How to Make a Drill Bit. Types of polishing nozzles

make, drill, polishing, nozzles

How to make a polishing tip

Modern power tools are convenient to use, but few people know all of their functions.

For example, you can use a suitable sanding attachment on the drill, thanks to which it will not be difficult to cope with tedious work, without spending a lot of effort to do it.

Since there are all kinds of nozzles for the drill, we propose to get acquainted with them more closely.

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Suddenly make these three nozzles (burs, bits) for a mini drill (boron, Dremel):

The multi-blade sanding brush (“daisy”) on the left is needed for even and silky, (matt, “coarse”) sanding of metal. a very useful thing in the household.You can use it to upgrade any metal surface to new.

As a side note, the drill bit I have is like this:

How a drill bit is made morse taper shank twist drill

it’s a 24 volt soviet motor, long and narrow enough so you don’t have to put it in a tube/handle, plus a Chinese collet chuck. Plus a homemade adjustable power supply on the KRLEN12A.

So, to begin with we make the simplest, but, by the way, a childhood dream. an electric file (or rotary file):

We forged a roller out of lighter (by its rotation we knock out sparks from silicon) and put it on some rod. It is desirable that the rod has a thread on the end, so that the roller is stuck tightly. Done.

video of this action and all the rest, which will be described by means of text and photos further.

I want to impudently note here, that all these three tools (or rather how to make them by my own hands) I invented completely by myself and made 10 years ago. But now I saw on YouTube videos the last 2 years, which people are doing the same (except “daisy”) and they have there enthusiastic Комментарии и мнения владельцев, millions of views, blackjack and whores So I am now angry-pity gets me: my videos with brilliant ideas and really useful tips and crafts Che Che almost no one looks, and someone puts and dislikes Subscribe! 1 for karma: LabaKraba (AmolonieX. here in English or no words at all).

To cut the sanding discs from a sheet of sandpaper we make a puncher (hole punch) and a circular knife:

Hole punch is two boards with a gap of two millimeters between them and a hole for the drill at 1.8 mm (need 2.0 mm, but the hole will turn out a little bit in the process). The back end of the drill bit is sharpened to have a sharp edge.

On the end of the drill, which will be pressed, you need to put a cap under the finger, through the paper, to tighten.

A circular knife is just an arbitrary iron plate with bent and sharpened ends. As a result, we have:

Very even and without interfering bent edges (which will be if you pierce with an awl) central holes are obtained. Circular knife to cut circles quickly and fairly evenly.

Well, and the hit of the program. making sandpaper petal brushes.

We take the hub from the spool of thread. In the video, the outside diameter of this tube was 12.6 mm, but it turns out that they vary in diameter, and here in this picture is another, with a diameter of exactly 12.9 mm, t. е. exactly what we need. We wind two strips of paper on it crosswise with glue between them and get a paper tube. the basis for the “daisy”. which we cut into sleeves (top-right in the photo).

By sticking on these bushings with a strong joiner’s glue the sandpaper blades 13×20 mm. And not orthogonal, as in the sold in the store, but as if overlapping. We have:

make, drill, polishing, nozzles

Signed on a few petals the grit. Done. The petals sometimes fly off (see: “How do I do this? on the rightmost one in the picture above), so it’s better to use a fabric sandpaper. Plus, wet the petals with soapy water before use, otherwise they will get salted (clogged with shavings) and spoil the evenness-silky texture of the ground metal in these places.

Here someone can notice that similar brushes (only with short blades) sell on Aliexpress. But I remind you that I figured out how to make them (to glue the blades tangentially to the sleeve, not orthogonally) and made them 10 years ago, when there was no Aliexpress.

The video at the end shows the texture you get on the aluminum plate from using these 3 brushes of grit 40, 80, 500. The best 500. just such a pleasant to the touch, silky matte texture Sanding is necessary strictly in one direction!

What tools are available

Unlike angle grinder bits, any drill bit has an axis that locks into the chuck.


Generally, sanding accessories for your drill are made of plastic. They are primarily designed for use in an angle grinder, but thanks to the adapter they can be mounted in the tool chuck.

This attachment is rigid, so it is not applicable in all cases. For example, even with a small displacement of the nozzle, its edge is able to gnaw into the ground surface, leaving deep notches.

For this reason, it is more convenient to use a rigid plastic nozzle with the drill stationary, as in the following illustration.

The rubber nozzle is more convenient when working with a drill. due to its flexibility, it prevents accidental damage to the treated surface when tilting the drill or excessive pressure on it.

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Another type of similar sanding tool is made with a movable pin attachment, but due to the high cost of the latter, it is not in great demand.


Structurally, cup nozzles practically do not differ from each other, but the brush itself may consist of metal (steel, brass) wire or polymer abrasive pile.

Each brush has a certain hardness and is used strictly according to the purpose, which is set by the manufacturer. you can grind metal (removing traces of corrosion), wood and other materials.

Work with such a tool is fraught with some difficulties. choosing the wrong angle can spoil the soft material to be processed, and the drill itself constantly tends to move aside when pressing the whole area of the device.


These nozzles resemble cup nozzles, but the direction of the bristles is different. to the sides. Most often they are used when you have to process material in hard-to-reach places.


This device resembles a drum in appearance, and due to this similarity got the same name. Such a drum nozzle is a cylinder, the outer wall of which is fixed sandpaper.

This attachment is fixed under tension with a special bolt or can be fixed by inflating it with compressed air. With an unclamped belt, the tension is created by a rotating screw that tensions the sandpaper.

With the help of drum nozzles it is not difficult to grind parts made of wood and metal. The grinding nozzle with small particles of abrasive material can be used when finishing edges of glass. Very convenient to sand round and oval holes.

Fan type

This nozzle is made in the form of a disk with attached fragments of abrasive material. Such a feature of the tool has significantly expanded the range of sizes of processed parts, grinding the cavities of small and large holes. Thanks to the flexibility of the blades, workpieces of all shapes can be ground.

End cap

Such nozzles have different shapes, and the working part can be made of different material. Designed for starting or finishing holes and the inside of shaped workpieces. Similar devices, only in miniature size, are used by jewelers and dentists.


When polishing workpieces, round workpieces made of foam rubber, felt or leather can be used, fastened on an axle. These tools wear out quickly and can be used to polish metal or varnished/painted surfaces to a high luster. The attachment is matched directly to the material to be polished.

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Making nozzles with their own hands from foam rubber

Often home craftsmen make soft polishing nozzles for the drill by themselves.

It’s best to take a commercial polishing nozzle as a base, perhaps even with a worn or torn surface, a base for sanding sandpaper, etc. д.

As already mentioned, purchased nozzles have more or less good balance and minimal runout.

For a homemade polishing nozzle, it is best to use a sticker of foam.

The fact is that it is a fairly light material, and even if you mount it on a standard nozzle and cut not very straight, it will not upset the balance when rotating.

It is convenient to attach foam rubber to disk nozzles by cutting a narrow strip and fastening it to the cylindrical surface of the nozzle, to the cup. by fastening to the end a circle cut out of foam rubber, the appropriate size.

In addition, the manufacture of polishing nozzles of foam rubber with their own hands is justified most of all, because in the work they need a lot, but they do not last long. In other cases, it is better to buy a nozzle.

Fasten the foam rubber with glue only. It is better to take PVA glue or other non-water-resistant glue. it is quite suitable for foam rubber, and then easily removed from the surface, allowing you to glue the next sheet when the previous one wears out.

It is best to use high-density foam. Kitchen sponge foam is not suitable. it has an extremely low density, and as a result will tear, chunky and quickly fail.

From what you can find in the household, foam rubber for sofas is good. of course, not very old. If you have the opportunity to buy such foam in a single sheet of thickness from 30mm. do it. The thickness of polyurethane foam for a homemade attachment should be at least 25 mm.

Varieties of devices for additional equipment for your drill

The most common is such a device for a drill, such as a stop, which allows you to simply and quickly drill holes to the desired depth. The design of the simplest stop device includes an auxiliary handle and the stop itself, the surface of which is marked with a metric scale.

A more complex design and, accordingly, greater functionality is provided by the parallel stop, which can control not only the depth of the hole being drilled, but also the position of its axis relative to the surface of the machined product or construction. This type of attachment is also available for tools used in construction and repair, and for wood drills.

The drilling of blind holes for furniture hinges with a forstner drill bit is made much easier when using a drill stand

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Parallel stops, designed for use in conjunction with tools for construction and repair work, are installed on heavy-duty drills, by means of which drilling holes in concrete and brick building structures is performed. This type of attachment consists of a stop with a scale and an auxiliary handle for the drill. Some models of parallel stops have a built-in suction for removing processing waste, which is connected to a vacuum cleaner.

Popular among home craftsmen are devices for the drill, with which it can be used to perform carpentry work. Drill, equipped with such an attachment, is, in fact, a small milling unit. Its design includes a vertical stand with rails, on which moves a special basket with a power tool fixed in it. Of course, such a vertical milling machine is not able to provide the same accuracy and productivity of the machining performed, as specialized equipment, but for performing simple works in the home workshop it is suitable.

Slots, slots or profiles can be cut with this milling head

Rather large category among the elements of additional equipment of hand-held electric tools are nozzles and attachments for drills, which can be used to perform drilling at an angle. Such a drill bit works in places where the use of an ordinary drill bit is not possible. The working head, depending on the model of this equipment can be located at different angles (up to 90°) in relation to the rotation axis of the main drill chuck. The most popular and popular are devices for drilling at an angle of 90 degrees.

Drilling stand with a variable angle allows you to easily drill oblique holes

On today’s market there are widely available devices for drilling holes, which allow not only to limit the depth of the created holes and control the verticality of their axis, but also to use the drill as a small cutter. Such devices are especially popular among do-it-yourself furniture makers.

With the use of various working attachments on the drill for woodworking, you can perform many technological operations (in particular, side drilling holes in products round or more complex configuration, requiring the use of special inserts). Some models of such devices are equipped with special suction devices connected to a vacuum cleaner, which help to remove dust and small chips from the machining area. It should be taken into account that even such functional devices don’t allow making a hand-held milling machine from a drill, which has the same operational possibilities, but provides higher precision and quality of performed processing.

No one will dispute the fact that it is much more convenient to use a drilling machine for the formation of holes than a drill (and the accuracy of processing with stationary equipment is higher). Meanwhile, it is also possible to make the simplest drilling machine from a hand-held power tool, for which the drill guide attachment is used. Most modern models of such a fixture are equipped with a vise to hold the part during machining, as well as a frame on which such a vise can move freely. The power tool itself is placed in a special holder for the drill (basket), which is a universal clamping device and can be used for almost any model of drilling tool. Such a device, the stand of which is marked with an accurate metric scale, is a very useful acquisition for any home craftsman, as it allows you to make holes with less labor and higher accuracy.

A drill stand paired with a vise adds the ability to clamp workpieces and even grind them

Extremely popular are attachments to the drill, allowing it to be used as a wood lathe. Such attachment is fixed on the work table, and the drill itself acts as its drive mechanism. To install a drill in the design of such a attachment, a special stand and fixing mechanism are used.

Such attachments are available in different designs, with a different set of cutting tools and attachments, make it easy to realize the dream of many home craftsmen to have their own lathe. Of course, a lathe powered by an ordinary electric drill can not be compared with specialized equipment in terms of lifetime, accuracy and performance of the machining. If you use such an attachment in intensive mode, the power drill will not withstand considerable and prolonged load and will eventually fail. That is why, in order not to remain without a drill, you should use such an attachment to perform simple and not too long turning work in wood.

Cutting accessories

Special attachments on the drill for cutting thin sheet metal, unlike the widespread angle grinder, make a more accurate cut and practically do not deform the coating of the sheet. This is especially important when cutting profile sheeting for a fence or metal roofing tiles. In addition, the device allows you to turn the line for trimmer cutting at large angles and at a minimum radius, which is simply indispensable when making a roof of complex shape.

The device is installed on the chuck of a drill and is driven by the working shaft. The chuck rotation speed for confident work with such a device should be from 2800 rpm, power. from 400 watts.

Special attachments for metal cutting have the following advantages:

  • Even cutting line for trimmer, without burrs and jagged edges;
  • Any configuration of the cut piece of sheet metal;
  • does not damage the anti-corrosion coating of the sheet;
  • ease of operation.

Cutting devices cope with ferrous metal with a thickness of up to 1.5 mm, non-ferrous metals and plastics. up to 2 mm.

Homemade feathering nozzles for power tools

The nozzle on the drill with their own hands, which can also be used in conjunction with an electric screwdriver or grinder, is easy to make. The main element of such a device is a drum, which must be characterized by a sufficiently high rigidity. To make with your own hands a nozzle for plucking poultry, you can use the following algorithm.

  • The drum bottom is screwed or welded to a piece of thick-walled light-metal pipe and a hole is drilled in its center.
  • A pin is inserted into the hole in the drum bottom and secured with two nuts. When selecting the diameter of such a hairpin, take into account that it must be securely fixed in the chuck of the power tool used to drive the feathering head.
  • Several rows of holes are drilled on the side surface of the drum around its circumference. They should be made at equal distances from each other.
  • Rubber bead pins are inserted into the holes.
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If you have a suitable motor lying around, it can be used to make a more powerful plucking device

Such plucking attachment, despite its simple design, can be used to handle chickens, quail, ducks, geese and even turkeys. Such attachment for plucking will be useful for hunters, who are also often faced with the need to handle a large number of poultry carcasses.

The simplest nozzle for plucking poultry can be made by hand from a piece of polyethylene pipe 100-120 mm in diameter. Two bottoms for such a nozzle can be made not from metal, but from hard plastic or plywood. In the center of both bottoms drill holes through which a stud will be passed, designed not only to install the nozzle on the power tool, but also to tie the entire structure. As in the previous model of a home-made nozzle, on the surface of the tube of this device holes are drilled in which rubber beaten fingers are set.

The most affordable version of a homemade nozzle

Tools and materials required

The drive for almost all the tools we use will be a drill, for which we make a fixture to perform milling operations. We will need the following tool positions:

  • Circular drill (“ballerina”);
  • twist drill bit;
  • a feather drill (“jig”);
  • core drill bit (“crown”);
  • hacksaw for metal;
  • sandpaper;
  • milling heads;
  • ruler and a marker;
  • clamps.

As a billet for making parts of the device we use a piece of board made of hard wood (oak, beech, birch, etc.).) 25-30 mm thick. Also, to fasten the elements of the model we need screws (screws), bolts and nuts of appropriate diameter and length.

Self-made grinding nozzle on the drill

This is a very simple tool for grinding. This type of tool is very difficult to find if you try to buy it. This is a replacement for drum sanders, but it is easier to replace sandpaper, and leave a good surface in the corners and edges of any project.

This assembly is simple and ideal for beginners, because I used cheap and easily available materials and simple methods, but it can be a very useful tool for everyone.

First of all, you need some wood. I used several pieces of 18mm thick plywood that were lying around. But I believe that the type of wood is not decisive, nor is its thickness.

Then you will need a steel rod or something to allow you to hammer this sanding tool into your drill. I used a 3/8″ half stud, you can use a stiffer rod or a long bolt or anything else that works for this purpose.

make, drill, polishing, nozzles

Then cut the round shaped pieces of plywood with a circular saw. To make this sanding tool, I used 5 pieces of 1-inch diameter round shaped plywood.

When you are done, start gluing all the pieces of plywood together using glue. Spread a little on both sides and then join the pieces in a nailer until you reach the desired height. Then let the glue dry. Be careful not to apply too much force when clamping, or you will squeeze out too much glue, getting a weaker grip.

After the glue dried, I just threw it in the drill press and sanded it off with 60 grit sandpaper and a sanding block.

Now we need to attach our sandpaper to this drum. Anyway, I think it’s best to take one more precaution to prevent the sandpaper from sliding as the drums rotate. Using a square, trace the trimmer line from top to bottom of the reels, trying to make it as vertical as possible. Clamp the drums in a vise, then use a hacksaw to make a narrow cut along this line. I used a table saw machine to make a narrow cut along this line.

Now the next step is to cut a strip of sandpaper wide enough to cover the drum and long enough to completely wrap around it and overlap a few millimeters.

At this point we are almost done. Attach the nuts and bearings to one side of the drum. The nuts are tightened with wrenches.

Now the grinding attachment on an electric screwdriver or drill is ready for use. I just threw it in the drill and started it up.

This sanding tool is used for both wood and metal.

Take a piece of wood and start the drill. Just wipe the sanding tool on the surface of the wood, and you should see the results. Keep changing the sandpaper after it wears off.

I hope you found this tutorial helpful. If you have any questions, please leave a comment.