How to remove the blade from a Bosch lawnmower
How to sharpen lawn mower blades yourself? Sharpening the blade! The finer points of working with a lawn mower Do I have to sharpen the blades on my lawn mower?
should be performed at the first signs of malfunctioning. This can be indicated by unevenly mowed grass, bushes uprooted, longer tool run times, increasing fuel consumption. Unlike the grass mower, which tried to work in the early morning, on the dew, the mechanized tool is desirable to work with dry grass. Wet grass clogs the housing and other cavities faster and more densely. Therefore, in case of abnormal operation of the tool, it is first necessary to clean the guard from adhered residues. After cleaning, the cutting edges of the blades should be inspected and the need for sharpening determined.
Unlike a grasshopper, which you tried to work with early in the morning, a lawnmower should preferably work with dry grass.
Some mower manufacturers do not recommend that you turn the tool upside down so that the oil in the sump does not get into the piston. There are two solutions to this problem:
Most tools can be tilted to the side of the handles to move, having previously removed the grass collector. The space created is usually sufficient for cleaning and accessing the blades. On electrified tools and trimmers with all types of drives, the blades can be removed in any convenient position after cleaning. When removing the blades from any tool, the necessary safety precautions must be taken to prevent unintentional start-up of the machine. If the tool does not have a rotation lock feature, lock the shaft in any way possible. You can use a piece of wood of the desired size as a support for the blade.
Functions of the blade in the lawnmower
The blade for a lawnmower performs the function of mowing the grass. Blades made of stainless steel. The sharpening of the blade affects the performance of work. The sharp blade cuts the plants evenly. Blunt. leaves a fringe on them, that is, the cut of each blade of grass is cut perpendicular to the surface into several parts. This happens if you cut the grass with your hands. As a result, grass cut accurately and evenly already the next day tightens the cut. Such a lawn looks attractive and striking. In the second case, the area in front of the house is a dirty-green color. The cuttings only take 10 to 18 days to heal.
Please note! An additional function of the blade in a lawnmower is to create an air flow during rotation, which allows the plants to be carried into the grass box. For this purpose the blades often have several special serrations.
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Sharpening a lawn mower blade from Lenfilm Studios
We did our best. If you are not very happy, check out our website. There we broke down the “flights” of detail.
Reasons to remove the blade
Among the common reasons for removing or replacing a cutting element are the following:
When the knife is dull, bent or deformed, the lawn looks unkempt after mowing. A competent sharpening will fix the situation.
Professionals recommend to have this procedure done once a year. This is best done in the spring, before starting work. If the cutting elements blunt faster, however, sharpen them more often.
If the blade shows chips, cracks, or if it has worn down and become thin, then it needs to be replaced. There is no point in sharpening such a tool. over, the blade can break at any time and fly out from under the machine body, injuring people or animals nearby. Such a device can also cause damage to the engine. It is allowed to change the element with a similar model. The characteristics of the blade specified in the manual.
If there is no suitable product in the store, you can always buy a blade of shorter length. In this case, to tidy up the lawn will take a little more time than before. But that’s not a problem, compared with the fact that the wrong blade is sometimes impossible to fix to the garden machine reliably. Then the way out. universal lawn mower blades. These are blades, which come with adapters, bolts, washers, etc. The blades themselves have several attachment options. As a result, the cutting elements can be fixed on completely different models.
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Bosch Rotak 37 LI how to change the blade on a lawn mower
Bosch Rotak 37 LI how to change the blade on a lawnmower.
Tatyana65, I have a lawn mower Honda, it was the fourth year. It is accompanied by a detailed annotation on sharpening the blade. larix wrote all correctly. Though it is safer and more convenient to take off the blade, which by the way is fastened with 2 screws. Check the balance by “hanging out” with a screwdriver.
Naturally, you should not, if possible, run over rocks and other objects. it really spoils the knife.
I have MTD. I got the blade at the gardening equipment store in Novolazanskaya Street.
I always sharpen my own knives. it’s too far from service-center, but the sharpener is nearby. Previous relatively low-powered electronic mower had to grind often, otherwise shredded edges of grass. The stronger gasoline one has been sharpened once a season so far. it seems to have “pressure”. The 1 st time to remove the knife was very difficult. was stuck or what, but the husband only the third run special. unscrewed with a wrench. And on the electronic one I can use pliers without hassle.
Took a spare mower in Lawnmower, but spouse removed the old and sharpened, worked for a while, secretly hoping that the mower will unbalance and I buy the newest. nothing came out, until now use the old, and not less than 4 years. already bored.
To some extent, the danger of a little imbalance is a myth. Look at the knife, it is so not know what films stick to it, and not moderately. And nothing harmful happens.
But if you take it off and grind it on a sharpener, you will get unbalanced for sure.
Personally I either sharpen with a diamond razor (not bad for tool steel and removes the minimum). Or, if I run a very other words mini drill like Dremel, it is also very carefully can be sharpened. You don’t have to sharpen it to knife sharpness, the main thing is to have an obvious angle, not circularity.
What prevents to check the balance, putting the knife by the central hole on the stick. if it is even, it is balanced, if one side is pulling down. it is unbalanced and needs to be removed a little. Of course, with this method knives sharpen more quickly. but it seems to me, buy a pair of spare and replace them as you wear. economically profitable than to drag every time to the service at the other end of town and pay for grinding (the only time I did so, with me took 300, it was 5 years ago). You just need to calculate how much is the knife and how much. trips to the shop.
I don’t like sharpening with grinder or bar. it is long and boring, it is really time-consuming. You can meditate on other work, like weeding, for example. ? IMHO
Vasya, I also do not sharpen the knives, and change, but about the imbalance still say. Putting a knife on the stick and aligning it, you get only the static balance, the dynamic balance is impossible to check at home, and specifically it gives the most adverse effects on the motor.
Rom165, I’d like to clarify. I just turn knives. but myself, with an electric grinder. And as for the rest I agree. the electronic mower has been in use for 6 years, it has already worn out the body (plastic). but it worked well and was given away “in good hands” after the acquisition of petrol in working order. Over the years, 2 blades were used interchangeably, and did not have time to grind with the grinder before discarding. And mowed a lot. a hundred and twelve acres of grass. I don’t know if it was imbalanced or not. ?
I report. to me at work, our craftsmen sharpened the blade, checked for imbalance, gave it and said. use it ? I watched them sharpening, so that I could sharpen my own knives later. I know how to use an electric grinder. And sharpening knives was so easy that I and the husband do not even bother ?
How to protect yourself from costly lawnmower engine repair?
The preparation consists of shungite carbon, which reacts redox when heated.
Thanks to activation of micro-metallurgical processes a metal-shungite-carbon layer is formed. It optimizes the clearances, eliminates wear and tear. As a result, the risk of jamming at “oil starvation” (occurs on hills with a slope of 25°) is reduced, gasoline consumption drops by 5-15% on average, the nominal dimensions of parts are restored, power and efficiency grows.
Most lawn mowers are equipped with Honda or Briggs Stratton two-stroke motors. Refer to the following chart when selecting a repair and repair compound for them:
For 50cc engines. see. RVS Master 2 Strock Engine 2T 50cc
For 200cc engines. see. RVS Master 2 Strock Engine 2T 200cc
For 400cc motors. see. RVS Master 2 Strock Engine 2T 400cc
Instructions for use
Note: The four-stroke high horsepower lawnmower engines are treated with the standard RVS Master Engine. For example, if the oil tank capacity is 0.6 liters, as in the Briggs Stratton 950E Series, 1/5 bottle of RVS Master Engine Ga3 (instruction manual) is sufficient.
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Gasoline and electric lawn mower design
Lawn mowers are a popular choice for cutting grass and giving it a nice, tidy appearance. They are a means of small-scale mechanization. The grass is cut with blades driven by motors of different systems, or by shears, which are set in motion by the physical effort of the operator. Blades form a fairly strong air flow, because of this, the mowed grass pieces fall into the grass catcher.
Common design elements of models with different drives
Classify all the variety of models offered on the market according to three main criteria:
According to the latter criterion, the following varieties of grass mowing equipment are distinguished:
Mechanical mowers have a simple design, and are set in motion by human power.
The gasoline engines and the electric grass shears are made up of the following common constructional elements:
- Plastic, aluminum or steel body;
- Power unit with different capacities: combustion engine with vertical shaft or electric motor;
- grass catcher box, a container for collecting grass clippings during mowing, which can be fitted on the side or rear of the lawnmower;
- lever and control buttons (starter system);
- grass ejection unit;
- platforms with wheels and handle (handle).
The design of the lawnmower, running on gasoline, is shown schematically in the photo below.
The design of the electric model is shown in the photo below.
the cheapest is the plastic housing, and the most durable is aluminum. Grass containers come in plastic or fabric (of synthetic origin). There are models that do not have wheels, which move on air cushions. Many lawn mowers also have a mulching knife, which crushes the cut grass.
Features of different types of devices
Technique with a gasoline engine has such different design nodes:
- fuel tank;
- piston system;
- air filter;
- fuel supply and ignition systems.
Electric models have a power lead that connects to the domestic power grid. To connect, you often have to use an extension cord.
Gasoline and electric machines come in two types:
Self-propelled devices are additionally equipped with an electric motor and its control system (on/off). Some mower models do not have a grass catcher box. The cut grass is thrown to the side.
The manual versions of petrol and electric lawnmowers also include grass trimmers. Their construction differs from the usual wheeled models. The construction elements of brushcutters are shown on the photo below.
Among machines powered by electricity, a separate group allocate battery-powered models. In them, the source of electricity is a battery block, which periodically needs to be charged from the stationary supply network of 220 V. Working time of such machines is determined by the capacity of batteries installed.
High-tech robotic mowers that mow the grass on their own, without human involvement, have recently emerged that are powered by electricity. Various sensors, in addition to the main units, are built in. Built-in sensors help with spatial awareness and react to rain.
Gasoline powered machines are more powerful and mobile than machines with an electric motor. But due to the fact that they have vertical motors, these machines can only be used for a long time in areas with an incline not exceeding 15 degrees. Short-term inclination of the equipment at an angle of 25 degrees is allowed.
Due to the use of different types of drive, in addition to those discussed, also differ in smaller parts of designs.
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Review: Bosch Rotak 32 Electric Lawnmower. Justified in the work on the garden plot.
Good day, my dear readers. I want to share with you my impression of the electric mower: Bosch Rotak 32 from the famous German manufacturer, assembled by English. I hope that my review, although I write it a little late. will publish.I bought it in June 2011 and it serves me well to this day, very practical and reliable assistant in maintaining the lawn in good condition. My lawn is about 3 acres.The manual is printed in 27 languages, I think that also says a lot.
The kit includes: the lawnmower itself with a handle, the bottom part of the handle, 2 screws, 2 wing nuts, a grass catcher box and an owner’s manual. So when buying, check carefully.Looks pretty nice and pleasing to the eye. Picture without the grass catcher box and with the grass catcher box installed.
As I said, it comes with a grass catcher box. It consists of two parts, which are fastened on plastic latches and fairly easy to assemble and disassemble. It is very convenient for transportation.
It is equipped with a sturdy handle that allows you to carry it comfortably, both with and without grass. When servicing, it is quite easy to remove, just squeeze the latches and pull it towards you.
The handle is foldable and is very easy to transport. It is fastened in the mounted condition with two wing screws.Handle can be adjusted to suit your height.
The electric motor is well protected by a cover with ventilation holes to prevent overheating.
Also the handle is quite solid and robust, allowing you to easily carry the mower. For maintenance. As with the grass catcher box handle, it can be removed very easily. You squeeze the latches and pull it towards you.
To maintain the engine and its vicinity, simply remove the cover and use a rag, a wooden scraper and a brush. Remove grass and dust residues. It is not recommended to wash the unit with water, but you can wipe the plastic parts with a damp rag.
There is a metal plate inserted in the front of the mower for weighting. And that’s not unimportant because the mower is lightweight.
It comes with a two-blade hard steel blade that allows you to mow without sharpening. up to 15 hours. Some media reports have suggested that the knife. self-sharpening. do not believe it, you need to sharpen the blade. This is what it looks like:
To remove it you will need a simple socket wrench, which also comes with.
A Phillips screwdriver is shown next to this wrench, which will allow you to easily remove the engine compartment cover.I would like to point out that when sharpening the knife, special attention must be paid to the even sharpening of the cutting blades. Because if you don’t. the blade is out of balance and will vibrate, which can have serious consequences. After sharpening, be sure to check the balance, it is checked simply: on the plate, clamped in a vice, 1 mm thick, set, observing the centering of the knife. If one of the sides is too high. we remove it by grinding down the corresponding side of the knife. The knife comes off quite easily. socket wrench, little effort and the screw is unscrewed, the blade is easily removed. Don’t loose screw and washer.
After cleaning, maintaining and sharpening the knife. Put it back in its place. Washer, screw and clamp firmly, there should be no wobbling of the knife.
This mower has a three level mowing system: 20, 40 and 60 mm.If you are not satisfied with this height. you can dream up. Personally I like the cutting height of 30mm, that’s why I put 10 mm spacer under the blade and set the height to 20mm. As a result, you can use the four options: 20, 30, 40 and 60mm, so the truth is only on a fairy tale.Adjust the cutting height by shifting the wheel axle. pull it toward you and put it in the correct slot, and so on all four wheels. do not twist it in a hurry.
This lawnmower. not self-propelled, so to change the direction of movement. it is necessary to lift the front wheels, lowering the handle.It’s very handy to mow along the fence and around bushes and flower beds, as it has a side rake.
My Review: The Bosch Rotak 43 Li cordless mower blade. The second most important part of the mower after the motor.
Bosch sells its cordless mowers in a complete set, the knife is in the machine. But if I have to mow a lot, and I have to mow a lot, this is my job, I need to take care of buying spare blades. parts.
When I bought my first season with the Bosch Rotak 43 Li cordless mower, I decided to go straight for the replacement blade. I looked what is available in our online stores and saw that the for blades for this mower vary significantly. There are 20 euro blades and there are 30 euro blades. But, except for some minor external differences (some blades with teeth on the edges, others without), why such a spread in prices, I could not understand. Decided. the magazines are screwed on. It turns out that there is a difference.
Now I know that I have to pay attention to the product code. That’s the serrated blade that came with my lawn mower.
And I decided to save money and bought this knife.
It turned out that the quality of steel in it is somewhat worse, it rusts, and, as it seemed to me, the steel is less strong. I ran the mower into an “iceberg”. Rocks just lying in the grass are not so dangerous. It’ll bounce off, and all. The nicks on the knife, of course, will remain. But, the workshop will sharpen the knife afterwards normally. And the “iceberg” is a stone that has “grown” into the ground and only a small part of it sticks out on the surface. High grass, unfamiliar terrain, and the sun was blinding. I “screwed up” the knife. It bent, the machine began to vibrate terribly and that was the end of my work day. Luckily the mower was not damaged and when I installed another blade, there was no more vibration. I don’t buy any more knives with the code F016800278.
I buy the more expensive ones with the code F016800369.
In addition to the blade itself there is a spare bolt with a washer in the kit.
it is far from being a flat iron, in addition to the hole in the center for the blade itself there are two more holes. Their purpose is not clear to me. But I don’t think Bosch made them for beauty. blades have a certain bend, the knife in rotation creates a powerful vortex, which attracts like a vacuum cleaner mowed grass and even debris, if it was in the grass. The blade is not sharpened along its entire length, but only at 68 mm. on either side.
The knife is not rusty, the steel quality is better. I don’t know why, but the drawings indicate that this blade is only suitable for Rotac 43 cordless mowers, it won’t fit simple electric mowers.
The information on the package duplicates some of the items in the lawnmower manual. A reminder is never superfluous. For example, about following safety rules, about the size of the wrench you need to screw the knife on, and about the fact that you should never pour oil on the threads.
In general, if you decide to buy a lawnmower Bosch Rotak 43 Li, be sure to buy a reserve blade right away, because in the process of work can happen anything. I would not discourage you from buying a cheaper knife, it is quite serviceable. But if the terrain of the site is complex, it is better not to save on the knife.
First of all, it is advisable to remove the blade from the mower.
It is not safe to lift the machine on a car trestle, drive it in a ditch or hang the mower without removing the blade. It can start when you accidentally press or hit the start button, pull the starter cord, or the unit isn’t quite in working order.
- The manual method of sharpening knife blades is to use a sharpening stone and sandpaper without any motors or machines. Alignment of the jagged and battered blade with a hammer or sledgehammer is made on an anvil, rail or a bar of black rolled steel.
- Mechanized method, although augmented by “forge” machining, requires sharpening on an angle grinder, saw, or drill. The last two options will require a special nozzle on which the grinding disc is put.
The mower blade is sharpened evenly and over the whole length of the (each) tip. To avoid breaking the ball bearings in the motor or the gearbox, it is best to have the blade centred by a turner on the sharpening machine. But even without a lathe, the result is also quite decent.
The purpose of the sharpening directly is the elimination of small edge chips and bringing the descent into one straight plane. The “saw” on the blade leads to a rapid decrease in sharpness, and with a rounded trigger, there is too much impact on the cut stalks. In addition, a mower blade with a rounded shape gets dirty much faster.
Sharpening the blade is best done by flat emery board with grit about 400-600 grits, more “delicate” stones do not make much sense. Soak the block in soapy water for 10-15 minutes and periodically wet it during sharpening. Sharpening knife also on the grain with a slight pull of the stone from the center of the sharpened area to the edge.
When sharpening, try to keep the same stone position to maintain a constant angle. As with the flank, sharpening should be carried out so that an equal amount of metal is removed from opposing blades. This condition, however, does not have to be strictly observed when sharpening four-blade knives.
The direct purpose of the sharpening is to eliminate fine chipping of the edge and to bring the blade in a straight line. A “file” on the blade causes a quick drop in sharpness, and with a rounded trigger there is too much stress on the cut stalks. In addition, a blade that is rounded will get dirty much faster.
It is best to sharpen the blade with a flat emery stone with grit about 400-600 grits, more “delicate” stones do not make much sense to use. Soak the stone in soapy water for 10-15 minutes and periodically wet it during sharpening. You should also sharpen the knife on a grain with a slight pulling of the bar from the center of the ground area to the edge.
When sharpening, try to keep the same stone position to keep the angle constant. As with the removal of the chamfers, the sharpening should be carried out with the condition that the opposite blades have the same amount of metal removed. This does not, however, have to be observed for four-blade knives.
After the blades are sharpened, they must be corrected. It is made by means of a piece of water proof sandpaper of about 600-800 grits. Moisten the paper with water and roll it into a cylinder 100-150 mm in diameter.
The purpose of resharpening is to remove even the smallest burrs and burrs that could cause the thinnest part of the blade to wrap up. Rolled in the cylinder, the sandpaper should be slightly pressed to the plane of the descent and pulled through in a smooth motion from the grain. It is also recommended to make a smooth shift from the center to the edges.
All manipulations were performed on only one side of the blade when sharpening and chamfering. During the straightening process, the knife is also machined on the back side. Here the paper is pressed almost exactly against the blade body, but with a slight tilt towards the edge. The pressing force of the paper during straightening is quite small, but it is necessary to make a lot of movements, achieving the elimination of large ribs on the shining escapement, which were left after sharpening.
To sharpen a lawnmower knife, you can also peel off by analogy with an ordinary handheld scythe. this, however, requires a special device. headstock. as well as specific skill. But this sharpening method does not require you to balance the blade.
Sharpening of cutting elements is organized as needed. Many people ask: “Do you need to sharpen a new knife??” Answer. no. These items are sharpened at the factory. Purchasing a garden tool can be used without the additional work of removing and sharpening the blades.
There are two ways to sharpen the cutting element of a lawn mower:
In the first case, work is organized if the blades are in relatively good condition and only dull. Usually this sharpening is used if the owner sharpened the cutting elements of their garden tool several times during the season. If so, this will be enough to go over the edge of the file and fix them.
During operation, curvature and roughness of the blade are eliminated. It is important to maintain the factory sharpening and descent angles. Both sides (blades) are evenly ground. The sharpener is held in the same position. No imbalance can be achieved whereby the blades cannot achieve consistent operation. Such a problem will lead to operational wear of the assemblies (bearings).
After the basic sharpening, you need to straighten the edges. This is done to eliminate the smallest rips. It is best to use 800 grit sandpaper. Editing. Is a slight shift of the paper along the plane of the descent.
Note! You can use a sanding disc instead of a file. It is soaked for a quarter of an hour in soap and water before the procedure. The tool can also moisten the tool slightly while working.
A machine will help you get the job done quickly and effortlessly. The main thing in this matter is not to get too sharp angles. If you sharpen them like a fine razor, there is a high risk of chipping and breaking.
When working, it is important to maintain the correct angle and remove the metal from the blades in equal amounts. The machine does not eliminate sanding edges.
Before installing the blade on the gardening tools, a balance check is done. It is designed to find out if the blades of the knife have the same weight. To do this, apply a sharp strip with a center hole on the pencil. The shoulders should be evenly balanced and have equal weight. If one side is lowered, it is again slightly crushed.
After the blade is sharpened, it should be put back. Installing the cutting elements is not very difficult. The key. follow the rules:
- Determine what position you were in before.
- Secure it in the same position with a new or old bolt, washer and nut.
- Do not pull on the nuts. This will deform the cutter.
- Wear thick gloves when working on your hands. It is important to remember that upgraded blades are sharp.
- Once the mower is in its normal position on the ground, it is not recommended to turn it on immediately. You need to wait an hour for the oil to come off the walls of the crankcase.
Even a novice gardener can figure out how to remove a cutting element from a lawn mower. However, when you sharpen yourself, you need to be very careful not to hurt yourself or remove too much metal by thinning the knife.