How to make wheels on a cultivator

How to make and put wheels on a cultivator?

Modernization of the walk-behind tractor is necessary in the following cases:

  • to improve the quality of plowing with low wheel pressure;
  • rubber tires are not suitable for plowing, which wear out quickly;
  • an increase in the chassis;
  • creating a new modification.

For self-production of transport elements for a motor-cultivator, two or four wheels from popular Soviet cars are suitable.

The manufacturing process includes the following steps:

  • we fix the axle shaft inside the transport element;
  • in order for it to be removable, we weld a tube with a diameter of 30 mm to a metal plate;
  • we make holes in the plate (no more than 10 mm) for the guides on the car rims;
  • using a drill, we make a through hole in the tube (under the cotter pin);
  • we put the tube perpendicular to the plate and fasten it along the side parts, welding it;
  • then we screw the axle shaft to the wheel, securing it with a cotter pin.

Thus, it will not be difficult to install the wheels on the cultivator, as well as to remove them. To do this, you just need to unscrew a few fasteners. The last action implies the presence of a special set of devices (screwdriver, key and jack).

  • unnecessary car wheels;
  • “Corner” of steel for making “hooks”;
  • dense squares of steel;
  • bolts;
  • traction or metal wheels are perfect for creating lugs.
  • we take as a basis old disks from a car without rubber;
  • we attach the semi-axles to them with a welding machine;
  • we start making “hooks”;
  • we take the corners of steel and adjust their size using an “angle grinder” (their size prevails over the rim of the disc);
  • fasten to the rim (at a distance of 15 cm each);
  • in the final stage, we fix them with the help of “teeth”.

Types of wheels for a motor cultivator. How to choose them?

The cultivator itself is a mechanical structure used in household plots to facilitate agricultural work. In order for special equipment to perform its tasks 100%, all parts must be serviceable, especially movement elements. The latter are divided into the following types:

  • supporting;
  • rubber;
  • traction;
  • metal with grousers;
  • paired.

In a standard situation, the design of the cultivator is equipped with one wheel (support), which takes the main load on itself. This part of the unit is “responsible” for endurance and optimization during operation. There is an opinion that when performing some “land” work, the front wheel should be removed.

When choosing wheels for an inter-row cultivator, take note of the following information.


  • Traction and pneumatic wheels are renowned for their versatility and unique tread pattern. They are often called “Christmas tree” in everyday life. They are large (more than 20 cm wide and 40 cm in diameter). The wheels allow the walk-behind tractor to move easily both on the road and on sticky soil. The impressive dimensions of the wheels make it possible to use the unit for plowing over large areas. Traction wheels are also perfect for a snow blower or a trolley. Rubber’s amazing strength is popular for its durability.
  • Transport elements made of metal with lugs are heavier. Steel “teeth” push the cultivator forward and prevent it from “drowning” in viscous clay.
  • Rubber (solid) ones are installed not only on cultivators, but also on small tractors. They have a “rolling” property and are widely used in wooded (difficult to pass) terrain.
  • Paired ones consist of 2 elements of the same size and shape. This design significantly increases the power of the unit and increases its speed. They have excellent surface contact and are easy to create at home. They also imply the possibility of prompt removal of elements of the external plan.

Sometimes the basic configuration of the wheels “fails”, and these elements must be done independently.

How to choose and install wheels for a cultivator?

The cultivator is the “main helper” for farmers and amateur gardeners on land plots. The maneuverability and maneuverability of the unit directly depends on the quality and correct installation of the wheels. It will not be difficult to select and change the transport elements on the cultivator. The main thing is to take into account the peculiarities of their types.

Additional constructions

For the cultivator, it will be possible to build both transport elements and additional frame parts. Thus, the unit “transforms” into a small tractor. In this type, the cultivator can be used as an all-terrain vehicle. In this case, the wheels of the standard type with low pressure are removed and replaced with lugs (large size).

To learn how to make lugs for a cultivator with your own hands, see the next video.

How to make a simple garden cultivator

And again a cultivator that haunts the gambling gardener. The same cultivator that is being improved by every amateur gardener according to their needs and for new technological processes for independently grown crops.

Our cultivator differs structurally from its counterparts and is a little versatile in its application, or rather, multifunctional when cultivating the soil on grown crops. In fact, it turned out to be a multifunctional device suitable for tillage both in the aisles and in rows.

With such a cultivator, you can weed between rows of corner knives and a flat-cut knife, with loosening with a ripper knife. Corner knives can work in the very row of the planted crop, for which it is enough to swap them and establish a safe distance between the knife and the cultivated crop.

See also  How To Make A Motorcycle Dog Out Of A Tiller

Homemade attachments can be installed at any height and with any grip angle: it all depends on how deep the soil needs to be cultivated. So, if the discs are turned 180 ° relative to each other and fixed so that their edges close in front, it is easy to cut a furrow 5 7 cm deep and plant tubers or seeds in it. Then unfold the discs and the furrow in one pass of the unit will be backfilled.

Corner knives make it easy to work the soil between plants in a row. Corner knives can be turned with the blades towards each other for ordinary weeding, with the blades outward. for inter-row processing, or you can put a flat-cut knife, a ripper knife for weeding between rows of planted crops.

The weight of the cultivator is 5.2 kg and even a 9 year old child can easily cope with it. As we walk with a calm step, the cultivator ‘walks’ ahead.

The depth of tillage depends on its condition and on the height of the installed knife. Treatment depends on the type of weeds and the level of their roots in the soil. It is possible to weed the same area with one treatment at a depth

3 cm, then increase the depth by another 2.3 cm, thereby cutting the young roots of the weeds and loosen the soil.

If you install the tillering discs. then you can quickly spud the plants with the ultivator. This is especially convenient if young seedlings need to be quickly sprinkled with earth so that they do not suffer from frost. On average, two hundred square meters of corn are processed in 30-40 minutes. It takes 40-60 minutes for young potatoes of the same area.

make, wheels, cultivator

Any young culture is treated superficially, so as not to damage its upper, still weak roots. As the planted crop begins to grow stronger, deep cultivation is carried out, in which the surface roots of the crop and the weeds themselves are cut off. Corner knives stimulate plants to grow roots deep into the soil, where there is enough moisture and optimal temperature. Plants with straight and deep roots can be cultivated according to soil conditions.

A special feature of the cultivator is that tools from our other self-made structures can be installed on its supporting frame, for which mounted implements were made with the same fasteners.

The cultivator is assembled on a welded joint. The ends of the wheel axles are threaded for nuts. Holes for cotter pins are drilled at the ends of the disc holder racks.

Cultivator design.

The base frame is the main part of the design of this cultivator. In our case, we made it from a section of a profile pipe with a square cross section of 30 mm x 30 mm and a length of 30 cm. Amateur craftsmen can make it from a piece of ordinary water pipe, and this is not as important as maintaining the parallelism of the through holes for attachments of the attachment.

Nuts with M10x1.5 thread are welded to the ends of the pipe on one axis along the holes. At a distance of 2.5 cm from each nut, through transverse holes with a diameter that are slightly larger than the diameter of the stand-holder of the attachment are drilled in the pipe. The support frame is welded to the support wheel stands and the steering wheel stand.

Support wheels with a diameter of 30 cm, this is the minimum safe height for processing plants, the entire structure is installed each on its own separate axle, with the wheel hub fixing on the axle with nuts through a washer. The wheels are separated by a distance, in our case, the distance is 25 cm, determined by the width of the safe track, that is, the distance at which the roots of the cultivated crop and the crop itself will not be damaged when the wheels move.

The axle point of each wheel is 31 cm away from the base frame, that is, it is located at a distance not less than its diameter, which ensures good stability of the cultivator during soil cultivation and easy maneuvering with a knife or discs when hilling.

We made wheels from construction reinforcement, as we needed wheels with the lowest ground resistance. A variant of another design may differ in the use of ready-made wheels of any technique, but one condition when choosing must be preserved. this is the width of the support of the outer rim of the wheel.

Wide wheels behave worse on loose ground than narrow ones. Wheels should sink a little into loose soil and move the knife or discs steadily in a given direction.

The radius of each wheel is determined by the safe processing height of plants, which are not damaged when the cultivator passes over the cultivated crop and is within 15 cm.

The distance between the wheels exactly matches the distance between the fastening points of the rack-holders on the base frame and is equal to 25cm.

Of course, the wheels could be used ready-made, from any technology, but it was important for us to keep the width of the support of the outer rim of the wheel.

The cultivator can cultivate the soil both along the row of the planted crop, and between its rows. Attachments are installed at different heights, which determines the depth of soil cultivation. Individual attachments can also be installed at different angles.

As a hinged tool, we used flat-cut knives, a ripper knife, and hillers. Each knife and separate attachment tool has its own stands for installation in the cultivator frame.

The holder stands are very durable. These are pieces of round metal rods cut from the frame of a Soviet-era baby carriage. The stands of all instruments have a length of 25 cm and a diameter of 10 mm, and their material is quite suitable for our intended use. The knife may break and the rack will be intact.

There was even a case when a knife cut into the root of a sawn tree and broke, but the rack remained intact. I worked further on one rack until they noticed that the knife floats on dense ground and does not cut the soil layer by layer.

See also  How to Make a Hole In a Wall Puncher

How to make a wheel hoe

  • Each knife has its own stand-holder, which has a length of 25 cm. In the lower edge of the rack, an internal longitudinal cut was made with a depth of 20 mm and a width equal to the thickness of the strip of the fastening knife. The connection is reinforced with welding, and in some places with kerchiefs.
  • The flat-cut corner knife is attached to the stand with its tail, which is inserted into the cut of the stand and reinforced with a weld.
  • The flat-cut knife and the ripper knife are fastened with a welded joint through the strip sections, which are inserted into the cuts of the racks and are also reinforced with a welded seam.

Hilling discs are attached to the same holders as the flat-cut knives.

The entire tool is fixed in the holes of the supporting frame and tightly fixed with a bolt screwed into the nuts that are on the ends of the frame. The bolt rests against the post, which is inserted into a through hole in the supporting frame. The tightness of the strut depends on the clamping force of the bolt in the nut. The stronger the better. The stand itself and the tool itself can be freely adjusted in height and angle, which determines the location of the knife or disc in space.

That is, the stand-holder and the working tool can always be adjusted in height and tilt, rotated along the plane, changing the angle of capture of the corner knife or the angle of attack of the disks-tillers.

The corner flat-cut knife is made according to the Fokin flat-cutter principle, but it is fixed to the fastening stand with a weld. The blades of all knives are made from the torsion bar of the front suspension of a ZAZ car, so the width of the blade and its thickness were predetermined by the dimensions of the torsion bar. But in principle, you can use any material that has sufficient rigidity and elasticity. The thickness of the knife should not exceed 3-4 mm, and the optimal width is 1.5-2.5 cm.

  • On a blank strip of the required length, on one side, 5 cm from the edge, mark the transverse line for the future fold. Then, at an angle of 45 ° to this mowing line, through its middle we draw another line for the future bend.
  • Fixing most of the workpiece strip in a vise so that the vise jaws are 1-2 mm lower than the drawn mowing line at 45 °.
  • With a gas torch, blowtorch or other method, heat the strip red hot along this mowing line and bend it at an angle of 90 °. We do the same with the second workpiece. We do not harden.

If our metal is hardened, then with changing loads during soil cultivation, it can easily break, as it becomes brittle. The knives themselves are floating, and when large roots of grass, hemp, pebbles come across in its path, the knife bends slightly along the plane. At your discretion, you can heat another metal, but not until full hardening.

The knives are sharpened along the long side with a sharpening angle of 30-40 °. Thus, the cutting angle of the knife turned out to be equal to 45 °.

Such a knife is best suited for weeding with loosening, for aeration, removing weeds with ‘creeping’ roots. In cases where you need to quickly drain the soil from excess moisture and for aeration of plant roots.

A wide flat-cut knife is assembled from two identical strip segments connected to each other at an angle of 60 ° butt-welded. This tool has a 120 ° infeed angle. We use it for ordinary weeding, preparing the soil before planting, weeding in the hot season, when a large amount of moisture evaporates from the soil after loosening.

The flat cutter does not overturn the top layer and does not expose the wet levels, protecting the soil from moisture loss.

The ripper knife is assembled from the same lengths of strips and in the same way, end to end, but the planes of each strip are turned by 30 ° to the surface of the treated area. The total plunge angle of such a knife is 90 °. The angle of attack of the knife depends on the height of the worker, under which the height of the tool in the clamps is adjusted. The higher the growth of the worker. the lower the fixed tool.

Hilling discs have a diameter of 17 cm and are cut from a flat steel sheet with a thickness of 3 mm. The outer edge of the discs is not even, but has cutouts and small protruding segmented teeth, due to which, during soil cultivation, the discs rotate, clinging to the ground with their teeth, and do not drag like a plow. Rotating discs throw trapped soil into or away from the workspace.

Hilling discs are mounted on the same holders as the flat-cut knives. but through bushings mounted on a part of the rack bent at an angle of 90 °. Each disc on the rack is secured with two washers on both sides of the hub and a cotter pin inserted into a hole at the very edge of the curved portion of the rack.

How to make homemade wheels for a uniaxial tractor

In order to improve the performance of miniature household agricultural equipment, a rational option is to make homemade wheels on a single-axle tractor. The treads on the tires, the size of the wheels, the cross-country ability, the weight of the factory equipment are not suitable for full-fledged processing of heavy soil in private plots and high-quality cultivation of vegetable gardens. Replacing wheelsets or making them heavier significantly improves the performance of a small tractor used for various purposes.

Three-wheeled models

On small agricultural tractors for cultivating a summer cottage with three wheels, the front element performs the function of following a given trajectory. The rear wheelset is supplied with torque from the engine of the unit. In most models, the front undercarriage is made of a larger diameter.

See also  Which vacuum cleaner is better Thomas or Bosch

To design wheel replacement on a single-axle small tractor, use the recommendations:

  • calculate the same rim and tire radius as provided by the factory. Placing a smaller or larger wheel in diameter will make the mechanisms work incorrectly;
  • make identical wheel elements. Replacing with wheels with different tread patterns or different weights will complicate the use of a mini tractor.
make, wheels, cultivator

When making a drawing with your own hands, take as a basis the model designed by the manufacturer. Consider the full radius of the elements. You can design a disc with a smaller diameter, but install thick rubber on it, and vice versa.

Four-wheel option

Agricultural small tractors on four wheels are a miniature of a similar vehicle without a cab. The configuration of the models allows the user to move around on the walk-behind tractor.

To upgrade the factory configuration, you can replace only the drive pair or replace all discs. Choose one of the options to improve the performance of your home farm equipment:

  • equipping factory tires with additional treads;
  • setting on wheels of new rubber with a textured pattern;
  • installation of wheelsets of different radii on the axle. larger under the mechanisms, smaller under the driven part;
  • mounting wheels from the car.

Four-wheeled motoblocks are classified as heavyweight models. A number of machines are configured with non-removable wheel elements. Before reworking the minitractor, make a drawing according to which you plan to improve.

With one drive wheel

One-wheel cultivators are devices in the form of a wheel element in a tire with a pronounced tread. The speed of work and the coefficient of efficiency when performing farm work depends on the permeability of the disc.

When preparing a drawing for replacing a drive wheel, use the recommendations:

  • select the diameter of the wheel element, the same as in the factory;
  • choose materials with a lot of weight when making your own wheel;
  • replace the rubber with a more textured and wider one.

a single-axle tractor on one wheel is controlled by manual manipulation. It will be easier for you to drive a structure with a wide wheel and strong tread.

On one wheel pair

Two-wheel motor-cultivators are equipped with one axle with a pair of wheel elements. The platform with the motor installed is operated by the user using the handles. Setting a passable wheelset will solve the problem with:

  • slippage;
  • slipping;
  • filling with earth a little pronounced tread pattern;
  • poor handling;
  • insufficient plowing depth, etc.

Draw a sketch of one element on paper yourself or complete the drawing in a computer program. In the figure, indicate the diameter of the disc, the location of the holes for the axis, fastenings, their dimensions.

Types of wheels for farm walk-behind tractors

For home appliances for processing a summer cottage, a different set of chassis is provided. It depends on the type of work performed and the conditions of use of the minitraut. Manufacturers install wheel structures on walk-behind tractors, which are distinguished by shape, material, weight.

Most factory motor-cultivators in the process of operation quickly wear out rubber, deform wheels, and are lightweight. Plowing a field, clearing snow, mowing grass, planting and picking vegetables can be done with poor quality.

Alloy wheels

Manufacturers of suburban farm mini-equipment offer models on solid wheel elements, which are made from durable polymer compounds. Motoblocks on rubber cast disks are used to work on rocky soils, stone surfaces, compacted soils.

Solid elements are installed on large farm equipment. To replace cast wheels, similar designs are used. For the manufacture of parts with their own hands, they use thick sheet material, cut out circles of the same radius that were installed at the factory. When converting, make calculations and careful selection for the front wheelset or drive disc, as they perform the main shock-absorbing function.

Country trailers and farm machinery of medium weight (up to 120 kg) are equipped with cast rubber wheels. They also require replacement if worn out during operation. Before making homemade parts, make a detailed design drawing. Take the standard factory configuration as a basis, increase the width of the rim, select a durable material.


Instructions for making wheels for a uniaxial tractor

Follow a clear algorithm to make wheels for miniature farm equipment. Replacement of wheel elements is required if the factory equipment does not allow for high-quality agrotechnical activities or for cleaning the site. Also, the undercarriage is changed as a result of heavy wear of parts.

The step-by-step instructions are based on the algorithm for making homemade wheels instead of factory traction elements with a herringbone tread pattern. The standard equipment has the following disadvantages:

  • the mini tractor is lightweight, as a result of which it produces shallow plowing, hilling, slips on a wet surface;
  • a single-axle tractor moves around a summer cottage at a low speed;
  • the wheel rim has a small width;
  • rubber on the undercarriage wears out up to 70-80% after 1-2 seasons;
  • the tread pattern is clogged with particles of the substrate, adhesion to the soil disappears;
  • easily deformed, rubber cracks when overloaded.

Replacing wheels from the manufacturer with self-made structures or setting weighting agents will solve these problems.

Making weighting agents with your own hands

To solve the problem of shallow plowing depth, hilling or slipping of the unit on clayey soils, the installation of weighting agents to the wheels will help. Parts of brake pads are used as weighting elements.

Weight your single axle tractor as follows:

  • clean the brake discs from rust;
  • screw the weights through the factory holes to the hub plates;
  • tighten fasteners.

Remove and install homemade weights as needed when performing various farming activities. Another option for making small farm equipment heavier is to weld plates made of thick sheet steel or cast iron to the wheels.