How to Make a Shaft for Circular
The circular machine is the tool that no home master can do without. This equipment is especially relevant for a country house or cottage. But working with a manual machine is not always convenient, and factory machines are quite expensive.
The way out of this situation may be the manufacture of this device with your own hands. The basis of this machine can be not only a hand-held circular saw, but even an electric drill or an angle grinder.
Circular Machine Design
It is very simple to make a frame for a circular machine with your own hands. For the manufacture will be needed the most conventional lumber and quite a bit of time.
Before you think about the design of the upcoming machine, you need to calculate the load to which it will be exposed. The main thing in the frame is reliability and stability. For powerful industrial saws, the base is a welded reinforced metal structure. But for using it yourself, such an assembly is not needed.
If you just decided to make your woodworking machine, then you need take into account the main parameters equipment. Since the saws can be different, of course, the design of the bed can also be different.
First need determine tool power. As a rule, for home use, equipment is chosen where the power parameters do not exceed 850 watts. But, for example, when building a summer house or a country house, you often need to saw a very large amount of wood.
That is, and the power of the circular is required more. But experienced craftsmen do not advise buying saws, where this figure is more than 1250 watts. Installing this equipment in a home workshop is absolutely not justified. And work on it will only increase the cost of electricity.
The greater the productivity of the machine, the more stable it needs a foundation. For professional circularists, as a rule, they establish the basis, welded from steel profile. Sometimes these beds are even concreted onto the floor. Since vibration of the device may result in a danger to life.
Depth of the proposed section. The thickness of the material that will be processed on your machine depends on this parameter. This indicator in semi-professional and professional machines varies in the range of 5-8 cm. For cutting boards and thick plywood, this is quite enough.
But working with logs on this machine will be already inconvenient. In addition, it must be taken into account that this characteristic of a home-made saw is reduced. The depth of cut will be less than about 1 cm. But this can be avoided if you provide for the ability to lower or raise the disc in the table bed.
When making a DIY tool, you need take into account the frequency of its rotation. If you need a circular for the preparation of building materials, then this figure may be less. If you need a clean and even cut, then the speed is quite high. This is necessary, for example, for the manufacture of furniture.
But in this case, there are certain nuances. This saw is not suitable for cutting plastic materials. Due to the very high revolutions of the tool the disk is warming up, and the plastic starts to melt.
Therefore, it is better to choose an apparatus where the rotation speed is not more than 4500 rpm, in this case, a bed for a circular saw can be make of wood. The vibration of this machine is low and additional table reinforcement is not required.
Well, in the end, what you need to provide is the location of the buttons and other controls on your machine. When assembling the saw with your own hands, do not forget that access to the control panel must be safe. This rule is all the more important when the open part of the saw is at the bottom of the countertop.
In this version, a panel with switches is best placed from the outside of the machine either make a lifting countertop. A similar design is convenient for servicing the device. Then, when you take into account all the nuances and little things, you can begin the direct assembly of the table.
DIY circular saw making
The simplest version of the bed for circular is a design made of boards and thick plywood. Over, the tool is directly attached to the bottom of the stationary countertops. A special slot is made for the saw in the table top.
The dimensions for the table can be changed as it is convenient for you to work on it. For example, an average table is described, the height of which is 110-120 cm. But a lot depends on the growth of a person working with equipment. Also, at your request, you can change the length of the countertop.
If you plan to work with boards with a length of more than 2.6 m, then the cover on the bed will need more. In this case, you need to make changes directly to the design and additionally add some supports (legs). Otherwise, the table will create strong vibrations.
For countertops, usually used plywood, which has a thickness of at least 5 cm. But you can also choose plexiglass or fiberglass plates. But professionals do not recommend using chipboard, this material is not reliable enough.
Assembly tools and materials
For a circular saw, it is imperative to provide guides. They help to cut wood much more accurately. This design welded from a steel corner and fixed to the lid with clamps.
To fix stationary guides is undesirable, since in the future you will not be able to change their position.
To build a table you will need such materials:
- Iron sheet;
- Plywood sheet;
- A beam measuring 50 × 50 mm;
- Board size 50 × 100 mm;
- Steel corner for guides;
- Two clamps;
- Hand circular saw.
You also need to pre-cook all the tools that will be needed to assemble the table:
- Electric screwdriver.
- Hacksaw or electric jigsaw.
- Measurement tools (tape measure, square, ruler).
- Hand mill or milling machine.
When everything is prepared, you can start the assembly of the table itself. Sometimes craftsmen collect countertops from unnecessary dining or kitchen tables. But this design is unlikely to last long. Therefore, it is much more reasonable to make all the structural elements with your own hands. In this case, you can also take into account your personal needs.
Making countertops for a circular machine
The assembly of the table begins with the manufacture of countertops. The plywood sheet is marked so that the two edges of the lid are in size with the edges of the iron sheet. Plywood is cut with a hacksaw or jigsaw.
The cut edge can be machined with a milling cutter, but this operation is optional. Since in the frame the main parameter is reliability, not an attractive look. The table top is rubbed “rough” with sandpaper.
Bottom countertops mark circular circle slot. Why first you need to measure the dimensions of the sole of the unit. The easiest way to do this is to unscrew the disk from the device and simply circle the necessary part of the saw. These measurements are required to determine the footprint.
Using a manual cutter, the bars are selected to a depth of approximately 0.9-1.1 cm. If you do not have a cutter, then this work can be done using a chisel, but it will take much more time.
Then, when the seat is done, try on the saw, and if necessary, adjust the recess. Mark the slots for the circle and fixing the fasteners. If you need the circle to rise and fall, then you need install the pendulum mechanism for countertops.
In this case, the slot must be made in the form of a truncated pyramid. In this case, the hypothetical vertex of the pyramid will be directed downward. Directly the frame for the lifting mechanism is best made from steel corners, which are welded together.
Table frame manufacturing
The marking for fixing the transverse rails and longitudinal, which perform the function of stiffening ribs, is best set on the wrong side of the countertop. Directly planks are made of bar. You will need:
- Two transverse parts, with a length equal to the width of the countertop minus 7–9 cm on each side.
- Two longitudinal ribs, equal to the length of the cover minus 7−9 cm on each side.
Then need make nests for screws. The rails must be fixed on the cover so that the countertop extends beyond the edges of the frame by 7–9 cm. The fasteners should be as reliable and durable as possible.
The first mount must be installed approximately 40-50 mm from the edge of the rail. The distance between the screws is approximately 23–25 cm. All details need to drill right through. The self-tapping screw is attached from the side of the lid so that its cap is completely sunk in the tree.
First, the transverse ribs are fixed. To make the table cover as durable as possible, the edges of the rail must first be spread with wood glue. The design is fixed with clamps, and without removing them, screw the screws.
The countertops are allowed to dry completely. After, the longitudinal rails are installed in the same way. Then the parts of the frame are pulled together, installing two fasteners on each side. Now the clamps can be removed.
Fixing the legs (supports)
Table legs are made of bar. The height of the supports is selected individually. In practice, it is most convenient to work at the machine when the countertop located at hip level. Before fastening, each support must be planed so that the leg descends from below by an angle. So, the area of the base of the support should be slightly larger, in contrast to the area of the peak.
It is best to fix the legs with steel corners. They need to be pinched a little so that the base of the machine is in a “spacer”. It gives the table extra durability. Bolts with washers are used as fasteners, they are fastened with hats outward. Otherwise, during operation, you may be injured on the protruding parts of the fasteners.
The whole structure will be more stable if the additional supports are pulled off with diagonal rails. They are mounted in pairs from each side of the machine.
Lid surface polished and varnished or used to cover a steel sheet that is mounted on self-tapping screws. At the very end, on the prepared place, the tool is attached directly.
On the table top you can additionally make markup, it will help to smoothly and correctly saw wood. The circular saw control panel is located on the outside of the machine. As a rule, it is mounted on one of the legs of the table. That’s it, the do-it-yourself circular saw is ready.