How to sharpen a Finnish ice saw

Features of ice saws and their selection

The Rapala ice pick is a good tool for winter fishing ! It is not a titanium ice pick, but it is very lightweight. It has blades.

When assembled, the saw teeth go into the slot on the handle:

(because of the “arched” shape of the working part of the saw, the pipe must bend a little, in order to normally cover the teeth all the way through)

On both sides of the saw (in holes from the loop and on the other hand in the loop itself) tied 2 ropes, so that the tube does not fly off the teeth.

Then you have to set the saw’s teeth apart (the wider the better). It is done with the file (be careful not to saw it yourself)!

(We put a triangular file between the teeth and “divide” the teeth in pairs in different directions. Then we invert the saw by the other side and do the same thing. so the impact on each tooth will be on both sides.)

The results of field tests showed that in comparison with the Finnish ice flesh, our “homemade” saws of course shitty (subjectively in 1.5-2 times slower). However, efficiency for normal sawing is quite enough and the device is gnawing into the ice very decently. All in all it is quite usable thing (for its money).

) and not to worry. But if your “hands are itching” you can make it out of improvised materials.

Actually two-handed saw (230r in a tool store)

Plastic drainage pipe with a diameter of 40mm and a length of 1m. (everywhere 79r)

At the saw removed wooden handles and one side of the hinge is removed (rivets can be drilled, but it is better to saw an angle grinder).

The hole closest to the back is drilled to a diameter of 6mm (for the bolt).

Then make a kerf in the future handle. Very good for sawing PVC with a fresh metal blade that is easy on the hand.

First of all we make one cut, but it is not enough, because we have to use the saw.к. The pipe will “turn inward”. To have a 5 mm wide gap you need to make another hinge cut thus making a 1-1.5 cm.

(Notice the difference between the sawing strip and the gap you have made.)

Then we put the handle and drill through the pipe (getting into the drilled hole left after the hinge). It is necessary to press the future handle as tightly as possible to the back side of the saw:

Then insert bolt and screw a nut (it is better to use a wingnut). If everything is done properly, the mount should be rigid enough.

When assembled the saw teeth go into the gap on the handle:

(Because of the “arched” shape of the working part of the saw, the pipe has to bend a bit to cover the teeth all the way normally.)

On both sides of the saw (in the hole from the loop and the other hand in the loop itself) tied 2 ropes, so the tube does not fly off the teeth.

Then it is necessary to separate teeth of a saw (the wider the better). This is done with a file (be careful not to saw it yourself)!

(We put a triangular file between the teeth and “divide” the teeth in pairs in different directions. Then turn the saw over with the other end and do the same. so that each tooth is affected on both sides.)

The results of field testing have shown that compared to the Finnish ice saw, our “homemade” saws sure sucks (subjective at 1.5-2 times slower). However, efficiency for normal sawing is quite enough and the device digs into ice quite decently. In general, quite usable thing turned out (for my money).

Addendum: it seems that because we bent the saw wrongly (we bent the teeth more to one side) it started to saw not in a line but in a curve (which is pretty inconvenient). Next year (when there will be ice) we will try to make the teeth more symmetrical. let’s hope it will make things better.

The ice saw can be used in a variety of situations. For example, many fishermen use this tool to saw holes or big holes for using fishnets. Often the ice saw is used by emergency workers and scuba divers.

• The fuse for the accidental start;
• Rubberized feet and handle;
• Rigid locking of blanks;
• Metal body;
• Powerful motor and gearbox;
• Spark arrester and safety screen;
• Decent performance.

Finnish ice saw sharpening

First of all, it is necessary to make a reservation that we shall speak about the Finnish hand saw for ice. This saw has gained popularity not only in our country, but also in other cold places of the world. Advantages of this saw. Lightness. You can see ice masses up to 100 cm thick.

Among the disadvantages that are natural for a hand tool, it is worth noting the low speed compared to a chainsaw. Often a lot of ice-cutting jobs combine these two types of saws: first they work with a chainsaw, and then they finish with a Finnish arm. If you compare the speed of metal or wood, this saw will handle ice much faster.

Features of the Finnish saw handle

• Finnish saw with wooden handle is an environmentally friendly accessory, fits well in your hand, and is easy to operate;
• Saw with metal handle is more durable compared to the above option.

You have to understand this ice. This is a special file material. For example, wood, metal and foam concrete does not sting like ice. Wood fiber, plastic metal, foam concrete are closer, but also different.

Finnish ice saw cuts at a sharp angle like a spade crushing ice. Cheap metal affects the rate of blunting, not the cutting. Main. Tooth angle and sharpening. By the way, for angles at 5 and 25 different angles are desirable (because they change the angle on ice drills), but it is unrealistic.

How to sharpen ice drill blades manually?

Many ice drill users may not have special tools for sharpening blades, so the procedure is done manually. Domestic ice drills are the easiest to sharpen, because the metal from which the blades are made is easy to.

On the abrasive block

To use this method, you need to take a double-sided abrasive block and do the following:

• Fix the bar on the table, so that the stone does not slip and does not disrupt the sharpening process;
• A knife with a large cutting edge should be placed against the bar and made in a circular motion, with the force on the blade being medium. Spend up to 10-12 such motions, to eliminate possible scratches and burrs;
• The next step is to place the blade on the surface, using a coarse dusting to sharpen. In doing so, the stone should be moved in a circular motion and observe the uniform location of the ribs from the stone across the cutting edge.

Note! Keep an eye on the sharpening process during sharpening; if burrs form on the reverse side, remove them.

Using sandpaper

To sharpen the cutting part of the ice axe, prepare a round file and sandpaper, do the following

• Cut the paper in 4 cm strips;
• Around the file to wrap the paper, one edge to fix at the sharp part of the second to hold with your fingers;
• Fix the ice axe blades at the required angle in a vise;
• Make straight movements with the file, observing the necessary angle.

Note! Such method allows to sharpen the blades, which are not very blunt, for neglected cases it is necessary to use an abrasive stone or a special machine.

Using GOI paste

In order to sharpen the product, it is necessary to prepare paste and glass. The paste is applied directly on the glass and a circular motion is applied to the cutting edge.

This method is used only for the cutting part. The sharpening of knives requires a long procedure. This type of technique is used very rarely, and is most often used to remove burrs.

Ice Drill Sharpening Machine

Sharp ice drill blades allow the fisherman to make holes in the ice shell of the reservoir quickly and easily.

But over time, any cutting elements have to be sharpened. This is done by several methods.

What, what options there are for sharpening ice drill knives you will learn next.

A good ice pick is a great source of pride for the winter fisherman. Often on the pond are staged true sport battles on the speed of drilling holes.

Not always victory comes to young and physically strong fishermen armed with imported ice picks. Old men with old Russian tools win a tough wager.

Beginning anglers who buy Swedish tools don’t even notice how uniformly the knives become blunt. Small grains and stones in the ice cause chipping and pitting on the cutting edge.

It’s not until a meter thick of ice that one realizes it’s time to sharpen them.

It can be done by different methods of course. That, how to correctly sharpen an ice drill we will tell further.

The most common way to sharpen trapezoidal design knives is on a sander.

But before you give your cutting elements to the factory grinder, you should ask about the presence of a special device. It allows you to install the blade on the machine at any angle, which will ensure a small removal of the metal layer.

Some woeful specialists take this job without angular stand. Then these craftsmen-grinders simply process the working plane, removing a layer of hardened metal on the whole area. If there is a chipping at the tip, the knife is thinned down to 1 mm during one sharpening.

Try to sharpen knives in such way 2-3 times, and instead of 6-7 mm thickness you will get 3-4 mm. This will not only aggravate the performance of the ice pick, but also creates an additional risk of breaking the cutting tool.

Even after sharpening properly, burrs and iron chips remain on the sharpened edge of the knives. For this purpose, at home they should be machined a little abrasive stone or sandpaper by hand. The knife, brought to a perfect condition, will last longer for the careful owner.

Not all our forefathers sharpened blades of their own ice drills on grinding machines. Most of them did this work by hand.

Now if you have your time and desire to perform sharpening without taking your eyes off the TV of course.

What is successfully sharpened ice axe blades in artisanal conditions need to prepare such ordinary materials such as:

Before you start work, you need to assess the condition of the cutting edge of the knife. If there are chipped points, as it is also called a blade, you will immediately have to remove a certain layer of steel.

• Here the medium grit abrasive stone is placed on the rubber. The knife is soaked in water and at first the largest edge is sharpened. Sharpening should be carried out radial movements with a light even pressure of the blade on the stone surface. Moistening allows faster to get an abrasive paste on the steel-stone interface, which will perfectly remove the metal layer. Usually 10-15 movements are enough to correct the flatness of the knife.
• In the second step, the knife is placed with the blade against the bar at the same angle as the factory sharpening. It is better to hold the knife with 2 hands, pressing the blade to the abrasive surface. And again stable radial movements are made. After 10 laps you should perform a sharpening control.
• Once the chips are removed from the cutting edge, you can bring the surface of the knife to perfect sharpness on a fine abrasive stone. The sequence of operations is the same as with the medium-grained sharpening stone.
• Particularly fastidious people, what is left to do our customer loves to do high quality, the final finishing of course produce glass and paste GOI.

READ What is the Sharpening Angle of a STIHL chain saw chain?

Nowadays lots of fishermen are happy owners of Swedish ice picks. But what the game slots, which rounded knives give when drilling ice, is converted into a significant inconvenience in sharpening.

The rarest grinder is really able to sharpen the cutting tool. Therefore, the fisherman himself must learn how to make such knives work.

Let’s look at two methods of sharpening a Swedish ice pick:

Manual sharpening is produced by the semicircular rathole and emery paper with grit H4-H6. Sandpaper is cut into 3-4 cm wide pieces. The length of the blade depends on the characteristics of the rathole. Sandpaper is bent under the edge of the rathole, and still today is held near the handle with your fingers.

Ice pick blade must be secured with a vise. For this purpose, you have to clamp the two standard screws in the lips, on which the knife will be planted. Sharpening is made by straight movements on yourself, observing the angle of the tool. When the deeds will be brought to automatism, the sharpening process will take less than 5-10 minutes. Mechanical method of Swedish knives sharpening requires a special machine, equipped with a cutter. There is an option to change it with an electric drill with a burr. The knife itself is also mounted in a vice, but in order not to remove the excessive layer of metal, the treated surface needs to be painted with a spirit marker. During the work it is important to watch the trajectory of the electric device.

The first passes are made without pressure, and when the action is remembered by the muscles of the hands, the work will take a few minutes. At the time of such sharpening it is necessary to use the locksmith’s goggles to prevent the abrasive from getting into the eyes.

Any of described methods is applicable for high-quality sharpening of ice drill blades.

It is principally for the newcomer in this activity not to hurry, the 1st movements should be slow, but precise. A dozen of the same repetitions, and the muscles will remember who the gesture. Then of course to speed up the process, remembering from time to time to keep under control sharpening.

A little time and effort will then be repaid fisherman comfortable drilling holes on the pond.

Sharpening the Finnish ice saw

First of all, we must make the caveat that we will be talking about a Finnish hand saw for ice. This type of saw has become popular not only in our country, but also in other cold places of the world. Advantages of this saw. ease. You can see ice masses up to 100 cm thick.

Among the disadvantages inherent in hand tools, it is worth noting the low speed compared to a chainsaw. Often a lot of ice trimming work combines these two types of dust: they work with a chainsaw first, and then finish with a Finnish hand. Comparing the speed of work with metal or wood, this saw will handle ice much faster.

Features of the Finnish saw arm

• The Finnish wood handle saw is an eco-friendly accessory, fits well in your hand and is easy to handle;
• A saw with a metal handle is more durable than the above option.

You have to understand this ice. It’s a special file material. For example, wood, metal and foam do not break like ice. Wood fiber, plastic, foam concrete are closer, but they are also different.

The Finnish ice saw cuts at a sharp angle, like a spade, crushing ice. Cheap metal has a greater impact on dulling speed than cutting. Main. Tooth angle and sharpening. By the way, different angles for ice are desirable at 5 and 25 (because the angle on the ice picks changes), but it is not realistic.

Homemade ice saw

You can kuipypt normal Finnish saw for ice (2200-2500r here or here) and not steamed. But if your hands are “itching” to make it from improvised materials.

Practically a two-handed saw (tool store. 230r)

Plastic pipe for the sewer cross section of 40mm and dlinnovatoy 1m. (79p everywhere)

We take out the handle from wood and remove the hinge on one side (you can drill out the rivets but it’s better to saw with an angle grinder).

The hole closest to the back side is drilled to a cross section of 6 mm (for the bolt).

Then we make the cut in the future handle. Very good for cutting PVC with a fresh band saw blade that easily fits in your hand.

At the beginning we make one cut, but it’s not enough.к. The pipe will “wrap inward”. To get the gap to a width of 5 mm you need to make another cut, choosing the rate of 1-1.5 cm.

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Ice Drill Rapala knives are not removable. Ice saw. Winter fishing. Ice fishing

The Rapala ice pick is a good tool for winter fishing ! This is not a titanium ice drill, but it is very light. The knives have.

When assembled the teeth of the saw go into the gap on the handle:

(because of the “arched” shape of the working part of the saw, the pipe has to bend a bit to normally cover the teeth all the way around)

On both sides of the saw (in the holes from the loop and on the other side in the loop itself) is tied 2 ropes, so that the pipe does not fly off the teeth.

Then we need to separate the teeth of the saw (the wider the better). This is done with a file (be careful not to saw it yourself)!

(Put a triangular file between the teeth and “move” in pairs of teeth in different directions. Then flip the saw over with the other end and do the same thing. so the impact on each tooth will be on both sides.)

The results of field tests showed that in comparison with the Finnish ice carpentry, our “self-made” saws of course shitty (subjecc tively in 1.5-2 times slower). However the efficiency for good sawing is quite enough and device digs into ice very decently. In general, quite usable thing is turned out (for my money).

) and don’t sweat it. But if your hands are itchy you can make it from handy materials.

Actually two-handed saw (tool store. 230r)

Plastic drainage pipe with diameter of 40mm and a length of 1m. (everywhere at 79p)

At saw the wooden handles are taken out and from one side the hinge is removed (it is possible to drill out the rivets but it’s better to saw with the angle grinder).

The hole closest to the back is drilled to a diameter of 6mm (for the bolt).

Then we make a cut in the future handle. Very good for cutting PVC with a fresh band saw blade on metal that is easy to hold.

First you make one cut, but this is not enough, t.к. The pipe will “wrap inside”. To get the slit with the width of 5 mm you have to make one more cut, thus choosing 1-1.5cm.

(Note the difference between the selected strip and the resulting gap.)

Then we put the handle and drill through the pipe (getting into the drilled hole left after the hinge). Make sure you press the future handle as tightly as possible against the backside of the saw:

Then we put the bolt and screw the nut (it is better to use a wing nut). If all is well done, then the mount should be rigid enough.

When assembled, the teeth of the saw go into the gap on the handle:

(Because of the “arched” shape of the working part of the saw, the pipe should bend a little to normally cover the teeth all the way around)

On both sides of the saw (in the holes from the hinge and on the other side in the hinge itself) we tie 2 ropes to prevent the pipe from flying off the teeth.

Then you need to separate the teeth of the saw (the wider the better). This is done with a file (be careful not to saw yourself)!

(Put a triangular file between the teeth and move the teeth in pairs in different directions. Then we turn the saw with the other end and do the same thing, so the impact on each tooth will be on both sides.)

The results of field testing have shown, that in comparison with the Finnish ice board, our “self-made” saws badly (subjectively by 1.5-2 times slower). However, efficiency is quite enough for good sawing and the device digs into ice very decently. In general, it is quite usable (for my money).

Addendum: it seems that because we bent the saw wrongly (we bent the teeth more to one side) it started to saw not along the line but along the arc (which is pretty inconvenient). Next year (when there will be ice) we will try to make the teeth more symmetrical. hopefully it will fix the situation.

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Ice saw

When frosts and ice freeze Russian bodies of water, the Finnish ice saw comes to the rescue. It is made of high-strength tempered steel and is sharpened in a special way that does not require additional sharpening: it will be a faithful companion and helper for many years to come.

Finnish saws feature high quality steel, the best Scandinavian anti-corrosive steel that is balanced and has excellent cutting properties. The saw blade keeps its sharpness for many years, it is not subject to deformation and is tempered during the production by high temperature Celsius of 1140 degrees, that allows it to have similar qualities and a similar hardness of the blade.

The saw blade has a special coating, developed by the Finnish equipment manufacturer Laxtrom that prevents snow from sticking when you cut the ice.

Finnish saws are made with two types of handles:

Internet-shop Fishing House offers a Finnish saw with a wooden handle. Its advantages are that wood, unlike metal, does not cool in the cold, the wooden handle has recesses for placing fingers, and also protects against blistering while working with the saw, as it has a faceted structure, unlike the round metal handle.

Finnish saws are often used by winter fishermen, as the equipment allows to quickly and easily cut not only a hole for winter fishing, but also to cut an ice hole or make ice figures.

Ice drills are not always used for making holes, because only uniform ice can be drilled safely, without damaging the blade of knives, but if, due to weather conditions, the ice is different in structure layers, then the drill can by no means be used, even manual, as you will quickly lead to a non-working condition and blades and drill. To help in these situations will come the Finnish saw, which quickly saws the ice to a depth of 1 meter with different structural layers of ice.

To start with the saw it is required to prepare a small hole which can be made with an ice axe, if the ice is not very crystallized, or to prepare a hole with the auger.

Finnish saw is also popular with fans of winter swimming walrus. Who carve out a pool and enjoy a swim in the cold water.

Genuine Finnish equipment. You can buy the Finnish saw in the online store Dom Fishing. We wish you a pleasant winter holiday.