Making knives from a saw with your own hands

Working tools and materials

In the production of sawing tools, factory hardening is used. Making a knife from a saw is fraught with a laborious process, the workpiece is difficult to process due to the redness of the metal.

The efforts spent on manufacturing the product will more than pay off in the end result. You will need a tool used in the manufacture of knives:

Making a Filleting knife

  • electric drill, with a set of drills of various diameters;
  • grinding machine (the presence of one will simplify the work);
  • Angle grinder “Bulgarian”, circles for different purposes;
  • files of various grain sizes;
  • ruler, pencil, paper, marker;
  • vice, hammer and sandpaper with various grains;
  • container with water.

You may need a welding machine to weld on the shank. It is necessary to unambiguously determine the type of handle. invoice or mounted. Both types are easier to make from wood. Let’s dwell on the first option. Required materials:

  • a piece or a whole saw;
  • wood bars, epoxy glue;
  • a rod of copper, tin, brass or bronze;
  • tools for working with wood: core, chisel, etc.

It absolutely does not matter in what condition the saw blade is mined. The final product will not be affected.

The Saw Blade Knife – How to Make a Knife from a Saw blade

Cutting and primary processing of the workpiece

The initial stage of making a blade from a hacksaw blade, similarly from other materials, is a preliminary sketch. You need to have an idea of ​​what the result will be. The markup will help to cut the blank of the required shape:

  • right angles should be avoided, marking the layout is required with a small margin of 1.5. 2.5 mm;
  • it is necessary to know the future purpose of the blade, the shape of the sketch directly depends on the role of using the product;
  • along the way, it is worth remembering the laws of making edged weapons.

After finishing making the layout, you should transfer it to the saw blank. It is necessary to outline with a sharp object, a marker is used when absolutely necessary. Seeing the contours of the sketch is the main task.

making, knives, hands

Blank for making a knife from a saw.

Having fastened the workpiece in a vice, the future blade is cut along the contour. The part must not be overheated, it is necessary to water it with water, excessive heating of the steel will lead to the fragility of the product. It is permissible to expose small areas to high temperatures, the margin for marking was made for a reason. It is better to remove them on a grinder.

It is permissible to make a rough revision with files. Having removed the burrs, it is worth starting to make the handle. There is no need to harden the blade, factory heat is enough.

Making a pen

The previously made decision on the overhead method of attaching the handle gives the full right to use a drill. A drilling machine is a luxury, with such a “miracle”, it is not shameful to resort to its help:

  • In accordance with the sketch, there is a need to make two or three holes in the shank. Depends on the length of the handle.
  • Split the prepared block of wood strictly in half.
  • Having made the fitting of wooden blanks to the shank, sand them to a tight abutment. In one of them, you should cut a notch for the shank.
  • By perfectly fitting the parts, holes are made in the wooden lining.
  • Rivets are cut from a copper bar. Final fitting and pre-assembly.
  • Wooden blanks in rough, adjusted to the anatomy of the owner’s palm.
  • Final sanding of the handle, making a brass bolster.
  • Assembling parts of the handle with coating the shank and linings with epoxy glue.
  • Driving in copper rivets. Drying the product.

Knife handles.

One day is enough for the glue to dry. On a grinding machine, adjust the handle completely. Sand with fine grit sandpaper.

Making a knife from a saw with your own hands

Looking at the finished blade, the layman will think. what’s so difficult? Sawed off, sanded, sharpened and attached a handle. Not.

Making a knife is a whole science, gradually often turning into art. A self-made blade has multiple positive qualities:

The ability to use the tool is useful for a beginner. Following the instructions, the blade will turn out unambiguously. And the quality depends on the directness of the manufacturer’s hands.

DIY saw knife.

How to make a knife from a saw with your own hands at home

The imagination of people has no limit. “Knife-lovers” are a separate caste of humanity, capable of making a blade from all kinds of materials on the planet. Our resource contains several options for hand-made knives, using various materials. Let’s add another interesting way. making a blade from a hacksaw blade.

Homemade saw knives.

  • Working tools and materials
  • Making a knife from a saw with your own hands
  • Cutting and primary processing of the workpiece
  • Making a pen
  • Slopes and sharpening

Slopes and sharpening

The crucial moment is the manufacture of descents on the blade. Make them symmetrical. The slopes determine the further sharpening of the knife. The cutting edge (RK) is directly dependent on them. A good helper at this moment will be a special device, which is described in the link just above. And the ability to use angle grinders to withdraw descents.

the blade is sharpened according to the necessary needs. The RK sharpening angle depends on the purpose of the knife. There are plenty of ways to display the correct RK.

Materials and tools

To make a homemade knife, you need the following equipment:

The graph of the dependence of the thickness of the knife on the hardness of steel.

Making a Machete from an Old Rusty Saw

  • Woodworking Machine. If not, you can use an electric jigsaw to pre-cut the handle. For final grinding, sandpaper of different grain size is used.
  • Nails or better copper wire for rivets.
  • Wood.
  • Grinding and sharpening machine. In his absence, you can use a grinder, a hammer drill, a high-power drill. In addition, you need nozzles or circles with which you can do these operations. One of these tools should be rigidly secured and then work done.
  • Files with various types of cuts.
  • Marker.
  • Brass plate and rod if the handle will not be riveted.
  • Epoxy adhesive.

Knives should have a comfortable handle. For her, the most suitable material is wood. Most often, birch and oak blocks are used. These rocks are the hardest, less susceptible to moisture with prolonged use. They are pleasant to the touch and have a beautiful texture. Since the manufacture of the knife handle does not require a large amount of starting material, for these purposes you can use 1 parquet board, a piece of board or bar

It is important that the piece of wood is not damaged, cracked and free of chips or other defects.

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After the blade is sufficiently hardened, you need to cool it.

In order to make a knife, it is necessary to use certain grades of steel. It should be remembered that its characteristics depend on how the metal was hardened technologically. For example, with an increase in hardness, the fragility of metal products increases. Steel grades P6M5 or P3M3F2 are suitable for the knife. In this case, a metal thickness of 2 mm will be enough.

The strength of a homemade knife does not depend on the thickness of the metal. It is influenced by its geometric dimensions: length, width, shape of the blade and escapement. With the right choice of these components and careful metalworking, an excellent knife is guaranteed. These steel grades are used in the production of discs, blades, tools such as circular saws.

Cutting and primary processing of the workpiece

The initial stage of making a blade from a hacksaw blade, similarly from other materials, is a preliminary sketch. You need to have an idea of ​​what the result will be. The markup will help to cut the blank of the required shape:

  • right angles should be avoided; it is required to mark the layout with a small margin of 1.5. 2.5 mm;
  • it is necessary to know the future purpose of the blade, the shape of the sketch directly depends on the role of using the product;
  • along the way, it is worth remembering the laws of making edged weapons.

On our resource, the legislative aspect regarding the wearing of knives is considered separately. After finishing making the layout, you should transfer it to the saw blank. It is necessary to outline with a sharp object, a marker is used when absolutely necessary. Seeing the outline of a sketch is the main task.

Blank for making a knife from a saw.

Having fastened the workpiece in a vice, the future blade is cut along the contour. The part must not be overheated, it is necessary to water it with water, excessive heating of the steel will lead to the fragility of the product. It is permissible to expose small areas to high temperatures, the margin for marking was made for a reason. It is better to remove them on a grinder.

It is permissible to make a rough revision with files. Having removed the burrs, it is worth starting to make the handle. There is no need to harden the blade, factory heat is enough.

Hardening

Heat treatment will give the knife the necessary hardness, it will not dull during operation.

For hardening, the knife from the saw must be heated to a temperature of 750-920 degrees. If this temperature is not reached, then the steel will not be hardened, and if it is heated too much, then the blade will be unnecessarily brittle.

At home, it is not possible to determine the exact temperature. However, there is a way out. A simple magnet is suitable for temperature control. As soon as the blank for the blade stops magnetically, it is heated to the required temperature.

After the temperature of the workpiece has reached the required limits, it must be kept in this state for about 1-1.5 minutes for each 1 mm of thickness. In the case of a homemade saw blade, the holding time for hardening is 3-5 minutes. It would be enough. Then the workpiece is dipped into vegetable or machine oil preheated to 50 degrees

This procedure should be followed carefully. Oil vapors can flare up from a hot workpiece, so have a fire extinguisher handy

A little about the hardening furnace. If it is not possible to use industrial equipment, then the forge can be made by hand. To do this, it is necessary to make a fire of such a size that it is possible to evenly warm the workpiece. Further, as the wood burns out and coals appear, a homemade knife is placed on them. A household hairdryer or a mattress pump can be used as bellows.

Making knives at home

Making a homemade scabbard at home includes the steps:

  • making a piece of paper (you need to put a blade wrapped with tape on it, add 1.5 cm from each edge and circle);
  • creating patterns from leather or dense fabric (the pattern is circled 2 times in a mirror image);
  • cutting out of the material 2 side inserts 1.5 cm wide and a T-shaped part, which will then become a fastener;
  • processing the edges of the cross element with wax, grinding on the felt wheel of the machine;
  • stitching with a nylon thread of a T-shaped part and one of the main patterns;
  • gluing the inserts of this part of the scabbard;
  • fixing the second half of the pattern with glue to them;
  • turning the edges of the workpiece on a grinding machine;
  • stitching glued parts;
  • polishing the surface of the scabbard, smearing with cream, if it is leather;
  • making holes at the ends of the fastener to secure the button parts.

Watch the video on how the knife is made:

Making a knife from a saw with your own hands

Looking at the finished blade, the layman will think. what’s so difficult? Sawed off, sanded, sharpened and attached a handle. Not. Making a knife is a whole science, gradually often turning into art. A self-made blade has multiple positive qualities:

  • the handle is easy to make under the palm of the owner of the product;
  • there is no need to worry about the quality of the workpiece and the final product;
  • to give uniqueness to the product is not difficult.

DIY saw knife.

How to make a knife from a saw for metal

How to make a knife handle

The easiest way is to glue the handle from two cut and prepared pieces of wood or plexiglass. It is much easier to make it than to attach it to the tail of a knife. Naturally, you can choose an unpretentious option and wrap the handle with electrical tape, but why try so much to end up ruining the aesthetic appearance of the knife?

And here comes the most crucial stage of work. Since you will have to drill in the shank of the knife, the blade can easily burst. So be alert and careful.

Steel is a hard but brittle material. With an even distribution of pressure when the saw is in operation, it is almost impossible to break it. But with spot drilling, the pressure increases and the metal can crack easily. Therefore, it is better to drill a hole at low machine speeds and do not forget to add oil to the drilling site. In this case, a screwdriver is an ideal tool for achieving the goal, since it has less revolutions, then the possibility of part breakage is not so high.

After completing the previous step and making holes in the handle, drill the same holes in the halves of the handle. Make a copper or aluminum rivet. For insurance, you can glue the area where the rivet will be located with glue, but it is better if you have epoxy.

Making a pen

The previously made decision on the overhead method of attaching the handle gives the full right to use a drill. A drilling machine is a luxury, with such a “miracle”, it is not shameful to resort to its help:

  • In accordance with the sketch, there is a need to make two or three holes in the shank. Depends on the length of the handle.
  • Split the prepared block of wood strictly in half.
  • Having made the fitting of wooden blanks to the shank, sand them to a tight abutment. In one of them, you should cut a notch for the shank.
  • By perfectly fitting the parts, holes are made in the wooden lining.
  • Rivets are cut from a copper bar. Final fitting and pre-assembly.
  • Wooden blanks in rough, adjusted to the anatomy of the owner’s palm.
  • Final sanding of the handle, making a brass bolster.
  • Assembling parts of the handle with coating the shank and linings with epoxy glue.
  • Driving in copper rivets. Drying the product.
READ  Making band saws for wood

Knife handles.

One day is enough for the glue to dry. On a grinding machine, adjust the handle completely. Sand with fine grit sandpaper.

Grinding and varnishing the knife handle

Finish sanding is done with sandpaper. By gradually increasing the grain, it is necessary to remove all coarse risks from the paper with a larger grain. It is enough to complete the process of grinding the knife handle with 600-grit paper. The last step in the manufacture of the handle will be its impregnation.

There are several ways to impregnate the handle to better preserve it. It is oil impregnation, wax impregnation or varnish coating.

Each method has its own advantages and disadvantages. So, for example, wax must first be melted by heating it, and heating has a detrimental effect on the strength of the glue with which the handle is glued. The oils need to be renewed periodically. And the varnish is only a surface protection function.

Drilling the shank

The handle on the shank can be fixed with rivets or glue. The most reliable way to attach the handle is to use rivets. To install them, it is necessary to make holes in the shank. The holes are marked on the shank so that they are approximately in the middle of the future handle. To prevent the drill from slipping at the initial stage of drilling, the holes are punched.

Since the circular saw is made of alloy tool steel, it will not be easy to drill through. Conventional metal drills won’t last long here.

Drilling should be done with cobalt drills or a ceramic drill with a victorious tip.

During the drilling process, it is important to add oil to the drilling area and prevent the drill from overheating.

Drilling through hardened steel is a difficult task. Therefore, it is possible to make holes in the shank electrochemically. To do this, a wire is attached to the workpiece, then the shank is completely covered with bituminous mastic or plasticine. In places of future holes, the protective layer is scratched to bare metal. Next, a saturated solution of sodium chloride is prepared, into which the blade shank with a wire and an unnecessary metal plate, also with a wire, are lowered. Both wires connect to the battery or car charger. A “plus” is fed to the future knife from a circular saw, a “minus” is fed to the plate. The etching process is accompanied by gas evolution. After 30-50 minutes, the holes will be ready.

Finished blade

Thus, a finished blade with a given sharpening angle is obtained. But at this stage, the blade is only conditionally ready. It does not have the necessary hardening in order to confidently hold the sharpening. It also did not go through a tempering procedure to reduce fragility. In fact, this is a semi-finished knife from a saw, which can already be used, but it is better to take a few more steps.

Vacation

After hardening, the blade must be released. This procedure is performed in order to reduce brittleness, as well as impart high elasticity to the saw blade. For tempering, the blade is cleaned with emery paper from the scale formed during the hardening process, and placed in an ordinary oven preheated to 190 degrees. There the blade is kept for an hour, then the oven heating is turned off.

The knife should cool down smoothly to room temperature.

After this procedure, the workpiece has the required hardness and elasticity.

Leaving the blade in the oven

Cutting and primary processing of the workpiece

Sawing the workpiece is fastest with a grinder with a thin cutting disc for metal. If it is not possible to use a grinder, then you can use a hand hacksaw for metal. It is important to place the file correctly in the hacksaw. The saw teeth should be directed forward and the hacksaw should cut when moving “away from you”.

Cutting and preparing the workpiece

First, using straight cuts, the approximate shape of the knife is cut. Then the folds are cut out. It is easiest to cut them out with several oblique cuts, converging at one point. It is important to leave an allowance of 2-3 millimeters before the drawn outline. This is due to the fact that when using a grinder, the metal at the cutting site overheats. Grinding off 2–3 mm with a file and emery paper can remove the overheated edge of the metal.

Creating a mock knife

The first step is to create a model of the future knife from a saw. At this stage of work, you can decide on the shape of the blade of the future blade and the shape of the handle. The layout is best made of thick cardboard or thin plywood. You can also use thick plastic. A rigid template will allow you to understand how a knife from a circular saw will lie in your hand and how convenient it will be to use it.

When making a layout, it is important to adhere to the following rules:

  • Right angles must be avoided. The right angle is the place of stress concentration. The blade of the knife most often breaks or cracks in this place.
  • The shape of the blade must be chosen based on the purpose of the future knife. The most versatile forms are with straight or descending butt. Such a blade can cut and stab equally well.
  • The dimensions of the layout must correspond to the size of the saw blade.

When making a model, it should also be remembered that a knife can be classified as a cold weapon. It all depends on the shape and size. The manufacture and storage of edged weapons is criminally punishable. Therefore, in order not to fall under the article of the criminal code, it is necessary to create a layout corresponding to the following rules:

  • The length of the blade or cutting part should not exceed 9 centimeters. Exceeding this length even by 1 mm will allow the homemade blade to be classified as a melee weapon.
  • A knife with a blade thickness of more than 2.6 mm is also a melee weapon. This parameter can be neglected, since the thickness of the saw blade is usually 2 mm.
  • Hardness should not exceed 42 units. This parameter refers to hardening, so we also skip it at the stage of making a piece.
  • The handle should have a limiter protruding no more than half a centimeter beyond its limits. If there is no stop, the sub-finger groove should be less than 4 mm deep.

After the layout, which satisfies the letter of the law and personal preferences, is drawn, you can proceed to transfer the layout to the saw blade. The mold is applied to the saw blade and outlined with a marker. It is best to use a fine marker. A thin line will allow you to more accurately cut the workpiece and avoid unnecessary processing of the workpiece with a file.

Forming the upper part of the handle

The upper part of the handle is prepared in advance for the reason that after gluing the handle to the shank, the processing of the upper part will be difficult. Also, during processing, you can scratch the blade, which is highly undesirable. Holes for rivets are drilled according to the markings made during the preparation process. A bar of a suitable diameter is inserted into them. It allows you to rigidly connect both parts of the workpiece and will not allow them to move during processing.

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Finished knife handle

Formation takes place with files and sandpaper. At this stage, it is important to remember about the permissible dimensions of the limiter, sub-finger groove.

Final processing is carried out with 800 grit sandpaper. Before gluing all parts must be thoroughly degreased. This can be done with acetone or solvent. After the degreaser has dried, glue or epoxy can be applied.

Shaping the handle

After the glue has dried, they begin to process the handle. First, using a file, the protruding parts of the rivet are grinded. Then, with a rough rasp, the wood blank is shaped. First, the profile of the knife handle is formed. Grind the wood until the shank metal appears. Then they grind down the sharp corners and give the handle a shape that fits well in the hand.

How to make a knife from a mechsaw with your own hands

The thickness of the fur saw is usually 2-2.5 mm, unless you find another option. This is enough to complete all knife tasks. They are light in hand, keep sharpening for a long time and will be completely legal.

With a long one, just do not lose. And for the rest of the qualities, the knife will not fall under the article on melee weapons.

DIY mechsaw knife.

Making a knife

This process can be roughly divided into several stages. For a detailed and understandable description, we will do this:

  • Of course, the first step is the layout drawing. If experience is not enough, do not disdain this moment, it is really important. Measure the “saw” workpiece itself, the model should not protrude beyond the edges, and do not forget about the shank and the handle. All these points must be taken into account initially.
  • Use a black marker to transfer the sketch onto the saw piece. We clamp it in a vice and cut off a piece of the desired length with the help of an angle grinder. At the same stage, cut out the shank so that you do not return to the vice and the “grinder” anymore. After rough work, “remove” all burrs with a file.
  • Special attention is paid to future descents. This process is the most important and must be taken seriously. We take almost the “blade” and paint over it with a black marker, then use a caliper for marking. We measure the slopes in accordance with the layout. Then carefully and, most importantly, symmetrically draw a strip along the blade, using a caliper. A scratched strip should appear on the black paint. We do the same on the other side. Be sure to circle the markings with a silver marker, preferably with aluminum powder.
  • To remove the descents it is best to use a special device, in more detail in the article: “How to make descents on a knife”. It will be much faster and, most importantly, more accurate. And now about a marker with aluminum dust, when working on a grinding machine, the workpiece will warm up. A simple one will simply “burn out”, namely the one described above, on the contrary, will freeze and will not fall off. Thanks to this little trick, the descents are perfect. The belt on the grinder is not needed for making slopes with very fine grains, P80 and P120 are enough. You can bring to the ideal even later, but this is a rough version.
  • Start making descents from the handle, after removing one side, we do the same on the other. After making sure everything is in order, you can walk in a felt circle with pasta. Then the blade should be wrapped with masking tape several times. this is both cut protection and preparation for working with the handle.
  • The handle will be made of symmetrical wooden overlays. We drill holes in the shank. We mark the bar and divide it into exactly two parts. In accordance with the holes on the blade, we drill them on the linings. Then you need to cut along the handle, in accordance with the shank. Having marked out and tried on everything, we take the shape of the handle, here focus only on your taste. Read more in the article: “How to make a handle for a knife”.
  • When the parts are ready, you can connect them with rivets. The knife is almost ready, it remains to process the handle in hot wax. If you do not have one, you can use natural oils, latex-based formulations, silicone or special impregnations for wood.

Homemade knife from a power saw.

At the final stage, as an option, the handle is walked on a felt circle, thereby removing excess oils. And wipe with a damp cloth. The blade is ready for use.

Required tools and materials

Since there is no need to forge and harden the future blade, the entire tool can be found in the garage, which is at least slightly equipped. We will need:

  • markers: black and silver;
  • ruler, piece of paper and vernier caliper;
  • angle grinder (grinder);
  • files with different grain;
  • as well as sandpaper and masking tape;
  • epoxy adhesive;
  • grinding and drilling machines;
  • a container with water for cooling;
  • hammer, core and vise.

Mechsaw knife.

A drilling machine is, of course, cool, but an electric drill is enough. And so with any tool from the list. You will definitely need materials for making the handle, but more on that later.

DIY saw blade knife

There are many articles on the Internet on the topic of making a knife from a power saw. But on one well-known resource, I found a whole article, negative statements about people who make such blades. And that the products are not good for anything. Everyone has their own opinion, but the whole “salt” is not in this, but is it really so bad a knife from a mechanical saw, as described by the author of the article? Let’s try to figure it out.

Power saw knife.

  • Features of the saw blade
  • Required tools and materials
  • How to make a knife from a mechsaw with your own hands
  • Making a knife
  • Manufacturing recommendations

Features of the saw blade

A power saw can be used to make a blade, in almost any condition. Even if it has deteriorated and rusted, it will still be suitable for homemade products. The product has enough advantages:

  • the knife will be made for oneself, so that it will be unique and will lie well in the hand;
  • a wide selection of material both in length and in width of the butt;
  • does not need hardening;
  • it is possible to make several knives from one canvas;
  • such a blade will be in the price range from 100 and above, better than the “china” for 30-40.

This is indeed the case. Having spent not very much time, it depends on experience, you literally get a product with good cutting properties for a penny. Do not overheat it during manufacturing, and you will get a great knife.

Manufacturing recommendations

The attentive reader may pay attention to the list of tools, half of which have not been used. Let’s explain, it is better to have a stock of everything you need, so any little thing can reduce the work a little in the other direction. So do not disdain these things and let them always be at your fingertips.

It is impossible to leave the blade simply brought together in any case. To do this, we make carts on a diamond bar, with the smallest grain. And we bring out the cutting edge. The process is best done with soapy water.