How to unscrew a chain from a chainsaw

Chainsaw chain table

articles, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the table, which indicates the technical parameters of popular models of chains for chainsaws of different power.

Based on the recommendations of the manufacturer of the chainsaw and taking into account the technical parameters from the table, you can find out the model of the chain that is suitable for your tool and avoid mistakes when buying.

Everything you need to know about the pitch of your chainsaw for efficient operation

There are several basic parameters for choosing a chainsaw, one of them is the pitch of the saw headset. The pitch depends on the power of the chainsaw, and greatly affects the cutting speed.

How much the step matches the power determines the performance and service life of the chainsaw. Also, fuel consumption depends on its correct selection.

  • Step concept
  • What does the distance between the teeth affect?
  • 3/8 or 0.325 which is better and why
  • How to choose
  • How to find out
  • Chainsaw chain table
  • Conclusion

What does the distance between the teeth affect?

In a saw chain, the distance between the cutting teeth directly affects its performance. The more, the deeper the cutting edge can cut into the wood, provided that the stop is sharpened correctly.

Accordingly, on more powerful chainsaws, it is permissible to install a headset with a large distance between adjacent links and vice versa.

If you put a ¼ ”saw headset on a powerful chainsaw, the performance will drop significantly, and the load on the engine will increase, because the saw will run at a speed and exceed the maximum permissible speed, which ultimately can lead to overheating and seizure of the CPG.

And vice versa, installing a chain with a large pitch on a weak chainsaw will lead to the fact that the saw power will not be enough for normal cutting, of course, this will not entail serious consequences, as in the first case, but it is not comfortable to work with such a tool.

Also, the quality and accuracy of the cut depends on the distance between the links. The farther from each other adjacent cutting teeth, the stronger the vibration during work and the lower the cutting accuracy. For a more accurate cut, choose a saw head with a smaller pitch. This factor must be taken into account by those who are engaged in curly carving with a chainsaw on wood.

The chain pitch has a great influence on the so-called “rebound”. The greater the distance between the teeth, the higher the likelihood that the chainsaw will bounce.

Important! Most often, “rebound” occurs when working with the tip of the tire, for example, when making internal cuts. In this case, you need to be extremely careful, regardless of the step with which the chain is used.

When choosing a chain, the rule is that the pitch (distance between the teeth) is proportional to the power, but the cutting accuracy is inversely related, i.e. the greater the distance, the lower the accuracy.

How to choose

In the case when it is necessary to choose the optimal chain pitch for the chainsaw, it is best to take into account the manufacturer’s recommendations and, based on them, choose the type of saw headset.

If the manufacturer’s recommendations are not known, then you need to choose according to the engine power. We have provided the recommended values ​​corresponding to a certain step just above.

Important! When choosing, do not forget that the distance between the links is not the only parameter that you need to pay attention to.

It is also worth choosing the thickness of the link, the type of cutting tooth, the number of links. Performance is largely dependent on the angle of sharpening, depth of cut and the shape of the stop teeth. The sharper the restraining tooth, the higher the cutting speed, and the lower its quality.

Below we offer you to watch a video on choosing the pitch of the chainsaw chain. The video tells and shows how to determine it, for which chainsaws, which chain step to use.

3/8 or 0.325 which is better and why

Determine which parameter is better and which is not worse, since each of them has its own characteristics and is intended for chain saws of a certain power. Depending on how the saw head is correctly selected, the performance of the tool will have different indicators. If the headset is selected optimally, i.e. the distance between the links corresponds to the recommended power, then the performance of the chainsaw will be maximum. If selected incorrectly, the motor will experience overloads that can lead to malfunctions.

The optimal power ratings for 0.325 inches are 1.8-2 kW. It is for this reason that chains with such a pitch are used on the Husqvarna 142/137 chainsaw.

For parameter 3/8, a tool with a power of up to 3 kW is required. In this case, the question arises, why on Calm 180, with a power of 1.5 kW, 3/8 inch chains are used. The answer is simple: with Stihl chainsaws, power is not the most important thing, the maximum number of revolutions is of great importance. Calm 180 produces more than 13,500 rpm, due to which it is able to cut with a 3/8 inch headset.

For 0.404 inches, optimum power 4.5. 5 kW.

Important! The indicated values ​​of power and chain pitch are not necessarily character, the user himself has the right to choose the parameters of the headset that he plans to use on the chainsaw.

Step concept

Pitch. half the distance between adjacent shanks or between three adjacent rivets.

There are several sizes, 1/4 “is the smallest, 3/4” is the largest and 3/8 and 0.325 “are the most popular.

Step. a parameter that is available not only in the headset, but also in the sprockets of the tire and chainsaw.

Important! All three elements, chain, sprocket and bar, must have the same pitch parameter, otherwise installation and correct operation is impossible.

How to find out

There are several ways to find out the pitch of the chain:

  • View the pitch value on the guide bar. Manufacturers of the saw headset must indicate the length of the bar, the width of the groove and the pitch of the driven sprocket on the shank of the saw blade.
  • Measure the distance between the shanks of adjacent teeth or the centers of three adjacent rivets.
  • The method that works for chains in branded packaging is to look at the characteristics of the chain on the box.

The firm packaging of Shtil chains contains comprehensive information about the products, after reading which you can find out not only the distance between adjacent links, but also the type of teeth, the width of the link, the recommended file size for sharpening.

The distance between the chain links of a chainsaw is one of the most important parameters that in no case should be neglected. When buying a spare headset, you need to know which pitch is suitable for the tire and sprocket installed on your chainsaw, or change the chain, tire and drive sprocket as a set.

Do-it-yourself chainsaw sharpening

The tooth of the chain planes the wood like a plane, and the thickness of the chips is adjusted by the height of the stopper.

Intense sawing will quickly dull the chain. Several sharpenings may be required over the course of one day. The problem is aggravated by the fact that the tooth quickly dulls when it meets the ground. It is enough to hook the soil with the tire once or twice, and the work can be stopped. the shavings become fine and the saw stops going deep into the wood.

The sooner dull teeth are sharpened, the less material needs to be removed during sharpening, as a result. the service life of the saw chain is longer. Determining the moment when sharpening is already required is quite simple. An important feature is the feed force. A properly sharpened chain is pulled into the cut with just a little pressure. If, on the contrary, the chainsaw is forced to cut by increased feed force, then the teeth are dull. A dull chain can also be recognized if only small chips fly out of the cut instead of coarse thick chips.

In this situation, the chainsaw must be sharpened urgently. Do not cut with a dull or defective saw chain. the consequence is high stress in the body, high cyclic load, poor cutting results. In addition, this means a decrease in productivity, high fuel consumption and increased wear of all parts of the chainsaw.

Chain Teeth Parameters

To achieve optimal cutting properties, the tooth blades are given specific angles. The back of the tooth falling back at an angle forms the posterior angle of the upper blade. This angle is needed to cut the upper blade into the wood.

The backward tapering blade of the tooth forms the back angle of the end blade. This angle is needed for side cutting of the chips.

The edge of the end blade forms a rake angle with the sliding surface of the cutting link. Front angles for different types of chains vary from 60 ° to 85 °.

The back angle of the upper blade characterizes the backward tilt of the upper blade.

This angle is measured relative to the sliding plane of the cutting link and, depending on the type of saw chain, ranges from 50 ° to 60 °. The top blade is the main blade and the back corner of the top blade. this is the most important corner. The clearance angle of the upper blade is difficult to measure, the correct value is obtained by observing other prescribed values.

The sharpening angle or entering angle is obtained by measuring from the top cutting edge at right angles to the guide bar.

The sharpening angle can be changed, depending on the application. Rule of thumb: the larger the sharpening angle, the higher the cutting performance when cutting non-frozen softwood. Reducing the sharpening angle when cutting frozen and / or hard wood contributes to a smoother saw blade and less vibration. However, sharpening angles greater than 35 ° and less than 25 ° should be avoided (except for rip chains where this angle is 10 °).

The rake angle, sharpening angle and upper blade angle change when sharpening. These angles have a decisive influence on the cutting performance of the chain. Be sure to observe the prescribed values.

A depth gauge is located on each cutting link in front of the tooth scapula. The difference in height between the top edge of the depth gauge and the front edge of the back of the tooth is defined as the distance of the depth gauge.

The depth of penetration of the upper blade into the wood (chip thickness) and thus productivity depends on the distance of the depth gauge. The distance of the depth gauge is set depending on the chain pitch and the type of execution. Normally, it should be 0.5-0.8 mm, more often 0.6 mm. High values ​​will lead to an increased tendency of the chainsaw to kickback, too much grip and chain vibration. Low values ​​lead to a drop in performance. Since the distance of the depth gauge decreases with each sharpening of the saw due to a decrease in the upper edge of the tooth, the depth gauge also needs to be filed periodically. after 5-10 chain sharpenings.

General rules for sharpening chainsaw chains

Chain sharpeners

The round file holder has lines that allow it to be positioned correctly in relation to the chain. The holder is positioned on the tooth to be sharpened in accordance with the orientation lines. In this case, the insert itself rests on the upper edge of the tooth and the depth gauge, and the file is located under the cutting edge.

The use of a holder ensures that the file will fit to the tooth at the correct height. There are different tool holders for different pitches of the saw chain. The correct choice of holder, combined with the correct file diameter, ensures that the file protrudes over the back of the tooth by 1/5 of its diameter. Use only special saw chain files.

Before sharpening the chainsaw chain, it is advisable to secure the bar. When sharpening, it is necessary, while maintaining the position of the holder and pressing the file to the sharpened edge, to make several (2-3) turning movements away from you. Do not try to press too hard on the file, the movements should be smooth and measured. Rotate the file regularly to avoid one-sided wear. All other teeth are sharpened in the same way. It is more convenient to first sharpen the teeth in one direction, then change the position and do the same with the teeth in the other direction.

See also  Carburetor Adjustment Chainsaw Stihl Ms 660 China

When sharpening all teeth, do the same number of strokes with the file at the same pressure. This will result in the same tooth length. All cutting teeth must be of the same length. Different tooth lengths cause uneven chain running and cracking. If the length of the teeth is not the same, all cutting teeth must be filed to the length of the shortest tooth.

After several sharpening of the cutting teeth, the depth gauge is ground. To do this, a template is superimposed on it so that the stopper falls into the slot, and the tip protruding from the slot is grinded with a flat file.

The principle of using another set for sharpening chainsaw chains does not differ from the first, although its design is different.

A round file is also used for sharpening the cutting tooth, and for sharpening the depth gauge. flat. A special template provides parameters for sharpening both cutting teeth and stops. In the first case, it is superimposed on the chain in such a way that it falls into its slots. The file, placed on the template and brought under the cutting edge, rests on the guide rollers. The direction of movement of the file must be parallel to the lateral edges of the template.

When sewing the stopper, the template is applied so that the stopper falls into the slot, near which it says SOFT (for soft wood) or HARD (for hard wood). As in the case of the first device, the file is seamed with smooth, even movements of the flat file away from you.

Chainsaw chain sharpening machines

Stihl produces two modifications of hand-held machine tools. stationary FG 2 and mobile FG 1, mounted directly on the tire. There are analogues of less well-known companies, comparable in price with the simpler devices described above.

The working part of these devices structurally resembles a bow saw, into which a round long file is inserted instead of a saw blade. FG 1 and FG 2 not only sharpen the chains, but also straighten them, adjusting the length of the top edge of all teeth to the same size. on the smallest tooth, which is taken as the control one. A rather complex configuration mechanism allows you to set all the necessary parameters. Sharpening is carried out in 2-3 movements, after which they proceed to the next tooth, keeping for it all the settings that were made for the control tooth. This ensures the same sharpening parameters for all teeth. When sewing the stopper, the round file changes to a flat file.

The electric chain sharpener for chainsaws is simple and convenient to use. It has an adjustment system that allows you to set the chain at the desired angle and bring the disc exactly to the sharpened edge. There are machines that automatically clamp the vice when lowering the disc onto the chain.

Correct sharpening of the chainsaw chain

How to understand that the rig is dull

During intensive sawing, the cutting segments of the chain become dull. And this happens not only when interacting with wood. For example, if a tire accidentally slides off a log and hits the ground, strong abrasion will damage the cutting edges. The evidence that chain sharpening is necessary is the deterioration in work productivity: the tire stops sinking into the wood, instead of large chips, small sawdust is flying. The user has to work harder to drive the saw into the wood. You can return the sharpness to the cutting segments yourself by sharpening them manually. This is not difficult if you know the features of the geometry of the saw blade and the nuances of sharpening.

It is important to know! It is not recommended to cut with a blunt chain. This will not only reduce productivity and require more effort from you, but will also increase fuel consumption, load on the engine and accelerate wear on the working parts of the tool.

The first part of the link is the cutting tooth. It has two edges. an upper and a lower (end blade). When entering the wood, he removes its layer in the same way as the blade of a planer does. The second part is the cutting depth gauge. It regulates the thickness of the wood chips. The upper edge of the cutting tooth is beveled at a specific angle relative to the line of motion of the saw blade. Such structural features dictate their own rules for processing each segment. They need their own approach.

Preparing the saw equipment

Recall that sharpening the chainsaw chain with your own hands is carried out without removing it from the tool. It is convenient enough to position the saw, securing the saw headset with a clamp on a hard surface. This saves you the hassle of holding the tool and also helps you sharpen more confidently. Remember, you will need protective gloves to keep your hands from being cut by the saw headset. To complete the work, you need a set consisting of a template, a round and a flat file. By working with a template, it will be possible to accurately position the file relative to the tooth and repeat the action on each of the cutting links. So, let’s talk about sharpening in order.

Cutting tooth processing

A round file is required for processing cutting edges. It is selected according to the diameter based on the parameters of the chain pitch. In order to properly position the sharpening tool, the following instructions must be observed:

  • in the vertical plane, its working part should be at an angle of 90 ° relative to the equipment;
  • in the horizontal plane. at an angle of 30 ° or 10 ° depending on the characteristics and characteristics of the chain.

To exactly comply with these requirements and repeat the same position on each link, a special template will help, which is installed on the tire and makes it possible to sharpen quickly and accurately. Templates of a special shape are offered for each saw model, so it is better to select branded products recommended by the manufacturer. Examples of such devices are shown in the figures below.

After placing the file with the round working part inside the chain link and positioning it using the template, begin to move it parallel to the edge. Keep the instrument in a horizontal position and do not use excessive force. Also, make sure that the top of the file does not protrude beyond the top of the tooth by more than 1/5 of its diameter.

Important! Move the file away from you only. Make sure that the number of strokes is the same on each of the teeth. Then, after sharpening, they will all have the same height. For convenience, first sharpen the segments of one direction, and then change the position of the saw head and process the teeth in the other direction.

Cutting the cut stop

The process is carried out using the same template, only with a different tool. You will need a file with a flat tip. The sharpening template has a small window for the kerf stop. Place the template on the saw attachment so that the stop protrudes from this slot. Then take a file and make several movements in the direction away from you. you need to grind off the tip of the segment protruding from the window.

How to sharpen a chainsaw chain

What do you need

Possible Causes of Spontaneous Saw Chain Break

If the chain on the chainsaw breaks, it is necessary to find out the cause of the malfunction, establish the expediency of repairing the damaged part or installing a new one.

Typical reasons for saw chain breaks are unfavorable external factors:

  • excessive tension;
  • wear of the guide bar or inconsistency of the shanks with the width of the working groove;
  • operation of the saw set with large constant loads;
  • overheating of the headset due to lack of lubrication;
  • inconsistency of the chain with the type of tire and configuration of the crown of the drive sprocket.

How to Replace a Chainsaw Chain

Features of home renovation

Many experienced users prefer to do their own chain repairs. The success of the work performed is determined by the presence of special skills and tools, knowledge of the structural features of models for various purposes.

In particular, dismantling and assembly of wear-resistant analogs does not create any difficulties. Only apply carbide to the cutting edges of the saw links. For connecting elements and rivets, standard metal is used for their production.

With more or less success, you can rivet a chainsaw chain at home, and if you have the right tool, even in the field. Please note that special care should be taken when using a self-refurbished headset. At the first opportunity, it is desirable to have a repaired connection in a hospital.

Repair standards and restrictions

Recommendations for fixing worn out rivets by electric welding do not take into account changes in the metal structure from even short-term high-temperature effects of the welding arc.

The grinders seized by welding or heated with an abrasive wheel, the connecting elements of the chain are less wear-resistant, which significantly affects their reliability.

  • The tight connection of adjacent links is accompanied by additional loads on the engine and the kinematics of the chainsaw.
  • The lack of a smooth run of the chain makes it difficult for the headset to enter the cut, the possibility of kickbacks and other traumatic moments is not excluded.
  • “Overtightened” and loose connections of the repaired chain are more susceptible to breakage at a sharp drop in loads.

The simplest machine for the repair of chainsaw chains justifies its cost by the ability to completely rivet the damaged chain in a short period of working time and restore its performance at a level of up to 90%.

Chinese-made chainsaw chains are essentially copies of European models, so the above repair recommendations are valid for the entire Chinese chain assortment.

Criteria for self-selection of a saw chain

In everyday life, the quality of removable sawing equipment from leading European brands is highly valued. Guide bars and chains of the Shtil and Husqvarna brands enjoy the unofficial status of reference products.

When purchasing a product, you must make sure that the model in terms of length, pitch and thickness of the shank meets the design standards of the chainsaw. The entire chain assortment is divided into five size groups ranging from 1/4 to ¾ inch.

Small-cube models of budget-class chainsaws are equipped with products with a smaller pitch, chains with an increased pitch and thickened shanks. a characteristic feature of the headsets of powerful and productive professional chainsaws.

The initial stage of repair and restoration work

All known methods for shortening a saw chain assume criteria for rejecting damaged cutting and connecting links, a sequence of working steps determined by the technology. Cutting and connecting links are assembled with factory rivets, which in all characteristics comply with the current standards.

The use of homemade components is not recommended in any case. Special rivets for chains are extremely rare on sale, therefore, in most cases, the problem is solved by installing the necessary parts removed from the dismantled section of the chain.

Post-repair restrictions

The problem is that a hastily repaired part contains one or more “weak links”. In this state, the operating time of the headset is significantly limited under heavy loads, increased requirements are imposed on the full operation of the lubrication system.

It is possible to use the restored chain in working mode, provided that the repair was carried out by an experienced riveter who has at his disposal a riveting machine and other special equipment.

Pro tips for preparing a new chain for use

Practice has proven the effectiveness of stabilizing the internal structure of the saw chain metal. Sufficiently prolonged heating of the product in an oil bath with a constant temperature of 60-70 ° C, eliminates internal stresses, contributes to the restoration of the crystal lattice of the metal.

The optimal heating time for the tool steel from which the cutting links are made can vary for 7-10 days or more.

How to increase the life of a chain without sharpening

Chain saws are kept in good condition and will only last reliably for a long time with careful maintenance:

  • you need to refuel chainsaws using a special oil, the concentration of which involves dilution with gasoline 92 or 95 in a ratio of 1:40 or 1:50;
  • before choosing a proportion, you need to carefully read the basic information on the label;
  • a limited amount of the fuel mixture must be diluted, and the unused volume must be disposed of;
  • it is important to periodically check the gap between the stop and the edge of the tooth, and the standard parameters should be approximately 0.7 mm;
  • it is important to alternate independent sharpening and machine sharpening with high-quality alignment of all corners;
  • periodically it is necessary to rearrange the tire 180 degrees, which minimizes the risk of curvature and one-sided abrasion;
  • the drive sprocket is systematically lubricated immediately before using the chain saw in work;
  • for lubrication, you can use standard oil, filled with gasoline into the tank, but the M8 brand has proven itself the best.

It is required to control the tension indicators: there should be no excessive tight tension or sagging. The chain must be flush with the busbar groove.

How to sharpen a chainsaw friendship

Question: Tell me, please, about the lubrication of the gearbox: the gearbox has a plastic cover on top with the inscription “friendship-4a electron” on three studs. is this the cover of the oil tank under the m8v? if yes, how to determine the oil level?

Apart from the large round cover (for lithol), the gearbox has no more holes except for the decorative cover with the inscription “friendship. altai”, which does not “fit” with the instructions. Tell me how to properly operate this node?

See also  Chainsaw Carburetor Adjustment Oleo-Mac

Answer: Usually the filler hole is also a control hole if there is no other hole. You put the saw on a flat surface, fill in oil, how it went back means the level.

Question: How to disassemble a CPG (piston group) on a Druzhba 4 chainsaw?

Answer: Disassembly of the connecting rod-piston group of the CPG of the chainsaw is carried out when replacing the piston, piston pin and crankshaft.

Disassemble in the following order:

Question: I use the Druzhba 4M Electron chainsaw for cutting thick logs. I remade the ignition long ago, worked like a clock for six years.

But now the second malfunction appeared, changed four carburetors the same thing. So, I start with a half turn, in a horizontal position it works, it works for itself, I just tilt it away from myself. no!

And that’s all. Look for a fifth carburetor or something else?

Answer: Your problem is not with the carburetor. On the saw, you need to replace the crankshaft oil seals and preferably the piston and everything will work again.

Question: There was a malfunction with the carburetor of the Druzhba 4 contact chainsaw.

Starts from 1-3 times, but as soon as the engine starts up, the revolutions jump and do not fall, sometimes you cannot even drown out. today I had to pull the high-voltage guy out of the mouthpiece so that she would shut up.

Answer: In the carburetor, you need to adjust the needle, if you have a problem, you need to lower it by one risk, the needle is attached with a crescent key.

The second problem. open the carburetor, adjust the valve / tongue along the ruler so that the protrusion on the tongue does not reach the 05 mm ruler.

In the carburetor, the rod with the needle goes along the guide and is round, can the rod be replaced? supplied from a different brand of carburetor. check it, check idle jet
stroke is at the bottom of the carburetor.

Screw it in until it stops and unscrew it one and a half turns, the needle needs to be adjusted.

Question: I start to cut straight, then shifts to the left in front of the tire and bites. What is this, a chain? The front is probably the sock, where the driven sprocket.

Sawing a thin log of 15 centimeters is not always smooth. And in a fat one, the tire wedges. There is no shock absorber, you need to sharpen the chain.

Answer: The five-tooth lamellar chain is structurally slightly different, if you look closely, we will see several teeth on the left, several teeth on the right.

The very first tooth is a scoring, behind it is a cut-off, after a cut-off, it is ejected, then again a cut but symmetrical.

All teeth are cutting, so the feed per tooth is less, and the load on the tooth is less, respectively, it wears out less and cuts faster, but not 2 times, but 20-45%, it all depends on the sharpening, namely the angle in the plan (if look from above).

If you cut birch wood, then the chain is sharpened with the same angle as the hook on the scoring tooth and the cutting tooth is sharpened with an angle of 5 degrees. more, the ejecting tooth performs the same function as the stop in front of the hook, with the only difference that it also cuts.

For sawing oak, the angle is increased by 3-5 degrees on all teeth, except for the throwing one, it has a plan angle of 0 g, it is updated only along the front surface through one sharpening.

Teeth in height scoring. detachable 0.4 mm, ejection below scoring by 0.9-1.5 mm mm.

If the lamellar chain is sharpened along the front corner with a radius circle of P-4 mm, the chain saws even better, you can grind off the ejection chain to a height difference of up to 2 mm, I usually sharpen old chains with a radius, this prolongs their life.

Question: help is required with the Druzhba-4 chainsaw, contact ignition. I changed all the seals, rewound the coil as described above, put the reel from the Muscovite, there is a spark, compression of 7 eyes, the crankshaft does not dangle, when you press the button, gasoline drips from the carburetor. it does not start.

I poured gasoline through the plug hole, put a new plug. it started up and died out, after which it didn’t start again. Tell me who knows what to do?

Answer: When adjusting the ignition. remove the engine, disconnect the volute, remove the flywheel, you need a puller, if anyone has a ratchet with an internal thread, you are in luck.

Ignition installation. before reaching TDC 4.4 mm, we scroll behind the centrifugal clutch, we bring the piston before reaching 4.4 mm to TDC, we look at the contact breaker, this will be the beginning of a rupture.

Then we adjust the ignition timing, they removed the muffler, under it there is a magneto mounting pin, there are 3 of them on the crankcase. everything is loosened on the hairpin and there are risks on the crankcase under the muffler (they are combined at the factory setting), we adjust it empirically.

We turn for the magneto studs to the left, to the right. this is the ignition advance early, later.

Question: How to properly disassemble the Druzhba Electron chainsaw gearbox?

Answer: Disassemble the gearbox in the following sequence:

Question: Maybe someone has dealt with the installation of electronic ignition on the Druzhba 4 chainsaw?

After the breakdown, I decided to repair it, replaced the crankshaft, piston, rings, cylinder and ignition, a complete upgrade. the ignition is set according to the marks as in the instructions, started up immediately and stood up abruptly.

After 2 evenings of study, I discovered that it cut off the key on the magneto, so the ignition is not correctly installed? installed a little later. it starts,

Removing Chainsaw Chain

works intermittently, stalls and again cuts the key. Already cut 3 pieces with ignition experiments. Has anyone installed?

Answer: The flywheel is not properly seated on the shaft. It should sit tightly on the cone. Most likely, the flywheels for landing are the same, but they have a different number of magnets 3 and 4.

And if the flywheel is wrong, then there will be no spark. And what cuts off the key, so most likely there is no cone (marriage) either on the crankshaft or on the flywheel.

Chainsaw Friendship 4 will not start in any way. How can you get out of the situation?

Put an imported spark plug, analogue A11 2. Fresh gasoline in a ratio of 15/1 with oil. Open the tap on the gas tank. Press the pump button on the carburetor (in the center of the diaphragm) and wait for the gasoline to flow. Pressing and holding the gas trigger, start by pulling the starter handle. If it does not start. Unscrew the plug and see if it is wet. if it is wet, then watch the spark. if not, then most likely the carburetor membrane is stuck. bulkhead or carburetor replacement.

And where is the ignition timing regulated on the Druzhba 4 Electron chainsaw? I did not find something. Should I buy or is the current weak anyway? If so, which one, imported?

No need to import, take a full-time domestic one. A10 or at worst A11, or better a couple. Electronic ignition is adjusted by displacing the disc in the magneto (there you will see for yourself, you need to loosen two screws).

On the Druzhba-4M chainsaw and two-stroke oil. The instructions say that only AC8, and 2T oil is not allowed. Who interferes with what gasoline and in what proportion?

Any 2t oil in a 1:15 ratio and everything is fine. Don’t believe the instructions. Where does it say that 2 tons of oil is not allowed? I have such an instruction, it is not there. Friendship is good because, due to low revs, it can consume any 2 tons of oil.

The problem is this: when the tire is immersed to its full width, then it gets jammed, I have to twist the log 3-4 times, I just saw it off, and it turns out that the top of the cut and the part that goes straight in front of me, and the bottom of the tire that is at the exit in front of the log, leads to the left, which is why the cut turns out to be an eight and the tire wedges. I took off the tire, I did not find any distortions, but the chain itself somehow skews from the bottom to the front to the left, I changed the chain, that one is also not new, about the same. Sawing without twisting a log can only be a thin one, slightly wider than the tire itself, and then the cut of the bottom leads to the left, if you yourself do not try to force it to the right. What is the malfunction?

Option one. the chain is not sharpened correctly, option two. uneven wear of the groove edges.

Tell me how to adjust the engine idle speed on the Druzhba 4 chainsaw Electron?

It is recommended to adjust the idle speed of the chainsaw motor in the following sequence: start the engine and warm it up at low and medium speeds. Set the screw to the minimum stable speed at which the saw chain does not move along the bar. If the engine emits a lot of smoke (a sign of an excessively rich mixture), then partially turn the carburetor screw. In this case, the engine speed will increase, and the smoke of the exhaust will decrease. After that, you should re-establish the minimum stable engine speed, partially unscrewing the screw. After this adjustment, you need to check the engine throttle response. To do this, sharply press the throttle control lever until it stops for 2-3 seconds. In this case, the chainsaw engine should quickly gain momentum. If the engine stops or has a “dip” of power, ie slowly picks up speed (lean mixture), then it is necessary to partially unscrew the carburetor screw. Check the engine again for throttle response. At the end of the adjustment, lock the screw with nuts.

Help me find the parameters of sharpening Soviet lamellar chains for a saw b / p Druzhba 4. My household machine does not sharpen these chains, only combined.

I may be wrong, I have not sharpened such chains for a long time, but it seems like this: the slope from the vertical on all teeth is 10 degrees, the angle of the outer teeth, I remember, is 30 degrees, from the axis or perpendicular. The angle of the middle teeth, like, 20. The angle of the internal (pushing) teeth is perpendicular to the axis of the chain. Sharpen only on the front edge, you cannot touch the top.

I have a Druzhba 4 contact chainsaw, judging by the inscription on the 65-year-old snail, well, the head and everything else can be seen fresh in the 85th year, but it looks like new). Yesterday, while starting up, the ratchets were licked, what on the starter, what on the saw itself, can you somehow restore it? And so it even started up and worked, so I sawed yesterday and after I drowned it out and again wanted to make such a trouble with the ratchets. Tell me what to do?

Cut off or licked? If they did it like this: Unscrew the engine ratchet, restore it a little with a file, then put something under the ratchet (there were even two rings of 2 mm copper wire), in general, it was necessary to pick it up and screw it back. it worked. It is not necessary to tighten too much, it will drag on itself. A washer was also placed in the starter. To unscrew the engine ratchet, you need to remove the upper cap
cylinder, insert something stiffer into the flywheel blades, they break off, and on the ratchet there is a turnkey cutout for 14. The saw carburetor does not need to be removed, it is better not to touch it at all, the clamp is weak, holds poorly, maybe on the move fall off. Disconnect the gearbox from the engine, block the crankshaft by inserting a suitable tool (screwdriver, driver, etc.) into the holes of the drive hub and resting on the crankcase lugs. On the other hand, unscrew the ratchet with an open-end wrench (there are flats for the key on the ratchet), you can not even remove the snail. The CPG is intact, the carburetor is in place. You will put washers under the turned ratchet, it is necessary to maintain the distance “A” between the ends of the ratchet teeth and the flange of the volute. 22.2-23.5 mm. This is very important, otherwise it will again tear off the teeth of the ratchets or break the crankcase cover with a jammed starter. Practice has shown that a restored ratchet does not serve for a long time, it still needs to be replaced in pairs. both on the flywheel and on the starter.

How to adjust the engine of a contact chainsaw Friendship 4 electron for maximum power?

This adjustment should be made after 25 hours of running the chainsaw in operation, and after adjusting the engine idle speed. The adjustment is carried out with the carburetor screw by depleting or enriching the combustible mixture in the operating mode of the engine. When screwing in the screw, the mixture becomes leaner, when unscrewing it becomes enriched. The most advantageous position of the carburetor screw is determined experimentally by checking the operation of the chainsaw when cutting wood.

In this case, the following requirements for the operation of the chainsaw should be followed: The saw engine must develop a power that provides high cutting performance with moderate smoke exhaust. The chainsaw motor must have good throttle response, must not overheat, slow down and stop when cutting wood (overheating of the engine is a sign of an excessively lean mixture or its overload).

See also  How to Adjust a Husqvarna Chainsaw Carburetor

Doing repairs to chainsaw Friendship 4 Electron. Went through it, everything works except for one thing: no lubricant is supplied to the chain. I unscrewed the cover on the gearbox and found the absence of the oil pump plunger (this is the name in the instructions). According to the gearbox diagram in the instructions, this plunger is inserted into the bushing and secured against falling out with a screw. I cannot understand what is the principle of pumping oil using this plunger, because it has a cylindrical shape and a gear at the end and apparently only constantly rotates around its axis? The oil supply channel in the gearbox is not clogged, I checked.

The screw not only fixes it from falling out, the fact is that the groove in which the screw rests is not strictly perpendicular to the plunger axis, it is slightly displaced, therefore, when the pump rotates, the plunger has a vertical-translational movement in the sleeve, so the oil moves along the channel.

I have a chainsaw w / p Friendship 2 of the old issue, there the carburetor is not the same (although it is written on it KMP-100A), as they describe. there is only one adjusting bolt from the bottom. How to regulate such a carburetor? how much to unscrew the screw initially? In general, the problem is this. I’m looking for some, having previously pumped up the fuel. Works fine. But after 20-30 seconds it stalls, especially if you keep running out of gas in the carburetor, and the new one does not leak. I pump it up, start it up. again the same thing. Of course, the carburetor, fuel line (with a sump) blew and cleaned. The diaphragm looks intact and in excellent condition. But no fuel is supplied to the carburetor. How to adjust the mechanism under the diaphragm? Or is it not his fault (he changed the gasket under the cylinder, I thought he was getting air. it doesn’t help, the piston cubes sawed off 10 cubes, no more. new).

Remove the carburetor cover. you put a ruler on the carburetor and the edge of the “rocker” must match.

I start my contact chainsaw Friendship 4M. For 3 minutes it runs at full speed. Then it shoots smoke from the carburetor and stalls. You will not start until it cools down, i.e. minutes 20. What to do? The damper is fully open. Carburetor soap in gasoline.

Clean everything related to gasoline and most likely the carburetor is not set correctly. The damper must be closed or slightly open.

And what could be the reason for the greater grinding of one edge of the saw chain?

First of all, this is long-term work with an incorrectly sharpened chain. with different sharpening angles, different lengths of the cutting links (and, accordingly, with different heights) or with different differences in the heights of the depth gauges and cutting links on the left and right sides of the chain. This group also includes a situation when, in the process of work, one side of the chain becomes blunt, for example, sand gets into cracks in wood or nails clinging. Another possible group of reasons is long-term operation of the chain with a weak tension and / or a worn groove of the bar in width, when the chain has the ability to “walk” during the sawing process. If the tire was clamped in the cut, deformed and careless straightening was performed, and the groove of the tire turned out to be significantly wider than the thickness of the driving links (chain shanks). It is also quite possible from old age, when the tire has worn out. In this case, in addition to different heights of the guide groove of the tire, a decrease in the depth of the groove can be observed (the chain shanks touch the bottom of the groove during movement), an increase in the width of the groove, uneven wear of the guides from the inside (the section of the groove of the tire from a rectangle turns into a trapezoid).

The saw b / p Friendship is working, but it develops momentum poorly. But when the gasoline in the carburetor runs out, it starts to work smoother and with speed is normal. Can the plate bend under the diaphragm to reduce the fuel level in the carburetor? how to properly adjust this level? The adjusting screw, no matter how much I twisted the result, either there is not enough fuel when working in load (it does not give out power) or it overflows at medium and low speeds. In the middle position, the candle is brown, it works normally under load, and there is no overflow at idle. Or you can clarify. by unscrewing the adjusting screw on the carburetor, I add or subtract fuel?

Unscrewing you add. Failure to tune the carburetor is a symptom of a faulty engine or malfunctioning carburetor. There are generally 2 adjusting screws. adjusting the fuel at idle and adjusting the fuel at maximum speed. The first one does not work well for some reason, but maybe it works for you, pay attention.

The saw chain is a series-connected links with special cutting teeth. This headset is designed to be mounted on a chain saw. At home, it is not difficult to sharpen the chain yourself and correctly, but you must adhere to certain rules, as well as use special devices that can be home-made or factory-made.

Machine tools and accessories

Currently, manual sharpening and high-quality sharpening on the machine are used. Both methods have certain advantages and some disadvantages:

  • The grinder is used for sharpening quite often, but it is important to control the sharpness of the chain, and lubricate the drive sprocket with machine oil. The tire is periodically rearranged in reverse to prevent one-sided abrasion. The advantages of the method include the absence of the need to remove the chain from the saw, and the ability to use the visual selection of the sharpening angle;
  • an automatic machine assumes sharpening in a chain based on several simple actions, including installing the saw into the machine, choosing the desired sharpening angle and turning on the saw motor at full power, as a result of which self-sharpening against the emery stone of the machine occurs;
  • the manual machine is quite simple to use. At the first stage, the screw clamping the chain is loosened, after which the angle suitable for sharpening is adjusted and the maximum degree of sharpening is determined based on a visual inspection of the most blunt tooth. After sharpening, blowing and processing with clean oil is carried out.

How to sharpen a chainsaw chain with a file

Step-by-step instructions for sharpening with your own hands with a file

A file or sharpener allows you to sharpen quickly and make the chain sharp enough to get the job done. The diameter of the round file is selected depending on the chain pitch and varies from 4 to 5.2 mm. Cutting tooth stops should be a flat file. Among other things, you need to fix a template or a piece that gives direction to the file on the turning section.

The headset sharpening technology is simple, but should be carried out according to the following recommendations:

  • strong fastening of the sharpened chain;
  • sharpening at a certain, unchanged angle with the projection of the file above the back of the tooth by one-fifth of the thickness;
  • the file should run smoothly and not strong, with idle running in the opposite direction;
  • to minimize wear on one side, the file should be periodically rotated;
  • the file is held at right angles to the vertical plane, and the horizontal angle varies within 10-30 °;
  • when grinding, you need to focus on the shortest tooth in the row.

The main disadvantage of such sharpening is significant time costs, but the disadvantage is leveled by the lack of the need to purchase expensive equipment and special tools.

Sharpening the chain: basic principles

Safety measures and recommendations

There are several rules for doing work with a chain saw safely and as efficiently as possible:

  • before assembling the chain tool and installing the chain, it is important to familiarize yourself with the operating rules in the instructions, noting all its features;
  • work with power saws is carried out in gloves and goggles;
  • work safety can be ensured by tight-fitting work clothes and reliable footwear;
  • work must be performed in a stable and safe position;
  • the material to be cut must also be located as securely and stably as possible.

The chain saw must be guided with both hands, constantly monitoring the process. Installation of a toothed stop on a log or bar is a guarantee of a high-quality saw cut. Ensure that the power cord is intact before using a power tool.

Tool chain teeth structure

If we consider the structure of the chain teeth using an example as a template for the “Friendship” chainsaw, then we can observe several important points:

  • teeth have a pair of edges: top and side;
  • the upper edge has an angular bevel in the direction of blade movement;
  • cutting links are represented by a base, a tooth blade and a penetration stop;
  • the scapula has a horizontal, angled blade and an end vertical blade;
  • the thickness of the chips is determined by the difference, which is represented by the upper boundary line and the front line on the back of the teeth;
  • under standard conditions, the indicators of the difference can be in the range of 0.5-0.8 mm, but the optimal parameter is 0.6 mm;
  • each subsequent sharpening reduces the distance due to a decrease in the size of the upper edges of the teeth;
  • control notches are made every six to eight sharpenings;
  • the upper edge angle of 50-60 ° and the clearance angle on the end blade are responsible for ensuring the cutting properties of the chain;
  • the front corner is formed by the edge of the end blade and can be of the order of 60-85 °.

Only a well-sharpened saw can ensure safe and highly productive work.

How does a carburetor work?

  • When the engine is started, the choke is opened in the carburetor.
  • The movement of the piston reduces the pressure in the air valve. This causes air to flow into the diffuser. The exact amount depends on the position of the air damper.
  • Fuel enters the float chamber. The jets regulate the speed at which this happens.
  • Gasoline and air mix with each other in the diffuser to form a fuel-air mixture. She goes to the cylinder. The mixture can be lean (a lot of air, little gasoline) or rich (little air, a lot of gasoline). The amount of the mixture entering the engine is directly proportional to its power and speed.

All processes occurring in the engine are not cyclical, but a constant basis.

How to set the maximum speed of the chainsaw?

To change the maximum revolutions, you need to interact with screw H. If you tighten the screw, the revolutions will become higher, and if you unscrew. lower. As a rule, the highest permissible engine speed ranges from 11500-15000 per minute. If you try to work with an even higher number, the ignition problem will begin. In this case, the screw is slightly unscrewed.

Carburetor device

A carburetor is a mechanism that is responsible for preparing a mixture of fuel and air, which is then fed into the engine cylinder. Most chainsaws have very similar carburetors, so they are set up in the same way.

The main structural details of the chainsaw carburetor:

  • Aluminium case. Aluminum is chosen as a material for its low weight. Chainsaws are a tool that must always be held in hand and carried, therefore, reducing the weight of the tool is a very important task facing the manufacturer.
  • Diffuser and air damper, which are located at the carburetor inlet.
  • Jets. valves that provide the dosage of fuel that is supplied to the carburetor.
  • Sprayer, which is responsible for injecting fuel into the chamber.
  • Fuel chamber.

Idle speed adjustment

First of all, you need to find the position in which the idle speed will be highest by turning screw L. When you find this position using the tachometer, you need to turn the low speed screw (L) a quarter (1/4) counterclockwise. The chainsaw chain can rotate during this process. If this happens, loosen the idle screw (T) counterclockwise until the chain stops moving completely.

Acceleration check

If you press the gas button of the chainsaw, the engine should increase the number of revolutions. This should happen quickly enough. If the tool is gaining speed slowly, loosen the screw L a little, no more than 1/8 of a turn.

When the adjustment is completed, you need to re-check the operation of the chainsaw at idle. the engine should work properly, and the chain should remain stationary. If the engine runs unstable or the chain moves, you need to repeat the adjustment, omitting the basic setting step.

How to properly adjust the chainsaw carburetor

The vast majority of gasoline saw carburetor models have three adjustment screws:

  • idle speed (T);
  • low speed (L);
  • high speed (N).

Setting the required parameters is done by rotating these screws.

Use an electronic tachometer to fine tune the carburetor. It will make it easy to determine the engine speed of the chainsaw.

Basic carburetor adjustment

Screws H and L must be turned clockwise as far as the stop and then turned 2 turns in the opposite direction. This is the standard procedure for setting up popular chainsaws for the first time. Other options are also possible.