How to remove the STIHL oil pump 250

Do-it-yourself STIHL 250 chainsaw repair. XL-INFO.RU

The problem is this. STIHL MS 250 saw has been in the works for six years. Oil is not fed to lubricate the chain (does not depend on the temperature of the air), to be precise, it does not go to the side of the bar, but at the same time when working intensively flows into the hole under the muffler. Cleaned and wiped it down but it’s still the same. Tell me what else you can do?

Sometimes there are. There, under the muffler, originally a plastic plug should stand. For some reason it sometimes squeezes out. You can do it, here’s what you need: A socket wrench “on 8”. remove the muffler. A long M6 tap. about 100mm long, or a standard one with an extension. M6 screw, whatever you can spare and a nut to match. Metal hacksaw. Vise. Here’s the technology: 1. Remove the muffler. 2. Remove the oil drips. 3. We put a small piece of cloth with a little tension in the hole so that it can be removed afterwards. Do not hammer it in tightly! 4. Use M6 thread tap to cut 5. 6 threads in a hole, clean it from shavings and remove a rag from a hole with a hook. 5. Cut off a piece of M6 screw with length of 5. 6 threads (or millimeters 5-6), cut the slit for a screwdriver on this piece plug is ready. (The aforementioned nut is for clamping the screw through it and not to damage the thread). 6. screw the plug into the hole. You have to be careful here. you can’t screw it in too deep or it will block the outlet. You can put a millimeter 2 mm diameter wire in it on the side of the tire mount and screw the plug in until it touches the wire. 7. mount the muffler and check oil flow.

I bought a STIHL MC 250 chainsaw. A week later, I found a black oil leak in the crankcase mount, comes from under the screw, it is located on the right, closer to the handle. There is a suspicion that the crankcase may not be hermetically sealed. What to do?

Don’t worry. there is no visible leakage. No leaks or anything like that. Only by indirect signs. at first some increase in power and maximum rpm. Then, as the leak increases, you start to have problems with idling, then. problems with starting.

Saw starts and stops. How to fix it?

You should first remove the fuel filter from the hose in the tank and try to work without it for a while. If it doesn’t work check the impulse hose, you can see it but it’s hard to see. With a small flashlight look in the gap between the top of the fuel tank and the bottom of the carburetor box. the hose should not dangle freely. it must be attached to the nipple, cast at the same time with the body of the carburetor box. Sometimes it happens. when the engine pops, it gets ripped off. If the hose is in place then it’s harder. Jiggle the right end of the crankshaft. if there is even a little play, you need to do diagnostics. May be loose pallet mounting screws, may be damaged packing (more often the right one). I can also advise you to replace the carburetor from a working saw and try to see if that’s the problem.

I have a STIHL MS 250 chain saw, bought 1.5 years ago, for making firewood. It’s clear you can’t do more than 4 hours a day and you have to give it a rest while working? If so, how much?? The saw operates in autumn and winter, for about 40 m/hour per year.

The rest there is simple. you can’t fuel a hot saw, that means you have to take a break after you have used up the fuel tank to let the saw cool down. The break time is not specified anywhere.

The tool runs fine, but when restarted (i.e. warm) does not start. Replace the spark plug or wait until it cools down?

There are two possibilities, either there is nothing to burn or nothing to ignite. That is, if the filter is clean, it means that for some reason the carburetor does not remove the suction at a warm start (and after a cold start it is removed) and the saw does not have enough air or the spark disappears when the spark plugs are warm. The mixture might be too rich. Try to turn the L screw a bit. There are 3 screws on the carburetor. T. idle, L. low rpm, H. high rpm. On the right side of the air filter cover there are holes marked with the following screws. (It is better not to turn the H screw.).

Chainsaw STIHL MS 250, 2 years working, but recently began to notice. if the long stand (more than 3 months), then when starting or does not hold idle, or at other times at high idle rpm zhe chain twists. I work out a tank of gasoline and everything comes back to normal. Where is the problem??

If you do not produce gasoline from the carburetor, that may be the reason. Gasoline evaporates, oil stays, carburetor diaphragms get stuck. Plus the fuel mixture deteriorates over time, loses its properties. Even in the can, the mixture should not be stored for more than 2 to 3 weeks.

Bought this tool. I came to the cottage, refueled, started, tried sawing. everything is fine. Well, I put the universal lever in the stop position, but it won’t stop! Anyway, I took the cover off, closed the contact. Can you enlighten me on the engine stopping device? I saw only one contact on the spring and the second is plugged into the universal lever and nothing else! There seems to be a plate there, but that’s what it is?

The end of the wire has a regular “mom” contact on it. It is inserted in the corresponding socket on the lever and the contact spring must touch it when the lever is in the “off” position. No intermediate parts. The spring on top should be. It has less of a contact function than locking the shaft in different positions.

I use a STIHL MS 250 chainsaw. I haven’t started the saw yet, I have no experience, so I have a few questions. 1. I was surprised by the brake, or rather the sound it made, a loud, unpleasant click, the whole saw resonated, is that normal?? 2. The drive sprocket is all black and red, they should all be metallic silver. What does that mean?? 3. The tire wasn’t in the box, they gave it to me separately. Wasn’t that a cause for concern??

The brake operates with a rather loud click and feel a bump. That’s a big spring, something to snap on. I don’t know about the sprocket, I would have to take a look. Bus bar and chain, yes, separately. The main thing is that both are Stilev.

After the saw is warmed up, idle rpm is lost, it stops? If the gas does not come off, you can work, as soon as you let the gas off, it stops. Starts all the time fine, but when hot to start, you have to hold down the gas, and then at idle does not start, tell me what the problem? I wanted to clarify the idle speed (chain spinning). I know there are two screws in the saw that can regulate idle speed. One LA, which can be turned by the user, and the other L, which should be turned by the service, so as not to damage the saw. According to the manual, the user is allowed to turn these two screws, and only if this does not help, should you call for service. Should I go into the carburetor settings to optimize the idle? If so, what is the algorithm?

Main malfunctions

The chain saw should be used according to the instructions, then it will last a long time and will not fail. All STIHL chain saw faults can be diagnosed and repaired by yourself. Consider the main problems that can arise in the nodes and design of the device, and how to repair the STIHL 180 chain saw with their own hands.

Plug clogging

If you see a spark plug plug on your STIHL chain saw, it may be the fuel system that is malfunctioning. The engine must run on a mixture of gasoline and oil. If you get a low mixture, it damages your power, overheats the cylinder and wears out the saw’s systems. Wet spark plugs on STIHL chain saws are caused by an incorrectly mixed fuel mixture. Lack of air in the mixture prevents proper combustion.

Using gasoline of poor quality can cause engine wear.

The spark plug is also greasy because of the use of 4-stroke oil and piston wear. If this occurs, remove fuel tank lid and adjust fuel supply. Check that the air intake is in good condition. Air must be blown through the clogged filter or better replace it. How to clean the filters is described in the instruction manual of the chainsaw.

Mixture quality can be detected with the help of the spark plug insulator. If it shows a brown color, it means that the quality of the mixture is normal. The white color or soot indicates a poor or over-enriched mixture.

The cause of oiling can be the spark plug. Interruptions in the formation of the spark are observed if the gap is not set correctly. The machine repair and operating manual gives the spark plug contact gap. If you do not have such data, you can set 0.7-1 mm.

A smaller gap reduces the efficiency of ignition of the mixture, and a larger gap leads to failure in the formation of sparks. To eliminate the over-enrichment of the mixture, make a blowdown of the motor. If so, remove the spark plug and turn the crankshaft a few times with the hand starter.

The chain is not lubricated

When repairing a chainsaw, you may notice that there is no oil on the chain. If the chain is not lubricated, there is a problem with the lubrication system. There are things that can go wrong:

• Chain is dry and light in color.
• The chain is stretching too quickly.
• The bar is too hot and the paint on it has melted.
• Oil does not run out in the tank.
• Cutting is not as good as with a sharp chain.

These signs indicate that there has been a disturbance in the lubrication process. To check the oil supply to the lubricating assembly, you need to remove the bar and turn on the chainsaw. Then increase the speed and watch the oil line end point. If oil is flowing, it means there is not enough oil for proper lubrication. If there is no flow, clean the filter. The oil flow should also be adjusted. If there are no faults, further diagnosis and manual repair are needed. If it is found that the substance is not supplied, the oil system is repaired.

Let’s look at the main faults and methods of their elimination:

• Oil hose breakage. You can see this when you look at it. In this case it is necessary to replace the hose.
• If there is no thread on the oil pump shaft, it should be replaced.
• If there are thread defects, the threads must be replaced.
• If the main shaft corkscrew is missing, you can install a nail of the same diameter in its place.
• The filter could be clogged. This happens frequently with the STIHL MS 180. You can flush it with petrol. If this does not solve the problem, the filter must be changed.

STIHL 180 chain saws often have a leak in the oil pipe. Occurs where the oil pipe from the oil tank is inserted into the tool body. You can tell when there is oil leakage on the underside of the saw.

To fix the problem, you need to remove the saw handle, pull out the hose. After that you need to clean the hose. Then apply sealant and put it back in the housing.

It will not start

If the chain saw doesn’t start, the cause may be a breakdown in the ignition and engine start assembly. If no abnormalities are found when measuring the clearance between the module and the flywheel, the spark plug should be checked. It is pulled out of the shaft and measure the gap. If the fuel enters the combustion chamber, and there is no breakdown in the ignition system, then the carburetor is defective.

No RPM; check carburetor and spark plugs

If the saw does not maintain idle speed, the following may have occurred:

For self-repair you need to perform the following steps:

• Clean or replace fuel hose.
• Clean filter.
• Check the quality of gasoline and oil.
• Check carburetor and spark plugs.

STIHL chain saws work properly after repairs.

If the saw does not pick up speed, this could be the cause:

• A faulty engine;
• Cylinder wear;
• Failure of piston rings;
• spark plug failure;
• Coil malfunction;
• unbalanced carburetor screws.

If no defects are found after testing, check carburetor.

Faults in the pump and the system as a whole

Nothing lasts forever in this world, and over time it all has to be repaired. The STIHL oil system in the mc 180 is no exception, and has its own specific faults. Let’s see them in detail.

Signs of a faulty lubrication system are as follows:

• chainsaw chain is completely dry and shiny;
• Oil in the oil tank won’t run out;
• the chain stretches quickly and this happens all the time;
• The saw’s guide bar moves sideways when sawing;
• The bar gets hot and the paint in the area of the drive sprocket is melted.

All of these signs, directly or indirectly, indicate problems in the chainsaw chain lubrication system.

The first thing to do after you suspect that the chain oil is not coming is to check the oil flow. There are two ways to do it. The first is described in detail in the instruction to the tool and consists in the fact that it is necessary to start the chainsaw, gas up to the maximum and direct it towards some obstacle.

If the lubrication system is operating properly, oil will fly off the tip of the bar and a strip of oil drops will appear on the surface, towards which the bar is directed. If there are still irregularities in the system, the surface will remain clean.

The second way is to remove the bar from the chainsaw and start it. When you increase the engine speed, at the place where the tire shank is installed, oil will flow from the oil channel, if this does not happen, it is necessary to look for the cause of the malfunction.

Diagnose

Start by inspecting and checking the oil receiver (filter) of the STIHL 180 saw. As a rule, if the filter is heavily contaminated, the oil supply may stop.

To save money, a clogged filter, you can try to clean by washing it well in gasoline.

Next, you must remove the sprocket drum, and check the condition of the drive pinion. The threads on it should be well-defined, not nicked or have any other defects, also with the gear removed, you should check the wire lever. It should be able to crimp the pinion tightly and not turn, otherwise the pinion will not turn and will not transmit power to the pump, which will cause the loss of oil flow.

If all of the above methods of troubleshooting fail, extreme measures must be used. е. dismantle the pump.

How to remove the pump

The oil pump is installed on the right side of the base of the housing and the oil pipe from the gasoline tank is connected to it at the same place. To remove the pump you must first loosen the saw from the handle, to do this unscrew the rear handle of the unit and disconnect the throttle control rod. The next step is to take out the plugs of the handle shock absorbers and use a strong slotted screwdriver to press them out of their seats on the handle.

After the handle is removed, the chain saw body is turned upside down. The hose from the oil tank to the pump is immediately visible. It is necessary to remove it from its seat.

The pump can be removed with an M5 threaded screw and a broad washer. Screw length should be approximately 45-50mm. A washer is put on the screw and it is screwed into the pump (the inside of the pump is threaded). Next, as the screw is screwed in, a stop made of a washer will force the oil pump up the threads. To do this, the pump is removed from its seat. Before starting work we advise to read how to disassemble the STIHL 180.

For a better understanding of the pump removal process, you can watch the video below. In the video, the SC master shows in detail how to remove the oil pump from the chainsaw, and describes the main faults of the feeding system.

The STIHL oil pump 180 is a high-quality and robust spare part, so it should only be replaced if all other system components have been checked.

After the pump is removed it must be cleaned and vented. Typically, the main breakdown of an oil pump, is its clogging. After fixing it you can reinstall the pump.

Assembling the STIHL Saw 180 Video

The STIHL MS 180 is a rugged, reliable and undemanding machine, but it can be serviced from time to time. just like any machine. Here’s a look at how a STIHL mc 180 chain saw disassembles, in case you need to do a complete overhaul of the engine.

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preparatory step

Repairing any machine has to start with a preliminary step saw

STIHL 180, are no exception. The first step before any disassembly of the STIHL 180 chain saw is to remove the side cover, the chain and the guide bar. Next, with a compressor and a brush, you need to clean the chain saw from dirt, sawdust, oil stains and the rest.

When cleaning your chain saw, special attention should be paid to the place where the chain saw‘s drive sprocket is located, i.e. on the right side of the guide bar. к. This is the dirtiest part.

Where there is a huge accumulation of oil, you can wash with unstained gasoline.

Removing the handle

Disassembling the STIHL 180 begins with removing the handle, which is attached to the body of the chain saw using 3 rubber buffers. To remove the starter, you must remove the plastic plugs from the inside cavity of the shock absorbers, then using a strong screwdriver, first squeeze the upper shock absorber, then the one closest to the rear handle.

Reassembling the STIHL 180.

In the back of the handle is the throttle trigger, which is connected to the carburetor through a wire rod, if you set out to disconnect the rod from the throttle trigger, you need to unscrew two screws and disassemble the handle.

When the handle remains on one shock absorber, you must unscrew the chain saw body from the inside of the handle and, breaking it to the side, remove the body from the last rubber.

Removing the starter

Next, remove the top cover housing and unscrew the 4 screws fastening the starter, then you need to remove the oil tank and fuel tank covers. The starter can be removed quite easily and there should be no fuss.

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One of the most important chainsaw systems you can’t work without is the chainsaw’s force feed chain lubrication system. It’s no secret that while working, the saw chain rubs off on the chainsaw bar, which causes it to heat up and wear out prematurely. Ц.

After removing the starter, the exposed inner cavity of the chainsaw needs to be cleaned, t. к. usually on the housing under the starter has a solid amount of compressed small sawdust.

Handwheel removal

Handwheel chain saw STIHL 180 is screwed with a huge force, to remove it will need a head with an iron screwdriver. The nut that holds the flywheel can be unscrewed using a 13 head.

To block the crankshaft from turning, you need to unscrew the spark plug and through the spark plug hole set the piston stopper, if it is not available, use an old starter cord, with the knots tied to this address and immersed in the cylinder through the spark plug hole.

Never use a screwdriver or other tool to hold the flywheel at the fins because this torsion locking method makes the flywheel blades more vulnerable to breakage.

SHTIL MS 180: assembly

and parts overview of the STIHL MS180 chain saw.

After the piston is locked in the cylinder, you can unscrew the flywheel nut. The threads in the nut are standard, so you should turn it to the left. After loosening the nut, do not remove it all the way, just unscrew it until its upper edge lines up with the tip of the shaft, after which the soft metal mallet installed on the nut and make a sharp blow on it. The flywheel will thus come off the shaft and can be easily removed without using any additional tools.

Disassembly of clutch and oil pump drive

Before disassembling the clutch, it is necessary to remove the drive sprocket. To do this, carefully remove the lock washer from the slots on the shaft and remove the sprocket and needle bearing.

Using a high head for 19, it is necessary to unscrew the clutch. The threads on it are on the left, so it unscrews toward the guide bar and not toward the rear of the STIHL 180.

Carburetor, muffler, and ignition coil

To remove the carburetor, you need to have a head for 8 and an extension cord, with which it is convenient to unscrew the nuts fixing the carburetor and the air filter. Before the carburetor can be removed, the ignition wire and choke linkage must be disconnected from the engine control lever and the lever removed, only then is the air filter and carburetor removed.

• To begin repairing the carburetor, they begin by cleaning them of dirt and dust, precious wood. Use a brush. When the surface is completely clean of debris, the repairman removes the cover and then the filter.
• The air manifold is free after unscrewing the air filter mount. The user now has access to the gas pedal and connecting rods. The gas pedal lever is immediately removed when the bolt is lowered by pressing down with your finger.
• From the seat, the carburetor is withdrawn after removing and closing the intake lever. The wire is then removed and pulled to stop the engine. Remove the plastic lever, which is the attachment point for the wire.
• It is lifted to the left. This releases the carburetor, allowing it to be pulled out and cleaned. A compressor is handy for this purpose. If it is not there, the parts are cleaned with clean gasoline.

The process of assembling the carburetor saw is carried out in reverse order. If, after this process, smoke comes out of the muffler and the saw engine does not start well, you need to make sure that there is a spring under the needle lever.

The spring stops the fuel supply. In its absence there is an involuntary “pouring” of fuel into the spark plug. It is important to make sure that the spring is in place and the spark plug works.

If the spark plug is filled with gasoline, it should be dried. To do this, the part is twisted, fuses, excess fuel trapped inside, through the existing hole. The spark plug dries for more than half an hour. It is then put back in place and the chainsaw is put back into service.

Insufficient contact between the high-voltage wire and the end of the plug can also be the cause of tool failure. STIHL chain saw parts can be repaired by replacing problematic parts.

For example, when a spark plug fails, it is replaced with a reliable. Chains, sprockets, bars are subject to rapid wear. They perform anti-vibration tasks in the chainsaw, so their replacement is urgent. It is recommended that such parts be kept in storage.

Particular attention is paid to the oil pump

The oil supply can be interrupted for a variety of reasons. The most common failure of the oil pump. You can check it if the chain is lubricated.

If the oil supply to the circuit is interrupted, the oil becomes dry or excessively wet. These are signs of a bad oil pump.

Inspection hose is checked to correct the problem. The hose connection to the oil pump and the tank is checked for leaks.

These problems occur as a result of mechanical damage to parts of the oil system. This unit is disassembled to get to the problem area.

If the repairman is sure that the hose is damaged, replace it. However, depending on the degree of damage, special connections can be sealed.

Wash and degrease the surface before sealing. By repairing the STIHL ms 180 yourself, consumers have the opportunity to save significantly.

Identify problems when starting your unit

There may be a problem when the rest 180 does not start. This usually occurs due to a failure of the starter. The unit does not actually start after pulling the cord.

Causes of starter failure may be:

Before finding out the cause of the failure and begin repairing the chainsaw starter, the chainsaw housing is removed. To do this, unscrew the screws fixing the starter cover.

In this case, use a screwdriver or a special tool. A visual inspection of the starter reveals the reasons why the tool didn’t start.

Damage to the pulley by cracks and tears affects tool performance. Detection of mechanical problems or defects in the attachment point of the soft spring.

The attachment point as well as the spring tip inserted in it are vulnerable. If any part of the starter is defective or damaged, replace it with a new one.

Disassembly and maintenance of the STIHL 180 chain saw. Video

The unit can be repaired with a quality repair that fully respects the original chain saw parts. The same parts replacement pattern applies to self saws.

STIHL chain saw main breakdowns and repair steps

Faults most commonly encountered:

• the saw won’t start or constantly stalls, both when idling and under load;
• Loss of power is noticeable;
• smoke is visible at startup;
• Your STIHL chain saw doesn’t start right away;
• Engine is running, but the chain will not turn.
• No oil flow to the chain

To avoid premature failure:

• Do not overload equipment;
• use only quality gasoline and original engine oil in the correct proportion;
• timely filters, spark plugs and have them serviced by an authorized service center;
• do not saw with a chain with blunt teeth (we can both sharpen the old chain and buy a new one).
• Before we start the repair, our technicians first run a diagnostic test on the STIHL chain saw. This will help to pinpoint the source of the problem and decide on further action. The customer will receive full information about the condition and causes of his tool failure, as well as the cost of fixing the failure. When you come to our STIHL Service Center in St. Petersburg we can make an appointment in just 1 day.
• According to test results damaged parts can be repaired or replaced. The customer can choose the original spare parts or their certified analogues, which will allow to save additional money.
• After STIHL repair, the STIHL chain saw is checked in the presence of the customer. He makes a payment and receives a warranty for all the work.

Tags: STIHL chain saw repair

Комментарии и мнения владельцев 40

yesterday the crankshaft bearings jammed on startup for some reason. took it apart there is dirt and everything washed and lubed. everything started spinning. Reassembled it. The saw won’t start. The spark is there, the gas is coming. there is only one BUT. assembled with clear silicone sealant. assembled and an hour later started to try to start. silent. I poured zero under the spark plug as well. maybe it will not start from bad sealing? the saw was new and worked 5 times.

Dirt in the bearing means dirt in the gasoline! I don’t know, try another sealant.But that’s probably not the reason!

in the first part of the photo you can see a bottle of oil 80% 80% of it is bad and that’s why they are scuffed

The color of the container print quality. Well, the video is bad.

You’re the expert! 1) the label is not visible on the photo, and you can see the print quality and determine the fake, or rather SEEN it) 2) the color of the bottle can distort the camera as you like, depending on the white balance setting and the sensitivity of the camera itself. 3) I bought oil from STIHL DEALER!

they even repair chain saws here))). They say this site is for cars. I, too, have a STIHL, 290 meters, and disassembled to change the oil hose

Good chainsaw. I have been running since 2008 and have no problems. Saw about 12 cubes a year for home heating.

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Sprocket replacement

The most frequent reason of failure in this element is chain jamming because of chain warping or considerable wear of chainsaw sprocket itself

If you see any signs of these defects, carefully inspect the plane and teeth of the drive transmission element, paying attention to the depth of drift (it must not exceed 0.5 mm)

If you notice heavy wear or deformation on the sprocket body, it can sometimes be repaired, but if the problem is serious you need to replace it completely. Before beginning the repair work, regardless of the type of damage found, it is necessary to remove the chain saw sprocket and free it from the fasteners that hold it in place.

The clutch of most chainsaws is the same. To disassemble it you should use a spark plug wrench that usually comes with the chainsaw, a clutch puller and a piston stopper.

First unscrew and remove the bar and remove the chain. Remove the top cover to gain access to the spark plug, unscrew it and install the piston stopper. Often a rope or string is used for the stopper, but experts advise against it. It is better to use a special stopper when removing the clutch. Remove the side cover, unscrew the clutch clutch (clockwise!) and get to the sprocket.

The other option is to unscrew the starter and remove the guard to hold the assembly from the back side, which is screwed through. The order of complete disassembly of main parts of the chainsaw is well presented in the video

All removed parts must be stored in one place so they do not get lost. You can take pictures of the chainsaw assemblies to quickly reassemble the tool in the reverse order after the repair.

Repair of chainsaw pump

There is a perception that it is quite problematic to make the repair of the oil pump of a chainsaw with your own hands. In fact, with basic locksmith skills and general concepts and rotating mechanisms, you can easily restore its original parameters. To do this, you need to prepare the following tools and accessories:

To troubleshoot a pump, you have to dismantle it without touching the working part.

Between the two halves of the unit should be present sealing gasket, which in the presence of tears and differences in height will need to be replaced with a new one. The next step is to check the integrity of the supply hose. On its cylindrical formation should be absent crevices and cracks, which can further lead to loss of tightness of the system. If found, the lines must be replaced, and the good hose must be flushed and installed on the sealant to the ends of the tank and the pump.

Oil pump outlet ducts must be free of foreign matter (dust, shavings, dirt). Such blockages can lead not only to a deterioration of the lubrication process and the formation of vacuum plugs that can damage the supply lines.

Muffler disassembly and cleaning

If the engine runs normally at low speeds and begins to stall at high speeds, the cause may be hidden in a spark plug cap clogged with combustion products.

• Remove the muffler;
• Disassemble (there are inseparable models);
• Clean the deposits with detergents;
• Dry out;
• Reinstall.

Chemical cleaning is not allowed because tanning contains carcinogenic substances that are hazardous to health if inhaled. After removing the muffler, cover the branch with a clean cloth.

READ Chain for chainsaw slash saw Distinction

Malfunctions in a chainsaw indicate a possible muffler blockage

The composition of the fuel mixture must be monitored to prevent clogging of the muffler. The amount of oil should not exceed the manufacturer’s recommendations. Poor oil quality also has a negative effect on engine performance.

Choosing the right oil

Once you have acquired the machine you may be wondering what oil to put in your STIHL chain saw? If you take good care of the technique, designed for work in construction and garden, you can greatly improve the level of direct operation of the device does not face a breakdown of various kinds.

It is worth noting that the most important factors in the direct function of the device is the use of proper lubricants and fuels. Though the main problems of the owners of this equipment take place exactly with the choice of oil for their “pets. The lubrication points on the STIHL chain saws are described here to show how to choose the correct lubricant for the particular STIHL chain saw.

A chainsaw is a hand-held tool designed for working with wooden material. It is equipped with a gasoline internal-combustion engine. Is a complicated constructional device. During the operation the factory settings are disturbed, and therefore the chainsaw periodically requires such a procedure as adjustment.

Design of chainsaw

The chainsaw consists of several major independent components.

• Internal combustion engine is designed to produce mechanical energy that is used to drive the chainsaw.
• Gearbox transmits torque from engine to cutting tool. It consists of a set of gears and intermediate shafts.
• Clutch is an intermediate link between the gearbox and the chain. It is used to break the chain between the gearbox and the chain for a short period of time. Ensures that the chainsaw remains stationary at idle speed. Interrupts or loosens the transmission torque in abnormal situations (e.g., braking the saw to a complete stop), allowing the engine to run and not stall.
• Automatic brake interrupts chain operation if chain breaks off, comes off the tree being cut, or if abnormal operating conditions arise.
• The guide bar for the chainsaw.
• Chain tensioning mechanism.
• Chain lubricator and other components.

Faults and how to fix them

Problems with the oil pump can be divided into two categories. The first is no oil supply at all, the second is leaking. Depending on the type of problem and the main “symptom”, you need to act differently.

No oil supply

If there is no oil supply to the saw head and you do not observe any leakage, it can be assumed that the plunger is stationary. Why does the ram stand in place?? It can be worn or the screw it is connected to is not installed correctly. The latter may be in an unnatural position, which is often due to improper assembly of this assembly.

It is necessary to be guided by /-, special marks. Such marks, of course, can be lined up in the correct position, but the screw will not stand as it should (oppositely). How to fix such a problem? Simply disassemble the pump and put the screw as it is supposed to be. Sometimes it just needs to be turned to the “-” mark. The screw itself can’t go back in place, so it blocks the plunger movement.

How do you know if the plunger is worn out?? Pay attention to its end, or rather to the edge of the end, which can be worn away. Then you will not see the characteristic protruding part in this place. This is about level with the whole edge. How to solve this problem? There are two options:

If you choose the second option, don’t forget to grind the shoulder in the center. Keep in mind that the pump will work after turning, but the oil pump will be enlarged by shifting the plunger.

Another problem sometimes happens, where the oil flows out, but the pump doesn’t work as it should. Then you need to check the inlet and outlet hose. One of them might be disconnected. If it happens to the inlet hose, oil will leak even when the saw is not running. If the output hose is disconnected, oil will be pouring when the engine is running. It’s easy to fix, just connect the hoses again.

Leak

It would seem that we have examined the cause of oil leakage. Yes indeed, sometimes it happens because the hoses are disconnected. But, it has nothing to do with the pump itself. So now let’s look at the causes of leaks, which are related to pump failures.

Leakage may occur when the rubber sleeve ceases to provide a seal. The sealant may be badly worn or the sealant may not be properly installed.

Before you look for a new pump on your Partner chainsaw due to constant leaks, remove the components and consider the collar, which may be installed with the collar turned toward the oil reservoir. If it is standing like this, turn it around about 180 degrees. If you see that the oil seal is worn out, replace it with a new one. Of course, try to find the perfect collar. If you can’t find one, buy a seal ring from a plumbing supply store.

If you still see leaks after that, examine the walls of the pump cylinder, which may be worn out. In that case, it’s easier to buy a new pump.

Oil Pump Faults

Regardless of the manufacturer, the lubrication system of any chain saw can be at fault.

Chainsaw oil pump assembly

The nature of faults in the lubrication system can be different, so before you start repairing it is necessary to determine exactly the cause of oil leakage or lack of oil on the bar. If you exclude the possibility of mechanical damage, you can identify the following breakdowns of the lubrication system:

• The line connection to the chainsaw oil pump outlet is not tight;
• Loose fit of parts in the plunger system;
• No correspondence of parameters of the plunger and the plunger dimensions;
• Lack of tightness of the oil line with the oil pump inlet fitting.

If the plunger system is not tight and the lubrication tank is above it, oil will leak quickly (2-3 days).

It is easy enough to eliminate oil leakage from a chainsaw if it has not been used for a long time. You will need some screwdrivers and wrenches.