How To Run A Chainsaw Correctly
When everything is ready to start, you can try starting the engine:
- The ignition switch is moved to the working position.
- If there is a primer on the carburetor, press the button until the fuel mixture enters there.
- Place the saw on a level surface so that the chain does not touch the ground.
- Press the saw down with the left hand on the handle.
- With the right foot, step on the inside of the protective shield of the operating handle.
- Close the air damper completely.
- Smoothly pull the starter handle up until the play in the ratchet mechanism is selected, and then jerk it sharply, turning the engine crankshaft.
- After signs of ignition (pops in the cylinder) appear, open the air damper and try to start the saw.
Starting your chainsaw for the first time may take some time to start with the air damper closed, especially in cold weather.
Engine break-in is the main process of preparing a gasoline tool for constant load.
After running-in, it may be necessary to readjust the carburetor. In the absence of experience, this work must be left to the service center, since an incorrectly adjusted carburetor can lead to a quick engine failure.
The main rules for running a saw headset and a chainsaw engine
A newly purchased tool, like the one that has been repaired, differs in that individual parts have roughness, manufacturing tolerances. In the course of running-in, increased wear of some areas occurs, and then most of the inconsistencies are smoothed out, and the wear operation is suspended. This process of controlled wear is called tool break-in.
A non-rolled tool, operating at maximum load, has increased and uncontrolled wear, which leads to a reduced service life. Timely and correctly performed running-in of the chainsaw contributes to the rapid acquisition of the declared technical characteristics by the tool.
Do I need to run in and why
The chainsaw is run in for the reason that new or replaced parts require an exact fit to each other. It is not possible to produce all the components with the required high precision. It takes some time to burn in the surface roughness of cylinders, piston rings, friction units.
During the running-in period, stabilization and alignment of the necessary clearances, backlash in pairs of engagement and friction occurs.
How to properly run a chainsaw
Correct running-in of the chainsaw is the key to further trouble-free operation. It is important to strictly follow the instructions of the instrument manufacturer. There are advice of this type that you need to run in a new chainsaw at idle until the tank is full. It is not right. Idling is harmful to the tool because:
- Not enough lubricant is supplied to moving parts;
- Operation without optimal load causes increased wear of friction pairs.
It is better to use a gentle mode of operation, which combines several tens of seconds of idle speed and sawing thin logs (10-15 cm) from soft wood. In this mode, the running-in occurs most efficiently.
The engine acquires the declared technical characteristics after running out of several fuel tanks. During this time, do not overload and overheat the tool.
Preparing for the first launch
- Properly prepared fuel mixture;
- The presence of oil in the saw chain lubrication system;
- Serviceability of the air filter;
- Correct chain tension;
- Correct operation of the emergency chain brake.
Some gasoline tool manufacturers require a different ratio of oil to gasoline in the fuel mixture. If this is not directly stated in the instructions, then the mixture must be prepared as for permanent operation, using high-octane gasoline (no worse than 92 and 95 brands) and special oil for two-stroke high-speed engines.
The parts of the saw chain teeth that move in the grooves on the guide bar should be lubricated to reduce friction and wear on the saw attachment. Use special chain oil.
It is imperative to lubricate the driven guide bar sprocket with liquid oil through the technological holes at the end of the bar.
It is important to correctly tension the chain. An overly tensioned chain puts a lot of stress on the engine and friction mechanism and is subject to wear. The amount of chain tension is checked by pulling the chain away from the bar. The chain guide teeth must not protrude completely from the bar grooves.
How to properly run a new chainsaw?
Enough has been said about what a chainsaw is for and what requirements a modern gasoline tool must meet. But besides, in order to choose one modification out of a thousand that would best meet consumer needs and just like to use it, it is important to understand what operating conditions are required for this particular device so that it justifies the investment and lasts as long as possible.
In addition to caring for the body, oil pump and cutting set, a very important point concerns the running-in of a new chainsaw. A manipulation that must necessarily take place before the start of the fruitful operation of this device. And what it is for and how it is done correctly, we will discuss in this article.
Why run in chainsaws?
Before starting the initial processing of a gasoline saw, you should pay attention to the following points:
- The operating instructions, which need to be studied in detail, because it is in it that all the requirements for starting work are usually prescribed;
- Get oil that matches this particular saw and gasoline with a high octane number;
- Purchase a new suitable chain, which should be supplied after the bluntness of the break-in chain, with which all new saws are equipped;
- Be patient, because these efforts will be 100% justified.
Chainsaw break-in. We observe the correct sequence
When the technical details contained in the user manual are already sufficiently studied and understood, you can proceed to this process directly. It is important to know that simply assembling the saw without the saw mechanism and trying to start it will not give sense. The tool should, from the first seconds in your hands, feel the load that only the cutting chain can give. In this case, it is possible not only to “develop” the motor, but in general to get used to the arrangement of the tool handles, its ergonomics, which, although created for one thing. For comfort, but differs from different manufacturers.
Let’s consider the whole upcoming process step by step:
- We prepare a combustible mixture, in which, as you guessed it, there will be not only gasoline, but also oil (usually 2-stroke, like engines). Regarding the latter, it is important to understand that the best advisor who can help you choose it correctly is the instruction to the saw itself, which indicates not only the brand, but also the proportions of the mixture itself, which are strictly prohibited.
- Fill the grease tank with chain oil. If the oil indication is not possible, and the running-in is not of a new one, but of a tool restored after repair, you can check yourself whether the device is filled with grease. To do this, bring a blank sheet of paper to the tire and start. If there is oil, there is always a greasy residue. If you skip this point, it may turn out that when the engine goes to maximum speed, the tire and the chain will immediately fail, because frictional force will be an instant fatal factor.
- Starting a “cold start”, it is worth detailing the information from the instructions, in which, usually, this is also covered.
- Despite the importance of the inertial brake, it is still recommended to turn it off when running in, then the chain and tire will be able to sag and stretch smoothly. Otherwise, plastic parts may overheat and begin not only to melt, but also create a fire hazard.
One of the most important rules, which is just as worth it, as they say, wind up on a mustache is the time factor. For this case, it should not be less than 4 hours.
We hope that after this there will not be even a hint of the question of whether it is necessary to run in the chainsaw, because everything is already obvious. Care and respect is the minimum gratitude that everyone is able to give to his petrol assistant for his service.
Launching a new chainsaw
The first start of a new or repaired saw should be approached with the utmost responsibility, while observing the clear steps of this step-by-step instruction. First of all, you need to prepare the fuel. For chainsaws, namely for their two-stroke internal combustion engine, a special mixture is prepared, consisting of gasoline and oil. The octane number of the fuel should not exceed 90, in exceptional cases this value can be increased. This recommendation is described in the instructions for a particular saw model. At the same time, the use of gasoline that has been stored for more than 2 months is prohibited, since during long-term storage, natural causes of gum formation may begin, which will inevitably lead to contamination of the combustion chamber with carbon deposits typical for this. The proportion is also regulated by the manufacturer and averages about 1:40 or 1:50. This means that about 0.20–0.30 grams of oil should be added to 1 liter of gasoline. Having prepared the fuel in this way, we fill the tank.
The engine start itself is performed as follows.
- Set the chain brake to a stopping (inoperative) state. This is done by pulling the brake lever.
- Close the air damper.
- Switch on ignition.
- If the chainsaw has a decompression valve, then it must be pressed to facilitate starting.
- After fixing the saw, take the starter handle with your free hand and pull it up until it engages with the drum mechanism, and only then a sharp confident jerk of the starter is made. This procedure several times until the first flash occurs in the combustion chamber, and the saw starts up and stalls for a second or two. Only after that the damper is put in its original open position, and a restart is made, which should be crowned with success.
- When the engine has started, the handle or the button for increasing the speed (throttle) is pressed to full throttle and released for stable idling.
How to run a chainsaw
A hand-held chainsaw can be a great help for woodworking. At the same time, not many people know that the first hours of operation of the unit require the fulfillment of certain rules for running in. Chainsaw running in is a process necessary for both a new and a tool after a major overhaul. Beginners who have never had experience with a chainsaw need to approach this process with all responsibility. It should be noted that even if an incompetent seller claims an optional running-in procedure for the saw, it is still recommended that you familiarize yourself with the instructions attached to it and this article before the first start.
Why is running-in necessary
It is necessary to run the chainsaw correctly in order to ensure the durability and trouble-free operation of its elements. The fact is that the main driving unit of chainsaws is a two-stroke gasoline internal combustion engine. All its elements and components are installed by the manufacturer without lapping to each other. Since even the most accurate and important part has its own error tolerance, it is the running-in that will qualitatively and reliably perform the most accurate fit of all rubbing mechanisms and their parts.
One of the most important aspects of this procedure is the choice of oil. It is this lubricant that forms the necessary film, which is a guarantee of long-term trouble-free operation. The oil must be selected in accordance with the operating instructions, which most often recommend products designed specifically for two-stroke gasoline engines. Some of the well-proven oils for this technique are:
- NANOPROTEC 2T SUPER;
- LIQUI MOLY;
These products contain specially developed additives in their arsenal, thanks to which the chainsaw engine starts easier and is better lubricated at any time of the year. After all, it is known that mineral lubricants at low temperatures tend to turn into a very thick consistency, similar to jelly. The main thing is that it is the original oil, so every owner of a chainsaw should beware of fakes. It is better to fill in synthetic or, in extreme cases, semi-synthetic oil marked “2T”. If the instruction manual for a particular rare model contains recommendations for the use of a particular brand of oil, then you should listen to it.
Features of running in a chainsaw engine and its elements
It is necessary to run in a chainsaw for a total of at least three to four hours. This means to start, and let it run at idle, with a gas cycle every thirty to forty seconds. Engines of some manufacturers, such as Stihl, Husqvarna, Partner, have one feature: they are not designed to operate in idle mode for a long time. Therefore, after all the preparatory work, the first start and several gas passes, they need to be allowed to run in idle mode for 3 to 5 minutes. Then you should start cutting trees and branches, the diameter of which does not exceed 10 cm. This procedure is recommended to be carried out with the following interval: 1-2 seconds of operation only at medium speed and 15-20 seconds at minimum speed without load.
Domestic chainsaws, such as the Ural and Druzhba, developed back in the Soviet era, require 3-4 full tanks to be used up at idle speed to reach full capacity and run in. Only then can you cut with partial load up to about 5–7 full tanks. Only after such a rather thorough and costly procedure is it possible for them to reach maximum power.
To prepare the chain for the first start and run-in, you need to dip it completely in oil for a couple of hours. Next, install on the unit and tighten in such a way that the chain turns by hand, but does not hang down. Then the first start is made, and after 3-5 minutes of operation, the tension is checked.
If you properly run a new chainsaw, then it will serve its owner for a long time without any problems and emergency downtime.
We run in the chainsaw engine after its repair
After the overhaul of the chainsaw motor, it is required to grind the tool parts in a similar way. The principle of lapping parts is the same as for a new motor. This means that the running-in process involves performing the manipulations described below:
- For professional or semi-professional tools it is necessary to unscrew the screw “H” by ¼ turn, and for household devices it is necessary to increase the oil level in the fuel.
- Let the motor rest as often as possible on XX.
- After working out the product for more than 4 hours of operation, it is required to return the speed indicators to their previous state, and for household chainsaws, dilute the fuel mixture, depending on the manufacturer’s recommendations.
Chainsaw break-in: how important it is to break-in
After purchasing a new chainsaw, experts recommend running it in. Running a chainsaw is not just a whim of the seller who sells it to you, but an important technical necessity. If the chainsaw does not run in, then the consequences of using it can be fatal to the engine. What is this process, we will find out in more detail.
Why do you need to run in a tool
Running in a new chainsaw is the process of grinding in parts, whereby the necessary gaps are formed between elements such as the cylinder and piston rings. In the process of grinding in parts, an increase in compression is observed, which, as a result, has a positive effect on the power of the unit.
When the piston rings are lapped, heat energy is exchanged from the piston during the combustion of the fuel mixture to the cylinder walls. This prevents the piston from melting, so it is clear that the grinding process plays a very important role in gasoline engines.
The opinions of specialists about the correctness of the running-in differ, since some believe that the procedure should be carried out exclusively at idle, while others recommend combining the idle with the working one. How to properly run the chainsaw, find out in more detail.
Stages of the run-in procedure
A new chainsaw should begin to run in with enrichment of the air-fuel mixture, which is carried out by adjusting the carburetor. This requirement is suitable for professional and semi-professional products. For this, the tools are equipped with two screws: H and L. To enrich the fuel mixture with lubricant, adjust the screw “H”, thereby lowering the speed to 600-700 rpm.
To determine the number of revolutions, a tachometer is required, which few people have. In order not to use the tachometer, turn the screw “H” ¼ to the side to enrich the fuel mixture. In this case, a change in the sound of the engine will be felt, as well as the appearance of more smoke from the exhaust system. When the screw is unscrewed, the mixture is enriched with fuel, and when screwed, on the contrary, it is depleted.
Chainsaws for household use are not equipped with this type of adjusting screws, so this option of running-in is not acceptable for such units. Household chainsaws often have slot-type adjusting screws for keys, which are available only in repair shops. If such a key is not available, then the tool can be adjusted by reducing the ratio of the mixture of gasoline to oil. You also need to remember that the engine should be allowed to rest as often as possible in order to cool it.
Engine break-in of imported units differs significantly from the process for domestic units. Popular chainsaw models such as the Stihl and Husqvarna are not designed to last long in XX mode. To load the motor, it is required to let the tool run at idle speed for 3-5 minutes, and then start sawing wood, reducing the speed, as described above. In this case, you need to cut with a low load, and take breaks every 1.5-2 minutes.
Running-in on XX imported chainsaws is unacceptable, as this will lead to the following consequences:
- The fuel assembly is sent into the cylinder in a small amount, so it is often enough only to maintain the rotation of the connecting rod mechanism.
- An insufficient amount of lubricant when working at XX leads to overheating of the motor, as well as increased wear of parts.
Lapping the components of a domestic-made chainsaw motor provides for the production of 3 full tanks of fuel mixture with regular re-gasification.
The running-in of the chain and the bar of the chainsaw is formed in ensuring their normal lubrication, as well as adjusting the tension. The tool chain should be soaked in a special lubricant for several hours. After that, the cutting element should be installed on the chainsaw bar, pulling it so that the chain can be turned by hand. After that, you need to start the tool, and then drive the chain to XX for 3-5 minutes. After that, the chain is pulled up, and we proceed to sawing wood.
Features of rolling a Chinese chainsaw
Chainsaws of Chinese origin are powered by two-stroke air-cooled internal combustion engines. This means that the running-in of Chinese devices is the same as for chainsaws assembled in Europe or Russia. over, most of the models of tools under the German brand Stihl are assembled in China.
Chinese chainsaws in the carburetor device have adjusting screws, therefore, when running in, you should limit the number of revolutions by enriching the fuel mixture.
Summing up, it should be noted that after running the chainsaw motor, most craftsmen do not use tachometers, but simply return the screw “H” to the opposite position. If the seller of the tool assures you how the procedures for lapping parts are correctly performed, then now you can draw a conclusion for yourself about his competence in this matter. Most tool manufacturers indicate in the instructions the features of running in, which should also be followed.
How to run a chainsaw correctly. The main threats
What, in fact, are the problems of many councils. Let’s figure it out in order.
|P / p No.||Meeting council||Arguments for”||Arguments against”|
|1||The chainsaw must be run in at idle speed.||Lowest idle.||The most harmful advice I come across. A great way to kill a cylinder / piston group. Idling, even in cars, is allowed only for a short time: in this mode, the fuel burns out in a suboptimal proportion, the ability to lubricate surfaces sharply worsens, heat dissipation deteriorates sharply, carbon deposits appear, and seizures occur during long-term operation.|
|2||For the chainsaw, you must prepare a special mixture of oil and gasoline. In a special proportion (some sites write. oil, some. gasoline).||Arguments “For” are offered by both. What exactly to stop at is up to the one who listens to the advice of the “experts”.||Deviation from the instructions of the instructions developed by the manufacturer entails inevitable problems either from oil starvation or from an excess of lubricant. In either case, nothing good will come of it.|
|3||It is necessary to carefully study the instructions, prepare a mixture, pour oil into a container for lubricating the chain and work carefully.||“For”. Because the manufacturer recommends it.||There are no arguments against. But why do many sites chew this banality for a dozen paragraphs? To make the article voluminous?|
|4||Using the adjusting screw “H”, you need to lower the minimum speed of the chainsaw and make the mixture richer.||Low rpm improves surface lubricity. This is recommended by the “leading saw manufacturers”.||It’s a lie. No manufacturer will recommend pouring oil into their saw, thereby trying to shift the imperfection of their own production onto the shoulders of the consumer.|
There are other options for advice. Don’t list everything.
Running in tires and chains
The heading is placed in the text only because many are looking for that too. For those who came to the site for this request, we inform you: there is no need to lapping the bar and chain. Simply because it is impossible: there is no stable contact. The main guarantee of long-term stress-free operation is sufficient chain lubrication. It is achieved by adjusting with a special screw on those saws on which it is provided.
Why run-in is needed
Initially, the idea underlying the need for this process seems logical and correct: it is needed so that the surfaces of parts moving relative to each other rub against each other. As a result:
- Power increases;
- Improved lubrication capabilities of parts;
- Reduced wear;
- Reduced noise;
- Reduced heating and, as a result, the risk of loss of strength properties of the surface and geometry of the structure.
Indeed, if you take an excursion to a typical machine-building enterprise, you can see that the technological processes for manufacturing, say, pistons and cylinders, are not so perfect. There are always rough edges that just need to be rubbed in. But the trouble is that at this moment there are a lot of advisers who begin to advise God knows what.
Chainsaw break-in. Everyone gets it wrong!
- Why run-in is needed
- How to run a chainsaw correctly. The main threats
- How right?
- How is this possible?
- Running in Chinese chainsaws
- Running in tires and chains
- Exception to the rule
- Repairman vidos to dispel doubts
After reading on the Internet tips on how to properly run a chainsaw, many begin to spoil their device, significantly reducing its service life.
Fortunately for the owners, and especially for those who give harmful advice, damage caused by improper running is not immediately noticeable, since it is very difficult to spoil a new device at once. Therefore, in appearance everything is fine, and breakdowns and repairs will happen later, everything will be blamed on marriage, bad gasoline or manufacturer defects. Do not repeat other people’s mistakes! However, about everything in order.
Running in Chinese chainsaws
Many users will argue. Well, it’s good when it comes to brands: Stihl, Echo, etc. Can afford to have quality manufacturing processes. And what about cheap Chinese? The answer is yes, their surface cleanliness may not be top notch. Although it should be borne in mind that the same Calms are also produced in China, which does not make them worse. But often normal modes of operation without increased torques (without the tire wedging in the barrel, which should be avoided at any other time) provide more benefits than “enriching the fuel mixture” or, God forbid, idling.
How is this possible?
If the manufacturer “forgot” to indicate in the instructions information about the initial running-in, then the “fault” may be several considerations:
- He has a fairly good technological base, which allows high-quality manufacturing of the surfaces of cylinders and liners.
- The degree of hardness and the ability to withstand wear on the surfaces of moving parts is such that no amount of “running-in” in domestic conditions by handicraft methods can change anything. But adding soot to the exhaust system is quite.
- The concept of “selective assembly” will soon exist soon. When the tolerances of parts are matched to each other in such a way as to provide the highest accuracy class of fit, even using not infinitely accurate and expensive equipment. Friction surfaces in an internal combustion engine are the most critical component. Increased demands are usually made on him, so everything is initially accurate.
In addition, this does not mean at all that such an operation is absent in production. It is known for certain that some manufacturers perform “cold” running-in. Without engine operation, in a special lubricant environment. But this has nothing to do with the consumer.