How To Remove A Cartridge From A Drill Interskol Video
How to remove the chuck from the drill instructions for the keyless and key chuck
The drill in one form or another is ordinary, with a percussion mechanism, a micro-drill (drill) is familiar to almost everyone. During its normal operation, users do not think about how the device works and what parts it disassembles. But in the event of a breakdown, you have to find out what and how it is called and how to remove something for replacement or repair.
We will not talk here about the usual method of action called a scientific tyk, but turn to the point of recommendations.If all this did not help, finally read the instructions.
Can the removed cartridge be disassembled for repair
Not all types of cartridges are collapsible, but conical ones can usually be disassembled.
There is an interesting way to disassemble the cone chuck without barbaric methods such as sawing or cutting an angle grinder.
- The jaws are pulled down inside the cartridge.
- A plate of elastic material of expanded polystyrene foam with a thickness of at least 1520 mm is pressed against the front surface of the cartridge using a board or a thick metal sheet (bar).
- Press the drill itself tightly to a flat surface (table) and turn on the percussion mode. If such a mode is not provided in the tool, the chuck is pre-screwed (removed) from the drill and attached to the hammer drill. After 1015 seconds of operation of the device in shock mode, the cartridge can be disassembled for repair.
Taking into account the fact that after the repair, the functionality of the cartridge is usually not fully restored, it is better to replace the part with a new one with a similar marking. At the same time, it is important to remember: even if it is possible to understand without problems how to remove a cartridge from a Soviet drill of some kind of 50-some year, put on it a new imported production, it may not work out, the coincidence goes both in the diameter of the thread and in its step and type.
As an example, it is shown how to remove the chuck from a Makita drill and what the thread looks like in the connection between the chuck and the shaft.
How to remove a cone chuck from a drill
In such models, it is even easier to remove the cartridge than for a threaded connection. Lubrication also does not hurt, and the main algorithm of action is to tap on the cartridge and after each blow try to turn it. You must first unscrew the fixing screw (here it is with a normal, right, thread).
In some cases, the cartridge grows into the mount so much that it is not possible to remove it if it fails. Various options are offered for removal from the heating of the blowtorch to red, followed by an attempt to still remove, before cutting the cartridge, an angle grinder or other cutting tool. After that, they are removed from the shaft in pieces.
For more information on how to remove the chuck from a Bosch drill and replace it after lubrication, see. Here are the differences in the dismantling process, namely how to remove the cartridge from the Interskol drill.
How to remove the keyless chuck from a threaded drill
A special feature of the threaded connection of the chuck to the shaft is the left-hand thread of the fixing screw. This is done so that, while rotating the drill and biting into the material, the shaft simultaneously tightens the chuck fastening. Therefore, the answer to the question of how to remove a self-tightening chuck from a drill of this type is simply necessary to rotate the chuck, firmly holding the body, clockwise.
Usually, simple rotation is not enough, you have to tap on the joint so that the heavily tightened thread parted slightly and made it possible to freely rotate the connection.
In more detail, the process of how to remove the self-clamping chuck from the drill is shown in.
- Since there is a locking screw inside the chuck, it must be accessed. For this, the jaws (cams) of the chuck are spread as wide as possible, a screwdriver is inserted inside. With a clockwise motion, it is unscrewed from the socket. It is impossible to immediately determine the type of cap, so you must first highlight the inside of the cartridge and, most likely, try two or three different screwdriver bits.
- After removing the screw, the chuck is easily screwed off the shaft.
Some models do not have a locking screw. Then the cartridge is simply screwed, but more effort will have to be made. It is necessary to fix a key or other convenient part in the jaws, and fix the shaft with an open-end wrench.
Next, we rotate the tools in different directions (as shown in the photo).
It helps a lot in the work of the WD40, both the shaft and the fixing screw inside the chuck. This is especially useful if the screw head is clogged and its type (Phillips, straight slot) is not detected. After machining with WD40, the splines are easy to clean and the thread runs better.
Drill device and types of cartridges for it
So, the drill consists of:
- An electric motor creating a rotation movement;
- A mechanism transmitting this rotation to the clamping device;
- And the actual clamping device for the drill. It is this device called the cartridge that interests us.
Before figuring out how to remove the cartridge from the drill, let’s find out what they are, the algorithm of actions depends on it.
The most common gear-crown. To secure it, a special toothed key is used, inserted into the hole on the chuck. The teeth of the key engage with the teeth of the rim of the chuck and, when the key rotates, they strengthen or weaken the clamping of the jaws (cams) of the chuck.
Otherwise, such a chuck is called a drill chuck, and is considered one of the oldest currently used drill clamping mechanisms.
Then there are keyless chucks with one, two couplings, a locking ring. They use collet elements of a conical shape, consisting of three or more parts. Moving along the collet axis, the coupling compresses the petals, thereby securing the drill in them.
Couplings (clips) are metal and plastic, regular or reinforced, with and without automatic locking.
In fact, the drill chuck is a separate unit connected to the main drill mechanism by a shaft. The connection is made using a thread or a tool taper (the so-called Morse taper).
An indication of a particular type of attachment can be found in the instructions and / or on the drill body. For example, the designation 1.5-15M13x1.2 the first two digits mean the permissible diameter of the drill shank (or other tool inserted into the chuck), M13 the diameter of the thread (metric) connecting the chuck to the shaft, and 1.2 is the pitch of this thread. If the designation looks like 1.5-15 UNF 1/2” we are talking about an inch thread. In domestic drills, a metric thread is used, in imported (not all, of course) an inch.
If a cone is used to connect the shaft to the chuck, the letter B is present in the marking (for example, B10 tool cone, shank diameter 10 mm).
Considering that different companies label their products differently, this difference is worth considering. So, for a Makita drill-driver, the marking will look like this: BDF456. There is B, that is, the chuck is fixed on a cone, D is a type of tool, a drill, and F are additional features, in this case a screwdriver.
Consider the models of the most significant manufacturers on the market Bosh, Makita, Interskol which cartridges they use and how to remove these cartridges.
Despite the variety of models of manual drilling and drilling-percussion equipment, replacement or maintenance of the chuck is not particularly difficult. Doing this periodically when you experience run-out, poor drill hold or other problems will significantly extend the life of your tool.
Remove the drill from the jammed chuck
If you are faced with the problem of a jammed drill, then not in all cases removing the chuck is required to remove it. When the drill is jammed in the chuck, you can remove it by using a vice.
The drill must be clamped in a vice in a horizontal position. The drill body must also be secured to keep it stationary. On the surface of the cartridge and the sleeve, you must first knock lightly with a hammer, and then apply strong blows. It is important to hit the sleeve in the direction of the tangent plane. Hammering continues until the drill is disengaged from the chuck.
If the hammer fails to release the drill and unscrew the cams, then a gas wrench can be used. The drill body and the jammed drill are fixed in a vice, and the chuck is turned in the clockwise direction with a gas or pipe wrench. You can also use two pipe wrenches, using one tool to clamp the drill shaft, and the second to try to rotate the clamping element.
Finding out how to fix the cartridge
In order to find out how to fix the chuck on the drill, it is necessary to conduct an external examination. Experts at first glance determine the moment, and for inexperienced craftsmen there is a marking by which one can judge the method of fixing the cartridge to the drill. Examples of markings for tapered and threaded connections are described above.
Mounts: what they are
The clamping mechanism is attached to the drill shaft using the following methods:
An additional set screw is often used in the design of a threaded connection, shown in the photo below. It ensures the reliability of fixing the cartridge.
Threaded connection is provided by means of identical threads on the tool shaft and in the bore of the clamping mechanism. The type of thread used in this connection plays a significant role, and they are metric and inch. The thread used on the drill is indicated by a special abbreviation, which looks like:
The abbreviation stands for the following:
|1.5-15||The first digits of the abbreviation indicate the minimum and maximum diameter of the drills that can be used to clamp with this chuck.|
|M13||The letter designation indicates the use of a metric type of thread, and the number 13 is its diameter in mm|
|1,2||Lead designation in mm|
If the tool uses inch thread markings, then the abbreviation is UNF. In modern models of drills, an inch type of thread is used, since the choice of clamping mechanisms with an inch thread is much more extensive.
The shaft for secure fastening of the clamping mechanism is equipped with a locking screw, which has a left-hand thread. Therefore, unscrewing the screw to remove the cartridge is carried out in the direction of the clockwise movement.
A less common method is to fasten the chuck using a clamping mechanism based on the use of a Morse taper. In this case, the shaft is a cone shape and the clamping mechanism is equipped with a similar shape in the inner bore. The fastening of the mechanism occurs under the influence of the force fitting of the device onto the structure of the electric motor shaft of the tool. Such mechanisms are marked with the following abbreviations: B10, B12, B18, etc.
The letter designation indicates the marking of the cone, and the digital designation is the diameter of the tool tail. The conical connection is as follows, shown in the photo below.
The conical fastening method is more reliable, since it can withstand higher power loads than the first connection option. In addition, it is easy to use: easy to remove and just as easy to slide onto the shaft.
Why you need to remove the cartridge
All drills, screwdrivers and hammer drills for fixing working parts are equipped with chucks, the principle of which is based on a cam mechanism. Bits, drills and other accessories are fixed in the chuck by clamping them between three and sometimes four connecting jaws. The cams are of a tapered design that moves only longitudinally when the adjusting sleeve is turned. There are two types of cartridges:
Quick-release or manual.
Key chucks fix the working tool by using a special key, but on quick-clamping drills, manual efforts are enough to secure the working nozzles. Depending on the quality of production of the drill, as well as the frequency of its use, the service life of the chuck depends. The jaws are worn out, so the chuck is not able to fix the working attachments. The cams cannot be repaired, so the need to remove the chuck is to replace the worn out part and thereby revive the drill.
The chuck is rarely removed from the tool when a drill or bit is jammed in it. Turning the chuck relative to the tool shaft is also a negative consequence, which can only be eliminated by unscrewing the chuck and replacing it with a new one. Both key chucks, in which the jaws have a shorter service life, and key ones, which differ from the first in the maximum tightening force of the working nozzles, are subject to replacement. Impact drills are equipped only with key drums, since fixing the working tool on them is much more reliable.
We put on a new cartridge
After the cartridge has been dismantled, it must be replaced with a new one. To do this, follow these steps:
1) For threaded chuck:
The new cartridge is screwed onto the screw shaft in the clockwise direction;
The screw is tightened in the counterclockwise direction.
It is recommended to lubricate the threaded connections before installing the drum.
2) For taper connection:
Fix the drill in a vice;
Push the chuck onto the shaft;
Using a hammer and mallet, install the part in place.
So, to remove the cartridge from any drill, you need to know the procedure and be able to distinguish the design features of the connections. The only drawback of all these procedures is the need to replace the cartridge with a new one, because worn out parts can no longer be repaired.
What tool is required
To carry out work on dismantling the chuck, replacing it, as well as removing a jammed drill, you will need to make sure that you have the following required tools:
1) Vise and pliers.
2) Hammer and mallet.
3) Spanners and pipe wrenches.
4) Phillips screwdriver.
As you can see, every man has such tools in the garage, so you can remove and replace the cartridge with a drill with your own hands.
The main types of chuck for a drill
By design, drill clamps are divided into two main types:
- Gear chuck, in which the tool shank is clamped using a special key;
- Keyless drill chuck (DRC), in which the clamping sleeve is driven by manual rotation.
Varieties of drill chucks
Clamping jaw chucks, installed on modern drills, allow you to reliably fix tools with a shank diameter in the range of 125 mm. Devices of this type are practically devoid of disadvantages, the most significant of which is their rather high cost.
The most popular type of clamping device installed on modern models of drills is the keyless chuck (BZP). To fix the tool in the BZP category chuck, just a few seconds are enough, and there is no need to use a special key. Clamping of the tool shank is carried out by manual rotation of the adjusting sleeve, on the outer surface of which a corrugation is applied, which facilitates the implementation of this procedure. To regulate the mechanical stress created on the tool shank, this type of clamp has a special locking device.
To fix the drill, hold the lower sleeve with one hand and tighten the upper sleeve clockwise with the other
The most significant disadvantages of the BZP include the fact that in cases where the elements of its mechanism wear out, it does not securely fix the shanks of large-diameter drills. This leads to turning the tool during operation.
Compared to clamping devices of the BZP category, the gear chucks for equipping the drill provide reliable fixation of the tool in any situation. Users who often work with electric drills prefer this type of chuck. The only significant drawback of such devices is that the key with which they are activated is quite easy to lose. Meanwhile, the occurrence of such a problem can be easily avoided if, immediately after purchasing the drill, fix the key on the device wire using insulating tape or ordinary rope.
The diameter of the shank of the bit clamped in the mini-chuck depends on the caliber of the collet
The chuck for mini-drills is also very popular, installed on compact drilling devices. The latter are actively used by jewelers. Mini chuck belongs to the category of keyless chucks for screwdriver or light drill. Such a small chuck, made primarily of brass, is used to hold tools with shank diameters in the range of 0.14.5 mm.
Drill chuck: how to remove, replace, disassemble, photo
Among home craftsmen, the most common chucks for drills are of two types: key (gear-crown) and keyless (BZP). We will try to analyze the features of the operation of these particular cartridges in this article and comprehensively highlight all the main nuances and difficulties of working with them.
The most common for household drills and screwdrivers are girth and keyless chucks.
How to remove a threaded chuck
The question of how to remove the chuck from the drill, which is fixed on it with a threaded connection, arises among DIYers quite often. It is necessary to remove such a clamp taking into account that it is installed using a non-standard left-hand thread.
The threaded element of the clamping device is located in its inner part, therefore, it is necessary to first move the clamping jaws as far as possible, which will provide access to the fixing screw, which is unscrewed with a conventional Phillips screwdriver. In drills without such a screw, the chuck simply twists off their shaft without carrying out the preparatory work described above.
The head of the fixing screw can be Phillips, with a straight slot, for a hexagon or even an asterisk
The screw with a left-hand thread, with which the threaded chuck is fixed to the drill, can wear out over time. To restore the reliability of such a connection, you can do the following:
- Insert a Phillips screwdriver into the head of the chuck screw on the drill;
- Light hammer blows to deepen the screw into the threaded hole.
Such actions will not harm the fastening unit of the drill, but will allow the clamping device to be fixed on it more accurately and reliably.
Replacing the threaded chuck with a drill can also be done with a 14 key, which greatly facilitates this process. In order not to make mistakes when you are going to disassemble a cartridge of this type, you can first get acquainted with the theoretical material on this topic and view the corresponding.
Design and features of the girth gear chuck
The classic drill chuck is a collet or cam type chuck. They can clamp not only various tools with a round shank, but also cylindrical workpieces for their further processing. The main structural elements of chuck chuck are:
- Cylindrical body;
- An adjusting ring or sleeve rotating on the outer surface of the body;
- Cam mechanism or collet mounted inside the body of the device.
The design of the jaw (ring gear) chuck with a key
In turn, the collet mechanism, the elements of which are made of hardened steel, consists of three absolutely identical cams, which, when the adjusting ring or sleeve rotates, simultaneously approach each other, thereby ensuring a reliable clamping of the tool shank. In the first models of chucks for mechanical drills, the collet cams converged due to the rotation of the adjusting wheel, now an adjusting sleeve is used for this.
On one side, the chucks for the drill are installed on the shaft of the equipment used, and on the other, a tool is inserted into them, with which the processing will be performed. Clamping chucks are mainly used for clamping the following tools:
- Small shank taps.
The chuck of the drill is designed for clamping bits with a cylindrical or hexagonal shank
Replacing and disassembling the drill chuck
There is nothing difficult in the question of how to replace a worn out chuck with a drill. To do this, it is enough to purchase an appropriate clamping device, remove the old one from the drill and install a new one on it. It should be borne in mind that two types of cartridges can be installed on both conventional and mini-drills:
- With a conical connection;
Chucks, for installation on a drill of which a thread is used, are removed and fixed according to the above scheme. When replacing such a device, it is not enough to know that it is threaded; it is also important to take into account the markings that are mandatory on it. Such chucks can be marked as follows:
- 1.513 М12х1.25;
- 1.513 1/2 20UNF.
Thread Chuck Marking
The interval of 1.513, present in the designation data, indicates the minimum and maximum diameters of the cutting tool to be installed. The rules for replacing the chuck with a drill suggest that the new clamping device must be marked completely identical to the designation of the old.
With the question of how to replace a cone chuck with a drill, everything is somewhat simpler. Various markings can also be applied to devices of this type, namely:
- AT 10 O’CLOCK;
- AT 12;
Chuck Marking with Morse Taper
To replace this type of chuck with a drill, you just need to select a clamping device with the appropriate marking and insert its seat into the tapered hole of the drilling equipment. It is quite simple to navigate in such a marking: the letter B means that this is a cone type cartridge, and the number indicates the diameter of the lower part of the bore.
Removing the cone chuck from the drill is as easy as installing it. In order to perform such a procedure, you just need to knock out the clamping device from the drill bore, for which a conventional hammer is used. The details of installing and removing the cone chuck of an electric drill can also be found by looking at the corresponding.
On Soviet drills, the cartridge with a cone mount simply knocked out, the design of the gearbox allowed such rudeness. To remove the cartridge of modern models, you need to use pullers or special tools
How to disassemble the chuck of a screwdriver or drill? This procedure must be performed periodically for maintenance of the device (cleaning and lubricating all its internal elements), as well as minor repairs. This significantly extends the life of the chuck.
When disassembling a cartridge, you should consider what type it belongs to. Focusing on the instructions or, it is necessary to perform all actions for disassembling such a device as carefully as possible so as not to damage its constituent elements. After all the procedures for maintenance or repair of the elements of the drill chuck have been completed, reassemble it in the reverse order.