

First, prepare a drawing of the product. The simplest belt clutch. it is a movable structure consisting of an input shaft, a hub with a key and locking grooves, a bushing, a release lever, a driven pulley, a drive flywheel and a bearing.

Details of the future device can be found in almost every garage. a crankshaft from the Moskvich checkpoint, a hub from Tavria, a cable from an old chainsaw, etc. You can also purchase ready-made hardware.

Getting started:

  • Turn the shaft so that it rotates freely without touching other components and install the hub on it.
  • Cut holes for the bearing from the bottom and top of the crankshaft so that the flywheel “sits” tightly and rotates on it without interference. In this case, the hub must completely encircle the shaft.
  • On the pulley, we drill six through holes with a diameter of no more than 5 cm at an equal distance from each other. We install the pulley over the flywheel on the shaft and fasten with bolts.
  • We mark holes on the flywheel and make them exactly in the same places as earlier in the pulley.
  • Mount the clutch lever from a pipe with a diameter of 10 and a length of 30 mm and install on the pulley.
  • Take a cable or cord and wind it around any cassette.

This design, of course, will not replace the factory disc clutch, however, it requires a minimum investment of time and money, and is suitable for almost all known brands of tilers.

How to properly weight a tiller

How to teach a lightweight Chinese tiller to plow?

The new unit, without plowing even 10 m, got stuck: the wheels slipped, the lugs were buried in the soil. What to do?

With your own hands. How to do it yourself

Weighting the tiller with your own hands. to plow better

How to do something yourself, with your own hands. home master’s site



The tiller has enough power, even though it is gasoline. Large 5/12 wheels give excellent traction. There is only one reason left. the low weight of the tiller (according to the passport. 125 kg).

I started looking for a way to fix this problem.

It turned out that there are several methods.

  • 1. Make a form-weighting agent in the sand and pour molten lead into it (too difficult).
  • 2. Make weighting agents from a mixture of concrete and crushed stone (cheap, but short-lived).
  • 3. Fill any container with sand and hang it on the tiller (unreliable, inconvenient).

But what if you increase the weight of the tiller with metal weights?

I went to the reception point for ferrous metals, where I found several weights of different weight from old industrial scales from the Soviet era, a couple of pancakes from a sports bar weighing 10 kg each. two clutch baskets with flywheels from VAZ 2101.2107 cars and one counterweight for 25 kg. from a tractor.

In a local shop with spare parts for tillers, I bought an additional section of tiller cutters. a faceted tube with a diameter of 32 mm and a length of 15-20 cm. On which four blades of the cutter are installed. Now all the details of future weighting materials have been collected from me.

First of all, I installed a pair of Yu-kilogram weights from the scales on the “back” of the tiller (that is, on the gearbox, where, in theory, the battery should be installed, if it was included in the kit). Giri pre-welded together. I attached them to the gearbox body with two 12 mm bolts. With a second pair of 12 mm bolts, I attached the same weights to the tiller’s steering wheel bracket.

Then, from a corner of 40/40 mm, I welded a frame for a 25 kg weight from a tractor. It looks like a pancake with a diameter of 30 cm and a thickness of 8 cm, in the middle of which there is a slot in the shape of the letter T. He put the weight in the frame and pulled it with a nut so that it would not fall during the work. The structure was installed on top of the weights. Tiller weight increased by 48 kg!


For each wheel I welded a load weighing 27 kg each. Here we needed pancakes from the bar (they were welded to the VAZ clutch basket, which also weighs 10 kg). Outside of this pyramid, I welded a 5-kilogram cast-iron weight from an industrial scale.

Used for welding electrodes on cast iron.

After that, the angle grinder cut off the 32nd hex from the additional section I purchased from the cutters. Its length is 12 cm and weight is 2 kg. The hexagon was quite enough for attaching the weighting agent in the tiller axle to the cotter pin.

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From the inside of the weighting agent in the center, right on the pancake, I welded a hexagon. The second weighting agent for the wheel was made in the same way. Now the tiller weighs 102 kg more.

The last remaining weight of 10 kg was installed as a counterweight to the front bumper-pipe of the tiller. I preliminarily made a frame under this weight (by the way, also from the scales). I used a metal tape for her. cutting it out of the old case of the computer system unit. The tape was inserted into the guides welded from the bottom to the tiller frame from a profiled pipe 50/50 mm. Everything, the final! Now the tiller (along with the additional weights installed on it) began to weigh 237 kg. I decided to try it out in the field.

The labors were not in vain. The unit was going confidently, without feeling the load, and this despite the fact that the plow was deepened by 20 cm. So now I can confidently say. that any tiller of light and middle class simply needs to be loaded with additional weight, be it a container with sand or a homemade weighting agent made of concrete.

After a few years, I changed the gasoline tiller for a new one with a 9 horsepower diesel engine. Despite the fact that he weighed 170 kg, he also had to be heavier. Some homemade weights, however, had to be slightly adapted to take into account the new model, but the principle of the location of the weights remained the same. Is that now the front has installed a load weighing 19 kg, on wheels. 27 kg each. On top of the checkpoint there was a 12 kg battery.

So I would like to advise all “motoblockers” and people who only want to acquire tillers: buy them, do not be afraid, everything can be fixed! And even what at first glance seems incorrigible to you. In our time, you need to put your hands on everything, otherwise modern technology will simply refuse to work.

1 General

The clutch is based on the action of the friction clutch (sliding frictional force). This transmission component is intended for:

  • transmission of torque;
  • damping torsional vibrations;
  • smooth gear shifting;
  • shockless gear connection;
  • connection and short-term disconnection of the internal combustion engine connection with the checkpoint;
  • disconnecting the transmission from the flywheel.

The mechanism makes it possible to temporarily decouple the power transmission of the tiller and the crankshaft of the motor. In addition, the tiller with the help of the clutch without jerking starts the action. Being of great importance for agricultural machines when driving, the clutch allows you to get under way (although it is possible to do this without it, it is very difficult).


The centrifugal clutch has proven itself as a reliable component of the transmission. It has found its application in automatic transmissions. Its main working elements include: a flywheel, a pulley, a hub with a key and a locking groove, a flange, a casing, a bushing, a bearing, a circlip.

The differential, which is directly related to the clutch, also plays an important role. It is tasked with improving the maneuverability of heavy class trailers and ensuring smooth turning. The clutch and differential in “symbiosis” regulate the rotation of the wheel part of the tiller at different speeds. In addition, the power transmission mechanisms are equipped with wheel locking functions. However, in some models, the differential is replaced by a special device that disables one wheel when driving.

On modern models, the tiller usually uses a friction clutch. It is installed between the gearbox and the engine. With a friction clutch, the driven elements are closely connected with the input shaft of the gearbox (or another transmission unit following the clutch), and the leading elements are closely connected with the engine crankshaft. As a rule, the leading and driven elements are produced in the form of round flat discs, sometimes they are made in a conical variation (for example, Tilleri BChS-735 and Kataisi Super-600) and shoe (Gutbrod, Mepol-Terra).

In the case of the production of these working bodies in the form of V-belt drive pulleys, tension rollers are additionally introduced, allowing them to set their position, the degree of tension from the belt control rod, and to disconnect and connect the engine to the transmission.
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1.1 Design and principle of operation

The friction-type clutch consists of:

  • control mechanism;
  • leading part;
  • driven elements.

Centrifugal clutch to tiller

The drive end is formed from the end face of the motor flywheel and the pressure plate, which rotates with the flywheel. However, the disc has the ability to move in the axial direction relative to the flywheel. Between them is the driven disc, its hub is located on the splined driven shaft. Coil springs are placed around the circumference of the pressure plate, installed with preliminary compression.

The role of the springs is to press the pressure disk, into which they abut with one end, and the other against the casing, together with the driven end surface of the flywheel. As a result of these actions, the clutch arrives constantly in the engaged state.

The control mechanism includes release levers, which are connected to the pressure plate by rods and a branch with a pedal. When disengaging the clutch, the operator sends a force from the pedal or lever using a fork or cable to the release levers through a release bearing with a release bearing. With their outer end bolted to the pressure plate, the levers, during the compression of the springs, move the driven discs away from the pressure plate, thereby disengaging the clutch.

The bearing reduces friction by eliminating contact between the stationary leg and rotating arms. Usually there are three levers in the configuration, placed at an angle of 120 degrees to each other. By means of a spring, the parts of the control mechanism are returned to their original position. The branch is separated by the amount of clearance from the levers required to completely disengage the clutch. If this distance is not observed, the clutch slips and the friction linings wear out. When the clearance exceeds the required distance, the clutch will not completely disengage.
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2 Types of clutch, their features

Depending on the design characteristics of motor vehicles, the clutch for the tiller can be of the following types:

  • frictional (discussed above);
  • electromagnetic;
  • hydraulic;
  • centrifugal;
  • belt;
  • one-. two-disk;
  • multi-disc.

By the type of friction, the considered mechanism is classified into wet, operating in an oil bath, and dry, operating in an air environment. In accordance with the mode of inclusion, a permanent closed and non-permanently closed clutch are distinguished.

Centrifugal works due to the following working elements: clutch cable, transmission input shaft, flywheel, clutch lever, release bearing, handle, driven disc, engagement lever, stem fungus, lock washer, shutdown fork. Centrifugal devices have not found widespread use due to their tendency to slip, which is characteristic of loads, and wear of friction surfaces.

With a hydraulic system, through the connecting rod, when the pedal is depressed, the movement is transmitted to the piston, pushing the hydraulic fluid through a special channel. The piston, under the action of the pressure of the working medium, acts on the lever through the connecting rod. With a spring, it returns to its original position.

The multi-disc and single-disc operating principles practically do not differ from each other. The advantages of the first are based on the small size of the friction discs, smooth engagement of the clutch. The disadvantages are worse cooling conditions, problems in obtaining the purity of the inclusion. Two-disc mechanisms are installed in connection with the high power of the power unit, the need to transmit increased torque, to increase the service life.

Homemade Tiller Clutch

The belt-driven clutch, which provides the transmission of torque from the motor to the gearbox, is considered one of the first and is inferior to the above mechanisms, because has a number of disadvantages: a high level of wear, unreliability, low efficiency, impracticality when working with powerful engines.
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Tiller clutch: types, device, principle of operation

As an integral part of the transmission, the tiller clutch performs the function of transferring torque from the motor crankshaft to the gearbox (gearbox shaft). With its help, during gear shifting, the power plant and the gearbox are disconnected. Due to this mechanism, the tiller or the motorboat moves away and stops without turning off the motor.

If the conceived design of factory-made motor vehicles does not provide for a clutch, it can be assembled independently.

2.1 Upgrading the clutch

Since the principle of operation of the device provides for serious friction of the component parts, natural wear cannot be avoided. You can make a clutch on a tiller with your own hands, however, owners of motorized cars who do not have experience in plumbing are not recommended to perform this operation.

Let’s consider an example of creating a mechanism for a heavy tiller. The basis is the flywheel and the input shaft of the Moskvich car box, a steering knuckle with a hub from Tavria, profile B, a driven pulley for two strands and a steel billet as a crankshaft (suitable from GAZ-69). A self-made product begins with turning a steel billet on a lathe in order to fit a hub onto the resulting false shaft. After the pulley lands on the sharpened shaft, you should grind the seat in diameter on the inner ring of the pulley under the support bearing, which should “sit” perfectly.

If the hub fits without gaps, and the pulley scrolls, this is a sign of a correctly completed task. Turn the part over and do the same on the back side. In the next step, use a drill and drill (5 mm) in the pulley to make 6 holes equidistant from each other. Since the bolts will be 10 mm, on the back side it is necessary to drill out the holes of the wheel that gives movement to the drive belt with a 12 mm drill.

Crankshaft Crosser CR-M12

A pulley is installed on the flywheel, a hole should be made with the same drill and both parts should be tightened with a bolt to fix. While the pulley is on the flywheel, mark the flywheel through the holes you made earlier. Remove your pulley and drill all 6 holes.

Use bolts (10 mm) to tighten the structure, the thread without a head should be 60 mm. Grind the crankshaft inside with a blank. To prevent the flywheel from hitting, it is also necessary to grind its surface, and then center it along the landing hole.

It may be necessary to slightly trim the inner plane of the flywheel together with the pulley on a lathe. A layer of metal is removed no more than 1 m. Having previously seated the flywheel on the shipment, check the runout of the planes, it should not exceed 0.1 mm. Ultimately, it remains to mount the basket on the flywheel.
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