How to Put a Piston On a Husqvarna Chainsaw Correctly
Replacing the piston group in a chainsaw or trimmer
Repair at this level should always be balanced. In such small engines operating at high revs, replacing one piston that is burnt or stuck does not give a long result and, if necessary, the entire piston group must be changed. Therefore, you need to consider whether to use this saw further or to purchase a new saw.
If this is a professional model, then such repairs should be carried out, but if it is an old household model such as Husqvarna 40 and it has worked for more than ten or twelve years, it is not profitable to repair it. Because how it will cost repair, so much. As well as acquiring a new saw, let not Husqvarna, but on PARTNER P350XT CHROME, worth 165 is definitely enough. Over, Husqvarna sells such saws, because PARTNER is its subsidiary.
But if you still decide to repair a chainsaw or trimmer, then you need original spare parts that are not cheap. With proper operation of the engine, the first repair may not occur soon and only the piston ring or rings will have to be replaced, depending on the model. But if the saw is jammed, then it is necessary to change the entire piston group. The cylinder, piston and rings.
It should be noted that Husqvarna 136/141 chainsaws have approximately a resource of 500-600 hours, Husqvarna 340/350. 1000-1200 engine hours, professional chainsaws at least 2000-2500 engine hours, subject to strict observance of the operating instructions. In fact, it is impossible to rely on these figures, since the real resource can significantly differ both up and down. But it can be roughly said that semi-professional saws work 3-4 times longer than amateur ones, and professional ones up to 10 times or more.
Of course, nothing lasts forever, but it’s one thing if you change the piston group, after many years of operation and after working its hours, it completely pays for itself, and it’s another thing that for example this saw was refueled with one gasoline, without oil, and it got stuck. Such a saw has to be repaired, since all other parts are normal.
Many companies specifically overcharge the cost of spare parts to buy new models. For chainsaws and trimmers, for example, the company Stihl, spare parts are available in a larger assortment than on the Husqvarna. Therefore, choosing a particular model, find out how things are with spare parts.
Partitioning a Chainsaw Partner-Partner
The PARTNER chainsaw is probably the simplest and cheapest saw in its class. It harmoniously combines such things as price, reliability, quality and maintainability! Order:
- Key 13 and remove the breaker-side cover chainsaw with a hand brake
- Weaken the chain and remove it with the tire.
- Unscrew the top cover of the chainsaw.
- We remove the clutch and the drive sprocket with an original device called the RUSSIAN KEY. To do this, take a chisel, put it on the clutch rib and, with a sharp hammer blow, unscrew the clutch clockwise (the clutch has a left-hand thread). All attempts to fix the piston through the spark plug hole or the muffler hole usually lead to piston damage.
- We unscrew the two screws securing the oil pump with a Phillips screwdriver. We remove it from the rubber seal, after draining the oil from the oil tank.
- We turn off the head of the two silencer bolts for 8 and remove the silencer along with the reflector.
- Torx 25 unscrew the starter cover.
- With the same 8-head, we turn off the carburetor nuts and remove the air filter housing, and after it the carburetor, after removing two hoses and plugging a long hose of a suitable size with a nail. In models with traction, instead of the gas cable, simultaneously with the removal of the carburetor, you need to squeeze the gas trigger. Then the carburetor will be removed without much effort.
- Remove the gasket of the carburetor and adapter.
- Disconnect the high-voltage wire and unscrew the candle
- We remove the ignition-magneto block by unscrewing two self-tapping screws.
- Pry off with a screwdriver remove the bracket-holder wires. Unscrew the screw of the upper shock absorber.
- Turn the saw over and turn the four head bolts of the cylinder by 8. Pull them out.
- We listen to the piston.
- Remove the crankcase and wipe it with a rag.
- We take out the crankshaft with the piston and bearings from the piston.
- We turn off the adapter from the cylinder and carefully remove it, helping with a knife so as not to damage the gasket between them.
- Gently pry the piston circlip, pull out the finger and remove the piston.
- We unscrew the nut by 13 and with a light blow of the hammer on the incompletely unscrewed nut, remove the flywheel.
- On the other side of the shaft elbows we remove the spring-drive of the oil pump by prying it with a screwdriver or puller. When reassembling, the spring is pressed with a suitable mandrel or, for lack of mandrel, the reverse side of the spark plug.
- We remove two bearing seals, check the cage and check for play.
- Inspect the removed parts. The piston should be without visible scoring, and the adapter should be without cracks.
- We assemble in the reverse order.
- Piston, when put in place, we have a lock in the direction of the carburetor. Otherwise, the ring will break and jam the piston.
- Having slightly stretched, we put a compression ring on the piston.
- We fasten the adapter to the cylinder, having previously smeared the gasket with a thin (!) Layer of silicone sealant.
- With a gentle sway, pressing the lock of the piston ring to the cylinder, insert the piston after lubricating it with oil for gasoline.
- When assembling the engine, lubricate with a thin layer of red or black silicone sealant, the crankcase. We position the gland bearing in the same way as it stood before removal (according to the prints on the rubber).
- We collect everything else. With a certain skill, the whole procedure is about an hour.
- Adjustment of the carburetor begins one and a half # 8212; two turns, that is, remove the two plugs, make cuts on the screws with a screwdriver (if they are not there). Tighten the screws all the way, and then unscrew. Next, start a saw and by ear choose the best mode of operation, without failures and with maximum power. If the carburetor is good, then further adjustment occurs no more than half a turn in one or the other direction at each bolt.
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DIY chainsaw repair how to fix a chainsaw yourself? Common Chainsaw Malfunctions
A chainsaw is a tool that neither builders, nor rescuers, nor ordinary summer residents can do without. The former need a chainsaw for the construction of structures, the manufacture of scaffolding, the latter often have to use this tool to save drivers in an accident. Gardeners. Amateurs also purchase chainsaws for harvesting firewood for a bath, pruning overgrown tree branches. Sometimes tools do not withstand a large-scale front of work and simply break down. Is an ordinary user like you and me able to independently find the problem and fix the chainsaw? What malfunctions of a chainsaw can you fix yourself? This article will help to answer the questions posed.
Any chainsaw, whether it is a model of a European brand (Stihl, ECHO, Husqvarna) or a domestic manufacturer (Ural, Cedar, etc.), has the same appearance. This is a case, inside which there is an engine and a fuel tank, on the outside of the handle (there may be an additional one), a starter, a saw bar with a chain. With a sharp jerk of the cable, the engine starts to work, the saw blade comes into action.
However, there are several situations where this does not happen. In these cases, you will observe the following picture:
– the tool is jammed in the cut;
– it begins to function, but quickly stalls;
– The chainsaw is running with insufficient power.
There can be many reasons for this. Let’s deal with each of them separately.
1. If you are faced with a chainsaw stuck inside an impressive log, you should not panic and try to pull it out. This could damage the saw bar, and the entire tool may become inoperative. Turn it off, wait until the blade stops completely, and carefully remove the tire from the cut. Perhaps the cause of this situation was dull chain links. In this case, simply replace the saw blade with a new one.
2. Sometimes our simple forgetfulness can serve as a problem. Be sure to check the presence of fuel in the tank before turning it on. After all, this may be the reason that the saw does not start!
A more serious problem is a defective carburetor. To understand whether it is operational, unscrew the spark plug. If it is dry, or, conversely, too wet, soot is present on it. This indicates improper carburetor regulation. Set it up correctly. Do not forget also that the gap between the electrodes in the candle should be 0.5-0.65 mm. If this is not the case, this may also cause the tool to fail.
The ignition system can also sometimes fail. To diagnose it, turn out the candle, put on the cap with the contact on it and pull the cable again. If there is no spark, perhaps the problem lies precisely in the ignition unit.
3. Do not forget that 2-stroke saws work on the so-called. Fuel mixture, not pure gasoline. If you have just such a chainsaw, observe the proportions when preparing the mixture. The correct ratio of gasoline and oil in a particular model is indicated in the instructions. Otherwise, the engine will not receive the necessary lubrication, and the saw will stall.
4. Lack of power (or half-strength) can be caused by poor condition of the piston rings. If they hang loose enough inside the cylinder (this can be checked by slightly shaking the part), it’s time to purchase parts.
As we see, any person who is more or less familiar with this tool and the principle of its functioning will be able to fix the problem and cope with its solution. However, if you do not have technical education and skills in working with a chainsaw, it is better to entrust the repair to professional specialists. So you can protect yourself from the consequences of incorrect actions, prevent many deplorable results and save on buying a new tool.