How to take the drill out of the drill. How to use a quick-change chuck

Let’s find out how to take the drill out of the drill: simple and effective method, drill device, tips

Modern drills use two basic types of chucks, which differ in the way the drill is clamped. The first type includes key chucks. This design allows you to fix the drill through a special wrench, which rotates the adjusting ring in the clockwise direction until the complete fixation of the element. The second type includes quick-action chucks. The design allows the drill bits to be manually replaced and locked in place. This is very convenient if you need to replace the nozzle frequently. However, there are situations in which it is difficult to change the drill in the chuck. In that case, it does not hurt a few useful tips on how to get the drill bit out of the drill without a wrench. We will tell you about this further on.

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Types of drills for drills

All blades that are used to work with a drill can be divided into the following groups:

• Specials for metal work are used most often. Today there are models available that can work with metal surfaces, differing in hardness and other characteristics.
• Special wood blades, which are available in different variations. They can be ordinary or feather blade.
• Drill bits are used for concrete walls. They are used in some cases, if there is no torch at hand. But this does not mean that the drill, even with the presence of an impact effect, can fully replace the peorator, as this equipment is not designed for such works.
• To work with wooden surfaces, special crowns are used, which allow you to perform a variety of activities.
• To work with concrete, special bits are produced that have serrated edges.

When deciding how to replace the drill, the chuck on the drill, it is necessary to consider the model of equipment. Today, manufacturers offer an extensive model range, differing not only in purpose, but also in diameter. The most commonly used diameters are from 0,5 mm up to 10-15 cm.

Blades designed for metal are usually up to 2 cm in diameter. They all have a special, recognizable tip in the form of a cone. They can be used for work with drywall, wooden surfaces. Working blades for metal should always be carefully honed.

It is important to make sure that the temperature control is maintained. If the blade gets hot during operation, the drill must be switched off. When a drill bit becomes blunt, it must be replaced, otherwise work with metal will be impossible.

Drill bit replacement

To change the drill bit in your drill, you must first stop the chuck completely.

Do not brake it with your hands. you risk temperature injury. To properly remove the drill from the drill, you must perform a few simple steps, strictly following the sequence. If you have a drill withquick-action chuck. then follow this procedure.

• Take your finger off the starter button.
• After stopping the rotor, clamp the lower part of the chuck with the left hand and turn the upper part counterclockwise with the right hand.
• As a result of your actions, the cams of the mechanism will separate, and the drill can be removed.

When the tool with by mechanically tightening the chuck

So that the key is always near the drill and not lost. fasten it on a special carabiner to the power cord, as shown in the photo.

How to get the drill out of the peorator: expert tips

Construction work now requires the use of various tools, one of which is a peorator. With the help of this device, workers make holes of different diameters, as well as carry out the dismantling of various reinforced concrete or stone structures.

It often happens such situations when it is very difficult or even impossible to get the nozzle out of the chuck of the device. This raises the question of how to remove the auger from the rotary table without damaging the device. To do this, you must first find out what the causes of such troubles are.

Varieties and Causes of Drill Bit Jamming in the Peorator

There are two of the most common variants of this trouble:

• the drill bit jams in the drill chuck or in the buffer element that is used to fit the usual attachment to the peorator;
• The workpiece becomes stuck in the clamping mechanism of the pen.

In the first case, the problem appears due to the fact that the task requires a drill that is used for an ordinary drill. There is a special product for its installation. a transition chuck the same as in a conventional electric drill. It is inserted into the clamping element of the peorator, after which you can start working.

In some cases it is not easy to remove the drill bit after work, because the jaws of the work jig are holding it too tight. This problem is quite simple to solve, because its root lies in the improper use of the clamping mechanism. Some craftsmen simply forget about its regular lubrication, so the tool jams.

To unclog the lips of this device, you should treat them with special compositions, for example, WD-40. If you do not have such a substance on hand, and the hardware store is far away, you can use kerosene as a working fluid.

It is then necessary to wait about a few minutes for the compound to work. After that, tap the surface of the clamp with a hammer while simultaneously loosening the product. After such manipulation the device lips give way and the auger can be removed.

Finally the drill bit has to be dismantled, cleaned and lubricated.

WD-40 liquid can be used to remove the drill from the pen

In the second case, the drill is stuck in the chuck. This fault could be caused by something else entirely than a jamming of the adapter. The nozzle in the electric drill moves around its axis, in some cases making a slight reciprocating motion. This is due to the transfer of energy into the body of the tool through the jaws and the bottom of the chuck.

The Peorator uses a different technology of power transmission, and, accordingly, the nozzle in the clamp moves differently. Because the peorator has a rotary-impact and a simple percussive motion vector of the tool.

The power is transmitted to it by a special striker, which is driven by a power unit that works with electricity.

This hammer has a mechanical effect on the shanks of the tools installed in the chuck, such as a drill, drill bit, drill bit or chisel.

Sometimes a vice is used to extract the core bit from the rotary table

These tools are equipped with special grooves so that they can be held securely in the chucking device. These grooves also serve to provide energy to the tool so that it can rotate.

Low quality tools are made of soft alloys that do not undergo thermal treatment. The shanks of such products can not withstand high and continuous mechanical loads and therefore become unusable.

In this case, the tool may have to be disassembled before the auger can be removed from the peorator.

Ways to get the auger out of the hole

As soon as the auger gets jammed in a concrete wall, floor or any other similar construction, it is necessary to immediately switch off the rotation mode, if it is on, and leave only the impact.

After that it is necessary to pull the tool towards yourself while jerking it away from the surface in which it is stuck. These movements will cause the drill to break some of the concrete layer holding it in place, after which it should simply and effortlessly come out.

This method can help in case of jamming the drill in the wall construction because of a large fraction, and in case of hitting the product in the armature.

Another easy way to remove the drill from the surface is to use the reverse rotation function. This feature is not available on all tools and its use leads to slipping of the barrel unit of the mechanism. If the device has a warranty, you can try to remove the drill with this method.

Go to http://vse-postroim-sami.If you want to find out how to make a concrete vibrator from a peorator, you can find out how to make a concrete vibrator from a peorator yourself. About how to choose the right peorator, read this article You may also be interested in what kinds of drill bits for drilling in concrete.

There is also a rather extravagant way to extract the core drill. For this you need a gas wrench. It is necessary to screw it on the nozzle, and then unscrew it in the opposite direction.

This method works because the gas wrench has a rather long lever, with which you can apply a lot of force. But if it does not work, you can try tapping with a hammer on the bottom of the key.

At the same time you have to loosen the vibrator from side to side. The combination of these movements will cause the drill to come out fairly quickly.

In some cases, you will have to make a few extra holes with another tool before you remove the drill from the tile cutter.

As a result, around the drill should form a large hole, the diameter of which should be about 10 centimeters. The drill will go out along with the wall part and the hole can be sealed afterwards.

This method is suitable when it is not possible to close or cut the drill in the wall.

If none of the above methods came up, then the nozzle will have to simply saw off with an angle grinder, beat it off with a sledgehammer or something to cover it.

How to release the quick-action chuck

To release the double-sleeved chuck, you must turn the sleeve so that you don’t break the ratchet. To do this, you need to use a variety of plumbing tools. wrenches, otherwise you will have to completely disassemble the drill and unscrew the head. And it means that it is necessary to unscrew the screws on the body and, having remembered the location of parts, to reassemble the drill.

With a one-oft structure element, the order of action does not change, that is, try to unscrew first with a plumber. wrench and then simply disassemble the drill and remove the chuck by disassembling it.

In the case where the drill is expensive, you need to make several cuts. Also, the problem can be dirt that got inside and makes the mechanisms get stuck. It can be sand, earth and water, or rust. In this case it is necessary to take out the insides of the drill and thoroughly clean it, and then start to take out various stones and pieces of grass.

Note! It is better to film on your phone or record a video of all the steps of disassembly of the tool, as there is a chance to forget something or start pulling out the wrong parts.

Turning the double socket chuck

How to get the drill out of the wall?

Construction work now requires the use of various tools, one of which is a peorator. With the help of this device, workers make holes of different diameters, as well as carry out the dismantling of various reinforced concrete or stone structures.

It often happens such situations when it is very difficult or even impossible to get the nozzle out of the chuck of the device. This raises the question of how to remove the auger from the chuck without damaging the device. To do this, you first need to understand what causes such problems.

Varieties and Reasons of Drill Bit Jamming in the Peorator

There are two most common variants of this trouble:

• The drill jams in the drill chuck or in the buffer element that is used to mount the conventional nozzle in the peorator;
• the product is stuck in the clamp of the drill itself.

In the first case, the problem appears due to the fact that the task requires a drill that is used for a conventional drill. There is a special product for its installation. a transitional chuck, the same as in a usual electric drill. It is inserted into the clamping element of the peorator, after which you can start working.

After their completion, in some cases it is not possible to simply pull out the drill bit, because the lips of the clamping device hold it tightly. This problem is quite easy to solve, because the root of it lies in the improper use of the clamping mechanism. Some masters simply forget about its regular lubrication, so the tool jams.

To unclench the lips of this device, you should treat them with special compositions, for example, WD-40. If you do not have such a substance on hand, and the hardware store is far away, you can use kerosene as a working fluid.

Then wait a few minutes to allow the compound to work. After that, you should tap the surface of the clamp with a hammer, simultaneously loosening the product. After you have done this, the jaws will give way and the drill can be removed.

In the end, you need to dismantle the chuck, clean it and lubricate it.

You can use the liquid WD-40 to remove the drill from the peorator

In the second case, the drill is stuck in the chuck. This fault has quite different causes than a jamming issue in the adapter. The nozzle in an electric drill moves around its axis, in some cases making a slight reciprocating motion. This is done by transmitting the energy to the tool body through the jaw and the bottom of the chuck.

The peorator uses a different energy transfer technology and, accordingly, the bit in the jaw moves in a different way. Because the rotary-impact and simple-impact movement vectors of the tool are used in the rotary drill.

The energy is transmitted to it by means of a special striker, which is driven by a power unit that works with electricity.

This bit acts mechanically on the shank of the inserted tools such as drills, borers, core bits and chisels.

Sometimes a vice is used for extracting the drill bit from the rotary table

These elements are equipped with special grooves, by means of which they are securely fixed in the clamping device. These grooves also serve to give the tool the energy to make the rotation.

Low quality tools are made of soft alloys that are not heat treated. The shanks of such products do not withstand high and prolonged mechanical loads, so they become unusable.

In this case, the tool may have to be disassembled before the auger can be removed from the pen.

Ways to get the drill out of the torch

As soon as the drill jams in a concrete wall, floor or any other similar structure, you must immediately turn off the rotation mode, if enabled, and leave only the kick.

After that it is necessary to pull the tool towards yourself while jerking it away from the surface in which it is stuck. These movements will cause the auger to break a part of the concrete layer holding it in place, after which it should simply and effortlessly come out.

This way helps even if the drill gets jammed in the wall construction because of a coarse fraction, and in the case of a hit in the armature.

Another easy way to remove the auger from the surface is to use the reverse rotation function. This feature is not available on all tools, and besides, its use leads to slipping of the drum unit of the mechanism. If your machine has a warranty, you can try this method for extraction.

Go to http://vse-postroim-sami.In this article, you will learn how to make a concrete vibrator from a peorator by yourself. To learn how to choose the right motor, see this article You might also be interested in what kind of bits for concrete drilling.

There is also a rather extravagant way to remove the drill. You will need a gas wrench. It should be screwed on the nozzle, and then unscrew it in the opposite direction.

This method works because the gas wrench has a fairly long lever, with which you can apply a lot of force. But if this method does not work, you can try tapping with a hammer on the handle.

At the same time you have to loosen the core drill from side to side. The combination of these movements will cause the drill to come out fairly quickly.

In some cases, before removing the auger from the peorator, it will be necessary to make several additional holes with another tool.

as a result, a large hole should form around the drill, which should be about 10 centimeters in diameter. The drill will come out together with a fragment of the wall, the resulting hole can be subsequently sealed.

This method is suitable when you can neither close the drill in the wall, nor cut it.

If none of the above methods is suitable, then the nozzle will have to simply saw off with an angle grinder, beat off with a sledgehammer or something to masticate.

How to remove the drill bit from an electric screwdriver

Even the most reliable brand-name power tools, such as an electric drill, torch or an electric screwdriver, not to mention Chinese-made tools, eventually, depending on the intensity of use, wear out and begin to poorly hold drills, bits, or jam the chuck.

Such fate befell the chuck of my power drill, which has been faithfully serving for more than 12 years.

The failure began with jamming, which was expressed in the difficulty of rotating the jaw ring.

In addition, during the apartment renovation water got inside the chuck and a rust deposit appeared in the guide grooves of the chuck jaws. The jaw faces are also worn out.

Although the drill chuck was still working, it was a real hassle to change the bits. I decided to replace it with a new one, and then the question arose as to how to remove the chuck from the shaft of the drill?

Ways to attach a drill chuck

In order to answer the question of how to remove the drill chuck it is necessary to understand the existing ways of fixing chucks on the shafts of drills and screwdrivers.

There are two ways of attaching a chuck to a power tool. The first method was proposed as early as 1864 by Stephen Morse using a cone. Morse, by the way, is also the inventor of the twist drill.

The essence of the method is to mate two surfaces in the form of a shaft and a part with a hole, having the same taper with an angle ranging from 1°25’43″ to 1°30’26″. The Honor inventor called this method of attachment a Morse taper, which is pictured below.

The cone in the photo has a larger angle for clarity.

Morse taper fastening method is widespread as it is simple and reliable enough for loads along the axis, as in drills and screwdrivers.

To fix the drill chuck, it is enough to put it with a little force on the back side of the shaft with the Morse cone.

Removable chuck is also simple, just hit its body along the axis in the direction of the place of installation of the drill with a hammer.

The ability to quickly install and remove the tool while working is the main advantage of fastening with the Morse taper.

The second, more common nowadays for securing a drill chuck to the shafts of power tools, is a threaded chuck.

On the end of the shaft coming out of the drill or electric screwdriver, a metric or inch thread is cut and the drill chuck, like a nut to the flange, is screwed on this shaft.

Since the threads are right-handed and the chuck rotates in a clockwise direction during work, it is constantly tightened and thus secured to the tool.

How the drill chuck is attached to the tool

Visually inspecting the power tool, it is often not possible to determine which way a drill chuck is secured. But if you know the marking, the fastening method can be determined even with a cursory glance at the chuck.

Markings for drill chucks with Morse taper

According to GOST 9953-82 “Shortened cone tools. Main dimensions.

“There are nine Morse taper sizes available for drill chucks: B7, B10, B12, B16, B18, B22, B24, B32 and B45.

The higher the number after the letter B, the bigger the cone size.

Now you can easily identify the installation method of the drill chuck shown in the picture by its marking.

Obviously this chuck is fastened using a Morse cone of size B10.

To remove this chuck from the shaft of the power tool, you will need to knock it off with a hammer.

There are more digits 1-6 in the marking before B10. They stand for the range of diameters of the drill bit shanks that the chuck can accept.

Marking of screwed drilling chucks

Both metric and inch threads are used to fasten the drill chuck to the tool using threads.

Chucks of domestic manufacturers, as a rule, are available with metric thread, and the imported manufacturer is always with inch thread.

A drill chuck with metric thread attachment usually has the following markings on the housing: 1,5-13 М12×1,25.

The numbers 1.5-13, as you may have already guessed, refer to the diameter of the shanks of drills or other tools that can be clamped in a given chuck.

The letter M indicates that the thread is metric. The numbers 12 and 1.25 indicate the diameter and thread pitch, respectively.

At the present time drill chucks with fastening on the metric thread almost never occur, except that such a chuck can be seen on the old Soviet manual drill.

Nowadays the market is filled with power tools of foreign manufacturers, and drilling chucks are usually fastened with an inch thread.

Numbers 2-13 denote the range of clamped diameters of drill shanks, 1/2. diameter of thread in inches (for reference, one English inch equals 2.54 cm), 20 indicates the number of threads per inch (thread pitch).

Having learned the rules of marking drilling chucks, now you can easily determine the method of its attachment to the tool and choose the correct technology of chuck replacement. The marking also allows you to buy an interchangeable chuck in case it wears out or breaks on your drill or electric screwdriver.

In domestic drills and screwdrivers usually set one of the types by the way of clamping the working tool chucks, this with a wrench and a quick-clamp.

Key cam chucks appeared long ago and are well known to any home handyman.

Quick-action chucks have been in use quite recently, and they quickly became very popular.

Both types of chucks can be clamped with equal success. Only the convenience and speed of changing drills in a drill with a quick-change chuck is undeniable.

You don’t need a wrench that will always get lost while working unless it is clamped to the drill or tied to it on a rope, you need two hands to clamp the drill.

The way of fastening of the chuck is not connected with the way of its fastening on the drill shaft, so if you change the chuck with a key way of fastening, I advise to install a chuck with a quick-clamp way of fixing drills instead.

Disassembling the cam chuck of a drill with a quick-clamp nut

To repair a tool, it must first be disassembled

To clean the jaws, lubricate the moving parts and threads of the chuck, it must be disassembled. Disassembly is necessary for repair and replacement of defective parts. Here is a brief list and sequence of operations for disassembling the cam chuck:

• The removed chuck with the cone part upwards, encased in wooden spacers, is clamped in a vice by the sleeve.
• Use a gas wrench to gently unscrew the notched nut.
• The bearing is pulled out. Washer is taken out.
• Remove the chuck from the vice.
• The adjusting coupling is twisted off the base by hand. If it does not give way (it is jammed), the cartridge is turned over and again pressed by the sleeve in a vice. Pour some machine oil on the threaded part of the coupling and the base. Then use a gas wrench to skillfully unscrew the base from the socket.
• If there is a retaining ring or nut at the bottom, it can be removed.
• The cams are pulled out of the guide rings and removed from the base cone.
• All parts of the drill chuck are carefully inspected. If worn, deformed or broken parts are found, they must be discarded and replaced.
• Assemble the cam chuck in reverse order. At the same time all moving parts are lubricated with a special grease. It is best to use the grease recommended by the manufacturer.

The procedure for disassembling chucks of other models may be different. This depends on the type of chuck, its design and the manufacturer of the drill. To make your own disassembly of the drill chuck, you need to meet three conditions:

How not to lose a key?

To avoid being faced with unfinished work with empty hands, it is important to properly organize the workspace. Such organization allows you not to lose your key every time you change tools.

It is better to equip the key with a large, brightly colored key ring. It does not get lost in the mess on the workbench or lost in the of your work clothes.

The easiest way to insure against loss is in your own workshop. Make a permanent place for the chuck and always keep it there. In this case, the place of storage should be sufficiently convenient and at hand:

• Many manufacturers equip their tools with an eye for fixing a swivel. It is placed either under the handle or close to the fork. Inserting the key into this hole, you can be calm. it will not get lost. The only disadvantage. over time, the mount will wear out and tear.
• The ear for the wrench is made of insulating tape. It is attached to the power cord. The attachment point is usually positioned 50-60 cm from the handle. This way the swivel won’t interfere with your work and is always readily available.
• After attaching a ring to the key, you can hang it on a hook near the workbench.

If possible, it is worth stocking up on another wrench. It is stored in a box in the workshop, away from the place of work. If the main key gets lost, the backup key is handy and will save the situation.

If you find during work that the swivel from the clamping mechanism is missing, the main thing is not to panic. With the help of folk methods it is quite possible to release the chuck, take out or change the drill bit, finish the job.