How to properly make a circular table. What is needed to create

DIY amateur sawing table

Good afternoon to all! In the course of discussing one of my reviews, in the Комментарии и мнения владельцев, participants were asked to do a review of the sawing table I work on. In this review, I will tell you how quickly I made a sawing table, from what was, plus some bought for small things. Detailed SketchUp model of the table, with all elements and components, attached to the review.

I’ve been thinking about a sawing table for a long time, but there was a huge number of other things to do, and it was, of course, postponed until better times. Then, when last year I had a more or less calm winter, I came across a series of videos on home-made sawing tables and realized that this is what it is time to do.

In so many video reviews the tables are made so seriously, and even always against the background of a fully equipped workshops with a bunch of machines, that sometimes you look at their working conditions and doubt whether to take. In this review I will tell you how I made a table in fairly Spartan conditions, with a circular saw, angle grinder, screwdriver and milling machine (just here was the first time tested the milling machine, which was lying in a box for three years).

I had a manual circular saw Hitachi C6SS, a cheap, but as it turned out, very reliable machine, that survived and performed on the construction site so much work that it should be placed on a pedestal, and in a prominent place in the workshop. But since any tool has to work until the end, she was offered a new position.

After the main part of the house construction, I had a whole sheet of 21 mm plywood (FC 4/4), which had been sitting alone for 3 years, and it was time to put it to use somewhere. At that time I did not make a separate project for the table, the whole idea and the vision I had in my head, so I did it on the spot, and the main components and materials were chosen during implementation, running my eyes over what was in the closet, in the workshop, in the drawers with hardware and fasteners and other small items. Accordingly, I did not do any modeling, but for this review I have already transferred the desktop in a 3D model in SketchUp, tried to present all the components, the only thing I did not draw the nuts and screws, it was lazy, and I already thought more time wasted, because already in principle it is clear and, if anything, I will explain in the course of the review. The model shows how and what is assembled, you can remove the enlarged elements layer by layer, perhaps someone will find this model useful for repetition or as an idea for their realization.

And so, I took a sheet of plywood of 21 mm, marked and sawed out with circular saw the base of the table with the dimensions 1100 mm х 820 mm The dimensions of the table are big, but I wanted a universal table, on which I can saw small parts and large-sized sheet materials, plywood, laminated wood chipboard for cabinet furniture.

Then I turned the obtained sheet, marked it, put the circular saw with a raised disk on the sheet, outlined the contour of the saw’s sole with a pencil, and using a router with a slot cutter I selected material in the obtained projection of the sole to the depth of about 12 mm. The circular saw blade is then inserted into the obtained recess. Beforehand we take off the handle and the blade guard.

Along the contour of the saw sole in the sheet of the table base I made 4 holes for M8 bolts. From the top of the base (back) we put the M8 whisker nuts. The saw sole is set into the recess and pressed through the reinforced washers with bolts M8 to the table base plate.

Then we loosen the depth adjustment mechanism of the saw, plug the saw into the socket and, pressing the saw, saw through the base of the table to its full depth, from the back (working) side of the table we have a disk. Here the most important point. when installing the saw into the recess not to mix up its direction, in what direction should the disk rotate (disk from the side of the table working surface should rotate on itself), I while trying on, almost mixed up, well in time noticed. By the way, in the model in Sketchup I used the saw from 3D Warehouse and if you look at the photo of my table, the saw drives in the SketchUp model (Makita) and in real life (Hitachi) are mirror-like, located on opposite sides of the saw. I found only such model of the saw, and it left, the main thing is the correct direction of the disk rotation. Everyone has different saws anyway.

Already in this form on the table you can saw:. place the base of the table on chairs / stools / drawers (I positioned in the workshop with one side on a shelf of a rack, the other on the back of a chair by the wall);. relative to the saw blade, using a long ruler, draw an axial line for the trimmer of the cut.To solve this problem I should take a long aluminum angle (or a bar, or a flat board), place it relatively to the cutting line, fix it to the table with clamps and you have an improvised temporary parallel stop.

That way I further sawed all the other parts of the table, while he slowly assembled.

The first thing I decided to do was to cut out the saw’s skin for dedusting. For the first time in my life I was able to instantly, without fitting, get completely identical parts, like twin brothers. The casing. four walls of 10 mm plywood, the bottom of a piece of fiberboard. We glued everything with PVA and self-tapping screws.

To connect the vacuum cleaner, I made a hole in the bottom corner of the box with a bimetal drill under the 50 mm sewer fitting. To attach the fitting to the body, I cut the cut of the fitting into sectors, inserted the fitting, heated the sectors and bent them to the wall of the box, then on each sector went small self-tapping screws, gaps on the back side filled with hot melt glue. It is very strong, and a careless movement of the vacuum cleaner hose will not rip the fitting out of the casing.

Pros and cons of a home-built table for a circular saw

The table for the circular saw can be made by yourself, taking into account personal needs and preferences. It will be the most comfortable in use. The table can be made in different sizes, heights.

There are models not only of manual type, but also with the possibility of fixation on the table.

Several major advantages can be identified:

The disadvantages of a homemade table for a circular saw include the time cost. The master will need to study the schemes, drawings, prepare materials, qualitatively perform processing.

Selection of material

To make a circular table with your own hands, you need to remember carpentry skills, have a lot of patience and a small number of materials and tools.

The volume of the table top will depend on the workshop area. At the same time, it will be uncomfortable to saw large sections on a small table. If the part fits completely on the working plane, the cut is made more even and neater. Select the height of the legs, depending on the height of the master.

Materials

How to make a machine under the circular saw with his own hands? The first thing to do is to choose the materials.

Tabletop

The key requirement for the tabletop is considered resistance to high loads, vibrations and shocks. It is important that the surface is smooth enough and does not bend under the weight of 50 kg. Optimal materials include the following:

It is not necessary to make a tabletop of plastic, chipboard, OSB. These raw materials are considered to be resistant to vibration. The use of natural wood is acceptable. But in this case the construction will turn out very expensive.

Stand

On the base of the table you can install wooden planks. They are recommended to be fixed under the lid in order to increase the rigidity. It is best to use planks made of hard wood such as beech or oak. They are notable for their low cost and ease of fixing with self-tapping screws.

Motor

Specialists advise the use of a motor of no more than 1000-1200 watts. Otherwise the use of the device can be dangerous. In addition, a powerful saw requires a heavier and more resilient table.

Spin gear

It is acceptable to use a belt drive for the structure. In this case, the rotation is transmitted to the drive shaft by means of a V-belt. Pulleys on the machine can match. That is why the speed of rotation of the shaft will be the same as that of the engine.

Sawing table

Ordered a sawing table from my grandfatherMakita MLT100.But the end of the year was not particularly easy goat year, that explains a lot.The constant moneyhunger got me thinking, and am I really ready to give away 380 for the sawing table?I don’t think I’m ready right now.In general, the crisis is good While an official in the sweat of his face thinking about the people, about how to buy the latest model Maybach and a new gold toilet bowl in his palace, the people turn their heads and remember that they have handsBut it’s up to you someone will pull those hands to the bottle, and someone will do business.

I’m not ready for a bottle yetbut I’m ready for a woodblower.And I decided to remake my “sawing table” five years ago which was made in desperate need, as much as 20 minutes from a piece of postforming Made in haste to make life easier, of course, turned out to be very handy and small and over the years postorming dried out and hung, which no longer gives a precise cut.

This time I wanted to do it cheapfastbut considering my needs.Went to the store and bought laminated chipboard (yes, this kind of thing is not correct to do wood chipboard but, the reality is that the moisture-resistant plywood I could not find and admittedly, in Minsk, I do not see her in the eyes never).Took two pieces of 600h800h16 and 300h800h16.I bought an aluminum angle 20h40h2000 and channel 10h10h2000 (alas 10h15h2000 I could not find).Took 40 screws, two metal rulers for 500mm.

So to business.Plate 600×800 became the base. Normal, handy size.I cut the 300×800 board into 50×800 lamellas.I used them to make a skirting which added rigidity.I assembled everything with Kleiberit PUR 501.

Realizing that a circular saw without a “broach” is mostly bullshitI knew exactly what a “broach” I needed!Milled a cavity in the channel floor and glued it with Soudal Fix All Classic.

Too bad the channel is a 10not a 15well that’s itI’ll find it, maybe I’ll redo it.Then I milled tracks for the ruler.

I cut the rulers to size, precisely positioned them on the disk and glued them with Soudal.

And then I took hold of the parallel stop.I had no desire to squeeze every time with screws, so I decided to make the stop on the factory sawing machines.The base of the aluminum angle 20×40.Its stiffness is not that much, so I reinforced it with a wooden plank, glued them with fix all-.To the back of the guide riveted a corner 20×20 This will position the stop perpendicular to the table.But I decided to make a fuss with the mount.To realize the idea, I needed a piece of aluminum.

Where to get a piece of aluminum?Sawing off the disk )

Got the old clamp I didn’t need borrowed the parts I needed from it.

Parallel stop was fastened to the clamp with two bolts with anaerobic glue.

It turned out very convenient not much worse than factory quick-release clips.

Then there are the little thingsinstalling the socket, wiring, switch. The button in the saw is fixed.

All this works in conjunction with a vacuum cleaner with an autopower.I forgot to take a picture of the broach carriagebut it’s pretty clear.Circular saw is now on the basis of the 160th disk it is certainly not enough.The thickness of the kerf is now 37mm.

I’ll probably buy and install another circular saw in a month based on a 210 or 235 blade.It will definitely be a circular saw with a riving knife.If I put a circular saw with 210-235 blade, then I will surely assemble a soft start module for the saw.

Of course, it’s the economy optionthe need is compelling.And it does not fully replace the factory productespecially when it comes to sawing at angles.My tabletop has two positions at 90 and 45 degrees.As a rule, this is enough.Excluding the circular saw that was in the householdthe cost of all materials (without glue) was 30even including a 235-disc saw, the cost of such a machine will not exceed 160which is exactly half the price, a factory table like Bosch or Makita.

Necessary materials

You need to know beforehand what materials you will need for the construction.

Tabletop

The tabletop is one of the main parts of the construction. This is where the sawing work will be done. It is recommended to make the tabletop from a solid piece of wood. Its surface must be perfectly flat. It is not allowed to have bumps on it, as this will adversely affect the quality of the sawing.

Bed

Bed. the base, which is responsible for the stability of the entire structure. It is recommended to make it from metal sheets or dense wood. If wood is used, it is better to choose only sheet species. They are considered to be of the highest quality and durable.

Necessary tools and materials

First, the material for the work surface of the table is selected. Most often it is plywood or laminated chipboard, or other varieties of wood material. They require additional treatment after installation to protect them from moisture and subsequent damage. Some craftsmen also use metal, such a table will be stronger and more reliable. But it is not advisable to use plastics, they are not suitable for such purposes.

So, to build a homemade table for a circular saw, you will need:

• Material for the working surface. If wood is used, carpenters recommend taking a version that is 20 mm thick or thicker.
• The timber for the structure of the frame. Wood is used in most cases. You need to prepare 5 pieces of wood.
• Wooden dowels for fixing. It is better to take with a reserve, they are inexpensive.
• Metal fasteners. At least 4 pcs.
• Metal angle bars. 10 pcs.
• Self-tapping screws.

All materials should be purchased in advance and left at the place of work, so as not to run to the store unnecessarily later.

Of course, you can’t make a table with your bare hands. Ideally, you should have the following set of tools:

• For measuring and drawing (tape measure, ruler, simple pencil, marker).
• For sawing (electric jigsaw).
• For woodworking (router, planer, grinder, fine grit sandpaper).
• For fixing (drill, electric screwdriver).

The basic criteria of the circular saw table

The design on which the woodworking mechanisms will be installed must have these characteristics:

• Great rigidity and stability.
• Perfectly flat surface.
• Grounding.
• Free space for sawdust.
• Easy accessibility to waste for disposal.
• Protective shields that are mounted over the rotating elements.

Compliance with the above rules, will help to make a really high-quality and safe table for the cutter with their own hands.

There are several circular saw requirements that must be considered for quality, productive and safe operation of the unit.

Good saw blade attachment. 2. Enclosure of the working part of the saw blade, which many people consider an impossible task. 3. Accessibility of the start/stop button on the unit.

Additional requirements for the table, depending on the carpenter’s preference and professionalism in this area. Auxiliary elements will help more accurately process workpieces, make sawing of longer boards, which will eventually affect the capabilities of the machine to perform absolutely accurate, high-quality and complex products.

Adjustable stop for lengthwise sawing

It is much easier to cut the wood if you have a lengthwise stop. It can be made of an ordinary aluminum ledge or other lightweight profile with a perfectly straight edge and stiffening ribs. You need a length of the table, i.e. 800 mm.

At 150 cm from the edges make two 8 mm holes and insert a bolt M8, with the thread orientation downwards. Screw on nut without washer and tighten securely. At the same distance from the edges of the table draw two lines. At their intersection with the centerline of the table top drill 12 mm holes. One more hole is drilled on the same lines with an indent of 30 cm. Using a router or a jigsaw, make two thin slots, it is desirable to make the undercut as evenly as possible.

The profile stop is bolted into these slots and can be tightened with wing nuts and a wide washer on the inside after adjustment. If the width of cutting needs to change frequently, equip the body of the table with door hinges for easy opening. To make stop adjustments faster, fasten tape scraps from a tape measure to the ends of the table.