How to make a bow saw with your own hands
Mark boards for groove
Important! Remember to repeat the same on the other end of the board.
Mark the boards for the groove. part two
The grooves are now completely ready.
To avoid tearing when sanding the paper while sanding the material, I created a “belt”. I sewed two small strips at the ends, but you can glue them together.
The belt is easy enough
Bow saw. together with it we will master the log and saw any board!
Among all hand tools for cutting wood, the bow saw occupies a special position, with its help with your own hands you will cope with sawing the hardest types of wood, with dimensional and complex workpieces, both in the longitudinal and transverse directions, including along the arcs of an adjustable radius.
Now you need to take a wider chisel. They need to cut in an arc located in the center of the board. You don’t need to go too deep. you should shoot no more than what is already marked by the arc itself. It is not necessary to use a mallet, but weak blows can still push the chisel.
Cutting an arc is one of the stages of fastening a structure
Pruning wood to length
First you need to prepare the lumber. To create a bow saw, I needed the following boards:
Bow miracle saw
Who cares about this bow saw? Is that homemade craftsmen, and specialists who know the price of a hand tool.
And yet I will try to surprise the curious with what has surprised me for many years.
The first and not at all important: the saw even litters beautifully.
These are shavings from a pear, even stuff pillows, even toys.
And these are hornbeams: ordinary at the edges, selected in the center.
The most amazing thing is that all the shavings are different.
The shavings are firmly glued to the quiaz handle of the comb and varnished.
Second. The saw not only quickly, without noise and dust cuts wood of any hardness, but it cuts smoothly, because it is called “planer”.
Here, in fact, is the tool on the original saw table (pidoska) attached to the balcony wall.
The board was sawn off from a log of solid sophora, fixed in a pidosk.
Close-ups give some indication of the smoothness and precision of the cut, which is often just brilliant. Literally!
View of the blade from the side of the teeth. Thickness 1.4 mm.
Third. The accuracy of sharpening and underestimating the tops of the teeth is 0.05 mm. and controlled by a self-made gazer.
Fourth. The saw is three-pronged, i.e. with two types of teeth: 2 triangular teeth undercut the chips from the sides, and the notched tooth cuts and twists.
The shavings in the grooves in front of the cutting teeth are so beautiful due to the lowering of the latter by 0.1-0.2 mm. in relation to undercutting.
On this I will interrupt my praises to the antediluvian instrument.
Archery saw device for wood
- Frame made of profile rolled products. Depending on the size of the saw blade. and they are usually standard: 350 mm, 530 mm or 760 mm, the frame can be made in the form of a lined trapezoid (for longer saw blades) or a lined triangle (for shorter ones).
- A handle with a profile that prevents sudden injury to the fingers of the worker.
- Saw blade.
- Saw Blade Tensioners.
- Fastening the canvas to the frame.
Special requirements are imposed on the frame of a bow saw for wood. it must be rigid and at the same time light, so as not to increase physical activity during sawing. This task is met by a special tubular profile with a very small width. This makes it easy to bend it in the manufacturing process to the required frame configuration, without losing the strength of the part, providing the saw with the necessary mobility.
One of the main differences in the design of modern bow saws for wood is the principle of saw blade tension. For example, the Gardena or Proline brands use an eccentric handle for tension: by changing the angle of the handle with respect to the longitudinal axis of the saw, this way you can adjust the tension.
Manufacturers of saws from Bahco Stanley took a different path: there a special screw mechanism for tensioning the saw blade is mounted in the handle. The choice is determined by the ease of use, however, the presence of a screw mechanism provides increased tension in the tension, and does not depend on accidental movements of the user, when the position of the handle during sawing can randomly change. Therefore, the pivot tensioner is recommended if you have some experience with a bow saw.
Removable cotter pins or thumbscrews are used to fasten the saw blade to the opposite part of the “bowstring” (frame), the latter are more reliable, since the cotter pin, usually made of mild steel, wears out over time and can spontaneously come out of the mounting hole.
Bow saw blade
The versatility of this tool also determines the changes in the design of the saw blade, in particular, its teeth. Most often used:
- Saw blades with even tooth pitch. They are designed for smooth cutting of wood with a relatively short length.
- Blades with the so-called “American” tooth, when a double or “Kremlin” tooth is encountered through 3.4 ordinary teeth. This blade configuration allows for a longer and more complex cut. The frequency of alternation determines the accuracy of the result: the closer the double teeth are to each other, the less clean the line will be cut.
- Spatial teeth with wide setting. A blade with such teeth is useful with the maximum dimensions of the section of the wood to be cut. The cutting force and waste are increased, but the cutting performance is maximized.
Depending on the task at hand, the material of the saw blade also changes. For tools of relatively small dimensions (350 mm, partly 530 mm), blades with a uniform pitch are used, which are made of structural chromium-nickel steel of the 45X, 40XN or 45G type. The blades undergo HFC hardening, as a result of which their surface hardness reaches 45 48 HRC. However, such blades are very sensitive to changes in the cutting axis, which is easily changed due to the flexibility of the blade, and break at ultimate bends.
For blades with double teeth, high-carbon steel 7HF or even high-speed steel is used. The durability of such canvases (if they are not made in China) is very high, since with an increase in the percentage of carbon in steel, its elastic properties increase. In addition, the blades do not need to be cooled, since vanadium and tungsten, which are part of such steels, are highly heat resistant.
For wide tooth teeth, abrasive wear due to friction between wood and metal is considered a decisive factor in durability. Therefore, the Finnish company Fiskars applies a Teflon coating to its tools, which reduces the coefficient of friction, thereby increasing the durability of the saw blade. Other manufacturers (for example, Bahco) produce bimetallic blades: the base is made of structural steel, and the cutting part is made of tool.
about everything in a bit or so
What is a bow saw for??
It is convenient to make short, mainly transverse cuts with a jigsaw, and long, longitudinal cuts with a hacksaw on wood. And only with the help of a bow saw can a variety of dividing cuts be made, both with dry and wet wood. In addition, for a bow saw for wood, it does not matter how the wood is cut. along or across the fibers. If we add to this the possibility of working with one hand (the first “rays” were exclusively two-handed), it turns out that the tool in question can be used to cut a tree:
- in the transverse;
- in curly;
- in the angular direction.
The only insurmountable obstacle for bow saws is the transverse dimensions of the workpieces. for thick logs, it is still better to use a power tool. However, you have to work with thick logs much less often
Three circumstances give the versatility of bow saws for wood:
- Adjustable saw blade tension (in some ways, this process is similar to pulling the bowstring of a bow, hence the name of the tool). Testing shows that in bow saws, tensile forces of up to 100 120 kg can be created without breaking the saw blade.
- Specially shaped teeth for both roughing and finishing cuts.
- Compact size of the saw, which ensures its use even in confined spaces.
Modern manufacturers of bow saws and accessories for them. the brands Bahco, Stanley, Intertool, Fiskars and others. complete their products with different types and designs of saw blades, which increases the ease of use of the tool.
How to make a bow saw with your own hands
Bow saws have long held an honorable place among carpentry tools. And although their construction and design have changed significantly over the years, the basic principle of operation of these saws remains the same. What is the advantage of this tool and what makes it stand out from the rest?
Saturday, 15 March 2014.
Saws are different. Or how I came to the bow saw.
Homemade bow saw. According to the classical scheme. Collapsible.
I almost always take a saw with me into the forest. For pvd / autumn, a small saw is enough.
Pros: compactness.weight.efficiency price. you can cut one
Cons:. low reliability. dulls rather quickly. cutting thick trees is quite difficult
Walked for a long time with Tajima ALOR-A240. Aluminist Black 240, Folding Saw, 9.4in 9 TPI (Japan).
I love this saw. But it has a minus. the price. The saw costs about 2000r. replaceable blades rarely come across to it and cost about 800r. One blade is enough for 1-2 seasons of intensive use. I’m disappointed, it’s Japan. The firm specializes in professional hand tools.
Of the plus, we can note:. compactness. relatively not sick weight (about 340g). high efficiency (when the canvas is fresh)
We went on a water trip to Karelia, we had a two-handed saw =) Naturally, the water workers do not care about the weight, but still it’s too much. As a result, only once they took out a two-handed, the rest of the time he was harvesting firewood with a Tajima hacksaw. The saw did an excellent job with trees 20-25cm in diameter.
But when it gets colder and you go with an overnight stay, you want to sit by the fire longer. Or, in general, the campaign that is necessary here is something more serious. Options? gasoline is clearly not our tool =) remains a two-handed saw? Only if it’s a ski trip. Those. you need a saw that is lightweight, compact, with high performance. To harvest large quantities of firewood.
In the old days, it was the main tool of a carpenter. High productivity, cutting precision, low weight, single work.
Bow saw according to the classical scheme.
Now these are not on sale. I was surprised when the sellers in “Lirua” threw up their hands when asked if they had such a saw. They just don’t know. And they have a saw. But from an aluminum tube You can carry such a saw on a backpack, but I don’t like it. And her weight is clearly more than 400g. The price is about 1000r.
What to do? Do it yourself. Go.
I bought a canvas bahco 607mm (Sweden). The company produces extremely high quality tools.
In “Lirua” I bought a pvc pipe for heating d25, and an aluminum pipe, plus a couple of carabiners. I made a frame for a saw according to the classic scheme with a crank.
All together weighs 340g. I have so much a folding hacksaw tajima weighs. I like. Long blade will increase productivity and the diameter of the logs that can be cut.
Pricing: Canvas bacho 630mm-450r tube from lirua. 250r
Manufacturing is very simple. You don’t even need a drill. A burner and a piece of old metal sheet are enough. The main thing is to carefully mark the future holes. By heating the cross tube, we form holes on the pvc tubes. The horizontal bar should be slightly shorter than the saw blade itself. We heat the old blade for metal and form holes in the pvc tubes for the saw blade. Everything fit the tuner into the tuner. We collect the saw, insert the carabiners (fix the canvas). We dress the laces with any stick, make a twist with a sliver. It is not necessary to overtighten, it is enough to drink the rigidity of the frame and the normal tension of the canvas.
My tubes bend a little, so I want to try the same thing but with all aluminum tubes, I wonder how much stronger and heavier it will be.
How to wear a saw? We need to sew a cover. The canvas can be protected with thin plastic, for example, from a stationery folder, or just take the fabric for the cover for a stronger one.
There is also an option to carry the saw blade in a bowler hat. Twisting it up. I got this idea in the video of Grigory Sokolov, a link to YouTube for which thanks to him. I will try.
UPD I will definitely write, after the current I will try the saw.
UPD_2 The saw has passed the first test. Saws. Revealed two shoals: 1. Coupling carabiners must be replaced with any not clutched. The thread is capricious and wedges.
It is necessary to replace the plastic tubes with aluminum or wood. Insufficient saw blade tension. The tubes are bent. The photo shows.
The saw cuts, but it is noticeable that the blade walks. You can saw one, but the output is small. If you cut it together, then it’s a song. To fill up a pine tree and cut it on logs for a “node” takes 3-5 minutes. Swedish canvas. offset!
I found a YouTube vidos Probably the most correct, from my point of view, saw. The cross member is rectangular, the grooves on the cross member are rectangular i.e. torsional rigidity. the canvas is retracted into the handles.
Homemade Frame Saw (Bow Saw). Scrapwood Challenge Ep28
I have already told you how to make a bow saw in the forest with only one blade. You can read about this at the link.
Today I will show you how to make a complete bow saw at home. Such a saw will perfectly fit into the bushcraft entourage, and it’s just very convenient to use it.
To begin with, we need two identical planks, each about 40 cm long. I just found a suitable one at home, in a section of 20x40mm. These will be the handles of our saw.
At the ends, we drill through holes with the first drill we come across.
At the end we make a cut of such a length that the hole in the saw blade coincides with the hole in the plank.
For now, let’s put the future handles aside and deal with the horizontal component of our saw.
Because the canvas is 530 mm long, I used a 500 mm plank on the skid and it had to be shortened a little, so 480 would be just right. Plank section 20×30.
Having retreated 10 mm from the end, we make a cut along the perimeter a couple of millimeters deep. Then we chop off with a chisel or knife so that we get a peg.
In the middle of the bar that will go to the handle, mark the selection into which the peg will enter, simply by attaching it and circling it with a pencil. Choosing an extra tree with a chisel.
Checking how they fit together. Consider. The pin should not fit tightly into the groove.
Then we remove the edges with a rasp and form a handle that fits our hand.
Smooth out any irregularities from the rasp with a file. Those who wish can sand the skins with different numbers. I have not been honored yet.
If there is a round rasp, then you can make a sample for the rope pulling our bow.
I used the first two nails that came across as a web retainer.
The assembly order is obvious. We insert the canvas into the handles and fix it with carnations. Next, insert the crosspiece into the grooves. On the recesses in the upper part of the handles, we put a loop from a cord or paracord. Insert a stick into the loop and twist. As a result, the pins on the crossbar and the sample play the role of a hinge, and the canvas is stretched until it rings.
In the complete set, the weight of the bow saw was 450 grams. By the way, the baho aluminum onion weighs 750 grams.
Now let’s check how she saws. The result is excellent, not worse than its aluminum counterpart. Actually, it all depends on the canvas.
As a summary, I will say that I am very pleased with the saw. Firstly, the thing is made by hand. Secondly, bushcraft entourage, which I really like. Third, the work efficiency is not affected.
Perhaps now I will sand it better and additionally saturate it with linseed oil, or maybe I will cut out a simple ornament.
Until then, that’s all. Thanks for attention!
UPD 02/08/15 We give the onion water resistance using a homemade wax impregnation, the recipe for which can be found here
- Board 256 mm long. The length of the blade used is about 255 mm, so this is exactly the size of the board you need. It will become a stiffener above the blade.
- Four boards 216 mm long. They fit well under my arm. They will be needed to install the blade.
- One board with a length of 113.4 mm, which I needed to make thin. The thickness should be somewhere around 12.7 mm.
Mark the place for the future “slot” for the blade
- Place a board with a length of 256 mm between the boards with a blade. at the second mark from the larger side.
- Make a mark in the middle of this long board where it connects to the other boards. Connect them with one line.
- Take a 7.5 mm round object (such as a roll of duct tape) and draw an arc on both sides.
- Pull the ends of the arc down. Tie both of them in this way.
- Draw a rectangle at the connection point between the arcs. New space width. 6.3 mm.
Preparing the thorns
- Saw at the groove marks at multiple angles. The output will be an arc.
- Use a chisel to make the arc smoother.
- Repeat this for each side of the board.
The purpose of the arc? allow the cleat to turn for more maneuverability.
The spikes need to be made to insert it into the grooves.
Saw handle? grinding
For a more pleasant use and a firm grip on the handle, I used a range of tools: a semi-circular wood chisel, a miter plane, a curved plow, and 280 grit sandpaper.
For the inside, I used a semicircular wood chisel.
Now, on the part of the handle, everything is more or less ready
Typical design of bow saws
The saw is called “bow” not because it can be fired from, and also not because it is similar to the weapon of Robin Hood, its design is based on the same principle of elasticity as in the ancient bow.
- The basis of the entire product is a machine made of sturdy, carefully finished and often lacquered stands. There are three of them. two lateral and one horizontal. Racks are made of hardwood (oak, hornbeam or ash). In the lower part of the uprights, there are symmetrical through holes for attaching handles. The horizontal rack is called the mullion,
- The working handles of the bow-type saws are not even an object of carpentry, but of carpentry, the convenience and productivity of work depends on their quality. The general shape of the handles is round, cuts and holes for fastening the working blade are made in the end part.
- Thin strips of tool steel with a slight “serration” are most often used as blades. The wider the blade-blade, the less maneuverability of the saw will be, and the tension force in the clamps will be weaker.
- Each bow-type saw is supplied with a bowstring, which further brings it closer to the throwing weapons of ancient times. But the purpose of this bowstring is purely peaceful. it serves for a strong and reliable tension of the working blade between the handles. It is customary to make a bowstring from natural materials (linen rope or hemp twine). Synthetic cables as a bowstring have not yet justified themselves. their elasticity and durability are insufficient for cutting solid wood,
- Along the axis of central symmetry, between the center-stand and the bowstring, there is an auxiliary bar. an arrow. When the arrow bar rotates, the hemp or linen bowstring is pulled, the hacksaw blade solidifies firmly between the handles. you can start sawing woodwork.
Thanks to the threaded handles and the solidity of the entire structure, bow-type saws are effective for short and long cuts, for cutting wood along and across the grain, they can “overcome” knots and are capable of sawing along radii and curved patterns.
Saw handle and support
The first thing to do is draw the outline of the saw handle on a piece of wood. I used white maple as the material, but you can use another one as well. I cut a straight line with a Japanese saw, and bends and so on with several tools: a chisel, a file and a scraper.
I sanded another piece of wood and made it rectangular. In height, it coincided with the height of the handle.
The first and most important thing is the handle and support
Now that I have a bow saw, I can use it to cut metal or wood. Such a tool helped me a lot. At the same time, being made by myself, it perfectly suited my requests.
About bow saw
A bow saw is a type of hand saw used to cut wood along curved lines.
Consists of a saw blade and a bow (a structure that consists of a spacer, two handles, a bowstring and a twist)
Today we will look at how to make a bow saw with our own hands.
- Wooden stick (fits from under furniture)
- Saw blade
- Bolts and nuts
Before starting work, read the drawing:
The first step is to cut your stick in half on a pendulum saw. Next, from the end of the sawn-off piece, measure 1.5-2 centimeters and process it with a rasp under the string for the screed.
We also do with the second segment. To do this, clamp two segments in a vice at once to save time.
Work a groove in the side edge of the board for the piece of the stick with which you worked.
Repeat from the opposite side of the board. Here’s what you should end up with:
Next, cut the lengths to fit the blade. To do this, clamp the segments that will serve as the handles of the saw, in a vice, measure the center of one and the second segment with a ruler, and then connect these points with a straight line.
Use a regular saw to cut carefully along this center line. Insert the blade into the cuts and check how it sits, if anything, correct it.
After that, it is necessary to make holes in the handles for the bolts for fastening the canvas. Pass the canvas, mark the places for the holes, and then remove the canvas.
Next, with a drill or on a drilling machine, make holes on the first and second handles.
We continue to deal with handles. Mark on them how it will be more convenient for you to hold the saw, and then use a rasp to process the grooves under the fingers in these places.
The indentations from the rasp are uneven, rough, so take a rounded metal file and process the indentations with it.
In the back of the handle, it is also necessary to make recesses under the palms with a rasp, which then also process with a file.
As a result, you should have two handles like this:
Having measured 1-1.5 centimeters from the groove for the fingers on the handles, start making grooves for the board.
Place it evenly between the handles and mark its width with lines on the handles themselves.
Cut a recess a few millimeters with a rasp or file, then round it so that the board and handles fit perfectly into each other’s grooves.
Optionally, you can decorate the strip and handles. You can do it in your style, or like me:
Lay out the structure on the table, put on the canvas and clamp it with bolts and nuts.
Next, take a string, wrap it around the groove at the end of one handle and tie it, then twist the ends of the string, and insert a small piece of wood into the central loop and continue twisting the string, wind the groove at the end of the second handle and tie it.
Then we go to test a homemade bow saw.
Do-it-yourself bow saw at home is ready.
I recommend the following video, where the author makes a bow saw with his own hands:
Today we have made a camping bow saw with our own hands. For this we needed: a wooden stick, a board, a string, a saw blade, bolts and nuts and tools.
With the first dolly in the manufacturing process, we made wooden handles for a saw out of an old stick, sawing it in half.
Then, with a rasp, we made grooves for the twine, grooves for the handles on the board, which serves as a bar for us. After finger recess on the grip for a more comfortable grip.
We marked the central line and sawed the handles along it, so we made the cuts for the canvas. With a drill or on a drilling machine, holes were made in the handles for the bolts on which the canvas will hold.
Folding Bucksaw and Canvas Case. Kelly Kettle. Tea in the Woods.
Finally, more convenient grooves were made on the handles for the plank from the board and, if desired, the saw was decoratively processed.
We pulled the string, tightened the bolts and went to test the homemade bow saw.
Write in the Комментарии и мнения владельцев if you have ever used a bow saw?