Manual table circular saw with your own hands
A detailed description of making a table for a circular saw with their own hands, which will come in handy in any workshop
The circular saw is a handy and productive tool that is present in every real man’s workshop. If you work with lumber in large volumes, you will need to make a table for the circular saw.
Of course, you can make an individual order in a furniture company. But it is possible to construct such a table by yourself, having the necessary drawings, materials and tools.
The design of the table consists of only two elements:
If desired, masters can complement the product:
Important: the circular saw is attached under the table, only its disk is located on the tabletop. The hole for the saw should be slightly larger than the blade. This prevents sawdust from clogging up the mechanism.
Such a piece of furniture should be sufficiently strong and reliable. Keep in mind that the higher the power of the saw, the higher the load on the surface of the table will be.
To the advantages of the homemade table for the circular saw can also be added:
- Comfort and convenience in work;
- Saving money;
- higher productivity;
- Ability to make the product, based on personal needs and features of the workshop.
Pros and cons of the home-made table for the circular saw
The table for the circular saw can be made by yourself, taking into account personal requirements and preferences. It will be the most comfortable to use. The table can be made in different sizes, heights.
There are models not only of the manual type, but also with the possibility of fixation on the table.
Several main advantages can be identified:
The disadvantages of homemade table for circular saws include time costs. The master will need to study the schemes, drawings, prepare materials, qualitatively perform processing.
What is necessary for creating a
To get to work, you need to prepare carefully.
Materials and tools
For a homemade table you will need a solid metal or wooden base. Some craftsmen prefer to make tables out of aluminum, steel.
It is difficult to work with large volumes of wood with an ordinary circular saw, so it is better to set it on a table.
Important! The wood must be treated with a special agent that has an antiseptic composition to prevent rotting processes.
Materials that will be required in the process of work:
- base, the thickness of which is not less than 22 cm;
- timbers for reinforcing and making the support (you can use 5 pieces of trim board);
- wooden dowels, 10 cm in size (12 pieces or more will be needed for the work);
- joinery glue;
- metal fasteners (not less than 4 pieces, and the exact number depends on the dimensions and length of the table);
- Metal corners in an amount of 10 pieces;
- self-tapping screws.
Before the work, you need to prepare the tools. For the marks take a pencil or marker, a meter, a tape measure, an electric jigsaw, a hand model router. To process the wood, you will need a grinder, sandpaper of different grit levels, which removes nicks.
A modern jigsaw is equipped with a built-in safety device, electronic speed control, vibration and noise level dampers.
You also need a planer, a drill and an electric screwdriver. Materials and tools are prepared in advance, placed in the workplace.
The matter will go much easier if you use an electric screwdriver.
Determining the design and construction
To choose the design, you need to decide on the base material. For wooden tabletops are suitable leafy species of trees, which are resistant to the processes of rotting with the correct antiseptic treatment. In the base make a special hole for the disk.
It is possible to construct the table for a circular saw table by oneself, following a certain scheme.
For the wooden base use a sturdy base of four trestles, planks of 50×150 mm. It must be stable to ensure safety. Curved or bent sheets of metal are not suitable for the work, because there is a high probability of injury.
Constructing the element with your own hands allows you to make the saw as suitable as possible for individual conditions.
It is possible to make a simple design or equip it with a swiveling blade of a removable design. Additionally perform a disk protection, so that the work shavings do not fly on the person who will work at the table. To make the cut at an angle, you need to add details to adjust the angle of the blade.
You can adjust the product to the right size, distribute everything so that it is convenient for you.
For circulation make a guide carriage of the table. It includes the following elements:
After choosing the design of the design, you need to make drawings of the table for a circular saw with their own hands.
The self-made model will be one-of-a-kind, which makes it unique.
Drawings and diagrams
Note! You need a blueprint to prevent errors in the process.
First of all make a calculation of the dimensions to transfer them to the cardboard. It makes a hole that should fit the dimensions of the saw. Before creating the drawing and scheme you need to buy a cutting tool. Universal openings are not provided in this design, because they cannot ensure maximum stability, safety and endurance of heavy loads.
Making a table for the circular saw is quite feasible for every craftsman.
You can leave a little extra space for tools or wooden workpieces. Suitable sizes: 120×120 cm.
An example of a drawing of a table for a circular saw:
Difficulties in the process will not arise if you carefully study the issue.
Scheme with a detailed description and dimensions:
The table is made with the assumption that the hand tool will be installed and fixed on the table, turning it into stationary equipment.
Choice of material
To make a circular table with your own hands, you need to recall carpentry skills, have a lot of patience and a small number of materials and appliances.
The volume of the table top will depend on the workshop area. At the same time, on a small table it will be uncomfortable to saw large sections. If the workpiece fits completely on the work plane, the cut is made more even and neater. Select the height of the legs, depending on the height of the craftsman.
Process of table production
- It is necessary to cut a tabletop of the required size from a sheet of plywood. The marking is applied to the lower area using a metal ruler and pencil. The plywood is cut out with the jigsaw, and the edges are milled if necessary. If the plywood is not laminated, we sand the table surface with a sandpaper.
- Turn over and from the bottom make a marking for fastening the circular saw of manual type. To do this, remove the disk from the device and place it with the sole in the desired location. Marks on the table top and in the base for the fixture and the hole for the saw blade. Drill holes for bolts. They will be twisted at the top under the table top and held by nuts at the bottom. That’s why the holes are countersinked at the edge of the work surface, and the bolt caps are smoothed so that they don’t stick out.
- If you plan to cut the material at different angles, the cut under the circular saw blade is made in the form of an overturned trapezoid. For straight sawing an ordinary groove is made. Before marking the slots and holes for fasteners you need to put a saw to the table, correct the marks and only then cut.
- Draw the areas of the ribs with a pencil. They are made of boards and placed 8-9 cm from the edge of the table top itself. The legs of the table need to be fixed to the ribs. The ribs are fastened with self-tapping screws at intervals of 15-25 cm, glued with PVA in addition. Self-tapping screws are screwed in from above, under the table top, the heads of the screws sink all the way in. Screw the ribs together with self-tapping screws.
- The legs are made from a bar or board, their length will be from 100 to 113 cm. Significant stability will be given by the legs, diverging downwards. They are fixed on large bolts, twisted on the outside, and reinforced on the inside with nuts. Bar ties will strengthen the frame.
- To adjust the height of the table, nuts are fastened at the bottom, into which M14 bolts are screwed. Now we can secure the saw from below by sliding the storage device into the prepared slit.
- Let’s attach the electric socket to the table, connect the cable to the socket and install the switch. Power to the socket will be transmitted from the switch. From there we pull the cable to the nearest source in the workshop. To fix the ON/OFF button on the circular saw body in the recessed position, use a constructionbond to fix it.
- Let’s start to make the auxiliary stops. For the stop you will need a square cut aluminum tube 0 and 2 screws with wing nuts. Let’s saw a piece of pipe along the length of the table top and make holes 3 cm from the edge for screws. From the pieces of plywood 2 clamps are sawed. The system is ready.
- To work across the table carry out skids of plywood. Level them against the table edge, press them down and push them along the toothed wheel. In the area of the circle passage we saw a hole. Small parts can be placed directly inside the skids and sawn. Dust will be out from under the table, but much of it will still fly upwards, so it is good to supplement the device with an upper dust outlet.
Working on the circular saw is very dangerous, so make sure you protect your fingers. With a piece of board or furniture board cut pusher.
Additions to the made construction
Some masters, assembling the table for the manual circular saw according to the unique drawings, completely remove the factory safety guard, and replace the factory platform with a homemade one. If you do not plan to saw at an angle, you can remove all the devices to adjust the inclination of the blade. Electric saw is fixed directly on a new base that gives an opportunity to win a couple of millimeters of depth of cut.
Without the inner casing, it is easier to remove the disk, electric saw will not be so clogged with shavings when working with wet boards. Dismantling will require extra time, but it saves the life of the motor and prevents overloading.
Circular saw mounting
It’s just a matter of a few things. Electric circular saw is placed inside the prepared hole. The blade is bolted to the base and the toothed drive must fit freely into the socket.
The table for the circular saw is practically finished. Now it should be treated with a material that protects against moisture, then coated with varnish in several layers (to minimize slipping).
The resulting system can be supplemented with anything at the user’s discretion (safety cover, disc tilt adjustment device, carriage, and others).
Preparation of the sketch, material and tools
As an example, let’s consider the order of making a wooden workbench with a height of approximately 100. 120 cm. Before making such a table with your own hands, it is desirable to prepare a small sketch that will display the device of the future construction with the dimensions of its main elements.
Exact height adjustment of the table is made taking into account the height of the master working on the machine (comfortable position of the working plane at hip level of the person).
At the preparatory stage you should also decide on the material for the future construction, which, as a rule, is made of planks and laminated plywood 28 mm thick. To make such a table with your own hands you will need the following blanks:
- a metal sheet of suitable size;
- Standard sheet of thick plywood;
- Metal square tube, from which the guides are made;
- a set of two screw clamps.
To assemble the table you also need a tool kit of the following items:
- screwdriver and electric drill;
- an electric jigsaw or a regular wood hacksaw;
- Angle, tape measure, ruler (for current measurements);
- hand router
start button and electrics
The regular power button must be bypassed, or if this is not possible, clamped with a clothespin or harness. Instead of a button on the handle, a small power strip, laid inside the box, will be used.
On the outside front side of the box, install a twin start/stop button with locking. Its normally open contact is connected in the gap of the power cable. The ends of the wire are connected to a plug socket screwed on the inside.
After the saw is connected and tested in operation, a triple folded kapron stocking should be stretched over the air intake grille.
You can make a self-made table out of wood
For such a table can be used wood, plywood or Laminated chipboard. Fibreboard and particle board are also suitable. Some people prefer to choose steel or aluminum.
Circular machine table made of steel plate
It is not recommended to use plastic, since it is completely unsuitable for a table of this purpose. If wood is chosen, then after completing the assembly the product should be treated with a special antiseptic composition. This will provide reliable protection against moisture and help avoid rotting.
To make a saw table by yourself you need to prepare the materials.
- Selected raw materials for the base. The thickness should be 21 mm.
- The timber required for the frame. Suitable edged board length of 3 meters with dimensions of 50×150 mm. You need 5 pieces in total.
- Scantlings of wood with dimensions of 10 cm. At least 12 pieces.
- Joinery glue.
- Metal fasteners in an amount of 4 pieces.
- Metal corners. It is enough to have 10 pcs.
- Self-tapping screws.
The above items should be prepared in advance and placed near the workplace.
In addition to materials it is necessary to prepare the tools.
- pencil and marker;
- Measurement tools, including a meter and a tape measure;
- hand router;
- sanding machine;
- sandpaper (should have a medium or fine grit);
- planer and drill;
- electric screwdriver.
Everything must be prepared in advance and kept at hand during the entire process.
Elements of the construction of the sawing machine for wood created by our own hands
To make a stationary machine at home for sawing materials, you must first know what structural elements it consists of. Whether it is a machine made by your own hands from a manual circular saw, angle grinder or a tool assembled from disparate elements. the set of basic parts is the same.
The surface of the table should be made flat, for better quality of the product at the output.
The main elements of stationary circular saws are:
- Table for connecting and fixing mechanisms. If the circular saw is powerful and massive, it is better to use a metal table. Variants of chipboard, wood, plywood will be suitable, most importantly, that the surface is smooth.
- Shaft. The most critical detail. When it is made separately, a lathe is used. Dimensions should be calculated accurately, this will avoid runouts.
- Cover. This element ensures the safe use of the circular saw.
- motor. When using an angle grinder or circular saw, it is part of the power tool.
For your information! If the design is supposed to be prefabricated, then in creating a circular saw with their own hands, the engine from a washing machine will be the most successful option.
In the design of the circular saw there must be movable parts of the drives, and in the power supply circuit must be mounted a button to stop the motor in emergency situations.
Circular saws of any stationary type consist of basic parts.
Circular machine, as close as possible to the factory models, requires a competent approach to assembly, so before making a circular saw of the stationary type, it is necessary to think through all the details. In principle, the table mini circular saw from a stationary differs in the height of the frame, which depends directly on the nature of the work performed and the size of the workpieces that will process the device. One-time work can be carried out on a compact table saw, with a circular saw from a manual circular saw can be easily hidden in a shed or closet, and the carpenter, who constantly conducts manipulations with lumber, will need a stationary homemade circular saw. Below is a diagram detailing all the elements and accessories for a circular saw of this type.
As can be seen from the figure, homemade circular mowers of this type have a clear design, and the drawings, such as the one presented above, greatly facilitate the process of their assembly. Before making a circular saw, as well as assembling a circular table with your own hands, let’s consider each detail of the unit separately in order to know all the details of its operation and installation.
Table for the circular saw
The table for a manual circular saw with a slot in the center is sometimes remade from an ordinary kitchen table or assembled from planks or metal profiles. Table for circular saws experts strongly recommend the coating of a sheet of galvanized metal, as without coating the basis is threatened by abrasion in the center of the constant friction of the lumber, which in turn will adversely affect the quality of the kerf, and the depth of cut will be uneven. Cross ties that strengthen the sawing table, it is better to make from steel angle 60. 80 mm with a horizontal segment outward, in order to simplify the installation of the side limiter. Self-made table, on which the circular saw will be set, must be strong and stable, and it should be firmly fixed in a stationary position.
Circular saw blade
toothed blade must be at maximum one third of its diameter above the circular saw table surface, otherwise it will not cut wood properly and the process would be dangerous. If you need to cut a bar with, for example, 100 mm in diameter, the similar parameter of the cutter should not exceed 350 mm, but the engine needs to have power from 1 kW. For workpieces over 150 mm in diameter a handmade mini circular saw is unlikely to be suitable. Some factory-made circular saws have an riving knife set behind the disk at a distance of 2 to 3 mm from the saw teeth. It eliminates the jamming moment due to the clamping of parts of the sawn workpiece, so it can be very useful in case of assembling a home-made circular saw.
Adjustable side stop
Put a quality stop is possible from a steel angle of about 80 mm, which is 3. 4 cm longer than the construction of the table. The flat sides of the bend down so that their width was a half cm thicker than the thickness of the table. After assembling the stop is fixed to the homemade circular saw table in a specified position with the help of screws. Adjustment of this element is carried out according to the template placed between it and the cutter.
Shaft installed on the circular is the most responsible unit, so it must be milled and tested in assembly with a disk exclusively by a specialist with special equipment. The product of a pipe with a carelessly fixed the circle is excluded at once, because the slightest error in the work of this element will turn into major troubles such as equipment failure, damage to the workpiece and personal injury to the operator. The optimal solution is to buy a ready-made shaft with a seating for the cutter. It is better to give preference to self-aligning ball bearings, which have a curved shape of the inner surface, otherwise the home-made unit will quickly collapse and the shaft, installed on the homemade circular saw, will fall into disrepair.
In our case, the ideal option would be a V-belt drive, but it is better to abandon the gear rigid mechanism, because such a self-made machine does not guarantee safety. If you suddenly find a nail in the lumber, the rotor of the motor will provoke the destruction of the disk, which can lead to injury. If the internal diameter of the pulleys of the belt transmission is small, then slippage will be provided, and the tensioned belt will serve as a kind of damper. The gear ratio is usually chosen on the basis of the engine speed, making sure to take into account the allowable number of revolutions of the disc. The smaller the diameter of the saw blade, the higher the rotational speed can be and the cleaner the remodeled unit will cut.
Among homemade devices, the most popular is the circular saw, assembled from the motor from a washing machine.This choice is explained by the fact that its scheme is best suited for such purposes. In contrast to the collector units, which are usually supplied with power tools, the motor from the washing machine works at less high speed, which means that it shows a longer work, has a higher efficiency and is not so subject to all kinds of clogs. You can also use a three-phase motor, but then there will be additional costs for the purchase of a starting and working capacitor, so it is more economical to make do with a device from a washing machine. Here, in general, are all the intricacies.
The manufacturing process: step-by-step instructions
Circular saw table top in prefabricated form
To make a quality construction it is necessary to follow some tips. The process consists of several steps, presented in the table.
|1||The timber should be trimmed on all sides with a planer. Then the frame of the future table is assembled from it. In each side of the table top you need to drill several 5 mm holes. One more through hole is made for the legs of the product.|
|2||Several holes of similar diameter are made in the tiers. One through hole is made in each leg. The diameter remains the same, 5 mm.|
|3||Proceed to install the dowels in the countertop. Before doing this, they are covered with carpentry glue. Put the legs and uprights on top. If clamps with turnbuckles are available, use them to fix the product. When the glue dries completely, you need to fix the beams and legs, using special metal fasteners. Additionally you need to use self-tapping screws. Use corners to make the structure sturdy and strong. They will be an element of additional fastening, give stability to the product. For the short side 2 pieces are enough, and for the long side 3 pieces will do.|
|4||The next step involves securing the saw to the product from the inside. There are several methods to accomplish the task. For fixing, M4 bolts or bars with self-tapping screws will do. The first case is fast and reliable. The second method involves no additional holes, thus eliminating the need for drilling. It is necessary to make a cut in the joists, the width of which is equal to the dimensions of the saw’s platform. Next, self-tapping screws and bars on both sides fasten the equipment and the tabletop|
|5||After the saw has been installed a bigger bar is needed. It is fixed on the base of the construction with self-tapping screws. Screwing is carried out on the marks made when aligning the platform in a level position. The above manipulation will help, when removing the saw, to return it usually quickly without looking for markings|
|6||The saw disk is set in its place. The base is sawn through to obtain a longitudinal hole. Then the product should be turned over|
|7||Then start making the parallel stop. Two strips of plywood are sawn off. Their length should coincide with the width of the table. On average, these dimensions are equal to 10 cm. The corners should be rounded|
|8||The resulting strips are sanded. They must be fastened at an angle with self-tapping screws. A metal angle must be screwed inside|
|9||If you want to fix a stop on the base and the construction will be used often, you should fix the rail so that it is perpendicular to the circular saw blade. Attach roller on underside. This will allow it to move.|
The design is complete and ready to use. When performing the described manipulations, it is important to remember to observe safety precautions. Also applies to any manipulation of the circular saw.
Regularly check the position of the table and its strength. The construction should be stable, without loosening.
Example of a circular saw work table that has been fabricated
Manual circular saw table variant with lifting mechanism
First make sure that the saw is fixed in place and only then start the saw. Do not hold the material you are sawing with your hands. This will help to avoid getting wood in the face when the knots start to bounce. In addition, it is recommended to use special safety glasses when working.
For safety, be sure to use safety glasses
The above simple tips will help to avoid injuries at the workplace.
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Hand-held with a rasp bar
Deep and “long” sawing is not often necessary for the DIYer, but the hand-held circular saw is useful in its own right. Besides, a manual circular saw with a guide rail can cut wood both lengthways and crosswise, and at any angle. And a cutting length of up to 1.5 to 2 m is quite sufficient for almost all finishing work and creative work.
There are enough ratchets for manual circular saws on sale, and they cost inexpensively, but there is no universal. The construction principle of a branded guide rail is illustrated in Fig.the saw’s base plate (shoe) is made with a longitudinal groove, and the guide bar is stamped with the appropriate. The trimmer has a ridge (arrow in Fig.).
Using a hand-held circular saw with a guide rail
It is convenient in work: it is necessary only to press tool from above, and it will not go sideways and sideways. And in the course of competition it is also convenient: we make our saws so that they do not sit on the guides of “partners”.
Uncomfortable for craftsmen. you can’t find a cheaper guide bar. And a circular saw with guide groove is disproportionately expensive compared to the same one, but with smooth shoe. Amateurs do the opposite: Reisschine with a groove of laminated plywood, and a pair of bosses attached to the shoe (pos. 2b in the big fig. in the beginning). But for this, first of all, you need a router table, which you have to make (not easy) or buy (expensive). Secondly, the already small depth of cut is reduced by 16-20 mm. Thirdly, if the tool is still under warranty, drilling holes in the shoe will burn out the warranty. Fourth, if the saw is for rent, you can’t make any improvements to it.
There is another way, but the tool will need to work in 3 planes: hold, from leaving sideways and from rotation. The plywood base of the rail can then be thinner, 6-8 mm. The actual rail will be a flat rail (or a piece of steel angle, etc.) fixed to it.п.), see. track. Figure.:
How to make a guide for a manual circular saw
“Setting up” the fixture comes down to simply cutting off the excess from the base with a circular saw. this guide is screwed to the board / sheet of material, just like a proprietary guide. When working on the workbench under the base are put spacers slightly thicker than that of the material; the depth of cut from this sootv. reduced.
Table for manual circular saw
There are a lot of constructions of handmade circular sawing tables for manual circular saws, but most of them are the result of creative search and/or self-expression. However, quite workable. However, the optimal options for those who have not to make and show, but to work with it, are viewed quite clearly.
This is the tilting saw table for the manual circular saw (left in fig.). table top. laminated plywood 12 mm and higher; columns 400 mm and higher. furniture laminated chipboard 16-24 mm. Making cross-bars from boards is undesirable, you do not get the desired rigidity of the table. Worktop overhangs 30-60 mm.
Construction of saw table for handheld circular saw
The table top construction of the circular saw table is shown on the right in Fig. Slots for saw blade exit (one slot is possible) are cut 6-10 mm wide. No particular precision is required, t.к. stop (see pic. below) is set for sawing on the saw blade. The size of the table top can be changed arbitrarily (up to approx. 900×1200 mm made of 16 mm plywood). Clamping in working position (assembly C in fig.). with M8 screws with wing nuts. Rotating assembly (pos. B). a piece of pipe (can be plastic). its fastening to the table top. you can do it with countersunk head screws through the through holes.
Instead of hinges. L-shaped pieces of bar D8; a small backlash in the tube does not affect the quality of sawing. Each “loop” is additionally bent in the vertical plane at an angle of 30-45 degrees. The long “G” sticks are threaded and fastened in the cylinder by pairs of nuts with split washers. Fixing holes in the cylinder is better to mark on the spot, inserting the “hinges” in the tube and laying the table top on the base.
Making a solid sliding stop for the workpiece, as on the pose. 3b in the large fig. at the beginning, not necessarily. It (stop) is better to make from a piece of steel corner from 40×40, having cut a vertical flange as shown here in fig. (back view).
Design of a sliding stop made of steel angle for a homemade circular table
It’s fastened to the table top with clamps, and it’s necessary to align it parallel to the saw disk in any case; it’s done with metal-square with marks in millimeters.
Fastening of the manual circular saw in the sawing table in the clamps
The circular saw is fixed to the table top with the disc upwards. If the tool is out of warranty and the loss of depth of cut is insignificant, you drill 4 holes D8 in the saw shoe and fix it by through countersunk head screws. It is advisable to put 1-2 mm rubber between the shoe and the table top., from the autocam), the quality of the cut will improve noticeably due to the damping of vibrations of the tool. If it is necessary to minimize the cutting depth loss, a cut-out is made in the table top for the saw shoe, the saw is fixed to a 3-6 mm thick steel sheet and in the rectangular recess on the table top (see table top). fig. left). But the hole will have to choose a hand router on wood, chisel precisely flush will not work.
If the tool is under warranty or rental, depth of cut losses are unavoidable, i.e.к. The saw shoe must not be drilled through. For such cases there is a well known solution for clamping the saw (see chapter “Clamping of the saw”). trace. Figure.). Not suitable for regular work in large quantities, but it can be done quickly and a day or two evenly will be sawed.
The handheld circular saw’s mounting in the sawing table with minimal loss of depth of cut
Note: about the variants of self-made sawing tables on the basis of manual circular saws see video; stationary to the workshop: