Lawn mower stalling out. Lawn Mower Cuts Off When Put in Gear: How to Fix It

Lawn Mower Cuts Off When Put in Gear: How to Fix It

Every time my mower shuts off when it’s not supposed to, I shake my head in frustration. The issues with stalling mowers could come from so many different places that it can be annoying to sort out. Electrical systems, belts, wires, and various shorts can all cause your mower blades to stall.

One way to help rule out what exactly is causing your garden equipment to die unexpectedly is to pay attention to when the mower dies. If the engine stalls when I put the mower in gear, I have a better idea of where to check, like the seat safety switch. If it happens right after the engine engages, on the other hand, it could be a battery issue or be in need of a carburetor repair. Read on to discover the reasons your mower model shuts off and how to solve this common issue.

What Causes Lawnmowers to Shut Off?

Figuring out why your riding mower or self-propelling walk-behind mower is dying when put into gear can take a bit of patience and a fair amount of mechanical know-how. If you are lucky, a thorough cleaning may be all it takes to get your mower working perfectly again. Sometimes it takes a bit more work than that. Below is a quick guide to some of the common issues with starting lawnmowers.

Battery

Without a maintained and amply charged battery, it is hard to start your lawn mower. If the mower is able to start, it may not have the juice to make it very far, and when the gears are engaged, the engine may cut off. If the problem is the battery, then there are quite a few things you can do before you need to completely replace the power source.

The first thing you should do is clean any corrosion from the terminals and any residue near the connections. Once the area around the battery is clean, you can inspect that there is no damage to the battery box. If the engine still doesn’t respond correctly, you can attempt to use an external charger to top off the battery. If this still isn’t sufficient, you will need to replace the battery or continue troubleshooting the gear shut-off issues.

Wires

Between the time the engine turns over and when the mower is put into gear, a lot of electrical signals and mechanical responses occur in the wiring woven throughout the mower assembly. If any of these connections are unable to be completed, the mower will shut off, and you will not shift into gear successfully. Due to the sheer number of connections that need to be tested, it can be time-consuming to fix a wiring issue that is not easily identifiable.

The best way to inspect wiring is to work backward from the most likely wiring issue to the least likely and hope you hit correctly early on. Checking wires can be done visually, but if no damage is identified, you will want to use a voltage tester to see if any black wires are dead that shouldn’t be. Test electrical connections at junction boxes, not at the actual electrical component, to avoid damaging expensive electrical parts.

Speed Module

Riding mowers and self-propelled garden tools have a lot of horsepower to drive powerful blades and operate PTO equipment. That HP doesn’t translate to speed in forward motion keeping you safe with a governor or speed-advanced module, which ensures your mower moves at a slow speed ideal for cutting turf. Module failure of this key feature can cause a mower to die when put into gear.

In much the same way as low battery voltage, a malfunction speed module will let the engine begin but act up when the mower is put into gear. Sometimes it can also happen when switching to a higher gear or engaging the mower blades. Whenever it occurs, checking this component can help with mower reliability issues.

Belts

Drive belts in the garden tractor engage the forward movement of the machine and can cause problems when put into gear. If the belt is not connecting properly, then there is a real chance the engine will stall and the mower will shut off. To avoid this, always check belts when doing routine maintenance.

Drive belts wear down over time, and occasionally an incorrect belt can be installed, leading to drive engagement issues. In higher gears or at higher RPMs, the drive belt may slip and kill the engine immediately. This issue is usually easy to identify as you will not be able to continue until it is replaced or repaired.

Engine

Engine issues can be numerous and can stop your mower when the gears are engaged. Each stage of ignition has the potential to stall if there are engine problems. If there are problems with lubrication, air intake, or engine firing, then you can check the motor area and connections first.

If your engine has the power to start but cannot stay on when put into gear, then you should go through a quick troubleshooting process. Cleaning and replacing filters and fluid, and electrical conduits can give you a better idea of what is going wrong. Replacing spark plugs and other mechanical parts can ensure smooth operation and ease of gear changing in future mowing sessions.

Blades and Mower Gear

Dull, damaged, or restricted blades, as well as faulty or fritzy gear or mechanical mower parts, can stop your mower short. If your gear load seems too heavy for what you are trying to do in the yard, it can be a blade issue, and seizing cutting parts will kill the motor to protect the mower’s systems. If changing gears results in a sudden cut, then it could have to do with the gear change and clutch system.

Replacing damaged blades or sharpening dull blades can keep your mower strong enough to cut through thick turf and prevent turning off abruptly. If the blades are fine, you will want to make sure that none of the clutch or gear mechanical parts are damaged. If the mechanical pieces are operating correctly, then check the clutch electrical systems for shorts or a faulty clutch switch.

Valves and Lines

The tubes by which fuel and lubrications circulate through the engine and mower need to be maintained and inspected whenever mower troubles arise. Since the fuel and lubrication mostly take place in the engine area, it is a good idea to start your inspection there. Replace any damaged valves or lines that are obviously leaking fluid.

If the lines and valves are intact, you can examine the fluid to make sure it isn’t expired, especially in the fuel lines. Check that the flow of fuel is not impeded and that the fuel shutoff valve is open. If you will be storing a mower for several months with fuel inside, add extra fuel to top off the tank and mix in a fuel stabilizer.

Safety Switch

Riding mowers can be dangerous machines and come with a myriad of safety switches to help make sure operators, and those nearby are not at risk during normal operation. When there is a faulty safety switch, instead of making the mower more dangerous by not doing the job it was intended for, the mower will simply cut out until the problem is fixed. Finding the bad safety switch can be tough, however.

A mower will often have a PTO switch, key switch, brake switch, reverse switch, neutral switch, ignition switch, drive switch, lever switch, parking brake safety switch, grass box safety switch, and a seat safety switch. When it comes to mowers cutting off when put in gear, the most common culprit is a faulty seat switch. Even when you are in the seat ready to mow, the operator’s presence seat switch detects no rider and immediately kills the engine. Start your inspection there if your mower dies in a similar way to that described above.

How to Fix Mower Engine Shutoff?

Fixing issues with your mower dying when it is put in gear takes a bit of trial and error and a lot of troubleshooting. Once you figure it out, you will need to replace or repair the affected components and ensure that your mower is safe and ready to operate. Below are the steps to take to do a full mower diagnostic and hopefully fix the issue with the mower shut off when put in gear.

Clean the Mower Deck

A clean mower is much easier to inspect and repair than one covered in lawn debris. Clean the outside of the body, engine components, and the mower deck and blades to give yourself a clear picture of faulty components. Park the mower on your lawn to perform cleaning and then move it to a solid surface for a mechanical and electrical inspection.

Remove Spark Plugs

If you will be working anywhere where an abrupt mower start-up will cause injury or death, remove the spark plugs before continuing. Taking out the spark plugs when you are not safely testing specific components that need ignition can keep you safe. Inspect spark plugs and clean terminals and replace worn-down and non-responsive plugs. Store good plugs in a cool-dry location where they will be good to go when you need them next.

Check Manual Parts

All of the mechanical components, like belts, pulleys, hardware, and fixtures, can be examined and tightened or adjusted. Making sure that all the parts that move are lubricated, and the parts that shouldn’t move are secured can go a long way in making sure your mower runs at its best. Any parts that are obviously damaged or worn down should be replaced before using the equipment again.

Test Electrical Systems

Using voltage and circuit testers, examine any problematic electrical areas that need to be repaired or replaced. Mowers move haphazardly on uneven lawns, and wires can be pinched, damaged, or slip out of connections. When this happens, a short will stop your mower dead and may even spark internally. After a short, entire junctions and components may no longer work and need to be replaced. Test electrical systems at junction boxes and not at the system component to avoid shorting out expensive parts.

Inspect and Replace Damaged Components

Throughout your inspection, replace anything that seems old, wrong, or broken. If you properly maintain your mower, it will run well for much longer. Some parts will break down over time and need to be replaced. Neglecting repair of these systems can result in worse damage and safety issues in your mower down the line.

Tune-Up and Maintenance

When everything is tightened, cleaned, and running, well, you can top off and replace filters and other changeable parts. Cleaning fuel tanks and adding high-quality fluids can give your mower an extra boost and reduce pollution while increasing performance. Tightening loose bolts and attachments can prevent internal damage and costly repairs.

Put Together and Start-Up

If everything is repaired, replaced, and properly maintained, then you can put the mower back together and do final testing. Engine parts should be tight, blades sharp and secure, and all mechanical and electrical systems tested and confirmed working. Now is the time to replace your spark plugs, hook up your battery and start everything up. When you put your mower in gear, it should roll smoothly onto your lawn and be ready for an enjoyable turf trimming session.

Lawn Mower Runs for 30 minutes Then Dies (Why How to Fix)

Lawn mower trouble is the worst, especially when something goes wrong and there is no obvious fix. Whether you’re halfway through mowing or just starting to get your lawn cleaned up on the weekend, it sucks to run into a roadblock. If your lawn mower constantly dies after 30 minutes of use you’re bound to wonder what exactly caused it and how to go about fixing it. Though it might seem like a totally random problem, there are actually a couple of common reasons why this could happen.

Mower Cutting Out After 30 Minutes – Why? (The Short Answer)

If you’ve got a lawn mower that runs for 30 minutes then dies, the most common culprits are: a faulty spark plug or ignition coil, blocked fuel delivery, and air supply problems. A variety of parts are involved here, but the first things you’ll want to check out are the spark plug, carburetor, and fuel cap.

Possible Reasons Your Lawn Mower Runs for 30 minutes Then Dies

In most cases, where you’re getting about half an hour out of your engine at a time, you will probably have to consider more than one issue before you figure out what went wrong. To give you a better idea of what might be happening when your lawn mower cuts out after 30 minutes of mowing, I’ll dig into each of the most likely causes.

Spark Plug or Coil Malfunctions

A spark plug that isn’t producing a strong enough spark or an ignition coil that fails can leave you with a mower that won’t run for longer than 30 minutes. In this case, heat is actually what would cause both a spark plug and ignition coil to fail after about half an hour of use. As the engine warms up, so do all of the parts involved in its operation. All of this heating, cooling, and reheating takes a toll on spark plugs and ignition coils over time. When heated, these parts can expand just enough to disrupt the connection needed to create the spark.

Fuel Delivery is Blocked

Problems with fuel delivery aren’t always very straightforward because there are a number of components involved. With that being said, the carburetor is the most common source of trouble. With a pretty intricate set of parts, carburetors are known to be a headache at times. Whether one of the tiny holes on a jet is gummed up, or debris is floating around in the carburetor’s bowl, it doesn’t take much for the carburetor’s precise air and fuel mixture to get thrown off.

This debris can also cause problems in other fuel-carrying parts. The fuel filter and fuel tank are both parts that can fill up with debris over time. The reason why this can cause a situation where a lawn mower runs for 30 minutes then dies is because any debris may get stirred up from engine vibrations or from hitting bumps in your lawn and settle back down once stopped. When stirred up, these particles can make their way into places they shouldn’t be and stop fuel from flowing.

Air Supply Problems

Air is a crucial component when it comes to igniting fuel to turn an engine over. As air makes its way through your air filter and carburetor, there are a couple of things that can go wrong. The places where the correct air supply can be altered are the air filter, carburetor, and believe it or not, the fuel cap.

A blocked air filter can obviously prevent enough air from getting to the engine which could cause your engine to die. The carburetor, on the other hand, can restrict too much air and also let too much air in. Carburetors have an air screw that is supposed to be set to a certain amount (according to manufacturer specifications) that will allow the perfect amount of air to enter. If this is set wrong you’ll have some problems. Also, there is a gasket where the two halves of a carburetor connect that could be the source of an air leak.

Finally, most lawn mowers have a fuel cap with a one-way vent that allows air in while containing gas fumes. As the mower runs for 20 or 30 minutes, the fuel level will lower. If air isn’t allowed in, a vacuum will be created and gas will stop flowing through the carburetor. After the mower dies and sits for a while, air will find its way back into the tank and allow the problem to happen all over again.

How to Fix a Lawn Mower Won’t Run for Longer than Half an Hour

Now that you have a better idea of why exactly your mower dies after 30 minutes, let’s talk about the fixes. The exact reason why your mower might have this problem can vary and so can the approach you need to take to repair it. I’ll list the things you can do from the most common fix to the least.

Replace the Spark Plug or Coil

The first thing you’ll want to do is inspect your spark plug. Checking to see if it is dirty or cracked is a good first step, but you should also test it to see if it sparks. You just need a socket to remove the spark plug and a pair of insulated pliers to do this.

After removing the spark plug: reattach the spark plug boot, hold the spark plug with the insulated pliers, ground the tip of the spark plug (placing it against a metal part of the engine works well), and have a friend pull the starter rope. If the spark plug is in good condition, the plug should produce a strong spark. If nothing happens, your spark plug needs to be replaced.

After you get a new spark plug, repeat the testing process to make sure the coil isn’t the problem. If your new spark plug doesn’t spark, and you’re sure that you’ve tested it correctly, you’ll have to replace the ignition coil. This is a bit more complicated job that I would recommend going to a small engine mechanic for unless you’re very confident in your abilities.

Clean Fuel Filter and Carburetor

Some lawn mowers have a fuel filter connected to the fuel line that can be accessed, but some lawn mowers have filters inside the fuel tank which cannot be replaced. Check with your manufacturer about this if you aren’t sure where yours is.

If you can access it, replacing the fuel filter is very simple. You’ll just need to remove a couple of hose clamps, buy a new filter, and install it. I would recommend doing this first if possible because cleaning a carburetor is a bit more labor-intensive.

However, if the fuel filter doesn’t solve the problem, you should remove your carburetor and clean it. I like to buy a can of carb cleaner that has a small straw included so that I can direct a pressurized stream through all of the jets and hard-to-reach places.

If you disassemble your carburetor and notice that it is extremely dirty or has a ton of buildup, you should soak the entire thing in carb cleaner or consider replacing it. If you don’t have a lot of experience working on small engines, you might also save a good chunk of time by having your local mechanic take care of it for you.

Correct the Air Supply

Making sure that the air supply side of things is working as it should requires you to look in a few different places. I would start with your air filter. If you have any doubts about whether it is in good shape or not, just replace it. Filters are inexpensive and should be swapped out once every season anyways.

After taking a look at the air filter, the next place I would investigate is the fuel cap. A fuel cap that has been damaged or isn’t allowing air to enter the fuel tank is a really common cause for a lawn mower that runs for 30 minutes then dies. Make sure that the fuel cap is in good condition and has a vent that works properly.

Lastly, take a look at the carburetor. This is where all of the air mixing happens. Start by making sure that all of the carburetor gaskets are well fitted and not cracked. If they look good, check out the air screw. This screw is usually found on the bottom of the carburetor near where the gas enters it. To adjust the screw you will need to find out where it should be set according to the manufacturer. After figuring out the number of turns it needs, you can adjust it accordingly with a flat head screwdriver.

About Tom Greene

I’ve always had a keen interest in lawn care as long as I can remember. Friends used to call me the lawn mower guru (hence the site name), but I’m anything but. I just enjoy cutting my lawn and spending time outdoors. I also love the well-deserved doughnuts and coffee afterward!

Lawn Mower Won’t Stay Running: Why And How To Solve?

So, your lawn mower keeps dying on you. Well, just like anything with a motor, sometime your mower will have issues that cause it to stall and cut off. If you are having that issue with your mower, then you are in the right place.

In this article, we will look at the reasons why your mower won’t stay running and also give you the solutions for them. Keep reading to see all the possible reasons why your lawn mower is stalling.

Possible problems cause Lawn Mower Won’t Stay Running

Before going into an in-depth analysis of each issue, we will list out the potential problems below. That way if you have an idea of what the issue might be you can jump to that section first to save yourself some time. Do you check the lawn tractor battery first? It can be a problem.

The reasons why your mower might not stay running can fall into the following areas:

• The Fuel System
• The Carburetor
• The Ignition System
• The Cutting System

You will need to clean it out, so air can get thru. After doing that the problem should be resolved. If something else is dirty though and the gas cap is not the issue, then you will have to look farther.

Sticking with airflow, the next thing you can check is the air filter. This should be clean and not have debris or blockage. Also, if it has oil in it, then that is a problem too. If it does have a blockage or is dirty, then you will need to clean it out or replace it.

Air filters are not expensive, so it is a good idea to replace them with a clean one regularly or at least clean it out since it is easy to get too. If it is not the air filter that is dirty, then it might be the fuel lines that are dirty.

If that is the case, you will have to drain the fuel and then remove the lines. Remember to drain both the tank and the carburetor. When removing the lines inspect them and see if you see any build-up. If you do clean it off or replace the lines.

2/ The Carburetor

The issue may be in the carburetor itself though. It might be the thing that is dirty. If you are draining the fuel, then go ahead and take the time to check the carburetor. See if you can see any build up of gunk or deposits in it.

If you do be sure to clean it. Also, remove the fuel filter from the carburetor and see if it is dirty. If it is then clean or replace it as well. Same as the air filter, the fuel filter is pretty easy to get to and is cheap, so stay on top of replacing it and making sure it is clean. This will keep other parts of your mower running longer.

When cleaning the carburetor, it is essential to do it properly. You should use carburetor cleaner and spray it down thoroughly. Sometimes though even the cleaner won’t be able to get all the build up off. This is because fuel residue can be hard to remove.

If you can’t get the carburetor clean, then you can rebuild it with a kit from your mower manufacturer. Sometimes though it isn’t worth it to rebuild. This may be because you don’t have the time or the skills to do it.

If that is the case, then you can just buy a whole new carburetor and replace the old one. No matter if you are cleaning, rebuilding, or replacing the carburetor be sure to clean out the fuel lines as well.

3/ Ignition System

The next reasons why your mower might not stay running could come down to the ignition system. This is similar to the fuel system and could be lumped in there. The ignition system for our purposes is where the spark occurs to ignite the fuel and provide power to the mower.

The part of the ignition system that we are worried about is the spark plugs. Old wore out, and dirty spark plugs can lead to the engine dying. They may work good enough to start the mower, but then misfires might start to happen leading the mower to shut off. If you hear misfires, then checking the plugs should be one of the first things you do.

To make sure the plugs are good you first need to pull them from the engine. Next, you can visually look at the electrode. If it looks dirty, then you can try cleaning it with an emery board, but if the electrode is already too thin, then you will need to replace that plug.

Also, it is a good idea to replace all the plugs if you are replacing one, so you know that they are all good. The electrode might not be dirty though, but the problem could still be the spark plug. If the gap on the plug is too big or too small than that can be an issue too.

You will need to look up the specifications for your mower and the gap it should be and then use a gapping measure to measure the gap. If it is off, then you need to replace the plugs.

4/ The cutting system

The last area that can cause your mower to stall while mowing is in the cutting system. What we mean is if you are cutting thick or tall grass, then it might be bogging down the blades and causing the engine to stall.

If you can tell that the mower is having trouble cutting on the level you have it set too, then you will need to raise the deck. If raising the deck doesn’t help, or the grass isn’t that tall or thick, then the problem might be in the blades themselves or under the deck.

If the blades are dull, then they will not cut well, and that can lead to the mower stopping. You will need to get under the deck and remove the blades to sharpen them. Once they are sharp, that should solve the problem.

If your blades are sharp though, then they might be getting bogged down for another reason. That other reason is you could have a lot of grass built up under the deck. If that is the case, you will need to get under it and clean it out.

If you are sharpening the blades or cleaning the deck, then you should go ahead and do both things since you are already under there. It doesn’t take that long to remove the blades to sharpen them if you are already cleaning under the deck and it doesn’t take that long to clean under the deck if you are already sharpening the blades.

By doing both, it will save you time later and make sure you get the best cut possible.

Conclusion

So, after reading this, you now know all the possible reason why your mower won’t stay running and also the solutions for them. The issue could be in air flow or fuel flow. In either case, you will need to clean those systems out or check its battery.

It can also be due to bad ignition. If that is the case, you will need new spark plugs. Lastly, it might just be that the blades are dull, under the deck is dirty, or the grass is too thick and not be a mechanical issue at all. If it is from that, then you will need to sharpen the blades and clean under the deck or raise the deck.

Luckily most of the reasons why your mower is stalling are easy fixes if you know what to check, and now that you have read this you do, so you are well on your way to fix your mower that is dying and not has to worry about the engine stopping in the middle of cutting again.

Lawn Mower Won’t Stay Running | Try This

If your lawnmower won’t stay running, don’t stress — there’s likely a simple at-home solution.

This article covers common causes for why a lawn mower won’t continue to run, quick fixes, and when to contact a professional.

Lawn Mower Won’t Stay Running?

Does your lawnmower start only to sputter and fail? It might be stalling for one of the following reasons:

• Air filter that is clogged
• Old fuel in the tank
• Dirty carburetor
• Faulty or unclean spark plug

Luckily, you can often troubleshoot these issues from the comfort of your own yard.

How to Keep Your Lawn Mower Running

Follow the steps below to find the root cause of your sputtering lawnmower.

Replace Air Filter

Dirty air filters are common culprits of stalling lawnmowers. Filters clogged with dirt and debris restrict airflow to the engine. Without a proper air-to-fuel ratio, the engine cannot run.

Fortunately, air filter replacement is a painless task:

• Locate the filter. Most filters sit atop or beside the engine in a black casing.
• Unscrew and open the filter casing. Remove the filter and wipe dirt from the housing.
• Slide in the new filter and resecure the cover.

If your lawnmower still doesn’t stay on, contemplate when you last used it. It might require fresh fuel!

Drain and Refill Fuel

We’ve all neglected our lawn — especially when snow covers the ground. Unfortunately, winter condensation pollutes fuel sitting in your unused mower. Add a fuel stabilizer before storing the machine to prevent issues.

If your mower sits without a fuel stabilizer, the gas evaporates into a sticky residue. Once you run the lawnmower, gummy debris clogs important components such as the carburetor.

Simply adding fresh fuel doesn’t fix the problem. Instead, empty or siphon out all the gas, then replace the fuel filter. Once that’s done, fill the tank with fresh fuel. The carburetor will require your attention next.

Clean the Carburetor

A dirty carburetor is the most common reason a lawn mower won’t continue running. Carburetors regulate the air and fuel mixture that creates internal combustion and powers the engine.

If the component is dirty, your lawnmower will display the following symptoms:

• Struggles to start
• Spits out black smoke
• Consumes more fuel than usual
• Runs rugged

Luckily, cleaning the carburetor can be done in eight simple steps.

• Locate the element by unscrewing the engine casing and removing the air filter. Depending on the model of your mower, it will sit behind or beneath the filter. Once you remove the filter, you’ll find the carburetor atop or beside the engine.
• Now that the carburetor is accessible, unbolt it from the engine. Place a rag or cup under the component because it will leak fuel.
• Remove the bowl (bottom of the carburetor) by unscrewing the bolt and holding it in place. The bowl holds fuel, so reposition your rag or jar beneath it.
• Once disassembled, evaluate the carburetor’s bolt. Notice it has a jet and small holes that act as air intake valves. Together, they deliver fuel to the throttle, so it’s crucial they’re unobstructed.
• Cover the bolt with cleaner, then clear the intake valves with a small wire.
• Remove the rubber ring sitting between the bowl and the carburetor body. Detach the float by removing the small pin holding it in place. You might need pliers to pull out the pin.
• Now that you dismantled the element, spray it with your cleaner. Clean all the holes with your small wire.
• Reassemble your mower and test its operation.

If you thoroughly cleaned the carburetor but your mower still stalls, inspect the spark plug.

Clean or Change the Spark Plug

Spark plugs ignite the air and fuel mixture that combusts and energizes the engine. If your mower’s spark plugs are dirty or faulty, the engine will fail.

Common signs include engine misfiring, difficulty starting, and increased gas consumption. First, you’ll need to determine if the component requires cleaning or replacement.

How to Diagnose a Bad Spark Plug

• Locate and disconnect the spark plug lead. It usually is a black cable plugged into the front of the lawnmower.
• Once disconnected, wipe away any debris surrounding the plug.
• Remove the spark plug with a spark plug socket. Evaluate the plug for stubborn residue, burnt electrodes, a significant gap, or fractured ceramic. These signs equal replacement.

How to Replace a Spark Plug

• Determine the type of spark plug you need. The model number will be in your owner’s manual or on the plug’s ceramic.
• Once you find a new plug, adjust its gap with a spark plug gauge. Slide the gauge between the electrodes until it’s snug. If necessary, adjust the gap with the small hole at the top of your gauge. Simply pull the curved electrode down or up.
• Position the element in your mower. Turn it clockwise with your hand until the threads catch. Finish tightening the plug with a socket wrench. Avoid over-tightening, as the element is fragile.
• Reconnect the spark plug lead and test its performance.

Things to Consider

Keep these safety tips in mind when completing the above repairs.

• Turn off the engine and unplug the spark plug. Without a spark plug, the mower has no chance of starting.
• Don’t work near flammable items because gas and oil might leak during troubleshooting.
• Don’t work in confined spaces (i.e., closed garage or shed). Fuel-operated machinery emits harmful fumes.

Frequently Asked Questions

Can You Clean a Carburetor Without Removing It?

The short answer is yes. However, leaving the carburetor on the engine won’t thoroughly clear restrictions. Some sources recommend turning the engine on as you spray carb cleaner through the element. This tactic is dangerous and does not guarantee cleanliness.

Checking the carburetor for blockages requires disassembling it. Cleaning the carburetor without removing it is a partial clean and best after every use. Still, a thorough clean is necessary to adequately maintain the machine.

Why Does My Mower Die When it Gets Hot?

Vapor lock is the most common cause of an overheated lawnmower. Vapor lock is when hot fuel gets trapped in the tank. Instead of entering the carburetor, fuel evaporates.

Without fuel, the carburetor cannot facilitate internal combustion, so the engine stops. A broken or dirty gas tank cap is usually the cause of vapor lock.

When to Call a Pro

If the above suggestions don’t keep your mower running, consider calling the pros. Your machine might have a damaged element that is difficult to identify and restore alone.

Remember that working on fuel-operated machinery is extremely dangerous. Contact a professional if you are not comfortable or lack mechanical aptitude. A trained technician will keep you and your lawnmower in good shape.

You can even set up regular maintenance with a professional. They will complete the following for you as frequently as your model requires:

• Oil change
• Air and fuel filter replacement
• Spark plug installation
• Belt inspections
• Blade sharpens or swaps

How to Fix a Lawn Mower That Won’t Continue Running

If your lawnmower won’t stay operating, check your air filter, fuel quality, carburetor, and spark plug.

If you addressed these issues with no results, we suggest leaving it to the pros. A trained eye will save you time and prevent further damage.