How to remove a broken drill from a hammer drill chuck

How to remove a drill from a hammer drill: expert advice

Construction work now requires the use of various tools, one of which is a hammer drill. With the help of this device, workers make holes of various diameters, as well as dismantle various reinforced concrete or stone structures.

Situations often occur when it is very difficult, if not impossible, to get the nozzle out of the device holder. In this regard, the question arises of how to pull the drill out of the hammer drill without damaging the device. To do this, you must first figure out what causes such troubles.

Ways to get a drill from a hammer drill

As soon as the drill gets wedged in a concrete wall, floor or any other similar structure, you must immediately turn off the rotation mode, if enabled, and leave only the impact. After that, you need to pull the tool towards you, while pulling it to the other side of the surface in which it is stuck. These movements will lead to the fact that the drill will break part of the concrete layer holding it, after which it should simply and without much effort come out. This method will also help when the drill gets jammed in the wall structure due to the coarse fraction, and if the product gets into the reinforcement.

Another easy way to extract the drill from the surface is to use the reverse rotation function. This function is not available on all instruments, in addition, its use leads to the licking of the drum assembly of the mechanism. If the device has a warranty, then you can try to extract the drill using this method.

By clicking on the link http://vse-postroim-sami.ru/equipment/tools/9620_samodelnyj-vibrator-dlya-betona-iz-perforatora/, you will learn how to independently make a vibrator for concrete from a hammer drill. Read about how to choose the right hammer drill in this article. Perhaps you are also interested in what kind of drill bits are for drilling concrete.

There is also a rather extravagant way to extract the borax. To do this, you need a gas wrench. It must be screwed onto the nozzle, and then unscrewed in the opposite direction. This method works because the gas wrench has a fairly long lever with which you can apply a lot of force. But if this method still does not work, you can try to knock on the handle of the key with a hammer. At the same time, the punch should be loosened from side to side. The combination of these movements will cause the drill to come out rather quickly.

In some cases, before removing the drill from the hammer drill, you will have to make several additional holes with another tool. As a result, a large hole should form around the drill, the diameter of which should be about 10 centimeters. The drill will come out together with a fragment of the wall, the resulting hole can be repaired later. This method is suitable in the case when it is impossible to close in the wall or cut the drill.

If none of the above methods came up, then the nozzle will simply have to be cut off the angle grinder, beat off with a sledgehammer or something to cover up.

Now let’s talk about what to do if the drill gets stuck in the hammer drill. This is most often due to the fact that the material of the shank does not withstand loads and deforms. To remove the tool, it is necessary to clamp it tightly in a vice. After that, it is necessary to turn on the reverse on the instrument, it is advisable to set it to maximum power. The start must be pressed with some interruptions, since prolonged operation in this mode will lead to a breakdown of the power unit of the device.

After the product is wedged, the perforator should be abruptly pulled out of the vice. They will contain a drill that is no longer usable. If the vice was not around, you can limit yourself to a thick wooden board. The hammer drill must be set up for drilling, but at the same time turn on the reverse. You need to drill until the tool “bites”.

Varieties and causes of drill jamming in a hammer drill

There are two most common variants of this trouble:

  • the drill gets wedged in the drill chuck or in the buffer element, which is used to install an ordinary nozzle into a hammer drill;
  • the product gets stuck in the clamp of the punch itself.

In the first case, the problem appears due to the fact that a drill is required to solve problems, which is used for a conventional drill. For its installation, there is a special product. the adapter chuck is the same as in a conventional electric drill. The clamping element of the punch is inserted into it, after which you can start work.

Standard punch scheme

Broken Bit Removal

After their completion, in some cases it is not possible to simply get the drill, since the lips of the clamping device hold it tightly. This problem is quite easy to solve, since its root lies in the misuse of the clamping mechanism. Some craftsmen simply forget about regular lubrication, so the tool wedges.

WD-40 fluid can be used to remove the drill from the rock drill.

In the second case, the drill got stuck in the hammer drill. This trouble appears for completely different reasons than getting stuck in the transition node. The nozzle in the electric drill moves around its axis, in some cases it makes weak reciprocating movements. This is due to the transfer of energy into the tool body through the lips of the clamping mechanism and the bottom of the chuck.

The hammer drill uses a different energy transfer technology, and accordingly, the nozzle in the clamp moves differently. Since the rotary-impact and just impact vectors of the tool movement are provided in the hammer drill. Energy is transmitted to it by means of a special striker, which is set in motion by means of a power unit powered by electricity. This hammer has a mechanical effect on the shanks of tools installed in the chuck, such as a drill, drill, bit or chisel.

Sometimes a vise is used to extract the drill from the hammer drill.

easy stuck drill chuck removal

These elements are equipped with special grooves, with the help of which they are securely fixed in the clamping device. These grooves also serve to provide the tool with the power to rotate. Poor quality tools are made from soft alloys that do not undergo heat treatment. The shanks of such products cannot withstand high and prolonged mechanical loads, therefore they become unusable. In this case, you may have to disassemble the tool before removing the drill from the hammer drill.

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Boer stuck in the wall: how to pull out?

In some cases, the drill can be firmly stuck in a wall or any other surface of reinforced concrete structures. In most cases, such a nuisance happens if the hole is drilled at a slight angle of 6 centimeters. There are several ways to retrieve the tool.

Instructions

The first step is to check if the rock drill has a reverse rotation function. If there is one, you need to turn it on and, swinging the tool from side to side, get it out of the wall.

In addition, you can arm yourself with a drill and make another hole near the existing one, and by loosening the punch, remove it from the structure.

If the above steps do not help, you will have to use a gas wrench. If the size is too large, then a steel plate can be used as a spacer. The key should be screwed onto the drill and hit on its handle with a hammer from the wall. These movements are not the most convenient, but the method is quite effective.

You can also use a reverse hammer to retrieve the drill, which is easy to find at any body shop. If this tool is not available, you can connect the hammer drill to the SDS connector of the accessory and pull it away from the work surface. This method is effective when the drill is stuck at a depth of no more than 10 centimeters.

If the drill gets stuck in the wall while drilling through with very little left until the end of the process, you can punch the stuck tool with a sledgehammer. It is necessary to beat in the direction of drilling. It is important to remember that you cannot hit the nozzle itself. you must use a board or any other pad to soften the impact on the drill.

To get around these problems, it is enough to remove the drill and drill hole as often as possible and clean it of dust, concrete fragments and other contaminants. In addition, a drill or other accessory can jam in the surface if there is too much pressure on it, so the tool must be held lightly. If the structure is reinforced concrete, that is, it has metal reinforcement, then there is a risk that the drill will get stuck in it. Therefore, before starting these works, you should check the location of these metal elements with a special device.

In some cases, it happens that the drill jammed the hammer drill. This is usually due to the use of a cheap, low quality tool. In such products, the fasteners do not withstand the load and are deformed. In some cases, it is enough to clamp the tool in a vice and try to unscrew it. In the most difficult cases, you will have to disassemble the cartridge. To do this, the first step is to dismantle the upper rubber product, as well as the retaining ring, which is located under it.

Recommendations for avoiding such cases

If after these operations the drill can go through the shank without any extra effort, then this tool is really of high quality. If deformation has begun, then at this stage the product will simply be removed from the clamping mechanism. It is important not to miss the moment when these changes start in order to prevent serious jamming of the drill in the rock drill.

A similar nuisance can also arise from the decision to use rather powerful equipment for solid objects, but keep the usual drills. Even the highest quality products that are not designed to handle any material will quickly fail and deform. Therefore, for each type of material, special attachments should be used.

It is important to remember that it is not always possible to independently remove the nozzle from the hammer drill. Therefore, you simply cannot do without visiting the service center, which will lead to the loss of the warranty. The fact is that the use of low-quality or unsuitable equipment is a user error.

Ways to get a drill from a hammer drill

During complex work, riveting of the opposite side of the drill, which is installed in the chuck of the hammer drill, may occur. As a result, it is unlikely that it will be possible to freely remove the drill from the power tool. Therefore, in order to dismantle the deformed shank from the chuck in this case, it is necessary:

  • In the first case, you can clamp the drill in a vice. Then take the power tool in your hands, gradually shaking it from side to side, pull it towards you. As a result, the deformed shank should be released from the clamping mechanism of the power tool.
  • The second method involves the use of two vices. The puncher, wrapped with rubber gaskets, so as not to damage the integrity of the plastic case, is clamped in a large vice. After that, the drill must be clamped with a small vice and with a hammer, loosen it from side to side with weak blows. Impacts should be applied in the direction of the drill exit from the clamping mechanism.

In the event that it is impossible to remove the drill from the clamping mechanism of the perforator while turning, it is necessary to dismantle the parts of the chuck. Then you need to try to turn the drill in the opposite direction 90 degrees. In this way, you can quickly remove the deformed drill, but it is worth noting that after such dismantling, you will have to change the components of the clamping element, since they are likely to become unusable.

When removing a stuck drill, it is recommended to use a penetrating solution to loosen the grip of the clamping mechanism. WD. 40 is perfect for these purposes.

Reasons for jamming the drill in the hammer drill

During use of the hammer drill, jamming of the drill can occur, as a result of which it will be very difficult to remove it from the chuck. Basically, this problem can occur in 2 cases:

  • The drill has jammed directly in the chuck. adapter. As a rule, such an adapter is used during the drilling mode when it becomes necessary to use an ordinary drill.
  • The drill is jammed directly in the clamping jaws of the power tool.

In the first case, the drill gets wedged in the chuck. adapter, which is used together with the hammer drill, due to the need to use the drilling mode without impact. Before use, such an adapter must be inserted into the clamp of the power tool, and only then place the drill into it.

After the completion of all work, a situation may arise when it becomes problematic to remove the drill from the clamping element. Therefore, in this case, it is recommended to use special compounds for the safe dismantling of the used drill. For example, WD. 40 is perfect for these purposes.

After application, this composition, in a short period of time, will be able to relax the clamp to such an extent that the drill can be dismantled without much effort. Ordinary kerosene can be used as an alternative to WD. 40. It needs to be applied to the mechanism, then wait 10 minutes and try to dismantle the drill, loosening it a little and tapping the chuck.

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Quite often, when using the drill directly in the chuck of a power tool (without adapters), jamming can occur, which is why it is sometimes very difficult to remove it. As a rule, this happens due to the fact that the drill is made of low-quality material.

During the operation of the punch, the rotary-percussion or simply percussion mode is used. As a result, all the energy is transferred to the drill from a special striker, which strikes successively on its shank. The drill, in turn, is equipped with special grooves, which, after installation, are firmly fixed by a clamping element.

As a rule, low quality shanks are made from soft alloys, which are not subjected to additional heat treatment. As a result, they are not able to withstand a long-term heavy load and become unusable, after which they become jammed.

How to remove a stuck drill from a hammer drill?

Often, during a variety of repair or construction work, a power tool such as a hammer drill is used. Thanks to the use of this tool, you can quickly, without much difficulty, make holes even in the most durable surface. It is also often used during the dismantling of various surfaces (concrete, tiles, etc.).

It should be noted that any power tool is subjected to stress during operation and may become malfunctioning. Quite often, people working with rotary hammers are faced with the problem of removing the drill from the chuck of such a power tool. In order to pull out a stuck drill, you will have to make a lot of effort and show dexterity.

Tips for Avoiding Jams

To avoid problems associated with jamming the drill in the chuck of the hammer drill, it is recommended to use only high-quality nozzles that are produced by well-known, popular brands. In addition, when working with different materials, it is necessary to correctly and correctly select the appropriate working attachments. Before long-term use of the bit for drilling a solid surface, it is recommended to first check its quality.

To do this, using a nozzle, you need to make several holes in the working surface, and then dismantle it from the cartridge. If, after the performed manipulations, it easily passes through the shank and is dismantled, then, most likely, such a nozzle is made of high-quality material and its deformation, in the course of work, should not occur.

The drill is stuck in the hammer drill: how to get the drill so that the tool does not break?

Repair work most often requires the use of a tool such as a hammer drill. They are drilled holes and dismantled surfaces. Any power tool is subject to stress during operation, and this gradually leads to malfunctions. Often, after the completed work process, a problem arises with the removal of the drill from the tool holder. It takes a little work to pull out a stuck drill.

Light etching of the debris with nitric acid

There are situations when a piece of a drill gets stuck in the hole tightly, and it is impossible to pull it out by the listed methods. In such particularly difficult cases, nitric acid can help.

Concentrated nitric acid reacts vigorously with many metals, causing them to quickly corrode and break down. The exception is aluminum. The alloys from which the drills are made do not possess such resistance to the action of nitric acid. This property is used when you need to easily remove a stuck piece from an aluminum part.

To carry out the reaction, the following tools and materials are required:

  • Nitric acid;
  • a piece of ordinary plasticine;
  • some thin hole cleaning tool.

Using any suitable tool, they try to remove as much aluminum chips as possible from the hole, which can clog the helical groove of the drill and prevent the acid from penetrating deep.

Then a cross between a cup and a funnel is molded from plasticine, which will hold the acid over the hole and prevent it from spreading.

The plasticine cup is secured over the stuck drill hole. Acid is poured into it. The part is left for several hours.

“In this way, I was able to get the bummer, which I could not loosen and pull out with pliers. Literally overnight, the nitrogen ate almost all the drill, there were pieces that I just shook out. The aluminum remained absolutely intact, not damaged at all “.

Yuri Kolchin, home master

An indicator that the reaction is active are bubbles on the surface of nitric acid. If the reaction is weak, the part needs to be slightly warmed up with a construction hairdryer.

Etching is often used in such cases, but not always successfully. Some masters complain that they cannot achieve the desired effect for several days. This could be due to two problems:

  • the hole is heavily clogged with chips mixed with oil and the acid does not penetrate to the required depth;
  • acid too little.

That is why it is recommended to pre-clean the screw grooves of the debris as much as possible and use a plasticine funnel. If you drip a few drops onto the drill, there will be no active corrosion.

Reasons for jamming

This kind of problem occurs in two cases:

  • The drill is stuck in the adapter chuck that is used to insert a conventional drill
  • The part is stuck in the clamping lips of the hammer drill.

The first problem occurs due to the need to use a conventional drill in the work of the drill, which requires a special adapter cartridge for manipulation with a perforator. It is inserted into the clamp of the device.

The second reason for the bit jamming may be the clamping of the hammer drill. This kind of interference occurs in other circumstances. The drill bit rotates around the axis, sometimes performing weak reciprocating movements. This happens due to the transfer of power to the power tool through the lips of the clamping element and the bottom of the chuck.

The hammer drill mechanism transfers energy in a different way, so the drill in the clamp moves differently. The instrument has rotary-percussion and just percussion working functions. Energy is transferred to the device by a special striker, which hits the tail of the installed nozzle.

The attachment has special grooves that are firmly fixed in the clamping element, ensuring the transfer of torque. Poor-quality nozzles are made of a soft alloy that does not lend itself to heat treatment, as a result. the tails do not withstand the load and become unusable.

How to remove a jammed drill from a concrete wall?

There was a 10mm hole in the reinforced concrete wall. He began to expand it with a drill to 16mm, the 16mm drill entered the wall by 6 cm and jammed. probably with reinforcement. And neither there nor here.

How to remove it, please recommend!

  • I can’t unscrew it with a wrench. I’m also afraid to break the SDS-Plus edges with a long extension cord for a wrench. Is there a nut head on SDS-Plus?
  • If I start knocking out from the back side, I’m afraid I won’t pull out the drill at all.
  • So far, I only see the option of raskurochivaniya holes from the sides, which is extremely ugly.

Thank you all for your advice. And then the mood dropped nowhere below

Reverse rotation of the perf and wiggle the result does not give?

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My drill has no reverse rotation. In addition, there is no rotation at all. protection is triggered.

zlnc The drill is short, i.e. only SDS shank sticks out?

The drill is 45 cm long, deepened by 6 cm. Stuck in the last 2-3 cm maximum.

zlnc wrote: There was a 10mm hole in the reinforced concrete wall. Began to expand it with a drill up to 16mm

This is your mistake. Don’t ever do that again.

zlnc wrote: How to remove it, please recommend!

remove, broken, drill, hammer, chuck

Gas (pipe) wrench. The probability of a drill breakage is naturally extremely high.

zlnc wrote: If I start knocking out from the back side, I’m afraid I won’t pull out the drill at all.

Trying is not torture. It will not be worse.

in my humble opinion

zlnc wrote: Drill 45 cm long, deepened by 6 cm.

in my humble opinion

zlnc wrote: Drill 45 cm long,

Well then let’s take it again

remove, broken, drill, hammer, chuck

Kvost wrote: With a gas (pipe) wrench.

Clamp the drill (most likely you will have to put a steel gasket, because not all keys compress 16 mm

One more time please. Not understood. Are we hitting the jaws of the gas wrench? In the direction? details can be? (98% are inspiring numbers!)

zlnc From the wall, i.e. knock the drill back

I tried it. I clamp the drill with a gas wrench, I even create a twisting force, pressing the key to the floor to the left of the drill, hitting the jaws. The drill does not move.

zlnc wrote: I even create a twisting effort,

You shouldn’t do this, you just need to knock

zlnc wrote: It’s hard to swing.

Take a bigger hammer. 200 gr. I think not enough

zlnc wrote: pressing the key to the floor

Why do you need extra friction, you need to knock out along the axis

I am deeply indebted to the Bachelor!

zlnc wrote: Thank you! Succeeded!

It’s my pleasure. this is what it means to apply a vector correctly

zlnc wrote: I am in great debt to the Bachelor!

Yes, investigate what the drill is jammed in. The idea of ​​drilling can be completed. Do not press on the perf and turn off the strike mode for a while. Success PS: You already know how to pull out a jammed drill on the edge

The easiest way is to put the perf on a clean beat, turn it on and shake it A LITTLE to the sides. As a rule, the drill is then simply pulled out by hand.

Kvost wrote: Counterclockwise with a gas wrench.

And not for SDS, but for the body of the Boer himself. With the key of the second number, you can already unscrew the devil from the wall

Serg wrote: With the key of the second number, you can already unscrew the devil from the wall

I saw such broken off boraxes

T283TA wrote: The easiest way is to put a perf on a clean beat

Who.thread will confirm?

T283TA wrote: usually

The bachelor wrote: Saw such broken off drills

The bachelor wrote: Who.thread will confirm?

On the contrary, it clogs in such a way that then you turn the hell out, although I agree that the wedge is the wedge of strife. maybe in another case it will work.

On the contrary, it clogs so that then you turn the hell out, although I agree that the wedge is the wedge of strife. maybe in another case it will work

lahr wrote: Perhaps due to the fact that they knew that the advisor was from Russia.

Well, well, the owner is a master. I never had any problems with such an extraction of jammed drills, the gas wrench was in the same stack with the perforator.

If, after completing these actions, the drill passes through the shank without hindrance, then the rock drill is of high quality. If there is a deformation of the nozzle, then it will be quite easy to pull the drill out of the mechanism. The main thing in this case is to act quickly, otherwise the right moment will be missed. After all, the jam will be serious, and it will take a long time to get the nozzle.

The drill gets stuck due to the use of an expensive and high-quality device together with cheap equipment on a hard surface.

A burr jam in a hammer drill is a common problem faced by every construction worker. It happens for several reasons. Most of the time, sticking occurs due to the use of cheap tools or equipment for them. It is better to play it safe once again and take all possible measures to prevent the problem. If it has already occurred, they try to remove the drill from the perforator using a vice. No need to be afraid of getting stuck! When you can’t get the drill yourself, you should contact the service center for help.

How to remove a broken drill

The drill can not only get stuck in the tool holder, in some cases it breaks. Then only the shank from the nozzle has to be removed from the device. In this situation, thin-nose pliers will help. Ordinary pliers will not cope with the task, since they cannot be opened inside the cartridge.

The pliers should be inserted into the perforator with little force. Then they need to be slightly opened, grab part of the broken off drill and pull it out. You can first remove the rubber band from the tool to make it easier.

If the device has not jammed the shank, then the chuck is pulled towards itself and the crushing mode is activated. The puncher is positioned upside down. Due to the vibrations that have appeared, a piece of drill will fall out on its own. If none of the methods helps, you will have to disassemble the punch.

What to do if the drill gets stuck in the hammer drill?

When, in the process of performing a large amount of work, the drill from the opposite side is riveted, it is not possible to pull it out of the hammer drill freely.

There are two ways to get the drill out of the power tool:

  • A stuck drill must be taken in a vice, while holding the tool in your hands, loosen it to the sides and pull it towards you.
  • In a large vice, using rubber pads, so as not to crush the body, a perforator is clamped. Then the drill is clamped with a small vice and a small hammer is easily struck in the direction directed to the exit of the equipment from the chuck.

In both cases, penetrating solutions can be used.

If you cannot pull the drill directly out of the chuck while turning, then you need to remove the parts of the chuck or try to turn the drill back 90 degrees. Turning it usually results in a complete replacement of the clamping element components.

To avoid problems with the drill jamming, it is better to use high-quality bits of well-known brands. In the process of work, you need to select the appropriate drill for different surface materials.

If attempts to pull the drill out of the device were unsuccessful, then so that the perforator does not finally break down, it is better to seek help from the master.