How to remove the chuck from a DeWALT rotary hammer
Dismantling and reassembling the DeWALT d25123
The peorator is a household necessity that makes the handyman’s job a lot easier. However, like almost all other mechanisms, the peorator can break. With any tool failure, there are two options for the development of events: you can buy a new one or try to repair the old one. The first case will be optimal only when the cost of the device itself is low, but the repair is expensive. However, in branded models it is advisable to make repairs. In addition, you can always try to make it yourself. No special skills are required, but there are nuances, which are better to learn in advance.
To understand that the peorator needs to be repaired is possible according to the following “symptoms”:
- smell of burning;
- device performance degradation;
- unstable operation;
- The appearance of unusual and unnatural sound accompaniment;
- excessive speed.
The main malfunctions of the torch and their external signs
All malfunctions of the unit can be divided into 2 groups: mechanical and electrical.
If there is any mechanical malfunction, its presence can be determined by ear (noise, grinding noise).
You may also feel increased vibration or an unpleasant odor coming from the body of the unit.
So, to the mechanical breakdowns can include the following:
- Breakage of the switch of working modes of the device;
- firing pin and striker rubbers worn out;
- failure of the percussion mechanism;
- failure of the barrel of the machine due to wear and tear;
- gear teeth breakage;
- damage to the chuck which causes the hammer to come out of the chuck.
Malfunctions associated with the electrical part of the apparatus may also be accompanied by an unpleasant odor from the body of the apparatus, arcing. You may also notice that the motor warms up quickly and hums without rotating, or smoke comes out of it.
The electrical breakdowns of the machine can include such things as:
- The unit does not turn on;
- Breakage of the starter button;
- brushes wear;
- clogging of the collector;
- Breach of electrical contacts;
- burnout of stator or rotor winding of an electric motor.
The main types of drill chucks
By their design, drill clamps are divided into two main types:
- Tooth-ring chuck, in which the tool shank is clamped by means of a special key;
- The quick-action drill chuck (QCD), where the jaw is activated by turning it manually.
Junction jaw chucks fitted to modern drills guarantee the safe clamping of tools with shank diameters in the range of 1-25 mm. Devices of this type are practically devoid of disadvantages, the most significant of which is their rather high cost.
The most popular type of clamping device, installed on modern models of drills, is a fast-action chuck (HAC). It takes just a few seconds to fit the tool in the multi-feed chuck, without the need for a special wrench. Clamping the tool shank is carried out by manually rotating the adjusting sleeve, the outer surface of which is corrugated to facilitate this procedure. This type of chuck has a special locking device to regulate the mechanical action applied to the shank of the tool.
To fix the drill bit, hold the lower coupling with one hand and tighten the upper coupling clockwise with the other hand
The most significant disadvantage of the bottom coupling is that it is not sufficiently reliable in holding the drill shank of large-diameter drills when the elements of its mechanism wear out. This prevents the tool from turning while working.
Compared to the clamping devices of the category BZP, gear-type drill chucks ensure reliable fixation of the tool in any situation. Users who work often with electric drills prefer this type of chuck. The only significant disadvantage of these devices is that the key with which they are actuated is quite easy to lose. Meanwhile, the occurrence of such a problem can be easily avoided if, immediately after the purchase of the drill, to fix the key on the wire of the device with insulating tape or an ordinary rope.
The diameter of the bit shank to be chucked in the Mini Driver depends on the caliber of the collet
The mini drill chuck for compact drills is also very popular. The latter are actively used by craftsmen in jewelry making. Mini chucks belong to the category of quick-action chucks for electric screwdriver or light drill. Such a small chuck, made mainly of brass, is used to fix tools, the shank diameter of which is in the range of 0.1-4.5 mm.
There are several varieties of them:
With quick-change chucks, the bit or drill can be changed in seconds without the need for any additional tools. They are divided into one-coupling and two-coupling types.
In the latter version, to attach the drill, you have to hold the sleeve with one hand and screw the other with the other. Single-cut chucks have a locking system of the shaft, which is triggered when you change tooling. The disadvantage of such products is the low strength of fixation of drills. In addition, the use of plastic parts significantly increases the risk of damage to the chuck.
It is better to use cam chucks on impact drills and rotary drills. They are stronger, so they are often used to work in difficult conditions. No plastic elements are used in such products, and tool fastening is performed with a special wrench.
You can also find collet SDS chucks, which were created in the 1970s. In the shank of this design there are two grooves, the size of which is 10 mm.
In this system, part of the drill has to be screwed into a chuck of 40 mm. It is secured with locking balls. In addition, there are 4 grooves, 2 of which are fixing grooves and the rest are used for guiding wedges. The spindle of the device equipped with this construction is automatically blocked immediately after installation.
How to Disassemble a Peorator Chuck
To assess the technical condition, to service or replace the clamping device, it is necessary to disassemble the chuck of the peorator. Wear work gloves beforehand to minimize the risk of contamination of the hands with dirt, construction dust and grease. Always unplug the tool from the socket.
After assembly, it is advisable to wash the components in kerosene. There will be much fouling if instead of lubricating the shank, grease is sometimes applied inside the chuck, which should not be done categorically.
Assembly of the torch cartridge
To reassemble the device, the steps of disassembly are repeated in reverse order.
- Power washed, cleaned or new parts are lubricated with silicone grease such as WD-40.
- The gland, the sealing rubber is put in its place. The inner part is placed in the sleeve so that the holes for the cotter pins coincide.
You can install the nozzle and check the maintenance of the cartridge. In chucks from different manufacturers, the disassembly process may differ slightly due to the presence of additional washers and shims.
How to remove the cartridge from the torch: the secrets of experts
Before proceeding to replace the cartridge, you should understand what they are. There are only three basic types. Most models are fitted with a so-called jaw chuck in which the bits are locked in place with a wrench. There are also quick-change chucks and collet SDS chucks in which the drill bits are fixed manually by simply turning the chuck. Before you remove the chuck from the chuck you must find out what it is fastened to.
Screw fastening is the most common. To disconnect the chuck, it is necessary to release the clamp, then using a screwdriver to unscrew the screw, if necessary, holding the head of the chuck with pliers. In the case where the screw does not yield, you should apply a few blows with a hammer to the cap of the screw to move the process from the dead point.
When worrying about how to drill with the pen without the risk of breaking the tool, you should replace the chuck regularly. After getting rid of the old part, you must decide what kind of replacement it is better to choose. If the tool is used extensively and performs many functions, it follows that the bits are changed very often. In that case, it makes sense to use a quick-action chuck.
If you use large drills and change them infrequently, a cam chuck is a better option. Knowing how the peorator works, it is not difficult to install the chuck. It is enough to install the new part in place of the old one, tighten the screw all the way to the stop and click the clamp. Caution is required in the action, because incorrect installation is fraught with the risk of injury during operation.
It often happens that the cause of malfunctions is not caused by a worn chuck. It is important to be able to properly diagnose the problem, and before you fix the peorator, know exactly what caused the interruption. Sometimes the cause is a cable breakage. To identify this problem, you need to disconnect the tool from the power supply and test the cord. If necessary, unscrew the back cover of the machine, remove the cable completely, unscrew it, and carefully examine it for breakdowns. If any are found, they should be thoroughly cleaned.
Sometimes insufficient lubrication is the cause of instability. Before you drill with the torch, make sure you have put enough oil in the lubricator. In addition, separately need to lubricate the shanks of the nozzles, so that the work was smoother and smoother. There is nothing complicated about replacing the chuck and repairing the peorator. It is important to follow the instructions consistently and work with good conscience. Then everything will work out.
How to disassemble and change the chuck (sds-plus, sds-max)
Working electric tools have different power, but when used for the needs of the home, preference is given to the lightest version, because, even doing repairs in the house, there is no need for a variety of large-scale alterations, and if there is, it is hired a construction crew with experience. So, for the house, an electric hammer weighing up to 3-5 kilograms (excluding the various accessories) will be fine.
Any of these types of peorator use a replaceable quick-change drill chuck. There are five kinds of chucks, but mainly only two are used. When using a medium-heavy (or light class) peorator only primitive type chucks are used, and for the more advanced class, an SDS-max chuck is needed.
How to remove a peorator cartridge
For those who work with a hammerdriver on a daily basis, socket replacement or repair is not a problem. But what to do for those who meet with this tool once a year? Naturally, almost every man has an idea about the drill, so it will not be a big problem for him to remove or replace the chuck on this tool. As for the removal of the chuck on the peorator, this nuance requires a separate consideration, although the reasons are not so important, the main thing to know how to solve this problem.
First it is necessary to determine the type of chuck: collet, cam and quick-clamp. To make the chuck visible, it is necessary to examine its fastening carefully. It can be fastened by means of a rod or spindle. This process is not generally a problem, but sometimes you may encounter quite a strong fixation, where without an additional set of tools, do not cope. With the simplest hammer model, the chuck with a strong locking mechanism is removed using a hammer, wrench and screwdriver. To begin with, it is worth tapping on the head of the screw to somewhat reduce the degree of fixation, then using a screwdriver unscrew. Next, using a vise or wrench, you turn the spindle.
Disassembly of the drill chuck
In order to disassemble the seat it is necessary to know some important points that are specific to each model.
We will disassemble the Bosch peorator:
- Pull aside the plastic and remove the rubber seal;
- Using a screwdriver, carefully remove the ring. retainer;
- Then remove the retaining washer;
- After the washer, you will see another ring. It must also be removed with a screwdriver;
- After disassembling the plastic part you will see the SDS clamp that includes: a spring, a ball, a washer. First you need to remove the ball and washer and then the spiral.
Disassembling the drift socket is necessary for various purposes: repairing, replacing some parts, cleaning, lubricating, etc. д. Disassembly of chucks from other manufacturers, is made by the same principle, but the individual features of construction are taken into account.
Removing the cartridge from the drill
If it is necessary to perform repair manipulations of the peorator socket, it is necessary to know its technical construction from the very beginning. But for many it remains a mystery, so how is the chuck of the peorator made??
Previously, the drill was attached using movable cams. But for many it is no secret that the world is developing and many familiar objects get a new incarnation. So, SDS drills are attached by means of guide wedges and corkscrew balls. SDS plus and max, have an insignificant difference in the number of shims (1 more), so the fastening process is fast and strong.
But there are other changes, which have affected the difficulty of fixing the bit, you just need to insert the required bit into the socket and apply a little pressure. When you hear the click, be sure: the nozzle is in its place. Drill removal is not a big problem either, just push down on the sliding cover and that’s it. the drill is out.
features of different screwdriver brands
Makita often makes plastic chucks for small power domestic models. When working with this design, you have to be especially careful not to damage the housing. If you remove the cam chuck, you will need to unclamp the cams first.
Speaking from Makita, its tools are equipped with an automatic lock. The chucks are single-feed chucks.
The models of the company Bosch are similar in structure. Most brands use similar construction principles. The only difference is that Bosch screwdrivers have an autolot in the chuck.
Milwaukee. good-quality tools with a threaded design and additional screw locking. It has to be unscrewed first, then knocked out. The manufacturer does not recommend changing the chuck by yourself, but advises to contact the service center. The standard disassembly procedure is done first. Sometimes if the usual option does not work, the tool has to be completely disassembled, taking out the gearbox and spindle.
The manufacturers Zubr and Hitachi, Metabo, DeWALT are very similar. If a chuck needs to be removed for extraction or routine cleaning, it must be unscrewed from the shaft. Work with screwdrivers from these manufacturers is not difficult: the screw is unscrewed by the standard method (clockwise), and then the body is pulled out, without additional effort.
Every owner must monitor the proper condition of the tool. Lubricate all the elements of the cartridge carefully so that it will last longer and be easier to dismantle for replacement.
Features of collet chucks
In addition to the varieties considered, there are also additional types of chucks. These are collet-type quick-change chucks and key chucks (toothed-ring chucks). With their help, you can install a cylindrical drill bit in the peorator to drill metal as well as wood.
But popularity of such decisions began to decrease as soon as there were adapters from drill to rotary tool. The design includes an SDS-Plus shank and a thread into which the drill chuck is screwed.
- Tooth-ring chucks. They are also the key. Drill chuck that holds a cylindrical drill bit. A slotted wrench is used for fastening. The key is used to displace the cams that clamp the bit in the seating hole. The minus is that it takes quite a long time to install and remove the drill.
- Quick-release (QRF). Not to be confused with the SDS quick-action chuck. Such solutions are usually found on electric screwdrivers. Are available as double-joint and single-joint. The nozzle insertion pattern is similar. But a wrench is not required here. It is sufficient to apply force by hand instead. Although in terms of reliability of fixation BSP are inferior to key. The double-clutch version is the recommended choice.
Using a collet chuck to work with a screwdriver in impact mode is not recommended. This will lead to a rapid tool breakdown.
And you shouldn’t use the torch too often if you want to drill in wood or metal. You’re better off with a drill.
Peorator is a heavy-duty power tool, designed for working concrete, reinforced concrete, stone, granite, and brick.
Remove and replace the cartridge
There are several signs or symptoms that indicate a problem with the gear cartridge.
- Device can’t hold the bit. This symptom indicates wear on the balls or rollers. It can also be caused by the breaking ring being badly worn or the spring mechanism sinking.
- Peorator does not hold the chuck itself. Such a problem usually occurs due to wear on the brackets that fasten the element to the tool. You need to replace the chuck. But sometimes you can get by with a repair.
If you are faced with a removal task and don’t know how to replace the cartridge on your peorator, then follow the instructions.
We will tell you step by step how to correctly replace the cartridge on the peorator and what you need to do for this:
- Remove the protective ring that is located on top or on the end. Lift the cover with a flathead screwdriver and remove.
- There is a retaining ring and plate behind the overlay. Remove them as well. Use a screwdriver to remove the ring. This ring also secures the dust cover.
- Remove the cover, after which the tooling is complete. Carefully check the condition of the parts to determine the cause of the malfunction.
- If the ring is worn, as is evident from its visual condition, it is to be replaced.
- A repair kit may be available for repair or a suitable O-ring may be purchased separately.
After replacing all the problematic elements of the cartridge, reassemble it.
Before you take a problematic chuck off your torch, it is worth buying a repair kit to replace the worn-out components beforehand. But if, in your case, the repair is no longer relevant, then a new cartridge with the appropriate characteristics is required.
Reassembly is done in the same manner:
- If you have repaired the unit, then clean the part of the old lubricant, remove the traces of wear and tear. When reassembling, new grease needs to be added.
- Install a new spring on the barrel if the old one is no longer serviceable.
- Next comes the plate. Also pay attention to its condition. With prolonged use, it usually wears out and needs to be replaced.
- Then insert the ball into the cartridge hole, which must be coated with a lubricant beforehand.
- The stop ring should follow.
- The next step is to reinstall the case and secure it with the retaining ring.
- The ring is followed by a plate that will hold the dust cap. It is secured by another retaining ring.
- The reassembly process is completed by the installation of the dust cap.
When adding grease, note that more is better than less. Use special drill bit lubricants for machining.
The repaired chuck is being reattached. It remains to be checked that all the previously reported symptoms of malfunctions are gone and that the chuck can now hold the bit firmly and reliably enough.
How do chucks for rotary tools work?
In order to effectively use the various attachments for the peorator, it is necessary to ensure that they are securely fastened. This is what a special chuck is for. Its first models began to be developed in the 1930s, when rotary tools were put on the market and mass production of them was taken over by the world-famous Bosch.
The manual tool like the peorator has been appreciated by users almost from the beginning, because with it, drilling and impulse drilling can be combined, which significantly increases the effectiveness of the work performed. The main drawback of the first chuck models is that the weakest link in their design was the chuck that deteriorated very quickly under the impact loads.
After many years of development, the more simple is the design of the chuck and the more reliable is it.
Externally, the rotary chuck is a completely closed chuck
As a result, three basic types of chucks for peorator cartridges were created, which in turn are subdivided into subtypes.
There are chucks in which the actuating cams actuate a special key that securely clamps the shank of the tool being used. The most important advantage of this type of chuck is that it provides a firm hold on the tool used in the set with the peorator. Meanwhile, in order to change the working tool in such a chuck for peorator, it will take considerably more time than in case of other types of clamping devices.
Basic types of chucks for peorator chucks
The working head of the rotary tool can also be fastened to it via the quick-action chuck (QAC), which can only be actuated via force produced by the operator’s hands. Depending on their design, these chucks can be single or double chucks, which also have different operating principles.
One-feed chucks are the easiest to use, but should only be used with drills with automatic shaft locking. One hand is sufficient to actuate this type of chuck. In order to use the double-clutch clamping device, it is necessary to hold its rear clutch with one hand and rotate the front clutch with the other.
What is SDS
SDS is an abbreviation composed of the first letters of the words Steck, Dreh, Sitzt, which in German means “put, turn, fixed. This simple yet ingenious principle is exactly how the SDS bits work, developed by Bosch engineers in the 1980s. Today 90% of all manufactured rotary tools are equipped with this easy-to-use and very secure clamping device.
SDS chucks are often called “quick-clamping chucks”, but they should not be confused with devices in which clamping is achieved by rotating sockets. Unlike traditional quick-action chucks, the SDS does not need to be rotated to clamp the tool, it simply needs to be held in place by hand.
To understand the device of the chuck of this type, as well as the principle of its operation, it is enough to look at the tool shank, which is designed to be fixed in such a device, or SDS adapter. This tool shank has 4 keyways, two of which are open in the face of the shank and the remaining 2 are closed. Open slots act as guides and ensure that the tool is positioned correctly when inserted in the chuck. Closed grooves secure the shank in the chuck.
There are special balls in the inner part of the SDS ammunition that have two functions at the same time. When the tool is first inserted in the chuck, the balls that guide the slots ensure that the tool is positioned correctly. After the tool is inserted as far as it will go, these balls fix the tool by rotating it slightly until the balls are fully seated in the closed slots of the shank. To make it even easier to use the SDS cartridge, it is recommended that the tool shank be not only thoroughly cleaned after each use, but also lubricated.
It should be taken into account that due to the design features of SDS chucks the tool fixed in them is subject to a slight radial run-out at idle running that does not affect the accuracy of machining at all. In the meantime, the slight play between the drive shank and the inner face of the chuck protects the drive shank from the hammering action of drills and cutters during the rotary drilling process.
All SDS chucks are equipped with a rubber dust cap to protect them from dirt
How to disassemble the horn cartridge?
To visually assess the condition of the cartridge wear it should be disassembled. This is done as follows:
- First remove the rubber dust cap. It is not secured in any special way, but only tightly seated in the chuck. The dust cover can be removed by prying it off with a screwdriver.
- Now it is necessary to dismantle the locking ring with the washer. The spring will then be released.
- The spring should be removed with care. The point is that the locking balls underneath it can pop out, and they are easy to lose.
- When the spring is removed, the rear duster can be removed.
- The cylinder is held in place by four bushes that pass through the shaft wall of the rotor. To take out inserts it is better to use a magnet or a screwdriver with a magnetized sting. It is impossible to take them out any other way, because there is nothing to grip the insert.
- Next, the cartridge is taken out and all of its components are inspected for damage. In this case you should decide on the complete replacement of the mechanism, or on a separate part.
Reassemble the clamping device of the peorator in strictly reverse order.
Frequent malfunctions of the peorator cartridge and troubleshooting
Rubber dusters get worn and cracked in the course of operation. Because of this, construction dust gets into the mechanism, which contaminates the lubricant and contributes to the wear and tear of the internal elements.
Loosening of the retaining ring sets the spring free. This causes the balls to fly out of their retaining slots and the auger can no longer be secured.
Wear of the grooves in the cylinder guide prevents the drills from sticking properly.
If the spring is heavily worn, the cushioning deteriorates.
The diameter of the retaining balls decreases as they wear. Eventually, they will not be able to retain the auger.
Some parts such as balls, snap rings, and springs can be used from other machines. As for the dust covers and guide cylinder, if they have to be replaced, you will have to buy the original parts.
Every craftsman can do the entire repair of the rotary hammer chuck. All necessary parts can be found at tool stores. As you can see there is no need to go to a repair shop for the retractor, the malfunction can be repaired with your own hands.