How to remove the oil pump on a chainsaw

Design and repair of a chainsaw oil pump

Any owner is pleased with the good equipment, tested in practice and repeatedly justifies itself. The newest technologies always surprise and amaze us with their characteristics that surpass those of very old technologies that are still used by many. Some craftsmen always try to buy equipment from well-known companies of a certain brand for their business and persuade their friends and acquaintances to do it, others are guided by the price and buy only expensive, but the manufacturer is not interested in them.

Where is the guarantee that any equipment we buy is fully compliant with the quality certificate according to which it is sold? Where is the durability that the manufacturer promises when we use their equipment in our conditions and feed it with our fuel and according to our recipes?

There is a lot of equipment available today that can be sold at different at different retail outlets. No one will tell you where or who assembled the same chainsaw or chainsaw you bought. A well-known brand and assembly can be done in a nearby garage for components, perhaps even homemade.

The big problem that causes most chainsaws in budget versions of all kinds of breakdowns is their poor assembly, incompatible components and even negligent handling of the entire assembly process by untrained installers.

Many chainsaw owners notice an oil stain where their chainsaw has been resting or stored. Oil under the saw doesn’t start leaking right away. And if the chainsaw is poorly assembled, or rather poorly assembled, an oil slick can appear immediately after refueling.

Excluding mechanical damage to the tank and oil supply system, there are not many causes of oil leakage.

• Loose connection between oil supply line and oil pump inlet port of chainsaw and poor sealing between oil tank opening and line.
• Technical consistency with the dimensions of the oil pump ram and outlet chamber.
• Loose connection of the mower feed line to the oil pump outlet channel up to the lubrication point of the saw chain.
• Oil pump piston chamber leaks.

I will focus on the latter option in more detail, because if the plunger chamber leaks oil, and in dust structures, where the oil tank is located above the level of the oil pump, oil leaks out after a couple of days of idling the chainsaw.

READ RPM controlled circular saws

Fixing an oil leak from a chainsaw oil pump is possible, and it’s all quick if someone is good with a screwdriver and wrenches. If your chainsaw has had a short life, the problem is solved simply.

As I mentioned earlier, the guarantee of trouble-free operation of your chainsaw is not only ensured by following optimal operating conditions and using the manufacturer’s recommendations, but also by the appropriate quality of components and most of the highest quality assembly.

Let the part be manufactured with high precision equipment, but if it is not installed correctly or not fixed with the same amount of force, the promised warranty from the manufacturer will disappoint you.

Similar to the piston type oil pump, installed on most models of chainsaws budget option, easy to design. Its principle of operation is not different from that of some plunger oil pumps of other chainsaw categories.

I will briefly describe in my own words the principle of the oil pump plunger-type similar models, which will be a little clearer if you become acquainted with my method of fixing the oil leakage through the oil pump chainsaw.

Repair of the oil pump on a chainsaw

Any owner is pleased with excellent equipment, proven in practice and more than once justified itself. New equipment always strikes and frightens by its features, which are superior to the properties of very old equipment, which is still in use by many. Some masters are always trying to buy for their own business equipment extensively recognized companies of a certain brand and inclined to do this their own friends and acquaintances, others are guided by the cost and acquire themselves only precious, and the company they are not interested.

Where is the guarantee that no matter what equipment we purchase is one hundred percent consistent with the property certificate under which it is sold? Where is the promised manufacturer durability, if we operate their equipment in our criteria, and, moreover, ‘feed’ it with our fuel and our recipes?

Nowadays, a lot of machinery, which in different outlets can be sold at different costs. No one will say where and who assembled that lawnmower or chainsaw, which you got. A recognizable brand, and the assembly can be carried out in the adjoining garage by the components, maybe even by handicraft method.

A big disadvantage that causes the majority of chainsaws economical option of various kinds of failure, is their poor assembly, not matching devices, and even quite careless attitude to the entire assembly process by unprepared collectors.

Many chainsaw owners have noticed an oil stain on the place where their chainsaw was resting or stored. The oil under the saw does not start leaking immediately. And with a bad assembly, more precisely, with a poorly assembled chainsaw, an oil stain can show up right after refueling.

Husqvarna 137 Chainsaw Oil Pump Runs

I bought a Husqvarna 137 chainsaw. I got a question during use. chain oil and gasoline must run out at once? I ran out of oil faster. I don’t think that’s right. Maybe there is something wrong with the saw?

Oil in saw should be used for 2 purposes. mix with gasoline (if it is designed for it) and lubricate the chain. The main consumption. chain lubrication. If you saw hard. It will run out quicker. If you don’t saw anything and just drive. the gasoline will run out quicker. Don’t leave the chain saw idling, because when the engine is running, it automatically turns on the oil flow to lubricate the bar and chain. There is an option to adjust the oil supply to the bar with a special screw. If oil is too thin, it can run out faster than gasoline.

Confused by the iron sound in the chain saw Husqvarna 137, like a bearing or something else in the clutch area somewhere, is it normal for something else to lubricate retighten necessary?

The clutch cup is ringing while it is new and not dirtied inside. Gradually there will be a certain amount of dust buildup and the hum will end.

You see that the tire has become arched. Can not figure out why this happened. Did not apply any lateral force. If you put the tire on a flat surface, the middle is 2-3 mm away from the axle. I squeezed it out in a vice and it became straight. I haven’t tried sawing yet. Could this be caused by overheated tire? And also began (preheated) stall when you press the gas.

The worst case, if the hot chain tightened tightly, and immediately after work did not loosen. So the tire is bent like an onion. Best case if it was deformed on the fly and you only saw it now. You can’t avoid serious engine repair at the beginning. Deformation of the crankshaft toe, damaged bearings and their beds.

I bought a Husqvarna 137. I have some problems with my carburettor, could you suggest the adjustments?? unstable at idle and when you hit the gas about half throttle seems to bang, and then seems fine, but only at full throttle.

You need to adjust the idle speed. There are 3 adjustment holes, two side by side and one is higher in my opinion is marked with a letter T, so it needs to twist. I have what remains to do our customer came out with a bang. You can spin it safely it is responsible for the idle. All you need is a thin screwdriver. It could be the vibration caused the screw to turn or vice versa.

A little problem has arisen. The saw started to stall at idle. Worked not so long ago. Start it up, warm it up, saw it off. I wait 15 seconds and the saw stops. And so on several times. What can it be?? Maybe there is a recommendation after the initial period of operation how to adjust the idle?

Idle RPM adjustment technique

is simple and is described in the owner’s manual in an easy-to-understand manner. On a running warm saw with a flat screwdriver the screw “T” is turned clockwise until the chain starts to move, after that it goes back a little so that the chain stops. Everything. True, it happens with particular samples of saws that stable idling is possible only at a little bit higher rpm (chain is not immobile, but twitches). In this case, either give priority to stable operation and put up with the increased danger during warm-up, or prioritize safety and push the throttle lever lightly during warm-up, causing the same jerking of the chain. The other day I bought a chain saw Husqvarna 137, like the instructions are included, but as it turned out, it (the instruction) is silent about many things: 1. Run in and what is the proper running-in mode?? 2. Should I drain gasoline (I think I heard that gasoline and oil mixes loose their properties pretty fast)?? 3. can the mixture be stored for how long?? 4. how accurately the ratio of gasoline to oil must be maintained? 5. What kind of gasoline can you use? 92 or at least 92?

READ Jeweler’s Grinder

Here is from my experience: 1. In general, imported saws do not require running-in, but I would recommend to do it running-in time of 1 filling at idle speed. 2. it is necessary to drain the gasoline when storing it for a long time, and for a week you can leave it without any problem. 3. it is best to store the mixture in a special canister. 4. if you don’t refill the oil. You will ruin your saw if you overfill. will smoke during operation. 5. Gasoline must be at least 92, I use 95 from a local Chevrolet gas station.

Husqvarna 137 chainsaw with uninstalled bar and chain. I did everything according to the manual. When it came to putting the clutch cover back in place, it turned out that it was impossible to put the spring ring on the clutch housing. Maybe there is some undocumented trick?

Probably left the saw on the brake, that’s why the clutch ring doesn’t fit. Take the brake off and you’ll be fine.

Took the new Husqvarna 137 saw for a spin this weekend. I spent a tank of oil in two instances (half on Saturday and half on Sunday). The mixture was 1:40, the oil was native. I alternated between cutting small knots (up to 10 cm in diameter) and idling with jerking. I can’t say that the saw just starts. Somewhere around 7-8 jerk. In terms of vibration and noise it feels quite comfortable. Saws like butter. Speaking of oil. The chain oil consumption was unexpectedly high. Two chainsaws for one fuel load. The chain oil was from Makita. Perhaps it was due to the nature of the mode, yet prevailed idle, and they say that this consumes oil. I would like an expert’s opinion on what this could mean. Might need to go to the service already, or maybe someone knows how to adjust the oil flow?

As far as I know, the oil tank is calculated to hold a full tank of gasoline. I still have some oil in the tank after all the gas is gone. But of course it may be the viscosity of the oil that is wearing off. You should probably use thicker oil, in my STIHL I use gear oil. When you run it in, I think it is not necessary to work at idle, you just need to work carefully not to the full power of the saw. About 70% of max power. After you have finished working, you should let it idle for a few minutes to let it cool down.

I bought a chainsaw the other day. According to the owner, it worked two chains, no complaints and failures was not. The question is: do I need any preventive measures, like changing filters, plugs and so on?д. Starts well, runs smoothly.

Preventive measures

To reduce the risk of various oil leaks while you are using your saw, periodic service should be performed. Proper sealing of all hoses and gaskets should be observed during this process. If any leakage is detected, the connection elements must be retightened.

Always check the quality of the oil you use. It must be of good quality and used in strict accordance with the characteristics given in the product data sheet. In any case do not use used oil, because it has a heterogeneous structure. It is also mandatory to perform periodic purging of the oil pump. This helps prevent debris from coking in its working channels.

Poor-quality lubricant will impair tool performance and shorten tool life.

In addition, if lubrication is poorly done, the chain can fail, which is quite expensive to replace.

After the sawing work it is absolutely necessary to clean the saw from the sawdust. If you do not use the saw for an extended period, hang it vertically. This allows the oil fluid to flow evenly through all channels of the tool. This even distribution will avoid vacuum plugs, which can cause oil pump malfunctions.

The chainsaw chain generates a great deal of heat in the bar groove when it is moved. If the chain does not receive oil, you must stop the saw and take all measures to correct the faulty chain lubrication system. The combination of high loads and overheating leads to accelerated wear and early failure of the bar.

• All chainsaws and their electric analogues, without exception, are equipped with systems operating according to the same operating principle that can lubricate the bar, saw chain and its drive components.
• As standard, this unit includes a reservoir from which the chain oil is pumped to a fixed or adjustable capacity pump inlet.
• Then working fluid flows in dosed quantity to the bar groove, where it is evenly distributed by the saw chain shanks over the whole bar and the working surface of the driving sprocket rim.

Bus bars with a length of 400 mm or more are equipped with a sprocket wheel. The bearing is relubricated individually, after 6 to 8 hours of operation.

Main oil pump failures

The oil pump consists of several parts connected in one piece, namely the housing, the oil reservoir, the hose and the gasket between the two parts of the unit. The most vulnerable place is the gasket, which over time or with improper use of a chainsaw deforms and begins to leak lubricant.

If the gasket leaks, some of the oil will escape through the gap and much less lubricant will flow to the chain. This increases wear and tear on the chain and guide bar, which can cause them to fail in the future.

The oil pump hoses and fittings are also at risk, since if the chain saw is used continuously for extended periods of time they can become clogged and cause the oil pressure to drop. The holes that let oil into the guide bar are also subject to this problem.

Chainsaw oil pump doesn’t work

Fixing the oil pump: chain saw repair

If a chainsaw is used for a long time, its individual components can fail. In most cases the chainsaw oil pump needs to be repaired. This is because the sawing process generates large quantities of chips that can get into the working mechanism.

Oil leak repair

Many chainsaw models have oil pump faults in the course of their operation. These faults can occur in many different ways, but in the end they all lead to oil leaks. over, such leaks can occur even when the saw is in the prone position. The oil pump; as a rule, the oil pump consists of two on the surface should not. Only the pump itself shouldn’t leave an oil trail, even in winter.т.е. Engine is running. This is justified by the uneven distribution of water in the storage tank.

Leaks also occur because chainsaw oil pumps have a fitting on their own housing to attach the hose. A loose connection between the water tank and the pump can create oily droplets.

Husqvarna chain lubrication system

How to operate the Husqvarna 137 chainsaw?

I bought a Husqvarna 137 chainsaw. I have a question. chain oil and gasoline should run out at once? I ran out of oil faster. I think this is wrong. Is there something wrong with the saw??

Oil in the saw should be used for 2 purposes. mix with gasoline (if designed to do so) and lubricate the chain. Basic Consumption. chain lubrication. So if you’re sawing intensively. it’ll run out quicker. And if you’re not sawing anything, you’re just gassing. it’ll run out faster than the gasoline. Don’t leave the chainsaw idling, because when the motor runs, it automatically turns on the oil flow to lubricate the bar and chain. You can adjust the oil flow to the bar with a special screw. If the oil is too thin, it might run out quicker than the gasoline.

I am confused by the iron sound in the chain saw Husqvarna 137, like a bearing or something else in the clutch area somewhere, is it normal or is it something to lubricate and tighten?

That’s the clutch cup humming when it’s brand new and perfectly clean on the inside. Over time, there will be some dust buildup and the hum will stop.

I saw that the tire had become a curve. I can’t figure out why that’s happening. Didn’t do any side action. If you put the bar on an even surface, the middle is 2-3 mm from the axis. I straightened it in a vise, it’s straight now. Haven’t tried sawing yet. Can it happen because of overheated tire? And also started (warmed up) stalling now and then when you step on the gas.

The worst thing is if the hot chain is tight, and immediately after work did not loosen. That’s the tire like an onion and bent. Best case if it was deformed on the fly and you only see it now. In the first case, a serious repair of the motor can’t be avoided. Deformation of the crankshaft toe, damaged bearings and their beds.

I bought a saw Husqvarna 137, immediately there were problems with the carburetor, advise what can be done, are there any adjustments? Unstable when idling

and when you press the throttle to about half throttle seems to bang, and later seems fine, but only at full throttle.

Chainsaw Pump Repair

There is a perception that it is quite problematic to repair the oil pump of a chainsaw with your own hands. In fact, in the presence of basic locksmith skills and general concepts and rotating mechanisms you can easily restore its original parameters. The following tools and accessories must be prepared for this purpose:

To troubleshoot the pump it is necessary to dismantle it without touching the working part.

A seal must be present between the two halves of the unit, which must be replaced with a new one if there are any cracks or fractures. The next step is to check the integrity of the supply hose. On its cylindrical formations should be absent any wrinkles and cracks, which can further lead to the loss of tightness of the system. If any of these are detected, the lines must be replaced and the good hose flushed and installed on the sealant to the ends of the tank and pump.

Outlet channels of oil pump must be free of foreign particles (dust, shavings, dirt). Such clogs can lead not only to poor lubrication and vacuum clogging that can damage the supply lines.

The structure of the clutch and how it works

Chainsaws are equipped with mechanisms such as clutches. The main purpose of this part is to provide torque transfer from the crankshaft to the tool chain. Chainsaws use friction clutches. They operate in automatic mode and do not require additional control levers.

The chainsaw’s crankshaft rotates when starting the engine. The lack of a friction clutch contributed to the constant rotation of the cutting chain. This would not only make it more difficult to start the engine due to the extra load, but would also lead to a number of negative consequences:

• Increased fuel consumption
• Unsafe tool operation because the chain will rotate at idle speed, increasing the risk of injury to the saw operator
• Reduced service life of the electric motor, because the clutch is a kind of fuse, excluding excessive overloading of the internal combustion engine

The clutch clutch design is quite simple, and includes a number of the following parts:

• The drum is the transmission mechanism that connects to the chain saw sprocket, transmitting the rotation force to the chain
• The friction plates, or diffusers, tend to move radially when the centrifugal force is increased
• Springs. these are of different kinds, but act to press the friction linings against the motor shaft

How one of the chain saw’s key mechanisms works? When the engine starts, when it is idling at 2,700 rpm, the chain does not move. It needs centrifugal force to move it. This force is developed by the engine as the number of revolutions is increased. As soon as the saw operator presses the throttle, the crankshaft starts to rotate at higher speed. Centrifugal forces act on the inner walls of the drum to make it move at the same speed. The harder you pull the gas pedal trigger, the higher the chain rotation speed. They reach a maximum speed of 13600 rpm.

The automatic friction clutches used in chain saws have a simple design, which has a positive effect on their cost. If the clutch fails, it is most often caused by a damaged spring element. If it fails, it can be replaced or you can buy a new clutch for a specific chainsaw model. The most common cause of failure of this mechanism is frequent jamming of the chain in the workpiece being sawn. However, in this kind of jamming, it is the clutch that absorbs all the shock, eliminating the failure of the internal combustion engine.

This is interesting! The chainsaw clutch drum connects to the sprocket to which the chain is attached. The sprockets on the tools in question have different locations. on the outside or inside, which depends on the chainsaw model. Sprockets also come in collapsible and non collapsible, that is, cast with a drum or removable.

Outer chain saw collapsible sprocket

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Design and principle of operation of the chainsaw engine

The most important mechanism of a chainsaw is the motor. The units in question use internal combustion engines of the gasoline type. Such internal combustion engines consist of one cylinder, and have a two-stroke system of functioning. For more details on how a two-stroke chainsaw engine is designed and works, see this material.

It is to the engine that additional mechanisms are connected, due to which the finished gasoline tool is obtained. The structure of a two-stroke chainsaw engine consists of the following elements:

• The cylinder is a body, and inside it is a circular hole through which the piston moves. The cylinder has a ribbed design, which is made to provide heat dissipation
• The piston is the part that moves up and down and moves the crankshaft
• The connecting rod is the part that connects the piston to the crankshaft
• A crankshaft is a part that generates useful work as it rotates. It is the rotational energy that powers the chain saw chain

the cylinder has channels that carry the fuel-air mixture for ignition, as well as to remove the resulting exhaust gases. The chainsaw engine runs on a mixture of gasoline and oil. This is to ensure the lubrication of the crank mechanism as well as the piston and cylinder walls. This ensures that the fuel-air mix does not go straight into the combustion chamber, but into the crankcase. After lubricating the parts, the mixture is pushed into the combustion chamber, where it is compressed and then burned.

The following mechanisms are connected to the engine:

• Flywheel. located on one part of the crankshaft, and it serves to provide centrifugal force
• The clutch is the mechanism that turns the chain according to the engine speed
• Muffler is a part that not only reduces the sound of the engine, but also directs the exhaust gases away from the saw
• The ignition module and the spark plug are the devices responsible for the combustion of the fuel
• Carburetor with a spacer sleeve. a separate element that ensures the mixing of petrol-oil mixture with air, and the supply of the finished fuel mixture into the cylinder. The spacer is the connecting part between the carburettor and the cylinder, which prevents the first mechanism from overheating

The chainsaw engine power depends on the volume of the fuel chamber. The higher the volume, the more power. Not only two-stroke engines are used on chainsaws, but also 2-mix engines.

This is interesting! The main feature of the chainsaw engine is that the shaft speed reaches a maximum of 13600 rpm. The development of such speed by the crankshaft eliminates the need for a reducer on the chainsaw. Reducing gear is mainly used in electric saws.

The chainsaw engine in section is shown in the photo below.

Further let’s look at the structure and principle of operation of components and mechanisms of chainsaws, that will be surely useful when searching for various kinds of troubleshooting tools.

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Troubleshooting the oil pump

Regardless of the manufacturer, in any chainsaw model, malfunctions occur in the lubrication system.

The nature of faults in the lubrication system can be different, and therefore before you start repairing, it is necessary to determine the exact cause of oil leakage or lack of oil on the bar. If to exclude the probability of mechanical damages, you can allocate the following breakages of lubrication system:

• Loose line connection with chainsaw oil pump outlet fitting;
• Loose fit of parts in plunger system;
• Inconsistency of discharge chamber parameters and plunger dimensions;
• Loose oil line to oil pump inlet fitting.

It is quite easy to stop a chain saw from leaking oil if it has not been in use for a long time. You will need some screwdrivers and wrenches for this.

Troubleshooting of chainsaw plunger oil pump.

It often happens that there is no oil flow to the saw chain, even with the thumbwheel set at maximum oil flow. There are not many reasons:

After disassembling the oil pump, the adjusting screw is set 180o from its original position.

It is sufficient to re-set the adjusting screw or leave it as it is. Then the screw positions for maximum and minimum oil flow are reversed.

Profiled surface of annular groove is worn and does not look profiled anymore, but flat. Plunger does not move along its axis.

Change oil pump or shape and sharpen center projection on ram shaft face. In this case the volume of the working chamber of the pump will slightly increase.

When adjusting the profile and the lug, keep their maximum height relative to each other so that when the adjusting screw is at its minimum setting the plunger will pump a little more oil. The new pump has a center projection on the plug shaft face that is about 0.3 0.6 mm above the level of the ring profile and, in the position of the adjusting screw, the oil pump does not work at the lowest oil flow rate.

Wear on inner surface of pump plunger chamber and outer surface of plunger.

This usually occurs with the previous defect or what I will describe next. Replace oil pump or rebuild kits to size from used ones.

Watch video about plunger-type oil pump for chainsaws.

Sealing of working plunger chamber is leaking.

Oil may be getting to the lubrication point a little at a time, but the chain drive side of the saw is getting very greasy.

The last example speaks to the plunger collar, which in many cases is installed backwards, collar outwards. Some craftsmen argued that it is a collar that traps oil in the pump chamber. But how will this collar behave when pressurized?? Letting the oil flow through?

Some people pick up rubber rings instead, but believe me, it’s not easy and quite caring for the inexperienced. This method is good, but you need to consider the tightness of the seal ring. If the ring sits tightly in place, the plunger spring has to be replaced, and there is increased wear on the interface between the adjusting screw and the plunger shaft. Wear on the plastic hub of the pump drive worm gear will also be added.

The ease of plunger movement is maintained by using the collar, which does not prevent reverse travel when the plunger captures oil and maintains sufficient sealing of the working chamber when the oil is pumped.

Whenever possible, I always disassemble the oil pump on chainsaws that come to me, to be completely sure of the condition of the plunger and its cuffs. In the case where the collar is installed with the collar facing outward, then reset it the other way around, with the collar facing into the working chamber of the oil pump.

Watch video on chainsaw oil pump repair.

This is my method, which always pays off, provided no one has tampered with the oil pump and the oil is supplied to the pump through an oil filter.

The chainsaw oil pump. its purpose

The idea of using an automatic oil pump to lubricate parts is not new; using increased oil pressure to penetrate into hard-to-reach cavities has long been known. The oil pump is successfully used in internal combustion engines, when processing parts using an oil emulsion, so the idea of lubricating the working organ of a chainsaw with an oil pump has become widespread and widely used.

The saw chain consisting of connecting links and links with cutting teeth needs to overcome a lot of friction when working, both in the links joints and in the form of wood.

Also, the guide bar on which the chain runs must be kept lubricated from the attachment point to the toothed rack at the end of the chain.

The chainsaw oil pump is designed to provide effective lubrication of these two elements.

Preventive Measures

To reduce the possibility of various oil leaks while the saw is in operation, periodic maintenance should be performed. All hoses and gaskets should be monitored for leaks during this process. If any of these conditions are found, the connecting elements must be retightened.

Check oil quality at all times. It must be of good quality and used in strict accordance with the characteristics listed in the product data sheet. In this case it is in no case allowed to use sawdust, because it has a non-uniform structure. It is also absolutely necessary to periodically bleed the oil pump. This will help prevent coking of the debris in its working channels.

Poor-quality lubricant will impair the performance of the tool and shorten the life of the tool.

in addition, if lubrication is poor, the chain can break down and be replaced at a high cost.

After sawing work it is necessary to clean the saw from sawdust, which has fallen on it. If the chainsaw is not in use for long periods of time, it should be hung upright. This will allow the oil fluid to flow evenly through all the channels of the tool. This even distribution avoids vacuum blockages that can cause the oil pump to malfunction.

The chain saw chain generates a great deal of heat in the guide bar groove as it slides. If there is no oil flow to the chainsaw chain, you must stop work and take all measures to correct the faulty lubrication system. The combination of heavy loads and overheating will cause the chainsaw to wear out and fail prematurely.

• All chainsaws and their electric counterparts without exception are equipped with the same kind of systems that lubricate the bar, the saw chain and the chain drive components.
• This unit includes, as standard, a reservoir from which chain oil is pumped to the inlet of a fixed or adjustable capacity pump.
• The operating fluid is then dosed into the bar groove, where the saw chain shanks distribute it evenly over the entire guide bar and the working surface of the drive sprocket rim.

The bars are fitted with an idler sprocket from 400 mm onward. Periodic lubrication of the bearing is done individually, after 6-8 hours of operation.

Partner 350 Assembly

In order to properly reassemble your Partner 350, you must install all the parts in reverse order of removal.

If this is the first time you have tried to repair a Partner 350 chain saw, make sure to disassemble the parts in the same order you removed them. This will prevent confusion and forgetting to install any part.

An important feature of the Partner 350 chain saw engine assembly is that the crankcase cover is installed without a gasket. Use a red colored sealer instead, which is applied in a thin layer to the crankcase mounting area. Before applying the sealant, it is necessary to degrease the crankcase cover and the place where it is installed, for better adhesion of the sealant.

Adjust the flywheel-coil gap (ignition adjustment)

While reassembling the Partner 350 chain saw, if you removed not only the flywheel, but also the ignition coil, you must adjust the gap between them. To do this, first install the flywheel, then put a piece of 1/2 liter plastic bottle on it, and then put the coil and fix it with two fixing screws, while the flywheel should be turned to the coil with magnetic contacts.

After adjusting the clearance, turn the flywheel. If it does not touch the coil pins, the clearance is correct.

Disassembly of clutch and oil pump drive

Remove the drive sprocket before disassembling the clutch. For this purpose, carefully remove the lock washer from the grooves on the shaft and remove the sprocket and needle bearing.

The highest head on the 19, you need to unscrew the clutch. It has a left hand thread, so it unscrews toward the bar, not the back of the STIHL 180 saw.

After unscrewing and removing the clutch, you must immediately remove the deflector plate and the oil pump drive, this is easy to do, t. к. they are without any fasteners put on the shaft.

Extras: Carver Promo PSG 45-15 chainsaw. Review, Specifications, Reviews

Tags: STIHL saw repair

Комментарии и мнения владельцев 40

Yesterday for some reason jammed when starting the crankshaft bearings. took it apart there is dirt and everything washed and lubed. all started spinning. Reassembled. saw does not start, there is a spark, gasoline is flowing. there is only one BUT. assembled on the transparent silicone sealant. reassembled and after an hour started to try to start. silent. and under the spark plug poured also zero. maybe it does not start because of poor sealing? The saw was new and only worked 5 times.

Dirt in the bearing means dirt in the gasoline! I don’t know, try another sealant.But that is probably not the reason!

In the first part of the photo you can see a bottle of oil 80% that they are burned out and that’s why scuffs

The color of the tank quality print. Well, it’s a bad video.

You are an “expert”! 1) The picture is not visible on the label, and you see the print quality and counterfeit identified, or rather immediately saw) 2) The color of the bottle may distort the camera as you want, depending on the setting of white balance and the sensitivity of the camera. 3) I bought oil not at the market but from an authorized STIHL dealers!

Even chain saws can be repaired here))). They say the site is a car site. I also have a STIHL, 290 meters, and disassembled the oil hose changed

Good chainsaw. I have had it since 2008 and there are no problems. I saw about 12 cubic meters a year for the house heating.