How to Make Downhill Angle Grinder

Immediately I would like to warn the reader that to make the necessary descent, if you are new to this business, then the first time it may not work. But no need to be upset. In many specialized forums, masters with experience directly write just that: only work and work. Following all the tips, once to the tenth. fifteenth, something should already be obtained.

Knife with a flat descent.

In this article we will try to collect, as far as we can, some useful information for the correct sharpening of descents. So be patient, study the material and go! In fact, there is no ideal solution for absolutely all options, the descent on the blade can be performed only for specific tasks. A middle ground can be achieved, but such conflicting parameters as the thickness of the blade and the thickness of the blade will not give the knife ideal parameters.

To understand the cutting procedure, you need to consider this process more carefully. The cutting edge cuts the material, and then the descent goes to work, which with its qualities, pushes the material to be cut. Accordingly, the thinner the descent, the faster the cut. But due to this, the strength of the blade suffers, and vice versa. If the descent is more massive, then the strength of the blade increases, but the cut in speed is already reduced. We hope that we have succeeded in explaining the principle of knife action during cutting.

Accordingly, when creating a blade, you need to sacrifice something, but again, you need to know why you are making it. The descent itself is a rather important element of the knife, it has already become clear that its characteristics change due to its thickness.

How to Make Downhill Angle Grinder

The main forms and characteristics of descents on homemade knives

Beginners, as a rule, having a workpiece and all the necessary tools, can not decide which descent is most versatile. At least for a kitchen knife. But do not worry, there are some of the most common types of descents that we will now consider:

  1. The most common, and is done from the butt, it is wedge-shaped. He finds application, as a rule, in the kitchen.
  2. Another fairly popular species. also wedge-shaped, comes from the butt and goes into the cutting edge. But if you drag it, it will automatically go into view number 1, during sharpening a cutting edge will be formed separately from the descent. Or sharpen the entire descent, which is quite problematic.
  3. Quite a characteristic form for many knives. The blade is flat and the descent starts from the middle or slightly higher towards the butt. Sharpening lends itself quite easily.
  4. A very interesting option, and quite often used wedge-shaped descents and cutting edge, the knife is strong enough and the cut is good. The descents and the edge are very harmoniously located.
  5. The cutting edge forms a double wedge. The slopes are wedge-shaped, but the material between them and the cutting edge is removed. It cuts dense materials very well, but is difficult to sharpen, it can be said for professionals.
  6. Lenticular concave descents. The cutting edge is, as it were, a continuation of the boundary between the blade and the bevel to the tip. They can begin almost from the butt. The second name of sharpening is “razor”, it is used for dangerous razors.
  7. One-sided sharpening acquired the name. chisel. Sharpening is quite simple. A knife can be wielded with only one hand. In this case, the bevel should be from the side of the working hand.
  8. The shape resembles number 3 descent, but there are none as such, a straight blade and a cutting edge at once. suitable for chopping products.
  9. Convex lenticular slopes, smoothly passing into the cutting edge. The name has two “bullet” sharpening and “lively”. It’s hard to cut with a blade, it gets stuck in the material, but it has excellent chopping characteristics. It is difficult to manufacture, also an option for professionals.

The main forms of slopes on knives.

To begin with, you can try on any unnecessary blank, make descents No. 1 and No. 3. They are simpler than the rest and will find application in your home, as an option in the kitchen. And having filled your hand, you can proceed to more complex varieties of sharpening.

How to make a descent on a knife angle grinder

The topic is rather scrupulous, and frankly, ambiguous. The whole problem is that if you are new to this issue, all the "hard-burned" masters recommend that you start doing it only manually and nothing else. The Internet is full of various devices for sharpening the correct descent. Various craftsmen make them with their own hands, and demonstrate how to use them. But real masters are all as one, they say that first you need to learn how to "feel" the metal.

Of course, no one denies that these devices will save time, but for a beginner they will only serve as a hindrance.

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And in order to achieve the best cut, you need to achieve harmony between the cutting edge and the downs. But in this case, we will analyze the option for more or less professional craftsmen how to make downhills on a knife with the help of angle grinders or just an “angle grinder”.

Video: How to Make Downhill Angle Grinder


Removing descents using an angle grinder.

Preparatory stage

One of the most important points for work is to collect all the necessary items, closer so that you do not then run around the workshop and look for the right tool. Check the readiness of angle grinders, and most importantly do not forget about safety. The seemingly harmless “angle grinder” can do so many troubles that it doesn’t seem enough. In addition to it you will need:

  • the blank itself of the future blade itself;
  • “Angle grinder”, they already talked about it, preferably with a speed switch, and it should not be very bulky;
  • a vise firmly fixed to the workbench;
  • template of the future cardboard knife;
  • screw clamp;
  • metal corner;
  • bucket with water.

The main tool of work will be the angle grinder, add a few words about it. Choose its small size, a maximum of 125 drives, otherwise you will just be physically very tired, keeping it on weight. It’s not worth chasing power, 1000 W is more than enough. All work is carried out with goggles and gloves. Have you prepared? Let’s go further.

Expert Advice

Quite useful tips not to make mistakes while working. They again relate to our main tool. It has long been noticed that to cut a workpiece from metal according to the drawing from the template, it is necessary to use only a circle of abrasive, a thickness of at least 7 cm. If you use a trimmed disk, the metal often overheats, splits and small grooves appear. Peeling circles behave quite dignified, especially of the “untwisted” brands, and their price is low.

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A simple tool for lowering knives.

Having gradually learned how to use peeling circles, it will be possible to switch to cutting wheels, but their thickness should not be less than 2 mm. The disadvantages of a thin cutting disc include the fact that under lateral loads it starts to vibrate. As a result, the entire instrument walks with a “shaker”. Which can lead to destruction of the disc and cause various injuries. And as practice shows, newcomers who did not listen to this advice will sooner or later return to peeling circles anyway.

Blank cutting

Having familiarized yourself with useful tips, you need to continue to work. Cutting the blank looks pretty straightforward, given the above tips:

  1. From the cardboard template, you need to transfer the sketch to the metal from which the blade will be cut.
  2. The next step will be directly cutting the workpiece, this must be done clearly in accordance with the line of the template. And one very delicate feature: at this stage, butts are not cut. This is due to the fact that during grinding there may be problems, the tip of the blade can turn out with “heaped” edges. Experts say that this part of the blade is the most problematic.
  3. Direct drawing of the lines of the butt, this should be done not with a thick line, but clearly visible.
  4. The metal corner that has been cooked is clamped in a vice, and an already cut blank is pressed against it with a clamp.

A small addition to paragraph 4, experienced craftsmen advise using two clamps to clamp the tip of the knife. If it is one, then it is necessary to gradually move it to the place of processing, and the blade-blank must be pressed very tightly to the corner. The place of processing should be turned to the master.

Chamfering

After all the preparatory work, you can start cutting the chamfer. Why it is needed, it will become clear further. The abrasive wheel is positioned so that it is strictly perpendicular to the workpiece. If roughness is present on the workpiece, then we will not deviate from the original position. You don’t need to apply much effort, but rather try to touch a little, remove a small chamfer along the blade along the cutting edge. A very important point, you must maintain a distance of 0.2 mm from the line to the middle of the knife.

Making a chamfer knife.

You need to do everything slowly and carefully. We move the angle grinder along the entire length of the cutting edge. At the same time, do not forget to cool the part by pouring plenty of water. Overheating threatens spoiled billet. The chamfer is removed for the convenience of future manipulations, this will be a clearly visible border that cannot be reached. It must be removed along the entire cutting edge.

Descent work

After finishing work with a chamfer in the Republic of Kazakhstan, you can start working directly with the descent. The direction of movement of the stone will be in the direction of the butt, to the outlined line. It is not difficult to control the process, do not forget to draw the start of the descent near the heel of the blade. Smoothly leading the angle grinder left and right with a pitch of 15-20 mm, we gradually peel off the surface. The main thing is to control that the stone is perpendicular to the cutting edge. Do not forget to cool the workpiece. When viewed from above, the stone will be rotated vertically to the plane of the knife. Do not deviate from the set parameters, otherwise the disk may stand on the edge and this can become a considerable headache for the master in the future. But due to the fact that the blade is processed step by step, it will not work out to spoil it with one wrong movement. Pressure on the “angle grinder” is not necessary, its weight, as a rule, is enough for normal handling of the descent.

How to make emery descents

A grinder is also quite often used to take down descents. The machine consists of an electric motor and a grindstone. The principle is pretty simple. Many lovers of the manufacture of knives often use special tools for the exact angle of descent. There are no special secrets with such a person. It is necessary to hold the workpiece strictly perpendicular to the axis of rotation of the grindstone. And again, do not forget to cool the future blade. Various devices are made for such a holding of the blade.

The conclusion of the descent on the ebony.

For example, one option. An iron plate is used as a platform on which the workpiece will lie. So that she does not slip, she is pressed to the corner. This whole structure is held by a clamp and is located strictly perpendicular to the stone. And if you need to change the angle, you just have to move the clamp and that’s it. And the blank itself will need to be slowly driven along the circle according to the given angle.

Some craftsmen use the "angle grinder" as a draft, and then on such a machine brought to the ideal.

Handmade

So we got to the most interesting. About manual sharpening, the conversation rose at the very beginning, it is worth returning to it, since it really, is very necessary for the most beginning masters. As already mentioned above, this magical and debilitating action is needed to understand steel itself. You need to feel it. You need to shed a hundred pots to learn how to do it manually. This procedure is done with files, and, in the end, it “catches up” with grindstones of different grain sizes.

How much do you need to grind? You will answer this question yourself when you sharpen a dozen other blanks. And if you are not lazy and do it manually. you will be called a true master of their craft.

Yes, sometimes you should resort to special mechanical "assistants" in exceptional cases. Feel the steel by hand, can be called. "aerobatics." over, the blade will always feel the warmth of your hands, and perhaps you will put a piece of your soul into it.