How to make a manual circular saw into a stationary one
How to make a machine with your own hands from a circular saw?
For sawing various lumber at home, a handheld circular saw is an excellent tool. With this power tool you can cut lumber of different sections at any angle. Such a tool is excellent for cutting sheets of plywood, organilite or particle board.
Circular saw machine schematic diagram.
However, the technical capabilities of such a tool can be significantly expanded, which is often necessary when performing repair work, if you make a stationary machine from a circular saw with your own hands.
To perform such a transformation is not difficult, and to make a machine from a circular saw can anyone who needs it. To do this, you simply need to fix it on a prepared surface in a certain position. In the simplest version as a place of installation, you can use a sturdy building scaffolding. For long-term use of the machine from a circular saw, it is better to make a solid, welded metal base.
Wooden machine from a circular saw
To make such a wooden base, you will need:
Scheme of a homemade cutting device.
From plywood cut a sheet of approximately 100×60 cm (can be and other). Around the edges of the plywood sheet (along its perimeter), using glue and self-tapping screws, the bars are attached. Then the sheet metal plate is supported on the inside with the body, the fixing points for the cutting disc and the grooves for the cutting disc are marked. After that with an electric jigsaw (you can milling machine) saw a groove for the passage of the disk, and drill holes for mounting the body. The legs are bolted to the side planks. The height of the circular saw machine is chosen from 80 to 90 cm. The tool body is attached to the place prepared beforehand on the inside of the sheet. The bolts for fixing it must be countersunk (not protruding on the surface). The cover must be varnished or painted.
A guide bar is set parallel to the cutting disc so that the material can be sawn exactly to size. The block can be fixed to the table surface with clamps. The wooden circular saw machine is ready for work.
Design and materials for the stationary saw
Homemade circular saw with your own hands can be made by fixing the hand tool on a stable base. In the simplest version, the device is installed on a wooden trestle or on a table assembled from plywood and planks. The tool is fastened underneath the plywood plate, and a cut is made for the toothed disk in the tabletop.
The parameters of the machine design depend on the size of the material to be processed. In accordance with it, the power of the hand tool is selected (800-1200 W or more). To perform a clean cut, it is better to install a model with a speed of 3000-4000 revolutions.
Wood materials, fasteners and tools will be needed to make the machine:
Tools for making a homemade circular saw.
20 mm thick plywood; a board for ribs and legs (50×100 mm); sandpaper, joinery glue and varnish; screws, self-tapping screws, wire clamps; tape measure, pencil, ruler; jigsaw, drill, electric screwdriver.
The table height is selected according to the height of the master and is usually about 1 m, the length of the table top depends on the size of the materials to be processed.
The working surface is sawn with the jigsaw from plywood according to the adopted dimensions. The workpiece is machined with sandpaper or a grinder. Edges of the table top are milled.
Markings are made on the underside of the plate for the hand saw fixture. A sector for the hole for the disk is marked.
If the workpieces are planned to be sawn at different angles, the kerf should have a trapezoidal contour with the extension downwards. The groove is cut with a manual circular saw and ø10 mm holes are pre-drilled at the ends of the planned sector. Also you need to make holes in the base of the tool and table top for fastening on the bolts.
Then the frame for the horizontal surface of the table is marked out. The perimeter ribs must be 5-10 cm from the edge of the worktop. Sawed to size boards are attached by the end face to the marking on the bottom surface of the sheet, their contours are outlined with a pencil.
In the middle of the marked out contour of the frame, the central line for the trimmer is drawn.
On it the places for self-tapping screws for fixing the ribs are marked. Under the fasteners through holes are drilled with a chamfer on top for the embedding of the flats. The screws should be screwed in through 10-20 cm, from the corners of the frame. at a distance of 5 cm.
Boards are set on the joinery glue along the marked perimeter and clamped with clamps.
After the glue dries, without removing the clamping devices, screw in screws with countersunk head screws. In the corners of the frame, 2 self-tapping screws are screwed into the end face. Then the stable legs must be attached to the finished tabletop.
How to make a circular saw, keeping a balance between economy, functionality and safety
Let’s look at the basic assemblies that make up a home circular saw. It is possible to make them yourself, but with certain skills and tools.
Circular saw frame
The frame can be made of metal angle bars (channels), bought from scrap metal collectors. If you have money. go to the rolled steel warehouse. The legs can be made from old water pipes, connecting them with corners.
A good option for a homemade bed from rolled steel
IMPORTANT! Using bolt connections is forbidden, because due to vibration, such a mount will unscrew.
It is necessary to use electric welding. Be sure to reinforce the corner joints with a jib. The upper part of the base (which will be based on the table) and the podium for the electric motor is made from angle bars with sides at least 50 mm.
If the machine is equipped with wheels for transportation. they must have steel rims and have locks. The higher the weight of the base. the more stable the machine will be, and the safer it will work.
Popular: Overview of circular saws from manual to stationary
What to make a table for a circular saw?
The working surface is made of steel, duralumin or silumin sheets. Textolite, plexiglass or moisture-resistant plywood are acceptable. On top of the plywood, a galvanized sheet metal is piled.
The main condition. the material must not crack from vibrations, have a smooth surface and avoid deflections under the weight of at least 50 kg. If the table top cracks or warps. the circular saw blade will jam.
Universal home-made table for circular saw and router. I recommend this video
This will lead to injury and damage to the workpiece. The use of popular materials OSB and chipboard is undesirable. These materials are unstable to vibrations, and can collapse at the most crucial moment.
There are two options for making a working groove for a circular disk:
You can cut a groove. or place the two halves of the tabletop at a distance from each other.
The disc must protrude over the table by not more than 1/3 of its diameter.
For any kind of work, from sawing firewood to carpentry, a reliable side stop is needed. This can be a metal corner or a bar of hard wood. To adjust the working air gap you can use parallel slots on the tabletop or simply attach the limit switch with clamps.
Side thrust must be parallel to the plane of the blade. The slightest deviation will cause the saw to jam.
What motor for a circular saw??
Do not just “guess what” when installing the electric motor. You need to calculate the power. A circular saw blade with a diameter of 350 mm needs a 1 kW motor, for a diameter of 170 mm a 500 W motor will be enough.
A good choice is a motor from an old washing machine.
Motor from a washing machine
It is designed for continuous work with medium load. If you intend to work with a disc longer than 350 mm, you can use the power unit from a used industrial fan.
Large electric motors, as a rule, are installed on dampers (shock absorbers), which prevent unnecessary vibrations.
For a stationary saw this is unacceptable because a belt or gear drive will not ensure constant engagement.
So the motor is mounted on a rigid and stable base. To adjust the tension of the V-belt pulley, it is possible to move the motor.
How to make a V-belt drive?
V-belt is best. You can use a multi-ribbed drive belt complete with pulleys from an automobile motor.
See what a V-belt drive is and how to calculate it in this video.
The belt drive ensures a certain amount of safety if the disc jams (e.g. a nail in the workpiece). Unlike a rigid pinion gear, the belt will slip on the pulley, preventing destruction of the circular disc.
If the electric motor has no speed regulator, you can make interchangeable pulleys of different diameters. This makes it possible to use discs of all types, under different working speeds.
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The saw blade shaft is an important part of the circular saw
Perhaps the most critical part of a homemade circular saw. It is not safe to make it from a piece of pipe, so it is better to order it from a good turner or buy a ready-made. The same goes for the bearing brackets. To save money, you can use hub kits from your car.
Purchased circular saw shaft with pulley
The bearings must be protected from dust, for this purpose, a gasket is placed in the grooves between the rims of the bearing.
The shaft can have slots with mounts for planer blades. In this case it must be balanced. It can also be equipped with cutter mounts. Then the machine can be used to make paneled doors and cornices of complex shape.
The electric part
Starting device must match the power of the electric motor. The safest solution is the pushbutton with thermal over-current protection. In this case, in case of a jammed disc, the disc can be automatically deactivated.
Electric switchboard must be mounted on dielectric material, wiring must be reliably insulated from the metal frame. Must be readily accessible and easy to operate (do not force the button to disconnect).
Stationary circular saw with planing drum
A stationary circular saw is better to design with a planing drum at once. Without it, most of the work of making it would simply be meaningless, except for the sake of the process of making.
Design of a stationary reciprocating circular saw is shown in fig.:
Design of a stationary circular saw with a planing drum
At its design it is necessary to apply additional measures for safety and quality assurance of the machine’s work. First of all, while you are sawing the planing drum must be covered with a securely fastened protective lid on the pads at the planing depth or a little more, pos. A on the trace. Figure.:
How to adapt a planing drum to a stationary circular saw
The loss in depth of cut will be approx. 6-8 mm (felling depth up to 3-4 mm 3-4 mm thickness of the. For planing on the tabletop along its whole length behind the drum (in the course of the workpiece) a working pad of the same thickness is mounted (pos. B), t.к. the overhanging of the planed part behind the drum will cause it to be planed into the wedge; very shallow, but due to the accumulation of errors during construction or finishing work, it can turn out that the whole processed material is blocked.
Note: by increasing the thickness of the working pad, you can regulate the surfacing depth from the maximum to 0.5 mm.
The motor is important
Secondly, the safety of use of the home-made circular saw and the quality of cutting with it (especially of finishing materials) is largely determined by the external characteristic (VnH) of the drive motor of the machine. TDC is a dependence of torque on the shaft T on its rotation frequency N; rotation frequency (rpm) depends on resistance of the work material to cutting, which, in its turn, depends on speed and effort of workpiece feed.
The performance of a series-excitation induction motor (angle grinder, drill, geared motor) is not monotonous (cf. Fig. 1). Fig.).
External characteristics of series-excitation collector motor and squirrel cage induction motor
Maximum torque is at a certain rpm which is a little less than idle rpm (no load) pch. This is good: In the area of working loads on the shaft ΔTp the motor turns the saw harder the harder the material. Variation of the feed force within these limits has practically no effect on the quality of the cut, i.e.к. the drive speed is kept within the optimum speed range and the highest possible efficiency can be achieved.
Same, but without “adjusting” the saw to knots etc. inhomogeneities, is observed in a fairly wide range of overloads (region ΔT), t.е. no high qualification and fine tactile sense are required from the operator. a beginner (not armless, of course) touched once or twice, and that’s it, the job is done. But, if you press hard, or something like a nail is caught, the dangerous in this case property of the collector motor. the significant zero torque T0. appears. A motor, the armature of which is forcibly braked, will tend to turn by all means: the workpiece can turn and kick in the teeth; the disc can fly apart.
Note: in manual circulators parallel excitation collector motors and/or with special armature winding schemes are used that reduce T0, but the “hump” of VTB is also smoothed. That’s why in drills and grinders, where “biting” ability of the tool is important at a small working stroke, T0 remains big. That’s why it is impossible to put bigger saw blade in angle grinder. defect in work is inevitable, and possibility of traumatism dramatically increases; it concerns abrasive discs to a lesser degree.
VnX of asynchronous electric motor with squirrel-cage rotor is monotonous and rigid enough (at the same fig. right). In the optimal rotation speed range for a given blade, nmin. nmax, the feed force must be maintained very accurately, with a fine feeling for the resistance of the material, i.e.е. Requires a fairly high working skill. “Overfeeding” leads to a drop in both productivity and cut quality. too slow a spinning disc tears the material. But, if the saw jams, the motor will stop and will not start again until the load is relieved. If you use a 3-phase motor with a single-phase starter, it has to be turned off and restarted. This quality of the “asynchronous” power take-over is of great value when cutting long products. a beginner/amateur can gradually learn to work without risking himself or spoiling much material. Therefore it is necessary to make a self-made circular-punching machine only with AC squirrel-cage induction motor.
High capacity industrial circular saws designed for long-term round-the-clock work are equipped with big and heavy motors of 3-5 kW and more. Among other things, this reduces the saw’s sensitivity to material irregularities and expands the range of permissible feed forces (see. higher), which in turn reduces the dependence of the quality of work on the skills and fatigue of the workers. Another peculiarity of circular saws in comparison with the sawmills is that the belt transmission from the motor to the disk is better than the chain transmission, because a cleaner, but higher quality material needs to be cut.
However, the belt tension weakens with time, so the motors of industrial circular saws are mounted on the supports, sliding (and fixed) in the slots (shown by arrows in pos. 1 fig.).
Advantages of the pendulum motor suspension in the home-built circular saw over the sliding saw
It is unreal to cut a long flat groove in the metal without special equipment (metal milling machine), but a motor of 1-2 kW for household circular saw is enough to spare, and it can be put on a pendulum suspension (pos. 2). Belt tensioning in this way is ensured automatically without laborious adjustment work. The wear of the belt in the pendulum suspension is greater, but you do not work a full shift on your circular saw from day to day.
Tools and materials required
For proper and reliable connection of parts, creating a rigid structure that can withstand heavy loads will be needed:
- angle grinder with cutting discs;
- welding machine;
- drill with a set of drills;
- Marking tool. tape measure, meter, angle, iron, iron, core;
- consumables. electrodes, brushes for metal;
- clamps, vise
- metal corners or profiled tube;
- metal sheet for the working plate;
- bolts, washers, nuts, pins;
- metal strip;
- Hardwood boards;
Technology of assembling a stationary circular saw unit
To create such a tool, it is recommended to work in the following sequence:
- creating a working sketch, general and detailed drawings;
- marking out the main elements;
- cutting of blanks;
- assembling the frame of the machine;
- Marking and sawing out the slots and holes in the working plate;
- installation of the motor, shaft, lifting mechanism;
- installation of electrical wiring;
- manufacturing of additional equipment.
Other options for circular saw design
In addition to the above option for the home mater quite interesting option would be to create a universal base to install on it with standard inserts other power tools:
As practice shows, the creation and successful operation of such machines allows not only to solve the problem of improving the home workshop, but also significantly saves money on the purchase of expensive equipment.
And although such machines do not look quite aesthetically pleasing, they show excellent results in everyday work.
Circular grinder from an angle grinder
This option for the manufacture of the machine is more popular, as a rare owner who likes to do everything with their own hands, does not have, or in the near future is not going to buy, an angle grinder. The first of the stages of making a stationary saw unit is also to make a special table for fixing the angle grinder.
In this case, the process becomes more complicated, because the main difficulty is to think about how to attach the angle grinder to the bed: how to make a sliding stop and an axial handle. However, there is a ready-made method that allows you to get a reliable connection.
- To make the sliding stop, two pieces of steel angle. They are mounted on both sides of the saw blade. Then they are connected by cross-bonding (bolts and nuts). Washers are used to provide the necessary clearance.
- Beforehand, a metal band clamp is stretched over the tool, the screw tie of it should be at the bottom. A metal strip, folded in half, is attached to the holes designed for the slide stop.
- In the gearbox of the angle grinder make several holes for the bolts: first disassemble the body, then mark the points for drilling. They will be used to fasten the axis handle. This element is made from a piece of metal bar or metal pipe. The handles are shaped into brackets. Drill holes at the ends. at the points of attachment to the gearbox.
- They make a rod, which is obligatory to regulate the depth of cut. It is made from a piece of metal bar. Form a hinge on one side, rivet it slightly, drill a hole designed for a thrust bolt. On the other end, threads are cut, first one secure nut is screwed on, and after the construction is assembled, the second one. Adjustment of cutting depth is performed by tightening or loosening them.
Not too complicated actions will make it possible to get a full-fledged circular machine for cutting various materials. The same is done with the drill, which can to some extent replace the angle grinder. To avoid potential mistakes, it is better to use the drawings, which can be found on the Internet if you want anyone “suffering”.
If the master dreams of engaging in woodworking seriously, then there is only one way for him. to make a full-fledged circular machine. Creation of such a unit will take more time and effort, but in the process of its operation it will pay back all costs. The only requirement is a well-thought-out drawing, so it is better to use ready-made schemes, which can be slightly “adjusted” to your conditions.
This is the basis for any machine. the frame on which all the main elements of the construction are attached. It must be stable and reliable, so the optimal material alone is unbeatable metal. The best options. thick-walled angle or the same profile tube. To fasten the parts of a stationary machine usually use welding. If you plan a collapsible design, you can allow the use of bolted joints, but in this case the fastening can hardly be called “strong”: it will need constant testing.
Here too, metal is the favorite. The best materials are steel or aluminium alloys. A possible variant. thick plywood, which is padded with sheet iron. The ideal tabletop for any woodworking machine must have a smooth surface, be able to resist friction, withstand weight up to 50-60 kg easily, without the slightest hint of deflection.
It is made a hole for the disk. There are two options that are used in the case of a circular saw:
The second method is preferable for metal tabletop, as in home conditions cutting a groove. an operation quite difficult. On the tabletop attach a parallel stop. Handy metal angle is often used in this role. For its attachment also make a hole. The alternative. reliable and powerful clamps.
The choice of motor for the future circular saw depends on what lumber is planned to work with it. If discs with a diameter of 150-170 mm will be used, a unit with a power of 0.5 kW will suffice for them. For larger saw blades (350 mm and more) a bigger motor is suitable. at least 1,1 kW.
If the circular machine will be outdoors (for example, outside under a shed), you can even use a gasoline engine with a small power. It is possible to make it removable.
The best drive for a circular saw is V-belt drive. In this case two pulleys are used: the first on the motor, the second on the drive shaft. The reasons for this choice. safety and convenience: in the case of a small accident, the belt will simply slip, alerting the master of the need to turn off the device.
Pulleys with different ring grooves (grooves) or diameters make it easier to adjust the speed of the disc, allowing you to find the best setting for different types of wood. It is almost impossible to make the shaft, to which the rotor rotates, with your own hands, so you have to buy or order this part from a turner. The bearings used to mount the shaft must be sealed, otherwise their service life will be short.
Anyone who is not into metalwork will be able to make a circular saw that has a special feature. the pendulum motor suspension. It is convenient in that the shaft, motor and cutting disc are in one common frame.
One side is hinged to the frame, the other to a screw that can be adjusted if the height of the blade exit is altered. The advantage of this system. the possibility of using discs of different sizes, easy to adjust the height of the cut.
A simple circular saw with their own hands can be made from various tools, but the best option is a stationary model, equipped with a powerful motor. On the other hand, the choice of model depends entirely on the master, on the planned workpiece “favorites” and volume of work.
You can learn more about the process by watching this fascinating
Wood frame machine
The easiest and most affordable way to make a bed for the machine involves the use of ordinary boards or thick plywood for these purposes. In this variant of construction the executive unit is placed directly under the table (tabletop) in which a slot of corresponding size is made for the cutting blade.
The frame made of wood is reliable and easy to make
As an example, we will consider the manufacture of bed height of approximately 110. 120 cm, designed to attach a hand circular saw on it. The length of the table top of such a construction can be changed in small limits at your discretion.
Please note! The height of the construction can be adjusted if desired, taking into account the height of the person working on the machine. And if you need to work very long boards on it, the tabletop dimensions can be increased to the required size. If you do this you will have to worry about installing additional supporting legs.
The most convenient material for the tabletop is laminated plywood with a thickness of at least 50 mm. However, other materials (Plexiglas or fiberglass boards, for example) can also be chosen for this purpose. The use of popular materials such as OSB is not recommended, as they do not have the required surface strength.
To make a machine on a wooden base, you will need the materials listed below:
- sheet iron workpieces;
- a standard sheet of thick laminated plywood;
- a pair of 50×50 mm woodblocks;
- thick boards with a size of 50 x 100 mm;
- A steel angle, necessary to increase the rigidity of fixing the rails;
- circular saw;
- two screw clamps.
In addition, you will have to stock up on the following set of tools, without which the assembly of the machine is simply impossible:
- Classic screwdriver and electric drill;
- a simple wood saw or electric jigsaw;
- measuring tools (angle, tape measure, ruler);
- portable woodworking cutter.
In the absence of such a cutter, you can use the help of friends or neighbors who have a milling machine in their household.
Additional information: Some home craftsmen prefer to make countertops from used kitchen tables. However, such a design will not be distinguished by durability, since the original material has been operated for a long time in a humid room. That’s why it will be more reasonable to make all elements of the construction from new blanks, which at the same time will allow taking into account your personal tastes and preferences.
Elements of construction of the sawing machine for wood created by your own hands
To make a stationary machine at home for sawing materials, first of all you need to know what structural elements it consists of. Whether it is a machine made by your own hands from a manual circular saw, angle grinder or a tool assembled from disparate elements. the set of basic parts is the same.
The surface of the table should be made flat, for a better product at the output.
The main elements of the stationary circular units are:
- Table for connecting and fixing mechanisms. If the circular saw is powerful and massive, it is better to use a metal table. Options of chipboard, wood, plywood are suitable, the main thing is that the surface should be smooth.
- The shaft. The most critical part. When making it separately use a lathe. The dimensions should be calculated accurately, this will avoid runout.
- Cover. This element ensures safe use of the circular saw.
- Engine. When using an angle grinder or circular saw, it is part of the power tool.
For your information! If the design is supposed to be prefabricated, when creating a circular saw with their own hands, the motor from a washing machine will be the most successful option.
In the construction of the circular saw there must be movable parts of drives, and in the power supply circuit must be installed a button to stop the motor in case of emergency.
Circulars of any fixed type consist of the main parts.
What to make?
First question. what cutting depth is needed? Teeth of the saw blade must enter the material at a certain slight angle, otherwise the cut will be torn, and the work will be dangerous. Angle of entry of the tooth determines the allowable overhang of the saw blade over the working table. For discs with teeth of different profile the sizes of ledge are a little bit different, but in general it is not necessary to “push” the disc more than on 1/3 of its diameter. it can “bite” that will create dangerous situation.
So, depending primarily on the required depth of cut the circular saw with your own hands is made by different type of design; a lot of means and the required cutting length. For sawing wood with a thickness of approx. up to 120 mm requires a blade with a diameter of 350 mm or more. the thickness of the cut can be doubled by making each cut twice from opposite sides, but then the cut length will need to be counter-cutting. A stationary woodworking machine with circular saw blade and reciprocating saw blade is then required. 1 in Fig. the cutting length is determined by the length of the workpiece and the dimensions of the workshop. Asynchronous motor for 1,2-2 kW will be enough for the drive; an electric motor of such power can be found single-phase for 220 V. If you want to build very cheap, by cutting not barked round logs, you need a much more sophisticated sawmill, and not circular saw.
For clean sawing on site during finishing work (say on-site) up to 1.5. 2.5 m in length, in t.ч. at any angle, a manual circular saw with a guide rail, brand-name (pos. 2a) or self-made (pos. 2б). It is also possible to build a circular table with a side stop (pos. 3a and 3b). The length of the cut becomes unlimited (within the room), but its depth will not exceed 40-50 mm, taking into account its reduction by the thickness of the rails or tabletop.
Amateurs also try to adapt for circular saws angle grinder (angle grinder) and handheld drills (pos. 4 и 5). Power angle grinder at 1300 watts, in theory, is enough to cut a depth of 200-250 mm. But you can not put on angle grinder saw blade larger than regular one (usually 120-160 mm), even if it is designed for high rotation speed. Real depth of cut will not exceed 30-32 mm; if you “go deeper”, you will get dangerous “bites”. The reason for this is the external characteristic of the electric collector motor, see “Technical data”. further.
Circular from a drill is possible only low-power, to a depth of not very good quality cuts up to 15-20 mm. Why? Because the axial run-out of the core drill chuck with percussion mechanism (or perorator) is inadmissible for the saw blade, and the accurate impact-free drills are low-powered. Trying to saw with them deeper little by little, limiting the feed rate of the workpiece is useless. the saw “bites” and tears the material. The reason is the same collector motor.
Woodworking machines are dangerous machines. There is no place in the popular article for description of the TU and HSE contents, and the DIYer is responsible for himself. Therefore, let’s briefly show “from the opposite”: what a circular machine should not be, so that work on it was possible without injury and mutilation. An example of a “work” which breaks all the indispensable rules of more or less safe construction of circular sawing and mitre sawing machines is shown in fig. (the electrical part is a separate topic).
Example of a faulty and dangerous circular sawing and boring machine
- A. saw blade without blade guard. This is a common malady of almost all home-made circular saws. Just keep your fingers away from the saw, use the workpiece pusher, and that’s it OK. So, for your information. now in the Internet it is possible to run across a saw blade, made by methods of powder metallurgy. Bumping into a nail, it very readily breaks into small sharp splinters.
- B. disc protrusion is clearly more than 1/3 of the diameter. “Bites” of the jerky workpiece in my hands, a choppy step cut, are unavoidable. Injuries at work are more than likely.
- B. the power train is also not covered by the cover.
- D, D. the table is made of dissimilar poor quality materials. Transverse skewing of the workpiece and “binding” of the saw with all sorts of bad aftermath is also quite likely.
The materials used to make the machine:
The process of making a circular machine is shown at
We also need an axle, housing bearings, a couple of pulleys and a belt.
On one end of the axle is installed a pulley, and on the other end there is a flange to mount the discs from the circulars.
Screw the housing bearings to the frame.
From a piece of sheet steel, make a pad mount for the motor.
We make a table top of sheet steel, it is better to take a thicker metal, so it does not bend and do not affect the cutting process.
Under the sheet of steel, the author made rests from pieces of pipe, the sheet should be raised above the axle and bearings.
It goes without saying that the table top must be lifted up to change the blade. But also the hinged attachment of the tabletop will allow you to adjust the depth of cut. To solve the problem, the author hinged the table top on the strong gate hinges. On the other side there is a stop in the form of a bolt, with this bolt you can adjust the angle of elevation of the table top.
For the longitudinal sawing of boards, we fasten a guide angle to the table with clamps.
With this circular machine, you can cut planks, slats, as well as saw blanks made of wood.
The whole process of making a circular saw is also shown in this