How to remove the chuck from a Bosch drill
Instruction for the novice craftsman: how to remove a chuck from a drill or screwdriver
Regardless of the fact that the designs of cartridges for rotating mechanisms screwdrivers are quite similar, they are commonly subdivided into several types:
The first two types have a similar structure and design. The second option is considered automatic and begins to function as soon as the chuck is inserted into the device. As for the differences in the number of clutches, the use of one-ft designs is rational only on models that have a locking. They are clamped with one hand.
The double-clutch chuck for high-powered drills or screwdrivers is suitable if the tool is not designed with a locking mechanism. You have to use two hands to fix the nozzle. Quick-action and self-clamping screwdriver chucks are used on modern machines. For example, those that have a pneumatic operating mechanism.
Key types of nozzles are suitable for somewhat older models of electrical equipment, but they are considered times more reliable, as they are resistant to serious shock loads. This type of socket is also suitable for appliances that are used regularly and for prolonged periods of time.
Screwdriver bit mounts
The type of fastening also influences the way in which the screwdrivers are used. When there is a conflict of mechanisms, it can be a problem to properly screw the screws into a hard surface. That is why it is advisable to buy screwdriver cartridges that can be screwed together with the screwdriver.
The “Cone Morse” type
This version of the fastener has been used on the rotary appliance for decades. It can rightly be considered one of the most popular. If you look closely at the design, its shaft resembles a cone, exactly the same as the chuck. Thanks to their identical base, two parts can easily be joined together by hand. This is the mechanism used with all pneumatic screwdrivers.
This type of connection is the presence of larger and smaller threads on the shaft and the chuck, which fit together. The base of the cylinder is screwed onto the shaft.
The screw provides for the presence of a cross head, which can be seen by pulling apart the cams. The screw fasteners have a Phillips head and left-hand threading organized. Such a screw is easily unscrewed with an ordinary flat screwdriver, provided that its size corresponds to the diameter of the inlet hole.
Do not try to hollow out the screwdriver to remove the screw (if it has this method of attachment) immediately after use. At this point, the tool is very hot, so it may jam. A screwdriver will only “slip off” the edge.
How to determine the method of attachment on your tool
Studying the working mechanism of the chuck and the head of the power tool itself will help you quickly figure out how the moving structure is attached. Look carefully at the marking that is shown on the body of the instrument or on the removable head itself. It usually has the following symbols on it: 1-6 B10 where:
As for the threaded connection, its marking usually looks like this: 1.0-11 M12×125. Where M12×125 is the metric thread parameters, and 1.0-11 is the limit tool dimensions that can be fixed in the chuck. Note that if you purchased a foreign-made device, then all the figures should be translated into inches, while the domestic devices are measured in mm.
Basic types of drill chucks
By design, drill clamps are divided into two main types:
- Tooth-ring chuck in which the tool shank is clamped by means of a special wrench;
- Quick-action drill chuck (QAU), in which the clamping sleeve is actuated by its manual rotation.
Clamping cam chucks, installed on modern drills, allow you to reliably fix the tool, the diameter of the shank of which is in the range of 1-25 mm. Devices of this type are practically devoid of disadvantages, the most significant of which is their rather high cost.
The most popular type of clamping device installed on modern models of drills, is a quick-action chuck (HAC). Only takes a few seconds to engage the tool in the drill chuck and no special wrench is needed. Tool shank is locked in place by manually rotating a sleeve, which is fluted on the outside surface of the sleeve to make this procedure easier. This type of clamping mechanism has a special locking device to regulate the mechanical impact on the tool shank.
To fix the drill bit, hold the lower coupling with one hand and tighten the upper coupling clockwise with the other hand
The most significant disadvantage of the drill bit shank is that when the elements of its mechanism wear out, it does not securely lock the shank of large-diameter drills sufficiently. This causes the tool to rotate during operation.
Compared to the clamping devices of the category BZP, gear-type chucks for drill bits ensure reliable fixation of the tool in any situation. Users who have to work frequently with electric drills, give preference to this type of chucks. The only significant disadvantage of such devices is that the key with which they are actuated is quite easy to lose. Meanwhile, the occurrence of such a problem can be easily avoided if, immediately after the purchase of the drill, to secure the key on the wire of the device with insulating tape or an ordinary rope.
The diameter of the shank of the bit to be clamped in the mini chuck depends on the caliber of the collet
The mini drill chuck for compact drills is also very popular. The latter are actively used by master jewelers. The mini chuck belongs to the category of quick-action chucks for electric screwdrivers and light drills. Such a small chuck, made mainly of brass, is used for fixing tools, the shank diameter of which is in the range of 0.1-4.5 mm.
Classification of cartridges
There are several varieties of these:
With quick-change chucks, the bit or drill can be changed in seconds without the need for any tools. They are divided into single and double clutch types.
In the latter version, in order to attach the drill, you have to hold the sleeve with one hand, and with the other. to screw the other. Single-jaw chucks have a shaft-locking system that is triggered when you change tooling. Minus of such products. the low strength of fixing drills. In addition, the use of plastic components greatly increases the risk of damage to the cartridge.
On impact drills and peorators, it is better to put cam chucks. They are stronger and are therefore often used in hard applications. No plastic elements are installed in such products, and tool fastening is performed with a special key.
You can also find collet SDS chucks, which were created in the 70s of the last century. There are two slots in the shank of this design with a size of 10mm.
With this system, part of the drill bit has to be screwed into the chuck by 40 mm. It is fixed by locking balls. In addition, the design has 4 grooves, 2 of which are fixing, and the rest are used for guiding wedges. The spindle of the device equipped with this design is automatically blocked immediately after installation.
Basic types of drill chucks
By design, drill clamps are divided into two main types:
- Tooth-ring chuck in which the tool shank is clamped by means of a special key;
- The quick-action drill chuck (QAJ), in which the jaw is actuated by turning it manually.
Clamping jaw chucks, installed on modern drills, allow you to reliably fix the tool, the shank diameter of which is in the range of 1-25 mm. This type of device has practically no drawbacks, the most important of which is their rather high cost.
The most popular type of clamping device installed on modern models of drills is the quick-clamping chuck (QCL). It only takes a few seconds to clamp the tool in the chuck of the double chuck and no special key is needed. The tool shank is held in place by manually rotating a sleeve, which is fluted on its outside surface to make this procedure easier. This type of clamping mechanism has a special locking device to regulate the mechanical action on the tool shank.
To fix the drill, hold the lower sleeve with one hand and tighten the upper sleeve clockwise with the other
The most significant disadvantages of clamping chucks are that they are not sufficiently reliable in holding the shank of large-diameter drills when the elements of the mechanism are worn out. This leads to turning of the tool in the process of work.
Compared to clamping devices of the category BZP, toothed chain-drive chucks ensure reliable fixation of the tool in any situation. Users, who have to work often with an electric drill, give preference to clamping chucks of this type. The only significant disadvantage of these devices is that the key with which they are actuated is quite easy to lose. This problem, however, can easily be avoided by securing the key to the cord of the drill immediately after purchase with insulation tape or a normal rope.
The diameter of the shank of the bit being clamped in the mini chuck depends on the caliber of the collet
The mini drill chuck is also very popular with compact drill presses. The latter are actively used by masters of jewelry. The mini chuck belongs to the category of quick-action chucks for electric screwdriver or light drill. Such a small chuck, made mainly of brass, is used for fixing tools, the shank diameter of which is in the range of 0.1-4.5 mm.
Other problems during disassembly
Sometimes there are other problems during disassembling. For example, if the drill chuck jams. You have to disassemble the mechanism and perform a complete cleaning, lubrication. Especially this kind of trouble appears after drilling the ceiling. Dirt gets inside the chuck. In this case it can jam.
If the chuck does fly off, it’s necessary to increase the tension in the cone connection. To do this, heat up the mechanism to 110ºC in the oven. After that, it is installed on a cold seat. After such a procedure, the chuck will not fly off.
Run-out during tool operation can also occur. It occurs due to wear of the tapered base or uneven breakage of the cam surfaces. In this case, it is necessary to replace the old elements of the system.
Having considered how to change the chuck on the drill, almost every master will be able to repair the tool to continue repair or construction work.
An electric drill is an indispensable tool in the arsenal of a craftsman or a specialist. This equipment makes it possible to drill holes of different thicknesses. There are a number of types of such devices. During the long term of work, the equipment can break, and the most frequent “problematic” part is the chuck. Therefore, you should know how to replace a chuck for a drill, so that in case of breakdown you will not be without a tool.
In the case of the SDS-patron on the peorator order of action is as follows:
- the rubber seal is removed;
- Use a flat screwdriver to remove the first retaining ring and washer;
- the second ring is removed after lowering the cover down in the same way as for changing the nozzle;
- the coupling guard is removed;
- SDS is disassembled in sequence (be sure to damage nothing): ball, washer, spring.
How to change the chuck on the peorator is simple. it is removed by analogy with the device for the drill on the threaded connection.
Reassemble the tool in reverse order. It is worth noting that the above procedures are not only necessary to repair or replace the chuck on the torch or drill. It is also important for the purpose of maintenance and inspection of the serviceable tool.
The basics at a glance
For the drill and peorator different in design chucks are used.
There are two ways to fasten the cartridges to the machine tool shaft: by screwing them together or by using a tapered connection (Morse taper).
Dismantling of clamping devices is performed in the same sequence as installation.
Know the procedure not only for the replacement or repair of a defective chuck, but also for its periodic maintenance and inspection.
For professionals, replacing or repairing the cartridge is not difficult. But what to do for those who are not engaged in construction and repair at a professional level?? Since any man in his life at least once held in his hands a drill, he should be aware of the removal process, as well as its replacement chuck. In this case, the causes can range from a slow rim to a major breakdown of the. How to change a chuck on a peorator? Let’s consider the replacement in detail.
The first step is to determine which cartridge is used directly in your peorator. They come in cam, collet SDS and quick-clamp. The latter, in turn, come in single- and double-headed. In a cam chuck the drill is fixed with a wrench, which can not be said about the collet SDS and quick-clamping. In order to change the drill bit in an SDS collet chuck, you only need to twist it.
Chuck replacement on the peorator begins with the study of fasteners. It can be held in place by a twist pin or a spindle. In most cases it is not difficult to remove the chuck. Sometimes, however, you find a tighter fit, which requires patience and additional tools. Simply put, a screwdriver, spanner and hammer are used to remove the cartridge when it is hard and tightly fixed. The removal process is as follows:
Design of the chuck
Virtually any construction tool is versatile, and peorators are no exception. There are many different nozzles, adapters, cartridges. The chuck is the basis for all kinds of work. The peorator adapter is used to fit a drill that has been removed from a conventional drill. Nozzles and drills come in a huge variety and are chosen according to the task at hand.
Always keep a removable chuck for your rotary tool at home because one can fail at any time. It is also worth noting that for each type of work it is preferable to use different chucks. The main types of chucks include:
Amateurs often wonder why so many varieties of chucks are needed. Recall that there are bigger and smaller chucks. If the tool is powerful, you need to think about a secure attachment of the drill and bits. Such chuck as SDS-max is designed for deep seating, which means the probability that the drill bit will fly off during the work is minimized. Same with the less powerful torches, which are designed for “jewel-like” work. in this case more emphasis is placed on precision, not on fixation.
To know how to repair a rotary tool chuck, you must know its design. But how is the chuck of the peorator designed??
At one time the drill was held in place by sliding cams, but progress has been made. The SDS drill bits are fixed by 2 chucks and 2 stop balls. SDS-plus and SDS-max differ only in the number of guide wedges (the latter has 1 more). Thus, the fastening is very reliable and fast.
fixing the bit has also become easier: just insert the selected bit in the socket of the chuck and wait for a “click. Therefore, the bit is very well fixed. Drill bit removal is also no problem: Just press the sliding cover and the drill bit is extracted.
How to choose a new chuck
The chuck for an electric screwdriver is selected on the basis of a number of aspects. When selecting a suitable part, you should be guided by the following recommendations:
- if the bits have to be changed frequently, it is better to choose quick- or self-clamping cylinders; otherwise the work is slower;
- toothed-ring design is a choice of those who seek maximum reliability of the chuck; if one hundred percent chuck retention is a priority, it is better to buy a key chuck;
- when selecting a part, its characteristics must be taken into account; the parameters are governed by the relevant GOSTs; the larger the taper, the larger the number by which it is marked;
- It is necessary to take into account the country of manufacture. the alphanumeric designations of foreign models differ from domestic ones.
If it is difficult to determine the type of “clamp” on your own, it is better to consult a specialist.
Incorrect choice is tantamount to at least incorrect operation of the tool.
In the worst case, not only could you spend again on a new cylinder, but also replace the entire electric screwdriver.
Chuck removal: Makita electric screwdriver
Makita brand power tools are usually equipped with a threaded mount with an auxiliary fixation by means of a left-hand threaded screw.
- Unscrew the fixing screw (clockwise).
- Activate the spindle stop button.
- Wrap a thick cloth around the body and squeeze in a vise.
- Clenched hexagon in the cams.
- By hitting the free plane of the wrench with a hammer, the chuck is turned and then removed from the shaft.
What to do if the faces of the chuck retaining screw are worn off?
What to do if the faces of the screw head inside the chuck are slipping? A very common problem, but very real to solve. First, let’s look at the reasons why the screw faces are slipping on the screw:
- Without reading the instructions, the owner tries to unscrew the screw counterclockwise. If there is a screw inside, it must be turned clockwise to unscrew it, i.e. the other way around
- Improperly selected tool, that is, a screwdriver is used with slits that slip the edges of the screw. The screwdriver should be selected as correctly as possible before use
- Poor quality screw. It usually happens with cheap Chinese devices
However, if the edges of the screw have slipped off, do not rush to change the tool. There are different ways to unscrew it:
- if the screw head is Phillips, but the edges are slipped off, you can use a flathead screwdriver. Manufacturers have foreseen the possibility of slipping edges, so you can unscrew the screw not only with a Phillips screwdriver, but also with a slotted screwdriver. Usually this method helps to solve the problem
- Use a blow gun to try to clean the dirt inside the flats of the flats. Often a large amount of dirt accumulates in the flat bar, which interferes with the quality of the connection with the screw
- Hold the screwdriver against the head of the screw and apply several light, but sharp strokes. The screwdriver will sink deeper into the head of the screw, making it more likely to unscrew
- Cut off a piece of rubber and place it on top of the flat bar and try to catch the remaining faces with a screwdriver and unscrew it
- If all the methods are tried, then the only thing left is either to disassemble the electric screwdriver or drill, followed by a replacement of the actuator together with the shaft from the gearbox or an angle grinder cut the chuck. Having got access to the head of the screw, one can grasp the head of the screw using a hand vice and unscrew it. The cartridge should be replaced after this method
It is not necessary to change the complete tool at all.
Dismantle the chuck
Depending on the way the cartridge is fastened, the disassembly procedure will differ.
To disassemble such a construction, proceed as follows.
- Carefully unscrew the locking screw.
- Unscrew the chuck counterclockwise and if the threads are tightened properly, clamp the shaft of the tool in a vice. A gas wrench is used for unscrewing. Then remove the device and check it for integrity and correct functioning.
- If the drill bit is jammed in the jaws, hit it lightly but accurately with a hammer on the jaws from above.
Reassemble in the reverse order. When screwing in a new device the shaft must be secured against turning with the free hand. Lastly screw in the locking device. To help home handymen
It is quite easy to remove the chuck from the tapered part of the shaft. In the set of the drill should be a special device for these purposes, but many experienced craftsmen use this method: turn the tool over with the drill down, fix it and with even blows with a hammer on the backside of the device is knocked out of the shaft.
After disassembly, grind the tapered surfaces with an emery cloth, if there are surface scuffs, remove them with a file. The new chuck is put in place even easier. by hammering with a mallet from above it is seated tightly in the place of the connection.
Users need to remember that the removal of a drill bit or other nozzle when they are jammed in the chuck requires certain skills and ability to handle locksmith tools, but in any case it is necessary to dismantle the device. If the chuck on the drill is defective, it must be replaced.
How to remove a chuck with threaded connection
The question of how to remove the chuck from the drill, which is fixed to it by means of a threaded connection, arises among home masters quite often. To remove such a chuck should take into account the fact that it is installed with a non-standard left-hand thread.
The threaded element of the chuck is in its inner part, so you must first widen the jaws as much as possible, which will provide access to the fixing screw, which is unscrewed with an ordinary Phillips screwdriver. In drills without such a screw, the chuck is simply unscrewed from its shaft without performing the preparatory work described above.
The head of the fixing screw can be cross-headed, with a straight slot, under the hexagon, or even “star”
The left-hand threaded screw that secures the screw chuck to the drill can wear out over time. To restore the reliability of such a connection, you can perform the following steps:
Such actions will not damage the fastener assembly of the drill, but will allow you to fix the clamping device on it more accurately and reliably.
Changing the chuck threaded type on the drill can also be done with a wrench for 14, which greatly facilitates the process. In order not to make mistakes when you are going to disassemble the chuck of this type, you can first get acquainted with the theoretical material on the subject and watch the appropriate video.
Chuck replacement and disassembly on the drill
In the question of how to replace a worn chuck on the drill, there is nothing complicated. To do this, just buy the appropriate clamping device, remove the old chuck from the drill and install the new one on it. In this case, it should be borne in mind that both on the regular and mini-drills can be installed chucks of two types:
Cartridges that use threads on the drill are removed and fixed in the above manner. When replacing such a device, it is not enough to know that it is a threaded one, it is also important to take into account the markings that are necessarily applied to it. Such clamping chucks may be marked as follows:
The 1.5-13 interval present in these designations indicates the minimum and maximum diameters of the cutting tool to be installed. The rules for the replacement of a chuck on the drill suggests that the new clamping device must have the same marking as the old one.
With the question of how to replace the tapered chuck on the drill, everything is somewhat simpler. Various markings may also be applied to devices of this type, namely:
To replace a chuck of this type on a drill, you just need to pick up a clamping device with the appropriate marking and insert its seating part into the cone hole of the drilling equipment. To orientate in this marking is simple enough: the letter “B” means that it is a chuck of the cone type, and the number indicates the diameter of the lower part of the seating hole.
Removing the taper chuck from the drill is as easy as installing it. To do it, you just have to knock the pinchwheel out of the drill seating, using a standard hammer. With the details of installation and removal of the taper chuck of an electric drill can also be found by watching the appropriate video.
On Soviet drills, the chuck with a cone mount was simply knocked out, the design of the gearbox allowed such roughness. To remove the chuck of modern models you need to use pullers or special devices
How to disassemble the chuck of an electric screwdriver or drill? Such a procedure should be periodically performed for maintenance of the device (cleaning and lubrication of all its internal elements), as well as its minor repairs. This greatly extends the life of the chuck.
When disassembling the chuck, consider what type it belongs to. Guided by the instructions or video, it is necessary to perform all actions for disassembly of such a device as carefully as possible, so as not to damage its constituent elements. Once all the procedures for maintenance or repair elements of the drill chuck are performed, you should perform its assembly in reverse order.
If the structural elements are badly worn and it is not possible to restore them, it is better to replace the entire mechanism, which will be much cheaper than its repair.