How to make a table for a circular saw with your own hands
Making a table for a circular saw with your own hands. instructions and assembly
Circular saw. a convenient and productive tool for construction work, with high performance and maneuverability. But when sawing large batches of lumber, it is quite difficult to work with a powerful circular saw. This task can be greatly facilitated by a table for circular saw, made by your own hands.
Table for a circular saw with their own hands
An uncomplicated table can be made of plywood and planks. Manual circular saw in this case is installed from the bottom of the table top, and its toothed disc is placed in the slot of the table top. The saw blade starts to rotate when the saw is turned on and sawing begins as the saw feeds. the maximum thickness of the cut depends on the size of the circular saw blade and the power of the saw. When selecting the tool, the thickness of the worktop to which the saw is attached from below must be taken into account.
A manual circular saw can be used for this purpose quite normally. The power and diameter of the disk directly depends on what and how much you are going to work. Remember also that attachment to a table steals up to 20 mm of the maximum cutting depth, so single-handed saws with 120 mm blade are of little use for such purposes. Having the circular saw’s depth and angle of cut adjustment features will give you more options for fine machining parts and cutting drawer grooves.
A handheld circular saw can be used for this purpose quite normally. The power and diameter of the blade depend on what and how much you are going to work. Remember also that attachment to the table steals up to 20 mm of the maximum depth of cut, so single-handed saws with a 120 mm blade are of little use for such purposes. The circular’s depth and angle of cut adjustment features will give you more options for fine detailing and box grooving.
“Circular saw from circular saw
Among self-taught carpenters, it is believed that turning a manual circular saw into a machine tool is the easiest method of getting three birds with one stone, namely:
- High cutting quality guaranteed by the high RPM of the saw;
- the shaft mounted in a collector motor on bearings, with honor to withstand the radial load;
- perfect (cantilever) mounting of the disk, it enables relatively quick replacement of the cutting tool, so there is no need to disassemble the circular saw.
The main advantage of making this machine is the “native” motor that guarantees maximum performance thanks to the ideal torque, optimal revolutions. Other advantages of this solution:
- Relatively easy clamping system that lets you remove the saw quickly in case of great need.
- Powerful motor that guarantees a long working life because of its ability to withstand considerable stresses.
- Normal thermal regime, which is guaranteed by the forced ventilation of this hand tool.
- Sufficient cutting depths can be obtained using large-diameter blades. 60 to 75 mm. a value that gives a good chance to produce good quality blanks for different products made at home.
Bed and table top
Modification of a hand saw into a circular machine begins with making a table (or housing-box), on the back side of which the electric hand tool will then be mounted so that a part of the cutting edge protrudes over the surface of the table top.
The shape and size of the table is chosen, focusing on the size of the future lumber. If you plan to make blanks of small size, the length of 1500 mm and width of 600-700 mm will be enough. For the manufacture of the bed of the circular saw is suitable steel angle, which has a shelf width equal to 25-30 mm. The top and bottom of the structure strengthen the struts made from the same angle or rebar. This option is optimal to provide the frame of the machine with maximum rigidity.
For the table top often choose laminated chipboard or OSB, some masters stop at plywood, the thickness of this material. 15-20 mm, but you can take a thinner material, and then join together 2 sheets. The elements composing the table top do not necessarily have to be of the same size, have a symmetrical location relative to the bed. The main thing is that the construction is not in danger of toppling.
A notch is made in the worktop, designed for extending the blade. The part of the table surface that will be adjacent to the cutting tool is often covered with tin, metal sheet (aluminum, steel), textolite or plastic. This solution makes moving the lumber as easy as possible.
Modification of saw control
You can only do this type of work if the tool’s warranty period has expired. For ease of control of the circular saw, the contacts of the button and the knob (lever) are derived at the external electrical switch, which is attached to the body in a convenient location, but there where accidental pressing is completely excluded.
If the owner foresees the possibility of periodically removing hand tools in the future, the contacts are fixed with electrical tape or clamp. In this case the cord of the circular saw is plugged in the carrying case equipped with the push-button.
it is necessary for precise cutting of material of different width, therefore, this ruler (stop) must be able to move parallel to the cutting edge. Such an element is also made of steel angle. Slots are made in the tabletop, in which the ends of the rail are fixed with screws.
A simpler option. a pine board. Its width. 40 mm, its length. 200 mm more than the table. First, nuts are pressed into the lower part of the protruding edges, and L-shaped hooks are fixed with screws. After placing the board on the worktop of the circular saw, they are tightened with screws, thanks to them the hooks are lifted and the ruler is securely fastened. Just as easy to move it anywhere.
You can make a circulating table with your own hands from a variety of materials. The most common are considered:
Each individual option has its own advantages. Laminated chipboard, plywood and fibreboard are easy and simple to work with. In addition, these lumber is characterized by an affordable cost. But products made of wood have higher durability and technical characteristics.
Attention: before proceeding to the assembly of the product, all of its wooden elements are treated with antiseptic compositions.
Drawing and dimensions
Before you start working, it is recommended to make a drawing of the product. On it indicate all the dimensions, materials of manufacture and other important information. Make a quality drawing of any furniture piece with the help of special computer programs.
Making a drawing of the table, be sure to take into account the size of the circular saw. Each brand of tool will have a specific size.
If you like to leave materials on the table during the work process, then the dimensions of the table top should be at least 120 by 120 cm.
The process of assembling a table for a circular saw
First, adjust the base to the optimal size. Wooden table top is treated and left to soak in an antiseptic compound for 24 hours. The metal base is ground around the edges to make sure there are no jagged edges.
Wood preservative is a modern building material that protects wood of all species in structures.
The process of assembling the table for the electric saw:
- First the squared timbers are prepared and smoothed using a planer. They are used to assemble a sturdy frame. Drill a 5 mm hole in each side of the base.
- Holes of the same diameter are also made in the side members.
- Place the legs and uprights on the table top. To ensure fixation, it is recommended to take clamps. They will help fix the legs while the glue is drying. They are additionally fixed with metal corners, tighten with self-tapping screws.
- Fastening of the saw with M4 bolts. The process is performed on the back side.
- To make the parallel stop, two strips of plywood are sawn off. Their width must be identical to the tabletop width. The average size. 10 cm. The corners must be rounded and ground.
Important! When installing the electric saw, the start button must be secured.
For this purpose a wire, which is put through the hole in the handle and twisted in the right position, is suitable.
For a manual saw you need a sheet of plywood of 20 mm. Worktop blanks are made according to the chosen size. The marks are made with a pencil, and the sawing is performed with an electric jigsaw. At the end performs milling edge. The workpiece is necessarily sanded with sandpaper.
Care should be taken about its stability. No loosening is allowed, otherwise it will negatively affect safety.
- The header is turned over, on the underside is made a marking for the hand saw. It is necessary to put a saw without a disk to the base and make a marking of the dimensions of the sole.
- Using a hand-held router, a 10-mm indentation is made.
- Then the saw is tried on, and the marks are corrected.
- On the underside make a marking, which is intended for the stiffeners. For them, blanks are prepared from a board with a size of 50×100 mm. Optimal place. up to 10 cm from the table edge.
- The longitudinal ribs are sawn, attached to the tabletop with joinery glue. Use clamps for fixation. Using a similar principle, we fix the lateral U-bars stiffeners.
- After the glue dries, drill holes in the stiffeners and fasten them with self-tapping screws.
- For the legs of the table boards 50x100mm are used. Average optimal height up to 110 cm. The feet are fastened to the outside of the stiffening ribs with sturdy bolts. To improve stability, you can use bars ties in the size of 50×50 mm.
The circular saw blade is inserted into the prepared slot on the underside, the sole is bolted in place. The toothed disc is inserted into the slot. Following the technology and completing all the steps, you can make a homemade table with minimal cost to fit your height.
Regularly check the position of the table and its strength. The construction must be sturdy and firm, without any loosening.
A few words on the electronics
Circular saw. electric special equipment, working from 220 V power supply. If the user has sufficient knowledge and skill in electronics, he is able to bypass the start and pause buttons of the saw, and then move them to a convenient location (usually the outside of the 1st rib).
If the model seems difficult, you need to pull the trigger with a wire, and turn on the special equipment with a power cord. But this method is bad in that it prevents the rapid shutdown of the device in an emergency situation.
Self-made table under the saw is not as difficult a task as it may seem. In case you have a good material at hand, its characteristics are chosen correctly, and the power of the device ranges from 500 to 1000 W, the above instructions will be the basis of work.
It should not be overlooked that at any stage of the production of the table you should control the accuracy of your own operations. Otherwise, if there are dimensional deviations or if the legs are deformed when you tie the ribs, it will be very difficult to regain stability. Nevertheless, making a circular saw table with your own hands is an absolutely realistic task for a few hours.
Choosing the dimensions
Size of the saw table depends on the workshop size. The small room area allows the use of a tabletop 50 x 50 cm. Making a smaller sawing table does not make sense. it would be hard to use when working with long pieces. universal size for comfortable sawing Laminated chipboard 80 x 80 cm.
For safety reasons it is advisable to place the saw in the middle of the table top at least 25 cm from the edge. this is what results in a minimum width of 500 mm. The location of the saw blade also depends on how exactly it will be used. There are a total of three varieties of construction:
Depth and location of the disk installation depends on the workpieces to be processed on the machine. It must protrude 50-80 mm above the tabletop for boards and plywood, 110-125 mm for logs. the height of the upper part of the frame made of plywood or Laminated chipboard can be between 35-40 cm. If you make the frame only from a bar, this parameter depends on the section. The remaining part of the structure is represented by wooden legs, the size of which masters usually choose for their height. Total height of saw table is about 1,0-1,1 m, but can be reduced up to 900 mm.
How to Fasten a Manual Circular Saw to a Table
How to make your own round table with your own hands according to the pictures
Manual circular saw. it is a powerful tool with high productivity. One of the major advantages of circular maneuverability becomes a disadvantage when large volumes of wood must be seen. To simplify the process, you can easily assemble a circular saw table.
The design of the table for a manual circular saw is so simple that most craftsmen make it without prior drawings and diagrams. This is a strong workbench consisting of wood and plywood. The most reliable table bases are made of metal. They are the heaviest and require skill as a welder. That’s why the supports are most often made from lumber waste. A circular saw is attached under the tabletop, the blade protrudes through it through a specially made slot. The wood moves across the table top and is sawed with a rotating disc. For convenience and accuracy of work, the table is equipped with additional devices: an angle stop and a longitudinal stop.
The work surface “eats up” part of the work surface of the disk, the depth of cut will be reduced by the thickness of the table top. Therefore, it is advisable to choose a circular saw with the maximum diameter of the disc, and the top of the table is thin, but rigid.
If you haven’t bought the saw yet, choose models with high power (1200W or more). They will handle cutting large amounts of wood. Holes will be drilled in the sole for mounting: the cast base may crack. Therefore, it is advisable to choose a tool with a stamped sole.
Choice of materials
To make a good position for a manual circular saw, remember carpentry skills, enough patience and a small amount of materials:
- Laminated plywood 15. 20 mm;
- Beams 50 x 50;
- external socket;
- A piece of electrical cable;
- PVA glue;
- varnish on the wood (if the plywood is not laminated);
- self-tapping screws.
The size of the tabletop will depend on the area of the workshop. However, on a table that is too small, it will be inconvenient to see long segments of. If the part is fully stacked. the cut is smoother and more accurate. The height of the legs is chosen according to the height of the craftsman.
For a small workshop it is convenient to use a table design with approximate dimensions of 50 x 50 x 25 cm.
Production process of the table
- From a sheet of laminated plywood we cut the tabletop to the required size. Marking is applied to the bottom plane using a metal ruler and a pencil. We cut the plywood with an electric jigsaw, if necessary the edges are milled. If the plywood is not laminated, we clean the table surface with sandpaper.
- We turn and from the bottom make a mark to fix the hand circular. To do this, remove the disk from the tool and set its sole in the right place. We mark on the table top and the bottom for the fasteners and the groove for the saw blade. Drill holes for the bolts. They will be twisted at the top, across the top of the table, and at the bottom to hold the nuts. So on the side worktopThe countersinks of the holes and the bolt caps are ground so that they do not protrude.
- If you plan to cut the material at different angles, the slot under the saw blade is made in the form of an inverted trapezoid. A normal groove is made for smooth sawing. Before you cut the slot and holes for the fasteners, attach the saw, adjust the marks and then cut.
- Pencil. Stiffener placement. They are made of board and set at the bottom 8-9 cm from the edge of the tabletop. We will attach the legs of the table to the ribs. The ribs are fixed with screws at 15-25 cm intervals, additionally glued with PVA. Screws screwed from the top through the table top, heads fully recessed. The ribs are fastened together with long self-tapping screws.
- The legs of the table are made of bar or board, they will be 100 to 113 cm long. Greater stability will be provided by the legs slightly diverging from the bottom. They are mounted on large bolts, twisted on the outside, fastened on the inside with nuts. The bar ties will further strengthen the frame.
- To adjust the height of the table, the nuts are attached from below, into which the bolts M14 are screwed.
- Now you can fix the saw from below by passing the disk into the prepared slot.
- We attach the electrical connector to the inside of the table, allow the wire from it to pass through, and install the switch in a convenient location (on the outside of the stiffener). The power from the socket will come from the switchboard. From it, we will extend the wire to the nearest power source in the workshop. Using a coupler, we will lock the ON-OFF button on the body of the circular saw in the recessed position.
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Installing a handheld circular saw and jigsaw in the table. Quick, easy, not expensive.). Part1
Easy to make. Quick installation of the jigsaw and circular saw
The millionth table for manual circular saw
I present my work for the judgment of the esteemed public. table
For a manual circular saw. I would be glad to hear.
Let’s start making auxiliary stops. For the longitudinal stop, you will need an aluminum tube with a square section 0 and two screws with lug nuts.
- Cut a piece of pipe to the length of the table top, cut holes for screws 3 cm from the edge.
- From pieces of plywood we cut two clamps. The design is ready.
- For sawing across the table we make a sledge out of plywood. They are aligned with the edges of the table, pressed and moved along the serrated circle. At the point where the wheel passes in the sled, we cut a slot. Small parts can be stacked directly in the skids and sawed.
The dust is removed from under the table, but most of the dust in this case is dispersed from above, so it is a good idea to supplement the device with an upper dust separator.
Working on the circular saw is very dangerous, so care must be taken to protect your fingers. From a piece of board or furniture board, cut a pusher.
READ Adjusting the idle speed of the Partner saw
Additions to the construction
This design can be supplemented with a riving knife to be removed. On it put a disk protector, which cuts off the flow of shavings flying directly into the carpenter.
Circular machine, as close as possible to the factory models, requires a competent approach to the assembly, so before making a circular saw of the stationary type, it is necessary to think through everything to the smallest detail. Basically, the table mini circular saw differs from the stationary one in the height of the frame, which directly depends on the nature of the work to be performed and the size of the workpieces that the device will process. One-time work can be carried out on a compact table saw, and the circular from a manual circular saw can be easily hidden in a shed or closet, and the carpenter, who constantly conducts manipulations with lumber, will need a stationary self-made circular. Below is a diagram, which details all the elements and devices for a circular saw of this type.
As can be seen from the figure, homemade circular saws of this type have a clear design, and drawings like the one presented above, greatly facilitate the process of their assembly. Before you make a circular saw, as well as mount the circular table with their own hands, consider each part of the unit separately, so you know all the subtleties of its work and installation.
Table for circular saw
The table for a manual circular saw with a slot in the center is sometimes remade from an ordinary kitchen table or assembled from planks or metal profiles. Professionals strongly recommend to cover the circular saw table with a sheet of galvanized metal, because without coverage the base is at risk of abrasion in the center from the constant friction of the lumber, which in turn will negatively affect the quality of the kerf, and the depth of cut will be uneven. Cross ties that strengthen the sawing table, it is better to make from 60. 80 mm steel angle with a horizontal segment outward in order to simplify the installation of the side limiter. Self-made table, on which the circular saw will be set, must be strong and stable, as well as it needs to be firmly fixed in a stationary position.
Circular saw blade
Toothed disc must be raised above the table surface of the circular saw by a maximum of one third of its diameter, otherwise it will not cut wood properly, and the process itself will become dangerous. If you need to cut a bar with a diameter of, for example, 100 mm, the similar parameter torch should not exceed 350 mm, but the engine is required to power from 1 kW. For workpieces over 150mm in diameter, a handmade mini circular saw is unlikely to be suitable. Some factory-made circular saws have a riving knife that is mounted behind the blade at a distance of 2. 3 mm from the saw’s teeth. It excludes jamming moment because of clamping of sawed workpieces, that’s why it can be rather useful in case of assembling a home-made circular saw.
Adjustable side stop
You can put a quality stop from a steel angle of about 80 mm, which is 3. 4 cm longer than the table. The flat sides of the bend are bent down, so that their width was by 1,5 cm more than the table thickness. After installation the stop is fixed to the homemade circular saw table in a given position with screws. Adjustment of this element is carried out according to the template placed between it and the torch.
Shaft installed on the circular is the most critical component, so it must be milled and tested together with the disc by a specialist on special equipment. Product made of a pipe with a carelessly fixed the circle is excluded at once, because the slightest error in the work of this element will turn into major troubles such as equipment failure, damage to the workpiece and personal injury to the operator. The optimal solution would be to buy ready-made shaft with a seating place for the cutter. It is better to give preference to self-aligning ball bearings, which have a curved shape of the inner surface, otherwise the homemade unit will quickly collapse and the shaft, installed on the homemade circular saw, will fall into disrepair.
In our case, the ideal choice would be the V-belt drive, but it is better to refuse from the gear rigid mechanism, as such a self-made device does not guarantee safety. If you suddenly find a nail in the lumber, the motor rotor will provoke the destruction of the disk, which can lead to injury. If the internal diameter of the belt pulleys is small, then slippage will be provided, and the tensioned belt will serve as a kind of damper. Gear ratio is usually selected based on engine RPM and always considering the allowable RPM of the disc. The smaller the diameter of the saw blade, the higher the rotational speed can be and the cleaner the remodeled unit will cut.
Among homemade devices, the most popular is the circular saw, assembled from the motor from a washing machine.This choice is based on the fact that its pattern of operation is best suited for this purpose. In contrast to the collector units, which are usually supplied with power tools, the engine from a washing machine works at less high speed, which means that it shows a longer work, has a higher efficiency and is not so subject to all kinds of clogging. You can also use a three-phase motor, but then there will be additional costs for the purchase of starting and working capacitor, so it is more economical to make do with a device from a washing machine. Here, in general, are all the intricacies.
Determining the parameters of the handmade circular saw at home
The primary task. to choose the power of the future stationary circular saw. Usually for home use, devices with a capacity of up to 850 watts are recommended. If you are not going to do repair work, but rather to build, for example, a sauna or summer house, so that you need to saw a lot of material, you can use the 1250 W motor. The device with a higher rate is not recommended, because such powerful circular saws require not only a solid stand-table, but also fixing the latter to the floor by fixing or concreting.
The cutting depth is an important characteristic. In home devices it should not exceed 8 cm. This is actually quite sufficient for sawing boards, plywood or wood boards.
When making your own hands a mini-circular or a full-scale sawing design, be sure to take into account the frequency of rotation. If you intend simply to cut boards for making certain wooden elements, you can be limited to a motor with a low or medium frequency. If a perfectly smooth and clean cut is wanted, a high-speed motor is better suited. A speed of 4,500 rpm is considered optimal for a home power tool.
A washing machine motor can be used for the circular saw.
Be sure to consider the height at which the trigger will be located. The place of its placement should be convenient to press.
Please note! The control panel of homemade circular saw must be accessible.
Amount of finished material, sawing price
The yield of useful material from softwoods and hardwoods differs in percentages. For lumber obtained from coniferous trees are characterized by the following indicators:
- provided that the operation is carried out by a professional and a circular saw is used, the percentage of finished wood will be the highest (80-85%);
- edged material, which the machines give an average of 55-70%;
- Unedged board when working with a chainsaw leaves up to 30% of waste.
Figures are given without taking into account the finished scrap wood, the amount of which can reach 30%. However, such material goes for products that allow a certain defect.
Finished wood products after sawing
Deciduous round timber yields 60% of finished unedged timber and about 40% of edged timber. This is due to the initial curvature of the logs. It is possible to increase the quantity of the obtained production: for this purpose timber processing machines of various orientation are required. A certain kind of device can increase the amount of lumber by 10-20%. For one cubic meter of sawn timber you will need about 10 cubic meters of hardwood round timber. The price for the installation of additional equipment will pay for a cubic meter of boards.
Short instructions for work
In addition to what you need to make a sawmill, it should also work properly, and for this it is important to know a brief instruction.
It is best to install a vise on the base with which to clamp the log. Then a marking should be made on the skids and the sawmill. The machine starts up smoothly and slowly begins to approach the log. The chainsaw bar in this case must be exactly in the center of the kerf marking.
It is very important not to make any jerking movements during work, as this can cause the tire to stop.