How to Tension the Chain on an Electric Saw

Correct chain adjustment

Chainsaw performance depends to a large extent on correct chain adjustment and tension. If the chain is of normal length, then this process will not take much time and effort.

Important: during operation, the metal heats up and expands, which leads to an elongation of the chain. Check the tension periodically and adjust it.

The tightening process looks simple enough and takes a few minutes:

  • Loosen the nuts on the overhead guard;
  • The adjusting screw is the correct tension;

tension, chain, electric

Important: A correctly tensioned chain can easily move along the tire with a slight effort of the hand, without making any extraneous sounds and without stopping. At the same time, with the correct tension, the links should not sag.

  • Tighten the nuts and check the tension, correct if necessary;

Circuits are classified according to the following parameters:

  • Step. By this term, it is customary to mean the distance (measured in inches) between the first and third rivets, divided in half. Virtually all existing saw chains fall into five groups: “, 0.325”, 3/8 “, 0.404” and “. When choosing, you should take into account: the larger the step, the greater the performance, but at the same time the load on the engine increases significantly;
  • Drive link shank thickness. This refers to the depth of the tire’s groove, along which it moves during the sawing process. The deeper the fit, the less likely the chain will fly off the tire.

Slack saw chain tension

Hello to all visitors and those who first came to my modest resource “Secrets of the Master”!
As you understood from the title of the article, we will talk about the chain saw and everything connected with it.
Consider several issues of operating this tool and not only.

  • How to tension a slack saw chain if the tensioning mechanism no longer allows?
  • Not much about sharpening the chain cutter.
  • What can be used as a stand for cutting a log? Unusual solution.
  • How and with what to cut firewood? Own experience.

So, let’s begin.
Those who have come across a chain saw know that after a period of time robots the chain tension looses.

And it can sag so much up to jumping off the tire right in the process of cutting, which in itself is not safe.
Therefore, it is just necessary to observe the stretch.

There can be three reasons for the chain slack, as I think.
The first.
Overheating due to poor chain lubrication.
The second.
Drive sprocket generation.
Low-quality metal of the chain itself.
Unfortunately, this also happens.
In all cases, you need to deal with the problem and, if possible, fix it.

✓ For example, poor lubrication or lack of lubrication may be due to:

  • oil pump malfunctions,
  • no tightness of the tubes,
  • Gears of engagement with the pump are “lapped”.

✓ Sprocket production. long service life.

✓ Not a high-quality chain. the cheapness of the product itself. It is clear that, ideally, all this needs to be simply replaced and that’s it.

But this does not always work out, for a very simple reason. the lack of the necessary parts at hand.

Next, you will find out.

Causes of circuit malfunction

Like any part, a saw chain requires attention and proper maintenance. First of all, these words refer to the running-in period of the chainsaw and saw headset. However, their serviceability should be monitored throughout the entire operational period.

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How to sharpen a chain cutter?

Now the Internet is full of information on this topic.
I also learned a lot, tried it, experimented.

And in the end I came to the conclusion, if, of course, you do not professionally sharpen the chain, then the best way at the household level, in my subjective opinion, is to sharpen using a regular semicircular file.

Firstly, nothing complicated. a shoe on the inner plane of the tooth and that’s it.

The main thing is to do it in one direction, For example, from yourself.

Secondly, it is absolutely not expensive for money.

In short, 15 minutes of effort and the chain is ready to cut wood again.

Kohl, I touched on the topic of wood, I would also like to share with you my best practices for harvesting firewood for the winter.

DIY chain shortening

Like any other part, the chainsaw chain gradually wears out, and constant loads and work in different temperature conditions leads to its lengthening. In this case, it is impossible to tighten it correctly; it periodically flies off the tire. Is it possible to repair such a detail at home. As practice shows, this does not require special devices, skills or high qualifications. However, you should take care of the presence of a vice, file, hammer, pliers and breakdown.

If you have all these tools, you can safely start disassembling:

  • Determine how much the chain length has increased;
  • We fix the chain in a vice;
  • With a file or a file we grind off the protruding heads of the rivets, while trying not to touch the lateral parts of the links;
  • We dismantle the rivets using a breakdown or a squeeze clamp;

Important: when separating the links, be sure to count the guides on the inside. There must be a match between them and the leading asterisk.

  • We remove the required number of links and connect the ends of the chain. For this we use old rivets;
  • Flare the rivet heads with light hammer blows;
  • We remove burrs and irregularities with a file or a file;

Important: the links can be riveted and riveted quite quickly, however, it should be remembered that after repair they will be weakened and will not be able to serve for a long time.

How to tighten a slack chain when there is nowhere to pull?

For work we need not a large number of tools.

  • metal cut-off angle grinder.
    You can use a sharpening machine.
  • Hex wrench, inscribed circle diameter 5 mm.
  • Piece of wire.
  • Sliver.

Now we will need to get to the tension screw.

  • Unscrew two screws with a hexagon.
  • Remove the cover.
  • Removing the tire and chain.
  • We clean the body with a chip of sawdust, if any.
  • Using a screwdriver, completely unscrew the tension screw.
  • We take out the stem nut.
  • We grind with an angle grinder one of the sides of the screw, or rather the one that will adjoin the saw body.

So, we need to grind off one side of the larger cylinder so that it flattens out with the smaller cylinder.

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As a result, we get the cherished millimeters, which were not enough for a full chain tension.

  • We assemble the saw in the reverse order. Everything. the chain is tensioned.

Well, in conclusion on this issue a couple of tips.

  • Do not tighten the chain too much, observe the clearances.
    See drawing.
  • Do not tighten immediately after use, as after cooling, the chain shrinks and therefore, under strong tension, it can tighten the bar and deform it, which can lead to irreversible damage to the tool.
  • Always cool the saw before adjusting.

And two more important factors that must be taken into account when operating this tool.

First. the degree of tension affects the performance of the saw.
The second is sharpening its teeth at the cutting speed.

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Now let’s start sharpening.

How to remove a rivet

To change the elements of the chain or shorten it, you will need to separate the links as follows. Fix the chain element in a vise and grind off the rivets, namely their protruding parts. For this, you can use a file or file. Be careful not to grind the side of the link.

It is not recommended to use an angle grinder, since there is a risk of overheating the links, which will lead to a change in the physical properties of the metal.

Using a beard (as it looks like, shown in the photo below), knock out a rivet.

There is another option for separating the links. To do this, you do not need to grind the heads of the rivets. Place the link, namely its rivet, over a hole in the metal or over the slightly parted jaws of the vise. Next, you should put a locksmith barb on the rivet head and hit it several times with a hammer.

Continue knocking out both rivets alternately as they are firmly secured by the opposite side of the link. Gradually, the rivets will begin to come out of the top of the link, and it will come loose.

The advantage of this method is that the rivets can be reused as they do not grind.

How to determine the degree of tension

A quick check of the chain tension is very simple: you need to grasp the prong and pull it up. If the chain is tensioned correctly, then the tail will be immersed in the groove of the bar by 1/3 of its height. An excess of this indicator indicates excessive tension, and a decrease in the indicator indicates weak.

Normally, the saw should move freely along the tire, without much effort. If the movement of the element is difficult, this is a sign of excessive tension.

With a strong tension on the cutting element of the chainsaw, the tire begins to heat up and grind, the load on the engine increases, and it quickly wears out. Do not start up the machine with a loose chain, as it can be pinched and cut off when sawing, which poses a danger to the user of the machine. The chain can fly off the tire and injure limbs, and it often breaks itself and damages the tire. Also, working with a weakened chain element leads to one-sided tire wear, after which the device stops making even cuts, and the saw is taken to the side.

The main problems with the chainsaw chain

Chainsaw users are often faced with the problem of saw chain tension. It either weakens spontaneously, or stretches and flies. As a rule, these troubles are caused by unit breakdowns. Therefore, before proceeding with the chain link tensioning procedure, you should check and eliminate possible causes that may lead to incorrect adjustment.

The reasons for the stretching of the chain on the chainsaw may be heavy loads or insufficient lubricant supply to the tire. This causes the saw to overheat, the metal expands, the saw element becomes larger and falls off the bar. Oil flow can be disrupted if the pump breaks down, clogged channels, breaks in the oil hose.

If you changed the chain on the chainsaw to a new one, then be prepared for the fact that during the running-in period it will stretch a little. It is only necessary to check the tension in time so that the element does not fly off the tire.

A chain made of low-quality steel also stretches quickly.

When the driven or drive sprocket is worn, the effectiveness of the adhesion to the chain links decreases, as a result of which the saw element flies. In this case, you will have to unscrew the chain drive and change the sprocket. Also, the saw blade of the unit can fly off due to its stretching or deformation of the tire.

If the chain on your chainsaw weakens, then a malfunctioning tensioning mechanism can cause this malfunction.

Replacing the saw element of the chainsaw

If you need to replace the chain on the chainsaw, then follow these steps.

  • Remove the cover covering the sprocket. To do this, most often it is necessary to unscrew the fastening nuts.
  • Having unscrewed the fasteners, remove the cover that covers the clutch with an asterisk.
  • Grasp the bar with your hand and push it towards the sprocket to loosen the chain.
  • Remove the chain element from the drive sprocket.
  • Now you need to install the chain on the chainsaw. Take a new saw blade and slide it onto the drive sprocket first.
  • Then you need to put the chain on the bus, placing the element in its groove around the entire perimeter. It is important that the links fit properly onto the driven sprocket on top of the tire. Pay attention to the direction of the cutting links when installing. They should be directed away from the unit, on the top of the tire.
  • Run the bar in the opposite direction to the engine to tighten the chain a little.
  • After installing the saw element, before putting the cover back in place, it is necessary to align the screw, through which the tension is adjusted, with the adjuster located behind the bar. Only then can you put on the cover and tighten the nuts slightly. Next, insert a screwdriver into the adjusting screw and apply the final tension. How the correct chain tension is made was described above.
  • Raise the tire slightly and tighten the nuts, thus securing it. It is important not to overdo it and not to rip the thread.

Is it possible to shorten the chain yourself

In the case when the chainsaw chain has stretched so much that it is no longer tensioned, it becomes necessary to reduce its length.

This also has to be done if the available bar is shorter than the chain, and it is not possible to choose a suitable sawing element.

Rules for replacing and tightening chains on a chainsaw

The chain tension on the chainsaw affects not only the normal operation of the machine, but also the safety of the operator working with it. A chainsaw is a highly traumatic tool, and a loose saw chain can have dire consequences. In turn, an over-tensioned chain increases the load on the tool. Therefore, before each start-up of the machine, you must make sure that this important element has the correct tension.

Tension Algorithm

Before tensioning the chain on the chainsaw, you must turn off the engine of the unit, or disconnect it from the mains if it is an electric saw. Do not adjust or replace the saw blade while it is hot. If this is done, the metal will shrink after cooling and the tension will be too great, which can lead to increased stress on the engine and deformation of the tire.

The chain tensioner is located on the right side of the machine, under the cover, in the place where the clutch brake is installed and the bar mount is located. On Husqwarna, Stihl, Poulan and Partner chainsaws, the external tensioner looks like an ordinary bolt.

So, in order to adjust the chain element of the apparatus, you need to perform the following steps.
  • Loosen the nuts on the right side cover slightly so that the tire is not skewed.
  • Insert a screwdriver into the tensioner adjusting bolt and turn it to the right (clockwise). From these actions, the tire will begin to move, and the chain will be tensioned. If you rotate the bolt to the left (counterclockwise), the chain links will relax.
  • Next, you should tighten the chain to a state so that it does not sag and dangle.
  • Check the tension of the element: grasp the cutter link approximately in the center of the bar and pull it down with a slight force. The chain should be taut, have elasticity, and the shank of the cutting link should fit into the groove of the bar by about 1/3 of its height.
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On a Makita electric saw, the tension adjuster is designed in such a way that it can be turned without the use of any tools. Turning it clockwise will tighten the chain, if you turn the adjuster in the opposite direction, the tension of the chain element will loosen.

How to connect links

Do not be afraid to rivet, as the rivet has a thickening in the central part, which serves as a limiter.

Some craftsmen advise joining the links by welding. This method will work if the rivets have been filed off. But first you need to experiment on some piece of iron in order to choose the appropriate welding mode.

Welding must be carried out with a short and thin electrode. The rivet is welded to the side of the link and the excess metal is removed with a file. The only drawback of this method is overheating of the metal from which the circuit elements are made. As mentioned above, due to overheating, the wear resistance of the links may decrease.

Design features and principle of operation

Units such as a chainsaw and an electric saw are made according to the same principle. They differ only in the design of the drive. In an electric saw, the engine is housed in a PVC casing. It also contains: a gearbox, a container for machine oil, a pump, a chain, etc. This design makes it possible to cope with fairly massive timber of various types.

In the operation of the unit, the quality of the sharpening of the teeth is of great importance, as well as the power of the engine.

The principle of the saws is simple, but you should know how the tool works.

Knots in the chain saw:

  • working saw chain;
  • engine;
  • reducer;
  • drives;
  • oil tank;
  • wiring;
  • body.

A chain is nothing more than a sequential number of links that are fastened together. The chain itself moves along a special plate (often called a “tire”). The material for the tire is selected very high quality, with a high strength factor. In many ways, the operating time of a chainsaw depends on this unit: the better the tire, the better the electric saw.

Tires are of two different types:

  • welded;
  • solid, which have a tip.

The latter are always made of high strength alloys. In fact, any tire is a “puff pie” of various blocks (at least three), while a driven “asterisk” is inserted into the structure.

A single device in which the tip is present is very convenient to use in a tool of large sizes (where the length of the bus is longer than the standard format). One-piece design significantly reduces friction (up to 12%). For work, a unit is best suited where there is a tire made of ultra-strong alloys: they can withstand high mechanical loads and significant heating. Also, strong high-quality alloys do not react to interaction with mechanical microparticles and can serve for a long time.

When working with a saw, it is important to understand that this tool is source of increased injury hazard. It is possible that a “kickback” may occur, which means that the saw may suddenly bounce to the side and cause injury. Such incidents occur when too much force is applied to the end of the guide bar, which rests on the work material. To ensure that such cases occur as rarely as possible, companies supply the units with a special brake: it blocks the chain automatically.

The automatic chain brake also has a second name. inertial drive. Its work is due to the presence of a protective element (shield). It covers the left hand of the worker. During the labor process, the shield is placed in such a way that it covers the hand. During operation, if a blow occurs, the hand rests against this element, the mechanism stops. Such a device significantly reduces the possibility of injury from the operating mechanism.

How to adjust and maintain an electric chainsaw

Proper lubrication of the chain itself is very important. As a result of heavy loads during the operation of the unit, an inevitably high temperature occurs and the coefficient of friction of materials increases significantly.

There is a special container on the saw, into which machine oil is added. During operation, oil is supplied in portions to the working unit (sprocket, chain). In expensive units (from the firms “Makita”, “Bosch”) there is a special dosimeter of oil supply, which contributes to a more rational consumption of a valuable product and an increase in the productivity of the unit.

There are rules of work that should be followed by both a novice master and a specialist.

  • During operation, the throttle valve must be constantly open.
  • Sawing at 90 degrees away from you is not recommended. The tool should be held at some angle from the body.
  • You should strictly follow all the recommendations that are mentioned in the instructions for using the saw.
  • Components can only be used “native”.
  • Before starting repairs, the tool must be de-energized.
  • It is recommended to carry the tool in a cover.
  • Do not raise the saw above your shoulder during work: it is life-threatening.
  • In the event of a tool wedge in the material, the saw is removed with the utmost care.
  • Fear should be the return impulse, which poses the greatest danger to the worker. When the saw is switched on, it may cause injury.
  • You should be especially careful when working with logs on which there are uncut knots. The probability of jamming in this case is very high.
  • It is impossible to work with a tool that is not tidied up and not adjusted.
  • At the beginning of work, a small test run should be carried out.
  • An important knot to watch out for is the chain. Loose chain tension will damage the tool and increase the risk of injury.

Repair scheme

You can repair the saw yourself. This is pretty easy to do. This requires the following set of tools:

  • several small files of different sizes;
  • a hook that cleans chips from the slots;
  • flat files.

The chain is best sharpened on the tool bar itself. Editing is done along the edge of the cutting tooth, while taking into account the sharpening angle (from 30 degrees). This operation must be done delicately: if the angle is set incorrectly, this will affect the quality of work and productivity of the tool.

The file is placed perpendicularly during operation (90 degrees in relation to the tire). The whole process takes place in one vector, translational vibrations are performed, you cannot make any rotational movements. After processing the tooth, the chain moves, then another element is ground. After processing all the elements, the “polishing” of the fixing cut begins. In the case when the cut clamps protrude too much, the chain will not “reach” the material. the working process will not occur. And vice versa: if the latches are excessively deepened, then the saw will get stuck in the tree. The stop is straightened using a gauge that is applied to the edge of the cutting teeth. It is important that the bar is flush with the retainer.

If the limiter protrudes too far outward, then it is trimmed with a flat file. In this case, movements are made in one direction at an angle of 90 degrees.

Possible malfunctions

There are several possible breakdowns of electric chain saws that you should be aware of.

  • Poor gearbox, which has a rigid coupling with the anchor of the electric engine. As a result, the entire load goes to the power plant. If the chain becomes blunt, then the loads increase, which increases the risk of engine overheating several times. Also, under such conditions, the wear of parts increases sharply. Sharpen the saw regularly and do not apply too much pressure during the production process.
  • Another “weak point” of saws is voltage surges in the network, from which the engine can suffer in the first place. If there is no special protection, then with voltage drops, the power plant may simply fail. Too strong protection also negatively affects the performance of the unit. power drops. The golden mean is important here. Good in this regard are products from the domestic manufacturer Interskol: they have found a rational solution to this issue.
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If the tool does not function, then it is required first of all to check the presence of current in the network. You should also check:

  • the brake mechanism of the chain itself;
  • the possibility of breakage of the inertial blade;
  • clutch and chain tensioner.

Usually, adjusting the flap allows you to eliminate the defect in a short time. The cable is also checked: damage to it leads to the fact that the unit does not work.

The saw power is significantly reduced if the carbon shields are worn out. The chain can work in jerks: it stops, then it starts to function again. If the circuit serves for a long time, then the risk of such a malfunction will increase. First of all, under such circumstances, the brake tape changes, which has worn out over a period of long operation.

In the event of any malfunction, the saw produces a sharp, strange sound. It occurs due to the lack of lubricants, the ingress of mechanical microparticles into the working unit. In this case, you should disassemble the tool, thoroughly clean all working elements.

Often, the engine of the unit heats up too much, the reasons may be as follows:

  • poor air exchange, clogged air ducts;
  • malfunction of the carburetor;
  • the engine “rests” a little during operation;
  • defective gearbox;
  • old grease;
  • the winding “short-circuits”.

If the saw makes a “curved” cut, then this confirms, first of all, that the teeth are dull.

It is also possible that the tire is about to fail. If the chain does not work, then this indicates a defect in the clutch itself or sprocket.

It should be borne in mind: it is better not to install parts of the Chinese “registration” in the tool, produced by the world’s leading manufacturers. Sooner or later, the device will break down, and it is unlikely there will be an opportunity to restore it. If the body is badly damaged, it is better to send the saw to the service, because this breakdown is very serious.

Measures such as sharpening the saw are also very important. This should be done regularly to keep the engine under minimum stress. If we neglect regular sharpening and do it rarely, then the saw blade will inevitably be drawn in, it will be exposed to too much stress and, in the end, will become unusable ahead of time. You can sharpen yourself, but it is best to take the saw to a service center. They do this work on special equipment. This is done as follows:

  • the chain is removed from the bar and mounted on the guide assembly of the equipment;
  • the chain is tensioned using a ratchet that fixes its cutting tooth;
  • there is a device on the unit that allows you to determine the correct angle (protractor);
  • with the help of an abrasive device, a small layer is removed, which is the final goal of all work;
  • after processing the first tooth, work on the second tooth follows, and so on.

Saw repair: fault diagnosis and elimination

  • Design features and principle of operation
  • Possible malfunctions
  • Disassembly rules
  • Repair scheme
  • Security measures

In a private household it is impossible to do without a saw, which is often extremely necessary for a variety of jobs. This tool is compact and powerful enough to successfully cope with various branches, wooden blanks and other similar elements. To repair a saw with your own hands, you need to have certain knowledge and skills.

Disassembly rules

Disassembling electric saws is an important phase in the repair of this unit, which must be carried out strictly according to the rules. As an example, we will consider the disassembly of a tool from the domestic company Interskol.

  • The flag is detached from the screw, it holds the tire, so the fastening should be made a little weaker.
  • Then the saw chain is also loosened with a device that adjusts the voltage.
  • Then the cover is removed, the bolts are unscrewed.
  • The chain is removed, the bus is removed from the working unit.
  • The “lid” of the working container is removed, where the oil is poured.
  • After all the screws are disconnected, the engine gearbox is removed.
  • The main asterisk is then removed. To do this, it is necessary to remove the main washer, which locks the assembly.
  • The screws are unscrewed, the toothed clamps are dismantled, then the handle is disconnected.
  • After that, the cover is removed.
  • The container with oil is removed.
  • Next, the brake lever is disassembled, which should be pressed slightly until a slight click is heard.
  • The gearbox turns over and is disconnected from the shaft and from the housing.
  • Typically, a significant amount of dirt and dust accumulates under the housing cover. All this substance should be removed by wiping the nodes with a cotton cloth soaked in alcohol.
  • Then the pump is removed from the gearbox, which is responsible for the oil supply.
  • The fixing mechanism responsible for stopping the engine is being disassembled. The fixing spring is removed, the rods are removed. You should also remove the brake band.
  • Fresh grease is applied to the working units.
  • At the end, the brushes are disassembled. To do this, you need to unscrew a few screws.
  • The rotor is removed. the last element.

The assembly of the mechanism is carried out in the reverse order. All phases of disassembly are best filmed and recorded.

Security measures

Before starting to work with an electric saw, you should make sure that there are no foreign solid objects: the presence of hard elements can damage the tool. It is necessary to reclaim a defect on the ground, the particles of which can clog the grooves through which the oil enters the operating units. Lack of regular lubrication will kill the tool in a very short time. The tool wedge should be carefully monitored: overheating of the metal leads to a loss of performance characteristics, which means that the tool life is sharply reduced. It is very simple to determine that the saw needs sharpening: if the shavings “come out” are too small and there is a bloom of dark color on it, then this indicates that the saw “dulls”.

The explanation for this phenomenon is simple: the saw cannot cut the material and crumbles it, so small fragments appear. There should be no radii on the saw head, that is, fragments with torn out areas. The shape of the teeth and the working cutting edge must be unchanged.

Before starting repair work, it is important to make a preventive inspection and correct diagnosis of the tool. The complexity of the repair directly depends on the severity of the breakdown. It often happens that it is impossible to “resolve the issue” on your own. There are breakdowns where special equipment is required. In such circumstances, the tool must be returned to a specialized service center, which has the appropriate approvals and certificates for the repair of such equipment.

In the next video, you are waiting for the repair of the chain saw gearbox.