How to put the button on the perforator. Diagram of connection of the drill button with the speed regulator and reverse

How to Remove the Peorator Switch

If you’ve gotten to the point of switching modes in your peorator, it means that you:

  • Do you know about the torch
  • You have just purchased a peorator but for some reason you have not read the manual and are looking for the answer, which should be in the peorator case.
  • The manual contains text in all languages you do not understand (English, German, Chinese, Japanese, and many others). By the way, in English the peorator sounds approximately the same as in Russian a small Accent.
  • Alternatively, you can’t read text from a book, but you can read well from a monitor or tablet screen.
  • You lost the manual, and now with the help of Yandex (“find everything”) or Google search in what part of your vast apartment it is, but you found yourself on this site.
  • And the last option. You had the instruction manual in Russian with a detailed description, but it was eaten by your favorite dog, struck by lightning, washed away by a great flood, or you took it with you to the cottage and used it as a read newspaper.

If none of the options are suitable, write to the email from the “Contact Us” section. Your most cultured choices will be made public.

And so, to the main point of the topic. Below it will be told and shown how to switch the modes of the peorator, and why.

An example of the display will be a professional class regular rental peorator, the Bosch GBH 4 DFE.

Please note that you have to press the red button every time you switch modes.

And one more thing: don’t switch modes while the pen is running.

Repair instructions. replacing and connecting the peorator button using a Makita 2450 as an example

Most Makita torches (models HR2020, 2432, 2440, 2440F, 2450, 2455, 2475 and 2641) use the typical TG813TLB-1 switch.

To have it inspected and/or replaced, the following tools must be prepared:

The order of repair/replacement of the power button on the Makita 2450 is as follows:

  • Disassembling the electrical part of the tool. To do this, simply loosen the three mounting screws on the back of the handle with a Phillips screwdriver and remove the plastic cover.
  • Next, you need to unhook the brushes and remove the switch itself TG813TLB-1.
  • To disconnect the switch, you must remove all the wires from the switch. The power wires (brown and blue) are fastened with a screw clamp and there is no problem with them. to remove the two wires, it is enough to loosen the two screws. The other wires are attached to the self-clamping connectors, and to remove the wire you will need a spoke or awl, which are inserted into a special hole and open the clamp. All wires are removed in the same way. For repairs it is not superfluous to have the wiring diagram of the button, so it is strongly recommended before removing the wires to sketch a schematic diagram or take pictures on a smartphone, so that when you connect a new button no questions arise.
  • Connecting the new button. Wires are simply inserted into the automatic clamps as far as they will go, and the power leads are secured with screws.
  • Then you need to install the button in the hole, put the brushes back in place, install and fasten the three screws on the back cover of the handle.

Useful tips

It is not uncommon for even professional equipment to fail quickly. It happens because of tool work with significant overload of electric motor. Do not allow the power unit to overheat, you must periodically make technological pauses. Sometimes a serious breakdown of the power tool is caused by neglect during operation or storage.

After each use, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the peorator of dust. Use a soft cloth or tissue to wipe not only the body of the power tool, but also the ventilation slots.

It is unacceptable to use the peorator outdoors during rain and snow.

Check the carbon brushes at regular intervals. They are a critical part of the electrical circuit, they carry current to the collector and gradually wear out during operation and must be replaced.

Do not buy non-original components of dubious quality, which can lead to more significant damage.

How to make a soft start and speed controller for angle grinder

All budget options angle grinder have several disadvantages. Firstly, there is no soft start system. This is a very important option. Surely all of you have included this powerful power tool in the network, and at start-up you have observed how the incandescence of the light bulb, which is also connected to this network, decreases.

This phenomenon occurs because high-powered electric motors at the start-up draw huge currents, which causes the mains voltage to drop. This can break the tool itself, especially Chinese-made with unreliable windings, which can one day burn out during start-up.

button, perforator, diagram, drill, speed, regulator

So the soft start system protects both the mains and the tool. And when you start the tool you get a big kick or jolt, but of course there is no such thing in case of implementation of the soft start system.

Secondly there is no speed regulator which makes it possible to work for a long time without loading the tool.

The circuit shown below is from an industrial design:

It is implemented by the manufacturer in expensive devices.

To the scheme can be connected not only “angle grinder”, but, in principle, any device. drill, milling and lathe. But taking into account the fact that it should be a collector motor in the tool

That won’t work with asynchronous motors. You need a frequency converter there.

So you have to make a printed circuit board and start assembling.

As a regulating element a double operational amplifier LM358 is used which controls a triac by means of a transistor VT1.

So, the power link in this circuit is a powerful triac, type BTA20-600.

Disassembly algorithm

Do not forget that the repair of the peorator is possible only in de-energized mode! Because of the similarity in the internal composition of the main part of the torches, the disassembly scheme of the tool is approximately the same. begin to disassemble the device, in case no external malfunctions are observed, from the cartridge.

Next, the following parts are removed one by one:

  • rubber duster;
  • the locking ring (using a screwdriver);
  • plastic duster;
  • washer;
  • plate;
  • the spring;
  • A small metal ball.

When the last four parts are worn, the barrel cannot be retained in the cartridge and begins to fall out. To fix this, the broken part must be replaced and the other parts cleaned and lubricated.

The next part in the disassembling algorithm is the housing. The first thing to do is to remove the switch. To do this, you need to put it in the “Punch” state, indicated by the drawn hammer. Then, while pressing the button on this mechanism, turn it until it clicks.

To complete the removal, take a screwdriver, use it to pry open the switch and pull it out. In order to get to the electrical fault, it’s worth removing the plastic housing.

This is not difficult, it is usually held around the perimeter by screws. If there is a problem in the gearbox, it must be disassembled and the damaged bearings must be replaced.

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Remove the socket

After ensuring that the gearbox is de-energized, the installed bit must be removed from the chuck head and the chuck separated and disassembled. To do this:

  • Use a flathead screwdriver to loosen the rubber dust cap.
  • Use pliers to loosen and remove the retaining ring.
  • Carefully separate the plastic anti-invasive tube from the plastic anti-invasive sleeve and make sure the bearing balls, washer and spring do not fall out.
  • Parts are laid out and cleaned of grease, then inspected for damage.
button, perforator, diagram, drill, speed, regulator

Reference. In a situation where the installed bit jams in the cam mechanism of the chuck, it is recommended to tap it in a circle with a rubber hammer, and then add 5-7 drops of liquid grease. The operation is carried out 2-3 times with an interval of 3 minutes, after which the pliers extract the nozzle (chisel or spatula).

Replacing and Repairing the Chuck

Breakages in the SDS chuck usually result either in failure to insert the drill bit shank or in its dislocation during operation. The fixing mechanism is ridiculously simple and you can fix most of the damages literally “on the knee”.

To disassemble the cartridge, you must pick up and remove the rubber boot in its front part. After pulling back the cup as for the drill bit insertion, the locking ring has to be removed from the barrel socket and the clamping sleeve together with the spring has to be removed. Remember to carefully remove the two small balls from the grooves.

The conical inner part of the cup presses the balls into the grooves when the drill must be locked in place and allows them to move freely when the cup is retracted. The spontaneous drill bit ejection is usually caused by wear on the balls or inner surface of the sleeve. Replacement parts can be taken together with a new chuck; the balls for SDS-Plus have a diameter of 6.9 mm and can be taken out of the usual bearing.

Jamming and failure to insert the drill bit can also result from worn-out parts; this is often caused by coking of the chuck due to dried lubricant or foreign objects in the chuck. In any case, further operation of the tool in such condition leads to breakage of slots in the drill shanks and the above described problems can occur even if the chuck is in good condition. The cause of most damage is immediately visible when the switch is disassembled and cleaned.

How to remove the mode switch

To diagnose the internal components it is necessary to remove the body of the rotary table and clean the surface of the components from dust. Start the disassembly by separating the operation regulator.

It is moved to the stop. usually it is the extreme right position (below the bump mode icon), and then, by prying with a flat screwdriver, remove the regulator from its seat.

How to check the start button and brushes

Next, the master unscrews the housing fasteners, removes it and begins servicing the inside of the device.

The first thing to check is the start button on the tool. The button is separated from the power wires and tested with a multimeter.

If the plastic, from which the button is made, is not melted, it means that the starter mechanism and the speed regulator installed in it work properly. If not, the assembly is replaced with a new one.

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The next step is to remove, check and clean, and if necessary, replace the brushes of the power unit.

Remove the brushes, picking them up with thin pliers or a screwdriver. Brush channels are fitted with special plugs depending on the design of the engine. They are pulled out, the springs and retaining screws are squeezed. Now the brushes can be removed without disassembling the propulsion part. Brushes and the channels in which they are pulled are cleaned. When putting them in their original position, it is important not to mix up the left and right. If the graphite structure of one of the brushes is damaged, it is replaced with a new one of the same size and configuration.

Most modern models are supplied with 2 to 3 matching brushes to replace worn brushes.

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Repair instructions. Replacing and wiring the torch button, using a Makita 2450 as an example

Most Makita torches (models HR2020, 2432, 2440, 2440F, 2450, 2455, 2475 and 2641) use the typical switch series TG813TLB-1.

To inspect and/or replace it, you need to have the following tools ready:

Drill button wiring diagram. how to fix the problem?

Unfortunately it will not be enough for you to check the test tool, because most of the buttons on the device are equipped with infinitely variable speed, and therefore an ordinary tester can give you the wrong data. In this case you need a special circuit to connect the drill button. Often in instruments, one wire is connected to the wire, and so pressing the button at the same time causes the terminals to call out. If the light comes on, the button is fine, but if you notice a malfunction, it’s time to replace the button.

When replacing, keep in mind that the circuit can be simple or reversed. Because of this, all work on replacing the button should be done solely according to the diagram, without adding anything “in-house”. Consequently, the part must match the size and power of the tool. At the same time calculating the power. Quite a simple task. We use the formula P = UI (considering that the power of the drill is 650W), I = 2,94 A (650/220), so the button must be 2,95 A.

Failure Diagnosis

this simple-looking device lets the user know during use that it will need repair in a short time, but not everyone understands it. If your drill seems to stop working temporarily, or if the button needs to be pressed harder than before, these are the first signs that the starter unit is malfunctioning.

When you use a cordless drill, the first thing you must measure with a tester battery voltage. if less than the nominal, it must be charged.

In this case we are particularly interested in the condition and functionality of the on/off button of the product. Let’s show how to check the button using a classic impact drill as an example. To remove the cover you will need a Phillips-head screwdriver and a flathead screwdriver, and for direct diagnosis. a standard tester (multimeter).

Be sure to unplug the power cord before disassembling the tool.

  • Remove screws from the housing of the drill.
  • Loosen the screws that hold the power cord.
  • Disconnect reverse.
  • Carefully remove the starter unit.

Most often, the reverser is attached to the usual clips: slightly unbend them and pull out the element. If it has failed, there should be no problem with replacement. A reversing block for your drill can be found at almost any hardware store.

You will need a multimeter to check the power button on the drill

  • Turn on the multimeter and set the knob to beep.
  • Hold one probe against the wire and the other against the screw that holds the power cord.
  • Press the button.
  • If there is a beep it means that the key is working, if not, it is faulty.

What kind of grease for the geared motor

Different types of grease are used for lubricating the gearbox and drill chuck.

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Liquid grease

Similar to normal car engine oil. It is used in gearboxes with a hermetically sealed housing. The rotating shafts in these units are sealed with oil seals, which keep the oil inside.

Lubrication is performed through special holes, which are then sealed tightly. The system is very efficient, as the gears and other elements subject to friction are evenly coated with an antifriction coating.

In addition, the working fluid acts as a heat sink and cools the gearbox by getting in contact with the housing walls. However, there is a drawback: The pressure in the pressurized gearbox housing increases as it heats up.

As there is no breather plug (as in a car engine crankcase), grease squeezed out through oil seals may be lost.


Much more widespread because of its ease of use. Has a thick consistency and good adhesion. Applied to the gear unit components when the gear unit is disassembled.

It is quite easy to control the lubricant quantity. When cold, the grease is thick enough to adhere firmly to the mechanisms. After assembly the gearbox does not need to be completely leak-tight, quality gaskets and sealing sleeves on the shafts are enough.

When the engine is running, when the gearbox heats up, the viscosity of the grease reduces and it spreads evenly over the surface of the parts. After cooling down, the grease will thicken and stick to the gears again.

button, perforator, diagram, drill, speed, regulator

Why do you need to put grease in?

The peorator is a mechanism that has many moving parts with high loads inside. To understand why a peorator needs lubrication, let’s understand the purpose of lubricants. Lubricants are put into the construction of the unit for the following purposes:

  • Reduce friction. Reducing friction increases component life, so you need to lubricate almost all moving parts and mechanisms except the inside of the electric motor (the rotor or armature that rotates inside the stator)
  • Increase heat dissipation or increase heat dissipation. When parts rub against each other, they heat up, which lubricants are designed to combat
  • Protects the mechanism from outside dust and moisture, and traps metal dust and particles that are formed by friction

The presence of lubricant not only reduces friction of the parts, but also increases the efficiency of the mechanisms. It is the frequency of preventive maintenance that determines how long the torch will last.

The chuck and the tail end of the nozzle need to be lubricated, which is done to reduce friction, as well as to reduce heat. Because in the process of work with the nozzle, there is a contact of the chuck retainers with the tail part, which quickly gets hot.

What is needed to lubricate a geared motor?

This grease is also demanding in terms of operating temperatures. But this does not mean at all that it is impossible to use lithol. There are factors when the use of domestic lubricant only increases the impact force of the tool and reduces the noise level created by it. This is all the more important with a Chinese-made rotary tool. Users of Chinese tools and do not rely on the service warranty, and therefore act at their own discretion from the beginning of operation of the torch (or an electric drill). Since every manufacturer’s peorator has its own fundamental design features, there is simply no single lubrication instruction. The main thing is that you have it handy:

And then, as you have already understood, we act precisely according to the instructions. And remember that in any case the as much as possible must be cleaned of dust after work. Make sure that the grease level is no more than the reference mark. Most often the torch has a special container for the lubricant, which means that it is not very difficult to perform this entire procedure.

It is not advisable to lubricate the gearbox in the geared motor immediately after use because hot parts lose their physical properties when exposed to the cold lubricant. The drill shank should also be lubricated with lithol or solidol. If the geared motor has an open chuck, it is advisable to treat the gland. It should first be disassembled and thoroughly wiped down. Applied lubricant will give an opportunity to prolong the life of the device and will protect it from dust penetration into the tool. There are several types of lubricants

How often should the tool be relubricated

Lubricate the tool shank each time you install it, after first wiping off any dust or other debris. If you work intensively, you should visually inspect the grease level on the seating of the tool you are using.

The intensity of use differs from user to user: some use the torch every day, others only occasionally. There is therefore no definite answer about the regularity of relubrication or replacement of the lubricant. In order to determine whether a lubricant change is necessary in general, you should be guided by the following:

  • The intensity of use of the tool;
  • recommendations given for this purpose in the operator’s manual;
  • warranty service period.

The manufacturers recommendations for greasing tool parts are the most complete and are given in the Operator’s Manual. The parts that are not listed there do not need to be lubricated.

How to connect the drill button yourself?

You will need a flathead screwdriver and a Phillips head screwdriver, as well as an awl for the procedure. If you don’t have the latter, a sack needle or any other thick needle will do. If the model is characterized by small dimensions, you can also take tweezers for more convenience.

  • Loosen a couple of screws that hold the power cord.
  • Insert an awl into the stator next to the wire and carefully remove the wire.
  • Pull out the second cable in the same way.
  • If the button is not fixed with clips, unscrew screws and take it out.
  • Put the new key in place and connect the wires also with the awl.
  • Install the block on the drill, not forgetting about reverse.
  • Carefully lay the wires and tighten them with the screws.
  • Close the cover.

In a good half of cases, the wires coming from the stator are different in color. If they are the same, they will need to be labeled so that they are not mixed up when connected.

Drill button diagram

Figure 1. Wiring diagram of the reversing button

shown in picture.The drill has a built-in motor speed control and a built-in rotor directional control.reverse.

How to change the Drill Bit to Drill Bit

The next mode in the clockwise direction of rotation of the mode switch is drilling. This is probably the most important and most stressful mode of operation.

Press the red button and set the switch to the position as shown in the photo. No big deal.

In this mode you can use a drill (drill bit) with SDS-plus shank to make a hole in a concrete wall.

Important note: Do not try to put drill bits in a chuck that are not designed for a specific type of chuck. For example, drill with cylindrical shank in an SDS-plus chuck. The tail part of the drill bit may be flattened and you will not be able to remove the drill bit from the chuck.