How to prune an orange tree at home

Temperature

For the successful development of the orange, as well as the uniform growth of shoots and leaves, it is necessary to maintain the temperature not lower than 16 ° С and not higher than 28 ° С. In order for a homemade orange to bloom, and fruit ovaries to appear, during the growing season, you need to maintain a temperature not exceeding 17 ° C. As a rule, this time occurs in early. mid-spring. In the winter period of dormancy, the plant is comfortable at a temperature of 12-14 ° C.

Important! If the room temperature exceeds these indicators, then it is better to take the orange out to a closed balcony, closet or other suitable room.

Lighting

An orange tree needs a lot of light. It is not for nothing that it is called simply “sun fruit”. It would be best to install the pot near a window facing east or west. In this case, the orange will receive the necessary diffused light.

If it is not possible to install a plant on the east or west side, then you can use the south or north window, but at the same time observe additional measures. Direct sunlight can cause burns to the tree, so the light must be shaded and diffused. On the north side, on the other hand, additional lighting may be required.

Top dressing

You need to feed and fertilize the plant at least once every 15-20 days. In order for a room orange to develop better, grow new shoots, form buds and fruits, it must be fertilized with minerals and organic fertilizers. Complex preparations are suitable, for example, phytosporin, rotted plants, ash, sleeping coffee or tea.

Bloom

Orange flowers are white or pale pink in color. They have long, narrow petals, in the center, pronounced stamens and a pistil. Bud formation begins in early spring. The flower can last 3-4 weeks in an unopened state. Then it opens for several days and can form a fruit ovary.

prune, orange, tree, home

In order for the orange tree to bear fruit, then during the growing season you need to take more care of the plant. In addition to timely watering and humidification of the air, the orange must be provided with a suitable temperature of 17 ° C and enhanced feeding with nutrients.

Transfer

For proper growth and development, the orange must be transplanted into larger containers annually. The diameter of the pot must be increased by 2-3 cm each time. The optimal time to transplant an orange is early spring. It is at this time that he secretes juice that can strengthen all parts. For the correct transplantation of the plant, so as not to cause harm, it is necessary to carefully move the tree into a new pot together with an earthen lump in which the roots are located.

How an orange settled at home

The first description of orange trees is found in China, dated to about 2500 BC. During the Renaissance, this plant first appeared in Europe and quickly gained popularity. The rampant fashion for this citrus fruit led to the invention of greenhouses. covered, fully or partially glass rooms intended for the cultivation of orange trees.

However, not everyone who wanted to grow oranges had the opportunity to build a building from expensive materials. It was then that they tried to sprout an orange at home. In addition, this method was perfect for residents of northern European countries, for example, England and Sweden. Since then, several varieties of orange trees have been bred, which successfully grow and bear fruit in closed, poorly lit rooms. Also, these varieties are endowed with increased resistance to frost and stress.

Great pruning tips for your citrus tree

Note! The Washington orange variety was bred in the middle of the 18th century. and is the most popular among amateur florists. It grows in height no more than 120 cm.

Healing properties

Distinguish the beneficial properties of the orange tree and its fruits separately, although they do not contradict each other, but rather complement.

The tree has a strong trunk, thick bark and abundant crown. The dense leathery leaves are filled with essential oils. Thanks to this, they purify the air in the room, give a subtle delicate aroma. The phytoncides that the tree emits into the environment are capable of destroying pathogenic bacteria and improving sleep. Therefore, growing an orange tree at home is the prevention of colds and viral diseases for the whole family.

The fruits of the plant have a lot of useful substances that are capable not only of preventive measures, but also of the treatment of various diseases. The most important component of an orange is vitamin C, slightly less vitamins of groups A, B, E. Also, the fruit contains minerals, sugars, pectins, essential oils and citric acid.

Note! Since oranges are a strong allergen, they should be used with caution by people prone to allergies. For pregnant and lactating women, people with stomach or intestinal ulcers, it is best to eliminate the fruit from the diet. Also, taking precautions, oranges should be consumed by people with diabetes, since the fruits contain a large amount of sugar.

Juicy orange fruits loved by many

Watering and sprinkling citrus

  • The plant must be regularly watered with warm, settled water when the top layer of the soil is covered with a crust and dries up. But there should not be excessive moisture either, otherwise it can lead to decay of the roots. In winter, watering should be reduced to 2-3 times a week.
  • Do not forget about spraying. In the heat, it must be produced daily, since the plant is very fond of the humid air around. In cool weather, the frequency of procedures is reduced to 1-2 times a week. If the air in the home is very dry, then you need to spray it daily.

Orange tree: growing and caring at home

The orange tree will delight its owner not only with its attractive appearance, but also with sweet citrus fruits. This “green pet” is somewhat capricious, but if you study this material, you can create the necessary conditions for it. Consider how to grow an orange tree at home so that it gives you real natural fruits.

Transplanting and feeding a plant

It is better to transplant citrus fruits in the spring, until flowering and fruiting have begun. This procedure must be performed every 2-3 years.

  • An orange tree in a pot should feel free, so it is necessary to select a container that is slightly larger than the previous one;
  • The transplant is done using the transshipment method to eliminate the risk of root damage;
  • The soil mixture should consist of sod and leafy soil, sand and humus in a ratio of 2: 1: 1: 1, and the bottom of the container should have good drainage.

General description and popular types of orange tree

In total, about 600 varieties of oranges are known. Here are the most popular ones that are suitable for indoor culture:

  • “Gamlin”. reaches a height of 1.5 m. Fruits ripening in late autumn have a pleasant sweet and sour taste;
  • “Pavlovsky” is a low-growing variety (it grows up to 1 m). Differs in good fruiting, but oranges ripen for a rather long time. about 9 months;
  • “Washington Navel”. is the most popular among lovers of indoor flora. It can be up to 2 m in height. In the process of flowering, each orange tree flower of this variety exudes a pleasant sweetish aroma. Differs in rather large fruits weighing about 300 grams.

Reproduction of indoor orange

The orange tree at home can be propagated in three ways: by seeds, cuttings and grafting. The simplest method is seed propagation. Instances raised in this way require much less maintenance. But young fruits will differ significantly from the original ones.

How to grow an orange tree from seed:

  • We buy a special soil for citrus fruits or make a mixture ourselves from turf, peat and sand in a ratio of 2: 1: 1, respectively;
  • First, extract the seeds from a highly ripe orange. They must be of the correct shape, not damaged, not dry and empty;
  • We clean them from the remnants of pulp, rinse thoroughly and soak in water for 10-12 hours;
  • We plant the seeds to a depth of 1 cm in a small container (about 100 ml), observing a 5 cm gap between the seeds. You can also plant in one box;
  • Lightly water the soil, cover the container with foil and remove the mini-greenhouse in a dark place until the first shoots appear. After they reach 1.5-2 cm and 2 leaves “hatch” on them, we transplant into small separate pots with a diameter of about 8 cm.

It is better not to choose large containers, since the soil, in which there are no roots, remains wet for a long time and is subject to acidification. An indoor orange tree can be additionally illuminated with special phyto-lamps, as if increasing the duration of daylight hours.

Homemade orange can also be propagated by cuttings. This allows you to preserve all parental characteristics.

  • To obtain a cutting, cut off a 10-centimeter twig with bark with a sharpened knife;
  • We plant it in sandy soil and create a mini-greenhouse, covering the container with a film;
  • We install the container in a bright place, where direct sunlight does not fall. The soil should always be slightly moistened;
  • After about a month, the cuttings take root, and they can be planted in separate containers.

Another way to propagate an orange tree is by grafting. This is the best option for the fastest harvest. It is best to take the graft from an already fruiting plant, carefully cutting off the stalk with a sharpened knife. It is recommended to vaccinate a specimen that has reached the age of three years. The graft must contain 3 buds.

  • We cut the crown of the tree at a height of 10 cm from the soil, split the trunk and place the cutting in it;
  • We combine two branches and wrap the vaccination site with foil;
  • To preserve moisture, cover the plant with a film and leave it in a bright place.
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After 3 weeks, you need to look at the condition of the cutting. If it has not turned black, then the grafting procedure was successful.

Pruning: The Secret to Beautiful Lemon, Lime, and Orange Trees in Containers

Lighting and temperature for indoor orange

  • This plant is light-loving, so the best place for its location will be windows from the south and southeast. So that the leaves do not suffer from sunburn, it is necessary to create a slight shade for them, but the brightness of the lighting should not change at the same time.
  • The citrus tree is very fond of warmth. The optimal summer temperature for its growth is 21-25 degrees. If the specified values ​​are exceeded, the “green pet” will begin to grow actively, but will not bear fruit. Suitable winter temperature for a tree is 10-15 degrees.
  • It also does not withstand the effects of drafts.

Conditions for growing an orange at home

For a plant to have a healthy appearance, not suffer from pests and give a bountiful harvest, you need to know how to care for an orange tree correctly.

Formation of the crown of an orange tree

In order for the “green pet” to bear fruit, you need to carefully monitor the condition of its crown. If this is not done, then fruiting will begin no earlier than 10 years later. Fruits appear on branches not lower than the fifth order.

  • Correct formation of the crown consists in pinching the branches when they reach 10-15 cm. This should be done above the bud so that it remains outside;
  • It is also necessary to remove weakened, growing inward and elongated shoots. Pruning like this helps to get many short young shoots.

Orange seed grafting

If you take good care of the tree, it quickly grows and develops. However, not everyone manages to wait for flowering and ovary, and if the fruits do appear, they turn out to be small and bitter. The fact is that oranges grown from the seed may not carry parental characteristics and may simply be wild plants. You can recognize such a wild game already at the age of one by the hard green thorns on the trunk.

  • Carry out the classical grafting of the tree, using the seedling as a rootstock for a varietal cuttings obtained from a fruiting plant.
  • Inoculate an orange by budding by implanting the bud of a cultivated plant with a small layer of bark and wood. For reliability, you can use up to three eyes at the same time, grafting them from different sides of the trunk.

The second method is less laborious and painful for the tree. If the seedling after grafting remains only as a rootstock, it is better to carry out the operation on a tree at the age of 1. 3 years, when the diameter of the stem does not exceed 6 mm.

On an adult orange tree, in the photo, you can graft various citrus crops, since the plant practically does not reject related species.

How To Prune Citrus Trees

How to grow an orange at home from a seed?

  • washed in warm water;
  • soaked for 8-12 hours;
  • planted in loose soil or peat to a depth of 1 cm under the film.

Until the moment of germination, which occurs in a month or a month and a half, the container with seeds remains in a shaded warm place. The mini-greenhouse should be periodically humidified and ventilated. And only after the emergence of sprouts, future orange trees are brought into the world.

Since in countries where oranges grow in nature, trees generously receive both heat and light, you can provide seedlings with the longest daylight hours by planting seeds at the end of winter or in March. But even in this case, young orange trees respond well to the extension of daylight hours with the help of special lamps.

Transplanting an orange at home

The picking of sprouts is carried out at the stage when two true leaves open on the orange, while it is important to take into account that the plant reacts extremely painfully to all manipulations associated with transplantation and possible damage to the root system. It is unacceptable for the root collar of an orange to be underground during transplantation.

The best way to transplant a tree is to transfer the plant along with an earthen lump in spring, until the active growth of shoots begins and buds appear. A home-grown orange will have to be regularly subjected to this procedure, each time choosing a container with a diameter of 1-3 cm larger than the old pot:

  • The growing root system of a young plant once a year requires an expansion of the “living space”.
  • Mature fruit trees are replanted every 2-3 years.

For seedlings with 4–6 leaves, a pot with a diameter of about 10 cm and a soil mixture of two parts of sod land, one part of deciduous humus, the same volume of peat and sand are suitable. Already at the next transshipment, the proportion of sod land in the soil is increased and a small amount of clay is added. An orange tree, which is grown from a stone at home, must be provided with good drainage and a watering regime that does not allow root rot.

Caring for an orange tree at home

In order for the seedling to develop quickly, and after a few years the plant began to bear fruit, it needs to create conditions, as in the Mediterranean and northern Africa, where oranges grow in nature:

  • In summer, the tree can be taken out into the air, protecting it from the scorching sun.
  • In the spring, when bud formation begins and ovaries are expected to form, orange trees need to be kept at 15-18 ° C.
  • In winter, watering is reduced and a warm winter is arranged at temperatures above 12 ° C, not forgetting about the backlighting of the plant.

On transfer from room to room, changes in temperature, humidity and other growing conditions, up to turning the pot, an orange tree, as in the photo, at home can shed its leaves, turn yellow and wither. Therefore, it is advised to rotate the plant so that its shoots grow more evenly, it is advised about 10 ° every 10 days.

An actively growing orange every 7-14 days needs a complex fertilizing with fertilizers for citrus crops or a composition based on 10 liters of water and:

  • 20 grams of ammonium nitrate;
  • 25 grams of superphosphate;
  • 15 grams of potassium salts.

Caring for an orange tree at home means that iron sulfate is added to the top dressing four times a year, and to maintain the rich color of the foliage, the orange is watered monthly with a solution of potassium permanganate.

Orange tree from a stone at home

Optimal growing conditions for an orange at home

Like all inhabitants of the subtropical zone, orange trees do not tolerate drafts, but they love light very much and are demanding on the humidity of the air and soil. With a lack of lighting, citrus fruits can hurt or refuse to bear fruit, so it is better to grow them on the sunny side, but shielding them from burning direct rays, especially in summer. In autumn and winter, when the daylight hours decrease, the orange grown from the seed is highlighted.

The humidity in the room where the tree is located should not be lower than 40%, otherwise the plant begins to quickly shed its leaves and may die. This happens especially often in winter, during the heating season, or when the pot is located close to the heater. In this case, it is necessary to artificially humidify the air, spray the plant and make sure that the soil does not dry out under it.

The danger of drying out the soil exists in the summer, therefore, daily watering, which moisturizes the entire earthen lump, but does not cause stagnation of moisture, is extremely necessary for an orange.

Orange trees at home can die if the water for irrigation contains chlorine. Therefore, they use rainwater, thawed or settled water for at least a day, which is heated to 25-30 ° С.

Forming an orange crown at home

Fruiting of an orange tree at home can begin 6-10 years after the seeds germinate and only if the plant has a properly formed crown. The buds, and then the ovary, in the same plants appears on the developed branches of the fourth order. Therefore, to obtain an early harvest, the formation of the crown begins during the period when the tree reaches a height of 25-30 cm:

  • In spring, the main shoot is pinched at the level of 18-25 cm.
  • Of the side shoots, three or four of the strongest are left, which are cut off, forcing to branch.
  • In the next season, two branches of the second order are left from the increment. They will subsequently give 3 to 5 shoots of the third order.
  • And only then will horizontal fruiting branches begin to develop.
  • Next, they monitor the density of the crown and the timely replacement of branches.

On young trees, the first flowers and ovaries are best removed. The first harvest can be as little as 2-3 oranges, so that the plant does not lose too much strength when they ripen.

You can speed up the tree’s entry into the fruiting season by wintering the orange at a temperature of 2 to 5 ° C, limiting watering and not feeding for three months. When the temperature rises to 15-18 ° C in the room where the oranges grow, buds begin to set and an ovary begins to form. A properly cared-for orange at home can live up to 50-70 years, regularly delighting with the appearance of white flowers and brightly fragrant fruits.

How to grow an orange at home

Exotic lovers can grow an orange at home. Like all citrus fruits, it easily adapts to indoor life; with proper care, it successfully blooms and bears fruit. As a houseplant, the orange is not as popular as the lemon, because it develops more slowly, has more requirements for temperature, humidity and lighting.

The following are guidelines for growing an orange tree at home.

How to keep an orange tree at home in winter?

In winter, home care for an orange has several features. At this time, it is better to keep it at a low, up to 12 ° C, and even approaching 0 ° C, temperature. Cold wintering promotes better fruiting; under these conditions, the plant is less demanding on lighting and even tolerates significant shading. Watering at this time is limited to one or two times a week, feeding is excluded.

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If the tree is kept warm, it must be additionally illuminated in the evening hours and cloudy days. The culture does not tolerate the dry air typical of centrally heated rooms. To increase the humidity, spraying with warm water from a spray bottle is recommended, at least once a day at 12-16 ° C, up to two or three times a day at 20-25 °. In addition, any other methods are used: put a pallet with water or a humidifier next to the pot, hang the central heating battery with a thick cloth or oilcloth.

When keeping an orange tree in winter with artificial lighting and high temperatures, it must be watered more often with warm water, avoiding dryness of the earth, once a month fed with the usual dose of mineral or organic fertilizers.

The subtleties of growing an orange at home

The plant is demanding on light, with a lack of it, the fruits do not ripen, or acquire a sour-bitter taste, and direct sun can cause burns on the leaves. Diffused bright light is optimal, for which the tree is placed on the eastern, western, or near southern windows, in the latter case, protecting it from direct rays with gauze or light cloth.

In the summer, you can take it out into the garden or put it on the balcony, also remembering to shade it. The temperature of the content at this time can be high, however, budding and fruit set occur only at 15. 18 ° С.

The culture does not like waterlogging, which can provoke diseases, but it also does not tolerate overdrying of the soil. In the summer, it is watered 1-2 times a day using warm water. When grown at home, an orange requires high humidity, so it must be sprayed regularly.

During the period of active growth, the tree must be fertilized, the older it is and the longer it has not been transplanted, the higher the fertilizer dose should be. They are fed, after watering, once every 7-10 days, with special fertilizers for citrus fruits, a solution of organic or mineral fertilizers (20 g of ammonium nitrate or ammonium sulfate, 25 g of superphosphate, 15 g of potassium per bucket of water). To preserve the color of the leaves, it is recommended to add potassium permanganate to the top dressing once every 30 days, and ferrous sulfate once every three months.

Formation and pruning of the crown

Pruning is an important element of care, since it is impossible to grow an orange at home without properly forming a crown. Even grafted plants in this case will not bloom and bear fruit.

The formation of the crown begins in the spring, the main stem is shortened to 18-23 cm. Three to four of the most developed lateral shoots form branches of the first order, on each of them two branches are left, constituting the level of the second order. On them, in turn, three to five branches of the third order are formed, where then fruiting shoots of the fourth order are formed.

This completes the formation of the crown, in the future, only the pinching of young shoots is carried out, the removal of thickening branches growing inside the crown, and cutting out of dried old branches. If the pruning is done on time and correctly, then the orange tree at home (see photo below) grows evenly in all directions. There are no long, tall shoots on it, they are pinched and transferred to a horizontal position in time, since it is on the horizontal branches that the crop is formed.

If the plant has bloomed, it is necessary to regulate the number of ovaries to enable it to develop and bear fruit correctly at the same time. At first, no more than 2-3 fruits are left, then, at 4-5 years of age. 6-7, and then up to 10 fruits.

How to plant an orange at home?

Due to the peculiarities of the root system, an orange does not tolerate a transplant, especially with damage to the earthen coma, it is transplanted only by the transshipment method, and if the roots have not filled the entire space of the container, they simply replace the upper and lower soil layers.

Fruiting trees are transferred every two to three years, young, intensively growing. annually, in a pot with a diameter 1-2 cm larger than that of the previous one. Transplanted in the spring before the start of growth, this kind of work should not be done during flowering, ripening, or at rest. When planting, make sure that the root collar is not buried.

The soil mixture recommended for young specimens consists of turf, leafy soil, humus and sand in a ratio of 2: 1: 1: 1, for mature trees the proportion of turf land is increased (3: 1: 1: 1) and a small amount of clay is added. Provide good drainage to prevent roots from getting wet. Learn more about planting an orange here.

How to germinate orange seeds? And other breeding methods

Since it is quite difficult to germinate orange seeds, they are used only freshly harvested. Before planting, the seeds are soaked in water for 8-12 hours, after which they are placed in a soil of a loose consistency (for example, peat) to a depth of about 1 cm. The crops are covered with foil and kept in a warm, dark place until shoots appear. The sprouts appear in 1-1.5 months, after which they are exposed to light. The pick is made in the phase of two sheets. Next, the seedlings are grown, and when the stem reaches a diameter of 5-6 mm, inoculation is carried out.

Why do orange leaves turn yellow and fall?

The indoor plant is more demanding than other citrus fruits. If the above rules of care are not followed, the orange leaves turn yellow, flowers and ovaries fall off, and in some cases the tree can be completely bare, dropping foliage, and even die.

Most often, orange leaves fall for the following reasons:

  • a sharp change in climatic conditions (transfer from the street to a warm room or, conversely, from a room to a garden in the bright sun);
  • insufficient watering;
  • excess fertilizer;
  • excessive watering, especially in winter;
  • lack of lighting in warm winter conditions (at temperatures above 8-12 ° C);
  • a change in lighting, for example, when transferring to another window or even a sharp turn of the pot, for uniform growth, the tree is turned every 10 days by 10 °;
  • a deep root collar or too large a pot volume during transplantation;
  • draft.

According to the observations of experts, among the reasons why the leaves of an orange fall off, there are also quite exotic ones, for example, tobacco smoke or the proximity of a microwave oven.

How to grow an orange at home from a seed?

The orange seed is covered with a rather dense, hard peel, on the one hand, preserving the sprout from all kinds of damage, and on the other, preventing its germination. If the seed dries up, it is very difficult to make it hatch, so only fresh seeds are used for planting.

  • washed in warm water;
  • soaked for 8-12 hours;
  • planted in loose soil or peat to a depth of 1 cm under the film.

Until the moment of germination, which occurs in a month or a month and a half, the container with seeds remains in a shaded warm place. The mini-greenhouse should be periodically humidified and ventilated. And only after the emergence of sprouts, future orange trees are brought into the world.

Since in countries where oranges grow in nature, trees generously receive both heat and light, you can provide seedlings with the longest daylight hours by planting seeds at the end of winter or in March. But even in this case, young orange trees respond well to the extension of daylight hours with the help of special lamps.

Features of the development of citrus fruits

The growth and development of citrus fruits in nature and on our windowsills is significantly different from other indoor plants. The specificity of development is due to the cyclical nature of the growing season. From spring to autumn, these plants have three development peaks:

First growth, in spring, from about mid-March to June. At this moment, new shoots and leaves grow vigorously. But suddenly the growth stops and the lull (no growth) lasts until the young growth matures.

Ripening of shoots is one of the phases of the growing season, and it consists in preparing the plant for a dormant period. In nature, maturation begins with a significant reduction in growth processes: a decrease in the length of the day, an increase in daily temperature differences, and in cultural cultivation, in addition, when pruning. When ripe in the shoots, the deposition of nutrients increases, the green bark becomes woody, becomes brown and dry, the leaves acquire a darker shade.

Second wave of citrus growth during the month in mid-summer. Again, we observe intensive growth of leaves. In August, it stops again and the maturation of recruits begins.

The third wave of growth usually occurs in the Indian summer. early September and can last until the end of October.

What is noteworthy: often at the end of the growth phase, citruses dry out the apical bud (growth point) at the end of the shoots. Thus, the natural crown formation occurs in nature. Those. thanks to this mechanism, fruit trees have a spreading crown.

I must say that the timing of growth spikes is not strict, they are dictated, first of all, by weather conditions. For example, last year my calamondin began to grow rapidly in mid-March, this year. at the end of February. And an orange in a different room (at lower temperatures) last year. at the end of March, and this year has not yet started. In addition, if the spring is early and sunny, the first growth can be more stormy and long than the second, or vice versa, the spring is cloudy, and the summer is sunny, then the second growth is longer and more productive. Sometimes there are only two growth waves per year, or vice versa, four.

Not in the topic of formation, but to the word about the peaks of growth. During intensive green leaf growth and flowering, citrus fruits are gaining a huge number of buds. Sometimes they bloom like our apple trees. all the branches are covered with flowers, then the formation of ovaries begins. But suddenly a part flies around, and after a couple of weeks, flies around again. A significant part of the fruit set, citrus fruits are dumped on the instincts of self-preservation, so that exhaustion does not occur, there are enough nutrients for a new cycle of growth and flowering.

The first time I saw this sight, I almost made a terrible mistake. The fact is that the massive flying around of the ovaries. they are poured like peas, immediately raises the idea that, probably, the plant does not have enough water. We must water! But waterlogging is destructive for citrus fruits. this is certain death. And if you do not know the physiology, you can destroy the plant, trying to stop the shedding of flowers and ovaries by watering. Therefore, first, check the soil in the depth of the pot, whether it is dry enough.

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Well, now let’s move on to the formation.

Forming an orange crown at home

Fruiting of an orange tree at home can begin 6-10 years after the seeds germinate and only if the plant has a properly formed crown. The buds, and then the ovary, in the same plants appears on the developed branches of the fourth order. Therefore, to obtain an early harvest, the formation of the crown begins during the period when the tree reaches a height of 25-30 cm:

  • In spring, the main shoot is pinched at the level of 18-25 cm.
  • Of the side shoots, three or four of the strongest are left, which are cut off, forcing to branch.
  • In the next season, two branches of the second order are left from the increment. They will subsequently give 3 to 5 shoots of the third order.
  • And only then will horizontal fruiting branches begin to develop.
  • Next, they monitor the density of the crown and the timely replacement of branches.

On young trees, the first flowers and ovaries are best removed. The first harvest can be as little as 2-3 oranges, so that the plant does not lose too much strength when they ripen.

You can speed up the tree’s entry into the fruiting season by wintering the orange at a temperature of 2 to 5 ° C, limiting watering and not feeding for three months. When the temperature rises to 15-18 ° C in the room where the oranges grow, buds begin to set and an ovary begins to form. A properly cared-for orange at home can live up to 50-70 years, regularly delighting with the appearance of white flowers and brightly fragrant fruits.

Step five

The branches of the first order grow, and can grow thin and long for a long time, therefore, when they grow 25 cm, we pinch them again. When the branches are ripe, we cut them about 5-6 cm below the place of pinching, so that four leaves are left on the shoots of the first order, no less. When trimming, we make a cut directly above the bud facing outward, and not inside the crown (picture above).

The final part of crown formation

If you have coped with the formation of shoots of the first and second order, everything else is not difficult. Everything happens according to the same scenario. We grow shoots to a certain length, pincer, wait for ripening, cut.
The length of the shoot, at which the crown of the shoot is pinched, depends on the branching order. with the next order they are shortened.

  • shoot of zero order 15-20 cm
  • shoots of the first order 20-25 cm
  • shoots of the second order 10-15 cm
  • shoots of the third order about 10 cm
  • shoots of the fourth and further about 5-10 cm

On the shoots of the fourth or fifth order, the formation of skeletal branches ends. If the shoots begin to bloom until the crown is formed, it is better to break off the buds, since there will be no growth on such branches, the formation will take a long time. And only with the formation of shoots of the fifth order can citrus be allowed to bear fruit.

The first difficulty: to achieve development after pruning not one bud, but two or three at the same time. If a single shoot begins to grow at the pruning site, you need to break it out, sometimes repeatedly. Those. do not let it grow, but break it out under the base until shoots come from the buds located below.

The second difficulty: the appearance of tops. These shoots are also called fattening, they will not bear fruit, but differ in that they grow vertically upward and grow much faster than future fruit branches. If they are not broken, they draw off a lot of nutrients and thicken the crown.

Rejuvenating old citrus trees

Rejuvenate a lemon tree at the age of 14-20, when its fruiting decreases. By this time, the plant is already quite powerful, dense, the branches are quite thick. Not every windowsill will fit such a specimen, but in the room lemons and oranges are quite razlapisty. fruit shoots do not grow up, but to the sides.

In addition, large trees often outgrow all available containers. The root system is limited to pots (bucket, tub), and may not overpower the nutrition of a large dense crown, especially hung with fruits. To maintain a certain proportionality of tops and roots, the crown of old trees is shortened.

It is necessary to prune in the spring (in March. April): all branches up to the 4th-5th order are cut off, thereby causing increased growth of dormant buds. Rejuvenated plants are transplanted into new dishes or old ones, while the root system must be shortened by one third by cutting off the roots from the periphery of the root ball. In no case should the roots be disturbed inside the root ball.

Step three

New shoots begin to grow from under the leaves remaining on the shoot. Usually, when pruning a zero shoot, the bud of the uppermost leaf or two buds, less often all three, starts to grow. For the formation of a plentifully fruiting tree in the future, it is necessary to ensure that three, in extreme cases, two new shoots start to grow. These will be first-order shoots. If they do not want to grow, only one new shoot stubbornly climbs, we break it out (breaking out differs from pruning in that the shoot is removed completely under the base). We are waiting for the rest of the kidneys to wake up. If they do not want to get under way in any way, then we break out the leading shoot again.

And so, until we get the simultaneous development of two or three shoots of the first order. Ideally, it is better to get four first order shoots, but in reality this does not always happen.

Formation of the crown of a fruit tree

If you already have an adult, grown lemon tree (and other citrus), then you can cut off the branches and form the crown throughout the year, but it is better in spring (April. May). Shoots grow constantly, tops grow especially vigorously. these shoots need to be cut out regardless of the season (if you do not want to use them in the future, this is also possible).

The formation of an already mature large plant with branches of 5, and 6 or more orders of magnitude is carried out as the soul tells you. Step back and evaluate the shape of the crown from the side. Usually it is trimmed so that a lemon or orange really looks like a miniature tree. Some citrus fruits, such as calamondin (citrofortunella), due to genetic characteristics, do not grow as a tree, but as a bush. Then your task is to maintain the even shape of the bush, cut the branches that grow inward, and not outward.

If you have been vaccinated on a fruit tree or game grown from a seed, after a successful fusion, you need to correctly direct the scion. The shoot that grows after inoculation, so that it grows straight, is tied to a stick stuck in the pot. It is necessary to cut off the growing scion at a length of 12-15 cm.In the future, form it in the same way as described above, counting the order of the branches of the scion, and not the rootstock.

Lemon trees, propagated by cuttings, layering or grafting, bear fruit on branches of the 4th to 5th order, going to the side. When using a low-standard form in a tree grown from a cuttings or cuttings, branches of the 4th-5th order are formed by the end of the second year of life. Such plants bloom for the third year and can bear fruit. On three-year-old lemons, first remove half the buds, and then leave 2-3 fruits from the remaining ovaries, on a 4-5-year-old plant. 6-7 fruits, on a 6-7-year-old plant. up to 10 fruits. With such a rationing of the yield, the correct development of the lemon tree is ensured.

How to plant a homemade orange

  • How to plant a homemade orange
  • How to grow an orange
  • How and when to plant a lemon tree

How to grow a stock

The mistake of many novice growers is that they are trying to grow an orange tree from a seed and expect fruit from it. At home, such an orange will not bloom and, accordingly, will not bear fruit. You can only force him to do this by grafting a twig from a plant that has already yielded a crop, and a beautiful rootstock will turn out from the seed.

Plant several seeds at once so that later you can choose the strongest seedling for the rootstock.

Cover the dish with foil or glass and put this mini-greenhouse in a sunny place. The sprouts will appear quite quickly, after which the shelter can be removed. Seedling care is simple. Water them as the topsoil dries out, the ground should always be moist.

When 3-4 true leaves appear, choose the strongest among the grown plants and transplant them into separate pots. Place in a warm, sunny place. Loosen the soil periodically, water and fertilize with special citrus fertilizers. Do not move the seedlings to another place, the orange does not like this very much.

How to graft a plant

When the shoots are lignified and at least 5 mm thick, you can start grafting. Prepare the stock. Cut 1-2 year old twigs from the cultivated plant. Remove all leaves from them, leaving petioles and buds. Cut the lower part of the cutting with a sharp blade at an acute angle on both sides (you should get a wedge), while the cut should be under the lower kidney.

The grafting should be carried out immediately after cutting the cutting, but if this is not possible, wrap the material with wet cotton wool or sphagnum moss and put it in a plastic bag.

Cut the seedling with pruning shears at a level of 10 cm from the soil surface. Make a vertical incision in it about 2 cm deep and insert the blade of the handle into the resulting cleft. Combine the bark of the scion and rootstock.

Cover all sections with garden varnish, and wrap the graft site with insulating tape. After about 1.5 months, it can be removed. If you did everything correctly, the stalk will take root, the orange will quickly start to grow and after 2 years it will bloom with white flowers with a pleasant aroma and will delight you with the first fruits.