How to rivet a chainsaw chain with your own hands

General rules for sharpening chainsaw chains

Chain sharpeners

The round file holder has a mowing line that allows it to be correctly positioned in relation to the chain. The holder fits onto the sharpened tooth in accordance with the line orientation. In this case, the insert itself rests on the upper edge of the tooth and the depth gauge, and the file is located under the cutting edge.

The use of a holder ensures that the file will fit to the tooth at the correct height. There are different tool holders for different pitches of the saw chain. The correct choice of holder, combined with the correct file diameter, ensures that the file protrudes over the back of the tooth by 1/5 of its diameter. Use only special saw chain files.

Before sharpening the chainsaw chain, it is advisable to secure the bar. When sharpening, it is necessary, while maintaining the position of the holder and pressing the file to the sharpened edge, to make several (2-3) turning movements away from you. Do not try to press too hard on the file, the movements should be smooth and measured. Rotate the file regularly to avoid one-sided wear. All other teeth are sharpened in the same way. It is more convenient to first sharpen the teeth in one direction, then change the position and do the same with the teeth in the other direction.

When sharpening all teeth, do the same number of strokes with the file at the same pressure. This will result in the same tooth length. All cutting teeth must be of the same length. Different tooth lengths cause uneven chain running and cracking. If the length of the teeth is not the same, all cutting teeth must be filed to the length of the shortest tooth.

After several sharpening of the cutting teeth, the depth gauge is ground. To do this, a template is superimposed on it so that the stopper falls into the slot, and the tip protruding from the slot is grinded with a flat file.

The principle of using another set for sharpening chainsaw chains does not differ from the first, although its design is different.

A round file is also used to sharpen the cutting tooth, and the depth gauge is used to sharpen the depth gauge. flat. A special template provides parameters for sharpening both cutting teeth and stops. In the first case, it is superimposed on the chain in such a way that it falls into its slots. The file, placed on the template and brought under the cutting edge, rests on the guide rollers. The direction of movement of the file must be parallel to the lateral edges of the template.

When sewing the stopper, the template is applied so that the stopper falls into the cut, next to which is written SOFT (for soft wood) or HARD (for hard wood). As in the case of the first device, the file is seamed with smooth, even movements of the flat file away from you.

Chain Teeth Parameters

To achieve optimal cutting properties, the tooth blades are given specific angles. The back of the tooth falling back at an angle forms the posterior angle of the upper blade. This angle is needed to cut the upper blade into the wood.

The backward tapering blade of the tooth forms the back angle of the end blade. This angle is needed for side cutting of the chips.

The edge of the end blade forms a rake angle with the sliding surface of the cutting link. Front angles for different types of chains vary from 60 ° to 85 °.

The back angle of the upper blade characterizes the backward tilt of the upper blade.

This angle is measured relative to the sliding plane of the cutting link and, depending on the type of saw chain, ranges from 50 ° to 60 °. The top blade is the main blade and the back corner of the top blade. this is the most important corner. The clearance angle of the upper blade is difficult to measure, the correct value is obtained by observing other prescribed values.

The sharpening angle or entering angle is obtained by measuring from the top cutting edge at right angles to the guide bar.

The sharpening angle can be changed, depending on the application. Rule of thumb: the larger the sharpening angle, the higher the cutting performance when cutting non-frozen softwood. Reducing the angle of sharpening when cutting frozen and / or hard wood contributes to a smoother saw blade and less vibration. However, sharpening angles greater than 35 ° and less than 25 ° should be avoided (except for rip chains where this angle is 10 °).

The rake angle, sharpening angle and upper blade angle change when sharpening. These angles have a decisive influence on the cutting performance of the chain. Be sure to observe the prescribed values.

A depth stop is located on each cutting link in front of the tooth scapula. The difference in height between the top edge of the depth gauge and the front edge of the back of the tooth is defined as the distance of the depth gauge.

The depth of penetration of the upper blade into the wood (chip thickness) and thus productivity depends on the distance of the depth gauge. The distance of the depth gauge is set depending on the chain pitch and the type of execution. Normally, it should be 0.5-0.8 mm, more often 0.6 mm. High values ​​will lead to an increased tendency of the chainsaw to kickback, too much grip and chain vibration. Low values ​​lead to a drop in performance. Since the distance of the depth gauge decreases with each sharpening of the saw due to a decrease in the upper edge of the tooth, the depth gauge also needs to be filed periodically. after 5-10 chain sharpenings.

Do-it-yourself chainsaw sharpening

The tooth of the chain planes the wood like a plane, and the thickness of the chips is adjusted by the height of the stopper.

Intense sawing will quickly dull the chain. Several sharpenings may be required within one day. The problem is aggravated by the fact that the tooth quickly dulls when it meets the ground. It is enough to hook the soil with the tire once or twice, and the work can be stopped. the shavings become fine and the saw stops going deep into the wood.

The sooner dull teeth are sharpened, the less material needs to be removed during sharpening, as a result. the service life of the saw chain is longer. Determining the moment when sharpening is already required is quite simple. An important feature is the feed force. A properly sharpened chain is pulled into the cut with just a little pressure. If, on the contrary, the chainsaw is forced to cut by increased feed force, then the teeth are dull. A dull chain can also be recognized if, instead of large, thick chips, only small chips fly out of the cut.

In this situation, the chainsaw must be sharpened urgently. Do not cut with a dull or defective saw chain. the consequence is high stress in the body, high cyclic load, poor cutting results. In addition, this means a decrease in productivity, high fuel consumption and increased wear of all parts of the chainsaw.

Chainsaw chain sharpening machines

Stihl produces two modifications of hand-held machine tools. stationary FG 2 and mobile FG 1, mounted directly on the tire. There are analogues of less well-known companies, comparable in price with the simpler devices described above.

The working part of these devices structurally resembles a bow saw, into which a round long file is inserted instead of a saw blade. FG 1 and FG 2 not only sharpen the chains, but also straighten them, adjusting the length of the top edge of all teeth to the same size. on the smallest tooth, which is taken as the control one. A rather complex configuration mechanism allows you to set all the necessary parameters. Sharpening is carried out in 2-3 movements, after which they proceed to the next tooth, keeping for it all the settings that were made for the control tooth. This ensures the same sharpening parameters for all teeth. When sewing the stopper, the round file changes to a flat file.

An electric chain sharpener for chainsaws is simple and convenient to use. It has an adjustment system that allows you to set the chain at the desired angle and bring the disc exactly to the sharpened edge. There are machines that automatically clamp the vice when lowering the disc onto the chain.

But if you’re just passing us, you can still:

Chainsaw chain. Chainsaw chain repair experience. How to repair and shorten a chain.

Section: Gardening equipment and tools

An acquaintance, having sold his summer cottage, was also selling the appropriate equipment, including a chainsaw. He sold the chainsaw, but sorting out the remaining junk, he found a pair of brand new spare chains for his chainsaw. Well, he asked them to me. His chainsaw was notable, almost professional, and with a long tire. Accordingly, the chains are long. And my chainsaw is “for the house, for the family.” Those. the chain did not fit on a straight line in any way, as do not push the tire. Well, at least the pitch of the links coincided. And to change the tire. there is not much sense. And it’s expensive, and then their chains will “hang”. And the motor in my chainsaw is not the one to drive a long tire.

Therefore, I decided to shorten the chains a little, removing unnecessary links from them. Having counted the number of links in his “native” chain and the number of links in the “gift”, he calculated how many links should be removed. By the way, it is not the number of teeth that are considered, but the number of protrusions on the inner side of the chain, to which the chainsaw gears cling.

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The rivets of the chain are made of a very hard metal, as the chain is subjected to very severe stress. Therefore, it will not be possible to simply take and rivet the chains. I had to very carefully grind off the heads of two rivets on the sharpener, so that some of the links could be removed. At the same time, I tried not to damage the links themselves too much.

To free one of the link sidewalls, I had to knock the rivet out of the link with the help of a beard. over, the rivet does not fall out of the link. it is pressed into it so firmly.

How to make the right rivets with an electric drill?

Chainsaw chain structure.

Do not be afraid: no one offers you to buy a machine. Use a conventional drill. The whole process of making rivets using an electric drill and a conventional file will be described as follows. From a nail, the diameter of which is equal to the diameter of the inner part of the rivets (check with a caliper), a workpiece is cut out. a piece about 7 cm long. This workpiece is fixed in the head of the electric drill. The drill itself must also be securely fixed.

Two files are fixed on a wooden beam, the distance between which will be equal to the width of the inner part of the rivet. You may not be able to do this quickly, but you must be absolutely precise. It remains only to organize a uniform supply of the bar to the workpiece. We recommend using a piece of board, one end of which we fix to the stationary part of the workbench using a wide door hinge, and on the second end of the board we fix a bar with files.

We check the perpendicularity of the location of the files and the workpiece. and you can start working. Turn on the electric drill and smoothly lower the files. They will make grooves on the workpiece. It is not recommended to make rivets in one go, since it is not worth overheating the metal, but it is necessary to control the thickness of the workpiece on the machined part. A too thin part of the rivet can damage you too, so you need to achieve maximum accuracy. If you were able to do everything correctly, then all that remains is to cut the rivet and use it to connect the chain links.

It is better to cut the rivet by hand, without using an angle grinder. Do not forget that when cutting metal at high tool speeds, a significant increase in the temperature of the material will occur, which is very undesirable. The finished rivet is in no way inferior to the factory product in quality, so the restored chain will serve for a long time. Negative moments when using homemade rivets will be practically eliminated. The main thing is that when installing the rivets, you do not forget to align the side parts of the links (after all, they had to be unbent when separating the chain). Even a slight protrusion of these elements from the design standard will lead to premature wear of the drive sprocket.

It is recommended to make several rivets at once using the method described earlier. The point here is not only to stock up on such necessary elements for future use (although this is also important). The most important thing from the total number of products is to choose the most suitable size: any deviation from the norm will make the chain vulnerable at high loads.

The use of remanufactured chains is not recommended when working with dense wood species.

Required tools

Chainsaw manufacturers claim that it is impossible to shorten the chain at home, since the very technology of their manufacture is very complex and requires high-precision equipment. Practice shows that nothing is impossible. In order to shorten the chain, you need:

  • vice;
  • hammer;
  • file;
  • beard;
  • pliers;
  • electric welding machine (in some cases, you can do without it).

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How to rivet a chainsaw chain with your own hands

An acquaintance, having sold his summer cottage, was also selling the appropriate equipment, including a chainsaw. He sold the chainsaw, but sorting out the remaining junk, he found a pair of brand new spare chains for his chainsaw. Well, he asked them to me. His chainsaw was notable, almost professional, and with a long tire. Accordingly, the chains are long. And my chainsaw is “for the house, for the family.” Those. the chain did not fit on a straight line in any way, as do not push the tire. Well, at least the pitch of the links coincided. And to change the tire. there is not much sense. And it’s expensive, and then their chains will “hang”. And the motor in my chainsaw is not the one to drive a long tire.

Therefore, I decided to shorten the chains a little, removing unnecessary links from them. Having counted the number of links in his “native” chain and the number of links in the “gift”, he calculated how many links should be removed. By the way, it is not the number of teeth that are considered, but the number of protrusions on the inner side of the chain, to which the chainsaw gears cling.

The rivets of the chain are made of a very hard metal, as the chain is subjected to very severe stress. Therefore, it will not be possible to simply take and rivet the chains. I had to very carefully grind off the heads of two rivets on the sharpener, so that some of the links could be removed. At the same time, I tried not to damage the links themselves too much.

To free one of the link sidewalls, I had to knock the rivet out of the link with the help of a beard. over, the rivet does not fall out of the link. it is pressed into it so firmly. I had to bend the sidewall to remove the chain link from the rivet axis.

I did the same with the other rivet and link.

After removing the extra chain links, I had to reconnect the chain, and reliably enough. The rivet in the chain is loaded laterally. In addition, it is shaped like a trunnion. Those. the center part of the rivet has a larger diameter than its edges, which are inserted into the sidewalls of the chain link. Therefore, choosing a replacement for a rivet is very problematic, you cannot make it out of a nail. I decided to use a regular rivet.

Having connected the links of the chain, I decided to restore the previously ground off rivet head using. welding. The rivet head is not heavily stressed. It only keeps the sidewalls of the link from disconnecting.

Since it was practically necessary to put only a “point” when touching with an electrode, a few millimeters in size, I took the thinnest electrode that I had. 1.5 mm. To make the hit as accurate as possible, I shortened the electrode to a few centimeters. I picked up the current on the welding machine so that the arc was stable but not excessively strong. After practicing in “accuracy” with another electrode, I fixed the chain in a vise, and holding a glass magnifier in my left hand, struck a “blow” into the place of the rivet. where the rivet head should have been. The welding itself lasted no more than a second, so I didn’t even use a mask, I just put on dark glass glasses.

As you can see in the photo, it was almost perfectly possible to restore the rivet head. I fiddled with the first chain for almost an hour, but I managed the second in barely 10 minutes. So I managed to adapt the long chains to my shorter chainsaw tire.

Both chains, naturally, were immediately tested “in battle”. No abnormalities were noted and the chains were not broken. Perhaps my experience will be useful to someone when restoring, repairing or shortening (or lengthening) the chain for their chainsaw.

Almost every owner of suburban housing has a chainsaw in stock. And we don’t even have to talk about the inhabitants of rural areas: such a tool is a vital necessity for them. And it requires a chainsaw to take care of itself and timely maintenance. All service rules are clearly spelled out in the instructions.

Why are chains stretched??

This happens due to the fact that the oil supply to the driven sprocket is not adjusted. It may happen that the oil supply hole is clogged or the adjustment is out of order. The chainsaw needs periodic maintenance and adjustment.

The chains also stretch due to wear on the drive sprocket. It turns out that on the worn sprocket there is a slip of the guide protrusions. Parts with such friction are very quickly heated, hence the reason for the stretching of the chains. In practice, the same happens when the chain tension is low. The conclusion suggests itself: it is necessary to replace the drive sprocket, chainsaw tires, adjust all elements. Otherwise, the problem will only get worse: the chainsaw will start to work in jerks, the chains will continue to stretch, the engine will fail (with a very high degree of probability).

And we also note that when working with a chainsaw, you must use protective equipment.

This is especially true if you are using a chain that has undergone restoration.

How to shorten your chainsaw chain?

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January 18, 2015
at 1:56

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January 18, 2015
at 4:43

January 21, 2015
at 17:38

02 February 2015
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at 10:56

Signs of chain cutting edge wear

First of all, it should be remembered that the sharpening of the chain must be carried out in compliance with the peculiarities of the shape of its tooth. So, in modern tools, the teeth are located in two ways: from the side or from the top.

It is important to take into account the sharpening angle, since the cutting elements are at a certain degree, which is almost the main criterion when processing the cutting edge. This parameter is usually indicated on the packaging.

The denser the material for cutting, the dumber the sharpening angle should be. As a rule, craftsmen who saw a lot and often have several chains with different angles of the tooth.

For example, for longitudinal sawing of a tree, its value is in the region of 10. 12 degrees.

The main signs of the need to perform the procedure are as follows:

  • in the process of work, the tool randomly moves from side to side, regardless of the angle of inclination;
  • the speed and efficiency of work falls;
  • shavings obtained in the process of sawing wood differ from the standard appearance and texture;
  • the cutting blade is not tensioned enough.

Safety precautions provide for working only with serviceable tools to avoid not only damage to equipment, but also dangerous injuries.

How to sharpen a chainsaw chain with a hand machine?

If the saw blade is strongly deformed during operation, then it will be extremely problematic to fix its cutting elements with a file. In such a situation, the right solution would be to use a machine.

The chain sharpener can be used both electric and manual. Both designs are based on the same element. a whetstone (sometimes special circles).

The preparatory stage before processing the cutting edge includes the following activities:

  • the fastening mechanism holding the chain clamp should be loosened;
  • the saw teeth must be positioned so that they are at a certain angle, namely in the direction of the machine;
  • you can provide the desired angle by tightly fixing the canvas.

Before using the machine, you must familiarize yourself with the following list of recommendations that can simplify the work process and carry out the entire procedure as efficiently and correctly as possible:

  • immediately before the event, you should decide on the degree of sharpening of the canvas. The coarsest and most damaged saw tooth can help in this, from the level of wear of which it is required to push off;
  • be extremely careful, excessive pressure on the teeth is fraught with a weakening of their strength and a reduction in the service life of the apparatus;
  • after completing the procedure, the canvas must be blown with compressed air to rid the canvas of chips, and then treated with oil.

See How to sharpen chain teeth on a machine? Features of straightening of various angles depending on the density of the material.

This method is very effective, however, this option also requires serious physical activity and a long time, besides, such equipment is not always at hand, so we will consider another method.

How to sharpen a chainsaw chain angle grinder

According to many owners, an angle grinder is a tool that absolutely should not be used for sharpening teeth. However, this can rightfully be called a delusion.

It is only important to carefully read the list of requirements for this work, since it will be problematic for an unprepared person to cope with such a device, and the risk of spoiling the attachment remains.

Sharpening instruction for angle grinder:

  • We install a disc designed for metal products with a cross section of 2.5 mm (it is recommended to purchase a version with rounded edges);
  • there are no clear parameters of the chain fixing angle, so you can fix the canvas by eye.

Attention! The author of the article does not recommend using this sharpening method, since it is very dangerous! And requires certain skills to work with the tool.

How to sharpen a chain angle grinder correctly.

Chainsaw chain sharpening with a file

File processing of teeth is not particularly difficult, it is much more important to choose the right tool with the right diameter.

In this case, the main factor that determines the order of the entire event is the functional features of the chain web itself.

Most popular chain sizes and tools suitable for this:

  • blade thickness 1.3 mm is processed with a file with a section of 4 mm;
  • thickness 1.6 mm. editable with a file with a diameter of 5.2 mm;
  • Depth gauge machining with a flat file.

Use a clamp to securely fix the tire in the desired position.

Another useful tool is a mold. This element is equipped with hinges with which the device can be easily moved along the saw blade.

The pattern must first be fixed at the required angle, and then the whole process of work will become easier and more convenient, in addition, the risk of potential error will disappear.

Technical Tips- How To use a Chain Rivet Tool and a Chain Breaker Tool

Correct positioning of the tool for manual cutting

It is worth considering the fact that, in addition to the cutting teeth, there is a limiter on the blade, designed to ensure tight entry of the sharp parts of the saw into the wood.

This method is one of the most accessible, but the process is laborious, and requires a certain perseverance from the performer.

How to sharpen the canvas with your own hands, popular video

How to sharpen a chainsaw chain with your own hands: 4 ways

  • Signs of chain cutting edge wear
  • How often to sharpen the chain
  • Chainsaw chain sharpening with a file
  • How to sharpen a chainsaw chain with a hand machine?
  • Principles of sharpening chainsaw chains on an automatic machine
  • How to sharpen a chainsaw chain angle grinder
  • Measures to prevent tooth wear

Any appliances used in everyday life, be it home appliances or garden equipment, require constant and competent maintenance.

One of the most important mechanisms in the household is a chainsaw. Regular maintenance of all mechanisms allows you to save time on work and achieve the highest quality result.

When carrying out maintenance, it is worth paying special attention to the correct sharpening of the chain.

How often to sharpen the chain

As for the frequency of editing, no specific dates can be named, the main criteria here are the frequency of operation of the device and its functional characteristics.

The tool for sharpening teeth can be different, due to the variety of models. Also, the devices differ from each other in operating technologies that provide for a different procedure.

The main tools used to process a gasoline saw blade:

  • A file that is suitable in diameter (its shape can be round or flat, combined samples are also acceptable);
  • Manual type machine;
  • Automatic machine, powered by electricity;
  • Standard angle grinder.

Each device is suitable for such a procedure in its own way, so you should study in more detail the features of working with each of them.

Principles of sharpening chainsaw chains on an automatic machine

Automatic machine, significantly speeds up and facilitates the work process.

This equipment can often be found in large industrial enterprises where woodworking is carried out on a large scale. But today such machines are often used at home.

Externally, the mechanism is a structure where the main part is a whetstone. The cutting blade is placed inside the box and fixed to ensure contact with the stone surface.

After that, the saw should be turned on, and make sure that the processing of the teeth on the sharpening mechanism goes in the right direction.

The main advantage of this method of editing is the speed and ease of work, while it is absolutely not necessary to have any special skills.

Perhaps the only negative side of this method is the fragility of the sharpness of the teeth. Machine straightening is much more accurate.

Tools that you need to shorten

You can properly shorten the chainsaw chain with your own hands using special tools.

Rivet setting machine

After disassembling and removing the chain element, it is necessary to reconnect the working links. A riveting machine is used for this purpose. The assembly process takes place using a special work roller, which is driven by an electric motor.

The rivet is clamped between the stationary anvil and the work roll. The operator independently sets the pressure of the work roll using the adjusting screw. During the rotation of the roller, the edge of the rivet is gradually crushed, which makes it impossible to disconnect the links from each other.

Reference: using machines to shorten the chainsaw chain allows you to bring the build quality as close as possible to the factory sample. However, these devices are quite expensive, and their purchase for home use is unprofitable. In addition, it is not always possible to use specialized devices right at the workplace. In this regard, it is possible to shorten with improvised tools.

Reasons for chain stretching

The chain of a chainsaw, regardless of the manufacturer, can stretch for several reasons:

  • Incorrect operation of the oil pump. Insufficient oil supply leads to overheating of the chain and its rapid stretching.
  • Natural wear and tear. Occurs as a result of prolonged use of the tool.
  • Use of poor quality lubricant.
  • Violation of the rules for operating a chainsaw.

Important: If any irregularities in the operation of the oil pump are detected, it is necessary to eliminate the malfunctions, ensure the normal lubrication of the saw blade. Failure to do so may result in drive sprocket failure. You should also pay attention to the quality of the oil. The presence of various kinds of abrasive microparticles in the oil is not allowed.

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How to shorten a chainsaw chain with your own hands. procedure

Often during the operation of the chainsaw, the saw chain stretches, which makes it impossible to further use the tool. Today, there are specialized workshops that provide services for shortening chainsaw chains, but it is possible to shorten the chainsaw chain with your own hands at home or right at the workplace.

Rivet Removing Machine

For disassembly, a specialized machine is used. a punch. The machine is designed as a small mechanical press. In its lower part, a removable anvil is installed, which has grooves of different sizes. The working rod of the device also has nozzles of different diameters. This makes it possible to use the machine for chains from different manufacturers. The rivet is removed by squeezing it out of the seat.

Caution: the diameter of the removable stem tip must not exceed the diameter of the hole in the side plates.

Rivet removal methods without the use of specialized devices

There are several ways to remove rivets without using specialized tools:

  • Grind off the protrusions on the emery. When using this method, it is necessary to control the degree of pressure on the rivet in order to avoid damage to the working parts.
  • Cut with the cut-off wheel of an angle grinder. It should be borne in mind that in this case the metal heats up, which will affect its properties.
  • Cut the heads with a file or file. With this method, the risk of link damage is minimized.
  • Chop down using a chisel. Before starting work, you will need to securely fasten the chain in a vice.

After the outer protrusions are completely cut off, you will need to knock the rivet out of the seat. To do this, you need to select a punch, the diameter of which will correspond to the diameter of the hole. The punch must be put on the rivet and knocked out with a sharp blow of a hammer. After completing these steps, the chain will be disconnected.

Caution: To avoid damage to the links, they must be securely fastened. In addition, the punch should be installed strictly perpendicular to the rivet cut.

How to rivet a chainsaw chain

To assemble the chain, you will need to install a repair link on it. It must be borne in mind that its dimensions must strictly correspond to the dimensions of the working links. Installing a spare part with a different pitch or profile can damage the drive sprocket, driven sprocket and saw blade of the chainsaw.

The repair link is sold with rivets that you just need to fasten. To do this, you need to lay the chainsaw chain on an anvil. After that, place the punch on the new rivet and flatten the head with a sharp blow with a hammer. It is necessary to rivet until the resulting thickening covers the hole in the outer plate.

When flattening, control the degree of clamping of the side plates. After assembly, the installed link should move freely along the axis. Installing a chain with a jammed link on a chainsaw is not allowed. Failure to follow this rule can lead to more serious damage to the device.

Some people use electric arc welding machines for assembly. In this case, the edges of the rivet are welded to the outer link plates. The use of electric welding involves heating the metal to a high temperature. As a result of overheating, the properties of the metal change, it becomes less wear-resistant.

Recommendation: after assembling and installing the part on the chainsaw, you need to check its performance with a minimum load. Only in case of normal operation can the load be increased.

From the information described above, it follows that chain stretching on a chainsaw is a fairly common phenomenon. It is quite possible to shorten the chain at home, you just have to enlist the traditional tools that almost every owner has in stock.

Signs of decreased cutting ability and its causes

Any chainsaw chain loses its cutting ability over time, but premature dullness of the teeth can be caused by:

  • excessive use of the tool,
  • accidental collision of the chain with the ground,
  • knotty of the sawn wood.
rivet, chainsaw, chain, hands

It is not difficult to notice that the chain for a chainsaw needs sharpening according to the following criteria:

  • difficult movement (a well-sharpened saw easily plunges into the material being cut),
  • perceptible vibration,
  • reduction in chip size.

It is important to understand why timely sharpening of chainsaw chains is important. The less the teeth are dull, the less metal will have to be removed when their sharpness is restored. This reduces labor intensity and allows you to maintain the geometry of the cutting parts.

Chainsaw chain: sharpening to restore performance

Machine tools

Deciding how to sharpen a chainsaw chain with your own hands is much more difficult if the teeth are severely deformed during operation. The use of a conventional tool in this case will be ineffective. The machines allow you to set the required parameters when setting up. This ensures that all teeth are sharpened the same way. Such equipment can be manual or electrical. In the first case, the machine costs less, does not have high productivity, but is suitable for domestic use. Electric sharpening machines are more commonly used in workshops, service centers and manufacturing. The operating speed of such equipment is much higher, but it is expensive and will not pay off if you buy it for personal needs.

Sharpening tools

Sharpening kits

Sharpening of the chain is performed with high quality when the height and angles of the cutting edges of all teeth are identical. It is very difficult to achieve this effect using ordinary tools and your own eye. If the purchase of an expensive machine is not included in the plans, you can choose a special set, which includes:

  • Improved round file with holder. The latter is placed on the tooth of the chain, focusing on the guides of the mowing line. The working position of the file is under the cutting surface. The use of a holder makes it much easier to select the correct tool position.
  • Flat file for stops.
  • A template with which chainsaw chains are sharpened better and more accurately. It is used for checking and correcting parameters.
  • Hook used to remove sawdust from the chainsaw chain.

To understand how to use such a set correctly, carefully study the package contents. It can include several chain holders with different pitches. When working with the template, select the hole to accommodate the file. Usually there are two of them. one for sharpening for hard wood, the second for sharpening for sawing soft material. The holes are marked accordingly.

Link device and sharpening angles

Starting to learn how to sharpen a chainsaw chain with your own hands, pay attention to the design of the links.

When sharpening, the angles of the cutting planes are important, which largely determine the efficiency and convenience of the tools.

  • The rake angle is formed by the edge of the end blade of the tooth with the surface along which the link moves. Range of values ​​of rake angles of various chains 60-85 °.
  • The clearance angle of the upper blade is determined by the inclination of this surface backward from the sliding plane. Possible values ​​- 50-60 °.
  • The sharpening angle is the angle between the cutting edge and the guide. If the tool is used for ripping, the sharpening angle is 10 °. In other cases, sharpening is performed at 25-35 °, and lower values ​​of this range increase the smoothness of the stroke when cutting hardwood or frozen wood.

In addition to the cutting tooth, the link of the saw chain contains a stop tooth, the height of which relative to the cutting edge determines the immersion depth. Since when sharpening a cutting tooth, its geometric parameters change, the height of the limiter needs to be corrected (grinded) by about 5-6 chain sharpenings.


At home, sharpening the chain can be done with a file. Due to the rounded shape of the teeth, a round file is chosen for the cutting edges. The parameters of the tool are selected so that in the working position the file protrudes above the tooth by a fifth of its diameter. The limiter is adjusted with a flat file.