How to set the tines of a hand saw. How to correctly set the teeth of a hacksaw?

Hacksaw for wood with your own hands

The basic cutting element of any hand saw is a row of teeth cut on the blade to form wedge-shaped cutters. Wood, in the manufacture of all kinds of products made of it, is sawn along, across and at an angle Θ to its fibers, for this reason a distinction is made between transversal, longitudinal and angular sawing and in each case a corresponding type of saw, different from the others by the shape of the teeth, is used.

cross-cutting saws are used in crosscutting sawing if their cutting edges cut wood fibers like with a knife and make a cut. Slit sawing is different from crosscutting in that the saw’s cutting direction is parallel to the wood fibers. Cutting is where the leading edges of the teeth of reciprocating saws plan the wood like knives on planers, and deepen to create a kerf. When sawing wood at an angle Θ to its fibers universal (mixed) saws are used with teeth, which are an intermediate form of teeth of crosswise and longitudinal saws.

Saw sharpening

Sharpening saw teeth is a kind of art that requires a steady hand, a good eye, and attention. To learn this business is not difficult, it is necessary to have desire and to adhere accurately to the following rules:

• The saw-blade should be firmly clamped in a wood fixture, which should also be set up stably on a well-lit work table. Sharpening saw teeth on stools or on your lap does not produce satisfactory results.
• A personal file should be used, followed by deburring the sharpened edges of the teeth with a velvet (fine-cut) or nail file. It is desirable that the file be new, sharp, and with a hooked handle. If in due time there was no such, it is possible to use and second-hand, but necessarily cleaned with a steel brush and rubbed with charcoal, so that the file will not get clogged and will not blunt. When sharpening a tooth file should engage in its metal and remove its layer, depending on the force of the pressure. And if it slides over the tooth without removing metal, the saw’s teeth are overhardened or the file is worn out. If this is the case repeat the sharpening with a new file. If it still slips on the tooth, it is time to get another saw.
• Clamp the file handle with the right hand and hold the end of the file with the left hand and guide the file to the saw teeth. The file operation depending on the type of saw is explained below.
• It is important that the pressure of the file on the file teeth is smooth and even, and only from one side to the other. When the file is returned to its original position it must not touch the teeth.
• one should try to mill metal of minimally equal thickness from tooth flanks, when driving the file one and the same amount of times with equal pressure, which helps to keep angles, pitch and height of the teeth after sharpening.
• Tooth flanks on the file exit side produce burrs that reduce tooth sharpness, and if they are not removed, they chip away as the saw goes on, and the teeth become considerably dull. To deburr the tooth flanks, finish them off with a file with a velvet file and remove the burrs from the flanks with a wet burr stone.
• After sharpening the teeth, their sharpness must be checked. Look at the point of a needle and the edge of a razor blade: they, when sharpened, do not gleam in the light. And if they are blunted, then rounded surfaces appear on the tip of the needle and on the edge of the blade, which reflect the light well and shine. This principle is the basis for checking the quality of sharpening saw teeth. To do this, the saw is placed in front of the eyes and the teeth are viewed along the blade. If their cutting edges and tops do not shine, then saw teeth are sharpened satisfactorily, and if some of the teeth are shiny (they often are), then you should sharpen them with a file with a velvet notch, remove burrs and check light reflection by their edges and tops again.

Teeth of crosscut saws are sharpened using a fine-toothed file with a 60° angle at the top.

For teeth sharpening, the saw blade is clamped in a special device that makes it possible to set it at an angle of 45-50° to the work table plane. Base file is run parallel to the working table at an angle of 60-75° to the saw blade and thus in the first tooth the left edge A1A2B2B1 is sharpened.

Several sharpening steps are needed to sharpen the saw teeth. First, the file runs along the left-hand sides of the odd teeth in the far row, setting your hands to the same motion. Then, the file is passed over the right edges of the same odd teeth, completing the sharpening of the main cutting edges with very sharp tips. After finishing sharpening of odd teeth the saw blade is turned over in the sharpening device and so the even teeth that are in the far row are sharpened. When sharpening the teeth of crosscut saws care must be taken to ensure that each tooth has sharp main cutting edges with a dihedral angle φ = 60-75°, a short cutting edge and a sharp tip.

How to properly sharpen a hacksaw with a file

The tool is held at 60°-75° to the tooth. First the even-numbered cutters are sharpened so as not to change the position of the hand. Then the blade is turned through 180° and the process is repeated for the odd-numbered teeth. This is how saws for making firewood were sharpened from the earliest times. Real craftsmen did it “by eye” with high quality.

The roughing saw can also be sharpened like this. But the tool for carpentry and carpentry work requires more accuracy. Not everyone can afford to buy a machine for sharpening hacksaws. If you have a compact emery board, you can make a homemade frame, which will work no worse than the factory one.

You can sharpen a hacksaw with an angle grinder. The power tool is clamped at an angle to the workbench. The hacksaw is moved by hand along guides so that each tooth is approached in the same plane to the sanding disc. Use a sharpening depth limiter.

The principle is the same as for hand sharpening. First the even numbered teeth are run through, then the blade is reversed and the odd numbered row is machined.

Note! If you need to adjust the height of cutters, the angle grinder attachment is a quick and accurate way to do it. These units are ideal if you regularly sharpen your tool in large wood construction or renovation projects

If the question “how to sharpen the saw” arises once or twice a year. use a simpler device. Various file or file guides are available to hold the file or file at a desired angle

These tools are useful if you regularly blunt work in large wood construction or repair projects. If the question “how to sharpen the saw” arises once or twice a year. use a simpler device. Various file or file guides are available which can be used to hold a file or file at a specific angle.

Such a device is especially useful for sharpening compact blades, when an error of a couple of degrees leads to tool damage. If you want to save even more. you can make a guide yourself.

The blade is fixed at a certain angle, a limiter is set parallel to the workbench for the file or file, and 2-3 passes are made per tooth in turn. Then turn the blade (without changing the angle of the guide), and pass the second side. The advantage of such devices is that they can be used to both set and sharpen teeth.

Again, such devices are suitable for simple hacksaws, with the traditional shape of cutters.

Saw sharpening

Working with a saw requires caution. Sharpening a saw can also result in injury. What can be done to minimize the risk of cuts? You need to make a temporary cover from a rubber tube. The tube is cut to length and used as a cover for the saw teeth. It will be hard to cut with this guard.

Hand saw sharpening. Not an easy task. To sharpen the dust, you need to secure it with two hardwood clamps. Put a strip of cardboard between the clamps and nail the clamps to the bottom. The saw is placed in the left slot, and the construction is squeezed out using a vise. Now it is easier to sharpen the dust. Sharpen each tooth with a triangular saw and the same number of strokes.

Sharpening the saw teeth

Tooth setting is used when you want the saw blade to move freely. The teeth are bent one after the other to the same distance, using the setting. Use it to bend the tooth back about halfway up the blade. Saw guide is a tool to set the saw teeth, it is shaped like a plate with a slot in it.You can also use an adjustable wrench, which also successfully performs setting teeth. To work with soft types of wood, the teeth need to be set more, in the case of hard. less. But this tip is hardly useful for those who work directly in the forest. In these conditions, it is hardly possible the degree of hardness, density and humidity of the wood. In order to choose the right razvodka, you will need to test this device in different conditions, the best option would be three-tenths to five-tenths of a millimeter to one side. The general requirement is to set the teeth no thicker than the thickness of the blade on two sides. It’s necessary to make the setting before the sharpening.

To sharpen a hacksaw for metal or wood with your own hands is necessary:

• Make preparations.
• To determine for what purposes the saw is used.
• Sharpening with parameters that are appropriate to the purpose of the tool.

Sharpening the saw with a file

Preparing

To sharpen your wood hacksaw you need to prepare all the necessary tools. Then remove any possible contaminants to bare metal and assess the ability to resharpen the blade. Based on the inspection, the sharpening method is selected.

Sharpening

Sharpening a metal or wood hacksaw for longitudinal sawing or universal sawing is done in two ways:

• Straight. Remove the layers from the tooth flanks with a file at a 90 degree angle horizontally to the blade. Then reposition the blade in the clamping tool backwards, and sharpen the far teeth in the same way.
• Oblique. Different from the straight method, the sharpening angle is 80. First sharpen the teeth of one row and then the next.

To sharpen the universal saw a rough file or a file with a rhombic cross-section is needed. The choice of method depends on the characteristics of workpiece processing and the preferences of the craftsman.

To sharpen a wood hacksaw at home as follows:

• Find a file with a triangular cross-section and special notches for easier sharpening.
• Fix the blade at a 45-50 angle to the work surface.
• Grind in parallel to the table with a file at an angle of 60 to 75.

To sharpen blunt teeth, first sharpen the odd-numbered cutters, and then sharpen the even-numbered. After the odd ones the blade is turned around in the opposite direction and the even ones are sharpened.

• The cutting tool should be moved evenly with the same force;
• Files with small notches are used for deburring;
• After completing the work it is necessary to check the sharpness of the teeth.

Sharpening a wood hacksaw

Tooth sharpening

Tooth setting is required to avoid the blade getting stuck in the cut. The process consists in bending the teeth relative to the blade in two directions at the same angle and distance. Correct sharpening should result in free gaps that make it easier for the blade to move during cutting.

The standard is considered to be the setting at a distance of no more than 2 mm. Depending on the application, the bend is made as follows:

The selection of bend angle is based on the following principle: a larger angle allows to saw with a wide kerf, and a smaller angle. with more effort, but a smaller kerf width.

Special tools are used for bending. A blade is clamped in a clamp, set on the working surface. Then bend carefully the teeth with a metal strip to a distance so as not to break them.

The setting is carried out step by step as follows:

• Slots are made as marks to determine the thickness of the blade.
• The tooth is locked in the hole and unbent with a die until the marked resting point is reached.
• Do the same procedure with all remaining teeth.

Height alignment

Check the height as follows:

• put a sheet of paper with a single color shade on a flat, smooth surface;
• place the blade over it, press it evenly, so that the end surface of the blade is parallel;
• Remove the saw, then look at the evenness of the pressure marks;
• If there are protruding teeth, files are carefully filed down to the general level.

Uneven tooth spacing is required to make even cuts in the material. Uneven loading of teeth causes increased tooth wear. That’s why it is necessary to level them after setting.

A few simple tricks for sharpening and deburring the teeth of hand saws.

What is a sabre saw and how to choose it?

Now let’s understand how to choose an electric wood saw, in the language of professionals such a tool is called a sabre saw. Slightly different selection criteria compared to handheld tools. Thus, besides reciprocating motion, saber saw has also pendulum motion.

For pruning trees with a saber saw, the tool has a pendulum mode of operation

Pendulum-like oscillation of the blade makes work much more efficient, for example, when trimming trees or performing other roughing work. And the standard mode is good for cutting sheets of different density.

In this case the question what is the best wood hacksaw would not be quite correct, because the efficiency of sabre saws depends on the right choice of blade. There are blades that are designed to work on wood, metal, stone, drywall, etc.д.

Each replaceable blade of the sabre saw is designed to work with a certain material

But the choice of a saber saw does not end just with the purchase of a quality blade for the appropriate material, there is a whole range of other subtleties:

• I, as well as the majority of masters in this field, think that purchase of electric hacksaws with power under 600 W is just a wasted money. With it you can cut twigs up to 20 mm in diameter and no more. From 600W, up to 1KW is suitable for diversified cottage works, and the tool with a capacity of 1.2KW already refers to the semi-professional and they can effectively cut any materials;
• It is desirable to choose a model where a special key is not needed to change the blade;
• It is better to take a tool with a cut depth limiter, which, by the way, can also be adjusted with a key and without a key, respectively, the second type of hacksaws is more convenient;
• Pay attention to the head that holds the blade. There are universal models, in which any blade can be inserted, and there are heads “sharpened” only for brand-name blades of this manufacturer. It is not certain that the store will have the right model of brand-name blade, so take a universal;
• Theoretically, all saber saws have an option to disable the pendulum stroke, but when buying it is advisable to check how adequately this option works;
• A saber saw with a regulator of speed will greatly expand your capabilities in the work, and it is desirable that this regulator had the function of fine-tuning;
• Another useful feature is the ability to rotate the blade at different angles, especially useful when working on the ceiling and in hard-to-reach, cramped areas;

The cordless chain saw has less power compared to cordless models, but it is more convenient to work with

Sharpening the saw teeth

You know how a badly sharpened knife cuts a fresh loaf of loaf? That’s about how your saw will saw (albeit well sharpened) a birch log. That is, you can’t!

Recommended: Working with a brick-cutting machine

How to properly sharpen our saw? Nothing is easier! We take an ordinary three-cut file (we think every self-respecting craftsman has one) and sharpen all those simple rules. tooth by tooth, tooth by tooth, from the base to the top, from the “pyramidal base” to its peak. The teeth of the saw need to be sharpened at each tip.

Having made these simple manipulations, the net result is a tool ready for use, which “without any craftiness” can be used for realization of any, even the most courageous undertakings!

Oh, and one more tip. don’t forget to take care of your tool. Always keep it clean and tidy, keep it away from moisture, lubricate it periodically, and it will serve you well and for many, many years.

Saw tooth setter

With a wrench without a factory-made stop (A) it is difficult to make a good sawtooth setting. What did I make??

I took a piece of steel (2mm), cut (see drawing). I cut (see drawing) a piece of steel (B), along the line aa bent at an angle of 90 deg., Drilled a hole in the center and threaded a 6 mm bolt. I each drilled two 4mm diameter holes in the plate and key and riveted them. Here is a picture with an updated key. Using the bolt and lock nut I set the required inclination of the saw tooth.

With this tool it takes a few minutes to set.

Vladimir Babushkin According to “Toloka” newspaper. Do-It-Yourself.”

Reliable grip for stubborn plugs If you have ever had to pull a drilled wooden plug out of a buzz saw, you know how easy it is to remove it without damaging it.

Tooth Deployment

The teeth are deflected from the plane of the blade in staggered order, for example, all the even to the left, all the odd to the right.Only very experienced carpenters are able to set up wood saws “by eye”. This skill comes after several hundred set saws. Less experienced craftsmen are better off using a special tool. deburring.The simplest version of the tool is a flat plate of solid metal with a slot, into which the blade enters in a tight fit, with a minimum gap.The saw blade should be clamped in a locksmith’s vise. The teeth should protrude slightly from behind the jaws. The teeth are clamped one after the other in the slots of the plate tool and deflected at the center. The setting angle needs to be checked all the time. First bend all the even numbered teeth to one side, then all the odd numbered teeth to the other side. After finishing the setting, we can spread the jaws to the width of the setting and pull the cloth between them. If any of the teeth are bent more than necessary, they will get caught in the vice. They need to be corrected.

Blades with hardened teeth should not be adjusted.

Requirements for hacksaw setting

In order to do the setting correctly, you need to pay attention to the basic requirements. They are as follows:

• The procedure is carried out when the tool is clamped.
• The required angle must be kept strictly, deviation from it becomes a reason for lower quality of the cut.
• At the time of operation care should be taken that the surface is free of defects.

It is worth bearing in mind that too large an index becomes the cause of an increase in the width of the cut, thereby reducing the performance index. That’s why a special device has to be used for setting the tines.