How To Saw On A Circular Saw

Cutting the board at home

You can cut a board at home with tools and equipment such as:

  • a circular saw;
  • hand saw;
  • angle grinder (“angle grinder”).

Each of these options has its own specifics, which is important to consider before starting work, that is, you need to know how to cut a bar or board with this or that tool so that the cut quality is acceptable.

Circular saw. high productivity and ease of use

The circular saw is the best option for the job. It has excellent performance and allows you to cut a considerable number of blanks in a relatively short time, and with high quality. In addition, such a saw allows you to make a longitudinal cut in the material, but you need to know how to cut the board along exactly.

One of the most important criteria when choosing a circular saw is the maximum cutting depth. There are devices on the market that cut materials with a thickness of 30 to 130 mm. That is, you can choose a machine both for cutting only thin boards, and for sawing bars.

It is also worth paying attention to the cutting tool itself. Discs with a large number of teeth will provide a neat, high-quality cut, while the cutting speed will be low. But discs with a small number of teeth will provide high productivity, but the cut quality will also be worse.

Now about how to cut straight with a circular saw. One of the conditions for high-quality performance of work is reliable fixation of the workpiece. If the material is weakly fixed, then when cutting the board may “go” and the cut will be uneven.

If the circular saw is hand-held, then all work should be performed on a workbench equipped with stops and guides for workpieces. Such a device can be made independently, taking any table as a basis.

It is important to set the cutting depth correctly before starting to cut. Some hand saws have an adjustable side guide that can be used to rip through the material. If there is no such device, then use the same workbench.

convenient in terms of work is the table circular, which is already equipped with everything you need. guides, clamps. Often, such equipment allows you to make and cut blanks at an angle.

During the sawing process, it is important not to exceed the force on the tool, otherwise the cut quality will be low, the increased load on the saw will lead to a rapid dullness of the cutting blade.

Do not forget about safety precautions when using such equipment. Work should be carried out only after checking the serviceability of the saw and the correct fastening of the workpiece. Also, do not neglect protective equipment. masks, glasses.

How to safely cut small blocks on a circular

For joiners, boards and beams are the most common blanks, of which crafts and wood products are subsequently manufactured. And the first thing the material is subjected to is sawing into pieces of the required length. At the same time, you should know how to cut the board evenly, because the incorrect execution of this operation can ruin the workpiece or significantly affect the appearance, and not for the better.

For carpenters, boards and beams are the most common blanks, of which the production of handicrafts and wood products is carried out in the future. And the first thing the material is subjected to is sawing into pieces of the required length. At the same time, you should know how to cut the board evenly, because the incorrect execution of this operation can ruin the workpiece or significantly affect the appearance, and not for the better.

At large enterprises, the problem of how to exactly saw off a bar or board does not arise. Any serious production has high-precision equipment that performs this type of work. At home, you have to make do with what is at hand. At the same time, you still need to be able to use the tool or equipment correctly in order to saw off the board correctly, and the cut turned out to be flawless.

Note that many companies that sell boards and beams provide cutting services. And for this they use all the same specialized equipment, so the purchased material will be cut efficiently. But it is not always possible to use such a service, and it often happens that you only need to saw one workpiece.

Cross cut

Cross cut with bevel stop. In the middle circular saw, the adjustable bevel stop is relatively short, but often has drilled holes, with which you can install an additional, longer hardwood stop on the standard stop. Press the workpiece firmly against the stop with both hands and feed at a relatively low speed. If the part is too short to hold with both hands, secure it, for example, with a clamp on the support.

Cross cut on the movable section. Friction between a large workpiece and the worktable can make crosscutting with the bevel fence very hard work. Easy, smooth cross-cutting capability helps improve accuracy and precision, no matter the size or weight of the workpiece. On the movable section of the working table of the circular machine, there is a stop longer than average, which can be rotated at an angle from 90 ° to 45 ° with respect to the saw blade. Most stops have an adjustable end stop, which is necessary for making several of the same parts.

Beveling. To bevel on a circular machine, set the appropriate stop at the desired angle, then feed the workpiece towards the blade in the usual manner. Make sure that the part is pressed firmly against the stop so that the saw does not push it back.

For a bevel cut, tilt the saw blade.

Hacksaw. simplicity and safety

A hacksaw is a simple tool that is quite suitable for work. And although the cutting speed is low, and considerable physical effort is required, but for home conditions such a saw is the most acceptable option.

It is not difficult to cut correctly with a hacksaw on wood. The main condition for a high-quality cut of the material is to make the correct cut. To simplify the task, you can use a regular flat bar, which is used as a guide.

Often the question arises of how to smoothly saw off a board with a hacksaw at an angle. For this, a special carpentry device is used. a miter box. over, it will help not only to make a cut at the right angle, but also allow any beginner to cut the board exactly.

You can also cut off a bar with a hacksaw. The only problem when working with such a workpiece is that you have to make a lot of effort.

The last option is to use an angle grinder with an installed wheel with teeth for work. But since the “angle grinder” is not intended for cutting wood, this method can be used only as a last resort: attempts to cut the board can result in serious consequences. It’s better to use a hacksaw. it’s time consuming, but safe.

And so, I began to saw slats 3 * 3mm. and when I was cutting another I was distracted by the phone lying next to it on the shelf. In short, I looked at him to find out who was calling and at that moment my fingers were on the saw blade (there is no protective cover on the disk). I didn’t hurt my hand much, only cut two fingers a little. But he took offense at the saw (or maybe at himself for sloppiness).

After that, in order not to risk my fingers, I decided to make a pressure plate in front of the disc, so as not to hold the opening rail on the table with my hand.

circular

I have been using this site for a long time. I mainly shop here, but this is not the main thing. I liked what is being published here more. There are a lot of articles here that are interesting to read. But most of all I like those that describe in detail some useful technologies, improvements, hardware settings, in short, what you can use in your hobby.
So I decided to share my achievement, maybe it will be useful to someone and will be useful.

To be honest, it happened by accident, I just wanted to protect my hands when working with a circular.

My story began after I decided to cut the slats on a homemade circular saw for another glider model. Of course, there is also a purchased circular with a large disc and huge revolutions, but I don’t like to cut small slats on it, it breaks them off, then splits them. Yes, and it is dangerous to cut such a trifle on it, I did not approach it without glasses, it often sends a piece of a broken rail into flight at a fairly high speed, and for some reason my face almost always appears on the flight path. With large slats, type 5mm. by 10mm. of course no problem, but here’s a little thing is a problem. Therefore, from the old Soviet emery, which first went to my father and then to me, inherited from my grandfather, a homemade circular saw was made, with a small disc and not high revolutions, especially for dissolving the rails. A small disc with victorious solders, well sharpened, cuts the slats easily and quite cleanly, it is enough to go through with sandpaper several times and you can glue the rail in place.

Well, I think I’m distracted. And so, I sal, I saw the slats 3 * 3mm. and when I was cutting another I was distracted by the phone lying next to it on the shelf. In short, I looked at him to find out who was calling and at that moment my fingers were on the saw blade (there is no protective cover on the disk). I didn’t hurt my hand much, only cut two fingers a little. But he took offense at the saw (or maybe at himself for sloppiness).

READ  Idle Saws Stihl 180

After that, in order not to risk alts, I decided to make a pressure plate in front of the disc, so as not to hold the opening rail on the table with my hand.

There is no problem to invent and fix it. The saw table itself is made of 5mm thick metal sheet. and an emphasis from 25 corners (in short, from that it was at hand). I just welded a plate onto the stop and drilled it, also without much hesitation, I cut out the stop myself from the same metal, sharpened it a little and fixed it in place, at first I wanted to fix it on the bushing, but did not find a tube that was suitable for the size and just welded two nuts by welding, and picked up spring. I was not worried about beauty at all, the main thing was functionality and safety. In short, it took about half an hour to make and install the pressure plate. I tried to cut it and liked it. And as you know, “appetite comes with eating.” Why not do the same after the disc. Cut, welded, drilled, installed. He dismissed a few more rails. In short, “further. more.” Next, a pressure plate was installed on the table itself, so that it pressed the spreading rail against the guide corner. I tried to saw again. I also wanted that after the disc the already finished rail does not walk from side to side, thereby holding it so that the rising disc teeth do not damage the already sawn rail. I measured the thickness of the cut, it turned out to be 2mm., I picked up a piece of metal with a thickness of 2.3mm. marked out where it should be and installed it. It turned out a kind of stop for the finished rail, and due to the fact that the metal is slightly thicker than the cut of the rail, it does not touch the rising teeth of the disc.

Naturally, I did not take a photo during these experiments. Since I was not going to write where and what not where to spread.

But I was honestly surprised by the result. Before the alteration, I could cut slats of 3 * 3 millimeters on this circular, of course, not everything worked out, there was a lot of scrap. About slats of 2 * 3, or 2 * 2, I’m not talking at all, the marriage is probably 70 percent. After the alteration, you can freely cut slats 1 * 1mm., While from pine. Although before that the slats were less than 3mm thick. I tried to saw only from a Christmas tree, it has thinner layers of annual rings, and it seems to me that it is stronger than pine, although it has an order of magnitude more knots.

That’s how it happens sometimes. I just wanted to make the circular saw safer, but it turned out to be safer and more convenient and much better. After this revision, the slats no longer need to be skinned, and you can dissolve thinner ones than before the alteration.

Here are some photos.

Please do not kick for the appearance, as I already wrote about aesthetics, I was not worried, the main thing was functionality.

This is the first piece of hardware that I installed.

This piece of iron was fixed by the second.

This one screwed on the thirds.

This was the last.

What happened in general

These are slats for comparison, on top are those that the circular produces after alteration, below are those that sawed when he damaged his fingers (before the saw was altered).

This is me thick pine reiki.

And lastly. Prozba is not to blame for taking this idea from someone else. I honestly climbed the Internet (I sat for half the evening), I didn’t find anything like that.

Longitudinal sawing

Installation of the longitudinal stop. The rip fence that runs along the entire worktable from edge to edge is ideal for sawing synthetic wood materials. However, when sawing solid wood (solid wood), such a stop can lead to an accident. Just as a partially cut cut in surface-hardened wood would pinch the blade if it weren’t for the riving knife, such internal stresses can push the cut apart until the workpiece is pressed against the saw blade and jammed or possibly ejected. If the stop has front and rear adjustments, it should be moved so that its rear end protrudes approximately 25 mm beyond the front edge of the part of the saw protruding above the table, providing the necessary space to the right of the blade. Alternatively, attach a block of wood to a stop to provide this clearance. For any installation method, the stop must be parallel to the disc.

Adjust the cutting width to the stop scale, make a test cut on unnecessary material and check for correct setting. If you don’t trust the scale, use a ruler measuring from the stop to one of the saw teeth on the side of the stop. Before switching on, make sure that the stop is securely fastened.

Sawing a wide board. When cutting a wide board, move the workpiece from the rear of the board with one hand (not on the same line as the saw blade), and with the other hand press the board against the table and the fence at the same time. Feed the workpiece evenly. Use the help of an assistant when working with very wide boards, making it clear that it is you who will guide the workpiece and adjust the feed rate.

Sawing narrow boards. When finishing the longitudinal cut of a narrow board, feed the workpiece with a wooden pusher. a rail with a notch at one end and a rounded edge at the other. Use a second pusher to push the parts against the stop. Store pushers close to the machine so that they are always within reach when you need them.

Getting the same parts

Getting the same cut. Of course, it is very tempting to trim the workpiece, pressing it against the rip fence so that the same lengths are obtained to the right of the blade. However, the cut-off part can be caught between the stop and the saw blade and be thrown towards the master. The correct way is to either not bring the longitudinal stop to the disc a little, or to fix the separating block on the stop, which would play the role of an end stop for the workpiece, leaving a gap to the right of the blade.

Cutting off identical workpieces. On the extension rail of the stop, fix a wooden block that will serve as a stop for setting the same length for each workpiece.

How to work on a circular machine

Many people use circular saws to cut boards and make parts with their own hands. But in the process of work, it is imperative to remember about safety precautions, since if it is not observed, there can be a variety of consequences. A wide selection of circular machines is presented on the website https://king.if.ua/.

The main TB rules include:

  • Use only circular saws that are free from defects. The result will be of better quality, and health risks are at a minimum.
  • Stops and fences, guides recommended by the manufacturer, should be used without fail.
  • Before changing the saw, you must turn off the machine from the mains.
  • At the moment of a complete stop of the disk, you do not need to engage in configuration and other actions.
  • The workpieces should be checked for foreign objects (nails, knots, etc.).
  • Before turning on the equipment, it is worth removing all unnecessary items from the work surface that will not take part in the work.
  • The workpiece must be fed against the cutting edges.
  • When moving the workpiece along the working surface, it must be held firmly.
  • It is recommended to use specially designed pushers for moving workpieces. This is because fingers can accidentally get caught in the saw.
  • In no case should you reach over the switched on saw to perform any action.
  • In that case. When the machine does not have a special brake, it must be allowed to stop on its own, and not use any objects.
  • The tightness of the fasteners should be checked periodically.

Sawing methods

The workpiece must always move along the longitudinal stop. This is the only way to avoid tool jamming.

It is recommended to use a rip fence for sawing synthetic wood. But it is worth remembering that when sawing natural canvas, it can provoke an accident.

On a circular machine, you can perform various works and procure any parts. The most common sawing methods are:

  • Longitudinal.
  • Transverse.
  • Getting parts of the same size.
  • Making tenons and grooves, as well as seams.
  • Sawing a comb.

When performing any manipulations on a circular machine, it is worth remembering about your own safety and about the possible consequences due to non-compliance with safety regulations. You should be especially careful with the machine at the time of its operation.

Longitudinal sawing

Installation of the longitudinal stop. The rip fence that runs along the entire worktable from edge to edge is ideal for sawing synthetic wood materials. However, when sawing solid wood (solid wood), such a stop can lead to an accident. Just as a partially cut cut in surface-hardened wood would pinch the blade if it weren’t for the riving knife, such internal stresses can push the cut apart until the workpiece is pressed against the saw blade and jammed or possibly ejected. If the stop has front and rear adjustments, it should be moved so that its rear end protrudes approximately 25 mm beyond the front edge of the part of the saw protruding above the table, providing the necessary space to the right of the blade. Alternatively, attach a block of wood to a stop to provide such a gap. For any installation method, the stop must be parallel to the disc.

Adjust the cutting width to the stop scale, make a test cut on unnecessary material and check for correct setting. If you don’t trust the scale, use a ruler measuring from the stop to one of the saw teeth on the side of the stop. Before switching on, make sure that the stop is securely fastened.

READ  Circular From Angle Grinder How It Ends

Sawing a wide board. When cutting a wide board, move the workpiece from the rear of the board with one hand (not on the same line as the saw blade), and with the other hand press the board against the table and the fence at the same time. Feed the workpiece evenly. Use the help of an assistant when working with very wide boards, making it clear that it is you who will guide the workpiece and adjust the feed rate.

Sawing narrow boards. When finishing the longitudinal cut of a narrow board, feed the workpiece with a wooden pusher. a rail with a notch at one end and a rounded edge at the other. Use a second pusher to push the parts against the stop. Store pushers close to the machine so that they are always within reach when you need them.

Circular machine

Stationary circular saws are equipment for daily use. Such professional machines are capable of processing a large amount of wood per day. They are quite heavy. over 10 kilograms and high power up to 2500 watts.

Circular machine

Circular machines are used mainly in production for industrial purposes. The cost of such a device is quite high. Some small models of circular equipment also have the function of stationary use. They are successfully used in home workshops.

Cross cut

Cross cut with bevel stop. In the middle circular saw, the adjustable bevel stop is relatively short, but often has drilled holes, with which you can install an additional, longer hardwood stop on the standard stop. Press the workpiece firmly against the stop with both hands and feed at a relatively low speed. If the part is too short to hold with both hands, secure it, for example, with a clamp on the support.

Cross cut on the movable section. Friction between a large workpiece and the worktable can make crosscutting with the bevel fence very hard work. Easy, smooth cross-cutting capability helps improve accuracy and precision, no matter the size or weight of the workpiece. On the movable section of the working table of the circular machine, there is a stop longer than average, which can be rotated at an angle from 90 ° to 45 ° with respect to the saw blade. Most stops have an adjustable end stop, which is necessary for making several of the same parts.

Beveling. To bevel on a circular machine, set the appropriate stop at the desired angle, then feed the workpiece towards the blade in the usual manner. Make sure that the part is pressed firmly against the stop so that the saw does not push it back.

For a bevel cut, tilt the saw blade.

Getting the same parts

Getting the same cut. Of course, it is very tempting to trim the workpiece, pressing it against the rip fence so that the same lengths are obtained to the right of the blade. However, the cut-off part can be caught between the stop and the saw blade and be thrown towards the master. The correct way is to either not bring the longitudinal stop to the disc a little, or to fix the separating block on the stop, which would play the role of an end stop for the workpiece, leaving a gap to the right of the blade.

Cutting off identical workpieces. On the extension rail of the stop, fix a wooden block that will serve as a stop for setting the same length for each workpiece.

Operation Algorithm

Hand-held and stationary circular saws have a similar working principle. But hardware management has some differences.

Sewing seams, grooves and tenons

Swing washers. A pair of beveled. wobbling. washers make the edge of the blade wobble from side to side and make a wider groove than a regular cut. Another way is to install the slot head. It is necessary to change the standard table insert to another one with a wider saw blade slot.

Fold seam. Two straight rip cuts result in rebates on the workpiece. Make the first cut on the narrower edge of the part, leaving enough material on each side of the blade to provide sufficient support. Reset the rip fence and blade height and make a second cut that will remove any waste wood. Carry out the second cut so that the cut of wood is not on the side of the stop, as the trim caught between the stop and the blade can be forcefully thrown out by the rotation of the blade at the moment of cutting the last fibers.

Sawing a groove. The swing saw allows you to cut a groove in one pass. In the absence of special equipment, first make one cut on each side of the groove, then, resetting the rip fence to the width of the blade, make alternate cuts until you have selected the entire groove between the two cuts.

Cutting the comb. To obtain a center ridge, make two identical folds on the edge of one of the joint parts. Make the first cut on a narrow edge, then turn the workpiece over to cut the second side of the ridge. Remove trimmings from both sides of the comb.

Thorn execution. Some machine tool manufacturers produce clamps for making tenons. Alternatively, you can make a wooden template to hold the workpiece in place during machining. Fix with screws two wooden blocks of the same thickness on a 400×200 mm plywood sheet. Both sticks should be aligned with the long side of the plywood and leave room for the piece to fit between one of them and the edge of the plywood. Use screws only from one end of the bar, farthest from the saw. To prevent the template from wobbling, glue an additional stop.

Lock the blank onto the template and make one pass to cut one face of the tenon. Flip the workpiece to cut the second face.

Then cut off some of the excess wood from each side of the tenon to check that it fits into the socket. If necessary, make corrections in the setting of the stop before working with subsequent workpieces.

To make the shoulders, fix the dividing block on the longitudinal stop so that they are correctly positioned in relation to the blade.

If it is necessary to reduce the width of the tenon, first cut the shoulders, and then remove waste in volumes of one blade thickness per pass.

You can modify the template to make a cut in the bevel.

Straight open tenon connection. This corner joint is used in box-type product designs. Making it by hand is a very laborious process, but on a circular machine using a simple device, you can cut out several such joints in a matter of minutes. Use a wide kerf blade or use rocker washers to select the lugs (grooves between the cleats). Calculate the distance so that you get a whole number of evenly spaced pins on both parts of the joint.

To make a template, attach a long piece of wood to the bevel stop and, set the height of the blade just above the thickness of the workpiece, make a cut in the template.

Cut the hardwood plank so that it fits snugly into the cut. Cut 50-75 mm from the plank and glue this piece of the plank into the cut so that you get a short protruding spike.

Reinstall the template on the bevel stop and place the rest of the plank between the blade and the spike of the template, then fasten the template to the bevel stop and remove the plank.

Place the first part of the joint on the end and rest it against the protruding spike of the template. Fix the workpiece.

Make a cut along the saw, then put the resulting cut on the spike of the template and make the next eyelet with a new cut.

Continue in this order until the entire row of pins has been completed.

The cleats on the second part of the joint must be shifted to match the lugs on the first part. Place the second part on the end, as in the previous operation, but place the rest of the bar between it and the spike of the template.

Then, taking out the bar, make the first cut, then put it on the spike of the template and make the next eyelet, repeating the procedure the required number of times.

Place on the side on the glue and after it dries, trim off the protruding parts of the thorns flush.

A circular saw is a special piece of equipment designed to cut evenly planks or timber. The use of the device requires some knowledge and skills. To understand how to use a circular saw, you should familiarize yourself with its principle of operation and operational capabilities.

Types of jobs

The scope of the circular saw depends on its size and type.

How to make a raised panel (panel) on a circular machine

Hello dear readers and homemade products!

It is far from always possible to make a relief on wooden panels using a milling machine.
In this article, the author of the YouTube channel “J-woodworking 목공 일기” will tell you about a simple way to form a relief on wood panels. For this, only a circular saw will be used.

For example, the master will make panels for doors.
The same technique can be used to make small furniture wooden doors.

Materials. necessary for homemade.
– Wood panel
– Sandpaper.

Without changing the position of the parallel stop, and the height of the saw blade overhang, the same operation is repeated around the entire perimeter of the workpiece.
Please note that the master presses the workpiece against the rip fence with a small block. When moving the workpiece along the disc, the workpiece must be pressed in the area where the wood is sampled by the disc.

If you press the part further than this area, then the workpiece may move, the disc will cling to the material and leave traces.

Further operations should first be carried out on a test piece. Also, a digital device for measuring the height of the disc departure will not interfere.

READ  How to Adjust the Hand Circular to the Table

The rip fence is set at a distance from the edge of the saw blade equal to the length of the workpiece minus the depth of the cut.
The overhang of the saw blade must be set so that it reaches the slot, but not higher.

By placing a thin newspaper under the part, the author cuts off the excess from the narrow sides of the workpiece. The underlay of paper improves glide and protects the front side from marks that can be left by the table surface.

Good mood, good health, and interesting ideas to everyone!

Subscribe to the website’s telegram channel in order not to miss new articles.

Longitudinal sawing

Installation of the longitudinal stop. The rip fence that runs along the entire worktable from edge to edge is ideal for sawing synthetic wood materials. However, when sawing solid wood (solid wood), such a stop can lead to an accident. Just as a partially cut cut in surface-hardened wood would pinch the blade if it weren’t for the riving knife, such internal stresses can push the cut apart until the workpiece is pressed against the saw blade and jammed or possibly ejected. If the stop has front and rear adjustments, it should be moved so that its rear end protrudes approximately 25 mm beyond the front edge of the part of the saw protruding above the table, providing the necessary space to the right of the blade. Alternatively, attach a block of wood to a stop to provide this clearance. For any installation method, the stop must be parallel to the disc.

Adjust the cutting width to the stop scale, make a test cut on unnecessary material and check for correct setting. If you don’t trust the scale, use a ruler measuring from the stop to one of the saw teeth on the side of the stop. Before switching on, make sure that the stop is securely fastened.

Sawing a wide board. When cutting a wide board, move the workpiece from the rear of the board with one hand (not on the same line as the saw blade), and with the other hand press the board against the table and the fence at the same time. Feed the workpiece evenly. Use the help of an assistant when working with very wide boards, making it clear that it is you who will guide the workpiece and adjust the feed rate.

Sawing narrow boards. When finishing the longitudinal cut of a narrow board, feed the workpiece with a wooden pusher. lath with a notch at one end and a rounded edge at the other. Use a second pusher to push the parts against the stop. Store pushers close to the machine so that they are always within reach when you need them.

Getting the same parts

Getting the same cut. Of course, it is very tempting to trim the workpiece, pressing it against the rip fence so that the same lengths are obtained to the right of the blade. However, the cut-off part can be caught between the stop and the saw blade and be thrown towards the master. The correct way is to either not bring the longitudinal stop to the disc a little, or to fix the separating block on the stop, which would play the role of an end stop for the workpiece, leaving a gap to the right of the blade.

Cutting off identical workpieces. On the extension rail of the stop, fix a wooden block that will serve as a stop for setting the same length for each workpiece.

Cross cut

Cross cut with bevel stop. In the middle circular saw, the adjustable bevel stop is relatively short, but often has drilled holes, with which you can install an additional, longer hardwood stop on the standard stop. Press the workpiece firmly against the stop with both hands and feed at a relatively low speed. If the part is too short to hold with both hands, secure it, for example, with a clamp on the support.

Cross cut on the movable section. Friction between a large workpiece and the worktable can make crosscutting with the bevel fence very hard work. Easy, smooth cross-cutting capability helps improve accuracy and precision, no matter the size or weight of the workpiece. On the movable section of the working table of the circular machine, there is a stop longer than average, which can be rotated at an angle from 90 ° to 45 ° with respect to the saw blade. Most stops have an adjustable end stop, which is necessary for making several of the same parts.

Beveling. To bevel on a circular machine, set the appropriate stop at the desired angle, then feed the workpiece towards the blade in the usual manner. Make sure that the part is pressed firmly against the stop so that the saw does not push it back.

For a bevel cut, tilt the saw blade.

Working on a circular machine

Sewing seams, grooves and tenons

Swing washers. A pair of beveled. shaking. The washer causes the edge of the blade to wobble from side to side and make a wider groove than a regular cut. Another way. installation of the head for the grooves. It is necessary to change the standard table insert to another one with a wider saw blade slot.

How To Use A Circular Saw For Beginners— Power Tools Made Easy #3

Fold seam. Two straight rip cuts result in rebates on the workpiece. Make the first cut on the narrower edge of the part, leaving enough material on each side of the blade to provide sufficient support. Reset the rip fence and blade height and make a second cut that will remove any waste wood. Carry out the second cut so that the cut of wood is not on the side of the stop, as the trim caught between the stop and the blade can be forcefully thrown out by the rotation of the blade at the moment of cutting the last fibers.

Sawing a groove. The swing saw allows you to cut a groove in one pass. In the absence of special equipment, first make one cut on each side of the groove, then, resetting the rip fence to the width of the blade, make alternate cuts until you have selected the entire groove between the two cuts.

Cutting the comb. To obtain a center ridge, make two identical folds on the edge of one of the joint parts. Make the first cut on a narrow edge, then turn the workpiece over to cut the second side of the ridge. Remove trimmings from both sides of the comb.

Thorn execution. Some machine tool manufacturers produce clamps for making tenons. Alternatively, you can make a wooden template to hold the workpiece in place during machining. Fix with screws two wooden blocks of the same thickness on a 400×200 mm plywood sheet. Both sticks should be aligned with the long side of the plywood and leave room for the piece to fit between one of them and the edge of the plywood. Use screws only with one. farther from the saw. the end of the bar. To prevent the template from wobbling, glue an additional stop.

Lock the blank onto the template and make one pass to cut one face of the tenon. Flip the workpiece to cut the second face.

Then cut off some of the excess wood from each side of the tenon to check that it fits into the socket. If necessary, make corrections in the setting of the stop before working with subsequent workpieces.

To make the shoulders, fix the dividing block on the longitudinal stop so that they are correctly positioned in relation to the blade.

If it is necessary to reduce the width of the tenon, first cut the shoulders, and then remove waste in volumes of one blade thickness per pass.

You can modify the template to make a cut in the bevel.

Straight open tenon connection. This corner joint is used in box-type product designs. Its manufacture by hand. a very laborious process, but on a circular machine with the help of an uncomplicated device, you can cut out several such joints in a matter of minutes. Use a wide kerf blade or use rocker washers to select the lugs (grooves between the cleats). Calculate the distance so that you get a whole number of evenly spaced pins on both parts of the joint.

To make a template, attach a long piece of wood to the bevel stop and, set the height of the blade just above the thickness of the workpiece, make a cut in the template.

Cut the hardwood plank so that it fits snugly into the cut. Cut 50-75 mm from the plank and glue this piece of the plank into the cut so that you get a short protruding spike.

Reinstall the template on the bevel stop and place the rest of the plank between the blade and the spike of the template, then fasten the template to the bevel stop and remove the plank.

Place the first part of the joint on the end and rest it against the protruding spike of the template. Fix the workpiece.

Make a cut along the saw, then put the resulting cut on the spike of the template and make the next eyelet with a new cut.

Continue in this order until the entire row of pins has been completed.

The cleats on the second part of the joint must be shifted to match the lugs on the first part. Place the second part on the end, as in the previous operation, but place the rest of the bar between it and the spike of the template.

Then, taking out the bar, make the first cut, then put it on the spike of the template and make the next eyelet, repeating the procedure the required number of times.

Place on the side on the glue and after it dries, trim off the protruding parts of the thorns flush.