How to make a single axle tractor at home

How to make a homemade single axle tractor with his own hands

Land cultivation in the cultivation of the household plot always requires some physical effort and time. Therefore, some owners of land plots over time to acquire power tillers, greatly facilitating this work. Their variety is now widely represented in the market, but if you want it can be done by yourself, while significantly saving money, and collecting equipment for specific operating conditions. Many craftsmen prefer to assemble a single-axle tractor with their own hands.

Makes with internal combustion engines have more power and functionality compared to their electric counterparts. This allows you to significantly expand the scope of their use. Attached equipment in the form of a plow, ploughshare, cultivator, rake, can easily be attached to the frame bracket. Also, the unit can be easily transformed into a roller or home mini-tractor.

Asked the question “how to make a homemade single axle tractor,” you must first understand its structure. To assemble a homemade motocultivator with your own hands, you need, first of all, an engine, transmission and a reduction gearbox.

For assembly work you will need a standard set of tools: a set of wrenches, a drill, an angle grinder, a welder, and when assembling more complex and heavy-duty machines even a lathe and milling some nodes.

Chainsaw cultivator

Perhaps the best option in the manufacture of a homemade motocultivator is to use the engine of a chainsaw in its construction. The advantages are the productivity and power of the unit, the undemanding attitude towards fuel, its light weight and compactness. And with components for its assembly there is not much of a problem. Everything you need can be found at the car market or flea markets.

Moto-block frame is made in the form of a rhombus from metal angle of 3200x3200x3200 mm;
• the engine is mounted on the crossbars at the top, the gas tank is usually attached a little lower;
• The intermediate shaft supports are attached to the front struts;
• The driveshaft supports are installed on the longitudinal ribs

With this layout the center of gravity of the unit has a rear location (above the support wheel), so it is possible to install an additional weighting element at the front to displace it.

To adjust the speed the original gearbox is used, also motorcycle sprockets are used (main and intermediate,) the number of teeth of which is selected in accordance with the required power output. Working tools of the unit are made in the form of wheels with blades and can perform the function of a trimmer for grass, power tiller or power hoe.

As an alternative, you can also use the engine from a lawnmower, which is similar in its characteristics to the drive of a chainsaw.

A single-axle tractor from a motorcycle

Often old motorcycle equipment can rust for years in garages and barns, but it can easily obtain a second life. Motorcycle engines are excellent for creating a homemade motocultivator with their own hands, but most often used two-stroke engines from older models, as well as from scooters. But in recent years, motors from scooters or mopeds have also become actively used, giving a second life to the broken equipment by remaking.

Transmission is of several types:

• toothed. the most common and easy to install;
• Combined (gear-worm gear);
• chain-and-belt, toothed;
• Hydraulic. increasingly popular but more expensive than mechanical transmissions.

What system to use, everyone chooses depending on the parts available and the functionality of the equipment. But from practice it can be noted that homemade grass trimmers can compete with the factory models by their characteristics.

Possible schemes

The frame is welded from an angle of the required size, to which the engine with the fuel system and the gas tank are attached. The transmission of torque from the reduction gear to the wheels is carried out by a chain. It is possible to use the axle from the donor motor vehicles, installed on the wheel axle. All controls are moved to the machine’s steering wheel.

When designing heavier vehicles, the standard ZID-5 engine or its other modifications are used, which were previously widely used in various machines. Transmission from “Zaporozhets” and a lightweight leading axle are installed in conjunction with it.

Units with electric drive

An electrically powered cultivator can be a good help when cultivating small plots of land. The most popular is the industrial model “Mole”. As a rule, an electric cultivator has less power, and its use is limited by the power cord. But still this technique is very popular among dacha owners. At the same time, many craftsmen prefer to make a homemade electric cultivator with their own hands.

Operating principle

The power unit of an electric cultivator is an electric motor, which transmits torque to a wheel-type cutter or other cultivation element through the gearbox. Controls of the technique are on the steering wheel. Most often these cultivators are one-wheeled

The necessary depth of loosening the soil is reached by means of pressing the handlebars and adjusting the height of coulter. As a rule, it is about 25 centimeters, which is enough to cultivate the soil.

The second life of a meat grinder

As the basis for a homemade electric cultivator, you can use any electric motor designed for 220 V, but most often craftsmen use the power unit and gearbox from an electric meat grinder.

The only thing to do is to knock down the working nozzle and install a shaft in its place (most often a bored scrap metal is used for this purpose). The shaft is attached to the wheels-gruntlets with knives, which easily break and loosen the ground.

But other types of electrical equipment can also be used as power units, so if there is a desire to experiment with the assembly of an electric cultivator with their own hands, the drawings of such equipment can easily be found on the Internet.

How to make a single axle tractor with your own hands

Almost ten years ago I bought a house with a plot of land in the village. The plot had to be cultivated, but without equipment, this work was unbearable, and there was no money left for it. So I was forced to build a single-axle tractor for this purpose.

By that time I already had experience in amateur construction. again, for trips to the countryside in winter time I made a “stick” snowmobile (with a belt-and-bar track). Although I have seen a lot of power tillers (both manufactured and homemade), but I built one myself for the first time, so much did as intuition dictated. The one-axle tractor was supposed to become a vehicle for the same trips, and even as a cargo and cross-country vehicle, because part of the way to the village was a country lane, which is possible to call road only with a stretch.

Looking ahead, I note that the design turned out to be quite successful: simple and reliable. Subsequently, I myself have built a few similar power tillers to order, and other craftsmen, including the guys, when constructing their machines took it as an example. When preparing this publication I used photos of several of them, so the performance of individual units may not coincide with the original design. But it can be used by those who want to repeat the design in their version.

Making a single axle tractor with your own hands drawings dimensions

There was no problem with the choice of power unit. there was a not-new, but quite serviceable engine from the motorcycle IZH-Planeta-3. I had got it “in a bag”, disassembled into parts, but I revived and reassembled it. Design power of 18 liters.с. It could not, of course, because its cylinder was already quite worn out, but it gave out 15 to 16 horsepower.

I must admit that it was more than enough. From it, as from a stove, and began to “dance”, though special alterations, except equipment of the cylinder with forced air cooling, it did not make. Later I replaced the valve with a petal valve. the engine characteristics have changed for the better. easier starting, a noticeable increase in thrust, reduced fuel consumption, and the engine itself runs smoother and quieter.

The other part, the gearbox, underwent significant reconstruction. I used it together with the main gear from the cargo scooter “Muravey”.

First, I removed satellites from differential cup. The windows of the cup widened by cutting off the lintels between the adjacent pairs of existing windows by welding. I put the differential cup on the shaft and welded one part to the other through the enlarged windows.

Second, I rebuilt the drive shaft with the basic diameter of 30 mm for mounting of mills or wheels with trunnions in its central part for the bearings 207 (replaced them with 80207. with side shields). On the shaft ends, together with wheel hubs, I drilled holes into which I inserted cylindrical keys. it turned out that during intensive and heavy use the diametrical bolts that fix the wheels to the shaft can’t stand. they cut off. In the ends of the shaft threaded holes (sockets) made M10, in each of which screwed a screw with washer. it does not allow to fall out the key. Here I also notice that the wheels are from the industrial model “Cascade”. For earthmoving I put tubeless (caterpillar) wheels of size 5.00-10″, and for transport, pneumatic 6.00-12″.

Thirdly, from the gearbox casing I had cut the lugs, which were outside the limits of its halves. The halves of the crankcase itself “encased” on three sides (front, top and back) by strapping from rolled steel angle with 30×25 mm flanges. I had to work with the strapping to make it fit snugly, but now the aluminum crankcase has been reinforced.

I moved the shaft with sprockets from the left to the right part of the drive. The mounting holes in the cheeks (flanges) of the primary shaft of the gearbox almost match, except for some. they need to be drilled. It was not necessary to do such a reshuffle, but it simplified the transmission and made it possible to do without an intermediate shaft.

Then proceeded to the layout of the relative positioning of the power unit and gearbox. But before that I made a motor mount (in fact, it also serves as a frame of the whole motoblock). Matorama is a square tube 600 mm long, welded from two pieces of channel bars On the top of the motor mount I placed the power unit crankcase, and the bottom was mated to her gearbox crankcase so that the drive shaft was located about half of its length. Because the distances from the symmetry planes of the engine and gearbox are different, the first had to be shifted a dozen millimeters to the left (in running direction) side. At the same time I moved the engine crankcase on the engine housing a little bit forward, to increase the distance between the transmission sprockets and to install one more tensioning sprocket between them. In this place of transmission (between the sprockets of the power unit and gearbox) to increase traction power could be installed an intermediate shaft (sometimes it is called “stroke-reducer”). But on my snowmobile acceptable total gear ratio is “derived” by using the gearbox from the “IZh-56”, and the engine power is already in excess.

After alignment of the output sprocket of the power unit (sprocket of the secondary shaft of the power unit gearbox) and the input sprocket of the gearbox to the motor mount, I welded strapping of the crankcase halves and for fixing the motor mount to the power unit. brackets out of a 4-mm steel sheet, bent in the form of a pressed channel. I mounted the engine crankcase on the engine housing, measured and welded brackets to it. I drilled fixing holes in the brackets on the spot. Actually, if in the brackets of engine crankcase mounting we can make not usual holes, but oblong slots, then we can do without sprocket tensioning, and to tighten the chain we shift the engine relative to motor mount, thus having simplified the construction of transmission.

After laying out the main units, I began to design the rest of the mounts: control arms, hitch and attachments. Steering arms (made of thick-walled pipe with an outside diameter of 27 mm) are bolted to the rear bracket of the power unit and supported by push-pull props. And on the arms themselves I later fastened the fuel tank on the racks. At the back of the engine housing I welded a foreend. part of the drawbar for the power tiller. Forkop is used for hitching tillage implements like ploughs, cultivators and others. At the front of the engine mount I welded a stud for attaching ballast plates that improve traction on muddy ground or when cultivating plants on the site.

Universal motor blocks. an opportunity for experimentation

If the owner of the homestead can work with different hand tools, he will not have much trouble to think up new ways to use power tillers, and not only for their direct purpose of cultivating the soil. First of all it is possible thanks to properly designed construction of motorized block. Therefore, the home craftsman will not make it very difficult to make homemade for such equipment by hinging on it various improved devices. At the same time on the shelves of stores there are already ready designs for extending the functionality of a power tiller.

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Feasibility of self-made machines

Despite the fact that the market offers a greater variety of attachments, they can not always be suitable for certain tasks. And the price. quality ratio sometimes leaves much to be desired. Therefore, many gardeners make the necessary adaptations for power tillers with their own hands. To do this, it is enough to have on hand a drill, an angle grinder and a welding machine, as well as to possess the skills to work with them.

Only in individual cases, when more accurate calculations and turning work are needed, you have to turn to a narrow specialist.

An advantage of self-made models is the fact that at any salvage yard you can easily find a necessary component or unit from an old car, suitable for the construction.

Mini Bulldozer

Turn a single-axle tractor into a miniature bulldozer capable of leveling small areas or removing snow and debris can be installed on it with a shovel blade. Sheet metal at least 3 mm thick is used for this. The bottom part of the shovel should be slightly bent forward with respect to the general plane, fix a strip of thick rubber for snow removal or cover it with tin (for excavation work). To strengthen the entire structure at the back it is necessary to weld a few stiffeners from a metal angle.

Self-propelled rake

Despite the availability of factory rakes, many farmers prefer to make them themselves, taking into account the peculiarities of their farm: the size of the meadow, the topography.

Metal pipes and hardened rods are used as materials for the rake. But as an option, you can use the factory hand forks, welding them to the base. For the convenience of work, it is desirable to install small wheels or paws-skates on the edges, which will relieve the load on the entire design.

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Single axle tractor with their own hands (30 photos)

Homemade single axle tractor with his own hands: detailed photos of the step-by-step making of a power tiller.

Greetings homemakers! For a long time I am interested in the topic of homemade power tillers and here I want to show a version of such a homemade tractor made by Vitaly Bochkov.

Let’s look in detail at the design of a power tiller and the main steps of its assembly.

This design uses the rear axle from the VAZ “classic”, axle stockings shortened under the track.

The power tiller frame is made from angles and pieces of pipe.

The gearbox is also from Zhiguli. From the gearbox to the axle is a reduction chain gear.

In this design, a belt clutch is implemented, pulleys are installed on the engine and gearbox shafts, a pair of belts and a pressure roller.

The engine is equipped with a four-stroke air-cooled gasoline engine with a capacity of 9 liters.с.

Additionally made a protective cladding for the engine and fenders on the wheels.

Homemade single axle tractor is mainly used for towing a trailer.

How to make attachments to power tillers with your own hands

In principle, most of the equipment is very simple in design and easy to make from what is at hand. True, you still need to buy a hitch for the hinges. And other devices as a potato planter, kartofelekapalka, gruntozatsevki, planter, okuchnikovki you can make and yourself.

Makeshift hoe to the power tiller

To make a homemade rocker to the tiller, you need to take two metal discs 2 mm thick and place them opposite each other so that they open outward.

When we found the right angle for the discs, we need to bolt or just weld the perch.

Now we need to fix it on the hitch we bought to the tiller and go!

Homemade potato planter

The device of homemade potato planter reminds something of an arrow. Here, too, there are two discs on the bottom, but on top there is a special bowl into which the tubers of potatoes are poured. From the hole in the bowl tubers fall into the ground, and the discs of the potato planter are arranged to bury them with each step.

To make a homemade potato planter, we need to assemble the frame, wheels and wheel axle, steel pins, hopper for tubers, hitching sprockets and adjusting mechanism. Pay attention to the frame when you make the cover, because this is the main organ of the potato-planter.

All other organs are attached to it. The wheels at the front are closed with a metal plate, without it, the potatoes will fall out of the hopper when we do not need it.

Choose and adjust correctly potato planter adjusting device. That’s to distribute the planting material in the soil properly. Cover the bottom of the hopper with rubber so that the potatoes do not fall out in vain. The potato planter can work on a variety of wheels.

How to make the grousers to power tillers with your own hands

To make them yourself you need some blanks, an angle grinder and a welder.

To make the grousers, you can use old car rims. Get a steel angle, it will later be our teeth on the grousers. Take the half axle and mount the bearing on it.

In the center of the wheel disk weld a square plate so that its corners touched the edges of the disk. To be sure, we make holes in the plate and additionally bolt it to the disc. Fix the axle from the inside of the disk to our plate.

When our wheel is ready, let’s get to work on the hooks. Earlier, we said that you need to buy a steel angle in order to then remake it by hand. So, we cut a corner with an angle grinder into parts, put each two pieces into a corner and fasten them with a welder.

Hooks, which we have, you must place on the rim of the disk at a distance of 15-20 cm from each other.

The second way of making homemade notch hooks

There is another way to do wheels with cleats. If you have an old gas bottle, and do not have any grousers, this might be the right solution. Cut a circle (rim) from a cylinder five to seven centimeters wide, the circumference of the rim should be 30 cm.

After that, from a metal plate of 40 mm do hooks and the same way as in the previous version, we fix them at a distance of 15 cm from each other. In addition, to each hook in its center weld an additional plate, which creates an additional “tooth” grouser.

To the edge of each hitch add another 60 cm. it is for greater entry into the soil. We weld a square plate to the rim of one of the metal discs, that will be the axis of the grouser.

Mothballs and attachments to them

And now for a clearer picture of what can be attachments, we present you a video of possible attachments for power tillers.

Earlier we considered the possibility of using a plow (homemade) instead of a tiller as an attachment for a power tiller. Both the cutter and plow perform similar functions, but the quality of processing is different. This is also how a reversible plough differs from a standard plough.

Such a plough has a more complicated design, in which the body from above is equipped with a curved feather. Because of its construction, a reversible plow not only plows the ground, but also turns the soil layer it has plowed. This can be useful when working with heavy soil. The construction of a reversible plough is much more complicated than that of a regular plough, and only a professional can make a reversible plough themselves. It can be very difficult to choose the right quality blanks and in the process do not make a mistake anywhere.

In order to assemble such a plow yourself, you need to know what to assemble it from, that is, what parts need to be made first.

To make a plow Zykov his own hands, you need to make a stand, which will chain the plow to the motoblock, plow body with ploughshare, field board (thanks to it the plow becomes more stable) and a feather, which overturns the earth. We make the moldboard of this plow from a half-meter diameter pipe with a wall thickness of 5 mm. We turn on the welder to cut the mouldboard, which we then grind with an angle grinder. For the body birch steel plate thickness of 2-3 mm.

The feasibility of homemade ploughs

Despite the fact that there is a greater variety of attachments on the market, they may not always be suitable for certain tasks. And the price-quality ratio sometimes leaves much to be desired. Therefore, many gardeners produce the necessary attachments for power tillers with their own hands. All you need to have a drill, an angle grinder and a welder on hand, as well as the skills to work with them.

Only in some cases, when you need more accurate calculations and turning work, you have to turn to narrow specialists.

The good thing about self-made cars is that at any salvage yard you can easily find the necessary component or unit from an old car, suitable for the construction.

Mini bulldozer

You can turn a single-axle tractor into a miniature bulldozer capable of leveling small areas or removing snow and debris by installing a shovel blade on it. Sheet metal at least 3 mm thick is used for this. The lower part of the shovel should be slightly bent forward in relation to the general plane, fix a strip of thick rubber for snow removal or cover it with tin (for excavation work). To strengthen the entire structure at the back you need to weld a few stiffeners from a metal angle.

Self-propelled rake

Despite the availability of factory rakes, many farmers prefer to make them themselves, taking into account the peculiarities of their farm: the size of the meadow, the topography.

Metal pipes and hardened rods are used as materials for rakes. But as an option, you can use the factory hand forks, welding them to the base. For the convenience of work, it is desirable to install small wheels or paws-skates on the edges, which will relieve the load on the entire structure.

Earth cultivation tools

For processing the land, craftsmen have developed a number of devices that are superior to the factory products.

often than not, a plow made by one’s own hands is used as a device for a power tiller, since the factory-made ones are quite expensive. For its manufacture, you should use a sheet iron at least 4 mm thick, from which you cut out directly the knife and pipes with the same size walls, for the frame and mounting.

Tiller

A device for ditching seedbeds can be made from two metal discs. They must be the same size with a diameter of at least 50 cm. It is desirable to pre-sharpen the edge of the discs for better soil intake.

Their attachment to the frame should be designed so that it was possible to change the distance between the discs according to the width of the bed.

You can also consider new versions of all sorts of devices, facilitating the work on the care of the vegetable garden, as self-made for the motor-block:

Their drawings can be easily found on the Internet and can be taken as a basis for the future product.

DIY for power tillers

The question of where to start designing attachments for power tillers is quite reasonable. The fact that almost all motor blocks are equipped with trailed devices, factory sample, designed for the use of standard types of equipment. We need to clarify that it is the standard equipment and does not meet the needs of customers. too delicate and fragile trailing systems when used in harsh conditions.

In order to achieve the best result from the use of the plow, you should familiarize yourself with the rules of operation of this attachment. There is nothing difficult in working with such a device.

The sequence of actions when working with the plough the power tiller is as follows:

• To loosen and properly weed row-spacing on the area to be cultivated the blade of the plough should be directed to the left side so that it is positioned flat on the ground;
• for quick and effective removal of high and thick weeds should similarly direct the blade of the device to the left, but the latter should be slightly elevated above the ground;
• to arrange the bed, the blades of the planter should be directed downwards. this will achieve the best result;
• In order to form rollers and quickly fill in the sown seeds, the blades of the planter must always point to the right, and be positioned flat on the ground.

Adhering to these simple recommendations, the novice farmer will be able to achieve the best result, regardless of the model of plow and the capabilities of the used power tiller.

Auxiliary equipment for power tillers

Among the necessary improvements to the motoblock in the form of attachments, it is recommended to make, in addition to all of the above, the following elements:

For the designs of wheels used as propulsion for the tiller of the power tiller, wheels with rubber tires are used. How to make wheels for a tiller with trailing tines yourself will be suggested by experience and ability to work with ready-made structures, for example, with steel discs from autowheels.

Angle is cut into segments of 35-40 cm. The rims of the disk are marked into equal segments. It is best if there are 8 or 10 of them. Marks are made and the corners are welded at the marks.

Elevator with his own hands for a power tiller is better to make from a piece of pipe with a diameter of 100 mm. The elevator itself is made in the form of a roller on a bracket. It changes its position when required and makes it possible to lift the single-axle tractor onto the support. The bucket is rigidly mounted to the frame of the power tiller in a metal sheet metal 1.5 to 2 mm thick; The lift-shaft is normally at the front of the machine and is used as a carrier roller when traversing ditches and potholes.

A bucket for a power tiller with your own hands is recommended to assemble in the event that you plan to use it as a snowplow.

• made of sheet metal 1.5-2 mm thick;
• rigid plastic with a knife at the bottom of the metal strip;
• of 8-10 mm plywood or 10-12 mm OSB.

The bucket is rigidly fixed to the frame of the power tiller. To facilitate the work, a rotating device can be made to change the angle of the cutting plane to the road surface.

Bucket is supported on a skid-mounted bracket at the front for long service life. This makes it safer to clean. The cutting surface will be at a certain height above the ground and will not touch the ground.

It is possible to improve the home motor technology for your requirements without great expense. After all, you can assemble the attachments on a single-axle tractor by yourself, making everything with your own hands.

Designing the unit with their own hands

Despite the fact that the cheapest are units of Chinese production, the reliability of which is extremely questionable.

Assembling a homemade power tiller with your own hands. a profitable option. The required costs, with most spare parts, which are usually always available in private households, will be minimal, and the quality is not worse than the factory.

Necessary accessories

Before starting the work on the assembly, you should determine what the rated power will be at the homemade motorblock. The best option. to use as a donor of spare parts motorcycle Izh Planeta 5 or a powerful chainsaw, for example, “Ural”. But you can use any similar engines.

To assemble a homemade power tiller, you will need:

• drawings;
• welding machine;
• set of tools;
• steel pipes;
• car wheels or sheet metal;
• donor (motorcycle or chainsaw).

In the process of the work will require additional parts to connect the engine and frame. Attachments can use factory equipment or also make their own from improvised means.

Making a frame

Since in each case, the design of the unit may differ depending on the parts and engine used, before starting the assembly, you need to make a work plan and make the necessary construction drawings, based on the manual of the factory motoblock.

The general principles and order of operations in the manufacture of the supporting structure are as follows:

• Metal pipes are connected in the form of two spars with bent up edges.
• A motorcycle handlebar is welded to these edges. It will be used to control the tiller.
• Transverse steel reinforcements are welded to the side members. They will support the transmission and engine.
• A metal plate is welded at the rear edge of the structure, on which the battery will be mounted.

You can also use a prefabricated motorcycle frame, modifying it a bit. You need to remove the front fork and all the parts that prevent the installation of new equipment. Fixing for a hitch should be welded on the back of the plate.

With this option is usually immediately installed wheels from the car, adding to the construction of the axle from a solid round bar.

Creating the power section

Regardless of whether a motorcycle engine is installed on a single-axle tractor, from a scooter or chainsaw, they must all have active air cooling. To make starting easier, modify the fuel system by replacing the fuel valve with a paddle valve.

Muffler used motorcycle muffler or make it yourself from a pipe with a diameter of 70 mm. For this purpose it is necessary to cut off a small part of it about 25 cm long, fill it with sawdust and shavings. The exit hole has to be narrowed in half.

The muffler must be positioned so as to keep all of the exhaust gases away from the operator. For the engine, a separate steel structure is assembled from 42 mm diameter pipes. It should look like a skid with brackets and bolt holes to fix it to the main frame.

Main assemblies

In addition to the wheels, engine and frame, the multifunctional single-axle tractor must be equipped with additional units, without which it is impossible to perform a number of basic tasks, and its use will be limited to simple transportation of goods.

The transmission adjuster is an element of the transmission that makes it possible to operate the machine at its lowest speed. The factory models have a travel reducer, so this must also be done on the homemade power tiller. Whether planting or harvesting, sowing or plowing. the power unit needs maximum capacity at the lowest rpm. It is impossible to achieve such an effect without installing this assembly.

The gearbox is the mechanism that ensures the transmission of engine torque to the individual components that drive the single-axle tractor. It is installed between the machine wheels and the engine.

When working with some optional equipment, the torque is transmitted directly to it. If a drill, cutter, snowplow or crawler is installed, the gearbox starts to work directly with them. without the appropriate experience and knowledge do not try to assemble and install this assembly by yourself: it is better to buy it in a store or remove it from old equipment.

Attachment

A single-axle tractor is a multifunctional unit and, in addition to cultivating the land, it is actively used for landscaping, cargo transportation and grass mowing. With the bracket mounted on the rear of the frame, the following devices can be attached: plow, harrow, rake, tiller, digger, bulldozer blade, rollers, brushes, and other devices.

Many models, including homemade ones, are equipped only with a steering wheel. A person in this case goes behind the power tiller in the process of performing work. However, if necessary, you can make an adapter, which will allow you to drive the machine sitting down.

For the adapter will need:

At the end of a rectangular tube, 1.7 m long and 6 cm wide and 4 cm high, you need to weld a half-meter tube, on which the wheel posts will be. The height of these stands from the mount to the center of the axle is 35 cm. Seat can be of any design, but should not exceed the size of 45×45 cm.

Homemade trailer

The trailer can be made in several ways and with different materials. As a rule, homemade structures are made of metal frame and wood.

• Make a driver, consisting of a drawbar and a swivel body. Connect with the frame so that the hinge is inside the tubular body.
• Make the frame according to the pre-drawn drawings from 60 mm diameter pipe. Trim with wood or metal sheeting.
• Use a solid metal axle to install the car wheels on the structure.
• Make a driver’s seat out of wood.

Make the rear wall of the trailer hinged to facilitate loading and unloading. Metal reinforcements are welded on the sides. The trailer is painted and connected to the power tiller.